Winners Grand Prize Winner Are

FALL 2014

M.F.K. Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing

the 2014 Nina Mukerjee Furstenau, Winners Grand Prize Winner are...

Stacy Schultz, Print Category Winner

Also Inside … Edible London Tour LDEI Board in Washington

Carol Penn-Romine, Internet Category Winner ABOUT THE COVER Because writing is like making a quilt from words, I asked Quarterly designers, Bernie Mudd-White and Joni Keith, to incorporate fabric images illustrative of the M.F.K. Fisher Award- winning stories. Look closely to see an Indian-motif fabric behind grand prize winner, Nina Mukerjee Furstenau; a fish design behind Internet category winner, Carol Penn-Romine; and Hebrew mosaics behind Print category winner, Stacy Schultz. See pages 4-8 for the feature about these talented food writers. —CiCi Williamson

from the editor The Younger Generation FALL 2 O14 In two decades, it will be the year 2034. Sounds as futuristic as George Orwell’s 1984 did to people when that book was published in 1949! I’m confident LDEI will be even stronger and more influential in 2034 than we are today. That’s because we’re ensuring our future success by the In This Issue various programs of our chapters and our international organization. We can be proud that the expertise of our founding members and the accomplishments of subsequent generations of Dames are being FEATURES implanted in the next generation of food professionals. Points in case: M.F.K. Fisher Awards • Millions of scholarship dollars have been raised and disbursed by 4 chapters to women in university and culinary 9 LDEI Meeting in Washington institutions (see pages 22-25). • Many of these scholarship recipients continue 10 Edible London to be mentored by Dames. • Legacy Awards conduct on-the-job training 14 Why Join the Brock Circle? in many food professions. Attend the Legacy Awards Luncheon at the Boston Conference to 15 LDNY Honors Carol Brock hear about this year’s recipients. Kikkoman Washoku Initiative • The Global Culinary Initiative promotes the 16 understanding of other cultures and their foods. 18 We BeLOnG • Green Tables programs teach the younger generation about fresh produce and how to prepare it (see the Seattle 20 Green Tables Chapter’s event on page 20). I expect that my youngest grandson, six- month-old Creighton Williamson (pictured above), will participate in a DEPARTMENTS few years. • School gardens, supported by many chapters, also provide the oppor- 22 Chapter News tunity for students to see where their food comes from, grow crops, and develop an appreciation for fresh, local food. 26 Member Milestones • The Brock Circle will help to ensure our organization’s financial stability for generations to come (see pages 14-15). 31 Submission Guidelines • LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Award encourages excellence in food writing, and one of the three top winners this year is barely 30 years old (see page 8). Back to 1984 (the novel): It was set in London, recently visited during the fabulous Edible London tour (see pages 10-13). By 1989, the novel had been translated into 65 languages, more than any other novel in English at the time. And the phrase, “Big brother is watching you,” originated in the novel. For Dames of the future, one can hope that “Sister Dames will be watching” over the upcoming generations of women food, beverage, and hospitality professionals, and that the mission of Les Dames will be translated into many more languages. —CiCi Williamson, Editor, Fall Quarterly

Left to right: Ann Stratte, Maria Gomez, Lori Willis, Greg Jewell, Drew Faulkner, Beth Allen, and Alison Rittenberg (DC Tourism Office) visit potential hotels for the LDEI 2016 Annual Conference to be held in Washington. 2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PResident's Message 2014 LDEI Board of Directors The mission of the LDEI Board is to Leaping into Fall with LDEI foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters LDEI is swinging into fall at a fast pace! and by implementing program initiatives. With your help, your LDEI Board has ac- It provides leadership, guidance, complished many goals this year. Connectivity education, connectivity, and effective and communications between your LDEI Board communication among LDEI members. and each of you are better than ever. Thanks President to Board members’ visits to local chapters, my Beth Allen Founder/President, Beth Allen Associates, Inc. monthly President’s letters (chock full of news!), 347 W 22nd Street, Suite #9 frequent e-blasts, LDEI’s first-ever Annual New York, NY 10011 Report, the initiation of two All-Chapter (212) 206-1138 | [email protected] Presidents’ Calls, and the Chapter Board First Vice President Lori Willis Liaisons’ increasingly close connections with Director of Communications chapter presidents. LDEI’s presence is growing Schnuck Markets, Inc. publicly on social media channels (42% in- 11420 Lackland Rd. St. Louis, MO 63146 crease in followers on Twitter) and the Legacy (314) 994-4602 | [email protected] Award winners have been busy tweeting their Second Vice President experiences on Twitter (#LDEILegacy). The Braiden Rex-Johnson Founder/Owner, Northwest Wining financial strength of LDEI is growing—through and Dining, LLC our successful 2013 CharityBuzz fundraising 98 Union Street, Suite 1009 auction ($7,956 total net earnings—59% over Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 233-9491 our goal!), and the Brock Circle now has 38 [email protected] members. We’ve focused on increasing member Third Vice President education, resulting in two webinars (the best Cathy Cochran-Lewis attended ever!) and the initiation of four, Global Marketing, Programs Coordinator Whole Foods Market focused educational tracks during our upcom- ~ Rave Reviews from Edible London! 11504 Sundown Trail ing Boston Conference. Read all about the extraordinarily successful Austin, TX 78739 As I write my last Quarterly Message, I am and memorable Edible London tour this past (512) 627-5599 [email protected] increasingly proud to have had the honor to May, hosted by 17 London Dames and Secretary be your president this year. Together we’ve enjoyed by 27 Dames representing 18 Maria Gomez-LAURENS accomplished a lot! chapters. It’s all beautifully scribed and Manager, Global Accounts, HelmsBriscoe photographed by Quarterly Editor Susan 11241 Avenida del Gato Here are some highlights San Diego, CA 92126 in this issue… Fuller Slack on pages 10-13. (858) 633-7515 | [email protected] ~ The Brock Circle… ensuring the financial Treasurer ~ Up-Close Cover Story introducing the Ann Stratte health of LDEI. If you’re not already a Brock M.F.K. Fisher Award winners…Meet the Owner, My Personal Chef Circle member, now’s the perfect time to join. 100 Severn Avenue, #506 “best of the best”—the winners of LDEI’s Turn to page 14 to read a testimonial from Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 2014 M.F.K. Fisher Awards for Excellence in (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] Linda Forristal (Philadelphia and Washington Culinary Writing, selected from 110 entries Chapter Board Liaisons Chapters), sharing why she joined the Brock (more than ever). Read the expertly written Hayley Matson-Mathes Circle. And congratulations to the three newest Culinary Consultant article by Fall Quarterly Editor, CiCi members of the Brock Circle: the New York 2333 Kapiolani Blvd #3516 Williamson, on pages 4-8. Honolulu, HI 96826 Chapter; Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii), (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] ~ The Best Begins in Boston–soon! Don’t Chapter Board Liaison, incoming ThirdVice Deborah Orrill miss LDEI’s Annual Conference (October President, and outgoing editor of Member Culinary Consultant 30th through November 2nd). Our 2014 Milestones; and Lori Willis (St. Louis), LDEI 64 Vanguard Way Judy Mattera Dallas, TX 75243 Conference Co-Chairs, and First Vice President and President-Elect. (214) 343-0124 | [email protected] Joan Sweeney, and Program Chair, Louisa ~ New York Chapter throws Carol Brock a Stacy Zeigler, CMP, CPCE Kasdon, have produced, an educational, en- 90th Birthday party! In grand New York style, Director of Sales, Bold American Events joyable treasure trove, complete with plenty of 877 W. Marietta Street NW 55 Dames gathered on a lovely summer’s eve, tastes and tours of New England (see Studio K-102 in the elegant penthouse apartment of Marsha Atlanta, GA 30318-5285 the back cover). Palanci, to toast LDEI’s Founder, Carol Brock (678) 302-3232 | [email protected] ~ Your LDEI Board at Work, (see page 15). Immediate Past President Mary Ellen Griffin during our second face-to-face Owner, www.myMEGusta.com meeting in Washington in Looking forward to greeting you in Boston! 320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58 mid-July: Learn all about our Stamford, CT 06902 (203) 975 7610 fast-paced, productive, exciting, [email protected] and energizing time, authored Executive Director by LDEI Second Vice Presi- Beth Allen Greg Jewell dent Braiden Rex-Johnson, President, AEC Management Resources President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International P.O. Box 4961 on page 9. Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected]

