SPRING 2015

Dorothy Cann Hamilton Facilitates U.S. Pavilion in Milan

Dorothy Cann Hamilton (New York) is raising $60 million to fund "American Food 2.0" at the 2015 World’s Fair.

ALSO INSIDE - Legacy Award Winners’ Reports; LDEI Board Meeting in Newport Beach; Seattle Chapter’s 25th Anniversary. ABOUT THE COVER Chefs (see page 5); U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry with Dorothy Cann Hamilton; renderings of the U.S. pavilion; International Culinary Center in New York.

from the editor From the Pasture WINTER 2 O15 Spring green: tiny leaves on trees; tulip foliage pointing skyward; lush grass spiking from the pasture. Also “in the pasture” are almost all the 24 In This Issue LDEI Past Presidents (PP). But they are not resting on their bay leaves. As PP#9 Pam Williams (British Colum- FEATURES bia), wrote, “We are like Energizer bunnies—we just keep going Dorothy Cann Hamilton and going and going!” 4 Indeed. PP#6 Nancy Brussat Barocci (Chicago) emailed me 8 LDEI Board Meets from her hospital bed as she recovered from hip replacement sur- in Newport Beach gery, “Us Dames r strong women. Sent from my iPhone.” As you’ll see in my article on pages 16-17, concluding our terms 9 Meet the Board as past presidents is only the beginning of additional achievements in culinary careers and philanthropic work. 12 2014 LDEI Legacy Awards PP#13 (my lucky number; no triskaidekaphobia here)—me, well, you’re holding what I’m doing: the LDEI Quarterly. I’m also 15 Seattle Chapter Celebrates chairing the M.F.K. Fisher Award Contest and have served on my 25th Anniversary chapter board for many years since I was your leader in 2003. Three LDEI past presidents have passed away, but they created 16 LDEI Past Presidents brands so strong they survived these innovative Dames. Our first LDEI President, Alabama-born Jeanne Appleton Voltz (New 18 Boston Conference Coverage York), passed away after a short illness of respiratory disease. Jeanne is still known for her barbecue cookbooks and for being the food 21 Gloria Cabral editor of Women’s Day magazine from 1973-1984. PP#14 Gretchen Mathers (Seattle), who served as my first vice DEPARTMENTS president, lost a hard-fought battle with cancer in 2007, but her Shoebox Express continues to deliver gourmet lunches in her 22 Chapter News signature red trucks. You can still buy books on Amazon.com by food-processor queen PP#11 Abby Mandel (Chicago), who died 26 Member Milestones of mantle cell lymphoma in 2008. Submission Guidelines Of the other 20, many are still operating their businesses, writing 31 blogs, and are crucial board members of LDEI and other non-prof- its. Some of these women are past their seventh or eighth decade! Could it be that strong, Type-A women who have been elevated to lead more than 1,800 other achieving women—themselves chosen for their high accomplishments in culinary careers—are just wired to continue good works? See for yourself the current and future crop of culinary contributors throughout this issue. “Us Dames r strong women.” —CiCi Williamson, Editor, Spring Quarterly

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PResident's Message 2015 LDEI Board of Directors The mission of the LDEI Board is to Setting the Morale of LDEI foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters and by implementing program initiatives. Chef Gloria Cabral (Boston), featured in this It provides leadership, guidance, issue for volunteering on Navy ships said, “The education, connectivity, and effective cook is the morale of the ship.” I assert that communication among LDEI members. we—all of us chefs, writers, educators, caterers, President authors, merchants, etc.—are the “morale” of Lori Willis LDEI. Within our chapters we connect with Director of Communications people on an emotional basis and everyone we Schnuck Markets, Inc. 11420 Lackland Rd. serve is lifted in different ways; some of which Ballwin, MO 63146-3559 are outlined in this message. (314) 994-4602 | [email protected] But first, congratulations to the Seattle First Vice President Dames on their 25th anniversary and for set- Maria Gomez-LAURENS ting such a fine example of service for all of us! Manager, Hospitality, HelmsBriscoe 11241 Avenida del Gato Established chapters are the backbone of LDEI San Diego, CA 92126 and the heart of our history. And, new chap- (858) 633-7515 | [email protected] ters, like Nashville, are part of our future and Second Vice President together we set the plan for staying relevant in Ann Stratte today’s world. Owner, My Personal Chef 100 Severn Avenue, #506 Part of that plan unfolded at the LDEI Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 Board’s first face-to-face meeting and site visit (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] in Orange County in January. In just two Third Vice President months since the Boston Conference, we were Hayley Jo Matson-Mathes Owner/Culinary Consultant able to share significant progress toward our 2333 Kapiolani Blvd #3516 annual goals and priorities: Communications, Honolulu, HI 96826 Transparency, Growth, Strengthening Our (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] Brand, and our Value Proposition. Secretary Sharon M. Olson Let’s start with communications and get- used to more powerfully demonstrate LDEI’s ting the LDEI name out there! Media releases Executive Director, Culinary Visions® Panel value to our membership, our partners and 345 North Canal Street, Apt. 1407 through social and traditional means are others who deserve to know how much THEY Chicago, IL 60606 calling attention to organizational priorities are accomplishing through LDEI. (312) 280-4573 | [email protected] including the call to enter for LDEI’s M.F. K. Our new partner development team is in full Treasurer Fisher Award, retooled in December to add Stacy Zeigler swing, and commitments are already coming Director of Sales, Bold American Events more prizes. in for 2015! This means more time to develop 2929 Surrey Lane The Board is focused on growth of all types meaningful and mutually beneficial partner Atlanta, GA 30341 including members and chapters, diversity opportunities for a well-rounded conference (678) 302-3232 | [email protected] (professions and backgrounds), depth and experience! Chapter Board Liaisons breadth of programs including conference, Deborah Mintcheff Charleston Dames are on track to build Project & Ckbk Editor/Food Writer/Copy Editor/ partner participation, and finances. another impressive conference, so please mark Recipe Devel/Co-Active Life Coach We are currently mentoring two potential your calendars because we will be “Doin’ the Live Forward Coaching new chapters including Mexico, and a Board Charleston” October 29 – November 1! 129 East 69th Street committee is reviewing new chapter formation New York, NY 10021-5000 Remember, “We are the morale of LDEI,” (212) 879-0383 | [email protected] procedures to clarify requirements for charter and as we work together over the coming Deborah Orrill members. To reinforce connectivity, board months, I invite you to call or write to the Culinary Consultant members continue to visit chapters as part of Board or CBLs with questions, ideas, sugges- 64 Vanguard Way their personal travels. Dallas, TX 75243 tions or requests for visits. We will do our best (214) 343-0124 | [email protected] The Annual Report has been expanded to in- to accommodate you, to stay connected and clude Brock Circle funds. We started 2015 off Bev Shaffer keep this momentum going! Corporate Chef, Vitamix World Headquarters strong by welcoming Washington DC and San Finally, remember Chef Cabral’s words and 3433 Blake Road Antonio into the Circle bringing our total to consider that whatever each of us brings to the Seville, OH 44273 (440) 781-7202 | [email protected] 44 members! The Board is brainstorming“Big table helps define us as an organization. We are Ideas” for putting that fund to work. Just hav- the morale of Les Dames d’Escoffier. Immediate Past President ing the vision and foresight to create the Brock Beth Allen Founder/President, Beth Allen Associates Inc Circle goes a long way toward demonstrating 347 W 22nd Street, Suite #9 fiscal health and brand strength. New York, NY 10011-4683 We ask all chapters to report estimated 2013- (212) 206-1138 | [email protected] 2014 contributions to scholarships and chari- Lori Willis Executive Director ties on CBL calls. This information will be President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International Greg Jewell President, AEC Management Resources P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected]

SPRING Quarterly 2015 3 Dorothy Cann Hamilton Facilitates U.S. Pavilion in Milan

Dorothy Cann Hamilton (New York) is raising $60 million to fund "American Food 2.0" at the 2015 World’s Fair.

Top: Renderings of U.S. Pavilion; Chef Story TV show with Tom Colicchio of “Top Chef.” Above: Dorothy receives IACP Award; students at ICC; Chef Henri Viain teaches at ICC. Opposite Page From left: Alan Richman, Andre Soltner, Emily Lucchetti, Alain Salihac, David Kinch, Jacques Torres, Jacques Pepin, Jose Andres, and Dorothy; Bobby Flay speaks at ICC graduation in Carnegie Hall; entrance to ICC.

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International “Who would want an English major who could speak Thai? I was totally unemployable!”

By CiCi Williamson (Washington) Dorothy Cann Hamilton (New York) is raising $60 When choosing a college, she decided to go to million to fund the U.S. Pavilion at Expo Milano, another country where she could speak English, and the 2015 World’s Fair. At the same time, she she was accepted at the University of Newcastle upon is also CEO of the vaunted International Tyne in northeast England to study English Literature Culinary Center (ICC), which she founded and Philosophy. as The French Culinary Institute (FCI) in “Back then, British institutional food was just awful. 1984. It’s the equivalent of working two I came to my love of French food a whole different mammoth, fulltime jobs. way. I bonded with French girls at the University, and To understand how a little girl who one of these friends had a kitchen at school. She used grew up in Brooklyn got to this intersec- to whip up homemade Dijon vinaigrette, not bottled tion requires a path rewind. Born with a salad dressing. I ate for the first time cheese that spoon in her mouth (she is quick to say, wasn’t orange and fresh yogurt. I also went to their “—not a silver spoon!”) on the upper homes in France and enjoyed all the foods there.” west side of New York City, Dorothy’s After receiving her Bachelor’s Degree, Dorothy didn’t love of food came from her grand- want to move back to the U.S. because the Viet- mother, Katherine Kuzmyak. Emigrat- nam War was raging. She decided to join the Peace ing from Czechoslovakia in 1906, she Corps and was sent to Thailand to teach English. She was a cook who worked in the New lectured at Mahidol University, Bangkok, and taught York Stock Exchange restaurant. English at teacher-training colleges around the coun- “In Brooklyn, food was a culture in try. “It was idyllic living in Phuket for 3 months with itself. Men driving trucks would come two girls and a guy. The war was going on, so there by and sell fresh vegetables. We had were no tourists. Thai food was great,” said Dorothy. fantastic pizza in the 1960s; Jewish “After finishing my Peace Corps work in 1974, I rye bread, ‘cornbread’ (rye bread made wanted to indulge my love of French food. Not many with cornmeal), and original bagels— French restaurants existed at the time. My dream was not the giant ones sold today.” to open a French restaurant in Hawaii—halfway be- Dorothy said, “We always had deli- tween the Orient and New York. But I had no fund- cious meals at home. Every Sunday, ing. There were also no Thai restaurants in the U.S. my grandmother cooked three types of then; Thai foods were brought back with the GIs.” meat, many veggies, poppyseed cake, She moved back to New York but couldn’t get a job. and, of course, pierogi.” (Dorothy “Who would want an English major who could speak still has a soft spot for pierogi.) “Back Thai?” she asked. “I was totally unemployable! But my then in Brooklyn, most people were father came to the rescue. He was in the Navy during Irish, Italian, or Jewish. I didn’t fit into WWII, and had to teach men very quickly. He per- that ethnic scheme,” revealed Dorothy. fected total-immersion training. After the war ended, In the third grade, she transferred from he started teaching air conditioning maintenance in public to Catholic school, and the kids the basement of our home in Brooklyn. asked her, “Are you Irish or Italian?” “I’m “I became a receptionist at my father’s Apex Tech- Czechoslovakian,” she replied. They said, nical School and loved working with the students! “You have to choose which one to hang out It was empowering. I progressed to be head of my with,” so Dorothy chose the Irish. father’s school. This led me to initiate a French cook- Seeing planes overhead from Kennedy Airport ing school. First I was invited as a vocational educa- made Dorothy want to be on a flight to Europe. tor to visit the top cooking school in Paris, Ferrandi.

SPRING Quarterly 2015 5 Utilizing a total immersion training protocol, we were able to take its companion book. Her book on culinary careers, Love What You Ferrandi’s 2-year course and condense into an intensive 6-month Do: Building a Career in the Culinary Industry, was published in the training program. fall of 2009. “Back in New York City, I got seed capital from my father and Dorothy has received remarkable accolades, including being rented a space in industrial, pre-fashionable Soho. The rent was decorated by the French government with the Legion d’ Honneur; only $5 per square foot. In my first class of 11 students was Bobby “Entrepreneur of the Year” from the International Association Flay, a high-school dropout who later got his GED and blossomed of Culinary Professionals; “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in after working in a restaurant owned by his father. Bobby is still a big America” from the James Beard Foundation; “Silver Spoon” from supporter of my school, and he gave the commencement address at Food Arts magazine; “Outstanding American Educator” from Ma- Carnegie Hall in April 2014.” drid Fusion; and many more. FCI grew at the same location. “Initially I brought in teachers in from Paris such as Antoine Schaefer. Jim Peterson taught at my Expo Milano 2015 school for the first few years. We won the respect of all the French From May 1 to October 31, 2015, the U.S.A. will join in welcom- chefs in New York. For the first 10 years, we taught only basic ing more than 20 million visitors to the world’s fair in Milan, Italy. classes. In the early 90s Jacques Torres wrote our Professional Pastry For the first time in the history of world’s fairs, the theme of Expo course while he was the head chef at Le Cirque. Then Jacques Pepin Milano is food: “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life.” This theme came over and joined us in 1989 after the first five years in the U.S. will unite 140-plus countries into action around the challenges and He became dean of our Culinary Techniques course. We added arti- opportunities facing our global food system and the sustainable sanal bread in the late 1990s, and in 2007, world-renowned Tuscan development of our planet. chef, Cesare Casella, developed our Italian course—the only authen- Were it not for Dorothy, the U.S. might not have been represented. tic Italian cooking school in the U.S. It includes 10 weeks of Italian She became involved in bringing to fruition an American pavilion cooking classes in New York, then 18 weeks in Italy outside Parma. via the ICC’s Italian school, working with the Italians and the Italian Students do side trips, and then during the last nine weeks, work in government. The Italians wanted America to participate in Expo Mi- Italian restaurants. We have about 50 to 60 students per year, and lano. “First we had to have the U.S. Department of State’s blessing, al- 300 have now graduated from this program,” said Dorothy. though the State Department could not give any funding,” explained “The school busted out at the seams and became very international. Dorothy. The Italians called her and said, “We need a white knight, That’s why we changed the name to ICC. We have students from 83 someone important in food to jump up and down to get the attention different countries and count 29 Michelin stars among our graduates,” of the State Department and convince them to participate.” she said. “We’re getting requests from all over the world to open cook- “Mitchell Davis, Executive Vice President of the James Beard Foun- ing schools. In 2010, we opened our California campus in Campbell.” dation, and I came up with concepts and pitched the pavilion idea to “I stand on the shoulders of over 200 people who work at the the State Department. State put out a request for proposal (RFP), and schools. I’m not a chef,” Dorothy confides. I’m not responsible for I said, ‘Are you crazy? I run a cooking school, not a pavilion.’ But we teaching.” ICC has world-renowned chefs as its deans including wrote an 88-page proposal in 2013, and it was accepted.” Jacques Pépin, José Andrés, and Jacques Torres as well as more than What was involved in raising $60 million in private funds to build 15,000 notable alumni including chefs Bobby Flay, David Chang, a 40,000-square-foot pavilion? They knocked on a lot of doors and Wylie Dufresne, Dan Barber, and Christina Tosi. pitched the pavilion idea about how the whole world would look at Dorothy and her ICC support the LDEI mission. The head of the the U.S. from a food point of view. Together with the James Beard school is a woman, Candy Argondizza, and many women are on the Foundation, she will curate hundreds of various cultural programs faculty. Her daughter, Olivia Hamilton, is studying marketing at college and events that will take place at the pavilion. and is very interested in culinary fields, having worked at the Aman The pavilion, named “American Food 2.0, United to Feed the Resort in Bali and a few fine dining establishments in the States. Planet,” was designed by award-winning architect, James Biber. In between school expansions, Dorothy found time to earn an It pays homage to our rich agricultural history by using an open M.B.A. from NYU’s Stern Business School and graduated from the design whose exterior is a large vertical, hydroponic farm that Owner/President Management (OPM) program at Harvard Busi- will be harvested daily by acrobats and robotics. Dorothy said, ness School. She also created and hosted Chef’s Story, presently a “Picture a football field standing on its long side. That’s the size weekly radio program on the Heritage Radio Network and in 2007, of the wall bearing the farm.” a Chef’s Story 26-part PBS-television series of half-hour interviews The fully sustainable building features a boardwalk made from and cooking segments with renowned chefs. Dorothy is co-author of

