NORTHWEST © LonelyPlanetPublications Northwest Northwest 256 and thedistinctive, seeminglyinaccessiblepeakStacPollaidh. that characterises ,andinclude thedelightfulFalls southofLochinver, ofKirkaig, after atrek acrosswildmoorland.Suggestionsforotherwalkssustaintheinfinite variety By wayofcontrast,secretive isreachedEas a’ChùalAluinn,’shighestwaterfall, only oftheAssynt isnowhere district, mountaininthe heart nearasdifficultitlooks.striking coast, isanintriguingpeak,toppedbyacluster ofgranite tors. The ascentof , a point. most northwesterly ,overlooking thesmallvillageof Tongue onthenorth beautiful Sandwood Bayisthehighlightofasuperbcoastwalkto ,Scotland’s pathsleadintothemountainsandthroughglens.long-established text on p264 ), thefirstsuchreserve inBritain.Intrusive developments are few, andmany been recognised bythedesignationof Geopark(seetheboxed WestHighlands North exercise aseductive fascination.The outstandingsignificanceofthearea’s geologyhas the isolationoflong,deepglens,andmagnificenceindented coastlinecan ofanotherplanet–andunattractive.alien –part Butthevery wildnessoftherockscapes, the bare andthemaze ‘hills’,more oflochsandwaterways rockthanearth, mayseem generous share ofthewildestandmostremote coast,mountainsandglens. At firstsight, ofthecountry. the east,ismostsparselypopulated part Sutherland isgracedwitha ofScotland,beyondalinejoiningUllapoolinthewestandDornochFirthThe in north

HIGHLIGHTS This chapter focuses on a variety of walks in Sutherland’s northwest corner.This chapter focusesonavarietyofwalksinSutherland’snorthwest Incomparably

www.visithighlands.com Quinag Capturing theamazing patchworkpanoramaoflochans,hills andcrumpledcoastlinefrom Venturing deepintoarockymountainwildernesstostandatop Pottering aboutamongthebreezy pinnaclesandcrags of along thepristinebeachat Walking northwestern Cape Wrath northwestern Scotland’s highestwaterfall ( p267)

Sandwood Bay

www..info ( p261 ), enroute tothetoweringcliffs at Ben Loyal Eas a’ChùalAluinn (p262) (p265), West Sutherland walks within thenorthwest area. on13and NeilWilson, includesdetails WestNorth Highlands area extremely well. manages tocapture the scenicmagicof the T Strang,isavery authoritative read. Italso which and isjointlyauthored byDJBennet published guide, www.lonelyplanet.com No 2 walk, theOSTravel –Road1:250,000map general whileyou’re orientation onthe duringroute planning,andforFor use &Books Maps INFORMATION Coigeach Achiltibuie Northwest Rubha The Pathfinder guide, Club’sThe ScottishMountaineering Broom Loch Point of Stoer Northern ScotlandNorthern Stoer T Enard Bay Inverkirkaig H (743m) E Eddrachillis

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table information. table www.visithighlands.com) inescotland.com) able, and isavailable from TICs Transport Timetable: Sutherland of VisitScotland. try goingto thenorthwestarea,ing facilitiesthroughout such asaccommodationlistingsandbook- To accessgeneral informationon things Information Sources in theregion. provides succinctdescriptionsof 23walks Koch-Osborne, is anotheroption,which 702660; public.transport@.gov.uk) r

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VisitHighlands S h i n i h S 4 Quinag 3 Easa'ChùalAluinn 2 BenLoyal 1 SandwoodBay&CapeWrath Highland Council’s Highland , a really useful offshoot offshoot , areally useful ( Northwest –Maps % An Caisteal (765m) A838 0870 6082608;www.travel (961m)

Kyle 6miles 10km 0 0 A838

Lairg of Tongue 2

Tongue ( To Inverness(60mi) % Naver Loch Loyal Loch A836 0845 2255121; free . A836 is invalu-