FALL Quarterly 2014 3 Journalism Teacher Wins LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Award Grand Prize for Excellence in Culinary Writing

Who Entered the Contest? Big changes were afoot in the 2014 M.F.K. Nina Mukerjee Furstenau Fisher Awards contest. Last year, not only did Fayette, Missouri the LDEI Board approve my suggestion to Grand Prize Winner divide the entries into three categories, they Book Category Winner also decided to hold the con- Biting Through the Skin: An Indian Kitchen in America’s Heartland test every year instead of University of Iowa Press, 2013. biennially. This resulted http://ninafurstenau.com/ in the largest number Nina Mukerjee Furstenau was in the closet of a historic manor house near of entries since our Siena, Italy, when LDEI President Beth Allen reached her by phone to tell her writing awards began she had been chosen the Grand Prize in 2006. Winner of LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing. (The closet was the phone’ LDEI received 110 journalism teacher at the s home.) A University of Missouri (M entries—a 30% increase for a month with six of her undergraduate students, Uaccording), Nina was to herin T husband,uscany over the 2012 contest, Terry, who was back home in Fayette, Missouri. tripping the need to recruit Beth said, “I first told inaN she was the additional judges and to conduct several rounds Winner in the Book Category. She was SO excited. But then when I told her she was also the G of judging. One can’t ask volunteer judges to rand Prize Win- ner, she was thrilled!” Her prizes are $500 for the Book Category read and rate 100, 50, or even 30 (2,000-word) an additional $500 for being chosen as the Grand P Winner plus articles. In total, I recruited 12 excellent judges receives a trip to Boston for our 2014 M.F.K. Fisherrize Awards Winner. Banquet Nina toalso accept from all over the U.S. who are not members of her award at the Les Dames. Royal Sonesta Hotel in Cam- bridge, M Book Category: 17 entries assachusetts, on November 1, 2014. “Nina had entered two excerpts from her book, Internet Category: 41 entries so she asked me which one had won,” Beth Print Category (Magazines & said. “ Newspapers): 52 entries When I told her Biting through the Skin: Prologue, she said she thought that would be the No Dames were category win- one! Nina said that she still thinks many years ners, but two Dames, Virginia later about that hungry little boy in her story Willis (Atlanta) and Kim Ode who bit right through the banana peel when (Minnesota) finished third in she threw it to him out the bus window. He their categories. More Dames (23) truly has been the reason she is so interested entered this year than in previous in dedicating much of her journalism work years, so that’s progress. toward food, especially hunger,” Beth said. Unusually, both the grand prize “What wonderful news to receive, especially winner and the print category winner being so far from home!” said Nina. “ I’m so were from the “Show Me” state, Mis- honored. I have known and long admired Les souri, which had eight entries. The Dames d’ Escoffier for its sustainable-food fo- states with the most entries were New cus. This drew my interest, but since winning York (20) and California (19); five this award, I now know more about LDEI entered from Canada. and its emphasis on culture and food heri Photo by Anastasia Pottinger Photography - A non-winner wrote to me: “Keep tage, another high-interest area of my own. me in the loop as to when the games “But it took the suggestion of a friend, writer, and res- start again. I’ll be doing mental push- taurant critic Todd Kliman, of Washingtonian magazine, who knew about ups preparing for the gate to open on the race the LDEI contest, to nudge me to enter . I met Todd at a symposium I was help between fillies with the ‘write’ stuff. ing organize at MU, ‘Food Sense,’ and about a y - He has been a great touchstone for me and ear later, at ‘The Art of Food.’ —Micki McClellan, Pipe Creek, Texas (2012 I respect his writing very much. Second-Prize Winner) said to go for it,” Nina said. He She was also given a nudge b I hope y’all feel the same way! The deadline y her friends. “I have a great group of writer-friends: for the next contest is March 31, 2015. Laura McHugh, Jill Orr, Allison Smythe, Jen G Ann issued a challenge that each of us submit a ravely,piece to and at leastAnn oneBreidenbach. journal or CiCi Williamson, Chair contest this spring. 2014 M.F.K. Fisher Awards Since I generally drag my feet about such things,

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International ith certifi- difficult in that culture.W cation, the women could get higher I needed the group’s prices for their rugs.” Math and reading encouragement, sup- classes were planned. A playground, t, and confidence.I por complete with a camel slide, was de- e to say this group . USAID hav signed and built. “I had help has been an important and UNICEF provided funds for bricks component of writing and mortar, the Kairouan governmentI was the long narrative for me. donated the land for the center, Writing is essentially a ound. It was truly a joint , and this boots on the gr lone endeavor project.” community of women The weaving project and cooking with I stepped The author's family when they moved to Kansas in 1964: has meant the women in her neighborhood filled out of my comfort Parents Sachin and Sipra Mukerjee with Nina and her During my two brother Sandeep. Nina’s days in Tunisia. “ zone repeatedly. Love years there, I learned how to share food this group.” and food stories because of working and he y Years I was 22 and it was t Earl ina Mukerjee ” angkok, Thailand, toI ndian parents, N cooking with the wives and daughters.It changed my entire experience. Born in B first time I had really done this. grew up in Pittsburg, Kansas, and sometimes traveled to ranceher England, Scotland, and F ace Corps Years ancestral India. She studied in I found Post-Pe I went abroad to find myself and After returning from two years in the Peace-Corps, Nina in 1982. Nina said, “ Terry.” Terry Furstenau is an the love of my life, my husband founded a publishing company with her husband and began her working life as a journalist and publisher/editor of three American man whose grandparentslobal hailed Culinary from GermanyInitiative, and Sweden. Talk about the perfect G construction magazines beginning in 1987. They launched ina earned a B.J. degree in Maga- this couple fills the bill! N and published these magazines and two others untilS ince2001. then, U 1984, and they were married all of zine Journalism from M They also had a daughter, Anna,eative and nonfiction son, Nathan. pieces for nine months that same year before leaving for Africa and the she has published numerous cr Peace Corps. journals such as Painted Bride Quarterly Sandhe earned Ploughshares an M.A. as in “I realized that most of the major decisions in my life have well as magazines such as Missouri Life. In 2008, Nina I had with food at the age of Writing from MU in 2006. .K. English/Creative been governed by an experience DEI selected as the M.F esident at the Vermont Studio Center in five. The boy in the piece that L I chose to enter was a month-long r Johnson, Vermont. U Sci- Fisher winner influenced so muchI wantedof my life. to effect change ector at the M the Peace Corps in 1984 because Today she is a teacher and project dir e in a significant way,” Nina said. e Journalism program and the Journalism and touch another cultur ence and Agricultur e teaching food and wine Islam’s fourth holiest city, Her two areas of focus ar The couple was sent to Kairouan, editerranean School. USAID project located in Tunisia about 50 miles from the M writing and serving as a project director for a Sea. Nina’s husband was an agricultural extensionWID) agent,project. and for soybean innovation in Africa. “This last is important for Women-In-Development ( me because it encompasses food security, hunger, nutrition, she worked on a ea where many farm families “We lived outside the city in an ar sustainable agriculture, and food policy—completing the lived. They had come to the city to find work and there was umbrella of food topics for me from farm-to-fork and from I was helping wives and widows to get more op- hunger to taste and flavor,” stated Nina. little of that. Since the women made beauti- avor Missouri: River Hill Country portunities to generate income.” She is also the author of S ful rugs—flat woven kilims and margoums and knotted, pile Food and Wine, a book celebrating the local flavors of food carpets—to sell, Nina focused on that aspect of their lives. and wine in Missouri (Missouri Life and Acclaim Publishing, “By building a center for the women to get a rug-weaving 2013). Nina received a 2014 Notable Bookiting AwardThrough from the the Skin . certificate in the area they lived, the women could attend Kansas State Libraries Association for B without having to walk two kilometers to town, which was

“I admire M.F.K. Fisher and often use her work in my journalism classes as examples of exceptional food writing. She was definitely an inspiration for me. When I first read her writing, I was struck by how she revealed an entire way of being, a world view and culture with accessible language and beautifully told food story. Fisher’s use of small details that intensify focus hooks me every—Nina time. Mukerjee I am excited Furtenau. to win LDEI’s award in Fisher’s name.”

