NORTHWEST © Lonelyplanetpublications Northwest Northwest 256 and Thedistinctive, Seeminglyinaccessiblepeakstacpollaidh
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© Lonely Planet Publications 256 www.lonelyplanet.com NORTHWEST •• Information 257 0 10 km Northwest 0 6 miles Northwest – Maps Cape Wrath 1 Sandwood Bay & Cape Wrath p260 Northwest Faraid 2 Ben Loyal p263 Head 3 Eas a' Chùal Aluinn p266 H 4 Quinag p263 Durness C Sandwood Creag Bay S Riabach Keoldale t (485m) To Thurso The north of Scotland, beyond a line joining Ullapool in the west and Dornoch Firth in r Kyle of N a (20mi) t Durness h S the east, is the most sparsely populated part of the country. Sutherland is graced with a h i n Bettyhill I a r y 1 Blairmore A838 Hope of Tongue generous share of the wildest and most remote coast, mountains and glens. At first sight, Loch Eriboll M Kinlochbervie Tongue the bare ‘hills’, more rock than earth, and the maze of lochs and waterways may seem Loch Kyle B801 Cranstackie Hope alien – part of another planet – and unattractive. But the very wildness of the rockscapes, (801m) r Rudha Rhiconich e Ruadh An Caisteal v the isolation of the long, deep glens, and the magnificence of the indented coastline can E (765m) a A838 Foinaven n Laxford (911m) Ben Hope h Loch t exercise a seductive fascination. The outstanding significance of the area’s geology has Bridge (927m) H 2 Loyal a r been recognised by the designation of the North West Highlands Geopark (see the boxed t T Scourie S Loch Ben Stack Stack A836 text on p264 ), the first such reserve in Britain. Intrusive developments are few, and many (721m) long-established paths lead into the mountains and through the glens. B871 Eddrachillis A894 Point of Loch Bay More This chapter focuses on a variety of walks in Sutherland’s northwest corner. Incomparably Stoer Ben Hee Loch Kylesku (873m) Altnaharra Naver beautiful Sandwood Bay is the highlight of a superb coast walk to Cape Wrath, Scotland’s Drumbeg B869 Loch Loch Glencoul Merkland most northwesterly point. Ben Loyal, overlooking the small village of Tongue on the north Quinag 3 Stoer Ben Klibreck Glas Bheinn (961m) coast, is an intriguing peak, topped by a cluster of granite tors. The ascent of Quinag, a (776m) 4 A837 Skiag Bridge striking mountain in the heart of the Assynt district, is nowhere near as difficult as it looks. Achmelvich Loch Lochinver Assynt By way of contrast, secretive Eas a’ Chùal Aluinn, Scotland’s highest waterfall, is reached only G h Inchnadamph lea Dub Suilven nn L o c h Rubha Inverkirkaig (731m) after a trek across wild moorland. Suggestions for other walks sustain the infinite variety Coigeach Ben More Enard Rive Canisp Assynt A838 r K ir (846m) (998m) S h i n that characterises Sutherland, and include the delightful Falls of Kirkaig, south of Lochinver, Bay ka ig and the distinctive, seemingly inaccessible peak Stac Pollaidh. Cul Mor Stac Pollaidh (849m) Ledmore (612m) Elphin Achiltibuie Loch A835 A837 River Lurgainn Lairg Ben More S Coigach t r A839 Loch (743m) To Ullapool (5mi); a t Oykel h O y l Rosehall A836 Broom Inverness (60mi) k e To Inverness (60mi) INFORMATION Koch-Osborne, is another option, which Maps & Books provides succinct descriptions of 23 walks For use during route planning, and for in the region. general orientation while you’re on the walk, the OS Travel – Road 1:250,000 map Information Sources HIGHLIGHTS No 2 Northern Scotland is ideal. To access general information on things Walking along the pristine beach at Sandwood Bay ( p261 ), en route to the towering cliffs at The Scottish Mountaineering Club’s such as accommodation listings and book- northwestern Cape Wrath published guide, The Northwest Highlands, ing facilities throughout the northwest area, which is jointly authored by DJ Bennet and try going to VisitHighlands (%0845 2255 121; Pottering about among the breezy pinnacles and crags of Ben Loyal ( p262 ) www.visithighlands.com) T Strang, is a very authoritative read. It also , a really useful offshoot NORTHWEST Venturing deep into a rocky mountain wilderness to stand atop Eas a’ Chùal Aluinn ( p265 ), manages to capture the scenic magic of the of VisitScotland. Scotland’s highest waterfall area extremely well. Traveline Scotland (%0870 608 2608; www.travel Capturing the amazing patchwork panorama of lochans, hills and crumpled coastline from The Pathfinder guide, Skye and the inescotland.com) provides public transport time- Quinag ( p267 ) North West Highlands, by John Brooks table information. Highland Council’s (%01463 702660; [email protected]) NORTHWEST and Neil Wilson, includes details on 13 free Public www.visithighlands.com www.assynt.info walks within the northwest area. Walks Transport Timetable: Sutherland is invalu- West Sutherland, by Peter and Rosemary able, and is available from TICs. 258 NORTHWEST •• Sandwood Bay & Cape