By the same A u thor

THE FIRE OF G OD A M ONG

THE HEA THER

S E COND E n rr r o u

P O INI ONS. I h ave look ed th r —ough yo ur book with r eal admi r ation an d e njoyme n t T h e Ve r e v P n W . A G R D R r c a M C R E G O D . y . i ip l M . , . ,

% o u ar e do i n g goo d w or k in r e mi n di n g th e pe ople of th e r ea lity of th e e f h e n s a ar e n ot se n . L e is o t n e x e c e O n e thi g th t if full u p t d . did e oo for th e r e a n or r o on e q uit l k light b ki g f th f m T gu .

Th e V r R v R M A L N D e e NO N M C . D . y . A EA ,

W h at a gift thi s w ould be for H ighlan d fo lks to se n d to th e i r fr i e n d s in C an a a s r a a and Ne w Zea an d , Au t li . l d D r H UT T O N in h e r e l . T B it is h W e k y

W or thy of a pl ace al on gsi d e su c h w e ll -k n ow n wor k s as T h e Days of th e ’ - F a e r s in R oss s r e T h e os e of t h e Nor e tc . th hi , Ap tl th ,

I n ver n es s Cou r ie r .

T e ll s th e th r illi n g st or y of spi r itual aw ak e n i n gs h ow H is pow e r fe ll in mighty s h owe r s a n d of th e mor al an d spi r itu al e n r i c hm e n t th at % — o o e . h L i o h f ll w d T e fe f F a it . For e w or d .

HIS little book has been prepared at the request of some

young people wh o wish to preserve the traditions and

t o promote the welfare of their parish . Their generous public spirit has helped to put it within the reach of all .

Several recent events have suggested its publication and i seem t o make its appearance t mely . The passing of the parish as the unit of civil administration h as provided the

of parochial historian with his opportunity . The union the churches holds the promise of unifying the religious and social

of life of the community . The change in the proprietorship the parish has prompted reflection and awakened hope .

who Natives , are dispersed throughout the world , and whose

t o old hearts are bound the home by tender spiritual ties , rej oice to rehearse the tales of their grandfathers and t o hear of an d the doings of the dreams of youth . FOREW ORD

For such as take t o scorning The friends of their youth

And the places they were born in ,

I have something , l of That , ike the light morning ,

lie Though dense they ,

He that forgets

Who , in the shelter of the gable ,

Let him be hung

K I NL OC H B E R VI E H O U S E

KI L HBE R E N OC VI .

What a beautiful name for a parish % There is music in it

of for almost any ear . How sweetly it must fall on the ears Z exiles in distant lands , such as New ealand , in the far south of and British Columbia , in the far west The natives

Kinlochbervie , wherever they wander , carry with them the music of the name as part of themselves . Kinlochbervie How did the parish come t o be so called %

‘ What is the source and meaning of the name % Can we trace its derivation We may . At one time this part of the country % Ceathr amh was called An Garbh , that is , The Rough

%uarter . Sir Alexander Gordon , writing in the seventeenth century , said It is all rough with wood , mountains , and t r actless paths , and incapable of being tilled or bearing crops , % except in a very few places . As it was unsuitable for was t o cultivation it given up the rearing of goats , cattle , and ear r on s E ddr achillis o horses . The g of were fam us in those t o days , and are held by some have been the sires of the modern Shetland ponies . Then , as now , people took pride in

was their stock . In this district there a famous herd of golden of cattle , the steading which was where the church and manse w — n Lea h d B n n o a t a a . stand The lake is called to this day ,

- - -ba-bhu idhe Loch innis nam , meaning , the lake by which the 10 K I NLOCHB ERVI E

l yellow herd graze . The little vil age that grew up at the of sea was l - - the lake , between it and the , ca led Ceann loch r

- -bhu idh e . u n r buar English speakers , who did not de st t oo the meaning of the word , were in great a hurry t o w:

so - - breath on long a compound , and called it Kin loch ber We seldom find a Gaelic place - name improved by b¢ anglicised , but in this case we have both the name an d meaning euphoniously preserved .

I t s B ou n d arie s

The ecclesiastical parish is composed of two parts ou t d h i from the parishes of E d r ac ill s and Durness . In 1 824

a uoad sacr a of w s formed into the q parish Kinlochbervie . Geis each Its boundary runs by g Bay , by the river and l

B ein n % of that name , to the top of Dearg Bheag , thro % Caoidh to of Bealach Coire na , the top Craig Riabhach

ll Far mheall to Allt ' Mea na Moine , by the foot of na Gua thence in almost a straight line t o the top of Cnoc a Mhada

Foin n e-B hein n - -Feidhe t o M and , across Beallach na

Meall Chu ir n Allt -a-Chu ir n Horn ( a ) , along the bank of

r d achullin n E ar r achd Ste A , and to where An j oins Loch Loch Stack and Laxfor d river form the southern bound r d to Loch Laxfo . The area of the parish is roughly about 2 70 square mi and is probably the most picturesque in the world . I dotted throughout with fresh water lakes t o the numbei br c over 1 5 0 . These with scarcely an exception abound in Laxfor d saln trout . The principal harbours are Loch (

I n char d C1; fiord) , Loch (the high peninsula) , and Loch

(the hollow) . I TS B OU NDARI E S 1 1

There are man y little spots in which the eye of the artist finds exquisite beauty . But there are also scenes that cannot

t o . V fail to appeal anyone Take , for example , the iew from

l - -Fion hal - Beal ach Tigh g , looking east and south east . A

o glorious range of maj estic m untains , not surpassed by any

in Scotland , meets the eye . They overawe and uplift the soul . One can stand there and worship before agelong proofs of a

Foinn e B h in n . e Presence that is Divine is ft . high , Me all a Chu ir n A r k ill Stack Then the

of u Glasbhein n Cu inn ea Canis mountains Assy t , , g , p , and ’ Su ilbhein n , stand in the distance all clad in heaven s blue ,

sk reflecting every change on the y, yet remaining unchanged

throughout the ages .

Foin nbhein n Meall Ar k ill , Horn , and , are famous for that

l . sport of kings , deer sta king Sir Robert Gordon , writing in

Dir im or e the seventeenth century , said , In the there is a hill

A r k ill all or called the deir that are bred therein , hant

thr ie within that hill , have forked tails , inches long , whereby

% all they are easily known and discerned from other deir .

Mr . A . Stewart , writing in the New Statistical Account , in 1 8 0 of 4 , says , The description thus given the deer having

forked tails is still applicable . This legend has gone abroad as t o of a phenomenon peculiar this part the country . Modern deer stal kers are of opinion that the fork- tail stag is really o has an old stag that is in bad conditi n , and not got clear of old the old hair , with the result that the hair still on the tail ,

on omt . parts a wet day , making a fork at the p When shot , it is seen that there is no fork in the flesh of the

‘ M r co e e r r S o r e s . S e e A dach u illin n M r r o r . n c a w it bi , k p , . M u , A hf y , ’ wh o h as or ear s e x e r e n ce e n an d M r R o e r M a A l . c u a f ty y p i b hi d him , b t y, w h o w as or n an d r a n e in th e or e s a r e e s o n n b t i d f t , g with thi pi i o . 1 2 K I NLOCHB ERVI E

P r e -Hi s t or ic Foot p rin ts There are good grounds for believing that the district known as Oldshore was at one time well populated and w l n o as . cultivated . There can be doubt the land we l wooded

The fir roots , preserved in the moss through centuries , afford wh o or ample evidence of this . And no one has dug burned these has the feeling that they are very ancient . The place names of the district supply us with further evidence . The place now known as Strath Choilleach is simply Strath -na t o Coille , the wooded valley . Then there is a little lake the — - - of south of Sandwood , Loch Claise na Coille the loch the

n ow valley of the wood . Though there is no wood there , it is

-a - evident there was at one time . Loch Mhuilinn (the Mill loch) tells of time of which we have now neither record nor t o even tradition , when the people of the district went there

-an -t - grind their corn . Not far away is Loch saic (the Bag s loch) rather suggestive in that connection . There is al o

- - Loch na Larach (the Sites loch) a late name . These give ample proof of human habitation , cultivation and industry .

t o Better still , the river Shinary is telling its own tale every thoughtful listener . as Let us listen to its tale . Oldshore was at one time , has been stated , well populated and well cultivated . The wealth and the living of the people was in their stock of cattle . The land about their holdings was cleared of stock early in the season . The cows were taken to the shielings , where butter and cheese were made , and where calves were reared , during the summer months . When harvest time came they returned home to gather in their crops , when the cattle found abundant

h ‘ h om e sean n air idh food on t e pastures . Shinary ( or old sheiling) afforded good pasture for the whole district . It PR E -HI STORI C FOOTPRINTS 1 3

to- provided better feeding than it does day , for it was eaten m bare every su —mer , and therefore grew again without wastage . The pasture to day is less valuable because it is not used and cleaned year by year as it was then . We may still picture the women milking on the moor , and hear them singing their milking songs as the j ets of milk fell into the cogies , and the froth rose t o the top . Though the district of Oldshore has been inhabited and cultivated for a longer period than any other part , yet as r late as the seventeenth centu y , Gordon of Straloch relates 1 60 1 that the whole district abounded with wolves . In VI t o Kin g James . made a grant Earl John of Sutherland of of A stler m oir A stler be San dewat t the lands and towns , g , ,

with the mills and fishings ofthe same . The mills and fishings

even then seem t o have been assets of some value .

Oldshore as a place -name puzzled such competent scholars Ma K c a . as Dr . Adam Gunn and John y of Hereford The former fas- thought it was from thire , the fertile land , as opposed to the i of Ce athr amh ster le land An Garbh , the latter follows the

i . same l ne . Both were guessing In ancient manuscripts

the name was written in a great many different ways , shewing the difficulty non - Gaelic writers had in giving orthographic

A ler t o . st expression purely Gaelic sounds They made it , l Al t er Alstlair . s h . , , and so on In the wi l of the Hon Charles

MacK a of o 1 st - y, son D nald , Lord Reay , he gave in life rent son to his wife and in fee to his Donald , his wadset of the

Alscher rn or lands of Sandwood and e . There you have a l person to whom Gaelic was native spel ing the word . He at

o once revealed the meaning and rigin of the name . There are two - burns in this north western part of the parish , which , 1 4 KI NLO‘CH B ERVI E

tin ctive t o- name day , but allt with is siar , the west L HI T R% CIVI S O .

The history of the parish is enveloped in darkness down t o r of the 1 8th centu y . The knowledge we have the past is fragmentary and cannot be woven into a continuous story .

of After his defeat at the battle Largs , Haco , the King of t o Norway , is known have landed at Oldshore in course of his e retreat homewards . Evidently he did not get much t o h lp for him , , after rounding Cape Wrath , he put in at Loch who Eriboll . There he sent a foraging party ashore , were

. for severelybeaten by the natives This they well deserved , on his way south the proud viking pillaged and burned twenty villages in that region . King Alexander III . settled any rights

Haco had in this quarter by a money payment . l MacK a of In the reign of %ueen Mary , Dona d y Far ’ o forfeited her Maj esty s favour , owing to some p litical offence , and was deprived of his lands . 1 1 she t o of In 55 sent a letter the bishop Caithness , pre to - of as senting him Robert , Bishop elect Orkney , his tenant of Oldshor ebe in the lands Oldshoremore , g , Sandwood , Ceathr amh Ceathr amh Meadhon ach of Garbh , , The Island Hoa l , the water of Abhainn Garbh , with the sa mon fishings , of a the water Sandwood , with the salmon fishings , h lf the water of Laxfor d with the salmon fishings ; and with the tiends of these towns .

