Set and Costume Design by Kieron Devlin
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Charles Ricketts' Illustrations for Two of Oscar Wilde's Poems in Prose
3 FAITHFUL INFIDELITY: CHARLES RICKETTS' ILLUSTRATIONS FOR TWO OF OSCAR WILDE'S POEMS IN PROSE Jeremiah Romano Mercurio (University of St Andrews) Abstract The artist, collector, and critic Charles Ricketts (1866–1931) has often been characterised as a reactionary voice in early-twentieth-century debates about modern art. Although he responded conservatively to modern-art developments such as those embodied by the term 'Post-Impressionism', his work in book design and illustration exemplifies progressive strategies of decoration that reconfigure the relationship between author and illustrator as one of collaborative authorship. Ricketts' illustrations are autonomous narratives that not only reproduce the meanings of the texts they represent, but also parody and elaborate on them. Moreover, Ricketts' book designs and illustrations represent a complex resistance to and working out of Oscar Wilde's views on art, language, and orality. Wilde regarded visual art as inferior to language because the latter can embody the graphic and is free from the former's fixity in time and materiality. Ricketts' illustrational strategies are designed, not only to reinforce his own autonomy, but also to disprove Wilde's description of visual art as limited compared with language. Ricketts' progressive strategies of design are epitomized by his unpublished illustrations for Wilde's Poems in Prose (1894), a text which dramatises the centrality of voice to Wilde's poetic endeavour and allows Ricketts directly to challenge Wilde's denigration of the visual arts. By focusing on two representative examples, Ricketts' drawings for 'The Disciple' and 'The House of Judgment', and by providing close readings of both image and text, this piece traces Ricketts' illustrational methods and reveals their debts to Wilde's own theories of orality, language, and visual arts, charting Ricketts' divergences from Wilde's texts and highlighting the critical dialogue implicit in the illustrations. -
Puvunestekn 2
1/23/19 Costume designers and Illustrations 1920-1940 Howard Greer (16 April 1896 –April 1974, Los Angeles w as a H ollywood fashion designer and a costume designer in the Golden Age of Amer ic an cinema. Costume design drawing for Marcella Daly by Howard Greer Mitc hell Leis en (October 6, 1898 – October 28, 1972) was an American director, art director, and costume designer. Travis Banton (August 18, 1894 – February 2, 1958) was the chief designer at Paramount Pictures. He is considered one of the most important Hollywood costume designers of the 1930s. Travis Banton may be best r emembered for He held a crucial role in the evolution of the Marlene Dietrich image, designing her costumes in a true for ging the s tyle of s uc h H ollyw ood icons creative collaboration with the actress. as Carole Lombard, Marlene Dietrich, and Mae Wes t. Costume design drawing for The Thief of Bagdad by Mitchell Leisen 1 1/23/19 Travis Banton, Travis Banton, Claudette Colbert, Cleopatra, 1934. Walter Plunkett (June 5, 1902 in Oakland, California – March 8, 1982) was a prolific costume designer who worked on more than 150 projects throughout his career in the Hollywood film industry. Plunk ett's bes t-known work is featured in two films, Gone with the Wind and Singin' in the R ain, in which he lampooned his initial style of the Roaring Twenties. In 1951, Plunk ett s hared an Osc ar with Orr y-Kelly and Ir ene for An Amer ic an in Paris . Adr ian Adolph Greenberg ( 1903 —19 59 ), w i de l y known Edith H ead ( October 28, 1897 – October 24, as Adrian, was an American costume designer whose 1981) was an American costume designer mos t famous costumes were for The Wiz ard of Oz and who won eight Academy Awards, starting with other Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer films of the 1930s and The Heiress (1949) and ending with The Sting 1940s. -
THTR 433A/ '16 CD II/ Syllabus-9.Pages