USA Food Truck Nation James Beard American Restaurant Facets The food-truck trend taking hold Located in central Milan for the duration of at the across the U.S. will find its way to Expo, the James Beard American restaurant will Expo Milano, where “trucks” will showcase American cuisine with a rotating roster Expo serve a rotating menu of iconic and of American culinary talent under the supervision innovative regional American foods of culinary director Grant MacPherson. Menus and beverages that emphasize health will highlight American ingredients, beverages and sustainability. Around 50 to 60 and traditions. Uniquely American meals, such as people will work with U.S. States to Thanksgiving Dinners every Thursday and Sunday arrange the food truck presentations. Gospel Brunches, will be part of the regular schedule of events.

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International “It’s a privilege to be an educator, to change people’s lives.”

wood re-purposed from the Coney Island boardwalk, a large video people’s lives. Everything from knife skills to managing the U.S. pa- installation, a rooftop terrace, VIP meeting spaces, and retail. The vilion is a learning experience and makes the world a better place.” building is as much a part of the story as the series of exhibitions While living in Milan for the six months of the Expo, Dorothy and open gathering areas inside. hopes Les Dames will organize a trip to visit. A generous supporter “The global food theme of Expo Milano 2015—Feeding The of the New York Chapter, she has hosted many gatherings at ICC. Planet, Energy For Life—enables the USA Pavilion to showcase Chapter president Margaret Happel gives a recent example of how U.S. leadership in the global food arena and highlight the country’s Dorothy has helped the chapter. “As Dames planned their new role in advancing culinary sustainability,” explains Dorothy. members’ induction ceremony this past September, we needed an “The simple acts of growing food, transporting it, transforming inspirational keynote address. There was no better member to choose it, consuming it, enjoying it, and dealing with the waste engage a than Dorothy, who exemplifies the highest level of achievement, com- massive infrastructure, advanced technologies, and dynamic systems mitment, and dedication to the purpose of our society. Her brilliant, that touch on just about every aspect of the world we live in. Using engaging—and often humorous—talk was a call to arms. provocative, interactive exhibits and state-of-the-art digital media, • Fight, as she had done, against the bastions of the USA Pavilion at Expo Milano 2015 will highlight American gender bias in the culinary profession. industry, talent, products, ingenuity, and entrepreneurship within • Understand no qualification is too many. the context of sustainability, nutrition and health, consumption, • Persist in working towards your vision and goals. technology, and innovation. Our official partnership with Italy will • Aim ever higher as you reach them. promote conversation and collaboration to strengthen bilateral ties • Sprinkle the whole mix with a liberal seasoning between the United States and Europe and the rest of the global of as much generosity of spirit as you can muster. community to together tackle food-system issues and challenges. Dorothy concluded, “It’s a privilege to be an educator, to change The applause was thunderous.”

Cultural Programming Social and Digital Student Ambassador Celebrity guests, performances, and Media Experience Program events will keep the pavilion abuzz day A robust website, an The University of Southern and night throughout the duration of interactive app, and cutting- California is organizing this the Expo, producing valuable content edge communications program for which 120 American and collateral, such as Food Forum, an technology will be leveraged college students conversant in ongoing dialogue between consumers, before, during, and after the Italian and other languages will brands, and industry influencers about Expo to educate, engage, and be selected to act as escorts and the future of food, sustainability and share with visitors, sponsors docents for the pavilion, greeting public health. and key stakeholders. visitors and leading them through programs and experiences.

SPRING Quarterly 2015 7 LDEI Board Meets in Newport Beach By Ann Stratte (Green Tables and GCI), and embrac- (Washington) ing our Heritage Programs (Legacy, M.F.K. Fisher, and Grande Dame Your new LDEI board met for their Awards). Concerns and issues coming first face to face meeting in Orange from these contingents were addressed County, California, the site for the and acted upon. An ad hoc committee 2017 LDEI Conference. President Lori was formed to work with the board on Willis created a full agenda focusing on the Brock Circle. the 2015 Priorities she has thoughtfully The continued hard work by Quarterly put together for the upcoming year. editors Susan Slack and CiCi William- Her comprehensive game plan set the son was acknowledged by Ann Stratte tone for a productive meeting. Each as the board reviewed the content to be board member left with a clear vision included in the upcoming issues. The of the goals Lori intends to accomplish board made the decision to increase the during her presidency and the role each winter issue by 4 pages, allowing com- of us has in making them a reality. This plete coverage of the annual conference. will, indeed, be a great year! VALUE The four major priorities Dame Wil- lis identified are Communication/ Last, but not least, we spent time on Transparency, Growth, Branding, discussing the importance of value we and Value. add to the community through scholar- COMMUNICATION/ ships, charity and volunteerism. The TRANSPARENCY jam packed two days also included a review of our 2014 Year end financials The board discussed the importance by Treasurer Stacy Ziegler, valuable of continuing the LDEI Annual report historical background of past board de- (included with your 2015 LDEI Di- cisions by Past President Beth Allen and rectory); CBL and all-presidents calls; the sage insight and wisdom provided chapter visits by board members; and by Executive Director Greg Jewell. regular correspondence through the A highlight of the meeting was a various vehicles available. Saturday morning call to Charleston Bev Shaffer, Deb Orrill, and Deb Dames, Jennifer Goldman, Paige Mintcheff have succeeded in having a Canaday Crone, and Danielle Weck- high level of participation in the CBL sler as they outlined the fabulous plans calls. Hayley Matson-Mathes contin- their chapter is working on for the ues to be proactive with press releases LDEI 2015 conference. Wow! These and implementing successful webinars. gals know how to plan a party! This In addition, much progress is being will be an educational, fulfilled experi- made to improve the new chapter ence with Southern hospitality like formation process through formula- you have never seen. The board thanks tion of a working group consisting of all of the Dames working so very hard Ann Stratte, Deb Orrill, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Beth Sharon Olson, Debra Mintcheff, Beth to make this an extraordinary opportu- Allen, Sharon Olson, Greg Jewell, Deborah Mintcheff, Allen and Deb Orrill. Sharon Olson nity to learn, network, wine and dine! Maria Gomez-Laurens, Lori Willis, Stacy Ziegler. further elaborated on a number of Front row: Bev Shaffer, Peg Rahn, Mona Shah- Looking forward to seeing y’all there. new chapter opportunities that she is Anderson, Stacy Zeigler and Pam Waitt. Back row: The whirlwind trip to the West Coast working on. Yvonne Kopina, Joy Sheftner, Phyllis Ann Marshall, was topped off by a fun evening with Linda Crowley, Alison Robbins, Polly Peak, Nicole GROWTH 30 of the Los Angeles/Orange County BelcoreWilson. Deb Orrill, Greg Jewell, Sharon Olson, Pertaining to all members, chap- Dames at Five Crowns in Coronado Chef Chef Leo Guanulls with the Hyatt Newport ters, financial, and partners were all Beach, Beth Allen, Stacy Ziegler, Deborah Mintcheff, Del Mar, a former speakeasy and illegal Hayley Matson- topics of discussion. Maria Gomez gambling joint. The owner, Alison Mathes, Maria reported the amazing progress by AEC Robbins, hosted a pre dinner cocktail Gomez-Laurens, management in their new role in part- party in their secret upstairs venue with Lori Willis, Ann Stratte. Front ner development. The board acknowl- Absinthe being the main ingredient in edged this important component of row: Trina Kay, the signature cocktails. Many thanks Nancy Eisman, our organization and the need for our to event arrangers Marje Bennetts, Alicia Hitchcock continued support to our sponsors. Phyllis Ann Marshall, and Deirdre (LA/OC); back BRANDING Michalski row: Janet along with all of the local Burgess, Lori In an ongoing effort to enhance the Dames who made it a special evening! Willis. Photos by LDEI brand, a significant discussion We all look forward to making this a Hayley Matson- ensued on improving social media productive year, supporting our chap- Mathes. presence, promoting our initiatives ters and members in any way we can.

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Meet the 2015 Board of Directors My 20+ years in the coe, Maria manages global hospitality industry and the accounts and specializes in corporate world allows me full negotiation and place- to not only assist in the ments of conferences. She negotiations of our annual has been a guest speaker at conference but it also helps numerous conferences in me maintain a business vision Mexico. for all my responsibilities as Maria served as president a board member. of the San Diego Chap- Born in Mexico City to ter and three terms on a Diplomat father, Maria the LDEI Board: two as Gomez-Laurens moved to Chapter Board Liaison, President First Vice San Diego in the late 1970s. and one as Secretary. Since Lori Willis President Maria’s world travels with 2010, she has assisted (St. Louis) Maria Gomez- her parents sparked her in- LDEI International in terest in what would become searching, securing, and Laurens her true passion: working in negotiating hotels for the (San Diego and LA/OC) the hospitality industry. LDEI Annual Conference Grocers are privileged to enjoy a unique and After earning a Bachelor’s and for “Edible London.” emotional connection with the people we serve in Advertising, Marketing, She managed the creation which allows us opportunities to make profound and Design, she followed of the LDEI video and the and positive impacts on their health and well- her passion: event produc- design of the Brock Circle being. In partnership with LDEI, I am able to tion and design. During Pin. magnify that impact the world over. her 20 year career, she Maria feels the true mea- Lori Willis is director of communications was employed by Hilton sure of one’s character (in and chief spokesperson for St. Louis-based Hotels and was a 3-time any field), is the ability to Schnuck Markets, Inc., a family-owned winner of the highest be able to adapt, be com- grocery and pharmacy company of 99 stores company honor,“The passionate, listen, pay atten- across the Midwest. After building a strong Circle of Excellence,” pre- tion to details, be respectful reputation in communications and public sented to the hotel chain’s and honest, and practice a engagement, Lori joined Schnucks in 2001 sales producers with the sense of integrity. She has and established a communications department top 5% sales. been happily married to that helps guide internal and external commu- Now with Helms Bris- Dean Laurens for 14 years. nications. She helps form and communicate the company’s position on all aspects of the industry including the impact on culinary, Successful collaboration and graduated from Le beverage, consumer trends, and legislative has been key to my success in Cordon Bleu in Paris. She changes. Lori writes and produces videos, business. I like to think that spent over twenty years oversees company publications, develops this skill translates into being in the corporate world, events, and produces SchnucksTV, an internal a productive member of the working in sales and television network serving 15,000 Schnucks LDEI Board, moving the marketing for large food teammates. Schnucks celebrated its 75th An- organization towards fulfilling companies. Ann became niversary in 2014, and as part of the year-long its mission and serving our an expert in negotiating festivities, Lori and then-CEO Scott Schnuck members well. private-label contracts gathered support from company partners Ann Stratte was a charter between manufacturers to produce the Schnucks Anniversary Gala member of the Atlanta and grocery chains. The Benefitting St. Louis-based Operation Food Chapter of Les Dames day before her 50th Search. The event raised more than $800,000 d’Escoffier and transferred birthday, she married for for hunger relief. That same year, she served SECOND Vice her membership to the the first time and decided as the Communication Chair for the record- President Washington DC Chapter to follow her dream of breaking 2014 Campaign of the United Way Anne Stratte in 2000. She was active on becoming a personal chef of Greater St. Louis. Lori was instrumental in (Washington) the chapter’s board for five and caterer. Ann lives in establishing LDEI’s St. Louis Chapter in 2008 years, serving in various Annapolis, Maryland, with and is now entering her fourth year on the positions. Ann attended her husband, Bill, and two LDEI Board. Lori is a native of Jefferson City, Carleton College and the Cairn Terriers, Marge and Missouri, and a graduate of Lincoln University University of Minnesota, Fargo. of Missouri. She and her husband, Mick, have three children.