1 of of In 559 the same Bishop Caithness , for certain sums t o money and other favours , granted John , Earl of Suther 1 5 1 6 KINLOCHB E RVI E

land and his wife , Helen Stewart , Countess of Errol , and their

tien ds heirs , the same lands , , and fishing rights . 1 6 Again in 5 4 the Earl of Sutherland forfeited the estate , n and %ueen Mary , consideri g that Alexander Gordon , the

’ ’ son n ot Earls , was an infant , and had partaken in his father s to 6th crime , granted the estate him , by a letter , dated March ,

1 6 - t o of 5 4 , reserving the life rent his mother , the Countess

Errol and Sutherland . The Earl ’ s crime to which the letter referred was a political

. in 1 one Mary came home t o Scotland a young widow 562 . son The Earl of Huntly and his friends thought that his , for Sir John Gordon , would be a suitable and worthy match

her . Mary , however , scorned such a proposal . The Gordons ou t on were highly offended . Mary set from Edinburgh a tour of the northern counties t o make acquaintance with those

parts of her kingdom . At Aberdeen , Huntly warmly invited t o she her visit his castle at Strathbogie in passing . This t o t o declined do . When she reached Inverness , expecting lodge in the castle , she found it locked in her face by the

of . Governor , in the name Lord Gordon Mary summoned the Highland Clans , the Macintoshes , the Grants and the

Frasers , to her standard . They j oined the royal escort , took e the castle , and hanged the Governor . On her return j ourn y MacK a s to Aberdeen , the clansmen , including the y , escorted who her all the way , as they feared an attack from Huntly , was declared an outlaw . The loyal clansmen were ordered Cor r ichie to punish him , and Huntly gave them battle at , ’ twenty miles west of Aberdeen . Huntly s force amounted t o of t o but a third that of his enemies , but he had been led of believe that he had friends in their ranks , and the result the first onset gave countenance to his belief . The vanguard

1 8 KINLOCHB ERVI E rulers of the past tried t o govern the cou n tr y by the aid of the clan chiefs . In the sixteenth century the parish of E ddr achillis was two inhabited by clans , the Macleods of Assyut in the Scourie end , and Morrisons , from Syke , in the Kinlochbervie end . Behind the historic account of how it came into the hands of the MacK ays there is an intriguing romance that merits preservation . Hu istean MacThor m aid , the progenitor of the Morrisons ,

Sk man e . was a y , who traded between Stornoway and Thurso At Thurso he had some business deal ings with the Bishop of

Caithness with whose sister he fell in love and married . With her as her dowry he received the church lands of Durness and h . of is Oldshore , a large estate Here he settled a number who clansmen from Skye , occupied it for generations . The last Chieftain of the Morrisons married a daughter of Donald B an of Matheson Shinness , but he died without an heir . The ’ clansmen made the widow s life so unhappy that she fled to ’ her father s home , taking care to carry with her the charter by which the Morrisons held the land from the Bishop of

sh e Caithness . In her distress appealed to the Earl of Suther who oi — al of land , relieved her her destitution and so the charter . Thus he came into possession of the property . He did not find it a valuable asset , for the Morrisons , backed by acK a s t o the Macleods and the M y , refused acknowledge his title and to pay rents which he demanded . So obstinate did was they prove that the Earl glad to get rid of it . For sixty to an t o MacK a merks a year he agreed give the l d Hugh y,

Hu istean Tu a h Dubh na g (Black Hugh of the battle axe) , father of the first Lord Reay .

Huistean Dubh went on a hunting expe dition to CIVIL HI STOR% 19

of Foin n B heinn . There he had a hunting hut in the vicinity h Sh Tu a . Loch an Tigh eilg . Loch na g is in its neighbourhood It was the hospitable custom of the time that when the B aron

' of t o Far came hunt , the local people acknowledged his

presence , and presented such gifts as butter , cheese and bread . One day a handsome young lady presented herself with gifts of that kind for the chief and his party . Hugh fell in love with her and pled with her t o stay with him in his hunting camp . The lady proved as high -minded as she was handsome and

she was of repelled his advances , declaring that the wife — — another the Morrison chief and that she would not dis on honour her husband or herself by such consent . Hugh , who she t o learning was , professed be profoundly impressed , and sent some of his retinue t o fetch Morrison . Presently ’ they returned carrying the chief s head , which they laid at ’ his wife s feet , saying . We found him in his bed We left him in his bed n ot of n We did think rousi g him ,

We merely brought his head . So here we brought his head To show that he is dead n ot for The lady need mourn him , ’ For n ow o she s free t wed .

she Filled with fear lest a similar fate might befall herself ,

. son who remained in the camp A was born in due course , was — seen t o bear a prominent birthmark on his forehead the ’ of % mark Morrison s blood He was called Donald , and was Domhn u ll el known ever afterwards as B lach , or Spotted

Donald . The MacLeods of Assyu t and ofE ddr achillis were constantly n who MacK a harryi g the Morrisons , eventually called upon y 20 K INLOCHBE RVI E

o M t o come t their help . They agreed that if the acLeods E ddr achillis were beaten would be divided between them . MacMhu r chaidh Mhoir Donald mhic Iain , the notorious R ob R o of MacLe od freebooter , the y the Highlands , though a , M L d to . ac eo was called in aid the Morrisons If he slew , of E ddr achillis u t o the young chief , he wo ld get Scourie him Ma K a r self . c y kept in the backg ound . f The day o battle was fixed . When it came and the two opposing forces were facing each other , Black Hugh appeared h 1 MacLeods saw wit 0 0 men t o help the Morrisons . The that M . acK a a contest was hopeless , and capitulated y had all f E ddr a hillis the parties in the hollow o his hand . He gave c t o son B allach : his , Donald he induced Donald Mac Mhur chaidh mhic Iain Mhoir t o accept as his portion the ’ of of Davoch Hope , together with the hand Morrison s widow , h ’ Donald B allac s mother . of MacK a Hu istean The facts , course , were that Hugh y, Tu a h his Dubh na g , honourably married cousin , Helen , of MacLeod B allach daughter Hugh of Assyut , that Donald was son their and heir , that he inherited Scourie through his of of mother , and became the founder the famous family the

MacK ays of Scourie . That part of the Reay estate known as modern Strath -naver was sold by the first Lord Reay t o the Earl of Sutherland in was to t o 1 64 2 . He obliged sell it in order pay debts incurred of in the course the Thirty Years War , in which he and his followers took an honourable part . of The remaining part the estate was sold by Eric , the t o of who seventh Lord Reay , the Marquis Stafford , became ’ Ma iver the first Duke of Sutherland . The late Evander c s “ — Mr account of the transaction is as follows : . Loch told me CIVI L HI STOR% 21

that Lord Reay had offered his estate t o the Marquis of who r t o Stafford , at once , in decided te ms , refused purchase

f . t o o . it , much the disappointment Mr Loch The Marquis

o t o t o had generously ffered lend money Lord Reay , if that old would suit his views , and prevent the sale of an paternal ' o R ea s t o estate . L rd y reply was that he had resolved sell it wa for . : s family reasons These reasons were he a bachelor , had an illegitimate daughter whom he had educated as a lady ; n ot that he could leave her the estate , but could give her the 1 8 w money . It is odd that in 34 I had dined ith Lord Reay in sat of London , when this young female had at the head the

table as mistress of the house . She afterwards married Sir

Frederick Minto , and it is said it did not prove a happy marriage . I afterwards heard that on her marriage she got of e t o from her father , with the promise succ eding t o what he would possess at his death that Lord Reay had lent his money on West Indian property and lost it , and that

he actually died a bankrupt . His property embraced three

. E ddr achillis Highland parishes , viz , Tongue , Durness , and , with an area of about acres , a wild , hilly , rocky district , with rivers and valleys , and some good hill pasture .

The family residence was at Tongue , to which a parliamentary road had been constructed from Lairg , and there was a coach u road from Tong e to Thurso . Durness and E ddr achillis were absolutely roadless and otherwise unimproved , and in a state of nature . The result of the negotiations was that the Suther land family purchased the estate for a su m of

% which was much more than its value at the time .

o There is another versi n of the transaction , but let it be .

The price paid for the estate , including fishing rights , house

. 1 5 . property , etc , was 5 per acre . 22 KINLOCHBERVI E

eu d al on F C dition s . so The feudal system , which long prevailed in the Highlands ,

- is not well understood t o day . The case of Kinlochbervie will so help us to understand it far as land tenure is concerned . 1 6 8 In the year 7 the tacksmen of Kinlochbervie were , Uilleam R u adh Mac ghain n Mhic An aogh ais who paid 2 0 marks ; Donald 0 g 2 0 marks ; John MacThomais Mhic Dhomhn u ill Riabhaich 1 2 MacNeill 0 , marks ; and John g ,

1 2 . MacK a 2 0 r marks In Oldshoremore , Hugh y paid ma ks Dhomh n u ill 2 0 Hugh Mac Mhic Allin , marks ; and Effie

f Fou lis 0 o 2 . Munro , a near relative Sir Hector Munro of , marks 1 8 A century later , in 7 9 , Donald Forbes of Ribigill , was tacksman for the whole district at an annual rental of 6 1 65 . £5 4 d .

The tacksmen were responsible to the superior for the rent , and were free t o impose on their su b - tenants any rent they pleased . The appointment of factors , who acted directly was as the servants and representatives of the superior , a step in the right direction . The hated factor of later times was much to be preferred t o the old r ack r en tin g tacksman for tenants had the privilege of personal access to the proprietor with their proposals or grievances . ’ i The people s wealth lay in their stock . That was str ctly limited in feudal days and in our own time . About a hundred l l l years ago , each tenant was a lowed three sma l High and % cows , eight sheep , and one horse . The rent of holdings ranged of from £2 to £5 . The price cattle averaged £3 a head sheep l s . . 2 1 s . ; goats 7 ; and horses £9 Daily unski led labour could not command I S . a day . Tradesmen , such as masons , d e 6 . 2 5 . carpenters , and tailors averaged per day ; dom stic servants £3 I OS . annually and farm hands £7 . A SETTLEMENT FOR TH E EVICTED 23

A S ettl e m e n t fo r t h e E victed . These were the economic conditions when the clearances f 1 8 1 1 8 2 0 . o took place . That was in 9 and The tenants Strath A chu mor e Str athbe naver , , Strathmore and g fled , they knew

set not whither , when their homesteads were on fire , under ’ who o sheriff s warrant of eviction . Those did not g abroad or into the large towns were permitted to squat on the a hr inhospitable shores of An Ce t amh Garbh . They came carrying their household possessions in

cr u ba s i g on horseback , and leading their wives , ch ldren and cattle over roadless hills and moors , poorly shod and clad o and fed . When they came they had not where t lay their heads . They wandered about in sheepskins and goatskins being destitute , afflicted , tormented they wandered in deserts and in mountains , and in dens and caves of the earth .

There was no one before them who could shelter them . Their children were born under the shelter of the rocks and in caves

sea by the shore . Their sick and their aged were subj ected to unspeakable hardships till death mercifully released them , and they were received into everlasting habitations .

Referring to their sufferings , Mr . Maciver wrote The feeling created by the introduction of sheep in the early years

- of the century , and by the clearances in Strath naver , which were carried out in a harsh and ruthless manner by some of the parties who acted for the Sutherland estate , and by removals of crofters to make way for sheep , had generated a strong rebellious tendency in the minds of the lower classes in

Sutherland against their superiors . The Duke ’ s factor and ground officers granted and allocated lotsof land to the refugees in such spots as the poor creatures blindly selected . 24 KINLOCHB E RVI E

K in saile B an Rhimhichie They settled in , Moll , , Achlyness ,

i t o Achr is ill A chr is along the coast from Rh conich g river , in Rhu vou lt I n she r a gill , , g , Badcall , Kinlochbervie , and Oldshore n ot in such spots as were already occupied .

r as Their fi st t k was to erect some shelter . Their houses

How were of the most primitive order . could they be other

% u was l at of wise A fo ndation cleared , usual y the head the f l o i . or allotment , and wal s stone and turf were ra sed Lime was n ot so t o even clay obtainable , and they used turf make - t o the walls air tight . Their chief difficulty was obtain wood f o or . for roofing , which consisted turf divots and heather bent They lived on shell fish and such other fish as they could t o wa . s catch They had not been accustomed the sea , but it

%sh . kind to them . It was then teeming with The trawler n ot t o had come upon the scene scatter and destroy the spawn . What they suffered during the first years of occupation it is t o now impossible relate , but the sufferings and privations of those years of oppression and want left their mark on the am t o most thoughtful ong them , and sent many premature graves . This large influx of people made it necessary for the church t o supply them with the ordinances of religion . Kinlochbervie was but a sample of many districts in the Highlands in which the population had been doubled , and even trebled , in the short

two . i time of or three years So great were the changes , ow ng t o t o to the evictions , that the Church appealed Government

. was provide churches and ministers The response great and ,

. as on the whole , generous Churches and manses , known

su m for Parliamentary Churches , were erected , and a voted of ministerial stipends . One these was erected at Kinloch — i - bervie the first church in the distr ct in 1 8 2 9 .