Fall Quarterly 2014 5 As far as what inspired Nina to write Bit- learned about the regional food history.” ing through the Skin, she answered, “I began The students wrote blogs for VoxTalk, a to see how food traditions in your home tie city student-run, online publication, and you to your family heritage, even if there are longer stories about Italian food, such as no other clues to that history outside your Parma ham, Parmesan cheese, regional front door. All families have this story to pasta, espresso, and more. one degree or another. We are all products Writing of small pockets of culture within the larger for a Living American landscape. For me, food has been Given that so much uncompensated a way to see boundaries of culture and how writing is done on the Inter- these often meet over dinner. My book net, Nina is still gave me the opportunity to consider how optimistic about cultures meet over food, how we are alike, making a living as and also how we may be different.” a writer. She said, Nina has been a professional writer for 29 “I think that there years. For five of those years, she was in- will always be a volved in writing Biting Through the Skin. “I place for good food was not accustomed to writing about myself stories. Writers with as a journalist. Even though there was no a knowledge base in great trauma in my life, somehow, those agriculture have the intimate chapters were difficult for me to edge when it comes put out into the world. Plus, I was new to to balanced work on trying to get a book published and I spent food, food policy, and Comments time waiting for replies. It may be that this sustainability. It’s dif- worked in my favor, however. It was a kind from ficult to get that level of the Judges of long digestion process for the work, as I writing unless it’s treated made significant decisions on edits as the as a profession. Some are • Magnificently work settled over time,” explained Nina. starting to recognize this written; an insightful and Will Write for Food— and I hope more will. intelligent personal take Italian Edition “Sometimes I feel that voices from the on a serious world issue.— When Beth called, Nina was taking six Midwest are not often heard in the main- Carol Sugarman, Bethesda, undergraduate women journalism students stream. And I think writing from a place Maryland from MU for a month in Italy. The group that still produces much of our food and • Elegant, dramatic writ- studied the food and wine of the Tuscan re- its story is important. But, it took a coming that invites readers into gion, spending three weeks in Florence and munity of writers to prod me a little. They a personal view of another one week at Spannocchia, an agricultural understood I needed that. I am so thankful culture. A compelling read.— foundation farm (which has very difficult to them. Ann Criswell, Houston, Internet and phone connections!). They had Beth’s follow-up email read, “Fabulous Texas. finished their three-week stay in lorenceF speaking with you today from that closet! I • Great evocation of setting, and were enjoying their last week of their must say: the phone connection was amaz- family history, public masses, journey on-the-farm near Siena. ingly clear! Looking forward to meeting and taste, smell, and texture At Spannocchia, they raise pigs, grow you…and again, our sincere congratulations! of food.—Dianne Hennessy vegetables, make cheese, and even wine. I’m delighted I was able ‘to make your day!’” King, Vienna, Virginia “We enjoyed wonderful dinners every night Replied Nina, “Thank you and the selec- • Strong description, tense made with foods produced on the farm,” tion committee again. Lovely news today narrative, and inner explora- Nina said. “One of the wonderful learning and I am most honored. Our phone con- tion of two cultures.—Don experiences the students had was simply nection was great—just goes to show you Fry, Charlottesville, Virginia gathering each night for rustic dinners all that posh surroundings are not everything. • How we relate to food– made from the farm products.” Looking forward to meeting you, CiCi, emotionally, spiritually, The study abroad,W ill Write for Food— and all the Dames in Boston! I can’t wait to even politically - as well as Italian Edition, is meant for undergradu- learn more about your organization and the physically – is perfectly cap- ate students at the University of Missouri work you do.” tured here. Well done.—Jan School of Journalism and Science and Norris, West Palm Beach, Agricultural Journalism program interested Florida in regional food stories. It was new this • Candid, brilliantly written year. account of both the joy “We studied the food and wine of the and the heartache that comes Tuscan region. It was lovely to visit the of growing up Indian in ‘biologic,’ carbon-free winery in Mon- the American Midwest.— tepulciano, and a family that operates Richard Swearinger, Des a three-generation farm that produces Moines, Iowa Parmesan cheese, as well as a family • The writing is poetic and that makes Parma hams. In Siena, we novel-esque. The writer learned about Cinta Senese heritage- has the ability to touch the breed hogs, we tasted and learned about the farm’s produce and wine, reader.—Madge Baird, we made pasta from scratch, and we Layton, Utah

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Farmer’s Daughter Wins Internet Category By CiCi Williamson the top 10. I’ve read a lot of Carol Penn-Romine M.F.K. Fisher’s Burbank, California writings; my TEGORY WINNER INTERNET CA introduction was ophy” “My Fishing Tr The Gastronomical Me. I can’t say www.hungrypassport.com/ that I’ve read the entire canon, but I’ve savored a lot of it. And that’s I’m excited…I’m so glad you called. “Fantastic…that’s great! what I love about her writing—I’m I entered this contest four years ago and didn’t win but Winning is a nice shot in the not just reading it for information. decided to enter again this year. DEI President I’m savoring it. arm!” Carol Penn-Romine said excitedly to L “She had an effect on my writing. Beth Allen, who had called to share the good news. I love the way she finds gold in Carol was 10 years old when she learned to drive a tractor Tennessee. She also the minutia. The topics don’t have on the family farm outside of Kenton, to be grand; they just have to be helped with the crops, livestock, and kitchen garden. But at noticed. Her writing has taught an even younger age, Carol was bitten by the writing bug. me to pay more attention to the I was old enough to stitch words “I have been writing since nooks and crannies, because those together,” she said. are the places where the gold can be found. I wrote stories, illustrating them with pictures scissored ecording of her reading “ I stapled “I found an online site that had the r from magazines and taping them into books I’ve ever heard her beautiful ere reading Hardy Boys one of her essays—the only time together. While my friends w It was absolutely lovely, crystalline, and enchanting. ossed in National Geographic voice. and Nancy Drew, I was engr It sounded like music. It’s a real shame she didn’t do audio and studying maps. Food, travel, and writing framed my I realize they’d be my lifelong recordings of more of her writing.” growing-up years. Little did http://www.prx.org/pieces/39574-julia-child-and-m-f-k-fisher passions. But they are.” y and Writing About Carol’s Winning Entr Carol has spent the past 25 years as a journalist and freelance The inspiration for Carol’s winning entry? “A combination writer, concentrating on food writing for the last 10 years. I made about a year and a half ago She’s also a chef, teacher, and culinary-tour guide. “Blending of the fishing expedition Tennessee with bringing back the trophy from a trip home to food and travel and being able to share it all on the page, in . I hadn’t been fishing sinceI was a kid, and it the kitchen, and on the road gives me enormous pleasure,” earlier that year I started think- Carol confided. brought back the thrill of that tug on the line. English from Bethel Capping her schooling with a B.A. in ing about the business of fishing, and of eating or not eating I’d caught—how different those experiences were and University in Tennessee, she followed that with an M.A. in the fish State in Kentucky. Speech Communications from Murray the notion of what fishing was all about, based on my very limited experiences as a child.” ’s Then she and her husband moved to California vies.where Andy Well there Romine is a visual-effects artist for animated mo Writing the piece spanned about two weeks. “ I got the writing and then there’s polishing,” said Carol. “ “After a number of years working as a freelance writer/editor- I refined it, put it away; I trained at the International Tour Manage ideas down pretty quickly, but and tour guide ( I knew if ment Institute), I decided to shift my focus to food. remembered a few more things and added those…polished I needed to take a class. some more…that sort of thing. Writing an essay and writ- I seriously wanted to write about food, e two different enterprises—they To bolster my culinary knowledge, which primarily consisted of ing an information piece ar erything, I attended that Southern penchant for deep-frying ev require different creative muscles,” she explained. the California School of Culinary Arts and earned a Le Cordon “Food writers face new challenges, what with the volume I of uncompensated writing that’s out there,” Carol said. “But Bleu degree. That was my beginning in food writing.I conduct. Now write about food and make it the focus of the tours the positive side is that there are so many more opportunities eceived the Apicius Scholarship from the for us to get our work out there now. Not so long ago we had In 2010, Carol r eenbrier, Symposium for Professional Food Writers at the Gr only a finite number of outlets, of newspaper food sectionsInter- West Writers’ Annual and she won second place in the South and magazines devoted to food. Now we have limitless ecord Her work has appeared in Best net opportunities. We can even self-publish our books, r International Writing Contest. Internet videos. our own podcasts, and create our own Food Writing 2013, Leite’sCulinaria, Gastronomica, Los Angeles , if it’s apparent that you Times, The New York Times, Cornbread Nation IV: The Best of “While the competition is tougher Southern Food Writing, Farmhouse Magazine, and the Chris- know what you’re talking about and you can writeI think about you’re it in She is a past editor of Edible Los Angeles a way that makes people seek out your words, tian Science Monitor. I still believe that cream will and a contributor to Edible: A Celebration of Local Foods and going to make it as a food writer. Edible Communities. She rise to the top.” to a number of magazines within Historians of I interviewed Carol for this also edits the “Food Journal” of the Culinary Oh, and the prize money? As She’s Southern California. article, she was in the middle of a kitchen renovation. itings going to put her $500 prize into her new kitchen. M.F.K. Fisher’s Wr To read Carol’s winning entry, go to: “Leite’sCulinaria” from Toni Allegra,” said Carol. She “I knew about LDEI http://leitesculinaria.com/87215/writings-fishing-trophy.html and Irena Chalmers told me about the M.F.K. Fisher Award I made it into Contest. I entered in 2010 and you told me