SPRING Quarterly 2015 9 Foundation work has many parallels professional chefs. with the LDEI mission, and it has Hayley served in various Les- honed my skills for collaborating with Dames d’Escoffier leadership a diverse team. I offer my expertise roles including Hawaii Chapter in marketing, brand awareness, and President and LDEI Chapter media relations to the LDEI board. Board Liaison. She also served as It is a great honor to continue serving the IACP Marketing Communica- our organization. tors Chair for two years. She has Hayley Matson-Mathes is a a Bachelor of Science degree with consultant living in Honolulu. She honors from Kansas State Uni- served in government and corpo- versity and completed a Master of rate culinary marketing positions Science in Communications from THIRD Vice throughout her career, building Fort Hays State University. She President a comprehensive background in has also pursued Culinary Institute Hayley Jo Matson- culinary education, foodservice and of America continuing education Executive retail promotions and public rela- classes. Hayley is an advocate for Director Mathes tions. Currently Hayley is the execu- girls’ education programs in the (Hawaii) tive director of the Hawaii Culinary community. She continues to be Greg Jewell Education Foundation, annually active in her family’s Kansas farm (Louisville) coordinating visiting chef programs and ranch operation. Hayley and Greg Jewell started his focused on promoting culinary edu- husband Michael are avid travel- career as a TV news cation and cutting-edge knowledge ers and enjoy exploring the great producer for the ABC for Hawaii culinary students and outdoors. affiliate in Louisville, but decided there had to be an easier way As an entrepreneur and past chap- Sharon often speaks on trends in to make a living. He ter president, I know how important the food industry, most recently found a job in the it is for an organization to grow presenting new original research at classifieds that required strategically and mindfully for the the National Restaurant Association “good writing skills, long term. As secretary, I am looking Show, Culinary Institute of America, good communication forward to supporting and inspiring National Association of College and skills and a good sense new chapters of LDEI. University Food Services National of humor.” Thus began Sharon Olson has been immersed Conference, and The Flavor Experi- his career in association in marketing for the food industry ence. She is also a frequent contribu- management. Greg for over 30 years. She was a vice tor to leading business publications spent 13 years with president at two leading foodservice on the foodservice industry and con- a Louisville-based agencies prior to forming Olson sumer trends. She is past president association manage- SECRETARY Communications in 1988 and the of our Chicago Chapter. ment company before Sharon M. Olson Culinary Visions Panel that surveys She holds an MBA with distinc- founding his own firm (Chicago) opinion leaders and consumers on tion from Keller Graduate School in 2000. Les Dames emerging trends in the food indus- of Management and has served on d’Escoffier Interna- try in 2002. She is also co-founder the advisory board for the Hotel tional joined AEC of Y-Pulse LLC (www.ypulse.org), a and Restaurant Program at Ash- Management in 2001 youth trend tracking organization. land University. as its second client. In addition to Les Dames, his company manages a dozen other non-profits As a Sales Director of 19 people, I’m assistant to director of catering and foundations, used to working with different per- and conference services, she set including the Ameri- sonalities! My organization, efficiency her sights on off-premises cater- can Institute of Wine and level headedness, help me value ing. Stacy is currently the director and Food, Foodservice what everyone has to offer, while of sales at Bold American Events, Consultants Society In- bringing consensus and moving the overseeing the catering, design, ternational, and North ball forward for ultimate effectiveness and group-dining sales teams. She American Thermal and productivity. won the company’s “Soul of the Analysis Society. At 6 years old, a love for cook- Family” award in 2011. With an ies and all things pie was her start eye for continuous education, she to food appreciation. That was earned her CMP and CPCE certi- only heightened after moving to fication. She also served five years TREASURER Atlanta after graduating from the on the national board of National Stacy Zeigler University of Miami and working Association of Catering Executives (Atlanta) at The Ritz-Carlton. There, Stacy (NACE). When not working on Zeigler discovered her true passion Bold events or LDEI activities, for great food and travel. After she still loves baking, and more 11 years with The Ritz-Carlton, importantly, eating pie and cookies working her way up from catering with her husband.

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International As an editor, I am able to see the while working in magazine test whole picture while paying close kitchens, but her professional attention to every detail. As a life start began as a garde manger at coach, I have learned to be an Tavern on the Green. Four years exceptional listener. Both skills will ago, Deborah got her certifica- serve me well on the board. tion as a life coach through the Deborah Mintcheffwears Coaches Training Institute and two hats: as a project editor for the International Coach Fed- branded cookbooks and as a eration. Though managing two certified life coach. Her passion careers can be a challenge, she IMMEDIATE for cookbooks was developed is not about to choose. She is at the book-packaging firm of PAST President former president and co-presi- Chapter Smallwood & Stewart. Formerly Beth Allen dent of the New York Chapter. board Liaison she was a top food stylist, sought (New York) Deborah has a Masters degree Deborah Mintcheff after for her exceptional baking skills and creative flair. Debo- in education from New York (New York) University. As an experienced cookbook au- rah’s love of food styling evolved thor/producer and business owner, as in my LDEI Board work… excellent communication skills and graphic computer expertise are “key.” Additionally, strate- My years at Texas Instruments for culinary education in roles gic thinking, future planning, were in financial planning and with Anne Willan at La Varenne financial controls, teamwork, and accounting so I bring financial ex- in Burgundy, Patricia Wells in delivering quality work on-time perience and best business practices Provence and Paris, Lorenza de and on-budget are essential. to the table. My culinary career Medici at Badia a Coltibuono Beth Allen has always loved includes considerable leadership ex- in Tuscany, and Central Mar- food, writing and travel. Fol- perience with non-profit organiza- ket Cooking School in Dallas. lowing promotion/marketing tions, especially the AIWF and also Furthering her mission, Deborah positions in Corning Glass our Dallas Chapter. participated in leadership of The Works, Pillsbury Company, and Deborah Orrill’s culinary American Institute of Wine & Campbell Soup Company, she conversion occurred while Food (including two years as moved to New York City. Her working for Texas Instruments national chairman) and the Dal- company focuses on develop- Chapter (TI) France: she was enchanted las Chapter. Who knew a degree ing illustrated cookbooks (23, board Liaison by the French culture of food. in French from Duke University to date) for such publishers as Deborah eventually left TI to be- would take her to Villeneuve- Deborah Orrill Reader’s Digest Association, come a stagiaireat École de Cui- Loubet, the European head- (Dallas) Rodale Inc., The Taunton Press, sine La Varenne in Paris. After- quarters of TI and birthplace of and William Morrow. Some of wards she continued her passion Escoffier? Vive la France! her popular titles include Junior’s Home Cooking, her fourth collaboration with Restaurant Owner Alan Rosen, plus Down I truly believe that we should give internationally, specializing in Home Cooking, Perfect Pies, and much more than we anticipate recipe development—having the continuity series, Cooking getting back, and all of my developed more than 12,000 Smart for a Healthy Heart, all culinary/business/life experiences recipes on a wide variety of by Reader’s Digest. Beth is a come together to keep me energized subjects. She is the recipient recipe developer, media spokes- and committed to the advancement of numerous awards including person, an expert in converting and promotion of such an eclectic international writing fellowships large-quantity restaurant recipes professional organization. and Ohio Dietetic Association’s into consumer sizes, and in Born and raised a Jersey girl Outstanding Contribution Americanizing UK cookbooks. with an attitude and sense of Award. A founding member Currently LDEI Immediate Past humor to match, Bev settled in of the Cleveland/Northeast President, Beth has served as Ohio when her husband was Ohio LDEI Chapter, a Board president of LDEI and her New Chapter transferred. She has owned her board Liaison member for the University of York Chapter. She holds a Bach- own kitchen store and catering elor of Science in Food Science/ business, been a cooking school Akron’s Nutrition and Dietetics Bev Shaffer Program, an Ohio State Master Home Economics from Iowa (Cleveland) director and culinary instructor, State University and a Master of has had her own award-winning Gardener, and a member of IACP, Chefs Collaborative, and Arts in Advertising/Communi- cable TV show, is the author cations from Syracuse Univer- of six cookbooks (with food WCR, Bev works full time as Corporate Chef and Manager of sity. Still a “Texan-at-heart,” she photographer husband, John) and her husband, John, hap- Recipe Development for Vitamix and a frequent media guest on pily reside in historic Chelsea’s World HQ. TV, radio, and press. She travels neighborhood of NYC. Photo by JR Dawkins

SPRING Quarterly 2015 11 By Alison Awerbuch (New York) tive businesses, but they also coordinated outings with local Dames and tours of interest. Five of 2014 was a very successful year for the LDEI the hosts provided housing. In other words, our Legacy Awards! Sue Huffman and I co-chaired Dame hosts––listed below––did an amazing job the awards and were given a tremendous both mentoring the winners and making them amount of support from our committee, which feel at home. A huge thank you to Stacy Ziegler, included: Abigail Kirsch, Suzi O’Rourke and Charlotte Swancy, and Judith Winfrey (The 2014 LDEI Marsha Palanci (New York); Toria Emas (Chi- Atlanta Farm Experience); Carolyn Wente and cago); Stacy Zeigler (Atlanta); Patricia Gelles Amy Hoopes (The California Wine Experience); Legacy Awards (Seattle); Barb Ostmann (St. Louis); Holly Susan Westmoreland and Sharon Franke (The Hadsell-El-Hajji (Hawaii); Susan Weinstein NYC Food Journalism Experience); Lesley Hill Presented to (Miami); and Suzanne DeGalan and Jerry (The Hawaii Farm Experience); Lisa Dupar (The DiVecchio (San Francisco). Seattle Catering Experience); and Shari Carlson Six Women We were thrilled that all six award recipients (The Dallas Pastry Experience). were able to attend the Boston Conference. We are well under way with planning for the They networked and got career advice from our 2015 LDEI Legacy Awards. We are thrilled members and participated in all of the confer- that the Julia Child Foundation has once again ence activities. offered a $12,000 grant, which so greatly assists The award winners were honored at a luncheon in underwriting the awards. Our six award and eloquently and emotionally spoke about hosts are in place and the application process their experiences, which so positively impacted will begin in April. them both professionally and personally. This Information will be updated on the LDEI was truly a highlight of the conference for website under Awards. We will reach out to many of us in attendance. Hearing their stories you as we continue to strongly encourage you brought the awards to life. As you read their to spread the word about this career-expanding reports on pages 12-14, you will get a real sense opportunity and to personally be on the lookout of their Legacy experience. for talented women to apply in the spring. It’s The 2014 hosts set up whirlwind itineraries that up to all of us to keep the Legacy Awards alive not only included spending time at their respec- and thriving.