26 KINLOCHB E RVI E

The outbreak of the potato disease in 1 84 6 caused much distress throughout the Highlands , and particularly in this parish . Funds were raised by public subscription to relieve for distress , and a National Committee was formed the equitable and j udicious distribution and administration of the money throughout the affected area . That Committee r ecom

to - o who mended that work should be given able b died men , who il to - were in need , and were w ling work at road making . Public money would thus be used for the public service while at the same time it relieved the immediate distress . The Duke of Sutherland informed the Committee that he his own n o would look after poor , and that grants would be needed from the Fund . At the same time he placed a large f hi o s . amount of money in the hands factor , Mr Evander for Maciver , to provide work and food the people , saying ,

that none must die for want of food . The road from

t o t o Rhiconich Kinlochbervie was finished , and extended

Sheigra under this scheme .

At the same time , and rising out of the same distress , the road from Lairg t o Laxfor d was constructed . It cost e the Duke paying one half , and the National Committe the other . The benefits of that road have been incalculable .

At t o a . first , mail gigs went and came twice a week L irg Later l there was a mail every second day , and eventua ly a daily mail each way . Thus the potato disease , which was a sore calamity

- - at the time , has , by the wise fore thought , self sacrificing

co- ou r service , and operating goodwill of fathers , proved a real blessing to succeeding generations . The estate management took advantage of the distress to t o remove many families from the parish , in order form sheep farms . Mr . Maciver tells us that he strongly advised His Grace R ELI E F OF DI STRESS 27

t o t o assist the crofters emigrate This , he says , was an to o immense relief the remaining cr fters , as the land possessed % by the emigrants was divided amongst them . That would have been a humane policy , if congestion and distress were mitigated by emigration and enlargement of holdings for those

wh . o . remained The facts , however , as revealed by Mr

n ot t o Maciver himself , Show that the land cleared was given b the ut . remaining tenants , was formed into sheep farms In the case of Handa we have this illuminating statement t o It was deemed best convert it into a sheep grazing . My

t o o f farm being directly opposite it , I became tenant it , and % wh I occupied it for upwards of forty years . The people o f removed from Handa did not all emigrate . Some o them settled in the already congested district of Kinlochbervie . Kin saile and Moll B an were cleared and Rhimhichie formed into a sheep farm with acres Sk er cha was cleared and made a sheep run with acres ; the district between Rhiconich and Achr isgill river was cleared and given to the

- hotel keeper , acres ; Shegra was cleared and made a sheep run of acres Sandwood was cleared and made a

Sheep farm with acres . Not an acre of the land cleared went to the enlargement of the holdings of the remaining tenants , unless Sandwood may possibly be conceived as such a MacK a case . It was let to Hugh y merchant , Kinlochbervie , l who a ready occupied Kinlochbervie farm . 1 8 1 The population varied greatly in those years . In 5 there 1 86 1 were nearly people in the parish . In it was between

0 1 2 1 6 1 . 1 1 80 and 90 0 . The population in 9 was 7 By 93 it

l t o 8 or . had fa len 5 93 , that is by 7 per cent I n char d The first school at Badcall was built on the Shore , as people travelled along the shore before roads were con 28 KINLOCHB E RVI E

an t structed . Boats conveyed pupils from Achlyness

hie Rhimhic t o the school . For a time the teacher was Mr

t o was the Samuel Grant . When the road Kinlochbervie made new school was built at the roadside . The old school on the shore was converted into a storehouse 1 8 6 t o 1 8 su n During the years 4 4 9 , the Duke placed a large of money in the hands of Mr . Maciver to be used at his dis

: cr etion to relieve distress among the people . The inside wall v c of the school were lined with tin foil . The floors were co er e a in the same way . %u ntities of meal were conveyed in bull by Ship from Caithness and placed in the store for sale t o th r people at a reasonably cheap rate . The meal was lifted ir buckets out of the Ship ’ s hold and transferred ashore in smal

- boats . Factory made meal sacks were not then in use .

- i In the early sixties steam boats came with suppl es . Mea l ed and other goods were properly label ed and invoiced , address

l ex ce ' to each consignee . There were no loca merchants p

K a i Mac . Hugh y, Kinlochberv e It was then Colin Morrison

B alachr ick o li , began to deal in groceries , dry go ds and

- stock . He prospered . He was a big hearted , generous soul

of a who , though childless himself , could not bear to think dee l hungry child without supplying the parents , however p j

wheI they may have been indebted to him . It is said that Colin was dying he sat up in bed with his books on his knees an c his pen in hand , and cancelled all his outstanding arrears praying , Forgive us our debts as we forgive our debtors . an c Up till then the people grew their own barley and oats , at made their own meal . There was a mill on the river

’ l er ect ec Oldshore from time immemorial , and a small mil was on A chr isgill river after tenants had settled in the district own was r Each township had its kiln , where the grain prepare THEI R DAIL% BREAD 29

n wa for . s the mill The drying of the cor an art in which some ,

o . b th men and women , were experts The kiln was a social centre where young people met in the rm of wa th the oven , and spent the long nights in song and story . Every house had its riddle to winnow and separate the chaff from the grain , and its sieve to separate the husks from the meal . When the meal returned—ground from the mill , the sifting process was a heavy task a task which fell t oo t o of wh o often the lot of the women the household , toiled i hard for their da ly bread . They not only sifted the meal of they baked it , and the husks they made sowans , that of all most delightful cooling drinks in summer , or of heating drinks in winter .

T h e G r eat War .

It is n ot necessar y for us to receive a certificate from anyone t o of of cer tifi as the character the people the parish , but if a for n o cate were needed their public and social behaviour , n e wa t o o s e . b tter fitted give it than the late factor , Mr n ot t o for Maciver , for he was known have Shown much love the people . In his reminiscences he left his opinion of them in the following passage The crofters on the Sutherland estates had been treated with kindness ; while the rents of the large farms had been more than doubled , the additions made on the death of a crofter and his wife to the rent were was n ot ou t trivial , if not nominal , and removal carried except for al for gross misconduct or illeg ity , and thirty years after I

became factor , they were easy managed in the Scourie agency . They had confidence in my sense offairness and j ustice as their

factor , and the rents were paid , as a rule with regularity ; W in short , it was satisfactory as compared ith most Highland % estates with crofter tenants . 30 KINLOCHBERVI E

Indeed , throughout the history of the past century , serious n n crime was unk ow . It is questionable if there is a parish in o has Scotland with s clean a record . A high moral sense t o of pervaded the community . That was not due any fear the law , but wholly to the fear of God , and an enlightened public conscience . The people of the par ish have always been noted for their patriotism . Whenever the country needed men it found them ’ - e i standing at attention . Sixty six men ob yed the r country s call and served in the Great War . Of these nine offered the supreme sacrifice , which love has commemorated in the beautiful Memorial on Rhian point . (See Appe ndix I . )

‘ M B eath One of them , Robert , won the most coveted distinction Open to any soldier in the ranks , namely , THE V h as ICTORIA CROSS , for a feat of bravery such as not often — His been surpassed in the far flung fields of British warfare .

- cool , self forgetting , and successful action indicated the spirit on e of his Kinlochbervie comrades . The deeds of the express the spirit of all . The official terms of the award spe ak with restrained eloquence of his most conspicuous bravery as follows The King has been pleased to approve of the awar d of THE VICTORIA CROSS to the u n dem am ed for most conspicuous bravery on the 20 th 1 1 November , 9 7 , when with his company in attack and al n approaching the fin obj ective , a nest of enemy machine gu s in the western outskirts of a village opened fire both on his n t he unit and o the unit on right . The advance was checked and heavy casual ties resulted . When a Lewis gun was called for to deal with these machine L C l McB eath im guns , / p . volunteered for the duty , and ‘ r B S e . R R R O E H V . C . gt E T M AT ,

32 K INLOCHB E RVI E

who wa future in the sphere of service he had adopted , and s

off of still but a youth , should have been cut by the hand a to skulking assassin , was a tragedy well calculated produce , as it did , feelings of profound sorrow and disappointment . Wh en the Duke of Sutherland resolved to sell his estate in l smal parcels , this parish was put up for sale and was purchased by a native , the late Mr . George Morrison .

f r . o Mr Morrison was born in Strathan , where his father was f many years a Shepherd on the farm o Keoldale . He was

Mac a . K educated at home , principally by the late Mr George y of Badcall (who had been tutor t o many lads wh o afterwards ’

. 0 prospered) , and at Oldshore School He was a lad parts .

Though he went out into the world penniless , he carried with two al of him v uable assets in life , a high ideal duty , and a great love for his native place . Fortune smiled upon him , and when e opportunity offered , he bought Kinlochbervie , and b came

n the proud laird of his native parish . He did ot find it a gold t o of mine , however , and , beginning feel the hand time and im h . disease heavy upon , he sold it to the late General Stronach l He then retired t o his farm in U lapool where he died .

- Brigadier General Robert Summers S tronach ,

- - V of R oadr ails . was ice Chairman Ltd , the Stronach Dutton

R oadr ails . Patent , which was operated mainly abroad He surveyed the ground for the introduction of the system between Lairg and Kinlochbervie .

He was educated at Merchiston , served with the Colonial

Forces in the Boer War , when he was severely wounded . In of the Great War he was Director Roads and Bridges . R E LIG IOUS HIST OR%

T h e App r oach of Ch r i s t . Though there is no record left as to when the Christian faith reached this part of Scotland , there is ample evidence of the

of manner its approach , for the brave and venturesome pioneers of the Gospel have left in dellible marks upon our rocky coast . The celebrated missionaries of Iona approached ou r land and its people from the sea . They occupied some uninhabited islet which they made the base from which to reach the people of the mainland . That was their method , a method of peaceful penetration . They had no sword except that of the Spirit . They had no lord to whom they owed allegiance except the unseen Lord of the soul , whose commission they sought to fulfil as the supreme end of life . Columba himself was called the island soldier and his followers adopted his method , as they manifested his spirit ,

of o in the work evangelisati n . The names of our islets still

i - - n . r o sing their glory E lean nan is not the isle of the seals , as is commonly supposed , but the isle of Ronan , a Columban saint . The stance and remains of his cell are still on the

. Naoimh t o island Eilean na , the isle of the saints , points its occupation by those devoted Gospel heroes of the unknown h . C on n aidh past Eilean a does not mean , as is generally supposed , the island on which the people of Oldshore pick up of broken pieces wreckage for firewood , but the habitation of 33 34 KINLOCHBERVIE

a ChOmhn id u h . the Mission Band or Brotherhood , Eilean It became their residence , their headquarters . So also Port

Ch alai ea n ot of g g is a name given , by the inhabitants the coast ,

ea R oman but by people approaching it from the s . and his

Chalai ea men left their coracle in Port g g , the little wee r harbour , while they evangelised the count yside . In those far off days there were n o people round Loch d Laxfor . , and the Missionaries did not frequent it But at a sea later date they found a harbour of refuge from the , as

- - many another has Since done , in Eilean nan Eireannach , ’ Don ball the Isle of the Irishmen . Loch g (Dugald s Loch)

' the I r ish or is a name that points in the same direction , Argyllshire name of some venturesome soul wh o did his work

of ou r and passed away , leaving the mark his name upon a hr amh rocky Shores in the Ce t Garbh .

Those men came to our coast with a song in their hearts .

The gladness of the Gospel story bore them over the waves , and enabled them to endure the untold hardships of the sea , and the privations of life upon its uninhabited islands . Their faith sustained them , and they met all the dangers and trials m of their lot with a triumphant hy n of praise . I walk secure and blessed

In every clime and coast ,

In Name of God , the Father ,

The Son , and Holy Ghost .