USCSchool of Costume Design II: THTR 433A Thurs. 2:00-4:50 Dramatic Arts Fall 2016 Location: Light Lab/PDE Instructor: Terry Ann Gordon Office: [email protected]/ floating office Office Hours: Thurs. 1:00-2:00: by appt/24 hr notice Contact Info: [email protected], 818-636-2729 Course Description and Overview This course is designed to acquaint students with the requirements, process and expectations for Film/TV Costume Designers, supervisors and crew. Emphasis will be placed on all aspects of the Costume process; Design, Prep: script analysis,“scene breakdown”, continuity, research, and budgeting; Shooting schedules, and wrap. The supporting/ancillary Costume Arts and Crafts will also be discussed. Students will gain an historical overview, researching a variety of designers processes, aesthetics and philosophies. Viewing films and film clips will support critique and class discussion. Projects focused on specific design styles and varied media will further support an overview of techniques and concepts. Current production procedures, vocabulary and technology will be covered. We will highlight those Production departments interacting closely with the Costume Department. Time permitting, extra-curricular programs will include rendering/drawing instruction, select field trips, and visiting TV/Film professionals. Students will be required to design a variety of projects structured to enhance their understanding of Film/TV production, concept, style and technique . Learning Objectives The course goal is for students to become familiar with the fundamentals of costume design for TV/Film. They will gain insight into the protocol and expectations required to succeed in this fast paced industry. We will touch on the multiple variations of production formats: Music Video, Tv: 4 camera vs episodic, Film, Commercials, Styling vs Costume Design. -
Critical Introduction to Volume 1 of the Dial (1889)
Critical Introduction to Volume 1 of The Dial (1889) The unsigned “Apology” located on the final page of the first Dial brought out Figure 1. Pictorial Initial "U" Designed by Charles Ricketts for John Gray’s “The Great Worm” by Charles Ricketts and Charles Shannon in August 1889 outlined the editorial defense (apologia) for the eccentric publication: “The sole aim of this magazine is to gain sympathy with its views” (36). The views expressed in this first number were those of a very limited group indeed: four young men based in central London. In addition to co-editors Ricketts and Shannon, who between them produced most of the magazine’s contents, Reginald Savage contributed a single artwork and a series of brief “Notes” on current exhibitions and John Gray provided a fairy tale and a critical essay. Like its Pre-Raphaelite predecessor the Germ (1850), the Dial sought to set the visual and verbal arts in dialogue with each other. Artists illustrated the literary efforts of their colleagues, Ricketts designed textual ornaments for specific pieces of writing (fig. 1), and the magazine as whole engaged with ideas of design. While the Dial might have shared the Germ’s subtitle, “Thoughts Towards Nature in Art and Literature,” its approach is more fantastic, mythical, and decorative. Indeed, the magazine’s artistic vision extends 1 beyond the English Pre-Raphaelites to include the art and literature of the Continent, particularly that of France. The “Apology” concludes with the acknowledgement that “we are out of date in our belief that the artist’s conscientiousness cannot be controlled by the paying public” (36). -
Charles Ricketts & Charles Shannon
0 More Next Blog» Create Blog Sign In Charles Ricketts & Charles Shannon Wednesday, June 11, 2014 Search This Blog 150. Who must I copy to be original? Search Blog 150 is a contribution by Philip R. Bishop, connoisseur of the work of Thomas Bird Mosher, who has been the subject of some recent blogs. Who must I copy to be original? This question from François Coppée’s Le Trésor, ‘Qui pourrais-je imiter pour être original?’, has always seemed appropriate when discussing Thomas Bird Mosher and the preparation of his Mosher Press books. The literature and designs of the Kelmscott, Eragny, the Daniel presses and the Bodley Head were all copied and Ricketts and the Vale Press were likewise included in Mosher’s arsenal. Charles Ricketts (1866-1931), artist, book designer, collector, art critic, set and costume designer & Charles Shannon (1863-1937), lithographer, painter and art collector : a weekly blog written by Paul van Capelleveen With contributions by Paul Delaney (no. 11, no. 100), Barbara Pezzini (no. 39, no. 40), Paul Durham (no. 136), Thomas Bird Mosher at age 49 (circa 1901) Philip R. Bishop (no. 150), and with texts by Charles Ricketts To be sure, Mosher admired the Vale Press and it’s publisher-designer. In (no. 16, no. 31, no. 46, no. 61, the Gordon Bottomley correspondence at the British Library there are two no. 111, no. 138, no. 149) key letters in which Mosher professes his admiration. Thanks are due to Marja In the Mosher-to-Bottomley letter of May 10, 1910 Mosher discusses Smolenaars. Ricketts’s book on Titian with its excellent half-tone illustrations. -