views of Central Park, and the much as I do. While I relish the do just that by recognizing their blog post will be seen by some of freedom and flexibility of the passion for working in food, and the millions of Good Housekeep- freelancer’s life, I crave collabora- by fostering that deep interest ing readers, and the food prep is tion. My week at Good House- through the generosity of time, being done for a live segment on keeping left me feeling inspired talent, and resources offered by Fox Business––let me tell you, it’s and connected to a whole new the LDEI membership. not a typical day at the office. community. From press events There were many thrilling and brainstorming sessions, to a moments during my week at memorable dinner with a hand- Good Housekeeping. When Sue ful of New York Dames, I came Catherine Smart Robison called one Sunday eve- away from this experience grate- (Somerville, MA) ning to inform me I was the first ful for the fact that Les Dames Good Housekeeping recipient of the Legacy Awards d’Escoffier International gave me NYC Journalism Experience for food and wine journalism, I a seat at the table, which is one Hosts: Dames Susan Westmore- was thrilled. I expected to meet of the most valuable gifts you can land and Sharon Franke fascinating, brilliant women and bestow on someone striving to peek into the workings of a major take her career to the next level. From product testing and prep- magazine. I also expected I may The experience of attending Meghan Seradsky ping for TV segments, to recipe be told to sit quietly in the corner the Boston Conference added (New York City) development and participating and try not to get in the way. another layer of connection; Atlanta Farm-to-Table Experience in brainstorming sessions, I got a That couldn’t have been further reuniting with women I met in Hosts: Dames Stacy Zeigler, Char- real feel for what it takes to work from my experience. Not only New York, meeting the other lotte Swancy, Judith Winfrey Susan Westmoreland as a team to promote the Good were and Legacy Award winners, and at- Sharon Franke Housekeeping brand, and put kind, generous, tending educational seminars that “That’s not what it’s about,” out a great issue every month. and welcoming, they also gave were fun, informative, and full of Mary squarely responds in a Testing recipes, writing copy me the opportunity to dive right Dames who were ready to engage tone that suggests perhaps I am for blog posts, and prepping mis in, learn about all aspects of and extend themselves. a little thick. She was responding en place for cooking demonstra- producing a great food section, “Find something you’re passion- to my inquiry about how long it tions are tasks not out of the and even to feel like a useful part ate about, and keep tremendously took to perfect her formula for Julia Child ordinary for me as food writer, of the team. interested in it,” said , goat cheese. teacher, and personal chef. But While getting my hands dirty a woman whose indomitable That’s not what it’s about? For when the recipes are tested in a was a welcome surprise, perhaps spirit continues to influence and someone like me, a cook in a sparkling, state-of-the-art test the most valuable part of the unite LDEI members with di- previous life, Mary’s response is kitchen perched at the top of the experience was connecting with verse careers and life experience. befuddling. What does she mean Hearst Tower with spectacular smart, fun, and engaging women The Legacy Awards encourages the formula isn’t important? This who love food and writing as a new generation of women to is cheese, isn’t it? 12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International I ponder her response as Mary, aside land for goats to graze and a loss when it comes to figuring ence involved in wine making, the beloved Decimal Place fertilize. She learned much of out a good glass of wine to serve he said, “Every year is different. farmer, goat-herder, and artisanal what she knows under farmer Joe with it. My main criteria when You’re chasing the elusive but- cheesemaker, opens the gate for Reynolds at Love is Love Farm, perusing the shelves at my local terfly.” But experiences like mine, her two mammoth-sized dogs my next stop. wine store is whether or not I like he added, help to demystify the to lead the herd to pasture. Fifty I spent my brief time at Love is the label. Plus, I’m cheap. And process. Getting my hands dirty snow-colored goats happily fol- Love Farm under the guidance of I know I’m not alone. I was the in the restaurant garden with low, beh-heh-ing in anticipation. Rachel, star roller derby jam- perfect candidate then, for one of Master Gardener Diane Dovho- We continue our tour through mer and farmer protégé. I saw six 2014 Legacy Awards offered luk was an equally pleasurable Mary’s 40-acre farm, much of it first-hand the incredible bounty this spring by LDEI. experience that included watch- woods, as she points out poison of an organic, soil-focused The winner of this “wine experi- ing her go after bagrada bugs ivy, privet, and honeysuckle the operation. Here, Joe and Rachel ence” would spend a hands-on with a blow torch to keep them goats will shortly feast on. “You place soil health above all else as week learning all she could about from feasting on her Red Russian see,” she continues. “Anyone can a means for cultivating a better turning grapes into wine at one kale. “No way, no how,” she said. make cheese. There are plenty of product. The results were clear of the country’s oldest, best- After a week at Wente, that pretty recipes out there, you just pick as we picked aromatic mountain known family wineries––Wente much sums up how I feel about one and follow it.” She ducks un- mint, okra on stalks significantly Family Estates in Livermore, my previous wine choices. No der a cobweb and deftly picks her taller than I am (read over 5’6”), California. Talk about a life- way, no how am I ever going to way through the trees, shrubs, eggplant, and intensely flavorful changing experience! The best drink cheap wine again. and branches. “But,” she adds, “It lunchbox peppers. way to learn was to get my hands has to start with the milk. Milk So a few days later when Farmer dirty during the harvest. My visit, starts with the goats and even Mary of Decimal Place responds then, fell during the last week of that begins with the land, really.” to my inquiry about cheese for- September, when I did plenty of For someone at the tail end mulas with “It’s not about what grunt work: working the sorting of a six-day trip shadowing five happens in the kitchen” in the line, shoveling pomice, punching farmers across greater Atlanta, I tone of duh, it’s well-deserved. down “caps” of grape skins, and should have known. Of course it’s Where does good food come washing and filling barrels. But about the land. from? Six days, five farms, 50 I also got to do lots and lots of My adventures in Atlanta started goats, 12 mentors and hours of wine tasting, plus a wine aroma at Riverview Farm with Charlotte weeding, hoeing, harvesting, and seminar in which I put my nose Swancy and her husband Wes, milking in Atlanta taught me that to the test and learned to identify where they raise free-range Berk- good food unequivocally begins naturally occurring aromas such Jane Anderson shire pork, cows, and chickens. If with good land…under the care as herbs, fruits, and spices. (Sacramento, California) you ask Charlotte where a visitor of good farmers. There were more than a few Hawaiian Farm Experience would find the pigs, she’ll respond, Thank you to these Dames who good meals, starting with a wel- Host: Dame Leslie Hill, Wailea “Everywhere!” And they really are. created the opportunity to meet come dinner that included Chef Agricultural Group,Honomu, On my first day, Charlotte such incredible champions of Matt Greco’s signature dish–– Hawaii gave me a tour of their 200-acre good food! Stacy Ziegler took housemade lamb pastrami served farm, the second largest sustain- fantastic care of me and was with pickled onion on rye crisps. My Legacy experience started able farm in Atlanta. The tour instrumental in arranging the At 7 a.m. my first morning, I was with a hurricane and ended culminated at the Coosawattee three main farm stays at Riverview in tramping through vineyards with a rainbow. I arrived on the River, which naturally irrigates Farm with Charlotte Swancy; heavy with ripe, sweet-smelling Big Island of Hawaii just after the easternmost portion of their Love Is Love Farm with Judith Cabernet Sauvignon and Orange Hurricane Iselle made her visit. I landhelping to maintain 15 feet Winfrey; and Decimal Place Farm Muscat grapes with 22-year-old had a million butterflies flutter- of topsoil. For plants and their with Mary Rigdon. Charlotte and Niki Wente, one of three mem- ing in my stomach as I waited roots, this topsoil is a sprawl- Judith arranged visits to Brightside bers of the sixth generation. for Lesley Hill to pick me up, ing Tudor-style home compared Farm and White Stone Farm. Over the next few days, I saw all but once I got into the car, they to the fixer-upper clay found phases of wine production––how vanished. She quickly became beneath the rest of the property. grapes are fed into giant hoppers one of my favorite people on This explains why the copious to be crushed, destemmed (red this planet. Before we headed to fruits and vegetables strategically only), and pumped into tanks the farm, Lesley took me to see grown by the river looked plump for fermentation. I also spent Paradise Plants, the store she has and almost pampered. several happy hours with small- owned over 30 years. Afterwards, After Riverview, I traveled to lot winemaker Claude Bobba, we made our way to her farm, Brightside Farm run by Kick-Ass who with his long hair and gentle The Wailea Agriculture Group. Erin, so named by the farming demeanor reminded me very I couldn’t believe how beautiful community because she single- much of guitarist David Crosby. it was. handedly took on a small, unused A self-taught wine expert, Claude I had no idea how much went farm behind a Mennonite Church took me into the barrel room to Gretchen McKay into farming. Farm-to-table has in Atlanta and turned it into a sub listen to the “scream” of carbon (Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) always been a part of my life and one-acre agricultural oasis. Wente Family Estates California dioxide escaping and taught me my career, but I have never had a Today, Brightside features Wine Experience how to take a whiff of ferment- rattlesnake beans, okra, eggplant, Hosts: Dames Carolyn Wente and ing wine to check for off-putting hands-on experience like the one bell peppers, and more. Erin’s top Amy Hoopes smells without burning my nose I had with Lesley. A pastry chef, priority was to restore the health (you wave it to your face with I had never seen how chocolate of the soil through careful crop As much as I cook and write your hands). was made. On this trip, I met selection, cover crops, and setting about food, I’m pretty much at When I marveled over the sci- Pam Cooper, owner of Original SPRING Quarterly 2015 13 Hawaiian Chocolate. We toured It truly was a night I will never many restaurants and country her farm, viewing their chocolate- forget. For one week I was com- clubs in and around Dallas. making process. pletely immersed in the culinary After meeting her crew, we went During the rest of my stay culture of Seattle. I also got to to Shari’s office and she shared with Lesley, I saw how they see the Seattle Seahawks’ opener many stories of her career in harvested their signature crop: against the Green Bay Packers at the pastry world. I was in awe heart of palm. I went out on the Century Link Field, which was looking around her office at all four-wheeler with Duane, the a blast. the awards she had won and at head farmer. He made chopping The LDEI conference in Boston the articles written about this down the palm with his machete was equally edifying. From the amazing pastry chef. I only hope look so easy. Once the palm was Jennifer Bradley lecture on molecular gastronomy that one day I can follow Shari’s harvested, we went back to the (New York City) to a tour of Verill Farm with example, share my love of food packing shed to clean and pack- Seattle Catering Experience other Dames, I was able to get so with my students, and ignite age it. Within hours, the heart of Host: Dame Lisa Dupar, Lisa much out of the weekend spent their spark and passion. palm was shipped out to clients Dupar Catering, with such incredible women Sharing a love for the American across the U.S. Redmond, Washington including my fellow legacy Culinary Federation (ACF), we But there’s more to the farm award winners. Being a part of have much in common. It was a than just heart of palm. Some- After hearing I was selected to in- your Legacy Awards and LDEI wonderful experience to be able thing that blew my mind was tern with Seattle’s premier catering Conference was an honor and to discuss thoughts and ideas, not seeing how mace and nutmeg company owned and operated by motivation to become a success- to mention, bounce ideas off her grow. They come in a seemingly Lisa Dupar, I knew that the Lega- ful and compassionate leader in for my future. Owning my own normal looking pear-shaped fruit. cy Awards experience would be the culinary field. small business has opened oppor- But, haHAH! When you crack it an opportunity of a lifetime and Being more competent is what tunities for me in this wonderful open, there is an alien-like pod I had to be a part of it. Coming our industry requires, and sharing career, and Shari had great input with bright red webbing (the from Abigail Kirsch, a leading knowledge with other profession- to help me grow my business. mace) surrounding it. The mace catering company in New York, I als is a great deal of fun. Because The remainder of the week was protects the little nutmeg inside. have had the opportunity to grow of this experience, I hope to com- spent working in her shop. I was The farm has a wide variety of professionally and was excited to pare skills and techniques with up early each morning, pump- citrus, not to mention durian, see the differences and similarities my colleagues for the remainder ing out the prep list for the day, 10 different kinds of avocados, in the companies. of my career. Thank you all for sharing lunch with her staff, and flowers, and my personal favorite Lisa was there from the mo- this wonderful experience. packaging up deliveries for the lilikoi (passionfruit). Beehives are ment I landed and opened up her afternoon. housed on the farm and I got to home and her business allowing Shari has a well-oiled routine be a beekeeper for a day! Work- me to feel connected. It was in- in her shop with a long-time ing with Lesley and her crew gave teresting to see the catering scene staff that loves working with her me a deeper appreciation for the on the West Coast. Lisa’s team and for her. All combined, they work that the world’s farmers do was extremely welcoming, which represent years of talent. for us on a daily basis. It truly is allowed me to feel like part of The size of Shari’s shop leaves a labor of love––love for food, for the brigade. During my intern- much room for growth. I have the land, and for learning. ship, I was able to assist with never in my life seen a mixer that Back in my restaurant kitchen, I tastings, events, and production. was taller than I was in any of my see the fruits of the farmers’ labor I sat in on various departmental bakeshops. She has a family of on a more intimate level. I turn operational meetings, giving me Lisa Ramsey mixers that covers all aspects of their passion into mine. The way a greater understanding of how (LaVergne, Tennessee) production! One thing I learned I look at food is always changing other companies run and a new Dallas Pastry Experience is that it is important to have the and I’m always learning. It’s one network of people whom I can Host: Dame Shari Carlson, Des- proper equipment to handle the of many things I love about being call my friends. sert Dreams Bakery, Dallas, Texas massive workload for each day. a chef. We have a duty to the Working with Lisa and her team Our days usually wrapped up farmers to put out a product that was only part of the experience. As we all know, the day in the around 2:00 p.m., which gave us will be enjoyed by our customers. She arranged tours of other fa- life of a pastry chef starts early time to explore Dallas and meet Because of my time with cilities owned by Seattle Chapter in the morning. Once I arrived many of Shari’s fans. Lesley, I feel that responsibil- Dames such as Fran’s Chocolates, in Dallas, Shari Carlson set me The highlight of the trip was the ity has grown tenfold. She is a owned by Fran Bigelow; Pike up in her home for the week. LDEI event hosted by the Dallas true inspiration and one of the Place Brewery, owned by Rose We went to dinner then “hit the Chapter at the farmers’ market. hardest working, most nurtur- Anne Finkle and Charlie Finkle, hay” to start my adventure with Dames from all over came and ing, worldly, and loving people and the World Spice Merchants, Shari and her crew early the next shared their experiences and skills I know. I am forever grateful to shown by General Manager morning. from ice cream to mushrooms LDEI for pairing us together. I Holly Morris. When we arrived at her shop, for a good cause! I cannot thank gained a mentor in Lesley and On an off-night, Lisa and sev- most of Shari’s team were already LDEI enough for this great op- also a family. This experience will eral Dames invited me for a most prepping the daily task list. There portunity! I look forward to be- stay with me for the rest of my memorable dinner. The food was were cakes for miles and the rou- ing involved in the new Nashville life. Mahalo. fabulous but the company was tine was organized for the quick- Chapter and introducing more better. We shared stories of our est and smoothest production amazing women to this fabulous careers and current focuses. possible. Shari’s business provides organization. cakes and desserts for Compiled by Susan Slack 14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Clockwise from top left: Kären Jurgensen; Seattle Dames; Karen Binder; Cynthia Nims, Katherine Kehrli, Paul T. Killpatrick, Ph.D., President of Seattle Community College, and winners of the cake competition, Gabby Park and Erica Olsen.

Seattle Chapter Celebrates 25th Anniversary By Nicole Aloni Culinary Academy on Capital Hill (SCA). This world-class bites, all with a local ingredient fo- wonderful facility was made available through cus. There was also an abbondanza-style cheese The inspiration to create a Seattle Chapter the generous involvement of Associate-Dean, table, a decadent dessert display, and wine and of LDEI began on November 16, 1988, with Linda Chauncey, and Director, Joy Gulmon- beer stations liberally dotting the party. an organizing meeting for potential members. Huri. The Event Team was led by Co-Chairs Besides the delicious foods, wines, and Pike The chapter was formed in January 1989, Katherine Kehrli (President) and Cynthia Place beers, the highlights of the evening were: by 16 charter members, many of whom are Nims (Vice-President) with the support of 1. The delivery of a proclamation from Se- still very active today: Fran Bigelow, Jerilyn Nicole Aloni, Alice Gautsch-Foreman, Anne attle Mayor Ed Murray, declaring December Brusseau, Kyle Fulwiler, Alice Gautsch- Nisbet, Jamie Peha, Braiden Rex-Johnson, 3, 2014, as “Les Dames d’Escoffier (Seattle) Foreman, Bev Gruber, Nancy Lazara, and Norma Rosenthal. 25 Years of Giving Day.” Dorene McTigue, and Kay Simon. Karen Jurgensen, Chef-Instructor at the 2. The presentation of a stunning celebration The first annual general meeting was held on SCA, lead a team of advanced culinary cake created by the winners of the design con- September 25, 1989, at Anthony’s Homeport, students in the preparation of the elegant test sponsored by Alice Gautsch-Foreman. Kirkland, Washington, with an election of menu. Many Dame-owned or -run businesses Winners received a cash award and the oppor- officers—Bev Gruber, President, and Fran contributed mightily to the menu, along with tunity to build their cake for the event. It was Bigelow, Vice-President, and the bylaws were generous donations from local suppliers and definitely a beautiful and unique centerpiece adopted unanimously. The first Seattle fund- producers. for this smashing evening. raiser, held in September 1990, raised $4,200 The meal was billed as “Hearty Northwestern To date, the Seattle Chapter is proud to for scholarships. Appetizers”—Moules Frites with Saffron Aioli; have awarded more than $550,000 in schol- Twenty-five years later, the now 69-members Creamy Cauliflower Soup Shots with Brown arships to deserving women in the culinary, threw themselves a sparkling Silver Anniversary Butter and Cacao Nibs; Juniper and Corian- beverage and hospitality industries and party on December 3, 2014, at the Seattle der-Cured Salmon, along with many more Green Table grants.