Wrath www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com NORTHWEST •• Sandwood Bay & Cape Wrath 259 SANDWOOD BAY & CAPE WRATH In midsummer, and transport permit- for up to 6 miles (10km). Essential to the carry out all your rubbish. Water contain- ting, it is possible to walk from Cape Wrath management of the estate is the participa- ers will be handy; some camp sites are close Duration 6½–7 hours to Sandwood and back in a day from a base tion of local crofting communities through to the limited supplies of freshwater but Distance 14 miles (22.5km) in Durness on the north coast; the distance a special committee. they’re midge havens in summer. For more Difficulty moderate is 19.5 miles (32km) with 300m of ascent. information, contact the manager of Sand- Start Blairmore There is yet another option, although one ENVIRONMENT wood Estate (%01971 521459); he will also be Finish Cape Wrath needing even more careful organisation – Along the coast, the cliffs, deep inlets (geos) able to fill you in on guided walks around Nearest Towns Kinlochbervie ( opposite ), walking along the road to Cape Wrath and the offshore stacks and islets are pre- the estate during June and July. Durness ( p260 ) from the Kyle of Durness ferry, a distance dominantly sandstone, mixed into ancient Transport bus of about 10 miles (16km). However, this gneiss, the most widespread rock type. At Maps Summary An outstanding coastal walk, from means you’re going through the Royal Na- Cape Wrath the red gneiss cliffs soar to a The walk is covered by the OS Explorer an incomparable beach to the northwestern vy’s Cape Wrath firing range, where live height of about 120m. A few miles east, at 1:25,000 map No 446 Durness & Cape Wrath, tip of the country, through a remote and unin- ammunition is fired fairly regularly and Kervaig, are reputedly the highest coastal and the OS Landranger 1:50,000 map No 9 habited area of great beauty and wildness. unexploded shells may lurk on the moor- cliffs in mainland Scotland, at 284m. Gla- Cape Wrath. land beside the road. ‘Activity dates’ are ciers and ice sheets left their mark in sculpt- posted at the Durness TIC or you can ring ing the river valleys; large gneiss boulders NEAREST TOWNS Cape Wrath, the northwesternmost point %0800 833 300 for details. The website perched on sandstone platforms were left Kinlochbervie of mainland Scotland; Sandwood Bay, the www.durness.org has a detailed explana- behind by retreating glaciers. %01971 most beautiful beach in the country; and tion of what this is all about and a link to The peatlands, sand dunes and mach- Principally a fishing village, Kinlochbervie the long stretch of magnificent, unspoiled the relevant site. air (coastal grasslands) from Sandwood to is dominated by large port facilities around coastline between them are the evocative Sheigra, and the dunes and machair between the sheltered harbour. The nearest ATM, and irresistible highlights of this finest of HISTORY Sheigra and Oldshoremore (all within the TIC, camping ground and hostel are in Du- coast walks. This is also lonely and remote Cape Wrath’s name comes from the Norse John Muir Trust’s Sandwood Estate) are rness ( p260 ). country – not a soul lives anywhere near the word for ‘turning point’ – it was clearly protected in two Sites of Special Scientific Braeside B&B (%521325; s/d £23/46) is a route, except at its southern extremity in a crucial landmark for the Vikings during Interest. The machair, found only in rela- friendly, long-established place in the vil- the crofting settlement of Blairmore, north their incursions in the north and west be- tively few places along the west coast and in lage centre. of Kinlochbervie. An extensive area around tween the 9th and 13th centuries. the Western Isles, comes alive between late Old School Restaurant & Rooms (%521383; Sandwood Bay and nearby Sandwood Loch The hazards involved in navigating the June and August with carpets of globeflower, www.oldschoolhotel.co.uk; Inshegra; s/d £40/70, mains is owned and managed by the John Muir often stormy seas around here were long bell flower, vetch, knapweed and orchid. £9-18; hdinner) occupies a former primary Trust (see p31 ) in partnership with the local recognised and led to the building of the school that served the local community community. lighthouse at the cape by Robert and Alan PLANNING for nearly a century. Accommodation is in The recommended direction is south to Stevenson in 1828. The last keepers left by What to Bring an adjacent modern building, where some north, arriving at the dramatic landmark 1997, when people were replaced by au- If you’re planning to camp at Sandwood rooms look out across Loch Inchard. of Cape Wrath after several hours along tomatic equipment; the once-handsome Bay, a fuel stove is an absolute must, as are Kinlochbervie Hotel (%521275; www.kinlochbervie the coast.