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A839 NORTHWEST B871 NORTHWEST make agood fire, itonbare light sand. fragile dunes. Ifthere’s driftwoodto enough pitch withcare, steering wellclearof the and athirdback to Blairmore. your Choose Sandwood, another tothecapeandback, a much more leisurely three days:oneinto waves. Thus,youcouldspread thewalkover bythesoothing musicoflulled tosleep the in Scotland–beach camping,andbeing the chance of analmostuniqueexperience in aday,butcampingatSandwood offers from Blairmore Wrathandback toCape Alternatives which somemayfinddesolate. trek and SandwoodBay between Blairmore, Another factortoconsideristhemoorland andtowalkintothewilderness. lighthouse forlornlydeserted, although Wrath Cape fromtherelativelybetter tostart civilised, the coast.Youmayfeel, thatitis however, hoursof Wrathafter along several Cape north, arrivingatthedramaticlandmark community. Trust (see p31 ) inpartnership withthelocal is ownedandmanaged bytheJohn Muir andnearby Sandwood Bay Sandwood Loch of AnextensiveKinlochbervie. area around the crofting of settlement Blairmore, north route, exceptatitssouthernextremity in country –notasoullives anywhere nearthe coast walks.Thisisalsolonelyandremote and irresistible of thisfinestof highlights themarecoastline between theevocative the longstretch of magnificent,unspoiled most beautifulbeach inthecountry;and of the mainlandScotland;SandwoodBay, Wrath,thenorthwesternmost point Cape 258 SANDWOOD BAY &CAPEWRATH habited area ofgreat beautyandwildness. tip ofthecountry,througharemote andunin- an incomparablebeachtothenorthwestern Summary Transport Durness Nearest Towns Finish Start Difficulty Distance Duration ( p260 ) The recommended direction issouthto NORTHWEST ••SandwoodBay&CapeWrath NORTHWEST Blairmore Cape Wrath 14miles(22.5km) 6½–7 hours moderate Ifyou’re fit youcoulddothewalk bus An outstandingcoastalwalk,from ilcbri (opposite ), the relevant site. tion of whatthisisallabout andalinkto www.durness.org explana- hasadetailed posted attheDurness TICoryoucanring land besidetheroad.‘Activitydates’ are unexploded shellsmaylurkonthemoor- ammunition isfired fairlyregularly and Wrathfiringrange, wherevy’s Cape live means you’re theRoyalNa- goingthrough of this about10miles(16km).However, from the Kyle of Durnessferry, adistance Wrathwalking alongtheroadtoCape more even needing careful organisation – is 19.5miles(32km)with300mof ascent. in Durnessonthenorthcoast;distance to Sandwoodandbackinadayfrombase Wrath ting, itispossibletowalkfromCape to Loch Clash at Kinlochbervie and inland to Loch ClashatKinlochbervie Sandwood Loch and StrathShinary south Sandwood Estate in1993.Itextends from the 4650-hectareMuir Trustpurchased to localpeople 50 years later. TheJohn until the1950s.Thelandwas returned byshepherdsroofless wasused butstable), Lodge, builtduringthe19thcentury (now area repopulated Sandwood withsheep. descendants were ejected in1847andthe Sheigra tothesouth)in1820s,buttheir aroundSandwood (and north coastsettled preserved. landscape hasbeen thatwildlifenevertheless, flourishesandthe Theministryclaims, ammunition isused. for decadesasabombingrange where live by theMinistryof Defence and hasserved on themoorlandeastof thecape isowned buildings are neglected. nowsadly tomatic equipment;theonce-handsome 1997, whenpeoplewere replaced byau- Stevenson in1828.Thelastkeepers leftby atthecapebyRobert andAlan lighthouse recognised andled tothebuildingof the often aroundhere were stormyseas long the9thand13thcenturies. tween their incursions inthenorthandwestbe- a cruciallandmarkfortheVikingsduring word for‘turningpoint’–itwasclearly Wrath’snamecomesfrom theNorse Cape HISTORY % There one isyet anotheroption,although In midsummer,andtransportpermit- People fromtheirlandsonthe evicted peaceably,partofLess the Balnakeil Estate The hazardsinvolved innavigating the 0800 833 300 for details. Thewebsite0800 833300fordetails. www.lonelyplanet.com a specialcommittee. tion of localcrofting communitiesthrough management of istheparticipa- theestate tothe for upto6miles(10km).Essential www.lonelyplanet.com a trowel(there are no toilets)andabagto afuel stoveBay, isanabsolute must,asare If you’re planningtocampatSandwood What toBring PLANNING bell flower,vetch, andorchid. knapweed June andAugustwithcarpetsof globeflower, the Western Isles,comesalive late between tively few placesalongthewestcoastandin Interest. Themachair, foundonlyinrela- protected intwoSites of SpecialScientific John MuirTrust’sSandwoodEstate) are Sheigra and (allwithinthe Sheigra, andthedunesmachair between grasslands)fromSandwoodto air (coastal behind byretreating glaciers. platformswereperched on sandstone left ing theriver valleys;large gneissboulders ciers andicesheets lefttheirmarkinsculpt- inmainlandScotland,at284m.Gla- cliffs areKervaig, reputedly coastal thehighest ofheight about120m.Afew mileseast,at Wraththered soartoa Cape gneisscliffs gneiss, themostwidespread rocktype. At mixeddominantly sandstone, intoancient and theoffshore andisletsare stacks pre- inlets (geos) deep Along thecoast,cliffs, ENVIRONMENT The peatlands, sand dunesandmach- The peatlands,sand a dometent withfourbrown legs,moving athighspeedthrough theSandwood dunes. someone didn’tarrive with acamera,orpreferably thesightof avideorecorder, toimmortalise again ranforthebeach, seeingthewaythroughtent’s cream panels. Ouronlyregret wasthat itup,and oncelying inaheaponthe sand.So,wepulledoutthepegs,crawled insideandpicked expansesofbareand itsmidge-free sand.Allthatremained wasthedometent, itsinneralready gearwasfranticallystuffedunpacked intoourpacksandweranacrossthedunes tothebeach us –even intoourmouths. were reduced swarmedupon tofutile,flailinganguishastheblackcloudsofvoraciousinsects uscoolonthatwarmJuly dayhaddied.Welitthestovekept forabrew but,withinaminute, We returnedto Cape Wrathandback. tothetent intheearlyevening andthebreeze thathad where theylived. camping inScotlandduringsummer–we’dheardabout midges buthadn’tmuchideaabout where Butwewere adipafter wecouldalsotake awarmday’swalk. stillpretty naive about The shore ofSandwoodLochseemedanidylliccampsite –rightbesideafreshwater supply, WHERE NOT TOCAMP Clearly, cooking amealwouldbeimpossible, soinstantrelocation wastheonlyanswer.Clearly, cooking Allthe So wepitchedthetent up besidethetranquil,reed-fringed lochthenspentthedaywalking Sandra Bardwell NORTHWEST ••SandwoodBay&CapeWrath NORTHWEST lage centre. placeinthevil- friendly, long-established rooms lookoutacrossLoch Inchard. an adjacentmodernbuilding,where some for nearlyacentury.Accommodationisin thelocalcommunity school thatserved rness ( p260 ). TIC, campinggroundandhostel are inDu- the sheltered harbour. Thenearest ATM, is dominated bylarge portfacilitiesaround Principally afishingvillage, Kinlochbervie % Kinlochbervie TOWNS NEAREST Cape Wrath 1:50,000mapNo9 and theOSLandranger 1:25,000 mapNo446 The walkiscovered bytheOSExplorer Maps wood Estate themanagerinformation, contact of they’re midge havens insummer. Formore to thelimited suppliesof freshwater but ers willbehandy;somecampsites are close carry outallyourrubbish. Water contain- the estate duringJuneandJuly the estate able tofillyouinonguidedwalksaround £9-18; www.oldschoolhotel.co.uk; Inshegra;s/d£40/70,mains hotel.com; s/d£55/90,mains£9-17; Old School Restaurant &Rooms Old SchoolRestaurant Kinlochbervie Hotel Kinlochbervie Braeside B&B 01971 h dinner)

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NORTHWEST NORTHWEST 260 Chailleach Am Bodach Buachaille Sandwood Bay&CapeWrath Am A' Wrath NORTHWEST ••SandwoodBay&CapeWrath NORTHWEST Cape an Fhraochaidh Geodha Cul FINISH 50m ContourInterval ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ Bay ofKeisgaig 163m Geodha Ruadh Sandwood Sheigra Mhuilinn Loch a' 100 Bay A TLNIC

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250 150 unpowered/powered sitesfor2£10/13) There &AwayforDurness( below ). other things. small Sparsupermarket, maps,among sells are butplentiful. bog-standard ing ground,isusuallybusy;thebar meals road besidethecollectionof fluttering flags. about 1mileeastof thevillage onthemain Sango Sands Camping Site Sango SandsCamping SLEEPING &EATING h Britain. to beingthemostnorthwesterly village in the coast, claimDurness laysunbeatable A surprisinglylarge, spread-out village on % Durness put together restaurant menu. of thethoughtfully isahighlight seafood road, justnorthof thevillage. Fresh local occupies ascenicpositionontheSheigra Tim DearmanCoaches THERE &AWAYGETTING village;mains£5-9; craft nakeil .co.uk; s/d £27/50) village store. ground information.There’s anATM atthe mainly traditionaldishes. freshly prepared,homely placeserving barely 1milewestof town,isarefreshingly rooms andalarge lounge facingthesea. of thevillage, appointed haspleasantly pitches and uninterrupted oceanviews. and besidethemainroad,hasplentyof grassy dearmancoaches.co.uk) h .syha.org.uk; Smoo;dm £12) posite theTIC. There’s alsoMather’s grocers op- licensed camping gasandliquidfuelfor stoves. www.durness.org mapsandbooks.Thelocalwebsitesells display aboutlocalplacesof interest and eastern end of asmall thevillage andhouses For transport information see Getting For transportinformationsee The LochanB&B Corrie The Stores Bervie Sango SandsOasis Shop BistroandCraft Balnakeil Durness SYHAHostel daily Jun-Sep, Mon-Sat Apr, May &Oct) Mon-SatApr,May daily Jun-Sep, 01971 /pop363 lunch &dinnerto7.30pm) Spar TIC

( ( h % , afew hundred metres south

( Mon-Sat) 511259; www.visithighlands.com; h runs a seasonal service service runsa seasonal