SPRING Quarterly 2015 15 LDEI Past Presidents: Energizer Bunnies in the Pasture “We are like Energizer bunnies--we just keep going and going and going!”—PP#9 Pam Williams (British Columbia)

By CiCi Williamson The Past Presidents (Washington) Advisory Council met at Abby Mandel’s Since 1986, two dozen accomplished women Palm Springs home in have led Les Dames d’Escoffier International. February 2004. Front row: Ann Yonkers, Where are our LDEI Past Presidents (PP) Renie Steves, Nancy today, and what are they doing? I emailed Brussat-Barocci, them—a means of communication not avail- Dorene Centioli- able to the earliest presidents. Many are still McTigue. Back row: operating their businesses, writing blogs, and Beverly Barbour- Soules, Claire Boasi, are crucial board members of LDEI and other Nancy Kirby Harris, non-profits. Let’s start with our first leader. CiCi Williamson, Abby Mandel, PP#1. Dolores Snyder. Jeanne Appleton Voltz Suzanne Brown, Te- (New York), 1920-2002, a home econo- resa Farney, Katherine mist, began her career Newell Smith, and as a correspondent for Sandy Hu at the 2012 the Birmingham News in LDEI Conference in 1940. She wrote for the St. Louis. Mobile Press Register and was food editor of the Miami Herald and Los Angeles Times before mov- ing to New York where she was food editor PP#7. Beverly Barbour-Soules of Woman’s Day magazine until 1984. Her (New York; San Francisco) finally quit writ- daughter, Jeanne Voltz (New York) was ing a syndicated column that she started featured in the summer 2014 Quarterly as a when working on an Indian reservation in food stylist. North Dakota 40 years ago. A member of the Century Club of California, she helps PP#2. Claire Boasi (Philadelphia) is with the Bouquets to Art fundraisers for a founding member of her chapter and was both the Legion of Honor and the DeYoung a university professor. The dietitian does museums and is in an Auxiliary for the nutrition, marketing, and new product Symphony. Beverly says, “I find that I have development. Currently she does pro bono less time than I had when I was working and for non-profit and cultural organizations going to college!” including design and implementation of a nutrition/fitness program for Opera singers. PP#5. Ann Harvey Yonkers (Wash- PP#8. Dorene Centioli-McTigue ington), co-founder with Bernadine Prince (Seattle) sold her Pagliacci Pizza chain and PP#3. Dolores Snyder (Dallas) of Freshfarm Market in 1997, is retiring this remains an active member of the Seattle founded the Dallas Chapter and was one year. The now-13 markets are visited by over Chapter. After living in Italy for two years, of the five founders of LDEI. She served 400,000 people. Ann has received numerous she is helping run the real estate business as chapter president and nine years on the awards including Downtown Person-of-the- founded by her parents. “Business still is my LDEI Board. Her chapter endowed in her Year in 2014. She and her husband own Pot- core strength. I enjoy being asked to advise honor a $60,000 Dolores Simmons Snyder pie Farm on Maryland’s Eastern Shore where young entrepreneurs,” Dorene confides. “I’m Scholarship in Nutritional Science at the they produce eggs and grow vegetables. Ann in as much of a hurry as ever, but now it is University of Texas. She is the author of Te a was president of the Washington Dames and to beat the clock, not punch the clock.” Time Entertaining. “Dodie” now lives with served on the board many times. her husband in a Dallas retirement center. PP#9. Pam Williams (British Co- PP#6. Nancy Brussat Barocci lumbia), returned as chapter president PP#4. Nancy Kirby Harris (Chi- (Chicago) is still involved in her business, in 2013. As her day job, Pam is founder cago) currently serves as Senior Executive Convito Cafe & Market, a fine dining Italian and lead instructor of Ecole Director, American Diabetes Association, and French restaurant, and a gourmet market Chocolat Professional School in central Florida. She lives in Sarasota after & wine shop with her daughter and partner, of Chocolate Arts, her busi- moving south from Chicago where she was Candace Barocci Warner. Nancy also writes ness established in 2003. She chapter president and past president of a food and wine blog “My Italian Journeys” serves as president of the Fine IACP and its IACP Foundation. She teaches at https://nancybrussat.wordpress.com, Chocolate Industry Association some cooking classes at a local food bank. co-chaired the Chicago Chapter’s May 2014 (FCIA) and Heirloom Cacao “I enjoy golf, yoga and ‘Pickle Ball,’ a sport Fundraiser “Swank-a-Licious,” and is chair- Preservation (HCP) Initiative that is new to me.” man of the Policy Committee. Executive Committee member.

16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International “Us Dames r strong women.”—PP#6 Nancy Brussat Barocci (Chicago)

PP#10. Abigail Kirsch (New York) PP#15. Dianne Hogerty the Colorado Springs Gazette. She writes is retired but “I still have my nose in the (Kansas City) is retired from her Family Fea- three weekly cover stories monthly and the business [Abigail Kirsch] all the tures business but stays up to date through columns “Eat Well,” “On Food,” and “Table time.” Her catering company is “my terrific staff.” She splits Talk.” Teresa does weekly Table Talk video now managed by Alison Awer- the year living in Kansas City interviews with chefs and hosts the KVOR buch. Abigail was featured in and Scottsdale, Arizona, and Table Talk radio show on Saturdays. She is the February Issue of Redbook enjoys her many grandchil- the treasurer for her chapter and co-chairs Magazine and stays active in dren between 11 and 26 years the LDEI Nominating Committee. Les Dames, having just attend- old. “My heart still belongs to ed the annual conference in Boston. Abigail LDEI,” said Dianne. PP#21. Sandy Hu (San Francisco) was named a Grande Dame in 2003. has evolved her food marketing communica- PP#16. Pat Mozersky (San Antonio) tions business, Sandy Hu Food Marketing, PP#11. Abby Mandel (Chicago), retired from the San Antonio Express-News from a full-service PR business to a PR 1933-2008, died of mantle cell lymphoma. last April. She planned her consultancy. “I also continue to run my She was the food processor queen and son’s wedding, and she and mobile recipe website, Special Fork, where I started the Green City Market in 1998 that husband David are taking all blog weekly and play an active role on social is stronger than ever. Abby became a consul- the kids to Italy to celebrate media,” said Sandy. “I am judging the James tant for Cuisinart and wrote for Bon Appetit their 50th anniversary. For Beard Book Awards once again this year.” magazine for nine years and the Chicago many years, she has co-chaired Sun-Times for seven years. Her four books the San Antonio Food & Wine PP#22. Mary S. Moore (Atlanta) sold 700,000 copies. Abby said, “It isn’t Festival. Pat worked on her chapter’s fund- is Founder/CEO, The Cook’s Warehouse, worth doing if it isn’t fun.” raiser, Meals on Reels, held in February. Atlanta’s premier gourmet store and cooking school with PP#12. Renie Steves (Dallas) PP#17. Toria Emas (Chicago) four locations. These are com- is currently recovering from a broken neck— still works as Administration Director and plemented by an on-line store and managing beautifully with a 15-pound is past Foodservice Operations at cookswarehouse.com and halo (aka “Beast”) on her head. She is very Director, Chicago Bar Associa- a mail order catalog. Earlier active in her chapter and LDEI, and at- tion. She is a board member she managed the kitchens and tended the Boston LDEI Conference. Until of Second Sense and serves on cooked at Partners Morning- her November injury, she was still meeting the LDEI Legacy Committee. side Café and Indigo Coastal Grill. Mary is with winemakers and marketers and writing For her chapter, she recently a frequent television guest speaker and is an about new wines. She is a member of the worked on the Policy Review active member of her chapter. LDEI Social Media Task Force, and plans to Committee and is mentoring Miranda Kidd, blog about living with a halo. one of their 2014 scholarship recipients. PP#23. Mary Ellen Griffin (New York) is retired but PP#13. CiCi Williamson PP#18. Katherine Newell Smith blogging at www.myMEGus- (Washington) is editor of the fall and spring (Washington) continues work as president of ta.com. She continues to LDEI Quarterly and chair of LDEI’s M.F.K. KNS Promotion Inc, her 20 year-old public travel the world, and recently Fisher Award. She retired in August from the relations company. She works on food- spent a few weeks in Australia food safety hotline at U.S.D.A. after 26 years, issues advocacy with Lynn Fredericks (New and New Zealand, preceded and quit writing her syndicated microwave York) and master sommelier Kathy Morgan by a visit to Hawaii, where cooking column of 23 years. CiCi is past (Washington) on Teen Taste Sense-ation, a she dined with Joan Nam- president of the Culinary Historians of Wash- flavor tasting. Twice the chapter president, koong and Hayley Matson-Mathes and ington, serves on many chapter boards, and Katherine writes the chapter newsletter “En- enjoyed a stay at Kilauea Lodge owned by helped to start several new LDEI chapters. tre Nous” and wrote and produced a video Lorna Larson-Jeyte. about Martha’s Table. PP#14. Gretchen Mathers PP#24. Beth Allen (New York) (Seattle), 1941-2007, lost a hard-fought PP#19. Suzanne Brown (Atlanta) is is Immediate Past President battle with breast cancer. She Director of Member Services, Sandy Springs/ on the LDEI Board where was an operating partner at Perimeter Chamber of Commerce. “I’m also she is currently a member Schwartz Bros., owner of two still working on coffee and tea marketing of the Board’s New Chapter bakeries and a mobile, box- projects as well as writing for STIR Maga- Formation Procedures Task lunch catering service called zine, a global trade magazine to the coffee Force. She is an advisor to her Gretchen’s Shoebox Express. and tea industries,” reports Suzanne. She is chapter’s Board of Directors Her Gretchen’s Of Course chair of LDEI’s Global Culinary Initiatives for the website and fundrais- bakery business once supplied and active in her chapter. ing auctions. Beth continues to operate her pastries to all Washington and Oregon Star- business, Beth Allen Associates, Inc., special- bucks. Gretchen helped found the Seattle PP#20. Teresa Farney (Colorado) izing in creating, developing and producing Chapter and really cared about people. is celebrating 18 years as food editor of cookbooks.

LDEI Presidents have been from these chapters. New York (5) Chicago (4) Washington (3) Atlanta (2) Dallas (2) Seattle (2) British Columbia, Colorado, Kansas City, Philadelphia, San Antonio, San Francisco (1 each).

SPRING Quarterly 2015 17 The Best Begins in Boston CONFERENCE Coverage Session 10 Feeding Our Kids at School and at Home Session 8 By Patty Ziegenhorn (Atlanta) Chef Ann Cooper, Lynn Fredericks, and Sally Sampson were united in this session that the way to fix childhood obesity and to change children’s diets is to begin with teaching them and their families to cook again and to get the family back to the dinner table. They believe the “kids menu” in restaurants needs to be abolished and children should experience all foods. Children should experi- ence fresh, wholesome foods, diversity of food cultures, and most importantly see how food is grown and healthily prepared. Each panel member had a different perspective as their experiences are diverse in the industry but the same mantra echoed among them, “Education spawns healthy eating.” Chef Ann Cooper de- scribed herself as the “renegade lunch lady. She wants to transform school cafeterias into culinary classrooms. She prefers promoting sustainable menus with regional, seasonal, and organic ingredients. She readily admits that organic is not for every school district because they cannot afford it. She feels teaching school children Photo by Susan Slack there are choices of healthy fresh foods that taste good is just as im- portant as the ingredients as she referred the usual overly processed Shooting Cold items seen in a school cafeteria such as chicken nuggets, pizza and Note: Also see the winter Quarterly for the first part of this article. French fries. She would like to see each school in America have a fully equipped kitchen, salad bar available on a daily basis and a By Beth Pav (Austin Chapter) garden for hands on experience. There’s nothing warm about shooting cold! Lynn Fredericks also believes in nutrition and food preparation edu- Yet things heated up this year at LDEI’s Confer- cation. She began a program called “Stirring up Change” through her ence Session––“Shooting Cold.” This, by far, was production company FamilyCook Productions. Her program pres- the most informative and no-holds-barred techni- ently has 130 sites in 26 states that promote hands on food education cal session on photographing and styling frozen to parents and foods that I’ve attended. Here are valuable tips I their children. She took away from the session; now you can benefit too. believes this hand 1. Do research: discover the client’s color palate; how many on experience pro- products you will shoot; who will be on your team, e.g., vides a family with food stylist, prop stylist, and assistants. an opportunity to 2. Keep a wide array of props; even if one is not your favorite enjoy a variety of piece––it might work for the client. multi-cultural food 3. The backdrop is important; consider old windows, vases, experiences utiliz- large pieces of natural stone, or wood. ing fresh, healthy food and cooking techniques. Additionally, she has 4. Food stylist Sunny Ricks used a Rolykit Toolbox to transport used her program findings with the NIH to assist with a leadership her equipment (see photo). Each stylist needs a set-up program called “Teen Battle Chef”. This program centers youth-led station where he/she can spread out tools and work. activities to build skills for new and healthier behaviors. 5. Understand that you’ll probably work in small spaces with Sally Sampson began her presentation with a personal story. clients and professional stylists. Sally’s now 22 year old daughter was born with a chronic illness 6. Dress warmly; cool studios can increase available time for at a young age that affected her liver. In order for her daughter shooting “frozen delights.” to thrive she changed her professional direction from cookbook 7. Fake ice cream, sorbet & granita can be made from writing to a career providing written education tools for health ingredients in your pantry, on a wine rack, or those used for professionals. She realized early on in her daughter’s treatment a healing bath. doctors knew nothing about nutrition and food preparation. Her 8. Water Storing Crystals make the best ice, and it keeps magazine ChopChop began in April 2010, as an education tool for forever. children provided at no cost in MD offices. The quarterly maga- 9. Check out Home Depot, Michael’s, and restaurant supply or zine is dedicated to reversing and preventing childhood obesity. beauty supply stores for clamps, tables, whiteboard, paint The magazine is in distribution now as ½ of the printed copies go brushes, tweezers, and other tools. to low-income children at no cost and the other ½ of the printing 10. Plan for contingencies, have a great time and keep the is being distributed to paying institutions such as school systems, laughter going! state government health departments, and non-profits. The maga- zine is written both in English and Spanish.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Dine-Arounds

was garnished with triangles of pumpkin SCAMPO seed brittle. By Marsha Palanci With passed forks flying, we sampled (New York) grilled Tagliata of Prime Sirloin, Scampo Brick Chicken with Vanilla Bean Whipped Ten hungry Dames descended on Lydia Sweet Potato, and Spaghetti Vongole. Shire’s Italian restaurant Scampo Thursday As an extra treat, Lydia’s popular lobster evening, ready to feast on her legendary pizza made the rounds. cuisine. Expectations were high since The All of this exquisite food was washed Daily Meal (www.thedaily meal.com) down with copious glasses of red and ranks Scampo as one of the “top 20 Italian white wine from Italy’s top producers. Joan restaurants in America.” In addition, it calls Bloom, however, ordered a glass of rosé her “one of the country’s top 20 bad-ass from Provence explaining “I am always female chefs.” loyal to my clients.” The menu showcased some of Scampo’s For the dolce course, we sampled dark, specialties. In addition to the classic chocolate, caramel tart; affogato coffee trio; preparation, each dish carried a signature tiramisu; and my favorite, a completely touch. For example, my dish of mozza- non-Italian Apple Crisp Bread Pudding. rella with shaved pear and pecorino was To our delight, Lydia met us at the door accented with a star-shaped slice of grilled on our way out, smiling graciously with her pain d’epices, a type of “gingerbread” shock of famous Halloween red hair. One that’s currently the rage in France. My by one, we lined up for photos with one of entrée of feather-light raviolis filled with the country’s legendary female chefs––still delicately spiced Hubbard squash purée a major force in Boston’s culinary scene.