We are all their debtors .

n Coven anti g Tim e s . Little or nothing is known of the religious life of the people during the silent centuries that lie between the introduction of of Christianity and the period the Reformation . Durness COVENANTING TIMES 35 was the point from which the Church reached the pe ople from i on e K ylesku t o B or g e river . That whole district was parish B aln acille in the diocese of Caithness . was the centre from which all religious influence emanated till the year 1 726 when E ddr achil the parish was divided into three , namely , Durness , who lis . , and Tongue The minister was then in Durness , t o to George Brodie , chose leave it and come live in Badcall

of . 1 0 . Scourie , as the first minister the parish He died in 74 The most prominent minister in the Reay Country in the period between the Reformation and the Revolution was Alexander Munro of Durness whose truly apostolic labours of were greatly blessed . He found the people sadly ignorant

o l . the Gospel and wh lly il iterate They were , however , fond of of music and song , a trait character which he cultivated and

se l . u d as a means of evange isation He composed hymns , in which the fundamental and experimental truths of religion t o were expressed in memorable form , and set them easy and popular music . In this way he induced the pe ople t o recite and sing the Gospel in their homes , at their ceilidhs , and at ’ Lao dh an Mhai hs ir . . i e t their work Mr Munro s hymns , g

Alasdair as they were called , were widely known and highly n popular I this part of his wide parish .

1 6 Before his death in 4 3 , an Englishman , a refugee from the

- non conformist persecutions of the period , sought refuge in Ceathr amh the remote fastnesses of An Garbh . His name was

ai of War r wick shir e George Squ r , a native . He set himself t o so learn the Gaelic language , which he mastered that he to t o in was able preach the people their native tongue .

n o al With no ecclesiastical status , and with s ary he did the was work of an evangelist in what then a needy corner . 36 KINLOCHBE RVI E

He lived happily among the people as one of themselves

an t His haunt , however , was discovered by the authorities , red coats were sent t o find him . When hotly pursued on on

saw ] occasion he a girl weeding potatoes , which were the coming into use in these parts . He asked her what she wa he s . o doing , and replied , Weeding potatoes And have y ’ while so engaged any thought about the interests ofyour soul% % h . s e . r a in he asked Yes , said While weeding I am p y j ’ that the Lord may weed the love of Sin out of my heart . m i If that be so he said , you will try to conceal me from

so th ~ persecutors , who are close behind , and , in doing , tell % % sh e ] truth . Come quickly , then , said , and lie down i this deep furrow , and I will hide you with weeds . When the soldiers arrived and asked if she had seen Mr “ ’ she : com e an d st oo< Squair , said Yes , he came the way you ve , where you are standing if you are active you may catch hin on ] soon . They hurried their way , and when they were we out of Sight he rose , Singing , Ev ’ n as a bird out of the fowler ’ s snare

Escapes away , so is our soul set free .

n He married a native of the parish , that same young woma

Mu n r c it may be . A daughter of this marriage married a Mr .

Du n a native of the parish of Rosskeen , who held land near robin , which is now part of the home farm there . They had son who , George , became the celebrated minister of Farr fror

1 t o 1 m i' 754 775 , and whose generous hospitality Rob Dor , on his poem on The Presbytery , and in another piece , only verse of which is extant , has immortalised .

‘ During the period of the covenanting struggle the sacr amer

’ of the Lord s Supper could be observed only with grea n din secrecy by the dispossessed ministers . The blessing atte C OVENANTIN G TIMES 3 7

’ S u air s Mr . q ministry was such that a strong desire was felt by his followers in the parish to have a communion service . The two places at which such services used t o be held were

- - Air idh - -Cr u ithn each Larach nam Bord , at nan , above Scourie ,

Dr u im - - and at a point between Oldshoremore and na gaoithe . Both places were regarded as too open and prominent for the

r pu pose , and a spot on the riverside between Rhiconich and u Loch Ghar bad was selected . Word was sent o t privately t o who t o those who could be trusted , and were known be interested . About one hundred met on Sabbath morning . Those were the more devout and faithful in all the hamlets in

E ddr achillis and Kinlochbervie . They approached the place as if by stealth , with feelings greatly agitated , but with hearts rising in earnest supplications that the Lord might grant them Hi s protection and His gracious presence . When they came to the place they found themselves in the centre of a glade overgrown with birchwood , and sheltered by wild and beetling

n rocks . The pulpit desk was a birch tree , saw off at a con sider able height , and the tables were formed of turf covered

sod . with green , smooth

The service was opened with singing and prayer , and after reading and a short exposition , and again Singing , Mr . Squair took for his text the words of Thomas when delivered from his % unbelief , My Lord and my God . The whole service was a memorable one

Obsdal e It was long believed that , in the parish of Ross was keen , the only place in the north in which the sacrament of the Lord ’ s Supper was administered during the twenty ’ eight years persecution . It will be seen , however , that the parish of Kinlochbervie divides with Rosskeen that honourable % distinction . 3 8 KI NLOCHBE RVI E

wa Mr . Squair s for a long time the only Presbyterian minister in the Reay country . He was eventually j oined by three other

who l Lochbr oom u persecuted ministers , travel ed by and Assy t t o E ddr achilli s . One might be safe there , but four could not for be long . They resolved on common action . They went t o t o Tongue , where Lord Reay was supposed be sympathetic , but he dared not Show any sympathy . He refreshed them

B i hou on se . secretly , and sent them to his kinsman at g There i ar they met w th Simil treatment .

Thence they made their way t o Ulbster House where the n Si clairs were supposed to be friendly . There they were kindly received and concealed for a time . The Bishop of

Caithness had many Sharp and long ears , and Sinclair feared d t o of etection . He sent a faithful messenger the Earl to Sutherland who was known be sympathetic , asking if he n ot could shield the men . He had been successful in shielding ' his M Cu lloch own minister the Rev . John , but he offered the t o men his protection , if they could be conveyed privately

Dunrobin . They were kindly received in the dead of night from a boat at the j etty below the castle , but the Earl still feared they might possibly be spies trying to ensnare him . They might be prelatic detectives on the hunt for big game and large fines .

After consulting the Duchess on the point , it was resolved to invite the men after supper to conduct a private prayer of t o meeting , the spirit and conduct which would discover their hosts whether they were true men or not . During worship all suspicions and fears were banished . The visitors God revealed themselves as true men of , and they were received o as the guests f God .

4 0 KINLOCHBERVI E

The difference of views and feelin gs came t o a head on a ’ New Year s eve , when the Maj or gave an entertainment and

t o . t o do dance all his dependents It was his habit this , that he might have them all at the same time under his own super vision , and save them from congregating in questionable of of places , where some them were in danger disgracing themselves with drunkenness and riotous conduct . u Entertainment he knew they must have , and he tho ght they t o u l ought have it in a harmless and healthf l way , that wou d to save them from having it in a way demoralising them . ‘ M B r ide Mr . looked upon it differently , and thought the

Maj or was setting others an evil example . He denounced the

so . as . evil in public , and the breach widened Excellent Mr M‘B r ide m of was , and much esteemed , still the sy pathies the good people were more with the Maj or than with him .

t o This state of matters , however , led regardless characters

on play a practical j oke of a disgraceful kind the minister .

‘ ’ M B r ide Like Mr . Robertson , Mr . administered the Lord s l Supper at Kinlochbervie as well as at Eribo l . Every thing n ow was n ot SO . necessary easily obtained then as He had ,

t o to u to therefore , take a j ourney across the Moine Tong e get t . o l the needed bread and wine On returning Eribol , these , together with the communion plate , were securely packed in “ cr u ba creels , to be slung from a g and carried on horseback .

so as t o All was placed be ready for an early start next morning .

After much fatigue , Kinlochbervie was reached in due time , ’ t o se and , when the minister s wants were attended , they t for about all necessary preparation the communion . On unpacking the creels , both minister and elders were shocked — t o find that everything had been abstracted plate as well as — o wine and their weight made up with stones and s d . This MI SSI ONARI ES 4 1 must have been done during the night before starting from l — Eribol , and naturally enough whoever the miscreants that — did it the doing of it was attributed t o the state of feeling that

‘ M B r ide MacK a existed between Mr . and Maj or y.

‘ M B r ide Mr . and those congregated for the Solemnity , n ot however , determined that the communion should be

r deferred . Before Saturday , wine and flour were secu ed , ‘ M B r ide Mr . himself is said to have baked the bread , and stone o ware was used instead fplate . Though the outward provision was of thus the humblest and most primitive kind , still the — communion Sabbath was a day t o be remembered a day whereon the Lord vouchsafed His gracious presence in a way

o that filled the hearts of His pe ple with a feast of good things . The people of Kinlochbervie were indignant at what was

‘ as M B r ide done , being a Slight upon them , as well as upon Mr . , so they determined to collect and present him with a new se t of of communion plate . They entrusted the securing it to a

MacK a who was n Mr . Robert y, called to Inver ess or Edinburgh for examination in connection with his being appointed as teacher in the district by the Society for Propagating Christian

Knowledge . ‘ ' M B r ide ot . s He bought the plate , and g Mr name engraved ‘

hi . M B r ide on . on s it But return , he found Mr had left the his Reay country to enter upon charge in Arran , and , being gone , the ardour of the people cooled , and the collection t o

. . MacK a defray the expenses of the plate was never made Mr y, t o his therefore , made a present of it friend , the Rev . Mr . E ddr achilli al s . F coner , , and his successor in office At the e Disru ption it was the p rsonal property of the Rev . George who Tulloch , j oined the Free Church , and he in his turn left it to n of i the co gregation the Free Church at Scour e , and we 4 2 KINLOCHB ERVI E

presume it is still used there at communion seasons .

‘

M B r id a . Mr . e w s succeeded in the Mission by the Rev

John Kennedy , afterwards of Redcastle . His ministry in Kinlochbervie was richly blessed even if he had no more t o his

h im MhO r Th a s credit than Bean a C r eid h i herself . In e D y of the F ather s in R oss-shir e we have two passages that show us the difficulties under which the work of the church was m carried on in those times On one occasion , walking fro to Eriboll Rhiconich , he was accompanied by his beadle , and

his . n ot by youngest brother , then a mere boy They had

o on proceeded far when a snowst rm came , and his little hi . s arm s brother became quite exhausted Raising him in , my father carried him , and not only kept up with the beadle , but d left him behind . The interval between him and the bea le

so was increasing fast , that he at last waited till he came up , when he found him so wearied that he was compelled to relieve t o him of the portmanteau which he carried , and strap it own who on his back . Those were waiting his arrival at the ’ j ourney s end were not a little surprised to see him coming wiht n the bag on his back , and the boy in his arms , and draggi g n the beadle by the h a d . The Sacrament of the Supper was dispensed at Kinloch

vi . ber e , while he was missionary in the district The only minister present with him on that occasion was the parish

m . clergy an The less that would be given him to do , the better all so pleased would he himself and others be , and the whole burden of the service was left upon the missionary . The only available and comfortable room near the place of meeting was occupied by the ministers . A considerable

of number respectable persons had gathered , among whom MacK a MacK a l . were Maj or y of Eribol , Mr y of Hope , and MI SSIONARI E S 4 3

- several others . In a corner of the meeting house there was a square seat into which heather had been packed , and there , i covered w th their cloaks , the Maj or and some others Slept . ’ The minister s house - keeper having to furnish the gentry with a light , as they retired to their sleeping places , failed to find t o a candlestick , and , being anxious save appearances , was in

n o l . t o smal ferment In great perturbation , She came her master t o tell him that the only candlestick she could put “ acK a was e before Maj or M y a p at with a hole in it . There

n o was better candlestick in the stable at Bethlehem , was

his only reply to her statement of grievances . He knew well

o that those about whose comfort Abigail was so anxi us , were

quite content with whatever provision was made for them .

of A great crowd people had gathered , and the parcels of provisions they had carried with them were stored behind a on e of screen , formed by a sail hanging from the rafters of the

- f r hi n . o s meeti g house Each one came , at stated times , parcel ,

that he might eat his crust beside a stream on the hillside .

In barns they found accommodation during the night . But

of His the Lord was in the midst them , and many felt saving

saw power and His glory during that communion season . ’ so of On Monday , in particular , much the Lord s presence was enj oyed by His people that to many ofthem it was the happiest l of . day their ife When the time for parting came , none had % t o a t o courage s y farewell the minister . They lingered l t o around him , and fol owed him his house and , before they sat t o separated , he and they down together , a refreshment in

the open air . That over , they walked together towards an

t o . i eminence , over which the people had pass On reach ng the

summit they stood around the minister as he prayed , and to of of commended them the care the Good Shepherd Israel . 4 4 KINLOCHBE RVI E

t o as He then said them , tears ran down his cheeks , This is n ot pleasant , my dear friends , but it must end we need or expect unbroken communion , either with each other with % ou r the Lord , till we all reach in safety home in heaven , and , without trusting himself to bid them farewell , he turned away as from them , and they , each one weeping he went , took their respective j ourneys t o their homes .