{Dоwnlоаd/Rеаd PDF Bооk} the Fashion of Film: How Cinema Has
THE FASHION OF FILM: HOW CINEMA HAS INSPIRED FASHION PDF, EPUB, EBOOK Amber Jane Butchart | 224 pages | 08 Sep 2016 | Octopus Publishing Group | 9781784721763 | English | London, United Kingdom 25 Most Iconic Fashion Moments In Film However, since then various factors have enriched and diversified fashion's interaction with film. First, there was—in the wake of Audrey Hepburn 's successful collaboration with the then young and relatively unknown Paris couturier Hubert de Givenchy from Sabrina onward—the growing use of fashion as opposed to costume design on a number of key movies. Third and a far more contemporary factor is the rise in celebrity culture and a burgeoning interest in movie stars, what they wear both on and off the screen. From the s through the s, relatively few fashion designers demeaned themselves by working for moving pictures. It was Givenchy's collaboration with Hepburn that changed everything. Called in reputedly at Hepburn's behest, Givenchy's first film costumes were the ball gowns in Sabrina. The details of this story are muddled because Givenchy's account of his input in the film at times directly contradicts the version proffered by the film's overall costume designer, Edith Head. Head, who had designed the costumes for Hepburn's Oscar- winning role as the princess in Roman Holiday just the previous year, was clearly hurt by the star's—and director's—decision to acquire an actual Paris wardrobe for Sabrina. In The Dress Doctor , Head comments: "I had to console myself with the dress, whose boat neckline was tied on each shoulder—widely known and copied as 'the Sabrina neckline'" Head and Ardmore , p. -
HELEN RITCHIE Jewellery Studies — the Journal of the Society of Jewellery Historians 2020/3
Jewellery Studies The Journal of The Society of Jewellery Historians 2020/3 HELEN RITCHIE Jewellery Studies — the Journal of The Society of Jewellery Historians 2020/3. Ritchie Published by the Society of Jewellery Historians The Society of J E W ELL ERY HISTORIANS The Society of Jewellery Historians is a Registered Charity: No.1151393, and a company limited by guarantee, No. 7032947, registered in England. The logo of the Society is the copyright of the Society and shall not be used if the Work is republished in any way other than as an unaltered pdf of the Work in this Publication. The Society was formed in 1977 with the aim of stimulating the growing international interest in jewellery of all ages and cultures by publishing new research and by bringing together those interested in the subject, whether in a professional or private capacity. The membership includes archaeologists, museum specialists, collectors, art historians, dealers, gemmologists, practising jewellers and designers, scientists and conservators. The Society runs a programme of lectures from September to June, inviting speakers from different disciplines and many parts of the world. The lectures are usually held in London at the Society of Antiquaries, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1V OHS, and are made available afterwards on the Society’s website. In addition, the Society arranges a variety of other occasional events including international symposia on aspects of the history and technology of jewellery, study visits to museums, and private views of special exhibitions. For full details visit the Society’s website at: www.societyofjewelleryhistorians.ac.uk or write to: The Membership Secretary, The Society of Jewellery Historians, Scientific Research, The British Museum, London WC1B 3DG 1 Jewellery Studies — the Journal of The Society of Jewellery Historians 2020/3. -
During the 1930-60'S, Hollywood Directors Were Told to "Put the Light Where the Money Is" and This Often Meant Spectacular Costumes
