BLUE RIDGEthat brings images of tricorner hats BLISSand the Brits in the world) – called the New River, of course. There is no ribbon of highway more ideal for bicycling than at Yorktown, and where it’s tough to ride any- People here have a real sense of humor. the and the Blue Ridge . where and not be reminded, by statue or monu- Add to North Carolina’s appeal the - — Elizabeth & Charlie Skinner, Bicycling the Blue Ridge ment or chance conversation, of our murderous like past of our Revolution and Civil War, but Civil War. toss in, amazingly, the final ship-deck struggle ounds like typical marketing hooey, doesn’t Madeline Stowe movie The Last of the Mohicans Place the other park in North Carolina, an of Blackbeard the pirate! Before I rode this route it? But picture this — first, two gorgeous (minus the bloody battle scenes). underappreciated visual gem of 200 waterfalls in its entirety late one fall and spent those chilly national parks of high mountains, deep leafy Next put those parks in states of fascinating his- amid countless tree-covered mountains, more than early dark hours reading about the Tar Heel state forests,S and short hiking trails to misty glens that tory. Picture one in the Commonwealth of Virginia, a million acres of forestland, and among its many in my tent at night, I’d always thought pirates will have you thinking of that Daniel Day–Lewis/ a title (at the top of the state’s official webpage) rivers the oldest river in America (second oldest conducted their jolly-roger depredations in the

Story and photos by Dennis Coello Caribbean. But Blackbeard made his home town of Front smothered with green trees? The that their long-ago name for this area was in North Carolina for a time, time enough Royal (elevation answer is the soft blue haze of “Land of the Blue Smoke.” to marry his fourteenth wife before engag- 567 feet, only humid air that hovers over Shenandoah – the name of the national ing in his last ship-deck battle just off 70 miles from the forest. park, of course, but depending upon the Ocracoke on the Outer Banks. Tough DC), ride to the Skyline Drive – the speaker and context, it might refer to the cookie to the end, it took “five shot in nearby entrance 105-mile-long two-lane famed river you’ll see running through the him and twenty dismal cuts” before his of Shenandoah road running north valley west of Skyline Drive. Or it might lifeless body was tossed overboard. Well, National Park, to south through the refer to the lovely, fertile valley itself, most of his body, for the head was hung and begin pedal- narrow Shenandoah which during the Civil War was known as beneath the bowsprit and sailed that way ing up Skyline National Park, the “breadbasket of the Confederacy.” You to Williamsburg, Virginia. Drive. Before from Front Royal will be riding several “gaps” – low points It’s nice to know that these two states you reach Great to curving between mountains – that were used by Smoky Mountains near Waynesboro, road addi- Confederate forces to haul food across the National Park at Virginia. The tion of Linn mountains. the southern end, name comes from Cove Viaduct. All right, now you won’t be confused you’ll have ridden However, the by the terminology when, I hope, you 575 miles, reached final welcome mile- consider doing this ride and begin gath- an elevation high post you’ll see at the ering all the free information available point of over 6,000 feet, and climbed a vide some help: parkway’s end still from the parks and states. But what’s the whopping total of nearly 58,000 feet in – that grand, reads 469. best way to experience this great route? doing so. Add a sweet five-mile spur and often mist-enshrouded “eastern rampart The Smokies – the Pannier-less out-and-back day rides for the another 1,390 feet to your total and you of the Appalachian Mountains extending name applied to the high easiest cycling? A fully loaded thru-tour? can pedal to the highest point east of the from southern Pennsylvania to northern range of mountains mostly A group of friends with a van and alter- Mississippi, Mount Mitchell (6,684 feet). Georgia” (cribbed from the single most within and very near Great nating drivers? Or forget the bike, strap By the time you get to that turnoff, you essential item in a Skyline/Blue Ridge Smoky Mountains National Park. on a 50-pound pack, and trek the parallel won’t even notice another uphill. biker’s handlebar bag – Skinner’s They’re part of the Blue Ridge In addition to climbing, it would be Bicycling the Blue Ridge — see Mountain eastern rampart of good if you’re also partial to trees, wildlife, Nuts & Bolts). But why the larger, wider Appalachian mountain streams, short hikes to roaring blue, when all the the loca- Mountain group. The Cherokee waterfalls, colorful wildflowers, scenic mountains here tion of the route (who ruled a multi-state swath overlooks (there are 75 in the first 105 are lovingly – way up there of land for centuries here, prior miles of your ride alone), slower traffic (when viewed from the to their forced removal via the (maximum speed limit of only 35 miles per valleys below) along the Trail of Tears in the early 1800s) have been connected for centuries, and hour for the first hundred miles, 45 miles “sky line.” are supposed to have described nicer still that one of today’s more civi- per hour thereafter), and fellow humans – the these heights, according to the lized links is an “ideal-for-cyclists” wind- not in a hurry to get anywhere. 469-mile-long two-lane road con- , as “shacon- ing two-lane mountain road running from From personal experience, I know necting the southern terminus of age” – meaning “blue, like smoke.” one national park to the other. This ribbon it’s real easy to get mixed up when the Skyline Drive with Great Smoky Today’s town of Cherokee, which of highway (1) allows no commercial traffic new to the names of moun- Mountains National Park (half the park you’ll pedal into if you make a (goodbye, trucks!), (2) prohibits billboards tain chains, parks, and lies in North Carolina, half in Tennessee). left at the bottom of your final (hello, scenery!), and (3) allows us to pedal parkways in these The name is usually shortened to “the mountain descent on the parkway, is the Appalachian National Scenic Trail instead? for almost 600 scenic continuous miles parts, so let Parkway,” less often to “BRP.” Not to sovereign nation of the descendants of (You’ll likely see some of these hardy hik- through these wildly interesting states. It’s me pro- quibble, but just so you’ll know, the total those tribal members who managed not to ers as they tromp this leg of the premier, a biker’s bliss. distance now is 470 miles due to the long be pushed west. The tribe’s website states Georgia-to-Maine 2,200-mile trail, often And that’s not all. This route is a climber’s delight. Saddle up next to the Civil War monument in the small northern Virginia Join the fun in the Great Ohio Bicycle Adventure! June 20-27, 2009 • GOBA’s 21st Annual ride across Ohio!