Fall Quarterly 2014 7 x” Up an Award University of Texas Grad “Lo By CiCi Williamson print issue.” Stacy Before long, those two hats multiplied, and esponsible for concep- became the managing editor r Stacy Schultz tualizing, planning, managing and editing all editorial Clayton, Missouri NNER content. Although she still contributes articles to Sauce, PRINT CATEGORY WI she is now a community manager at Nestle Purina. “Lox of Love” from Sauce Magazine I am “I’m happiest when I’m being creative and when oject I’ve worked hard on finally come I really won? That’s great… able to see a pr “Oh my gosh. Writing constantly pushes me—to learn Stacy Schultz told LDEI to fruition. I’m so excited!” more, to read more, to make each story better than Beth Allen President . Beth had not con- the one before it. No matter how much or how often nected with Stacy on her first call, but a ded. “Your you do it, writing is never easy. And while this fact can call-back number was recor I make the days long and the work daunting, it gives me number just appeared on my voicemail. ” said Stacy. I recognized great pride in what I do, used to live in New York so I had no idea who this “My favorite food stories are about personal experi- the area code, but ences and recipes that are passed down from genera- call was coming from. Thank you, thank tant, and I struggled to SO much!” tions. Holidays are so impor you, thank you make an impact on my family’s holiday foods that are Before Stacy entered the contest, she I want to make my own Dames already so well established. ’t know anything about Les I have didn traditions and pass down my recipes when EscoffierI nternational, but she knows Stacy. d’ kids—one of these days,” said e now. She told Beth, “This is the mor Now in her early 30’s, Stacy has already won another e entered this contest, though others Society of Magazine first timeI hav I am so writing award from the American from Sauce magazine have entered before. Editors (ASME). For her M.F.K. Fisher Award-win- excited. My executive editor, Ligaya Figueras, heard Stacy first did a rough draft ning piece, “Lox of Love,” It was a longer about the contest from Beth Huch, who was a mem- ent back to several times. “ I really appreciate your that she w I had to stop several ber of the St. Louis Chapter. process for this article because ences in the recipes for calling to tell me. Thank you!” St. times as I learned the differ Stacy is a writer and editor currently living in I’ve making lox. I made it over several months and, once ew up. “Since the age of 12, ecipe, I served it to family and Louis, where she gr I am lucky I had the winning r Stacy. been fascinated with the written word, and friends to make sure it tasted right,” related ful powers to work every Internet on writing enough to put its wonder Regarding the effect of the With a B.J. (Bachelor’s degree in journal- s difficult to find a full-time day,” she said. careers, Stacy believes, “It’ University of Texas tucked tightly into In one way, the ism) from the job right now, but it’s a two-way street. tacy moved to New York City with little her suitcase, S Internet gives us a great opportunity as writers. Now more than one-month’s rent in her pocket, a fearStacy of we can expand and make our mark in our own way— subways, and one very big dream. Fortunately, It gives power to the writer in a way ent ran out. brand ourselves. got a job before her r Financial we’ve never had before, like the ability to be part of a “Before long, I became a staff writer at I hadn’t a lick of experience in the community with our sources. Planning magazine. owever, you have to be careful about writing posted I did what any good reporter “H What financial industry, so I could, read on the Internet. Anyone can write anything. would do: spoke with as many people as makes journalism what it has always been is its code of more books than I care to remember, and asked ques- t about blogs is that they don’t Within a year, my hard work ethics. The difficult par tions—lots of questions. always have that moral code. The future is going to be I was promoted to senior editor and, six paid off when different, but the best writers will not only realize the months later, deputy editor. e opportunity they have but also realize the importance “Feeling that I was destined to write about mor Stacy concluded. of a credible source,” s favorite stories than mutual funds and long-term Stacy’ I sought a position to write are long, in- care insurance, I that would better suit my passions. depth profiles, though always loved to cook and loved food. she loves a great story and a recipe that people Before long, a beautiful culinaryauce magazine in St. Louis called S relate to. That certainly is the case with her hired me as senior editor. Once w again, I immersed myself in a ne winning story, “Lox of To read it, go to: world, meeting talented people and Love.” tasting some truly wonderful food in www.saucemagazine. the process. I was hired to edit and com/blog/?author=12# manage all of Sauce’s online content and write several pieces for each 8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International LDEI Board Meets

