China Birding April 23 – May 9, 2013 with Chris Leahy
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China Birding April 23 – May 9, 2013 with Chris Leahy Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504 China Birding April 23-May 9, 2013 with Chris Leahy Dear Travelers, In the 1980’s, as China began to open more and more areas to foreign tourism, Mass Audubon’s Natural History Travel program was among the first to explore the rich potential of the Middle Kingdom as a rewarding birding destination. Together with small groups of intrepid travelers, I, and others sampled Chinese habitats from Manchuria to Hainan Island and the Yangze flood plain to the peaks of Sichuan. These were great adventures, revealing many spectacular birds and habitats and reaching some remote areas that few Westerners had then visited. But we also discovered a basic formula that applied to our unusual travel objectives: Where the birding was good, the accommodations were likely to range from basic to appalling. And then came Tienanmen, and tourism in China collapsed for a time. Changes in China during the last two decades have of course been astonishing, and among the very positive ones have been the opening of many more opportunities for wilderness travel and vast improvements in travel logistics and accommodations. Now it is possible to explore remote forests, wetlands and deserts, to experience China’s rich cultural heritage, to sample the best of China’s world class cuisine, and connect with the Chinese people, all in relative comfort – if not always luxury. In short, we have decided it’s time to go back! Consequently, Mass Audubon has partnered with WildChina, the award winning travel company that specializes in “exploring the real China off the beaten path” in creating a customized itinerary that combines superb birding experiences with visits to some of China’s most celebrated historical and cultural sites. China is a huge country with far too many fascinating places to visit in one three week trip. However we think that the itinerary detailed below is a wonderful combination of Chinese highlights that no one should miss and out-of-the way Edens that few have sampled. We hope it will be the first of a series of natural history China tours that will eventually reach all corners of a country whose richness the West is just beginning to discover. For those who wish, we can begin with an optional pre-trip tour to Hong Kong where we will have time to sample the internationally renowned congregations of shore and marsh birds at Mai Po marshes and Deep Bay. We then fly to Kunming- the capital of Yunnan province and “City of Eternal Springs,” our base for exploring the bird-rich mountain forests near the Burmese border. Returning to Kunming we will catch a connecting flight north to X’ian to pay a visit to the famous army of terracotta warriors, one of the most remarkable archeological discoveries of all time followed by a visit to the Changqing Nature Reserve which protects some of China’s rarest wildlife. The final leg of our jouney takes us to Beijing where we will take time to visit the Forbidden City and make a day’s excursion to the Great Wall. However, our last stop will be at the resort town of Beidaihe, a few hours northeast of the capital, where spring bird migration will be in full swing. A detailed itinerary with some of the bird highlights follows below. Join us! Christopher Leahy Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504 China Birding April 23-May 9, 2013 with Chris Leahy DAY-TO-DAY ITINERARY Pre-Trip Day 1 – Sunday, April 21. Arrive Hong Kong There is no program planned, but if you wish, you can book a city tour. But most of you may want to simply rest up from the long journey, before the exciting birding adventure that begins tomorrow. Overnight: Mira Hotel /Meal: D Pre-Trip Day 2 – Monday, April 22. Mai Po Nature Reserve and Deep Bay Our arrival in Hong Kong coincides with that of thousands of shorebird and songbird migrants en route to their Siberian breeding grounds. At this season it is possible to see an exceptional variety of “eastern” shorebirds in the remaining unspoiled coastal wetlands, including fara Eastern Curlew, Nordmann’s Greenshank, Asiatic Dowithcher, Great Knot, and (if very lucky) Spoon- billed Sandpiper – all in breeding plumage. Other possible waterbird specialties of the area include Black-faced Spoonbill, Chinese Egret, and Saunder’s Gull. If time allows we may also beat the bushes at some well-known land bird migrant “traps.” Overnight: Mira Hotel /Meals: B ,L, D Pre-Trip Day 3 / Main Program: Day 1 – Tuesday, April 23. Hong Kong to Kunming After an hour’s flight we’ll arrive in Kunming, the City of Eternal Springs. Main Program: Day 1 – Tuesday, April 23. Kunming Upon our arrival at Kunming