Sandrine’s Bistro By Susan Slack (Charleston) During the Boston Conference Dine- Around, a number of Dames and their guests dined royally at Sandrine’s Bistro, a warm, inviting French- Alsatian restaurant in the heart of Harvard Square in Cambridge. The bistro’s excellent cuisine is represen- tative of a trendy Parisian dining LDEI President Beth Allen and Rialto Restaurant Owner, Jody Adams. Jody hosted an Italian dine- experience known as “Bistronomie”–– around dinner. Photo by CiCi Williamson. bistro merged with gastronomy––in which creative, top chefs use the latest Corrections: techniques but with a more laid-back Ancient Grains Session approach. Hallmarks of the movement include fresh, local ingredients, casual Winter Quarterly 2015, page 15. dining, and fun. French Master Chef The session was about ancient wheats, not Raymond Ost introduced the concept ancient grains more broadly. to Boston Proper with his co-owner- Ancient wheats have a higher protein con- partners Gwen Trost and Amy tent than modern wheats but their gluten Nomejko. To celebrate the season, content is lower, so people with gluten a clever Halloween hat or mask was sensitivities might be able to tolerate them. arranged at each place setting, and the People with coeliac disease should not eat table featured a fall theme of pump- any wheat. kins. Each guest chose favorite selec- Ancient wheats such as spelt, emmer Photos by Susan Slack tions and wines from special menus. (farro) and einkorn require different It was an ideal opportunity for Dames baking techniques than current commercial from different chapters to meet and wheats. A great deal of knowledge about bond over a delicious meal. baking with ancient wheats has been lost.—Maria Speck (Boston)

SPRING Quarterly 2015 19 Dine Around

Gloria Cabral

Northeast Chapter's Green Tables Grazing Party

By Nancy Matheson-Burns Ales, and Polar beverages. Dole & Bailey exotic Cheese Board; Kim (Boston) Over 65 Northeast Dames participated. Mis- Gregory’s Organic cakes and Pastries; Phyl- tresses of Ceremonies were Jenny Johnson lis LeBlanc’s Harborside chocolates; Dame The Northeast Chapter’s Green Tables Graz- and Northeast Chapter president Victoria Orchid Isle Juices, Cabot Cheese by Candace ing Party at the Annual Conference was a Taylor. The D&B CulinaryTeam menu was Karu; Mary Banderack’s baked desserts from HUGE success, thanks to everyone! We loved prepared by Lynn Sgamatteo and friends and Topsfeild Bakery; Liz Mulholland and Sabri- the opportunity to meet and greet our inter- included Nancy Matheson-Burns, Aileen na Peterson’s Valley View Farm cheeses and national sisters hosted by Susie Brown at the Darragh, and Liliana Dougan. Laura Grab- maple syrup. Gluten-free bread items came state-of-the-art kitchen and classrooms located ski presented Northeast Family Farms Beef from Christine Penney, and Zesty Cookies, at the Boston Center for Adult Education Slider with Northcounty Bacon and Chi- from Liz Poole and Heather Amaral. (BCAE). Two hundred attendees including polte Jam and Mushroom Confit, and Keira Also featured were Northeast Chapter Grande Dame Carol Brock, LDEI’s founder, Farmer served her Yankee Farmer NH Bison cookbook authors, nutritionists, educators, were able to browse the BCAE venue and gal- Chili on Corn Cake with aged Cheddar and farmers, vintners, photographers, food activ- lery while tasting gorgeous and yummy tapas- Micro Cilantro. ists, magazine editors, and publishers. As a style dishes from our farm-to-table members. Other dishes included Shirley Richard- special treat, the gallery featured a live 3-piece Foods prepared and served by the Dole & son’s Vermont Chevon Pasture-Raised Goat jazz band and a stunning exhibit of food Bailey Culinary Team included premium Rilettes and Carpacchio; Lisa Colby’s NEFF photography called The Mood of Foods. Each farm-raised beef, lamb, bison, elk, venison, Pork Shoulder confit atop a creamy risotto of attendee received a custom-made Northeast pork, and goat. We sampled award-winning local house-made guanciale, chestnuts, and Dames goodie bag filled to the brim with fun pasta and baked goods, handmade organic fall sage with savory local squash whipped stuff. For additional photos of our special pastries, artisan jams, exotic and cave-ripened cream and crispy “cinnamon toast crunch” evening, visit our Facebook site at cheeses, local fresh fruits, vegetables, grains, pork skin; Lisa Webster’s North Star Sheep www.facebook.com/northeastlesdames exquisite chocolates, Nantucket wines, Peak Farm Braised Lamb; Julianna Knoetter’s and website at www.ldeinortheast.com

Clockwise from Top Left: NORTHEAST CHAPTER of Les Dames d’Escoffier with International registrants at the BCAE. Northeast Dame Barbara Lauterbach sharing her books with some LDEI members. Northeast Dames Shirley Richardson and Nancy Fischer plate the goat appetizer. Northeast Dames Denise Landis and Eva Baughman. LDEI members/conference goers enjoying the Northeast Chapter Dine Around.( L-R) Northeast Dame Jenny Johnson, with LDEI founder /Grande Dame Carol Brock, and Northeast Dame Susie Brown from the BCAE. Incoming and outgoing NORTHEAST CHAPTER BOARD (l-R) Lisa Kamer, Melissa Kogut, Nancy Matheson-Burns, Susie Brown, Victoria Taylor, Sarah Kline, Florence Busch, Laura Grabski, Kim Black. 20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Jane Mengenhauser’s Navy Ship Cook’s Tour

It was a hot Sunday afternoon in 1972 when the USNS Hayes was ria Cabr in its home port on the Glo al Potomac River in Alexan- dria, Virginia. Thousands Helps were lined up to visit the Navy’s Sealift Command’s U.S. Navy new $13.9 million ocean research vessel. Jane Mengenhauser Feed 5,000 (Washington), former food editor of the area’s Journal Newspapers, wanted to get aboard and have a look at By CiCi Williamson the ship’s kitchen and see (Washington) what was cooking without waiting in the long line. So Jane, who says she always gets her story, went to the head of the line and asked How many Dames have piloted an aircraft car- “kitchens”) that feed more than 5,000 hard-working if the Chief Steward was rier, been on an F-18 Navy fighter jet, and sat in the sailors at least three times a day. "Very little is made aboard. She was taken to cockpit of a search-and-rescue helicopter? Only one from scratch," Cabral said. “The galley crews were him and asked what he that I know of: the Boston Chapter’s Gloria Cabral. eager to learn how to be more creative in the kitchen was cooking for dinner for What was she doing there? Teaching Navy cooks, cu- using the available ingredients. It's not like you can the 11 officers, 33 crew linary specialists, and food service assistants how to be go to the store if you need something that you don't members and 30 scientists more creative with $2.9 million worth of staple foods have." However, additional items, such as fresh from Washington’s Naval aboard the giant USS Harry S. Truman aircraft carrier. produce, were replenished at various scheduled stops Research Laboratory. Chef Cabral, Associate Professor of Baking and during the deployment. Many of those waiting to Pastry Arts, Bristol Com- LDSs are considerably tour the ship asked scien- munity College, Fall River, smaller than aircraft carriers. tific questions about the Massachusetts, traveled The USS Oak Hill, home Hayes, a 246-foot catama- aboard the giant ship on a ported in Little Creek, ran, and its mission. Jane trans-Atlantic voyage from Virginia, picked up 400 wanted “the cook’s tour.” Norfolk, Virginia, to Mar- Marines in North Carolina The scientists often worked seilles, France, for almost before steaming across the round-the-clock on their three weeks in the summer Atlantic with the Sixth experiments, so main dish- of 2013. And it’s not the Fleet through the Straits es and snacks were available first time she’s taught on a of Gibraltar to the French to carry them through the U.S. Navy vessel. She’s also Mediterranean port of long hours. done this aboard two LSD Toulon. While in France, Recipes were swapped and (Landing Ship, Dock) am- Gloria cooked for a French one of Jane’s was left with phibious vessels (USS Oak admiral and for the Ameri- Chief Steward Theodore Hill and USS Germantown) plus the Naval bases in can ambassador to France, Craig Roberts Stapleton. “I Munroe who served it Norfolk, Virginia, and Newport, Rhode Island. introduced them to linguica and chourico," she says. “I during a later cruise and It was the Adopt-A-Ship Program that partnered brought them along on the trip. Every Portuguese girl called it Potatoes a la Men- the Naval Supply Systems Command (NAVSUP) has them as part of her dowry." genhauser. Later still, the Food Service Division and the American Culinary Gloria has received many awards including several recipe was sent to the Port Federation, of which Gloria is a very active member, President's Call to Service Awards awarded by the Steward in New York and in an effort to ensure that sailors have the best quality President of the United States to people who have provided to all the ships in food while serving their country. Gloria went to ships completed more than 4,000 hours of community ser- the fleet. Jane’s story about whose galley crews won awards for the best in the vice. She holds a Bachelor’s and two Masters degrees. this interchange ran in The Navy, qualifying them to have a chef come onboard to Her next goal is to become the next director of the Washington Post. teach. The program recently ended. Culinary Arts/CATCH program. The carrier Truman has seven galleys (Navy speak for Photos were taken on the USS Truman

SPRING Quarterly 2015 21 chapter NEws Janet Burgess (LA/OC) Atlanta | Austin | Birmingham | Boston | British Columbia, Canada | Charleston | Chicago Cleveland/Northeast Ohio | Colorado | Dallas | Hawaii | Houston | Kansas City/Heart of America London, England | Los Angeles/Orange County | Miami | MINNESOTA | Monterey Bay Area | NASHVILLE New York | Northeast | Palm Springs | Philadelphia | Phoenix | San Antonio | San Diego San Francisco | Seattle | St. Louis | Washington BOSTON hosted by Chapter President Jennifer Goldman at Fish Restau- Isabel Chesak rant at 442 King Street. The stunning home of Judith Fabre McDonough provided an elegant venue for the 2015 les Dames COLORADO d’Escoffier Potluck and Yankee Swap. Upon entering the Jan Findlater home we were quite impressed by the expansive kitchen Colorado Dames and guests gathered for a book signing and with its marble counters and five burner Viking range. chapter fundraiser on Thursday, November 13, to celebrate Rose Prosecco was poured as we admired the huge Christmas Levy Berenbaum’s new book The Baking Bible. Holly Arnold tree festooned with red and gold garlands and swags. A Kinney hosted the event at her legendary The Fort Restaurant comfortable fire provided warmth and cheer for the guests in Morrison. Guests braved subzero temperatures to attend the who enjoyed delicious culinary offerings. A large platter book launch party and celebrate with Rose. The Fort’s famous of smoked salmon served with toasty bagels along with hors d’oeuvres were served along with champagne and samples warm, cheesy gougeres made a fine accompaniment to an of dessert recipes from Rose’s book. assortment of vintages. We held our annual holiday potluck at the home of Carol As we sipped, snacked, and feasted, a Christmas concert Fenster on December 7. We were thrilled to welcome two of our of classics played softly in the background. The dining newest members to our chapter: Jane Bauer, from the American room was decorated with silver poinsettias and a hand- Cheese Society, is responsible for their Certified Cheese Profes- some tablecloth of navy blue crushed velvet bearing the sional Program, which encourages improved standards of com- delicious dishes Dames had prepared including a creamy prehensive cheese knowledge. Judy Donahoe is owner of Outside carrot soup, tomato vegetable tart, spicy baked spiral ham, the Box, a wine education and events business for the industry and broccoli salad. There were numerous desserts: a moist and consumers that extends beyond Colorado. As always, our orange yogurt tart, a creamy pumpkin cheesecake, and a past and present scholarship winners (and hopefully future LDEI) huge apple Tarte Tatin. After a “cutthroat” Yankee Swap, members joined us for our holiday celebration. we Dames were able to return home with smiles on our faces and many thanks to our generous hostess for this Dallas celebratory culinary event. Jennifer Moschel Most of the Dallas Dames have CHARLESTON been recuperating from the hustle Deidre Schipani and Jennifer Goldman of the holidays. However, we Our festive holiday gathering on December 8 was hosted still had time to get together at by Faye Gooding at L’Atelier Le Creuset (“Le Creu- Asian Mint in December for a set Workshop”), which is also the national marketing brief meeting and great nibbles headquarters. A delicious spread of Italian specialties was from chef/owner and new Dame catered by Celia Cerasoli of Celia’s of Charleston, which Nikky Phinatawana. Nikky was a specializes in artisanal 30-layer lasagne. Wine and cham- wonderful hostess spoiling us with pagne were generously provided by Moet-Hennessey and delicious food and allowing us to Cassandra Hall help her select wines for her new Bushey. Dur- menu. Not an empty wine glass, ing the festivi- tummy, or heart in the house! ties the chapter December brought the Dallas presented the Dames very sad news. Our beloved Diane Teitelbaum passed Lowcountry away on December 7. Diane was a pioneer in the wine and hos- Food Bank pitality industry here.This has been a huge loss for our chapter a check for and there are plans to honor Diane with a wine dinner coming $5000. in fall of 2015. (See separate “In Memory” on page 25.) We again January brought us back into the swing of a new year. Our meet- hosted our ing was held at 3015 Trinity Groves followed by a guacamole/salsa annual recep- “chopped” competition, spearheaded by Tara Anderson. Teams tion for visiting of Dames had a friendly competition with traditional ingredients Dames during mixed in with a couple of mystery basket ingredients. Categories the Charleston included: best use of ingredients, best guacamole, and best salsa. A BB&T Wine (L-R): Dame Susan Wigley with Charles- great way to get out of our cold weather + Food Festival ton Chapter scholarship winners: Chaisson on March 5, for Dangerfield (College of Charleston), Alea KANSAS CITY wine, snacks, and Harkawik (Art Institute), Courtney Ever- ton (College of Charleston), Alyssa Brewe LDEI President Lori Willis (St. Louis) attended the induction authentic Charles- (Trident Tech), and Leeanne Lower (College of new members at the Kansas City Chapter’s dinner. She wrote, ton hospitality. of Charleston). Jennifer Goldman presents a “I felt as if I had come full circle standing in front of the 32 (of The reception was $5000 check to the Lowcountry Food Bank. 22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 45!) Kansas City Dames entering the culinary field and to maintain our edible school nested comfortably in the garden program. back dining hall of the On March 8, we held our elegant fundraiser among the flow- Blue Bird Café, courtesy ers, the sixth annual Tropical Brunch in the Garden at Miami of owner Jane Zieha, with Beach Botanical Garden, chaired by Dames Morgan Nims and then-president Kathy Maggie Rodriguez. Moore and incoming President Kimberly Stern MINNESOTA and their very welcoming Board. Mary Levinski Mary Levinski’ “Kathy Gottsacker (San s students Antonio), Beth Huch (St from Sauk Rapids-Rice High Louis), and I started out School (SRRHS) partnered as members of the Kansas City chapter before launching the St. Louis with the Minneapolis Mar- Chapter. In 2007, the Kansas City team, including two members from quette Hotel to recreate a the St. Louis area, inducted us into their Chapter and provided the gingerbread hotel in the exact foundation for what is now a growing chapter of about 44 women. replica of the Marquette itself. “In 2008 there were about 1500 members of LDEI. Today there are The hotel, because of their work 1897. It occurs to me that regional partnership among Chapters and with the ProStart program and members is just one of the ways we can stay connected as an organiza- Hospitality MN Education tion and continue our amazing growth.” —Lori Willis Foundation, contacted SRRHS. Through the National ProStart program, students have many MIAMI opportunities to work with Ellen Kanner chefs and managers in the Les Dames Miami started the year fresh from the field. Winter is our hospitality industry. ProStart growing season and our chapter celebrated with a visit to the farms of has been established in Minne- Teena Borek of Teena’s Pride and Thi Squireof Verde Farms. A team sota for the past nine years and effort organized by the Green Tables Committee, chaired by Claire their curriculum gives students Tomlin, and the Outreach Committee, chaired by Nancy Ancrum, the the tools necessary to explore half-day event featured farm tours, cooking demos, and a farm-to-table careers in food service and lunch with a bounty of just-picked produce. hospitality. On January 31, we held our sixth annual GGG (Giant Gourmet Students worked with Chef Group photo caption: Garage Sale), a grassroots fundraiser, at the home of Jo Anne Bander. Timothy Kovacs on the creation Front row: Madelaine Virchow; Co-Chaired by Vice President Lola Domitrovich and Adri Garcia, we and were allowed to be as Matt Skozen, Maia Haapke, sold kitchenware, table linens, serveware and other culinary must-haves. Loganne Kirt, Maddie Waseka. creative as they could be, yet Standing: Todd Temperly, General Most popular, as always, was the fresh, local produce from our grower remain loyal to the original look Manager; Shae Waseka; Nikki Dames and the cookies, breads and preserves prepared by the Dames of the hotel. When students Bukowski; Abby Schiller; Mary themselves. All proceeds support our scholarship program for women finished the creation the hotel Levinski; Chef Timothy Kovacs.