in Washington Cathy Cochran-Lews, Lori Willis, Beth Allen, Greg Jewell, and Hayley Matson-Mathes. By Braiden Rex-Johnson (Seattle), LDEI Second VP Shortly after the Fourth of July, your LDEI Board of Di- rectors descended on our nation’s capital for its second face- to-face meeting of the year. Led by LDEI President Beth Allen, the board’s first order of business on Friday after- Maria Gomez and Greg Jewell. noon, July 11, was a review of progress of the 2014 goals, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Brent Frei, and Lori Willis. as outlined during its January board meeting in Miami. Member Benefits that have come to fruition include the completion of two well-attended webinars, refreshing of graphics in the Quarterly, and addition of one new Affinity Partner. Enhancements to the 2014 Annual Conference in Boston include four educational tracks and addition of the Guidebook App for easy networking among attendees and posting to social-media outlets. Looking forward, we will be developing a plan for international chapters to enhance their benefits for being a part of LDEI. Growth: The board has increased its campaign to develop new chapters (with one new chapter expected in 2014), LDEI 2014 Board: Hayley Matson-Mathes, Cathy Cochran-Lews, Maria focused on member retention, created Guidelines for Gomez, Stacy Ziegler, Beth Allen, Ann Stratte, Mary Ellen Griffin, Braiden Chapters from LDEI, and has held its first-ever All-Chapter Rex-Johnson, Deb Orrill, Lori Willis. Presidents Call, with another planned for September. Connectivity and Communications are on the up and Annual Conference to be held in Washington. up, with formation of a Social-Media Task Force and ap- Board members continued to brainstorm with special guests CiCi pointment of a Social-Media Administrator to post LDEI, and LDEI Director of Development, Brent Frei, over dinner at member, and chapter news to Facebook and Twitter. EDGAR Bar & Kitchen in the Mayflower Renaissance Washington, Podcasts and webinars have been uploaded on the LDEI D.C. Hotel, the board’s “home-away-from-home” during this visit. website, and there has been an expansion of external and After continental breakfast on Saturday morning, Treasurer Ann internal public relations. Stratte reviewed the financial statements, then Brent joined us for an To increase connectivity and communications from the update of the current and potential conference partners. LDEI Board to individual chapters, many board members During a working lunch, the three Chapter Board Liaisons (CBLs)— have made special visits (at their own expense) to chapter Stacy Zeigler, Hayley Matson-Mathes, and Deb Orrill—discussed meetings around the country. A first-ever LDEI Annual plans for the upcoming Chapter Leadership Forum in Boston. The Report was sent out with the LDEI Directory in January, board also reviewed the Affinity and Dame-to-Dame programs and communicating to all that LDEI operates as a business. the 2014 CharityBuzz fundraiser, as well as potential hotels for the Monthly President’s Letters and as-needed e-blasts also help 2016 Annual Conference in Washington. to keep members informed and up-to-date with “what’s Then it was off forD “ inner~Wine~Conversation”at the Westend happening” in our organization. Bistro, an award-winning, casual-American eatery at The Ritz-Carlton, To ensure Financial Stability, your 2014 Board has cre- Washington. Waiting to greet us were Washington Chapter President ated a Brock Circle Marketing Plan and forecasts increased Drew Faulkner; Annie Boutin-King, Ritz-Carlton’s director of social profits from this year’s CharityBuzz Auction. This year, catering; Ann Stratte; and seven D.C. Dames, including Theresa chapters will earn 20 percent of the full purchase price of Morrison, Jill Collins, Robyn Webb, Karen Vartan, Linda Forristal, their auction lots, up from 10 percent in 2013. Vickie Reh, and Winnie Steinberg. To enhance Partnerships, we have implemented Quar- Annie and her team wowed us with a three-course menu and perfectly terly articles supporting partner milestones and connected paired wines. Dinner included such seasonal sensations as Spring Pea Milestone Partner Celebrations with Dames attending and Leek Soup and Blueberry-Violet Sorbet; classic French-inspired Conference. dishes including Seared Skate Wing and Pan-Roasted Pekin Duck After reviewing 2014 goals, the rest of the afternoon was Breast; and the Southern comfort-food favorite, Shrimp and Grits. spent on an energizing conference call with the Boston The group broke into applause when it was announced that CBL Conference Committee—Joan Sweeney, Judy Mattera, and Hayley Matson-Mathes was the newest member of the Brock Circle. Louisa Kasdon—plus Boston Chapter President Lee Napoli. As Beth Allen said in a thank-you email, “Our sincere, heartfelt thanks CiCi Williamson joined the meeting in person to give us to the D.C. Dames for greeting each of us on the LDEI Board to Wash- an update on the M.F.K. Fisher Awards contest, showing ington. The chance to get to know many of the Washington Dames off the impressively thick notebook she kept in order to co- face-to-face, enjoy great conversation, and share a wonderful meal at The ordinate the record number of contest entries received this Ritz-Carlton were all very special indeed. A great celebratory time and year—more than 100! Then CiCi and Ann Stratte talked the perfect ending to our trip! We are all looking forward to returning to about some possible programming ideas for the 2016 LDEI your city for a fabulous LDEI Conference in 2016.”

Fall Quarterly 2014 9 Edible LONDON —Experiencing Its Tastes & Treasures Susan Slack and Dottie Koteski By Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston) When judged against other great world cities, London’s cuisine is in the winner’s circle. After all, British fare descends from a well-respected lineage influenced by the Franco-Normans. Some say it lost its way in the Victorian era, but London today is being called the new culinary capital of Europe. It is East India Tea Company. A Thursday-morning tea-tasting a multicultural city and the cuisine has a strong ethnic flare. Restaurant chefs was arranged at this elegant company in Mayfair. Tea Master Lalith and home cooks are cooking up fresh ideas, emphasizing seasonal, organic, and Lenadora conducted tastings of exquisite black, green, and white teas, locally sourced foods. and explained how to brew a proper cup. The “icing on the cake” was To savor the flavors of this exciting city, LDEI’S London Chapter a tasting of truffles and sweet/savory artisan biscuits (cookies), some invited Dames from the U.S. and Canada to attend Edible London— produced from 400-year-old company recipes. a “four-day extravaganza.” Held May 15-18, 36 Dames and guests Melia White House Hotel. A welcome reception at the Melia rendezvoused with 17 London Dames for a behind-the-scenes look at was the official kickoff for Edible London. The LondonD ames were the city’s thriving food-and-wine scene. immediately identified by their stylish blue pashmina scarves. Every- Organizer Sue Carter chaired the symposium, saying, “This would be one mingled, appreciating conversations that weren’t limited to email a great opportunity to share our city with our North American sisters, or 140 characters. Valentina Harris reflected, “I felt it was really im- placing the London Chapter firmly on the map within LDEI.” portant to bring the U.K. Dames face to face with Dames from across Attendees checking into the Melia White House Hotel near Regent’s the pond to share experiences and traditions linked to gastronomy and Park in Central London were presented with a Harvey Nichols tote food and to form important links and friendships.” bag filled with British artisan foods, cookbooks, and other goodies. Valentina Harris, vivacious president of LDEI London, recounts the vetting process for selecting the most suitable accommodations. “Dur- L-R: Shelby Schafer, London Dame Clare Marriage, Marsha Palanci, and Renie Steves. Photo: S Slack. L-R: London Dame Julia Platt Leonard, Suzanne ing each hotel visit, I bounced on the beds, checked the bathroom Henniger, and London LDEI President Valentina Harris. Photo: S Slack. London plumbing, and examined the thickness of the toilet paper–all with my Dames L-R: Chantal Coady, Julia Platt Leonard, Tonia Buxton, Clare Marriage, clothes on!” Melanie Reeve, Caroline Anne Bennett, Valentina Harris, Pervin Todiwala, Bonnie Brulee, Sue Carter (hidden) and Sarah Thompson. Photo: R Steves. Special thanks to Renie Steves, Chrissie Walker, Hayley Matson-Mathes and L-R: London Dames Sarah Thompson, Sejal Sukhadwala, Pervin Todiwala, Gina Mike Mathes, and Toria and Bill Emas for photo assistance. Edible London McAdam, and Victa Consing Magcase. Photo: S Slack. L-R: Edible London Chair was a photographer’s dream. Check the LDEI website for additional photos and Sue Carter and London Membership Chair Chrissie Walker. Photo: C Walker. a full-text version of this article.—Susan Slack L-R: Patty Ravenscroft (wearing yellow) and Rachel Mueller. Photo: C Walker.

