The Difficulty of Each Swift and Rapid Increases Slightly As We Move Downstream

MattawaRive by Tim Scanlon

VER THE PAST FEW YEARS OUR SCOUT TROOPS HAVE MADE AN ANNUAL TREK TO PLY THE waters of the Mattawa River. This adventure started with an invitation from a O longtime friend and Scouter, Ian Buckham of the 1st North Bay Scouts. Ian (“Buckwheat” as he is fondly known) has remained involved in the Scouting movement since joining as a Scout in 1972, and is an invaluable part of our team.

This short canoe route is located The edited movie is chock-full of clude a bow and stern “painter” (rope approximately 30 kilometres east of amusing and informative scenes in- attached to the canoe on either end), North Bay in Ontario’s near north tended to whet the appetites of this PFD’s, a 15-metre throw rope, bailing region. The Mattawa is part of an year’s participants. We also rent a device and paddles. ancient chain of rivers and lakes that local pool and conduct an introduc- We enter the water route at Pimisi has carried people and goods across tory canoeing class early in the new Bay, a small heart-shaped bay ap- the province of Ontario; a system year. During this class we demon- proximately 1.6 kilometres in diame- connected to routes that transverse strate the various paddle strokes, ter. Having made this journey a few the entire North American continent. basic entry and exit techniques, a times, I always feel a sense of relief The tradition of the indigenous peo- canoe-over-canoe rescue and life when my paddle touches the calm ple traces the use of this waterway saving\ first aid skills. waters of the bay. Memories of past back over 5,000 years. Our provisions are a combination adventures drift through my mind Although the eight rapids along of dehydrated, frozen and fresh while I ponder how this year’s events the route are all level one classifica- foods. A limited amount of ice is will measure up, and I smile as the tion, we always prepare our Scouts brought along for refrigeration and new Scouts shout and carry on just for this event in a number of ways. drinking water, which is pumped as they are meant to. I observe the Our planning starts in the fall with at every location. Canoes can be rent- camaraderie between the Scouts, a casual video evening meeting. We ed at any of three area outfitters, leaders, and parent-and-child teams. share soft drinks, juice and popcorn brought with the troops or, as is our We paddle patiently toward the while we show portions of a video we preference, “rented” from the local north shore of the bay. At times, the shot during one of our previous trips. Scout troop. Canoe accessories in- leaders look like mother ducks nudg-

TThe difficulty of each swift and rapid increases slightly as we move downstream. Photos: Courtesy of Tim Scanlon

4 THE LEADER, June/July 2003 er Adventures

ing and guiding the canoes into an ing the fact that parts of this narrow then the Scouts will (hearts pounding orderly group, while assisting those waterway are well over one hundred and eyes the size of pieplates) make who can’t quite manage to keep their feet deep. As we approach the por- it down this one dry. craft on a straight course. tage, the haunting sound of the falls This section of the river is ideal Landing with much less rever- becomes more compelling. We hug for first-time canoeists. The difficulty ence, the excitement of staking the the south shore of the river and land of each swift and rapid increases perfect spot for their tent overpowers at the lower end of the portage. slightly as we move downstream. Our our Scouts. Once the tents have been Next morning, we depart for a se- next challenge (about 300 metres pitched and the provisions unload- ries of rapids and swifts following the downstream) is “Portage de la Cave,” ed, we ask a predesignated group of river’s downstream path. The first named for the underwater caves cre- Scouts to hoist the Troop and Scouts swift (officially named “Portage des ated by centuries of swirling cur- Canada flags in a prominent position Perches”) is rather unassuming, but rents. Managing the sharp left turn at and salute the flags. We choose a dif- historically significant. Called the the bottom of this rapid is usually ac- ferent group every day for this honor. “Poling Station,” it is at this point in companied by hoots and hollers from A visit to Talon Chutes, a kilome- the river that travellers would discard the rest of the troop! Gathering the tre upstream from our current camp- their poles used for pushing their party, we take a short and relaxing site, is a must. We start our side trip craft upstream. As the sweep (the last swift to the left and enter the staging a few hundred metres west of our canoe down the river) I observe that area for the most difficult rapid we’ll campsite at a nondescript rock out- some of the Scouts who have been face today - “Portage de la Prairie”. cropping known as the “Humpbacked the most rambunctious thus far are We have sometimes spotted moose Rock”. It is at this spot that abor- the quietest and most nervous when browsing just above this rapid, and en- iginals and Voyageurs would leave they are faced with the possibility of joyed swimming in the lake’s shallow tobacco sacrifices to ensure safe going for an unexpected swim. gravel-bottomed waters. The portage passage on the river. One by one the successful Scouts follows the contour of the river; allow- The entry into Talon Chutes fol- raft up immediately below this swift, ing a steady buildup of anxiety as the lows a narrow, straight path, where ready to face their first authentic churning of the waters turns to spray eons of erosion have persistently rapid. If the leaders have managed to near the bottom. I am not immune to carved the canyon walls. The black impart the significance of keeping a the fear and have often disguised my waters slowly swirl downstream, hid- canoe headed straight downstream willingness for stretching my legs into