NASHVILLE Lori Willis Congratulations to Nashville Chapter President Nancy Knoepful who recently inducted 47 charter members at a reception hosted in the beautiful Opryland Hotel. Andrea Case, former president of the Atlanta Chapter, was also Nashville important to the new chapter’s founding and is the guid- Chapter Presi- ing past president on the board responsible for all the legal dent Nancy Knoepfel and business requirements for the Nashville Chapter. It was LDEI President my honor to attend and bring greetings from the Board. I Lori Willis. was struck by the diversity of profession among their team Nashville which, I believe, will help strengthen the new chapter. Their officers: Anne recent induction ceremony concluded with nearly everyone Byrn, Billie Joyce Helm- signing up for a committee assignment! The Nashville Board kay, Charlotte invites all Chapters to connect with them and share best Miller, Robin practices, ideas and suggestions over the course of the year. Riddell, Laurie Nancy said, “We very much need mentorship from other Potts, Lantz Rucker, Nancy chapters. Please send suggestions on developing successful Knoepfel. commitees or emailing contacts for fundraising, programs, Group Photo communications, PR, newsletter, archives, website, scholar- Names: Front ship, education, membership, Green Tables, community Row: Laurie Potts, Emily Frith, Tasha Kennard, Cindy Chambers, Karen Himmer outreach/education, and mentorship. We want to strike Varnsdel. Row 2: Teresa Kereakes, Paulette Lecitra, Nealya Parish, Chanel Smith, Robin Riddell. Row 3: Cara Graham, Cynthia Himmelfarb, Anne Byrn, Viviana Lu- while the irons are hot. Massive action, massive results!” ison, Billie Joyce Helmkay, Jessica Collins, Beth Sachan, Merijoy Lantz Rucker. Back [email protected] Row: Dina Starks, Michelle Hodges, Nancy Knoepfel, Robin Dennis, Jill Melton, Sylvia Ganier, Charlotte Miller, Mindy Merrell

SPRING Quarterly 2015 23 had a formal unveiling for the public. inspired meal, As a FACS instructor, Mary advises students at SRRHS. She created by Chef has been teaching ProStart from its inception. Her students Hale and based participate in the State ProStart Invitational where the students on historical showcase their culinary skills and introduce an original restaurant menus from concept each year. SRRHS has had much success winning at the restaurants at state level the past seven years and participating in the National the 1904 ProStart Invitational each year. Their best finish at nationals has World’s Fair. been second place in 2013. Mary feels that “ProStart has brought Many excitement and creativity to the classroom that builds on indus- Dames Photos by try skills.” She also adds that, “the students are engaged and have contrib- Barbara Gibbs a passion for this program.” uted to the Ostmann success of New York this magical event, said Linda Lawry program chair Beth Huch, of St. Louis Culinary Tours. Our chapter saw out the old year and welcomed in the new, Beth thanks these members for their generous donations of with two outstanding events. On December 11, we held a time, expertise and/or product: Moira Ross, Plum Vintage wonderful Holiday Party at Pamela Morgan’s glorious east side Rental & Design; Marianne Moore, Dierbergs; Millie apartment, overlooking Central Park. Organized by Eleanor Mattfeld-Beman, St. Louis University Department of Di- Sigona, members provided wonderful food, excellent wines and etetics; Marilyn Freundlich, Poptions Popcorn; and Rose inventive cocktails. Beckerle, Companion Bread. At this time of year, when New York is at its festive best, we Iced tea is one of the many foods made popular at the held “Welcome to 2015” at Morrell Wine Bar, beneath the tree 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis. Students from St. Louis in Rockefeller Plaza. Roberta Morrell, supplied the space and University served iced tea in front of the Missouri History delightful wine and food. It was a lovely time, spent with friends. Museum to Dames on the St. Louis Chapter’s culinary tour A great start to 2015! of Forest Park. San Antonio Blanca Aldaco WASHINGTON The San Antonio Chapter—for the sixth consecutive year— Ann Stratte filled the halls with Joy and Holiday Cheer at the Roy Maas’ A chic Georgetown Youth Alternative Inc. Seventeen at-risk children ranging from hair salon, ILO, proved 12 to 16 years of age forgot about the outside world for approxi- to be the perfect venue mately three hours. The Christmas event started by building for the inaugural “Culi- gingerbread houses; then the children and Roy Maas staff were nary Women In Words,” served a delicious lunch consisting of grilled on-site Filet Mignon a book signing event and delicious trimming, followed by hot cocoa, cookies, loud featuring 17 of our Karaoke and plenty of gifts for each child. talented D.C. Dames and Dames have a high participation in this meaningful event as their publications. Each they believe this IS what Christmas is all about. author occupied a station Roy Maas’ Youth Alternatives, Inc, is committed to caring promoting her works, for children in crisis. Our promise to the community is that and guests gathered at we will give every child and family seeing our services our the shampoo bowls to fill complete dedication and attention. Based on the principles of their champagne flutes. respect and responsibility, it is our goal to give children a foun- Attendees had an oppor- dation of positive values, which will promote future success and tunity to pick up holiday end the cycle of abuse. gifts for their cookbook- loving friends, chat with ST. LOUIS the authors while sipping Barbara Gibbs Ostmann wine and sampling recipes St. Louis Dames took a walk through history to go “Beyond the from the featured books. Ice Cream Cone” on a 1904 World’s Fair Tour through Forest On hand to make this Domenica Marchetti and Bonnie Park, the city’s major green space (larger than New York’s Central a special afternoon were Benwick.Monica Bhide, Carla Hall, Park). Forest Park was the site of the headline-making 1904 and Cathy Barrow. Photos by Dame authors Nancy Monica Bhide. World’s Fair, which helped popularize many foods that are com- Baggett, Cathy Barrow, mon today, from the ice cream cone to iced tea to the hot dog on Najmieh Batmanglij, Bonnie Benwick, Monica Bhide, a bun, and more. Nongkran Daks, Aviva Goldfarb, Ellen Gray, Ruth The June program combined the knowledge of Pamela Vaccaro, Gresser, Carla Hall, Pati Jinich, Sheilah Kaufman, author of Beyond the Ice Cream Cone: The Whole Scoop on Food Domenica Marchetti, Theresa Morrison, Nancy Piho, at the 1904 Worlds’ Fair (Enid Press, 2004), with the culinary Amy Riolo and Katherine Tallmadge. Proceeds from expertise of Chef Rex Hale, of The Restaurant at The Cheshire, ticket sales to the event will go towards the Les Dames for a day of food, fun and history. DC Scholarship Fund. It was special honor to have Carol The day began with an on-and-off bus tour of Forest Park, Brock and Joan Carris come down from New York to be with food stations and samples strategically located along the part of the festivities. We celebrated Carol’s 91st birthday route. After seeing the places where culinary history was made, at Ris Lacoste’s restaurant, RIS, following the event. we returned to The Cheshire for a magnificent World’s Fair-

24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International in memoriam Parker. She soon became the manager and wine expert. She was Diane Tietelbaum (Dallas) also wine consultant for American Airlines during her career. ByDotty Griffith D Magazine restaurant critic Nancy Nichols called Diane a “Dallas food and wine feminist.” Nancy wrote, “In 1985 wom- The Dallas food and wine communi- en were fighting for equality in the food, wine, and restaurant ties and the Dallas Chapter said a joyous business. Teitelbaum’s fierce determination was a major force goodbye to a trailblazer on December in putting women in the forefront—not just in Dallas but in 15, 2014. The joy wasn’t that Diane Texas. She was an indomitable force, bossy and smart in a good Teitelbaum is gone. But joyous was how way. She always spoke with conviction and one did not second Diane and her husband, attorney Bill guess her judgment.” Teitelbaum, wanted her goodbye party Locally, Diane was a guiding force behind Cotes du Coeurs, a to be: A life celebration as fun and exu- celebrity chef gala and wine auction that annually raises thou- berant as the woman it celebrated. sands for the American Heart Association. Her work with then- Diane Teitelbaum, 68, a Dallas Chap- Dallas Times Herald restaurant critic Michael Bauer pairing fine ter founder, died December 7 at Texas wines with emerging Southwestern cuisine helped put Dallas on Health Presbyterian Hospital after a brief illness. the international culinary map. The Dallas Chapter hosted about 200 men, women, and Jeff Seigel (www.winecurmudgeon.com) paid tribute to Teitel- family members for lunch, wine, toasts, and tributes to the baum’s legendary penchant for arriving late. Although not per- woman who mentored, taught, scolded, laughed with and at, fect, Diane was a true professional in the business that attracts a and loved, them. lot of snobs, blowhards, and wannabes. Seigel wrote that losing Diane wrote a wine column during my time as food editor Diane meant that he would no longer drive her to The Dallas at The Dallas Morning News. A wine writer, international wine Morning News wine competition where they were judges. judge, wine authority, and wine retailer, Diane was known inter- Siegel said. “She was famous worldwide for her inability to get nationally for her palate. She was called a “supertaster.” anywhere on time. We both knew that if I didn’t pick her up, Never shy about sharing her opinion or her talent, Diane there was a 50-50 chance she might not make it. Which would was also a super pioneer in a business dominated by men at be a damn shame, because judging with Diane made every the time. Her food and wine career began as a waitress at The competition that much better.” Grape, Dallas’s first wine bistro, founded by two other Les Though often super late, Diane Teitelbaum was a supertaster, a Dames charter members, Kathy McDaniel and Charlotte super professional, and a super friend for 40 years.

GLOBAL A Touch of the Heart: A Dim Sum Brunch CULINARY By Eileen Dykes (Washington) Did you know that “dim sum“ means “a touch of the heart”? Neither did many postcard of the 70 Washington Chapter members and non-members who joined Janet Yu at her restaurant, the Hollywood East Café. Janet is the chef/owner of this Whea- ton, Maryland, restaurant for the past 14 years. Chef Yu grew up in her parents’ Chinese restaurant, which they owned and operated for 30 years in the Washing- ton metro area. In 1977, taught by her grandfather, she opened the only Chinese bakery in the area making dim sum and sweet pastries. Janet explained the history of “dim sum,” and, through a video presentation, described the varieties of dim sum doughs and fillings. The video showed her cooks making the many items we sampled: congee, fritters, two types of dumplings, bean sheet rolls, shu mai, shrimp taro cakes, pork buns, turnip cakes, crepes, green vegetables, sesame balls, and baked custard buns. Several attendees mentioned that they didn’t realize the labor intensive process that went into the making of dim sum. A non-member said she now has a new appreciation for the amount of time and effort that goes into preparing these beautiful morsels. Included in the menu were chicken feet. No one attending had ever tried them—and may never again! As we were leaving, several folks were already planning their return to this wonderful restaurant operated by Chef Janet Yu.

