Identifying Plaids

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Plaids are formed by vertical and horizontal color patterning in fabrics from traditional wools to elegant synthetics. Identifying their unique characteristics will aid the cutting and sewing process for a perfect match.

Defining Moments tartan are used 1. What is the difference between a tartan and interchangeably. a plaid, and a balanced even plaid versus an Plaids can be printed or woven. A woven uneven plaid? plaid fabric (2) is created when different color yarns are intertwined lengthwise and A tartan is a specific woven pattern that crosswise, making both sides of the fabric often signifies a particular Scottish clan in identical. With a printed plaid (3), the the modern era. The pattern is made with design may be off grain resulting in sewing colored yarns forming alternating stripes, and cutting challenges. resulting in blocks of colors that repeat vertically and Balancing Act horizontally in a pattern of Plaids are also characterized squares and lines (1). At one as even (or balanced) or an point wearing tartan was uneven (or unbalanced). An banned in 1745 because it easy way to identify the plaid was the dress of Highlanders type is to fold the plaid who supported the Stuart lengthwise with right sides Prince Charles against King 2. Woven plaid together. Turn back one George 11. Today wearing corner to form a right angle. tartans is considered a classic Do the lines, spaces and fall look. colors match in both the In American English, plaid is lengthwise and crosswise a fabric made with directions? If so, this is an alternating stripes and bands even plaid. An even plaid will of color woven into or dyed have the same lines, spaces, onto the fabric. This makes colors on the left and right blocks of colors that repeat side and the same pattern vertically and horizontally in above and below a center or a pattern or squares and dominate line. Even plaids will match in both the lines. Plaid is also a Scottish 3. Printed plaid word meaning blanket or lengthwise and crosswise long shawl, usually referring directions resulting in a to a patterned woolen cloth. perfect square (4). Very few Through the Middle Ages plaids are even. and until the 18th century An uneven plaid is a the people of North Britain rectangular repeat which is belted their plaids about not a perfect square. It can them; the lower part forming be balanced crosswise, the kilt, the upper part the lengthwise, both or neither. cloak. An uneven plaid with a Today the words plaid and balanced crosswise has a 4. Even plaid symmetrical arrangement of Identifying Plaids

4.315 Page 2 vertical bars. When folded vertically Pattern Picks through the center of the repeat, the two The most attractive plaid garments are halves are identical. This type of plaid will simple, uncomplicated designs that require a with-nap layout when cutting showcase the fabric. Avoid patterns out pattern pieces. When the uneven with slanted darts, circular yokes and plaid is balanced lengthwise, the repeats curved seams. do not have a center from which the design can be balanced in both Keep the plaid scale in mind--small directions, which means the design will plaids work best with blouses, while go around the body in one direction only. 5. Uneven balanced plaid the larger plaids work better with This type of plaid has a symmetrical coats, jackets or skirts. arrangement of crosswise bars and when For best results, look at fabric folded horizontally the two halves are suggestions on the pattern envelope to identical. When the uneven plaid is see if plaids are listed as a suitable balanced in both directions there will be fabric for the project; if not, don't use a symmetrical arrangement of both plaid fabric. vertical and horizontal bars. Fold this plaid into quarters and all four quarters Cutting design details like piping, will match, but they will not make a binding and/or pockets on the bias is perfect square. Uneven balanced plaids 6. Uneven crosswise plaid an especially effective use of plaid frequently look like even plaids, but they fabric. are rectangles, not perfect squares. An For more information on plaids and uneven plaid will typically require more how to match them, see fabric and more skill, and again all the Guideline11.390. pattern pieces should lay out for a with nap layout. See views 5 and 6. Sometimes it is difficult to decide if the plaid is balanced or not. One way to determine on large or multicolored plaids is to number each bar and space, allowing you to read the pattern without 7. Balanced plaid getting confused. So if the pattern reads 543212345 the plaid is balanced, while if another plaid reads 1234512345 the plaid is unbalanced. See views 7 and 8. Careful Consideration Plaids require additional yardage to allow for matching. Some plaids have a nap or a one-way pattern, resulting in 8. Unbalanced plaid additional yardage beyond what's required for matching. Look carefully before buying a printed plaid—if it's off- grain more than 1/4”, it will become difficult (if not impossible) to match the plaids or the seams will end up twisted. 3/07