M ini s t r ie s

For a lon g period the parish was singularly unfortunate in u its ministers . The first settled in the newly erected ch rch

MacK en zie was Mr . David . He had been a schoolmaster in of the parish of Reay , and was licensed by the Presbytery

an d to his on Caithness . He was ordained inducted parish the Ma K a 1 8 2 . . c 2 oth day of August , 9 The Rev Hugh y Mac

t o Kenzie , of Tongue , preached and presided at the ordina i n . Cor 1 1 . . 2 2 . . His texts were , Rev iii in Gaelic , and v 4 , 5 in

English .

The people were greatly uplifted , for hitherto they had been served somewhat irregu lar ly by ministers and pr o was bation er s . The minister of the parish careless and addicted t o drink . By timely resignation he saved himself from deposi

n ot . tion , but from his vice Great expectations were entertained for a useful and successfu l pastorate under the

n ot . new minister . Those expectations were realised He had a servant maid , named Annie Dodds , whom he was reported u to have dismissed . Next s mmer he went from home and came back with her as his wife . Tongues at once began to wag . A wild flame blazed through the parish and a special meeting of Presbytery was held at Rhiconich to inquire into the facts of the case . MINI STRI E S 4 5

on of to As witnesses were put oath , it may be interest note the names of the members of the presbytery and of the of witnesses present . The members Presbytery , the “were Ma K a M n . c acK e zie Rev . George Tulloch , Scourie Mr Hugh y ; Fin lat er Tongue ; Mr . William , Durness ; Mr . David Mac Ma L d . c eo Kenzie , Farr ; with Mr Hugh , Divinity Student , of an d i clerk . The representatives the congregation w tnesses

MacK a of were , Murdo Ross , Achlyness ; Margaret y, wife al MacK a MacK a Don d y, Sheigra ; Donald y, Sheigra ; MacK a Robert y, Sandwood ; Donald Morrison , Junior ,

Kinlochbervie ; George Morrison , Kinlochbervie ; Angus A chr is ill MacK en zie A chr is ill Calder , g ; John , g ; George MacK a Campbell , Kinlochbervie ; Hugh y, merchant ,

Kinlochbervie . The minister was called t o subsequent meetings of Presby t er n to y, but havi g failed appear , and having left the parish r and the country he was deposed on the g ound of contumacy . During all this time the supply of ordinances was but 1 8 irregular . In 54 a royal presentation was issued in favour

of . Rev Robert Clark , a native of Tongue , who was then l of . minister the Gae ic Chapel in Glasgow The people , however ,

of had set their hearts on having Mr . Archibald Cook , Berridale

and Bruan . He had been there previously giving supply ,

- when he preached both on Sabbath and week days . A 1 of petition in his favour , signed by 37 heads families , was

sent t o the Presbytery . Mr . Cook had promised to come if he

received a presentation . At this j uncture the people did something that stands t o

of la alt t o the credit their y y as clansmen , and the nobility of their Christian spirit , though it reveals a pathetic lack of n ordinary worldly wisdom . The Crow as patron presented 4 6 KINLOCHBE RVI E

’ Mr . Robert Clark . Such was the people s trust and confidence in their superior that they actually petitioned the Duke of. n who Sutherla d , had permitted them to be harried and ou t of to w fired their ancient homes , to recommend the Cro n a minister who would be an acceptable spiritual guide t o them

The people were opposed t o Mr . Clark as he was not their

. l choice He was a man of good standing and of good qua ities , M‘ illi . . G vr a of but they would not have him Mr Angus y,

Strathy , was appointed to moderate in a call to Mr . Clark .

There was a large congregation present , but only the factor of l s and ten heads families signed the Ca l . When per ons to d es ar a in came forward sign , audible p g g remarks were made about their public and private character , which had the effect of intimidating others . In any case only ten signed .

The three elders of the congregation , Angus Calder , Robert

Gunn , and John Mackenzie , were appointed to petition the

Presbytery against Mr . Clark and in favour of Mr . Cook . The terms of the petition are as follows The petition of the undersigned inhabitants of the district of Kinlochbervie hum bly Sheweth that the late most noble and excellent Duke of o of Sutherland , in answer to a petition from the pe ple i to K nlochbervie , was pleased to signify to them his intention to recommend them the fittest person for being their minister , who should be agreeable to his tenants of that district , being satisfied that the usefulness of a minister depends both on his own acquirements and his being generally agreeable t o those al over whom he may be c led upon t o preside . That favourable communication was generally understood as granting the petitioners their request , and accordingly a deputation from them attended upon and obtained from the Rev . Presbytery

4 8 KI NLOCHBE RVI E

. t Your petitioners , considering that the Rev Presby ery have already signified their willingness t o give the people their

l own choice , providing the appointment fel into their hands , beg leave most humbly and respectfully to express their confidence that they will give no countenance t o a violent of of settlement the presentee against the will the congregation , but on the contrary shall stop proceeding in the settlement l unti they are fully satisfied as to the harmony of the parish .

Your petitioners are aware that Mr . Cook , on whom the mind of e the p ople is fixed , has been represented to the most noble landlords as deficient in ministerial qualifications , but the of i Rev . Presbytery , constituted in the name Christ , and act ng l as t o t o do by His authority alone , wil j udge it belongs them so n in , whether he is really qualified by life and doctri e accord g

t o I st . . n ot the rule of the Apostle Tim iii , and whether he is by his principles and habits of life particularly suited to the people of i of Kinlochberv e , among whom there are none a higher schoolrn a t er s s rank than s and fisher . It has been observed of an d of that men decided piety , of universal diligence , and of close application to the duties of the ministry , though ordinary talents , have often been more useful in the church than men of greater talents and learning , and unquestionably this is the sole ground on which the religious public in general , and the people of Kinlochbervie do par ticularly cleave t o

- i . 6 2 . . e in o I st Cor . 2 Mr . C ok , , 9 And Mr Loch has admitt d his letter that a doubt is n ot even intim ated against the piety ’ of Mr . Cook s character and conduct . Consequently the petitioners can not help viewing the intr usion of a minister of o on e n a different stamp up n them , and who by accepti g the presentation t o Kinlochbervie in face of repeated intimations given him of the feelings of the people and from other circum MINI STRIES 4 9

stances stands on a footing with them very different from of what he did formerly , as a direct violation of the rights the

t o al Christian people , and the promise made them to be lowed t o to choose their own minister , as well as contrary the word of

God and the standards of our church . May it therefore please the Rev . Presbytery of Tongue only to consider the

t o . promises , and not sustain the presentation in favour of Mr Clark until they have made inquiry into the harmony of the to i t o parish , and act therein in all respects as they w ll j udge t o of God of be most the glory and the edification the people , thus uniting them together in a regular attendance on divine d n t o of God of or i ances , according the Word and the rules the church , and your petitioners Shall ever pray . 1 The petition was signed by the three elders and 37 persons ,

. t o heads of families , in the parish It is difficult understand how the ministers who constituted the Presbytery at that time could have intruded a crown presentee upon a people f n o . so like those Ki lochbervie They did , however , with the

of result that the three elders resigned office , and the body ’ the people never owned Mr . Clark s ministry and never attended his church . T h e Di sr u ption f o . ue to After the intrusion Mr Clark , the people contin d meet under the leadership of the elders who al together with Don d Lamont , Badcall Inchar MacK a y, Oldshoremore . The latter was a 4 religious standing among the people and was doing the work of a catechist , though he never received an appointment or

o remuneration as such . The Presbytery was petitioned t

for appoint him as catechist , but want of funds this was not done . These men were not only ministering with devotion 50 KINLOCHBE RVI E

i to the spir tual needs of the people , but were at the same ti

V keeping them in touch with the revived spiritual life , that

: spreading over the land , and that issued finally in the Chu of Scotland Free .

. to From the first , Mr Clark did not find it easy work in l . w parish For some years he had but few to help him , and

st , the Disruption took place , he chose to remain in the

l connection . The enthusiasm with which that historic ev was hailed by the people who had suffered for years

’

. l spiritual disadvantages of an intrusion , was widespread entire population declared for the Free Church , with exception of three families . One man , a native of Tongue , ’ min ist being asked why he continued to attend Mr . Clark s DO who replied , you suppose I could forsake a man had back to the wall %

l E ddr achillis an d 1 Mr . George Tu loch , minister of , l Fin later t o Wil iam , minister of Durness , helped orgar

Fin later and consolidate the congregation . Mr . Eric had j received license and was sent to serve the parish for a %x Many years afterwards he wrote his reminiscences in 7 % Free Church Monthly Record . My first serm on in S e ak i Free Church was under the shadow , or more strictly p r o in the Shelter of a rock , the people sitting on the high This was in the parish of Kinlochbervie and alth0 1 comparatively young and inexperienced , and certainly c possessed of popular pulpit talents , the whole church g population of the district came to hear me , not only on t

am « but on every succeeding Sabbath , while I soj ourned chu them . Although we were not out of sight of the parish that day , the minister chose , rather than Open the church go to a distant corner of the parish , where , if he had TH E DI SRUPT ION 5 1

service , he must have held it along with an old Gaelic Society

h lrn a er who Sc oo st and another man , happened to be a native

of the same parish as himself .

Though Mr . Clark had lost the entire respect of the people as of was n o a minister Christ , there act of disrespect towards

m or hi self the church , such as amused and even disgraced

other parishes . In Durness on the first Sabbath after the u of Disruption , the tong e the church bell was rapt in an Old SO n o stocking , that it gave sound , while in Farr , a dead dog was suspended above the pulpit . The opposition of the Duke of Sutherland t o the Free Church an d his refusal to grant Sites had the effect of delaying of for n o t o the settlement ministers , they had church worship in and n o manse t o live in . The years immediately after forty-three were years of alm ost incredible hardship and l suffering for both ministers and people . The case of Kin och

l f n o t o bervie was pecu iarly di ficult . At first they had place ir ei meet in except on the public highway under Craig na Spe g . ’ who The elders resigned after Mr . Clark s intrusion were not

ill to ai w ing accept Office ag n . They were all keenly interested in the work of the church , but their past experience made them

. 1 8 6 hesitate Eventually in 4 four were appointed , namely , MacK en zie Achr is ill Angus Calder and John g John Macleod , h ir a S ei . Oldshoremore and Donald Morrison , g They were Fin lat er the first Free Church elders in the parish . Mr . Eric has left a pen portrait of on e of them in the Annals of the

Disruption . He had what you could conceive as being the look of Ezekiel . He was a tall dark complexioned man , with a countenance as if cast in bronze , a Sharp black eye , deeply set in the head , and surmounted by shaggy eyebrows . His n hair was long and dark brow , and he wore a great coat made 5 2 KINLOCHBE RVI E

of homespun cloth . His look was downcast , and his voice n ot ou deep , but harsh You felt that before y stood % on e who had deep experience in the Christian warfare . This was Angus Calder .

The people were poor , and at that period suffering the of utmost privation through the failure the potato crop . Many of who were at the point starvation , yet the collectors formed the Association for the Sustentation Fund were able t o t o guarantee a sufficient amount to enable them call a minister .

1 8 8 a l . who In 4 they c l ed the Rev Thomas Fraser , had been of supplying the pulpit for some months . The hearts the parish on e ou t to al as went him , and he accepted their c l . No sooner was the Duke shamed to grant Sites than bu ilding r 1 8 6 began . The new chu ch was finished in 4 , but when Mr . Fraser was called there was no manse nor any immediate prospe ct of getting one . He gladly accepted the call of a people who gave him their hearts though they could not give him a home to live in . In spite of their poverty they were happy together . The parish minister was well housed , state paid , but soul starved , while he was homeless , Often hungry h t o for but very happy . W ile they had no money give the erection of either church or manse they had great goodwill which in the form of free labour became the equival ent of 1 8 1 a large sum of money . Early in 5 the manse was finished .