3,000 People • 7 Days & Nites in June • 350 Miles Presented by Sponsored by It all adds up to the biggest and best bicycle tour in the East! Register Now! 614-273-0811 or www.goba.com

12 adventure cyclist march 2009 adventurecycling.org adventure cyclist march 2009 adventurecycling.org 13 called simply “the AT.”) snowflakes on November 10. I got a late slowly and explains that he lost his heels to Well, since the mid 1980s, I’ve had the start, but the honest reason was that I frostbite at Chosin Reservoir (a tough battle pleasure of doing the parkway and Skyline dawdled. Wait till you find yourself meet- during the Korean War). We rode together Drive in all these ways (except the last, ing interesting, fun people at almost every to where we had lunch with his wife and talked bikes and history for another hour afterward. It’s that kind of place. Know before you go that services along Skyline Drive and the parkway were designed for motorists – not us – and thus are too far apart for riding without forethought. It’s simple to pack more food and water, but get caught stealth camp- ing (sleeping outside a campground) and you’re in real trouble. The Park Service works hard at preserving these routes, plus the gorgeous country surrounding them, in the face of massive visitation by a usually appreciative populace. Do your bit to help them out. The rangers are also adamant about bike lights and reflectors front and rear. Don’t roll your eyes for in addition to fog there are tunnels – some of them long, High and winding. Cyclists on one of many classic S-curved segments of the Blue Ridge Parkway. all of them dark. And they’re numer- Rock lovers dream. The complex geology along the Blue Ridge Parkway provides temporary distraction to interested cyclists. ous. Skyline has only one, but you’ll ride for no matter all the pieces I’ve walked viewpoint, or pull up alongside a fellow through 27 on the Parkway. Saturday morning in October – which There are no white lines delineating shoul- ment of raingear and warm attire even in five different states, I’ve still got about rider who tells you he’s doing 60 miles that Traffic can be considerable, and peak- I later learned had been deemed “peak- ders on either Skyline or BRP, but the two in mid-summer. All the climbing means 2,150 miles to go). And I have loved every day because it’s his sixtieth birthday, that color weekend fall traffic is said to be color weekend” by the Washington Post lanes are wide enough for cars to pass wonderful zooms downhill as well, but way that I’ve pedaled it – even my thru- he “does his birthday years” annually, and heaviest of all. But I managed somehow – and I swear I enjoyed the crowd and easily, if carefully, and the lower speed go unprepared and you’ll be freezing, ride a half dozen years ago that ended in then proceeds to apologize if he’s riding too to begin my thru-ride on a splendid wasn’t honked at maliciously even once. limits help greatly to reduce everyone’s especially if it’s wet. Watch out for acorns (Oddly, I can’t say the same for a few sum- perceived need to go fast. when taking downhill curves in fall, dou- mer Yellowstone rides I’ve taken, another The benefits of mountain scenery and bly so if it’s foggy – and think too about reason to avail oneself of the few-but-cool the lovely otherworldly look and feel of flying around a curve and possibly into off-road routes when there on busy days.) foggy days bring with them a require- the fauna you’d prefer to see at a distance. A South Dakota bike tour will take your breath away. So book now to take advantage Mt. Rushmore Black Hills, of this great 15% South Dakota discount. Early birds must book & prepay by April 1st. Photo by Thomas Close Thomas by Photo

