The Best of the Maritime Provinces

THE BEST OF THE MARITIME 1 PROVINCES lanning a trip to Atlantic Canada shouldn’t be hard, yet the number of small towns, quaint inns, and potential driving Proutes makes it a bit complex. These are my suggestions for some of the best destinations and experiences. THE best ACTIVE VACATIONS W Sea Kayaking in Nova Scotia: The twisting, convoluted coastline of this province is custom-made for snooping around by sea kayak. Outfit- ters are scattered around the province. For expedition kayaking, contact outfitter Coastal Adventures (www.coastaladventures.com) about a current schedule of trips. See chapter 4. W Biking the Cabot Trail (Nova Scotia): The long, strenuous loop around Cape Breton Highlands National Park is tough on the legs, but serious cyclists will come away with a head full of indelible memories. See “Cape Breton Island” in chapter 4. W Exploring Fundy National Park and Vicinity (New Brunswick): You’ll find swimming, hiking, and kayaking at this coastal national park. And don’t overlook biking in the hills east of the park, or the outdoors center at Cape Enrage. See “Fundy National Park” in chapter 5. W Cycling Prince Edward Island: This province sometimes seems like it was created specifically for bike touring. Villages are reasonably spaced apart, hills are virtually nonexistent, the coastal roads are picturesque in the extreme, and an island-wide bike path offers detours through marshes and quiet woodlands. See “The Great Outdoors” in chapter 6. COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL THE best SPOTS FOR OBSERVING NATURE W Digby Neck (Nova Scotia): Choose from among the whale-watching outfitters located along this narrow peninsula of remote fishing villages. And simply getting to the tip of the peninsula is half the fun—it requires two ferries. See “Digby to Yarmouth” in chapter 4. 004_9781118133484-ch01.indd4_9781118133484-ch01.indd 1 44/10/12/10/12 111:301:30 AAMM W Cape Breton Highlands National Park (Nova Scotia): The craggy geology on the 1 west side of this headland is impressive enough, but don’t let it overshadow the rest of the park, where you’ll find bogs, moose, and plenty of quiet spots. See “Cape Breton Highlands National Park” in chapter 4. W Grand Manan Island (New Brunswick): This big, geologically intriguing rock off the New Brunswick coast is a great base for learning about coastal ecology. Whale- tour operators search out the endangered right whale and dozens of birds roost and pass through. Boat tours from the island will also take you out to see puffins. See “Grand Manan Island” in chapter 5. W Hopewell Rocks (New Brunswick): The force of Fundy’s tremendous tides is most The Best Scenic Drives impressive at Hopewell Rocks, where great rock “sculptures” created by the winds and tides rise from the ocean floor at low tide. See “Fundy National Park” in chapter 5. THE best SCENIC DRIVES W Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail (Nova Scotia): This 300km (185-mile) loop through the uplands of Cape Breton Highlands National Park is one of the world’s great excur- sions. You’ll see Acadian fishing ports, pristine valleys, and some of the most picturesque coastline anywhere. See “Cape Breton Island” in chapter 4. W Cobequid Bay (Nova Scotia): When it comes to scenery, Cobequid Bay (near Truro) is one of the region’s better-kept secrets. The bay is flanked by two roads: Route 2 runs from Parrsboro to Truro, Route 215 from South Maitland to Brook- lyn. Take the time to savor the rocky cliffs, muddy flats, and rust-colored bays. See “Chignecto Bay, Minas Basin & Cobequid Bay” in chapter 4. W Fundy Trail Parkway (New Brunswick): East of Saint John, you’ll find this parkway winding along the contours of the coast. Get out and stretch your legs at any of the two dozen lookouts along the way for fantastic cliffside views. Or if the tides are THE BEST OF MARITIME PROVINCES out, clamber down to one of the stretches of sand nestled between the rocks. See “Saint John” in chapter 5. W St. John River Valley (New Brunswick): Once the best way of traveling into the interior of New Brunswick, this 730km (454-mile) river is steeped in history. It finds its way almost to Québec, passing through fabulous bird-watching and boat- ing areas, gorgeous gorges, lovely towns and villages, and the provincial capital, Fredericton. Follow the roads closest to the river for the best experience. See “Fredericton” in chapter 5. W Prince Edward Island National Park: Much of the north central shore of PEI is part of a national park. The quiet park road tracks along the henna-tinted cliffs and grass-covered dunes. The coastal road is interrupted by inlets in spots, but each segment is still worth a leisurely drive, with frequent stops to explore the beaches and walkways. See “Prince Edward Island National Park” in chapter 6. THE best HIKES & RAMBLES W Point Pleasant Park (Nova Scotia): Overlooking the entrance to Halifax’s harbor, Point Pleasant Park is a wonderful urban oasis, with wide trails for strolling along the water. Check out the Martello tower atop a wooded rise. See “Halifax” in chapter 4. 