I t was the gift of the Manse Building Fund of the Church . Wh en it was finished it cost about £50 more than the original estimate , and the contractor refused to hand over the key till who as a that sum was paid . George Corbet , acted congreg l tion a treasurer , wrote to the Manse Building Committee , 0 and the £5 came , which turned the key in the door , and let the waiting minister inside . THE FREE CH URCH 5 3

i n There s no tradition of the house warmi g , but obviously

- was he did not find it as home like as he wished . There a i young lady in Melv ch , Mary Innes Sinclair , who had agreed

t o come to help him to make the manse a home . They were

1 8 . married in 55 , but their happiness was short lived She

died , leaving two daughters , one of whom is Mrs who him Macintosh , Melvich . It is said by those knew that he

ar 1 862 . was never the same afterw ds . He died in The affection of his people is commemorated in a memorial hi s stone over grave in the Oldshore Cemetery , bearing the following inscription In Mem or i am O F T H E

R v T H O M A S F R L S E R e d . ,

M n ster of the Fr ee C ur c K nloc e r v e i i h h , i hb i ,

Wh o d ed i 8th Se te e r 862 in th e 4 6th e ar i p mb , 1 , y

of h is a e an in th e i l th of his in str . g , d m i y T hi s st on e is pl ace d h er e by h is sor r owi n g con g r e gati o n t o m ar k e r r o o n a ac e n to as a as or an d e r v a e th i p f u d tt hm t him p t , th i high lu ofh is u n w e ar i e d e xe r tio n s to pr o m ote th e i r t e mpor al an d spi r i tual

i n te r e s ts du r i n g th e pe r i od o f h is mi n i st r y am on g th e m .

. who was k Mr Donald Corbet , succeeded , a remar able man .

- was A native of Ross shire , he for many years a teacher before i enter ng the ministry . He was appointed parochial school Ar dn amu r chan 1 8 0 master of in 3 , a position which he held till 1 84 3 . At his appointment the Presbytery recorded that they found him in all respects duly qualified to teach the several branches required of him . He was a warm supporter of the Evangelical party in the ’ church , and as the Ten Years Conflict proceeded , he became l involved local y in the heated controversy that prevailed .

. of Mr Corbet acted as Session Clerk the parish . A Mr . Neil 5 4 K I NLOCHB E RVTE

MacPh ail as i was employed a teacher with n the parish , certain charges were lodged against him before the Sess

t o on all He appealed the Presbytery , who acquitted him

su s e r charges , and ordered those who made them to be p e from church ordinances . Mr . Corbet was summoned befor for Presbytery his part in the matter , but for two year t o l failed Obey the citations of the court . Eventual y

ar an d was . appe ed , rebuked for his conduct in the case an d fact was that he , being a pronounced evangelical of members Presbytery being predominantly moderate , made to suffer for his principles and for his unguarded toi w at the same time . He had qualified for the ministry and 1 8 probationer of the church at the Disruption . In July 4 was declared by the Presbytery t o be n o longer a preal of the Church of Scotland .

In the early fifties Mr . Corbet came to Sutherland , and employed as supply in Strathy and Halladal e . The ch had been vacant Since 1 84 3 . The maj ority of the m un ican ts and more than half the adherents were stro

t o . opposed him . The opposition first favoured Mr

of a Sinclair , afterwards Invergordon , a native of the p The division was so strong that a Commission of the A SS6 ] for was sent t o make peace . The controversy went on y

’ am Mr . Corbet s friends refusing to consider any other , favc opponents refusing to give in . His opponents then l e . ll a Mr Wi iam Fraser , Lochgilphead , and another tri of str

. 0 took place . When Mr . Fraser , Kinlochbervie , died , Mr

all . l got a unanimous call , which he cordi y accepted He can thoughtful and studious man . He collected and wrote accounts of religious life in the Highlands . The he on e of . t Dr . Andrew Bonar published his MSS under

5 6 KI NLOCHB E RVI E

He had made all arrangements for the Communion , which was . MacGr or of . e then held in June Mr Duncan g Ferintosh , l . MacK a of A th ahar r and Mr John y a had promised to assist .

who These arrangements were carried out by the Sisters , were guided and supported by Mr . Sutherland .

’ His tombstone records his people s high esteem and f estimate o him .

E r ected by his Congr egati on t o the Me m or y of

Rev . D O N A L D C O R B T T d E ,

M n ster of th e Fr ee C u c K nloc be r v e i i h r h , i h i .

for 1 6 ye ar s.

se r van of e s s C r s so n in th e a of zea for th e A t J u h i t , u d f ith , full l r a as a r e r ove r of S in an d r e ac e r of th e G os e t uth , f ithful p p h p l .

B r o n e r r ac o s n % e n ce s r o h is o 3. m an ught u d g i u i u f m y uth , o f n s o e e a n e - n or e an d s o s in h is a s u p tt d lif , mi d w ll i f m d tudi u h bit , e - ve r se in th e oc r n e s of r ace a n d C r s an e x e r e n ce w ll d d t i g h i ti p i , h e sa c r i %ce d po siti on an d p r ospe c t s for th e cr ow n r ights o f th e R e r n 4 h e %r r t o th e n e e e i 1 8 3 to c a e e e d . d m , whi h mly dh d

H is a n an a o r s an d r a s e n e h e e ar e in e ace bu d t l b u t i l d d , d p t d p

on 3 l s t da of M a 188 0 a e 75 . y y , , g d “ % T h r f th e s i e se — 1‘o e e o o s s . P v . x 9 . m m y ju t bl d ,

wh o The men ruled the congregation , as elders , at that

MacK a so period , were John Gunn and Murdo y, very much

so alike in their devotion to the Lord and His kingdom , and very different in their natural disposition . Murdo was a quiet gentle soul , who adorned the offices he held by a humble and prayerful performance of the duties with which he was an entrusted . For m y years he acted as precentor and as on e - Presbytery elder . John Gunn was of the best known among the men of Sutherland in his time . In Caithness and Ross - shire he was well known and highly esteemed as a i faithful and helpful speaker on communion Fr days . In the TH E MEN OF TH E PARI SH 5 7 parish he bore witness to the Lord and His grace such as n o on e else before or Since has ever done . If the minister was from home John Gunn conducted the service of the Sabbath t o the delight of the discerning . Every Sabbath evening i wh le he lived , he held a meeting in his kitchen that proved

t o . a means of grace many He read Bunyan and Boston , Flavel — and Fuller , and other sappy Puritans strong meat which he enj oyed himself and which he delighted t o break n for u of his His dow the se hearers . influence in the parish For of was paramount . many us in those days the fear of Shock ie Gu in n e was incomparably more effective in our

l of od G . general conduct , especia ly on Sabbath , than the fear The stren gth and efficiency of the Christian Church depend n ot so ll much on a few men of outstanding piety , bri iance , and

an d position , whose lives labours in the high places of the field confer distinction on , and give lustre to , their church in of as the eyes other churches and of the world , on the men who , in every parish , hold aloft the banner of the Cross , bearing t o to witness the love of Christ and the power of His grace , by their devoted and active lives among their own friends and h To MacI n tos . neighbours . the latter class William belonged For many years his humble and retiring disposition prevented him from taking the position that his piety and ability entitled h d im t o occupy . A great a mirer and devoted friend of

o so as John Gunn he never felt himself called up n , long that an t o i was veter lived , take a lead ng place , but as soon as he

l MacIn tosh was called away , Wil iam , by general consent , acknowledged the most prominent Christian in the parish . At the fellowship meeting his prayers breathed a spirit of passionate longing for the manifestation of power from on

- high , together with a humility and self abasement that made 5 8 KINLOCHBE RVI E himself and his hearers rely wholly on sovereign grace for all was their blessings . On question day he a general favourite . ou t al When he gave the question , as he often did , it ways deal t with the love of Christ and the experiences ofgrace in the soul and when he spoke he invariably dwelt upon the same themes . He avoided controversy and bitterness . He could

n o not help that , for there was bitterness or censoriousness in

his of his nature , and even if there had been , apprehension the

of his love Christ and level common sense , would have prevented him from expressing it . The people of the neighbouring parishes loved him greatly for what of Christ

his they saw in life and character , and the people of Durness , in particular , Showed their regard in a fitting testimonial .

’ Mr . Corbet was succeeded by one of nature s choicest

1 8 8 . gentlemen , Mr . Duncan Finlayson . Born in 3 in S Uist , a to he went on the invitation of a kinsm n , Australia at the an d age of eighteen . Two years later he returned , resided at

Knock , in the parish of Sleat , where the saintly John

MacPhail was then minister of the Free Church . Under his ministry the returned emigrant was savingly impressed , and he was immediately led t o devote his life to the work of the ministry . After being licenced he acted for a time as assistant

MacLau chlan secretary of the Highland Committee under Dr . .

Thereafter he served as assistant t o the Rev . Alexander Lee

wa 1 88 1 . in Nairn . He s ordained and inducted in It was a time to be remembered . Most remarkable scenes were witnessed at his first communion . Mr . Lee was his chief

. v assistant The ser ices were well attended throughout , and a very deep impression was made . On Monday the con gr egation was swept by a wave of high feeling and enthusiasm . When the benediction was pronounced the congregation did IND U CTI ON SC EN ES 5 9

not disperse . The ministers stayed in Rhiconich Hotel

was r o because the manse not yet in habitable order . A p was cession formed , and the maj ority of that large congrega t o tion marched Rhiconich , a distance of four miles , in expectation of getting another sermon They stood I n a body outside the front door in tense expectation . At length Mr .

- . ou t a Alex Munro , the Hotel keeper , came with a ch ir , which

an d Mr . Lee mounted , from which he delivered a powerful appeal from the words , If any man thirst let him come unto % his ME and drink . His dramatic gestures , vivid illustrations , and his powerful appeals still live in the memory of some of surviving members that deeply moved audience .

’ In Mr . Finlayson s time the Disruption Church , built on the t o Tanfield Hall model , with the pulpit the Side and a door at

end as t o- each , was reconstructed and reseated , it is day .

The repairs t o church and manse cost over £80 0 .

of 1 8 2 After the passing the Declaratory Act , in 9 , a number of families throughout the parish withdrew from the Free u of Ch rch , and formed the congregation the Free Presbyterian

Church of Scotland . This Secession was in n o sense due t o the

on . minister , nor a reflection his work and Character The movement was due entirely t o what its supporters regarded

as a matter of principle .

n two After a lingering ill ess , extending over years , Mr . 1 of u 1 0 of Finlayson died on the 3th J ne , 9 5 , at the age

- Sixty seven . He is survived by a widow and two daughters

who reside in London . 60 KINLOCHBE RVI E

The memorial over his grave bears the followi ng Inscription E r ected by his sor r owi n g Congr egati on I n Lovi ng Me m or y of

Rev . D U N C A N F I NL A % S O N d , W w h o as for 24 year s th ei r fai thful Pastor .

B or n in S o U s 1 8 3 8 . uth i t , F n D n e r e . a se ie d at K i l ochb v i U . M on i 8 th n e 19 05 Ju , .

1 0 . l In the spring of 9 5 the Rev John Macaskil , probationer, l t o was happi y settled as colleague and successor Mr .

Finlayson .