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h 01349 883585; www.tim ( % 511222; mains£7-9; 0870 0041113;www lunch &dinner; 511761; Sangomore; 511761; Sangomore; , near the TIC , neartheTIC

( % isatthe 511232; Bal- i , a ) , Kinlochbervie hours) viaLochinver, Inchnadamph and Invernessbetween andDurness(£18,five www.lonelyplanet.com walled enclosures is apossiblecamp site. of thebeach at Sandwood Bay. thefirst glimpse todescend, affording starts hillontheleftandround asteep-sided built byJohn MuirTrustvolunteers) curves ther on,thepath(much of itrepaired and a’ Mhuilinn.Littlemore than1milefur- nearby lochs. Itbecomesa path at Loch moorland, which isenlivened by several leadsacrosstherather featurelesssheep, bycroftersThis road,used tending their roadsignposted toSandwood. the unsealed From theBlairmore outalong carpark,set THE WALK September). to dailyEaster 40 minutes, aroundeight western shore of the Kyleof Durness(£5, fromtheferry jettyonthe the lighthouse roadto bounces itswayalongtherough waiting foryou. operators inadvancetoensure theyare besure theferryBay, tocontact andbus If youare walkingnorthfromSandwood From theFinish lic toilets,acarparkandpublictelephone. There(5.4km) fromKinlochbervie. are pub- road,3.4miles the Kinlochbervie–Sheigra at The walkstarts Blairmore, ahamleton To theStart TO/FROMTHEWALK GETTING A838 about2milessouthof Durness. end of aminorroad,which branches the off atthe toSeptember), daily,Easter sailings at Keoldale (£3,10minutes, aroundeight theKyletojetty minibus andcrosses from TICs. Transport Timetable: Sutherland given Council’s intheHighland fore toarrange are apick-up.Fulldetails from) Blairmore be- theevening (£1).Call Tuesday andSaturday)cantake youto(and area (dailyexcept ing intheKinlochbervie August. inJulyand ber, andtheSundayservice operates late Apriltolate Septem- service A flat, grassed areaA flat, grassed withold,stone- Kyle ofDurnessferry The A subsidised Cape Wrathminibusservice Cape . TheMonday-to-Saturday taxi service

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, available meets themeets ( % operat- Public 511343) NORTHWEST ••SandwoodBay&CapeWrath NORTHWEST stream crossing (north of Dùnan Beag), a stream crossing(north of DùnanBeag), head backtowards thecliffs. to asmallstream junction; crossover and reaches liningtheseaward of theburn cliffs Detourinland(northeast)aroundthe Beag. named burnimmediately southof Dùnan to thetopof thenextdescenttoun- across bare, stonygroundfor1mileorso, odha Cul an odha Cul in the superbvertical, dark-pink cliffs west of Sithean nah-Iolaireich tooverlook climb upthevery steepslope. acourse Steer coursing downontotheshinglebeach and if youwanttocamp. There’sBay). spaceforatent ortwonearby worse forwear(2¼hours fromSandwood stoneshelter, somewhattheturf-roofed sullen face. Justabove theriver isalow, of thebay,itsprofile resembling arather onthenorthernside markable rockstack River Keisgaig Ruadh anduppastthenexthill. edge, acrossadipabovethe cliff Geodha side. KeepRuaidh onitsseaward to close to skirtthesteep-sided Cnoc a’Gheodha for about 500mthenturngenerally north cades andfollowthespurleadingnortheast to Strath Chailleach. edge to ashallowvalley,thenalongthecliff the jumbleof rockslabsandboulders down a patch of grassandmake yourwaythrough Cross agapinthelowcliffs. ahead, through slope sandy stones andgoupthesteep, outlet fromSandwoodLoch onstepping west fromthesands. thatextend south- tothecliffs guard close ofering rockstack Am Buachaille stands (about 1¾hours Thetow- fromthestart). Bay dunestothebeachgrassed at the boxed text on p259 ). idyllic campsite butbeware themidges (see shore of like SandwoodLoch an mayseem brackish. The itmaybeslightly although downtopeat-dark right Sandwood Loch, you’llhaveto thesouth;otherwise togo burn neartheroofless cottage about200m Water should be available fromthesmall There’s apotential campsite atthenext tops,mainlyContinue alongthecliff Cross theriver justabove thecascade At thetopof thelongslopedown tothe Cross thestream atthetopof thecas- Walk northalongthebeach, crossthe marram- The pathleadsdownthrough , a superb sweep of, asuperbsweep pinkish-cream sand

Fhraochaidh , there’s a goodviewof are- . Sandwood 261 Ge-

NORTHWEST NORTHWEST ite), Ben Loyal stands alone inanarea Loyalstands com- ite), Ben and Sgòr Fhionnaich. above thewestern crags– Sgòr a’Chleirich Tionail (716m). There are alsotwo outliers 765m), Bheag (744m)and Beinn an Carn a’ Bhatain (708m), (‘thecastle’; An Caisteal Loyal: Ben (712m), Sgòr Chaonasaid Sgòr ite tors, five summitsmake separate up summit ridge, crownedbyclusters of gran- title anddesignation. climbing foritsownsake, irrespective of its iswellworth themountain bett. However, summit, of hasthestatus An Caisteal, Cor- Loyal’s the north.At765m(2509ft),Ben looks the andthecoastto western flankmajestically over-cliff-lined late moorland tothesouth,itsspectacular, proudlyaloneaboveStanding ratherdeso- afinepeak. male, letaloneroyal,itisindeed shouldbefemalemountain ratherthan ulgated. Whether ornotyouthinkany –wheremountain’ lawswere onceprom- but fromtheNorse Loyal comesnotfromsomedutifulsubject tish Peaks’. thatthenameBen It’sthought Loyalisoften of calledthe‘Queen Ben Scot- from theKeisgaig River). and theendof thewalk(about2½hours reach thecourtyardinfrontof the ings, which are to nowforlornly deserted, Skirt thewalledenclosure aroundthebuild- to thecliffs. keeping close the lighthouse, isvisible. Bay (south) fromhere onaclearday,Sandwood aphotostop.Ifyoulookback man’) dictate and Am Bodach (the‘oldwoman’and two remarkable rockstacks A’ Chailleach inland.Abitfurtheron,the short distance 262 BEN LOYAL with fineviewsinalldirections. attractive andintriguingpeaksinthenorth, Summary Transport Nearest Town Start/Finish Difficulty Distance Duration Consisting of granite (specifically syen- With alongish,gracefullyundulating Continue acrossasmallburntowards NORTHWEST ••BenLoyal NORTHWEST 8miles(13km) 6–6½ hours moderate private A steep climbtooneofthemost Ribigill access road oge (right) Tongue laga fjall meaning‘law lighthouse