During the 1930-60's, Hollywood directors were told to "put the light where the money is" and this often meant spectacular costumes. Stuidos hired the biggest designers and fashion icons to bring to life the glitz and the glamour that moviegoers expected. Edith Head, Adrian, Walter Plunkett, Irene and Helen Rose were just a few that became household names because of their designs. In many cases, their creations were just as important as the plot of the movie itself. Few costumes from the "Golden Era" of Hollywood remain except for a small number tha have been meticulously preserved by a handful of collectors. Greg Schreiner is one of the most well-known. His wonderful Hollywood fiolm costume collection houses over 175 such masterpieces. Greg shares his collection in the show Hollywoood Revisited. Filled with music, memories and fun, the revue allows the audience to genuinely feel as if they were revisiting the days that made Hollywood a dream factory. The wardrobes of Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Julie Andrews, Robert Taylor, Bette Davis, Ann-Margret, Susan Hayward, Bob Hope and Judy Garland are just a few from the vast collection that dazzle the audience. Hollywood Revisited is much more than a visual treat. Acclaimed vocalists sing movie-related music while modeling the costumes. Schreiner, a professional musician, provides all the musical sccompaniment and anecdotes about the designer, the movie and scene for each costume. The show has won critical praise from movie buffs, film historians, and city-wide newspapers. Presentation at the legendary Pickfair, The State Theatre for The Los Angeles Conservancy and The Santa Barbara Biltmore Hotel met with huge success. -
DRAWING COSTUMES, PORTRAYING CHARACTERS Costume Sketches and Costume Concept Art in the Filmmaking Process
Laura Malinen 2017 DRAWING COSTUMES, PORTRAYING CHARACTERS Costume sketches and costume concept art in the filmmaking process MA thesis Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture Department of Film, Television and Scenography Master’s Degree Programme in Design for Theatre, Film and Television Major in Costume Design 30 credits Acknowledgements I would like to thank my supervisors Sofia Pantouvaki and Satu Kyösola for the invaluable help I got for this thesis. I would also like to thank Nick Keller, Anna Vilppunen and Merja Väisänen, for sharing their professional expertise with me. Author Laura Malinen Title of thesis Drawing Costumes, Portraying Characters – Costume sketches and costume concept art in the filmmaking process Department Department of Film, Television and Scenography Degree programme Master’s Degree Programme in Design for Theatre, Film and Television. Major in Costume Design Year 2017 Number of pages 85 Language English Abstract This thesis investigates the various types of drawing used in the process of costume design for film, focusing on costume sketches and costume concept art. The research question for this thesis is ‘how and why are costume sketches and costume concept art used when designing costumes for film?’ The terms ‘costume concept art’ and ‘costume sketch’ have largely been used interchangeably. My hypothesis is that even though costume sketch and costume concept art have similarities in the ways of usage and meaning, they are, in fact, two separate, albeit interlinked and complementary terms as well as two separate types of professional expertise. The focus of this thesis is on large-scale film productions, since they provide the most valuable information regarding costume sketches and costume concept art. -
Introduction
THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS THE OLIVE WONG PROJECT PERFORMANCE COSTUME DESIGN RESEARCH GUIDE INTRODUCTION COSTUME DESIGN AND PERFORMANCE WRITTEN AND EDITED BY AILEEN ABERCROMBIE The New York Public Library for the Perform- newspapers, sketches, lithographs, poster art ing Arts, located in Lincoln Center Plaza, is and photo- graphs. In this introduction, I will nestled between four of the most infuential share with you some of Olive’s selections from performing arts buildings in New York City: the NYPL collection. Avery Fisher Hall, Te Metropolitan Opera, the Vivian Beaumont Teater (home to the Lincoln There are typically two ways to discuss cos- Center Teater), and David H. Koch Teater. tume design: “manner of dress” and “the history Te library matches its illustrious location with of costume design”. “Manner of dress” contextu- one of the largest collections of material