“Smithfield Market was a high- “It was a culinary “Chocolate-and- “Being a chef and Memories of light. After Peter Twist told the adventure of a cheese canapés. having the incredible Edible London meat cutters we were a group lifetime, with London . .certainly one opportunity to forage Compiled by of top restaurateurs and chefs Dames providing a reason to visit on Dover Farm and Dottie Koteski from the U.S., they opened up, rich insight into the London again learn about the edible (Philadelphia) showed us their prize cuts, and food, culture, and very soon!”— plants native to the told stories about each other history.”—Hayley Kristen LaCount area was fabulous!”— and the market.”—Barbara Matson-Mathes (Boston) Arlene Mead Cook (Houston) (Hawaii) (Monterey Bay)

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Harvey Nichols. The group boarded an iconic, red, Routemaster double-decker bus for a trip to Harvey Nichols Fifth Floor in exclusive Knights- bridge. The flagship luxury-lifestyles store holds a fine-dining restaurant, café, bar, luxury food market, wine shop, and outside terrace on the fifth floor.W e were greeted with a glass of pale-gold, sparkling Nyetimber 2009 Classic Cuvée. Representatives from Nyetimber, Edinburgh Gin, Aqua Riva Tequila (Mexico), The neO Whisky, Sipsmith Independent Spirits, and Quinta de la Rosa (Portugal) poured wine and cocktails in the beautiful open space. Fifth Floor Senior Head Chef Chris Bower presented mouth- watering canapés and foods arranged in tiny bowls. Among the specialty foods, you could even purchase a chocolate replica of yourself after briefly standing in a 3-D scanning booth. It was a brilliantly British evening! Smithfield Market. On Friday, a group of early risers visited Smithfield (officially, London Central Markets), the U.K.’s largest wholesale meat market—in existence since the 12th century. Sue Carter and Jacqui Pickles shep- herded the group while former Metropolitan Police Officer and City Guide Peter Twist led everyone on an entertaining tour through the maze of meat cutters, sellers, and buyers. Breakfast at the Fox & Anchor pub included spicy bloody Marys, bacon butty sandwiches, hot porridge, or The Full Monty.

Foraging is a sensory journey. Photo: R Steves. The foragers savored an early-morning snack of Cornish Pasties at a rest stop. Photo: R Steves. Valentina Harris and Margaret Happel Perry examine a colorful foraged specimen. Photo: S Slack. Toria Emas and Marsha Palanci “suit up” for the group’s Doves Farm mill tour. Clare Marriage of Doves Farm and Valentina Harris lead the way for a tea-tasting with foraged plants and a Doves Farm mill tour. Photo: B Emas. The Dames pause to admire the Marriage's curly-haired Mangalitsa pigs. Photo: S Slack.

The Modern Pantry. At this restaurant in the fashion- able, food-friendly area called Clerkenwell, Caravan coffee roaster gave a coffee “cupping” demonstration and Melanie Reeve, wine expert at London’s Vinopolis, presented a tasting of English sparkling wines. Chef-proprietor, Anna Hansen, spoke about her culinary journey and working with Chef Peter Gordon, the “godfather of fusion cuisine.” Luncheon included several of Anna’s signature dishes characterized as nose-to-tail eating and global fusion. Doves Farm. In a simultaneous morning tour, 30 attendees traveled west of London to the Wiltshire/Berkshire border for a foraging trip and to visit the organic mill, Doves Farm Foods, owned by Clare Marriage and husband, Michael. Clare, Michael, and Valentina led the foragers through the sunny, pastoral countryside–with sheep, frolicking lambs, and curly-haired Mangalitsa pigs–searching for flowering herbs, nettles, elderflowers, and wild-blackberry leaves. Clockwise: L-R: London Dame Tonia Buxton, Dorothee Rubin, Grande Dame Carol At Doves Farm we toured the state-of-the-art production Brock, and Cleo Roccas of Aqua Riva Tequila. Photo: S Slack. Harvey Nichols’ fabu- mill. The company transforms ancient grains into cereals, bis- lous Fifth Floor. The company’s Chief Executive Officer Stacey Cartwright. Photo: S cuits, 21 different flours, and a wide variety of award-winning Slack. London Dame Sarah Thompson and Becky Satterfield. Photo: C Walker. The Smithfield Market tour group. Photo: M Mathes. Crab and Virgin Mary Cocktails and gluten-free products. Clare educated the group on the ancient Scotch Eggs with Tarragon Mayonnaise at Harvey Nichols. Photo: R Steves. L-R: Judy grains and brewed hot-nettle and wild-blackberry-leaf teas Rusignuolo, Teresa Farney, Patti Ravenscroft, Drew Faulkner (all Washington). Photo: from materials foraged. Valentina served a refreshing summer S Slack. Off to Harvey Nichols. Photo: R Steves. beverage made with fragrant elderflowers.

“From traditional Cornish “The walk to Rococo “A highlight for me was “Pervin Todiwala’s Café “The memory I pasties, handcrafted Gins, Chocolates for the chocolate- high tea at The Savoy Spice Namasté had to be still savor was the fabulous organic farmers’ and-cheese pairing enabled and meeting the Execu- the best Indian food I’ve exquisite meal markets, gourmet chocolates, us to see the lovely village of tive Chef, James Pare, ever tasted. London needs at The Harrow and crisp, dry wines to inter- Marylebone with its quaint who, coincidentally, was to know I shall return as at Little Bedwyn national cuisine, the British shops and well-populated from Vancouver and soon as I can. It was one owned by Roger food scene has plenty to tan- outdoor cafes with flowers knew a lot of people I of the best trips of my and Sue Jones.” talize the palate!”—Nichole cascading from the balco- knew.”—Elly Driessen life.”—Becky Satterfield —Dottie Koteski Bendele (San Antonio) nies.”—Michelle LaCount (British Columbia). (Birmingham). (Philadelphia) (Boston) Fall Quarterly 2014 11 ton in a tomato-spice sauce, crowned with cumin-flavored mashed potatoes. This dish was the main course of a menu prepared by Chef Cyrus for Her Majesty The ueen’sQ Diamond Jubilee luncheon in 2012. Each guest received a favor bag that included Chef Cyrus’ splendid chutney. Billingsgate. On Saturday, early risers visited Billings- gate, the U.K.’s largest inland fish market, anchored at its current location at Canary Wharf since 1982. The tour was led by Danish-born restaurateur Chef Silla Bjerrum, co- The pre-dessert “boiled egg” with shortbread “soldier.” Sue Jones of The Harrow. Photo: R Steves. Londoners Chantal Coady with Clare and Michael Marriage. Photo: S founder of Feng Sushi restaurant chain, and C.J. Jackson, a Slack. Carol Brock and renowned U.K. Chef Roger Jones. Photo: S Slack. Cordon Bleu-trained chef, cookbook author, and director of Billingsgate Seafood Training School. Silla gave a sushi demonstration to the tour participants and served them The Harrow at Little Bedwyn. Lunch was quite a memorable experi- sushi and green tea. ence for the foragers who visited The Harrow at Little Bedwyn in the Wilt- Borough Market. Led by Sue Haddleton, the merged shire countryside. Winner of numerous Michelin Stars, it is one of the most group of early-and late-rising Dames toured Borough Mar- highly acclaimed restaurants outside London. Award-winning Chef Roger ket in Central London, one of London’s largest wholesale/ Jones has an excellent pedigree that includes working for Her Majesty The retail food markets, dating back to the 13th century. The Queen on State Banquets and Margaret Thatcher at 10 Downing Street. sensory kaleidoscope of colors, sounds, aromas, and flavors A garden reception and lunch included several impeccable courses with wines came from charcuterie, baked goods, ethnic foods, seafood, perfectly matched by Roger and his business partner/wife Sue. Their world- exotic spices, meat, game, cheese shops, cafés, street stalls, class wine list, strong on Australian wines, has garnered numerous awards. It’s and bars within the market’s confines. Lunch was from the impossible to mention each course, but every bite was remarkable. Elly Dries- array of tantalizing foods. sen (British Columbia) reminisces, “Everyone will remember the whimsical pre-dessert. It was mango passion fruit custard topped with Italian meringue and served in a white egg cup with a crispy cookie ‘soldier’.” (A “soldier” is a thin toast strip for dipping into a soft-boiled egg.)