Krakow, Zakopane and the best of Poland's scenic routes on trekking bikes. Transborder cycling adventures through Slovakia, Czech Rep. and Hungary. bike tours Escorted and individual cycle tours, hiking packages. Bike rental in Krakow. For More Information Check our website: www.cycling.pl & Tour Schedule BIRD SERVICE, Sw Krzyza 17, 31-023 Krakow, Poland The Relaxed Adventure Company dakotabiketours.com phone +48 12 2921460 fax +48 12 2921153 e-mail: [email protected]

14 adventure cyclist march 2009 adventurecycling.org adventure cyclist march 2009 adventurecycling.org 15 For example, there are black bears (though they’re reported as “plentiful,” I’ve seen Nuts & Bolts: Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive only two in all my years of riding these routes, and only one of those was uncom- fortably close) and bobcats (I’ve spotted Weather: Spring is an iffy Websites: Start by calling up Cades Cove is open only to bikes 107 Park Headquarters Road only one, too far away for concern and too proposition on all mountains and the excellent National Park and pedestrians on Wednesday Gatlinburg, TN 37738 fast for my camera). And there are those it may decide to stay for good System site of www.nps.gov. Tap and Saturday mornings till 10 (865) 436-1200 stately, staring, acorn-chomping deer that much later than we’d wish. It’s on the states and go from there a.m. Ask too about full-moon somehow manage, at three in the morning this way on Skyline Drive, and to photos, natural history, the rides.) Do a search for “visit Books: For all the reasons I’ve right outside my tent, to sound like an even more so on the higher park- story of how these routes were Virginia” and “visit North Carolina” mentioned above – Bicycling approaching hungry bear. I bet I’ve seen a way. I don’t live close enough to created, and contact information for more tourist information and the Blue Ridge: A Guide to thousand of these slender whitetail beau- hope I’ll hit one of the occasional to request three NPS fold-up free mailings than you’ll prob- the Skyline Drive and the Blue ties, and you will too. blue-sky, lime-green group of brochures (the ones perfectly ably end up reading. Try www. Ridge Parkway (4th edition), You’ll encounter elk only very far south days which do happen before sized for handlebar bag map win- blueridgeparkway.org for general by Elizabeth & Charlie Skinner. along the parkway (or at least that’s been each summer, and so I wait, dows) – Shenandoah National and detailed information about And the immensely entertaining my experience), and I had to go looking along with all the other eager Park, Blue Ridge Parkway, the BRP (including downloadable and informative A Walk in the for them. But on both Skyline and the BRP, riders, for June. But know that and Great Smoky Mountains maps and free mailings). Woods by Bill Bryson. It’s his you’re very likely (if you break camp early the summer months, while they National Park. (Note: traffic in tale of tackling the Appalachian or keep riding late) to race around a tight bring the remarkable flower dis- Great Smoky Mountains National Information: Prefer to avoid the Trail (not by bicycle), and at first blind turn and into a flock of turkeys. plays of rhododendron, mountain Park can be far rougher than computer? Then write or call: glance, it might seem out of They’re a wonderful sight, and the experi- laurel, azalea, and many others, on Skyline and the BRP, but place. But for part of the time, he ence is a fun memory, but no matter how Appalachian history. Cyclists visit a historic cabin in Shenandoah National Park. are also the foggiest of months. don’t miss the Heintooga Round 3655 Hwy 211 parallels the routes you’ll be bik- often it’s happened, I’m always scared wit- Leaf color in late September and Bottom Road if you’ve got a EastLuray, VA 22835 ing and conveys the spirit of the less. Growing up, I wanted to be as tough aren’t in-laws or friends, but I’m plugging or two or three if fog (especially preva- October is hard to beat, but be mountain bike or the absolutely (540) 999-3500 Appalachian Mountains (includ- as Kirk Douglas and as cool as Sal Mineo. their book for having saved me many a lent in summer) becomes too thick, and prepared for early tastes of Old perfect Cades Cove pavement Blue Ridge Parkway ing the Blue Ridge) as expertly It’s rough to be reminded – by a bunch of useless, hungry ride off-route only to find for dropping down to some of the valley Man Winter’s chill – and the too- ride. Check for specific start and 199 Hemphill Knob Road as anything I’ve read – and more birds – that I didn’t make the grade. more trees. towns for a change of scenery and to learn early closing of some services. In stop dates and times, for this can Asheville, NC 28803 poetically than all others. The lack of ugly billboards is a big However you do your riding on this their history. (Just four of my small-town all honesty, I miss the summer’s change from year to year, but (828)298-0398 plus, but it nevertheless leaves you clue- long, superb route, build in time for the favorites – Front Royal and Lexington in press of people at such times. from May through September, Great Smoky Mnts. Nat. Park less about what services might lie hidden working mountain farms (replete with Virginia, Mount Airy and Cherokee in North Carolina. Then there’s the lively city life of Asheville, very close to the You’re very likely (if you break camp early Parkway, if you’re feeling an urban itch.) And a quick final suggestion: take a or keep riding late) to race around a tight hike. That’s right, get out of the saddle, lock your bike at a visitor center or other blind turn and into a flock of turkeys. very public place, and hit one of the many trails heading off into these resplendent woods. A half-hour of walking will likely by the trees a short distance away. Even a park interpreters in gingham dresses and alter your entire notion of distance, of the minor investigation often means hurtling overalls), for visitor center displays on the massive scale of the world, of how fast we down steep grades and thus up them on Indians who were here before them (and bikers travel in comparison and, we have the return. Again, consider the Skinner who in some places, like the Cherokee, still to admit it, all that we miss while enjoying Small Group Guided or Self-Guided guide. I’ve never met the authors and they are), for being able to handle a layover day the speed and ease of rubber on the road. Come to Nova Scotia with us this summer! Also Quebec, PEI, Newfoundland, Europe, Iceland, Israel, Japan & Central America. Need aNother iNceNtive? neeD an excuSe to get back on the SaDDle? Join us for an april, may or June 1-800-672-0775 tour, and we’ll throw in one free www.freewheelingadventures.com $200 off hotel night before or after your trip. per person on any 2009 trip booked before March 31, 2009 (Some reStrictionS apply) www.experienceplus.com Dream, DiScover anD explore. life iS waiting experiencepluS! 800-685-4565