In the Church of Scotland Mr . Clark was succeeded , in 1 8 wh 6 . a o t o 5 , by Rev John Adam Macfarl ne , was translated 1 the parish of Urray in 1 86 . h 1 862 . . w o In the Rev . Peter Calder , M A , had been a teacher an was two of at Gr town , and for years minister Fort Augustus ,

r ai was inducted at Kinlochbe vie , where he rem ned for less

1 86 . than two years . He accepted a call to Clyne in 4 He 1 died there in 870 .

acK en zie was The Rev . Kenneth M admitted in December ,

d w n l h i h r 1 8 1 86 an as t o Ki oc lu c a t 6 . r 4 , translated in 7 Th ee 1 8 years later , in 79 , he came to Badcall , Scourie , where he

1 0 . 1 1 remained till 9 3 , when he retired He died in 9 5 at the

- age of eighty seven . He had been twice married , first to

K ir kmicheal t o Annie Macpherson of , Banffshire , and second ,

'

Pen u al of . R ev . . Grant , daughter William C M Grant , minister of Durness .

l . The Rev . Simon Hal y , M . A , a native of Glasgow , and a ’ graduate of Glasgow University , was ordained at St . John s , 1 8 t o New Brunswick , in 73 . He returned this country and . C S RS 6 1 E . MINI TE

c served at Carnwath for a time . He was indu ted at Kinloch

1 8 . bervie in April , 77 He married , and his wife and he became very popular . Both were greatly beloved . Next year a u da ghter , Mary Catherine Margaret , was born , but the mother f who t o o . passed away , the deep regret all knew her He hl h t o K in loc u ic ar t 1 880 . accepted a call , where he died in

al . . . Mr . H ly was succeeded by the Rev David Lundie , M A , t o 1 880 . in March , He was translated Tongue nine years later i where he now l ves in retirement , enj oying the high esteem of all the people . was The Rev . Alexander Crerar , M . A . , the last , and in some Old of respects the most interesting , of the Church Scotland

o ministers . He was a distinguished h nours graduate of was Abe rdeen . He licensed by his native Presbytery of Weem 1 86 of in 9 , and became minister the Presbyterian Church of

Southport . His studious habits and his retiring disposition did not find in Southport a congenial sphere , which he quickly ou itt ed and took up work under the Royal Bounty in different parts of the Highlands till he was admitted to Kinlochbervie

1 88 1 2 . in 9 , where he continued till his death in 9 9 t o was Unknown himself , he the occasion of doing a wide spread and highly spiritual service to evangelical religion in

on o the Highlands and Islands . When his way t the Grammar

- School , Aberdeen , for the first time , one of his fellow travellers

Ma Phail - c . was the Rev . J . Calder The big hearted minister

took a kindly interest in the student , noted his deep devotion ,

o - his high ambiti n , the faith and self sacrifice of his parents , and the prov ision made by the Church of Scotland to help i promis ng candidates for the work of the ministry . At that time the Free Church had no scheme for helping boys to attend

a Grammar School preparatory to entering the University . The 62 K INLOCHBERVI E

minister was moved to reflection , and by the time he reached Ma Phail Aberdeen the c Bursary Scheme was outlined . Soon

- thereafter it was launched , giving wise and well planned assistance to deserving and promising students , at a stage in I their career when they needed sympathetic g uidance . t raised the educational standard of the ministry in the High lands by giving students an elementary education that enabled them to make the best use of a University course . Within recent times the parish has given four men t o the

of . . work the ministry The late Rev Hugh Gunn , born at Rh u voult . . , spent his ministerial life in Skye The Rev James D n l f Ma . c o a d . o D . , M A born at Oldshore , is minister St ’ Oran s Church , Edinburgh . The Rev . Lachlan Angus Calder

MacR ae I n ch ar d Shebst er , born at Badcall , is minister of of Caithness , and his brother , Alexander , the author this

u . work , is minister in Tong e

R v HN K L L e . JO MAC A S I E I DUC A T ON .

The story of how the people were educated serves as a typical illustration of the state of education in most of the i t o Highlands . The her tors were legally b ound supply a

n ot o school in each parish . It did c ncern them that in a wide i parish , populous districts w th many children might be at a distance of twenty or more miles from the parish school .

Kinlochbervie , being but a district of the civil parish of E ddr achilli s n o , had parish school . It was in the Scourie end of the parish .

n o u t o There was comp lsion educate Children , and when parents desired t o have their children educated they usually formed an association or club who invited a teacher to come t o and itinerate among them . He went from house house , staying a week with each family till all the families in the association were visited . They also paid so much per head or ’ e r l p fami y towards the teacher s salary . The first regular school was opened in Oldshore by the

Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge . A Church or Assembly School was subsequently erected on the Shore at In char d Badcall . When the road from Rhiconich to Oldshore was constructed , a new school was erected at the roadside , which was meant t o serve the whole district from Achlyness t o - Kinlochbervie . It consisted of one large class room and a

for room and kitchen a dwelling house . A large garden was laid out and walled round for the use of the teacher . That was 1 8 in 4 6 . 64 KINLOCHB ERVI E

The total cost of the house and grounds when finished was

1 6d . 5 . 1 5 . d 6 . of £3 5 7 The value of the site was £9 7 , that the l 1 garden £4 5 . The erection of the garden wa l cost £ 1 while the schoolroom , dwelling house , desks and forms cost 0 £2 5 . o wa The first teacher app inted to the new school s Mr . John

Cameron , a student , studying for the ministry of the Church of Scotland . Being a student , his appointment was only 1 8 temporary . He was succeeded in 4 7 by a Mr . John Jack , who remained only for two years . His successor was Mr . McK ellar who Alexander , a professional teacher , remained for some years . n a His position was by no means a happy o e . He was p i . o pointed by the E . C Presbytery Tongue , but as the children were all Free Church and attended the Free Church School , u d he was often without any p pils . A complaint was lo ged with the Presbytery that he was neglecting his work and that the school was for days never opened . He suspected that the

o complainant was the Rev . R bert Clark , his minister , and his reply was not likely to placate that gentleman , while it throws a clear light on the educational and social life of the time .

of His letter , dated , April runs , I am in receipt yours 6th sa of the , and in reply beg to y that I am no day during the school hours , if not in the Schoolhouse , out of sight of o premises , except on Tuesday now and then , when I g a see distance of half a mile to the newspapers , and even then

on e We - I am not more than hour absent , and it is a ll known fact to those who are acquainted with this locality that it is n o c fault of mine there being no children attending this S hool , a for since I c me there have been none spoke to me of coming , six a except last winter was a twelve month , made their p ED UCATI ON 65

ear an ce r p , when the e was no teacher in the Free School , but as soon as they secured a teacher they left , with the exception

two . of , and these left when they had finished their quarter who The reply did not satisfy the Presbytery , again wrote ask ing whether he has from the time of his appointment

e u . Op ned the School reg larly at the usual hours His reply , t o of was addressed the clerk Presbytery , worthy of a good

al . lawyer . It effectu ly exposed and Closed up the minister I have t o acknowledge receipt of your letter of the 2 9th 1 8 2 November , 5 , enquiring whether I have from the time of my appointment opened the School in this parish regularly t o at the usual hours , and in reply I beg leave state that I

f . consider the fact o the Rev . Mr Clark having hitherto signed

of u my certificate at the end each term , s fficient proof in every on respect of proper conduct my part up till Martinmas last , and that since that period I have punctually attended to such

as scholars are under my charge , and in proof thereof I invite % investigation into my conduct . The Presbytery allowed the matter to drop . D n al 1 8 . Mac o d In 59 Mr Peter , a native of the parish of Blair l o t o Athol , was app inted the School , where he remained till the new education system came into operation and the School

Board took over the School . They continued to employ him till the old school was evacuated and the new one at In shegr a occupied . t o I n char d MacDon ald ac On coming Badcall , Mr . was companied by his father and a sister . The old man was a great favourite , for he would sit Ceilidh by the hour , yarning the r l stirring tales of Perthshire , which were more th il ing than any l that the peacefu Reay Country could boast of .

The teacher married after he was well advanced in years , and 66 KINLOCHBERVI E

o the lady he brought t the Schoolhouse charmed the Children .

o . To Her presence , her manner , and her singing were a j y those wh o n a k ew her every remembr nce of her is a lasting treasure .

of Her husband was respected and feared by most the young , but she was beloved by all .

One of the most notable teachers in the Olds hore School was

Ma on ald cD . also a Mr . Peter He was popular in his ways , and u a general favo rite with the people . He helped them with their correspondence and in other ways . More than a genera tion of the people of Oldshore owed to him all the education they had received . The people of the parish were always anxious to give their children the benefits of such education as they could get at that time . I t is pathetic to read of them pleading with heritors and Presbyteries to help them to get teachers for their Children , and to see them time after time turned away disappointed .

K in li n Take a concrete case . sai e and Molba had a large population in the thirties and early forties of las t century .

There was no school for their children , and they were too poor t o o provide for themselves . They approached the herit rs through the Presbytery but met with a refusal . Then they to approached the Free Church which they all adhered , but they were told there was no money available for such remote places .

The Free Church Schools were well attended . %uarterly fees were paid , but attendance was voluntary . Young men and women , away from home at the fishing , at farm work , and at domestic service in the summer months , came home in winter and improved their education by going to school . It was no unusual Sight t o see fully grown bearded men trying t o puzzle out the mysteries of the alphabet and of the multiplica EDUCATI ON 67

tion table side by side with infants of tender years . The A chr isgill school by the riverside was tran sferred t o I n she r a g , where a school and dwelling house were built on the site on which the present school stands . When the Scotch

Education Act came into force , the Free Church handed over all her schools throughout the cou ntry as a gift t o the nation . It of was a magnificent gift , worthy the high and generous spiri t that had animated her through all her career in the ri se rvice of the people and the nation . Du ng the interval between the conveyance of the bu ildings to the School Board and the erection of the present school , the premises were i two or converted into dwell ng houses , where three families resided . Two young men from Achr isgill devoted themselves to the was teaching profession . Hector Calder appointed master at A chr is ill 1 8 For g in 66 . three years he served with conspicuous i of success , the attendance show ng an increase 4 5% in the 1 86 period . In 9 the Presbytery transferred him to the

San om or e . important school of g . The Rev James Ross ,

% himself a distinguished teacher and educationist , was then newly settled as Free Church minister of Durness . He saw

. was that Mr Calder marked for promotion in his profession , and he encouraged and guided him to go through the usual

of for course training it . In the Entrance Examination t o 1 8 2 Moray House , in 7 , he stood second for Scotland , and in the Exit he secured excellent in eight su b ect s j , and very good in eight . In Religious Knowledge he was first in both entrance and exit examinations . He was distinguished by very great energy and strength of purpose , which enabled him rapidly to master any subj ect he took in hand . 68 KINLOCHBE RVI E

His first appointment was at Lochinver , from which. he was t o 1 transferred Gartmore in 877 . There he taught with much i l 1 88 success t l 4 , when he was selected by the Foreign Mission Committee ofthe Free Church to go to Lovedale as headm aster of their elementary department . There he laboured with

a r ecia characteristic devotion till death claimed him . High pp tion of his work and character was recorded in the Minutes of l a the Loveda e Bo rd of Education .

al Mr . C der had at heart the welfare of those under his care their rectitude and spiritual welfare was an ever present desire and there must be now , all over the country ,

hundreds of young men whose lives have been influenced . by

The moral advancement of the native pupils was t o him the supreme end of Missionary labour . To it intellectual i a progress was distinctly subord nate , being only means to an end . For this end and with the certain hope that it would be ultimately realised , he laboured faithfully until God called % him to his rest . MacK en zie Achr i ill . s Mr John , g , attended the parochial school , first as a pupil , and then as a monitor and assistant . ’ air t s i Being a lad O p , he qual fied for the profession , and taught

' Sk er r a of for a time at y, and then at Sands , in the parish i Gairloch , where he spent the rest of his teaching l fe , and where the work of his life and the worth of his character are still held in high esteem .

There were places in the parish , such as Ardmore , where the School Board was not under legal obligation t o educate the children . The people were all Free Church ; and the Free

’ Church Ladies Highlan d Association sent students there in the summer months to teach the young . The people erected

70 KINLOCHB E RVI E

That will do for you ji st go you away an d send ii % Mary . Now When Mary appeared , Duncan said , , Mary , I been telling Norman that you are the best scholar in Su

is h ow . k land . J t Show clever you are Do you n ov meaning of a ver r u b (verb) % % ’ % es it s , in quite a triumphant tone , a noun

Duncan looked defiantly at Norman and says , There , ’ do % ow my friend , what you think of that Didn t I tell y was the cleverest lassie in the Reay Country % wh a e fe r see . I Well , I She is cleverer than my Jessie t .

- lost the half mutchkin , and we had better he added , contentedly ringing the bell .