and finepanoramicviews. Kyle of Tongue,hasup-to-date facilities .co.uk; s/d£37/54) village. cottage.a traditionalHighland .org.uk; dm£12) % Tongue TOWN NEAREST 10 Loyal The OSExplorer 1:25,000mapNo447 Map pening is number tophonefindoutwhat’shap- are placeonaparticularday.The taking to avoid areas where activities stalking August tomid-October, walkers are asked frommid- season, During thestalking Stalking PLANNING The walkinvolves 750mof ascent. corries onthewestern faceof themountain. downintotherugged summits andpeering could spendtimeexploringtheindividual much easier. Having gainedthesummit,you where up ontothemountain, thegoingis discontinuousmoorlandpathsrough, lead lage of Tonguetothenorth.Farm tracksand of which istreeless. slopes isalsounusualinthenorth,somuch The beltof birch trees fringingthewestern principallyofposed schist andsandstone. Tongue SYHAHostel SLEEPING &EATING here nothave does anATM. overlooked Loyal.Theonebank byBen of nowhere, dramatically thevillage isitself inthemiddle Kyle of Tongue. Seemingly A scattered village, Tongue overlooks the entation ofentation vegetables. the treatment of traditionaldishesandpres- more imaginative thanmany,especially in mands fine,wideviews,andthe menuis s/d £50/70,mains£6-16; noon-2pm Sun) Office Rhian GuestHouse Rhian Ben LoyalHotel The mostpopularapproach isfromthevil- For supplies,there’s 01847

and OS Landranger 1:50,000mapNo and OSLandranger ( h % Mon-Sat) atthe northern endof the , near the causeway acrossthe , nearthecauseway 01847 611291. is justsouthof thevillage in cover thewalk.

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( ( % % h 611216; www.benloyal.co.uk; 0870 0041153;www.syha Burr’s Stores www.lonelyplanet.com 611257; www.rhiancottage lunch &dinner) Tongue Stores &Post Tongue Stores

( h com- daily, Ben ment, scrambling around thesmalltors on Herefrom the start). there’s good entertain- .com) www.firstscotrail.com) mid-morning theTongue bypublictransport.Catch tobereallyYou need dedicated toreach THERE&AWAYGETTING www.lonelyplanet.com path goes northto path goes northwest upto the mainridge, where a na Creige Riabhaich. Continuegenerally to thewide,shallowvalleycradling Loch makingyourwayup ground bythecliffs, slope.up thesteep Trytoavoid thewettest walkersfades; evidently take variousways cluster of Again low, broken cliffs. thepath the morassinbealach (pass),towardsa (west),aboveup theslopeonyourright Afairlyclearpathleads Clais nanCeap. up tothebroadgapinridge, Bealach Cross thisstream after awhileandcontinue land slopewithasmallstream ontheleft. upthegrassy steeply moor-to gainheight along anarrowbank.Itfadesasyoustart Loyal’s northernslopes,apathleadssouth built Cunsidecottage, atthefootof Ben Malmsgaig. Justbefore youreach stone- Stepping stones take youacross Allt Lòn land, where there are patches. someboggy acrossthemoor-track isclearenough andcontinuesouth.The track totheright tocrossthelowspur,ignorestarts another Loyal.As thetrack farm tracktowardsBen onalongaon theleft,continuestraight a bendwithlarge derelict stonecottage the first fork(after about650m)then,on leftat south alongtheprivate road.Bear From theturn-off toRibigillFarm head THE WALK limited roadsideparking. ‘Ribigill’ onthefarmgate), where there is the entrancetoRibigillFarm (there’s asign south fromTonguealongaminorroadto You canwalkordrive the3miles(5km) TO/FROMTHEWALK GETTING Postbus Thurso (£15,fourhours) then Thurso andLairg. A838 fromDurnessandtheA836 time inThurso. connection necessitates doublethewaiting hours) about1½hours later. Thereturn By road, TongueisatthejunctionofBy road, the 136fromthere toTongue(£4,1¼

( % 0845 7740740;www.postbus.royalmail First ScotRail trainfromInverness to Sgòr

Chaonasaid

( % 0845 7550033; (2½ hours Royal Mail Royal Mail (26.5mi) To Durness

Ben Loyal 300 (568m) Fhionnaich Sgòr Fhionnaich

Lochan 50 400

100 na Cuilce (644m) Chleirich Sgòr a Lochan Allt Lòn Bhatain 50m ContourInterval Sgòr a' (708m) Hakel Lochan

B ••BenLoyal NORTHWEST

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700 1:70,000 (124m) (765m) An Caisteal

600

100 200

500 Ribigill

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300 50 Riabhaich Creige Loch na START/ FINISH 400 Rhian Tongue Intermittent

Burn Hostel Tongue SYHA

Path

300 50

nan Ceap nan Bealach Clais Bealach To Thurso A836 (43mi) Ben Hiel

(534m)

To 100 (38mi) Craisg

Loch 350

263

450

150 NORTHWEST NORTHWEST though it’sactuallyeastofthough thatdivide).To for practicalpurposes, More Assynt,Ben of Uidhe, Beinn and Breabag (and, the eastern limitrunsalongthewatershed sions Lochs GlendhuandGlencoul,while A’ ChairnBhain anditseastwardexten- northwest. Itsnorthernboundaryis Loch tinct geographical andculturalarea inthe mountain-building Norsegods,isadis- Assynt, thelegendary practicegroundfor ASSYNT mit of way uptothewell-madecairnonsum- wherecliff, arockyrampprovides aneasy Sgòr a’Bhatain uptoalow thengosteeply pastthetwinknobs ofous. Gainheight ground –thepathismore orlesscontinu- continue alongit,keeping tothehighest Tongue andtheKyleof Tongue. the summittofindbestoutlookacross 264 very different outlookontheway. simply retrace yoursteps –appreciating the steal. Toreturn toRibigillandTongue,you down intotherugged corriebelowAnCai- Bheag,of forviews thenextsummit,Beinn here –youcould walktothewestern side to thepeaksof Assynt. beyondDurnessandsouth towering cliffs as fareastDuncansbyHead, westtothe Retrace yoursteps downtheridge and There isapathsouthalongtheridge from throughout thepark. sandstone (Quinag, Cape Wrath) andisolated exposures oflimestone (Durness). the parkare vastmassifs ofthemostancient ofrocks, Lewisian gneiss,clumpsof Torridonian the titanicwestwardmovement ofrockssoonafter the coalescenceoftheBritishlandmass. Within to The latter boundaryfollowsthelineof Knockan. Moine Thrust, ageological feature marking linefromjusteastof coast, andfromthewestcoasttoaragged northeast–southwest Loch Eriboll ing sustainabledevelopment. central governments) committed tocelebratingtheirdistinctive geological heritageandtoachiev- -geopark.org.uk; CulagBldg,Lochinver) -geopark.org.uk; tablished in2004,the bothare fairlythinontheground. and settlement.Butinthenorthwest, basic shapeofthelandscapeeverywhere ofcourse,butmostlythey’re blanketed byvegetation cornerofScotlandisanopen-airgeologicalThe display northwest ROCKS OFALLAGES .europeangeoparks.org) ASSYNT••Planning By thetimeyouread this,several informationpanelsshould have sites beeninstalledatkey Geoparkextends fromtheSummer Isles inthesouthtonorth WestHighlands The North Therefore thearea Es- wasanobviouscandidate forScotland’s(andBritain’s) firstGeopark. An Caisteal . On a clear day you can see . Onacleardayyoucansee , endorsedbyUnesco. Allare coalitions oflocalcommunities(ratherthan North WestHighlandsGeopark North joined 25 partners ofthe joined25partners the photographs. (see estate p271 ), it’sworthhaving justfor itrelateswritten. Though specificallytothe Bangor-Jones isbeautifullyillustrated and to the Land interested ingeology, thisisamust-have. routes are outlined.Ifyou’re particularly walks anda1:50,000maponwhich the asmallguidebookdescribing10 comprises Survey, by theOSandBritishGeological Landscape of Assynt &Inverpolly Walker’s Guide&Map Showing Rocks& No 15 Lochinver OS Explorer 1:25,000mapNo442 areBoth walksinthissection covered bythe &Books Maps PLANNING beautiful walkers’ heartland. rock andwater, afascinatingandwildly thearea’ssummarise uniquelandscapeof and out’fromtheancientGaelic–neatly Assynt wordor‘in –‘rocky’fromaNorse boundary. Thetwopossiblemeaningsof trict of Coigach. Thecoastformsitswestern River Assynt Kirkaigseparate fromthedis- the south, Loch Veyatie, Fionn Loch andthe amph Lodge The Assynt at based FieldCentre, Guided Walks Little Assynt Estate: Connecting People the Landscape ofExploring Assynt: A