16 adventure cyclist march 2009 adventurecycling.org adventure cyclist march 2009 adventurecycling.org 17 Groping greenery. A misty morning envelops cyclists riding through the Skyline Drive’s lush hardwood forests.

The quiet, the solitude, the look and smell on trees and rocks to guide these stoic folk bike, and know that even if I’m “fully of the woods, it’s all ours for the price of across the continent, to walk a little of loaded,” I’m not wearing my panniers on just a few minutes. their route and imagine how they might my back. While in Shenandoah National Park, have felt when eyeing the very same blaze, you can buy thin hiking guides for $2, wondering if they’d begun in Maine or in Dennis Coello is a bicycle-touring veteran and a long- time writer and photographer for Adventure Cyclist. each light enough for a handlebar bag Georgia, if they’d had run-ins with bears His photography has appeared in Outside, Backpacker, or pannier. One covers hikes to water- – or if, like us, they’re thru-hikers or day Outdoor Photographer, and the catalogs of Patagonia falls, another to peaks and vistas, but my hikers or doing the trail over a series of and numerous other outdoor companies. He has also worked with many other cycling companies, including favorite is Easy Hikes on the Appalachian years, one section at a time. thewaytogo Austin-Lehman Adventures, Backroads, Bike Vermont, National Scenic Trail. It’s always a kick for But the far bigger kick is to turn Butterfield & Robinson, and VBT. For more informa- me to come upon the white blazes painted around after an hour, head back to my tion about Dennis, visit www.denniscoello.com.

All Rides Are Not Created Equal 714-267-4591 Cycling Escapes new routes • new regions • new tours

6 Days in Utah on our new website 6 National Parks 454 Miles 26,000’ ascent www.irondonkey.com www.cyclingescapes.com

18 adventure cyclist march 2009 adventurecycling.org