airport, we will transfer to our hotel. As time allows, we will bird the nearby Western Hills, an area of mixed forest that attracts a variety of resident and migrant thrushes, warblers, babblers, sunbirds, and others, keeping a sharp lookout for the stunning Lady Amherst’s Pheasant. The area around the Green Lake, where our hotel is situated, is a charming area surrounded by little teahouses and cafes as well as small shops selling souvenirs and paintings, and we will have the evening open to explore. Overnight: Green Lake Hotel (5-star)/Meal: D Day 2 – Wednesday, April 24. Kunming – Baoshan - Baihualing and Gaoligong Nature Reserve We will take an early morning flight to Baoshan (45 minutes) and then drive 3 hours to Baihualing, passing through farming communities of the Dai people and increasingly spectacular mountain scenery. We’ll make regular birding, photo, and comfort stops. We arrive in Baihualing in the early afternoon, a small village tucked away in the Gaoligong Mountain range near the Burmese border. It lies on the Southern Silk Road connecting India, Afghanistan and Pakistan with central China since the 4th century B.C., making this region a significant area for cultural exchange throughout history. There are currently 450 families of Han, Bai, Lisu, Yi, Hui, and Dai ethnic minorities living in eight hamlets that surround the reserve. The variety of habitats, including much largely undisturbed forest, make for excellent birding. In Baihualing, we will stay at the Baihualing Guest House which is the only choice in this area. Conditions will be quite basic with twin beds, simple pillow, quilt, public showers, and clean Eastern toilets located outside the building. Overnight: Baihualin Guest House /Meals: B, L, D Day 3&4 – Thursday, April 25. Birding at Baihualing The Gaoligongshan Nature Reserve protects over a million acres of montane forest and other habitats ranging in altitude from 688 to 16,000 feet. The largest nature reserve in Yunnan province, it is of global significance and has been designated as a World Biosphere Reserve. For the next two days, we will explore various habitats of this spectacular reserve as thoroughly as we can. Encountering a mixed flock of forest birds in the highlands of this part of Asia can be one of the most exciting birding experiences on the planet, with dozens of laughing thrushes, mesias, yuhinas, fuvettas, parrotbills, tits, and other forest birds, sometimes appearing in such numbers and variety that one can’t decide where to look. And that Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504 China Birding April 23-May 9, 2013 with Chris Leahy neglects to mention the species of pheasants, raptors, barbets and other non-flocking birds that also occur. In all, at least 485 bird species have been identified in the reserve. The forest also contains many rare mammals including Hoolock Gibbon and other species of primates and cats (always elusive), and the park flora contains over 1,000 species, many of which we can hope to see in bloom during our visit. To take full advantage of our time here we will arise early and possibly take along picnic breakfasts as well as lunches. Overnight: Baihualing Guest House Meals: B, L, D Day 5 – Friday, April 26. Baihualing - Tengchong This morning we will have our last opportunity for birdwatching in the Gaoligong Nature Reserve. Then we travel for several hours heading towards Tengchong. En route, we will follow the Salween River, also known as the Nu (“Angry”) River in Chinese. The name makes sense when you get a glimpse of how the river water roars down the valley. As usual we will make periodic stops. We’ll get to Tengchong in the late afternoon. Tengchong was another important station on the Southern Silk Road, and it now draws great numbers of domestic visitors, thanks to its jade processing sales centers and geothermal hot springs. For us it will be our base for exploring another good birding spot – and a welcome opportunity to relax in accommodations that rise above the “basic.” Overnight: Tengchong Guanfang Hotel (5-star)/Meals: B, L, D Day 6 – Saturday, April 27. Lai Feng Shan Departing early we will arrive after an hour’s drive at Lai Feng Shan National Forest Park . With its wide flagstone path through the hillside forest; its temple and its open summit with a charming pagoda, the park mixes ancient Chinese tradition with excellent birding. After taking in the stunning panorama from the summit, we will spend the morning walking downhill looking for the likes of Silver Pheasant, Brown-winged parrotbill and Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler. We will enjoy a simple packed lunch at the forest park and then visit a 600-year-old village just outside of Tengchong – Heshun Village, a trading hub on the Southern Silk Road.