( % European Geoparks Network 01571 844000;www.northwest-highlands and OS Landranger 1:50,000map andOSLandranger

( byRobinNobleandMalcolm % par excellence 01571 822218; . www.lonelyplanet.com . Rocksdefinethe

www.inch-lodge.co.uk; , published Assynt &

Inchnad- (www unpowered/powered sitesfor2£6/8) h tion ofBirds resentative of the of guidedwalksinsummer. TheAssynt rep- bank near theport. bank near prominently available. There’s anATM atthe for awetday.Thedailyweatherforecast is and anatural-historyreading room,ideal class displaysabout localhistoryandwildlife, excellent range of booksabout thearea, first- available insummer. small shop;fishandchips andthelike are ontheshore.space fortents right There’s a cally caught fish.The cally caught have inlo- posted home)andspecialises fruit pies(which youcantake awayoreven in Lochinver. It’sfamous foritssavoury and £10-20; from nearby Highland Stoneware.from nearbyHighland of onasplendidselection crockery is served isp peaks.Breakfast isbetter thanmost,and a spellbindingviewof theSuilven andCan- road onthenorthsideof Loch Inver, enjoys ( Inchnadamph) www.lonelyplanet.com Shore Camping and Caravan Site andCaravan Camping Shore SLEEPING &EATING mapsandbooks newsagency sells St; .info; Main the lively touristindustryinAssynt. nally afishingvillage itisnowthecentre of tered upperreaches of Loch Inver; origi- Lochinver isasizable village ontheshel- % Lochinver TOWNS ACCESS be aspeacefultheycome. the beautifulwhite beach, sandy andcan few milesnorthwestof to town. It’sclose in thebeach-side hamletof Achmelvich a in nearbywoodlands. you’ll findthelocal on localgeology andwildlife. and light meals. and light venison regarded, andcranberry ishighly 66 Baddidarrach;s/d Hostel Hostel % The nearest hostel is Riverside Restaurant Riverside The Veyatie B&B Assynt ( Visitor Centre below ) iswhere lunch &dinner) 01571 01571 844654) h ( % Assynt Visitor Centre Centre Visitor Assynt dinner) 0870 0041102;www.syha.org.uk; dm£12) h , runsguidedwalksandcourses

( %

( Mon-Sat Apr-May, dailyJun-Oct) Mon-Sat Apr-May, % also serves thepies,of which alsoserves isthecelebrated placetoeat

, wholeadavariedprogram £38/56) 01571 844374) 844424; www.veyatie-scotland.co.uk; 844424; www.veyatie-scotland.co.uk; Royal SocietyfortheProtec- Inverbank , atthevery endof the

Highland Councilrangers Highland Conservatory ( % AchmelvichBeachSYHA

( % 844356; Main St;mains 844356; Main alsorunswalks

hasplentyof 844330; www.assynt ( h

Mon-Sat; .

(mains £6-10; ( % has an hasan 844393; i ) ,

Sat) cer. Thesmaller Sunday service AprilandMay) Sunday service three no hours, dailyJulytoSeptember, stopsatLochinver (£14, Durness service 800m along the Baddidarrach road. 800m alongtheBaddidarrach -lodge.co.uk; dm/s/d£14/25/40) 883585; www.timdearmancoaches.co.uk) £9-15; www.timdearmancoaches.co.uk) Ledmore junction. themselves besidetheA837northof the and ahandfulof situated allby houses, Inchnadamph issimplyahotel, bunkhouse Inchnadamph A894. The west of theSkiagBridge junction with the Lochinver isontheA837,10miles(16km) THERE&AWAYGETTING sells groceries, frozen food, beer andwine. groceries,frozenfood,beer sells cooking. There’s asmallshopnearbythat dorms ordoubles,youcandoyourown is overflowing. the bestalternative ifyoufindtheRiverside platter, andis meals, includingaseafood force of the Falls of Glomach ( p179 ) butthe dramatic It maylackthesheer at thebase. in three long streams withabroadcascade in Scotland,with adropof 204m,mostof it ful slenderwaterfall’) waterfall isthe highest a’ChùalAluinn(which means‘beauti- Eas on request. will pickupanddropoff atInchnadamph AprilandMay) tember, noSundayservice (£13,2½hours, dailyJulytoSep- service EAS A’CHÙALALUINNEAS the wildestcornersofSutherland. inScotland,oneof of thehighestwaterfall Summary Transport Nearest Town Start/Finish Difficulty Distance Duration Caberfeidh Restaurant Caberfeidh Inchnadamph Lodge The Along themainstreet isa supermarket andabutcher-greengro- h Tim Dearman Coaches ASSYNT ••Easa’ChùalAluinn lunch &dinner) 10.4miles(16.7km) 5¾–6¼ hours moderate A ruggedlyscenicwalktothetop LochnaGainmhichcarpark Tim Dearman Coaches Inver Stores Stores Inver bus (left) Lochinver

( serves standard bar standard serves %

( % Inverness–Durness offers B&Binsmall 01571 822218;www.inch 844321; Main St;mains 844321; Main (

h ( % Spar daily) Inverness– .