O L A N D R O H N E C M S . H D . J . M OOR EA KINLOC HBE RVIE T O -DA %

Through various causes a serious Change has taken place in

the population of the parish within recent years . The general depression in the industry of agriculture has naturally had its

effect . The cost of living has remained high while the price of

stock and produce has seriously declined . The young people have gone t o seek more remunerative employment in the

homeland and in the Colonies . This has left the older people

o t o struggle al ne t o maintain homes and steadings . Hence

there is naturally a serious decline in the birth rate .

o al l Apart fr m the land there is no loc industry . Few fol ow

the fishing as a distinct calling , and fewer combine fishing and

l t o agricu ture . They find it a better policy devote their whole

time t o their land and live stock .

o This suggests a serious pr blem . In order to make the rearing of stock pay and maintain a household in comfort an

extension of grazing would be needed , but the estate has none

to give . There is much land , suitable for such extension , in

n o the adj acent deer forest . There seems to be reasonable excuse for continuing such land for the sport of a few while as

o olu la ion an extension of grazing it w uld benefit the whole p t . There is little hope of an increase in the population in the immediate future except by a return to a more intensive

o cultivation of the land , and a more general use of h me

- n grown and home cured food . The latter is o e Of the available means by which the Highland people can retrieve their economic and social position . 7 2 KINLOCHBE RVI E

to n If we were brave enough be characteristically Highla d , ou r own an d as fathers were , grow our corn grind it , rear and

ll ou r own ki own meat and cure it , spin and weave our wool and wear it , we should be a healthier and a happier people . If we could , by our industry , Clear away from our tables such things as Swiss Milk , Danish Butter , Irish Eggs and Foreign of our own Bacon , by providing an adequate supply , we Should u r be on the high way to success . If after supplying o own ou r needs , we sent surplus wherever it could find a market , a rising tide of prosperity would flood our Highlands .

Such things should not sound impossible . Our young people

- are open eyed and active , ready to embrace such opportunities n ot l to al as come their way . They are ikely neglect the we th lying about their feet while looking vainly for that which lies

' CO- across the seas . What they need is a lead in Operative t o production , marketing , and transport , make the Highlands is and Islands the market supply of Scotland . The land poor , is the climate is changeable , transport difficult and expensive , i of s but a w de outlook , clear knowledge pas ing conditions , an d a regul r industry , backed by persevering faith and hope can accomplish marvels . The housing conditions have greatly improved since the century opened . Fixity of tenure has encouraged improve ments on housing and steadings . Modern proprietors have t o encouraged such improvements . Much still remains be done t o bring conditions up t o the standard demanded by h of for . as health authorities . Slate taken the place thatch roofing wood has taken the place ofClay and flag for floorin g; steadings are separated from the dwelling houses and an air of general comfort h as been given t o the parish . KINLOCHBE RVI E To-DA % 73

In the minister of the parish , the Rev . John Macaskill , the

people have a warm fri end and a wise guide . He was inducted

1 0 . as colleague and successor to Mr . Finlayson in 9 5 Since t hen he has been assiduous in his endeavours t o promote their interests in temporal as in Spiritual matters . For many years was V he chairman of the School Board , later he became ice

Chairman of the Education Authority , and is now Chairman f l of the Educational Committee o the County . He is a so

a member of the County Council , and Chairman of the District

Council . The duties of those p ublic offices require much time and is of thought , yet he never forgets that he the pastor Kinloch t o bervie . He systematically attends the Sick and poor , and of to preaches on an average from three five times every week . In the work of the ministry he is supported by a Kirk Session composed of men of deep Spirituality and of practical ex

er ien ce of . of 1 0 p the needs of the people In the Autumn 93 , u the parish Ch rch , having become vacant through the death f r r r o . C a e l Mr , the congregation unanimously and cordia ly ’ i Maca kill united w th the late United Free Church under Mr . s s

ministry . f i o s . The education the parish in capable hands Miss Fraser , is I n she r a a native , headmistress of Oldshore School , while in g is School , Mr . David D . Todd , M . A . headmaster , with Miss D .

Morrison as assistant . Both Schools have , in recent years , l M H . . obtained exce lent Annual Reports from Inspector , ai MacLeod f r proof of satisfactory work . Miss Jessie teaches

in Achlyness , and Miss Mackay in Ardmore . 7 4 APPENDI %

A PPE DI N % I .

T HE G R EA T W A R—ROLL OF HONO‘I

r U KILLED AND DIED o WO NDS .

MacK a Achr is ill—NZ Sergt . Chris . y, g . Contingent . ‘ M In t osh Achr is ill — th . Neil , g , 5 Seaforths ‘ I n osh A ill—N . Z M t chr is . Wm , g Contingent . ‘ M Pher son — J . , Ardmore Gunner , MacK a — th Alex . y, Kinlochbervie 5 Seaforths . — h t . Geo . Morrison , Achriesgill 5 Seaforths — h . t . D . L Ross , Achriesgill s Seaforths —Z N . Hector Ross , Achriesgill . Contingent . — NZ . . M . Ross , Achriesgill Contingent

OTHER S WHO SERVED .

‘ - B — h V C. th Seafor l M eat . t St . . . Sergt R , , Kinlochbervie 5 l Capt . W . Campbell , Achriesgi l . I n char d Lieut . D . S . Macrae , Badcall , — s . Lieut . J . ROSS , Achrie gill Seaforth Highlanders - Sergt . John Clouston , Loch Clash Scottish Rifles . — hl Sergt . R . Macaulay , Stack Seaforth Hig anders . P — O . c Sergt . H . Morrison , . Kinlochbervie Military Transp Ma D n ald l— . C . . c o L / p H , Achriesgil Seaforth Highlanders — LS . Wm . Campbell , Achriesg—ill . Minesweeper l e . M . Campbe l , Achriesgill Mate , Mine Swe per

L . Ross , Achriesgill Minesweeper . ‘ — M I n tosh R . . H . , Achriesgill Navy ‘ M n h — I tos . . J . , Achriesgill T E

76 APPENDI % — J . Grant , Rhiconich Cameron Highlanders — h i t . . hi E Grant , R con ch 5 Dorsets — e . John Fraser , Achlyness Cam ron Highlanders

Hector Ross , Achlyness Gunner .

‘

M Ph er son u . John , Ardmore G nner

‘ ‘ M Ph n . er so Alex , Ardmore

Hector Ross , Ardmore Por tlovor achie Peter Corbett , Por lovor achie . t D Corbett ,

- — MacDon ald I n char d . J . , Badcall Canadians — a J . Ross , Achriesgill Australi ns .

Wm . Ross , Achriesgill

‘ — M . . In t osh ll L , Achriesgi —Cameron Highlanders A . Donald Ross , Achriesgill . S APPENDI% 77

A PPE NDI% I I .

ist of Eld e r s an d Da e of T h e ir O r d in L t ation .

1 8 — l A a Achr i i . 4 5 ngus C der , sg ll A chr is ill . John Mackenzie , g

John Macleod , Oldshoremore .

Shei ir a. Donal d Morrison , g 1 86 — al I n h d c ar . 5 Donald Lamond , Badc l

Alexander Sinclair , Ardmore . MacK a Dr uim Murdo y, na Gaoithe .

H . ugh Morrison , Kinlochbervie

George Morrison , Oldshoremore . 1 8 — Thor maid 79 John Macleod , Oldshoremore (Mac ) . 1 88 — MacI n to h Achr i l s s ill . 4 Wil iam , g MacK a Donald y, Blairmore . Elected but did

accept office . f88 — h h il l MacI nt os Ac r is l . 9 Wil iam , g MacK a Donald y, Blairmore . 8 — 1 0 i m . 9 Will a Morrison , Kinlochbervie

1 0 — Rae Mac all . 9 5 Alexander , Badc ill Achr is . Lachlan Ross , g 1 0 — 9 7—John Pirie , Oldshoremore (Inducted) . 1 1 I MacPher son . 9 George , Ardmore

MacLeod . Donald , Oldshoremore Dr om an Roderick Maciver , . 1 — 1 2 MacK a . 9 George y, Kinlochbervie MacRae I n he r a s . Alexander , g (Teacher) enzie Rh o l MacK uv u t . Angus , T h e Pr ese n t T e n an t r y .

TOW N S H I P TENANT HO L D IN G

Laxfor d Angus MacLeod

Robert Ross

Mrs . Kate Gunn

Widow , John Mackenzie George Macpherson Roderick Corbett

Wm . and Peter Ross

County Council

Widow , John Fraser (Annie) Hugh Munro William MacLeod

Mrs . Dolina Corbett Margaret Macaskill Hector Ross Cottar George Mackenzie John Morrison ri n Mrs . John (Ann) Mor son Small Holdi g

Wm . and John Campbell e Admiral Walter S . Parn ll Achriesgill Alexander Macrae Small Holding Angus Campbell James Corbett

Widow , Falconer (Johan) Morrison Hil hina M Mrs . g acLeod Hugh Campbell Hugh Calder

Widow , Angus Macintosh

Widow , Jemima Mackay William MacLeod Angus Ross APPENDI% 7 9

TOW N S H I P TENANT HOL D I N G

Small Holdin g Cottar

William Ross Small Holding Thomas Fraser Ross Cottar

Donald Morri son Rhifvolt Angus Mackenzie Small Holding

William Macintosh Angus Macaskill Johan Macaskill Cottar Small Holding George William Mackay Cottar Sutherland Education School and Authority Teacher ’ s House David Todd (Teacher) B adcall I n char d Alexander Corbe tt Cottar Norman MacLeOd

L. Andrew S . and David Small Holding Morrison John Mackay

John and Widow , George (Dolina) Mackay Ma R Rev . Alexander c ae John Mackay County Council Poorhouse a MacRae Rev . L chlan A . C . House l MacLeod ShO Dona d House , p, and Garage

Kinlochbervie Rev . John Macaskill

Thomas Gunn Small Holding, Thomas Barr “ Pier House General Trustees Church of Scotland Old Manse 80 APPENDI%

TOW N S H I P TENANT

House John Morrison Small Holding John William Morrison Thomas Mackay

Donald R . Morrison Cottar Hugh Morrison Small Holding

Donald R . Mackay John Hugh MacLeod Allan MacLe od Roderick Mackay r M s . Georgina Gunn George Corbett Church Trustees Manse Free Presbyterian Church Robert and Barbara Mackenzie Small Hold-ing

Widow , John Campbell Cottar William Hugh Morrison Isabella Macintosh Angus Campbell

Widow , Edward Mackay

Hugh Calder House , Shop ,

ShO John Clouston House , p,

and Shed ,

Oldshoremore David Corbett Small Holding h George Corbett , Se r . Sarah Mackay Cottar R r of es . ep John Gunn , deceased Small Holding Hector Gunn and Georgina Williams Cottar James Corbett Small Holding

E s . I . B . Body , q APPENDI% 8 1

TOW N S H I P TENANT HO L D I N G

Oldshoremore George Morrison Small Holding Donald Campbell John Pirie Donald Taylor Morrison Alexandrina Mackenzie Donald MacLeod

Widow , Betsy Munro John Mack ay Donald and Barbara R o Eliza Fraser (Teacher) George MacLeod Sutherland Education SchoOl and Authority Teacher ’ s House Dr u imn agu ie Robert Morrison Small Holding

Widow , Marion Morrison Cottar and Small Holding John Macdonald Hugh MacLeod John Morri son Ma Widow , Thomas cdonald Cottar Boyce MacLe od Small Holding

Pollan Widow , Murdo Macdonald

Widow , Angus Matheson Cottar Hugh Morrison Small Holding George MacLeod Hugh Mackay

John G . Morrison Cottar B lar mor Donald Corbett Small Holding

John G . Morrison John Mackay Cottar Neil MacLe od Small Holding Roderick Morrison Angus MacLean George Mackay

George Mackay , Sr . Robert Mackay 80 APPENDI%

TOW N S H I P TENANT

John Morrison Small Hc John William Morrison Thomas Mackay

Donald R . Morrison Hugh Morrison

Donald R . Mackay John Hugh MacLeod Allan MacLeOd Roderick Mackay ' Mr s . Georgina Gunn George Corbett Church Trustees Church

Free Presbyterian Church Robert and Barbara Mackenzie

Widow , John Campbell William Hugh Morrison Isabella Macintosh Angus Campbell

Widow , Edward Mackay h Hugh Calder House , (

h John Clouston House , '

Oldshoremore David Corbett

Sen r . George Corbett , Sarah Mackay R r of es . ep John Gunn , deceased Hector Gunn and

James Corbett B od B . E

82 APPEND I%

TOW N S H IP TENANT

Roderick Maciver George Mackay

Widow , Wm . Hugh

Hugh George Mackay Barbara MacLeod Donald MacLe od

John MacLeo d

H