THE LEADER, June/July 2003 5 a portage. Ian Buckham, having made pop band. It is at this campsite that from the campsite on the north side this trip over one hundred times, is Ian was presented with a bottle of of the lake below the rapids to the undaunted and navigates this section wine as a gift from a fellow canoeist - Purdy Lake mine. This open pit mine with apparent ease. former Prime Minister John Turner. was discovered in 1941 by young Mid-afternoon, we proceed to With only three swifts and two Justin Purdy, and proved to be crucial Paresseux Falls. This portion of rapids ahead, the last day of our jour- in the allied war effort - providing the river is abundant with beaver mica used for electronics insulation. lodges, blue heron and otter. Inquisi- The last swift carries us into a tive Scouts have often received an narrow portion of the river. Rem- abrupt warning, in the form of a nants of this area’s logging past tail slap, that they are not welcome are evident; occasionally one can so close to these dwellings. Pares- see a Booth stamp on a submerged seux Falls is a comfortable 400-pace timber and reflect upon that era. portage. We approach the confluence of the We follow the river along the Mattawa and the Amable du Fond canyon to “Porte de l’Enfer” (Gate to rivers. For the first time on our trip, Hell) on our left. This site was an we attempt to paddle upstream (the open-pit mine used over 3,000 years Amable du Fond) so that we can crab ago by aboriginals to extract ochre, across to land and unload before we a red mineral used as pigment are swept down the Campion rapids. for sacred rituals and drawing pic- Void of our cargo, the groups are free tographs. The Voyageurs, upon hear- to run the rapids as often as they ing the native legend, would never wish. Satisfied that they have com- pass this point in the river without pleted their journey, some groups smoking a peace pipe and offering run this set of rapids four or five tobacco to the native spirits. times before gathering for Scouts’ The last portion of the day’s pad- Own on the riverbank. dling leads us to a campsite at Elm ney is upon us. We continue along A good portion of our Scouts will Point, a magnificent site cradled be- the river as it spills through a swift never return to these waters again tween two sides of an ancient fault. into Bouillion Lake and into “Portage but the leaders can feel satisfied Although we feel the primordial call de Roches” (Boulder Portage). In knowing that their memories of the to rest shortly after nightfall, the high water this relatively straight adventure will last a lifetime. campfire’s warmth and the star-filled, rapid is bouncy but navigable. In jet-black sky beg to be enjoyed. We low water it lives up to its name –When not in his canoe, Tim Scanlon often gather round the beach at night “Boulder” rapids and is best can be found Scouting and living hap- and count the satellites, discuss the portaged. With time on our side, we pily with his family in Precious Cor- cosmos, philosophy or the latest can take the three-kilometre hike ners, Ontario. Photo: Courtesy of Tim Scanlon

6 THE LEADER, June/July 2003