01349 883585;

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Mon- 265 NORTHWEST NORTHWEST derness, to Inchnadamph andmostlyon route, intothewil- road. Athrough deeper scribed asanout-and-back tripfromthe points forthefalls.Themainwalkisde- outbetter vantage topsandseeking cliff could spendanhourormore exploringthe inplaces.Onafinedayyou that isboggy rockyground well-trodden, acrossrough, by thefall’sspray. permanentlydampened clings tothecliffs, almosttreeless area,otherwise spindlybirch Abhainn anLoch Bhig. Miraculously,inan risingfrom ness inthelonglineof cliffs empty southinto Loch Assynt. apool Burnandfromthemanystreams that fromnorth-flowingside, theridge rises Un- Bhig inthenorthandeast.Onwestern anditstributary Loch Beag Abhainn anLoch itously fromtheshores of Loch Glencouland andscree,encrusted risingprecip- withcliffs rocky ridge, pockmarked withlochans and compelling anddesolate way. iswildandbeautifulinastrangelysetting 266 (8.7mi) To Lochinver Eas a'ChùalAluinn The pathtothefallsfromA894is a’ChùalAluinnspillsoverEas aweak- thewalkisacrossingof Essentially, the ASSYNT••Easa’ChùalAluinn A837

L 250 450 O 300

400 C 350 H Unapool START/ FINISH

300 200 A894

150 A Achmore

100 S

Bridge

Inchnadamph Hostel 250 300

Skiag Burn

S Farm

To Ullapool Y

Inchnadamph N

(22.5mi) T Gainmhich

Loch na (25.4mi) To Durness FINISH (Alt) 400 Allt LochBealach

a' Bhuirich

A837 650

300 500

Glas Bheinn (776m) 350 Loch Bealach

na h–Uidhe 150 a' Bhuirich

Bealach

500 250 Loch Side Trip

200 150

River

400 Traligill Allt Glenbain Bealach na

h-Uidhe 500

Poll 250

Beag

an Loch

650

350 Droighinn 450

tive walk. through thealterna-adamph ifyoudecidetotackle stopsatInchn- service the walk.Thesame shouldgivetable youplentyof timetodo as safely possibletothecarpark;time- (see Durness service p260 ) willstopasclose The Tim DearmanCoaches Inverness– western cornerof Loch naGainmhich. a sharpbendintheA894,above thenorth- atasignposted carparkon The walkstarts TO/FROMTHEWALK GETTING available from recommended walkingroutes inthearea is main paths. Informationaboutactivitiesand accessremainsday, although openonthe areas where placeonthe istaking stalking mid-October) walkers are asked toavoid (mid-August season During thestalking to Stalking PLANNING fineviews. a peakaffording fort toduckup Glas Bheinn ( opposite ), While you’re there it’swellworththeef- clear paths isoutlinedasanalternative. Beinn Uidhe Dhubh Leitir

Coire Fleodach Loch 350 400 (740m)

Alternative 600

Aluinn l u o C n e l G Eas a' Chùal

550 Route

A

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650 h

a

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400 n a

750 n

Beinn an

Fhurain L

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700 Estates Assynt 400

600 500

500 2km 1mile 0 0 www.lonelyplanet.com

450 600 400

(

350 %

391m 700

01571 822208)

500

600 750

300 . main road. and overlooked onitsfarside. bycliffs Bhig, meandering intotranquilLoch Beag green, flat-floored glenof Abhainn anLoch of A series graceful,steep cascadesfalltothe impossible tosafely view. get agoodclose-up a’Bhuirich) from Loch–it’snextto Bealach tage pointfor (southeast) forabout250mtoagoodvan- Abhainn anLoch Bhig. Continuetotheright to neartheedge above high of themaincliff, alineofanddown ground, through lowcliffs shown ontheOSmap).Goacrossvery peaty downstream (notonthenorthernsideas on stepping stonesandcontinuebesideit of Abhainn anLoch Bhig. Crosstheburn downtoanamelesstributary losing height above theloch totheeast. is hours Thebealach itself fromthestart). to dark,peaceful on thenorthfaceof GlasBheinn, andon rocky valley,withfineviewsof thecorries left. Walkupthenorthernsideof arugged, anarrowpathonthe north brieflytomeet a’Bhuirich. Cross andcontinueBealach a smallstream andleadingonto Allt Loch northeast,crossing torise 150m thenstarts the shore of Loch naGainmhich forabout turn left.Thepathdescendstoandparallels stream aneast–westpath; tomeet thenrises asmall an oldtracktotheleft.Itcrosses road forabout 200manddiverge down From thecarparkwalksouthalong THE WALK www.lonelyplanet.com of scree-strewn thesteep, slopes.The path and continue uptoarock shelf atthebase cross astream onmossystepping stones turninthepath,then to findaright-hand on theground,is sparsely cairned.Take care ahead (south).Thepath,clearenough cliffs wild, rockyglenfeeding themtowardsthe lochans thenupthe these and gobetween chans. atacairnedpathjunction Turn right tooverlookrather deviously a pair of lo- ashallowIt crosses valleyandcontinues southeastthensouthuparocky spur.rises inaverymaterialises and short distance one toppedwithacairn),turnleft.Apath twocrags(theleft in apeatyspotbetween Return almosttothestepping stonesand, 3½–4 hours,5.5miles(8.7km) ALTERNATIVE ROUTE:TO INCHNADAMPH Retrace yoursteps tothecarparkand The path,nowcairned,wastes notimein Eas a’ChùalAluinn Loch Bealach

a’ Bhuirich (1¼hours (1¼ shaped mountain barricadedby terracedshaped mountain Gaelic for ‘milkingpail’) isauniquelyY- Quinag (pronounced ‘koon-yak’,fromthe Wyvis, notfarfromInverness. view east,onagoodday,extends toBen andthe tothenorthcanbeseen mountains and are trulyawe-inspiring.Allthe on over shattered cairn rocktothe2m-high here, pastatinylochan ontheleft,thenup theplateau.from Descendslightly bisecting line grass, toasubsidiarytoponlowcliff of apathbutit’seasywalking,mainlyon broad summitplateau. There isn’tmuch some boulders onthenarrowridge tothe head westupover grassthenscree and From alarge cairnat nah-Uidhe, Bealach 1–1¼ hours,2miles(3km),150mascent SIDE TRIP: GLAS BHEINN to twohours fromthebealach). walk downtotheInchnadamph carpark(1¾ vehicle tracknearabridge. and Turnright theGleannDubh andontomeet Droighinn graded descentintotheglenof Allt Pollan by stalkers. Fromhere thepathmakes awell- junction where there’s astoneshelter, used spur, pastasmalllochan andontoapath amazeof through peathagsuptoabroad burn flowingfromtheloch. Make yourway two burnsentering theloch thencrossthe and intermittently cairned.Continueacross Fleodach Coire, becomingincreasingly clear a rockyshoulder thensouthdownto Loch the left,pathbendsleft(southeast)across On theedge of thescree onthesteep slopeto over thecountrytosouth. hours fromthewaterfall), afinelookout zigzags upto QUINAG wraparound views. Assynt’s magnificentpeaks,andthesuperb can explore oneofthemore formidableof Summary Transport Nearest Town Start/Finish Difficulty Distance Duration The path drops straight down from the gap. downfromthegap. The pathdropsstraight Glas Bheinn 4¼–4½ hours moderate–demanding private Enjoy theeasewithwhichyou Cnoca’Choilichcarpark (776m).Theviewsof Quinag Bealach nah-Uidhe ohne (p265) Lochinver 6.5 miles(10.4km) ASSYNT ••Quinag (1¾totwo

267 NORTHWEST NORTHWEST the high groundarethe high amplereward: long fromvertigo.if yousuffer Theviewsfrom ertheless, soconsideryourroute carefully Theredifficulties. are afew airyplacesnev- upper reaches don’tpresent anyserious ern spuryieldseasilyandtherest of the the summits.Fortunately, thesoutheast- a minormiraclewalkers canreach anyof slopesthatit’salmost allthemountain’s are the north.Sosteep andcliff-bound eastern arm and Sàil Ghorm(776m)to from Sàil Gharbh(808m)onthe north- bydeep Y, separated a’Chornaidh Bealach Coinich (764m)onthesouthernlegof the the south.Ithasthree distincttops: Spidean Glencoul tothenorthand Loch Assynt to andoverlooking cliffs sandstone Loch 268 To Lochinver(7mi) Quinag