per- alizes the way people dress in their time period taining to the performing arts in the world. due to environment, gender, position, economic constraints and attitude. Tis is essentially the The library catalogs the history of the perform- anthropological approach to costume design. ing arts through collections acquired by notable Others study “the history of costume design”, photographers, directors, designers, perform- examining the way costume designers interpret ers, composers, and patrons. Here in NYC the the manner of dress in their time period: where so many artists live and work we have the history of the profession and the profession- an opportunity, through the library, to hear als. Tis discussion also talks about costume sound recording of early flms, to see shows designers’ backstory, their process, their that closed on Broadway years ago, and get to relationships and their work. -
FOREST LAWN MEMORIAL PARK Hollywood Hills Orry George Kelly December 31, 1897 - February 27, 1964 Forest Lawn Memorial Park Hollywood Hills
Welcome to FOREST LAWN MEMORIAL PARK Hollywood Hills Orry George Kelly December 31, 1897 - February 27, 1964 Forest Lawn Memorial Park Hollywood Hills Order of Service Waltzing Matilda Played by the Forest Lawn Organist – Anthony Zediker Eulogy to be read by Jack. L. Warner Pall Bearers, To be Announced. Photo by Tony Duran Orry George Kelly December 31, 1897 - February 27, 1964 Forest Lawn Memorial Park Hollywood Hills Photo by Tony Duran Orry George Kelly December 31, 1897 - February 27, 1964 Forest Lawn Memorial Park Hollywood Hills Orry-Kelly Filmography 1963 Irma la Douce 1942 Always in My Heart (gowns) 1936 Isle of Fury (gowns) 1963 In the Cool of the Day 1942 Kings Row (gowns) 1936 Cain and Mabel (gowns) 1962 Gypsy (costumes designed by) 1942 Wild Bill Hickok Rides (gowns) 1936 Give Me Your Heart (gowns) 1962 The Chapman Report 1942 The Man Who Came to Dinner (gowns) 1936 Stage Struck (gowns) 1962 Five Finger Exercise 1941 The Maltese Falcon (gowns) 1936 China Clipper (gowns) (gowns: Miss Russell) 1941 The Little Foxes (costumes) 1936 Jailbreak (gowns) 1962 Sweet Bird of Youth (costumes by) 1941 The Bride Came C.O.D. (gowns) 1936 Satan Met a Lady (gowns) 1961 A Majority of One 1941 Throwing a Party (Short) 1936 Public Enemy’s Wife (gowns) 1959 Some Like It Hot 1941 Million Dollar Baby (gowns) 1936 The White Angel (gowns) 1958 Auntie Mame (costumes designed by) 1941 Affectionately Yours (gowns) 1936 Murder by an Aristocrat (gowns) 1958 Too Much, Too Soon (as Orry Kelly) 1941 The Great Lie (gowns) 1936 Hearts Divided (gowns) -
Appendix: Partial Filmographies for Lucile and Peggy Hamilton Adams
Appendix: Partial Filmographies for Lucile and Peggy Hamilton Adams The following is a list of films directly related to my research for this book. There is a more extensive list for Lucile in Randy Bryan Bigham, Lucile: Her Life by Design (San Francisco and Dallas: MacEvie Press Group, 2012). Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon The American Princess (Kalem, 1913, dir. Marshall Neilan) Our Mutual Girl (Mutual, 1914) serial, visit to Lucile’s dress shop in two episodes The Perils of Pauline (Pathé, 1914, dir. Louis Gasnier), serial The Theft of the Crown Jewels (Kalem, 1914) The High Road (Rolfe Photoplays, 1915, dir. John Noble) The Spendthrift (George Kleine, 1915, dir. Walter Edwin), one scene shot in Lucile’s dress shop and her models Hebe White, Phyllis, and Dolores all appear Gloria’s Romance (George Klein, 1916, dir. Colin Campbell), serial The Misleading Lady (Essanay Film Mfg. Corp., 1916, dir. Arthur Berthelet) Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm (Mary Pickford Film Corp., 1917, dir. Marshall Neilan) The Rise of Susan (World Film Corp., 1916, dir. S.E.V. Taylor), serial The Strange Case of Mary Page (Essanay Film Manufacturing Company, 1916, dir. J. Charles Haydon), serial The Whirl of Life (Cort Film Corporation, 1915, dir. Oliver D. Bailey) Martha’s Vindication (Fine Arts Film Company, 1916, dir. Chester M. Franklin, Sydney Franklin) The High Cost of Living (J.R. Bray Studios, 1916, dir. Ashley Miller) Patria (International Film Service Company, 1916–17, dir. Jacques Jaccard), dressed Irene Castle The Little American (Mary Pickford Company, 1917, dir. Cecil B. DeMille) Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm (Mary Pickford Company, 1917, dir.