2 004_9781118133484-ch01.indd4_9781118133484-ch01.indd 2 44/10/12/10/12 111:301:30 AAMM Atlantic Canada 1 Resolution I. GREENLAND THE BEST OF MARITIME PROVINCES Resolution I. (Denmark) ((Nunavut)Nunavut) AAkpatokkpatok I.I. ((Nunavut)Nunavut) C.C .Chidley Chidley Ungava L A Bay L LABRADOR B . HHebronebron R R A oak SEA oks A K NNutakutak D B G O e NNainain o r B g R a e l R DDavisavis e . i R IInletnlet n e & R . CCaniapiscauaniapiscau N RRes.es. A PPostvilleostville E W N RRigoletigolet a The Best Hikes & Rambles s D CCartwrightartwright F SSmallwoodmallwood RRes.es. k CChurchillhurchill a u p LL.. MMelvilleelville O C FFallsalls i hu LLabradorabrador r HHappyappy VValley-alley- O U chi CCityity ll R. GGooseoose BBayay AAtikonaktikonak LL.. N R Méc a GGagnonagnon t D i n RReded BBayay a SSt.t . AAnthonynthony R L MManicouagananicouagan . RRes.es. QQUÉBECU É B E C PPortort aauu A CChoixhoix CC.. St.St .John John N SSept-Îlesept-Îles NNatashquanatashquan D A nti BBaie-aie- cos GGrandrand FFalls-alls- ti Isla CCornerorner WWindsorindsor GGanderander CComeauomeau iver nd e R BBrookrook enc BBonavistaonavista wr SStephenvilletephenville NNEWFOUNDLANDEWFOUNDLAND La GGaspéaspé t. Gaspé Pen. S RRimouskiimouski GULF OF MMaelpaegaelpaeg St.St. John’sJohn’s RRivière-ivière- ST. LAWRENCE RRes.es. BBurgeourgeo ddu-Loupu-Loup Iles de la C. Ray CConceptiononception Madeleine C BBurinurin PPen.en. BBayay SSouthouth EEdmundstondmundston BBathurstathurst ab AAvalonvalon Pen.Pen. (Que.) ot S ST. PIERRE & NNewcastleewcastle PPRINCERINCE t TTrepasseyrepassey CCaribouaribou PRINCE ra MIQUELON NNEWE W i (France) EEDWARDDEWDWAARRDD t BRUNSWICKB R U N S W I C K IISLANDSILSALANNDD Cape Breton I. HHoultonoulton CCharlottetownharlottetown Glace Bay SSydneyydney FFrederictonredericton MMonctononcton NNewew C. Breton UU.S.A..S.A. SSaintaint GGlasgowlasgow I A MMAINEAINE JJohnohn TTruroruro T C O EEastportastport of WWindsorindsor S ay y A ATLANTIC BBangorangor BBay nofd O V FundyFu N HalifaxHalifax BBarar BBridgewaterridgewater LLunenburgunenburg OCEAN HHarborarbor YYarmoutharmouth SaSableble I .I. C. Sable 0 200 mi 0 200 km 3 004_9781118133484-ch01.indd4_9781118133484-ch01.indd 3 44/10/12/10/12 111:301:30 AAMM W Cape Breton Highlands National Park (Nova Scotia): There are certainly lots of 1 quiet, contemplative walks on Cape Breton, but the best trails follow rugged cliffs along open ocean. The Skyline Trail is among the most dramatic walkways in Canada. See “Cape Breton Highlands National Park” in chapter 4. W Grand Manan Island (New Brunswick): Grand Manan is laced with informal walking trails passing through forests and along the ocean’s edge. This is a place for exploring; ask around locally for suggestions on the best hikes. See “Grand Manan Island” in chapter 5. W The Fundy Trail (New Brunswick): Forward-thinking planners created this trail so that it can be walked, biked, or driven. Walking is best for the spectacular views of cliffs, waterfalls, and the Bay of Fundy, and the trail also offers lookouts, footpaths The Best Family Activities to beaches, foot bridges, and wildlife spotting. Accessed from St. Martins. See “Saint John” in chapter 5. W The Confederation Trail (Prince Edward Island): This pathway across the island is best for long-distance cycling, but it’s superb for a quiet stroll in spots along the path. See “Kings County” in chapter 6. THE best FAMILY ACTIVITIES W Upper Clements Park (Nova Scotia): About 5 minutes south of Annapolis Royal, this old-fashioned amusement park is full of low-key attractions that delight kids. Highlights include a flume ride (originally built for Expo ’86 in Vancouver) and a wooden roller coaster that twists and winds through trees left standing during the coaster’s construction. See “Annapolis Royal” in chapter 4. W Waterfront Walk (Nova Scotia): Halifax’s waterfront walk is filled with fun distrac- tions, from the province’s best museum to ships you can climb onto and explore. Also look for sweeping views of the bustling harbor. If you’re here in early August during the internationally famous Busker Festival, lend an ear. See “Halifax” in chapter 4. THE BEST OF MARITIME PROVINCES W Kings Landing (New Brunswick): At this living history museum, young kids are introduced to life in early Canada between 1790 and 1910. Ask about the week- long sessions designed to immerse kids in the past. See chapter 5. W Prince Edward Island’s Beaches: Choose between the red-sand beaches of the south shore or the white sand of the north. It’s hard to beat a day or three splashing around these lukewarm waters while admiring the pastoral island landscapes.

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