ASSYNT••Quinag

400 500 Ghorm (776m)

700 Sàil L o c h A s s y n t n y s s A h c o L 600

Quinag 500 Chornaidh Bealach a' Spidean Coinich

(764m)

Lochan Ruadh 200

700 400

A837 300

400 500

Sàil Gharbh 600

500 (808m)

600 700 600 Cornaidh Bealach Lochan To SkiagBridge (0.25mi); Creag Mhór

400 Ullapool (27mi)

300 Muir Trust’s( p31 ) portfolioof estates in dle of Loch Assynt, were addedtotheJohn shores of Loch Glencoulsouthtothemid- ready have climbed. ascent ontopof the860myouwouldal- hour of walking,andabout140mof extra anextra1.9miles(3km),moretail thanan the three summits–SailGhormwoulden- black andwhite. to spotwiththeircamouflage suitsof grey- remarkably fearless difficult birdsthough a luck youmayalsomeet ortwo, ptarmigan tinctive peakswestof themainroad.With Glencoul, More AssyntBen andallthedis- swathes of coastline,tinysettlements, Loch Quinag anditssurrounds,fromthe The route describedhere twoof crosses

200 50m ContourInterval Loch nan To Durness(35mi)

Eun Allt Sgiathaig Allt 1:50,000

Unapool START/ Choilich FINISH Cnoc a'

Burn 1km 0.5miles 0 0 www.lonelyplanet.com

Ullapool (27mi) To SkiagBridge (0.25mi); 200

A894

Gainmhich

300 400 Loch na

500

600 700 www.lonelyplanet.com by a standard blue parkingsign. by astandard the A837 Lochinver road; itisnotmarked road, 2.3milesnorth of thejunctionwith eastern sideof theA894Ullapool–Durness andfinishisonthe The carparkatthe start TO/FROM THEWALK GETTING estate. the involve localpeopleinthe management of ianship. Inturn,theTrusthaspledged to nation –inabidtoensure itsfuture guard- with thecrucialhelpof ahuge private do- press wishof itsprevious owners –and attheex- was purchased 2005. Theestate your steps tothebookshop. points acrosstheimpressive cascades feeding thefalls,whichplungeintoawidepool.Retrace Soon thepathforks;bearrightwithsigntoFalls Descendtoinformalvantage ofKirkaig. tocrossmoorland.After awhilethedomeandpinnaclesofSuilvenswings northeast appear. on,in spring. togainheightand,15minutes About12minutes further out,thepathstarts along apaththroughmature birchwood,carpeted withprimroses,violetsandwoodanemones memory ofthepoetandlover ofallthingsinAssynt, Norman MacCaig. Within200m,bearright OS Landranger1:50,000mapNo15. road toAchiltibuie. Allowtwohoursforthewalk,whichinvolves 200mofascent,andconsult edge ofthehamlet 2.5milessouthofLochinver ( Inverkirkaig, p265 ) onthenarrow,winding nowhere, door. andahomespun,popularcafénext through dunesandacrossgrassyfields,backtothebeachcarpark. loop backtothebeachorheadacrossroadthatleadsdefence site andfollowit cliffs atFaraid Head,muchfrequented byfulmars,gullsandotherseabirds. Forthereturn, either toalowpoint.Turnthe edge,northwest eastandclimbtoavantagepointforfineviewsofthe across thesand;gainlowclifftopandwalkalongsheep-croppedgrass,generallycloseto viewsofFaraidfor close-up Head.Ifthetideisout,sticktobeachasfarbouldersspread Diverge endofthebeachandfollowitnorth. wherepick uparoadatthenorthern itturnseast go towww.durness.org). of Faraid Headsoaccesstotheheaditselfisoutofbounds(formore informationaboutaccess, The relevant OSLandranger1:50,000mapisNo9.Adefence establishmentmonopolises thetop the beach,about800mbeyond burialground. craftvillageandopposite Balnakeil astone-walled circularwalkfromthecarparkoverlookingan hourormore foradelightful3-mile(5km)partly Bay areacross Balnakeil superb,andthewater lookstempting, warm.Allow thoughit’s notexactly atanytimeofyear,andespeciallywhenthetideisrightout.Views ofthecoastalcliffswalking of dunesnorthwest The widesandybeachesandmarram-grassed Durness ( p260 ) offer delightful Head Faraid SHORT WALKS h near peak extraordinary Suilven, are thefocusofa5.5-mile(9km)walkalongmostlygoodpathsfrom onthetumbling These beautifulcascadesandwaterfalls intheshadowof the River Kirkaig, Kirkaig of Falls From thecarparkasignpointsyouthroughsmallgate toavehicle track,pastaplaquein ontheeastern andfinishesatacarparkbesidebridgeoverThe walkstarts theRiver Kirkaig From thecarpark(where there’s aninformationboard)walkalongthebeach.Iftideisin, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Achins Bookshop&Cafe – yes, a bookshop with a fine selection ofScottishtitlesinthemiddle –yes,abookshopwithfineselection

( % 01571 844262; www.scotbooks.freeuk.com; snacks&lightmeals£3-5; 01571 844262;www.scotbooks.freeuk.com; ern rim of theridge. Thirty minutes from tiers of slabs alongthenorth- sandstone as possibletowalk upthealmostunbroken across a smallburnandturnwestassoon southwest pasta nameless,reedy lochan, cairn marksthespot.Continue generally rock slabs appearontheleft(south);a Just 10minutes out,leave thepathwhere ally northwestandwest–acrossmoorland. footbridge. Followthepathway–gener- a pathwhich crosses Allt Sgiathaig ona road foraround30m,thenturn off along From thecarpark,walksouthalong THE WALK ASSYNT ••Quinag