Billingsgate Market. Photo: M Mathes. Olive Cheese sticks. Photo: C Walker. Borough Market umbrellas. Photo: C Walker. L-R: Patricia Gelles, Valentina Harris, Silla Bjerrum, Mary Ellen Griffin, Barbara Cook, Hayley Matson-Mathes, and Beth Pav. Photo: M Mathes. Marylebone Village. Leonard Carter, Sue’s husband, shared entertaining stories of historic London’s nooks and crannies during the afternoon bus trip to Marylebone Village, a charming area in Westminster with high-quality Blackdown Artisan Gin and London Dame Sarah Thompson of Blackdown Artisan Spirits. boutiques and restaurants. We enjoyed a talk and sausage- Photos: R Steves. Celebrity Chef Cyrus Todiwala and Honorary Dame Pervin Todiwala, roll tasting at The Ginger Pig, an award-winning butcher owners/proprietors of Café Spice Namasté. Michael Mathes, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Matt shop, and a demonstration of the iconic AGA kitchen stove Rinn, and Deborah Knight. L-R: Becky Satterfield, Arlene Mead, and Suzanne Henniger. at the cook shop Divertimenti. A pioneer of fine chocolates Photos: S Slack. L-R: Michelle Lacount and Kristen Lacount. Photo: R Steves. Bill Emas, in the U.K., Chantal Coady, and Manager Sam Smallman Nicole Loukopoulou, and Toria Emas at Café Spice. Nichole Bender. Photos: C Walker. of Rococo Chocolates, teamed with Patricia Michelson of Café Spice Namasté. Friday evening was spent at the award-winning the renowned La Fromagerie for an extraordinary session Café Spice Namasté in historic Whitechapel. We began with an English Gin on chocolate-and-cheese pairing. For example, Blu 61, tasting by Sarah Thompson. Sarah and husband Nathan own Blackdown Arti- Veneto, Italy, is a fruity blue cheese that pairs beautifully san Spirits, a Sussex winery-distillery. A key ingredient in their Sussex Dry Gin is with an Academy of Chocolate 2014 Silver Award-winning silver birch sap and it takes 100 gallons of sap to make one gallon of birch syrup. Organic Milk Chocolate Bar with Salted Caramelised Al- Dinner was presented by Chef/Owner Cyrus Todiwala OBE and his busi- monds and Rosemary. The last stop was La Cucina Caldesi ness partner/wife Pervin Todiwala. Each dish was redolent with fragrant Italian Cookery School, where noted British cookbook spices that tantalized the taste buds. An outstanding Anglo-Indian version author Sybil Kapoor gave a cooking demonstration and of Country Captain featured bowls of meltingly tender, slow-roasted mut- lecture on flavor.

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Tangerine Dream Café. Sunday was the final day of an incredible culinary adventure. Breakfast was at this café on the grounds of the Chelsea Physic Garden, founded in 1673. Its goal is to conserve over 5,000 species of plants. We dined alfresco on specialties like kedgeree—a delicate, spiced Anglo-In- Chantal Cody visits her cocoa tree dian rice dish with lightly smoked fish at the Chelsea Physic Garden. and a poached egg. Dessert was warm Photo: S Slack. orange polenta tart.

London Dame Patricia Michelson and Toria Emas. Photo: B Emas. Cheeses displayed in the walk-in cheese room at La Fromagerie. Photo: S Slack. Chantal Coady and Sam Smallman present a class on the magical pairing of chocolate and cheese. Photo: T Emas. Chocolate-and-cheese pairing. Photo: R Steves. Clarke’s Restaurant. A gala dinner at this local legend eatery took place Saturday evening. Located in Notting Hill in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, Chef Sally Clarke, one of the first female chefs to open a London restaurant, started the business in 1983. Grande Dame Alice Waters of Chez Panisse became her friend and mentor when Sally cooked for Michael McCarty in California. The fresh, seasonal ingredients featured at the dinner reflected the best of the U.K.: pan-roasted Scottish halibut fillet, oastedr rump of Sussex lamb, Berkswell Sheep’s Milk Cheese, Norfolk County asparagus, Jubilee Straw- berries, and several outstanding wines. The Savoy Kitchen Tour: Back row, L-R: Pastry Chef Craig Soeberg, Teresa Farney, Valentina Harris, Executive Chef James Pare, Elly Driessen, Dottie Koteski, (Jerry Farney in back). Middle Row, L-R: Barbara Cook, Nancy Knight, Carol Brock, Victa Consing Magcase, Sejal Sukhadwala, and Sharon Van Meter. Front row kneeling, L-R: Deborah Knight and Gina McAdam. Elegant floral-inspired pastries grace the tea table. Sharon Van Meter, Dottie Koteski and Barbara Cook arrive for tea. Elly Driessen looks stylish in her fascinator hat. Photos: S Slack. The Savoy Hotel. Several Dames went to afternoon tea at The Savoy Hotel––London’s grandest of Dames hotel in Westminster. Executive Chef James Pare led a fascinating tour through the hotel kitchens. He follows in the footsteps of the great Auguste Escoffier, who took over the kitchens when the hotel opened. James pays homage by incorporating many of Escoffier’s signature dishes back into the menu. Our servers filled Royal Doulton bone-china teacups with The Savoy Blend. Tea sandwiches and scones with lemon curd, clotted cream, and strawberry jam preceded floral-inspired tea pastries honoring the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) Chelsea Flower Show opening. Leaving London. During these four memorable days, we grazed an amazing and adventuresome trail through Edible London—and we’re hungry for more! Two Dames say it all. ~“What an incredible, edible experience for all! What an impressive chapter to undertake this project during its formative years!”—Toria Emas (Chicago) ~“All the votes are in. Edible London was a great success! It had to happen if Les Dames was to truly become Les Dames International with chapters worldwide. And it had to be outstanding. It was!”—Grande Dame Carol Brock. Special thanks to the London organizing committee: Sue Carter, Valentina Harris, Jacqui Pickles, Gina McAdam, and Chrissie Walker. We appreciate all the London Dames and spouses who wel- Clockwise from top left: Teresa and Jerry Farney chat with Mary Ellen comed us and hosted numerous events. LDEI Past President Mary Ellen Griffin at Clarke’s. Photo: C Walker. Honorary London Dame/Executive Griffin (New York) concluded, “Edible London was truly an experience Chef Sally Clarke with Valentina Harris. Photo: S Slack. London Chapter First Vice President Jacqui Pickles. Leonard and Sue Carter. London to remember, and we all know how much thought and work it takes to Dame Kristine Kelly and Beth Pav. Marsha Palanci with Ashley and David put together an event of this magnitude.” James. Photos: C Walker. Clarke’s Roasted Sussex Lamb with Honey Orange Glaze. Photo: S Slack.