SPRING Quarterly 2015 25 Member Milestones Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia) ATLANTA division, À La Ann Kirsebom’s new “PARIS IN A Virginia Willis will be on a multi-city Carte, which offers CHOCOLATE” chocolates are now tour for her cookbook, Lighten Up, Y’all. support for a full available. With Licensing Agreements Southern Living’s review stated...“If you range of culinary with Grand Marnier Lapostolle in France think Southern classics don’t fit into a and publishing and Callebaut Chocolate/Cacao Barry in sensible diet, these lightened-up versions endeavors from Zurich, her latest creation is a decadent will show you how they can…Willis photography and Callebaut Chocolate and Grand Marnier reminds us why she’s one of the most recipe testing, to Truffle Sauce. Chefanns.com creative cooks in the South.” ghost writing and Lisa Ekus CHARLESTON Karen Bremer has been elected to social media as- sistance. Andrea Limehouse’s Limehouse Pro- serve on the board of directors for the duce has been named recipient of the Maria Speck National Restaurant Association which ’s 2014 South Carolina Excellence Award is governed by a volunteer board, led by cookbook, Simply by the U.S. Institute for Advancement a Washington, D.C. based president and Ancient Grains— of Trade and Commerce. Limehouse chief executive officer. Board members Fresh and Flavor- trucks can be seen delivering their goods consist of directors from across the ful Whole Grain to restaurants all over the Lowcountry! country that represents every facet of the Recipes for Living restaurant industry. Well ( Ten Speed Marla Speck Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree was Press) is a follow honored by her peers, community, Austin up to her award-winning Ancient Grains friends, and family at a HOLIDAY Susan Auler, for Modern Meals which makes cooking TOAST + TRIBUTE Dinner to benefit co-founder of Fall with whole grains easy, more intuitive, the BB&T Charleston Wine + Food Creek Vineyards, and enjoyable. Most of her family- Festival’s scholarship programs. A Tow, Texas, an- friendly recipes are gluten-free. www. 5-course dinner took place at Slightly nounced a second mariaspeck.com North of Broad, one of Nathalie’s fa- location in Drift- vorite restaurants. Lauren Mitterer and wood, Texas, in British Columbia Michelle Weaver contributed a course 2015. Fall Creek is to the outstanding menu. Susan Auler The British Columbia Chapter is proud the third winery in to announce that the founders of both Texas and recently CHICAGO of their celebrated Green Tables projects nabbed two of the Carrie Nahabedian are now both members. Welcome Merri highest awards at was guest chef on a Schwartz of Growing Chefs who joins the Los Angeles Silversea Athens to Barbara Findlay of Project Chef. International Wine Venice cruise and Competition. Dana Reinhardt is offering cooking also was a featured chef, cooking at Stephanie Mc- classes on an organic, family-run farm and inn in Tuscany, Italy. Participants Fortune Magazine’s Clenny, owner Stephanie McClenny will enjoy seven days of hands-on cook- “Most Powerful of Confituras, is ing classes using seasonal ingredients Women in the excited that her Wild Plum Jam was Carrie Nahabedlan from the Casa Caponetti farm’s biody- World’ Summit at named as a 2014 Good Food Award Fi- namic vegetable gardens and foraged the Ritz Carlton Laguna Niguel. nalist. This is her fourth finalist nomina- from forests. Students will also explore tion; the other three won awards. the artisan shops and visit vineyards. KANSAS CITY Roxanne Rachel Laudan Casacaponetti.com ’s Wyss and Cuisine and Empire: Jen Peters and partner Chef Hamid Sa- Kathy Cooking in World limian have launched a retail line of their Moore History won an Nextjen Gluten-Free products. Nextjen announce IACP Award in sprouts and mills their own buckwheat their new- 2013. Recent and creates a gluten-free, GMO free est cook- speaking engage- flour with no Xanthan gum or corn. An book, The ments were: the All-Purpose Baking Blend and Sprouted Newlywed Flavor, Quality and Roxanne Wyss and Kathy Moore Rachel Laudan Buckwheat Pancake & Waffle Mix are Cookbook: American Menus now available at nextjen.ca Cooking Happily Ever After (St. Mar- Conference, CIA in St. Helena; Inter- Lee Murphy’s fine Vista d’Oro pre- tin’s Press). Recipes for quick dinners national Conference on Food Heritage, serves, available across North America, and special events that occur the first Hybridity and Locality, Brown Universi- are now for sale on the shelves of Har- year of marriage, plus tips for selecting ty; and, food symposium at the Museum rod’s in London! Lee crafts a line of pre- and using items on the gift registry, are of Contemporary Art in Cleveland. serves and specialty wines featuring their included. BOSTON local, farm-free ingredients in Langley, Judith Fertig has three books out this The Lisa Ekus Group launched their B.C. vistadoro.com spring. Two cookbooks: published by newly designed website www.lisaekus. Running Press, Bake Happy and Bistro com. The agency announced their new

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International BBQ, with Karen Adler. Judith’s novel The ST. LOUIS Rose Ann Finkel and her husband Charles, Cake Therapist (Penguin Random House) Lynn Krause, who moved to Texas in May, owners of Pike Brewing Co., were recently centers on a pastry chef with a special gift and spent Christmas 2014 participating with The recognized in an article in the Puget Sound all the trouble she stirs up. Mercy Chefs feeding approximately 3500 Business Journal as culinary trailblazers in homeless for 17 days in 19 locations in the Seattle. The article traces the company’s 25- Los Angeles/Orange COunty Dallas/Ft. Worth area December 15 thru year history from their beginnings in 1989 as Natasha MacAller, international chef, has 31. Healing prayer with heaping plates of one of the state’s first craft breweries. created a truly global compendium vanilla scrumptious food were served. Julie Kramis Herne Amanda Bevill expertise in her book, Vanilla Table: The and ’s Essence of Exquisite Cooking from the World’s SAN ANTONIO new cookbook, World Spice at Home: New Best Chefs (Jacqui Small). It showcases this Bunny Becker’s winery Becker Vineyards Flavors for 75 Favorite Recipes, was featured most exotic and yet everyday spice in over was listed as #93 on the “101 Best Wineries in an article in The Boston Globe titled “The 100 vanilla in America” at http://www.msn.com/en-us/ Spice is Right in Seattle Authors’ Recipes.” dishes, sweet foodanddrink/wines/101-best-wineries-in- The article was also recommended in The and savory. america/ss-BBgVbYL. Seattle Times “Books for Cooks” column. Kim Smith, CEPC Pastry and Baking Arts Elizabeth San Diego Borsting Instructor at South Seattle College, was one Sara Wilson, Managing Partner, Market Terri of five faculty members awarded tenure in and Hall Foods, and President, Manicaretti Henry are 2014. “These five instructors combine a high Italian Food Imports, was inducted into the level of expertise in their fields with a love the founders inaugural class of the Specialty Food Associa- of Eat LBC, for teaching and a passion for student suc- Elizabeth Borsting and Terri Henry tion’s Hall of Fame. Its Mission is to honor Long Beach cess,” according to the Seattle Colleges Board individuals whose accomplishments, impact, of Trustees. Restaurant Week, celebrated its second year contributions, innovations, and successes with more than 70 participating restaurants deserve praise and recognition. WASHINGTON and national sponsors. including Celebrity Aviva Goldfarb was featured in a Washing- Cruises, JetBlue and Dreambox Creations, San Francisco ton Post video “Making Dinnertime Hap- the leading full-service digital agency for the Teri Sandison’s new cookbook, Mexican pen” and in the Local Living section’s Family restaurant industry. www.eatlbc.com Flavors (Andrews McMeel), co-authored section on January 7, 2015. with husband Hugh Carpenter, features MIAMI Ann Yonkers the recipes and the culture of San Miguel was presented with the Down- Jen Karetnick announces the publication of de Allende, Mexico. Their winter schedule town Person of the Year Award by Down- her cookbook, Mango (University Press of included running cooking sessions at Camp townDC business improvement district in Florida) and her food/wine book of poems, San Miguel. a December 4 ceremony at the Carnegie Li- Brie Season (White Violet Press). She’ll be brary. Ann and Bernie Prince were featured reading and signing these at the Virginia Fes- Seattle in the Washington Post Food section, January tival of the Book, Charlottesville, Virginia; Karen Binder was the food and beverage 7, in a story about their dual retirement UCF Book Festival, Orlando, Florida; and chair for the 2014 American Cancer Society from FreshFarm Markets. Joe’s Place, Greenville, South Carolina. Hope Gala held in Seattle in October. Lisa Cherkasky styled Washingtonian maga- Eight celebrity chefs NASHVILLE zine’s cover that won FOLIO’s 2014 Eddie contributed small Mindy Merrell and Ozzie Awards for Best Cover Design. appeared on the Food Net- plates each of which work’s Chopped October 21, 2014 episode She also styled the December 23 cover of the she paired with two Washington Post Magazine. “Offal Surprise” and took home the champi- celebrity winemakers. Stacey Adams onship prize. She was declared the winner in The very successful ’ Tastings Gourmet Market part because the judges were impressed with event raised twice the in Annapolis has been voted by Bay Weekly her preparation of Rocky Mountain oysters. previous year’s record readers as Best Cheese Shop in the area in the December 24th issue. New York for ACS. Karen Binder Amy Brandwein Emily Snyder is now Vice President Global Jamie Peha, founder was the honored com- Sales for Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group. and president of Peha Promotions, strategic mencement speaker for L’Academie de Cuisine’s December 2014 graduating class. Melanie Young is host marketing company, and TableTalk North- west multi-media company, was featured in Amy is a 2001 graduate of the school and to two new national has gone on to an esteemed career as a chef. radio shows: “The a full-page article in 425 Business Magazine Bettina Stern Suzanne Simon Connected Table,” (November 2014) as a leading business and opened profiling dynamic executive. their first first brick-and-mortar Chaia taco people in the world Kathy Casey, the original “Bar Chef” was shop this spring in Georgetown at 3207 of food and beverage named as a Top 10 Most Influential People Grace Street, N.W. The shop will serve a and “Fearless Fabulous of the Past 25 Years by Cheers Magazine. In- larger selection of the artisanal, vegetarian tacos that made them so successful at the You!” The later focuses Melanie Young dividuals were chosen for their direct impact on health, wellness and on raising the bar in the cocktail culture, Dupont Circle and White House Freshfarm interviews of women with inspiring stories. including her early involvement in the bar- Markets over the past two years. For information in being a guest, for either chef movement. show, contact info@theconnectedtable.

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30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

KK 1641 Orange Sauce Ad_final.indd 1 12/17/14 2:10 PM Submission Guidelines Deadlines 2015 SUMMER ISSUE - APRIL 10, 2015 2015 FALL ISSUE - AUGUST 1, 2015 2016 WINTER ISSUE - November 7, 2015 Photography/Images Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet resolution requirements. Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals in photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH CAPTIONS Does Your Typing TO BE PUBLISHED. Member Milestones Reveal Your Age? LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 words It does if you are still typing two about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, to appear spaces after each sentence. Most in print. Please include a website URL, if applicable. You may email a quality of us learned touch typing in the headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not 20th century when computer accepted. Email your Member Milestone and photo to Member Milestone Editor, desktop publishing didn’t exist. Dottie Koteski at [email protected] by the deadline listed above. Now with computers design- Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of ing documents, one space after a Dames networking at conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to sentence-ending punctuation is best. This is so the “kerning” won’t this section. Note: Due to space constraints, only two Member Milestones will be throw off the spacing in a docu- published per Dame per year. ment and also to save unneeded Chapter News characters. CHAPTER XXX (By, the submitter's name, office-or title, if any). Each chapter Kerning adjusts space between two letters. Set too closely togeth- may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may include er, words are indecipherable; set photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements above. too far apart, and they’re awkward Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy submission to read. Worse yet, if some letters on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; contact the editor have wider spacing and others in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space to narrower, it can be frustrating for print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not someone to read without fully conforming to this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s understanding what’s wrong. lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at [email protected] by the So if you don’t want to show deadline date. Entries received after this date may appear in the following your age, watch your thumb issue. Note: "Chapter News" and "Member Milestones" may be dispersed on that space bar. One bump is through LDEI social-media channels, as well as in print and online. enough. Don’t be so 20th cen- tury!—CiCi Williamson E-News This bimonthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an email contact, date, time, and cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking classes, or tours. You will receive a reminder call for “E-News” email. Respond to E-News Editor, Shelley Pedersen, at [email protected]

Upcoming in the summer issue • Dames Who Are Supermarket Executives • Auguste Escoffier–-Patron Saint of Chefs • 2015 Grande Dame Nominees

SPRING Quarterly 2015 31 Atlanta PREsorted Austin First Class Birmingham u s Postage Boston P.O. Box 4961 British Columbia, Canada paid Charleston Louisville, KY 40204 Louisville KY Chicago Permit #1051 Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America London, England Los Angeles/Orange County Miami Minnesota Monterey Bay Area Nashville New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle St. Louis Washington

Charleston: Come to Conference Early, Stay Late

Photo by Nancie McDermott Charleston wraps her arms around family-owned and-operated restaurants you with the sweet embrace of fragrant where blessings and bounty are served oleander and tea olive. She is the con- in equal measure. Listen for the ca- servator of America’s oldest landscaped dence of Old Charlestonese and catch gardens, Middleton Place, and home a whisper of Gullah speech. to America’s only continental tea Travel on your appetite to world- garden––The Charleston Tea Planta- class restaurants, and tap into the local tion. Both are groomed for a proper brew pubs and biergartens where local Dearest Dames, welcome for those who look to rest ingredients are blended into hoppy and their eyes on nature. happy libations of craft beers. You are cordially invited to join us in our Charleston’s old, historic districts Put on your bracelet of discovery magical, beloved city and stay a spell. Mark your showcase architecture, history, and and be captivated by delicious that calendars now for our annual LDEI Conference–– culture. This port city, with its 1670 appears on every plate; by smiles that October 29 through November 1. We can’t wait to origins, offers the rare vantage of build- etch every local’s face; by the sounds of shower you with warm hospitality and share our ings with colonial pedigree through the Charleston that resonate from Porgy traditions, culture, and history. Meet you in the antebellum period and into the 20th and Bess, to gospel spirituals, to jazz, port city where surcees (special treats) and sweet tea century––all revealing rich layers of Come sit a bit in this town of contra- are served with you in mind. You can’t ever get too history, décor, design and diversity. diction, where history is retold and much Charleston. Historic preservation thrives here the future is re-imagined. From public Sincerely, as does a food culture that is rich in parks to private gardens, the gates are Paige Canaday Crone, traditions beginning with rice: a crop always open. 2015 Conference Chair that established a Rice Kingdom in The Charleston Chapter cordially Deidre Schipani, the Southeast and Charleston’s original invites you to the Lowcountry where Conference Advisory Committee “wealth management” for the planters. they are draping Live Oaks with moss, Jennifer Goldman, Come and feast on she-crab soup, sweeping the slate sidewalks with plea- Charleston Chapter President shrimp and grits, okra, and pilau. sure, and rolling out a blue carpet of Genuflect at the table of Bertha’s welcome. Come early, stay late: “Doin’ Kitchen and at Martha Lou’s Kitchen: The Charleston” takes time.