269 NORTHWEST NORTHWEST of of steeply upaclearpath,totheflatsummit thenheadnorthwest,soon a smallsaddle the rampartof grey crags.Dropdownto Continue uptoacrest, abreak through in It turnsouttobeasmallcircularshelter. asabeacon. on thewestern skylineserves butwhatlookslikeand goes alarge cairn overcourse rockyground;thepathcomes ridge.partly grassed thewesterly Retrieve turn southwestbrieflytogainthebroad, the mainpathashallowgullyintervenes; 270 down to grass, toasmall,namelesspinnacle. Drop Thencomesanotherup,mostlyonsaddle. to sandstone, Lochan Ruadhinabroad on thedistinctive pinkishTorridonian scramble inplaces.Godownsteeply,now follow thenarrowridge, which isabitof a work over crags–then exposed slightly summit –which involves somevery steep and Canisp, Cul Mortothesouth. and water belowthepeaksof Suilven and braces theclassicAssynt patchwork of land viewem- the shallowgully.Themarvellous path junction). and onto theroad(50minutes from the last mileorsobeyond low-lyingground, teau. Here thepathbecomes firmforthe a knobblyplain to alochan-studded pla- Cornaidh,downtoandacross chan Bealach across thewidehangingvalleycradling Lo- over wetground, leadssoutheastandeast, from thetop).Thepath,vague in places east of aChoinich (30minutesBealach apathinthecorrie, about150m to meet slope pathdownandacrossthesteep used then headgenerally southwestonawell- from thesaddle). lurks insideastoneshelter (40minutes SàilGharbh cappingtheflattishsummitofsandstone the rockyridge ontothefine-grained grey pavement of slabs. Continueup sandstone withacuriousern side,toabroadsaddle on themainridge, orbypassitontheeast- up,gooverHigher thetopof arockyknoll move totheright. caneasilybebypassed where awkwardup tothecliffs, oneslightly where near asbad.Thepathleadssteeply and barred thereality isno- bylowcliffs; the nextclimblooked hair-raisingly steep from SpideanCoinich). Fromadistance Descend fromthesouthernedge of the Retrace yoursteps tothebroadsaddle Spidean Coinich MOREWALKS••Assynt Bealach a’Chornaidh (808m), where a survey pillar (808m),where asurvey (764m),50minutes from (40minutes A835. There isno formalcarpark nearby River, about1.2miles eastof Elphin on the 100m eastof the bridge over the Ledmore Ledmore andthe A837.Thewalkstarts of Ullapooland 2.4miles(4km)westof on theA835,about15miles(24km) north dry spell. point,is Elphin, nearthestarting 50cm underwater, keep thiswalkforafine, when thestepping stonescanbeabout Lochan Fada canbehazardousafter rain, 1:50,000mapNo15. Landranger is aconvenient forthewalk.Use base OS of thelatter see opposite . Lochinver ( isp (846m)orSuilven (731m);fordetails p265 ) either direction, youcanhave agoatCan- depending onwhere youare From based. or Loch naGainimhtheturnaroundpoints, rangements, perhapsmaking Lochan Fada be splitintotwo,tosimplifytransportar- ing outing.Alternatively, thewalkcould hours forthemoderate–demand-to seven It involves only220mof ascent;allow6½ prominent landmarks, and Canisp Suilven. beautiful lochs andpasttwoof thenorth’s wild, rugged moorland,besideremote and ingly scenicwalkof A publicfootpathprovides anoutstand- Glen Canisp and theLochinver turnoff. LedmoreHotel, besidetheA837between park attheentrancetoInchnadamph 1:50,000mapNo15. Landranger isnotanissue. Use season the stalking OS ard route via Gleann Dubh,accessduring Scotland. Provided youkeep tothestand- incredible across summitpanorama,right ferent onthewayup–after the fromthose views onthewaybackare completely dif- Most folkdoitasathere-and-back trip;the 1100m of to7½hours. ascent;allowseven scenic, walkof 10.4miles(16.5km)involving fairly longandstrenuous, butoutstandingly peaks (they’re )inadaymakes fora huge massof shattered quartzite. Doingboth tomerge (987m), sothattheyseem intoone 3273ft) hidesbehinditssatellite Conival More AssyntFrom thewest,Ben (998m/ Assynt MORE WALKS Since fordingtheoutletstream from andfinishesatthecar The walkstarts 14miles(22.5km)across www.lonelyplanet.com by thelocal www.assyntfoundation.co.uk) park about200mtotheright. southern endof Lochinver. There isacar by apublicfootpathsigntoLedmore, atthe ishes atajunctionwiththeA837,marked gate 300meastof thebridge. Thewalkfin- but there isspaceforthree cars besidea www.lonelyplanet.com ver road. Followit along theB869coastal yond which thepathislessclear. edge tothepointnearest theOldMan, be- assafelypaths possible tothecliff asclose to theOldMan of followwell-used Stoer; munications tower. and itsnamelesssatellite, toppedbyacom- two grassy,heathery‘hills’– Sidhean Mòr topstothepointthenbackoverthe cliff takes youalong lighthouse from Stoerhead easy–moderate 5-mile(8km)roundwalk of theAssynt peaksare magnificent.An are ideal. Whatever theweather, theviews Point of northwestof Stoer, Lochinver, coastlinearound andthespectacular stack, then the Old Man of atoweringsea Stoer, If mistorlowcloudruleouthillwalking, Point ofStoer west Highlands Club’sguide tish Mountaineering 1:50,000 mapNo15.TheScot- Landranger Thewalkiscoveredhead forheights. byOS the bealach, callsforsomescramblinganda A fulltraverse of theridge, southeastfrom from where thesummitiseasilyreached. upto pathgoes too-well-used Mór, Bealach southern endof Loch naGainimh.Anall- the vehicle tracksoutheastasfarthe along theroadtoGlencanispLodge, then point. eal Liath–itshighest ridge awayfromthedome, tapering Caist- withalongish,bristly however, mountain, is acalendarstaple. It’squite acomplex domeloomingoversandstone Lochinver the northwest–itsextraordinaryterraced Suilven (731m)isperhapstheiconfor Suilven Suilven iswithinalarge purchased estate Turn off theA837justnorthof Lochin- carpark asignpoints At thelighthouse The mainapproach isfromLochinver, Assynt Foundation Assynt has a useful description. description. hasauseful in2005.

( % 01571 844392; The North- No 15. 1:50,000map walk; consultOSLandranger about three hours forthe2.5-mile (4km) forwalksinthearea.and agoodbase Allow outer Loch Broom,isthenearest village village overlooking theSummerIslesin Ullapool andElphin. Achiltibuie, asmall which branches fromtheA835between side thesingle-trackroadtoAchiltibuie, makes aroundwalkpossible. top fromthenorth;awestern extension easternround thesteep flankanduptothe of metres higher. Anexcellent pathclimbs frommanypeakshundredsas finethose panoramicviews to thenorth,andaffords south andfromamazeof lochs androck precipitously above Loch Lurgainn tothe lated, comb-like peakwestof Elphin,itrises Ullapool, andthemostaccessible. Aniso- remarkable groupof northof mountains haps themostdistinctive peakamongthe Pollaidh(612m),or Stac Polly,isper-Stac Stac Pollaidh from theAssynt ( VisitorCentre p265 ). a beautifullyillustrated brochure, available around 3miles(4km).They’re describedin an t-Sabhailandback,isacircularwalkof is anall-abilities path;theother,to Loch woods. The1-mile(1.6km) Easaidh Leitir lochans andsmallbirchtlements), secluded the remains of shielings(smallfarmingset- veloped thelow,grassyhills,past through sible. Twowaymarked routes have de- been tree plantingsandtomake itmore acces- natural heartof withextensive theestate Woodland Trust;itsaimsare torestore the is ownedbythelocal Culag Community afewThis estate, mileseastof Lochinver, Estate Assynt Little dranger 1:50,000mapNo15. alongtheB869.Use8 mileseast OS Lan- ments are at Lochinver or Drumbeg, about car park.Thenearest placesforrefresh- indicated) andcontinuetothelighthouse intersection at Achnacarnin; turnleft(as Followthisroadnorthtoanlighthouse. and tothesignposted tothe turnoff Stoer thevillagesfor 6milesthrough of Clachtoll The path starts ataformalcarparkbe- The pathstarts MORE WALKS••Assynt © LonelyPlanetPublications

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the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above-‘Doright thetermsandconditionsonoursitefora longerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords,pleasedon’tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake NORTHWEST