Fall Quarterly 2014 13 cle Cir ck o r

World’s First Printed Cookbook Why Join the Added to Fales Library By Margaret Happel Perry (New York) L Brock Circle? The last of the money chapters donated for the Brock Collection has now been invested in a historic cookbook from the year 1475. LDEI’s latest gift to NYU’s Fales Library, as part of Les Dames D d’Escoffier/Carol Brock New Acquisitions Program, By Braiden Rex-Johnson Judy’s Catering, made eye contact with is Bartolomeo Platina’s De voluptate et valetudine (Seattle) their board members present. The two (On honorable pleasure and health). women counted enough “yes” smiles “This historic book was the world’s first printed E The Brock Circle currently comprises to ensure St. Louis could be among the cookbook, and the recently procured copy dates 26 individual memberships, one cor- first five chapters to accept Alice’s chal- from 1530,” I porate member, and 11 chapters. Each lenge. Knowing they had the support according to of these 38 Brock Circle members has of their board, Judy and Ces pledged Rozanne Gold, special reasons for joining this unique to make a personal donation for the creator of the ini- group within LDEI. Here are two of first $1,000.” tiative and chair their stories. Lori said that the St. Louis Board had of the Fales Li- A Dame’s Story talked about joining the Brock Circle brary Committee Linda Joyce Forristal, a dual mem- before. But, as a relatively new chapter since its inception ber of the Philadelphia and Washing- of 45 women, they were a bit intimi- seven years ago. ton Chapters, joined the Brock Circle dated by the pledge of $10,000 over “This rare volume in the fall of 2013. “My sister (four 10 years. Alice helped them see the is an important years younger) commitment of membership for what and meaningful and my mom it really is—$1,000, one year at a time. addition to the (85) both passed The success of recent fundraisers treasure trove of away last year; also helped the St. Louis Board feel cookbooks the so- my dad, two ciety has funded.” Pope Sixtus IV Appoints Platina comfortable that it could contribute Prefect of the Vatican Library, years earlier. So, to the Circle to help fund projects and Marvin Taylor, fresco by Melozzo da Forlì, c. 1477 I decided that activities in keeping with the mission Director of Fales (Vatican Museums) supporting the and vision of LDEI. Special Collec- Dames is some- “Alice helped add velocity to our tions, added, thing I wanted to do before I died, not decision, and that’s key to building “Platina’s works are some of the earliest to discuss in my will. this new fund,” Lori says. “It was also the healthful qualities of food stuffs; that is, the “So, when the Brock Circle opportu- incredibly generous of Judy and Ces beginning of our understanding of nutrition and nity came up, I wanted to do it to pay the first installment, kicking the relationship between eating and health. And immediately, even though it is a big off our commitment and setting great Platina was also the first librarian to the Vatican.” commitment. Finally, I decided I examples for all of us. The cookbook joined other significant purchases didn't want to hesitate any longer.” “As more chapters and members sign LDEI has made over the years, among which are A Chapter’s Story on, we increase our impact on our a first edition of Brillat-Savarin and a 1541 copy The St. Louis Chapter joined the world exponentially. Like Judy, I am of Apicius—a collection of recipes from the late Brock Circle at last year’s annual a firm believer that the more we put Roman Empire thought to be the first “in usage” conference in Austin, thanks to a into our organization, the more we kitchen cookbook. Rozanne noted, “As our program matching grant from Alice Gautsch get out of it.” ends at the end of 2014, this is the final contribu- Foreman, a Seattle Dame, former In 2013, Brock Circle funds were tion LDEI will make to the Brock Collection. Our LDEI Board member, and longtime used to create the LDEI Annual Con- committee’s very last recommendation is that the generous LDEI supporter. LDEI First ference video, Les Dames d’Escoffier: occasion be marked by a celebration and a scholarly VP and St. Louis Chapter Past Presi- Past, Present, and Future, which can be appreciation of the contribution LDEI has made to dent, Lori Willis, explains how the viewed on the LDEI website homep- a world-renowned cookbook collection.” St. Louis Dames decided to join. age at www.ldei.org. “At the Council of Delegates meeting If you would like to spotlight your in Austin, St. Louis Chapter President chapter's commitment or your personal Judy Bellos listened intently to Dame reasons for joining the Brock Circle, Platina’s Quick Foreman’s generous offer to pay the please email your thoughts to Quarterly Carrot Recipe second $1,000 installment for the first Editors Susan Slack and CiCi Wil- five chapters that joined the Brock liamson. What they don’t use in the “Cariota - Roast carrots in the coals, then peel Circle,” Lori says. magazine may be posted on the website them, cleaning off the ashes, and cut them “By the end of Alice’s short speech, in the form of a comment or quote. up. Put in a dish with oil, vinegar, and a bit of Judy and Chapter Vice President, Cec- Thank you for your comments and for wine; scatter a few mild herbs on the top.— ily (Ces) Hoffius, co-owners of Ces & your support of the Brock Circle! from De voluptate et valetudine, 1475.

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Carol Brock, Dolores Snyder, Jeanne A. Voltz, Claire Boasi, LDNY Honors LDEI Founder Julie Dannenbaum Carol Brock on Her 90th Birthday Members Chapter’s Membership in the Brock Circle Announced Beth Allen Janet Burgess By Joan Brower (New York) Crowning the evening were heartfelt toasts by mem- Dolores Cakebread bers including Chapter President Margaret Happel Eileen Dubose On a brilliant June 18th Manhattan evening in the Perry. Carol offered historical perspectives and recog- Toria Emas elegant penthouse apartment of Marsha Palanci, the Patty Erd New York Chapter (LDNY) paid tribute to LDEI’s nized the many substantive achievements secured by visionary founder, iconic trailblazer, and treasured LDNY since the organization’s founding in 1976 and Alice Gautsch Foreman friend, Grand Dame Carol Brock, on the occasion of the establishment of LDEI 10 years later. With four of Linda Joyce Forristal her 90th birthday. the original Charter Members (Carol Brock, Harriet Patricia Gelles In an atmosphere of deep affection and loyal Lembeck, Laura Maioglio and Saralie Slonsky) pres- Maria Gomez-Laurens ent at the event—almost 40 years after the Chapter’s camaraderie characteristic of the organization and Mary Ellen Griffin founding in 1976, Carol acknowledged her pride that its founder, the gathering brought Crickett Karson together 55 Dames to honor Carol the organization Holly Arnold Kinney in grand style. To help fulfill her has grown to 29 mission to ensure the growth and chapters, and the Melissa's Produce stability of LDEI, the chapter importance of our Hayley Matson-Mathes announced its participation as a ongoing role in Mary S. Moore Brock Circle member. breaking down Marsha J. Palanci Planned as un pique-nique Fran- barriers through Braiden Rex-Johnson çais, evocative of the warmth and the bonds of Aileen Robbins hospitality of the French Provençal food, wine, and Dolores Snyder lifestyle, the event was organized hospitality. She Ann Stratte by Joan Bloom, Marsha Palanci, also announced Deborah Mintcheff, and Eleanor yet another Ronna Telsey Sigona. It included a sumptuous milestone—a new Vanessa Trost selection of member-prepared or scholarship fund Sharon Van Meter -donated, French-inspired ap- of $92,000. Carolyn Wente petizers, pâtés, fromage, saucis- As a final trib- Lori Willis sons, crudités, vegetable tarts, ute, an authentic and ratatouilles, accompanied by Jacques Pepin Chapter Members French Champagne and wines. watercolor cre- Atlanta Chapter Sweets included chocolate truffles, patisseries, and a multi-tiered ated especially Austin Chapter tower of 90 cupcake confections in honor of Carol’s for Carol was presented to our organization’s peer- Boston Chapter 90th birthday. less founder. Chicago Chapter The bountiful pique-nique was lavishly displayed in In conclusion, she quoted the inimitable James Beard Dallas Chapter while raising collective glasses to the future: “If we Marsha’s dining room replete with wood ceiling beams Houston Chapter and marbled work stations, all looking out upon a really believe in food, we must do something about it, for our voices should be raised above the rest. As mem- New York Chapter spectacular outdoor patio laden with lavender flowers Philadelphia Chapter and overlooking the majestic Manhattan skyline. bers of Les Dames d’Escoffier, LET’S DO IT!” Seattle Chapter St. Louis Chapter Above: Marsha Palanci, Beth Allen, Eleanor Sigona, and Lidia Bastianich. Nancy Jessup, Deborah Mintcheff, Joan Brower, San Francisco Chapter and Joyce O’Neill. Treats from the “pique-nique” table. Best wishes from Dames from various chapters and Jacques Pepin watercolor. Janeen Sarlin and Carol Brock.

Fall Quarterly 2014 15 Below: Kikkoman Sales USA is an LDEI Silver partner. The company is represented by chef and manager of culinary development Helen Roberts (San Francisco). Shown here is Helen at the Partner’s Luncheon at the 2013 LDEI Annual Conference in Austin, Texas.

Kikkoman Washoku Initiative: In Praise of Japanese Cuisine

In December 2013, “washoku traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese” were added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. In recent years, it has been observed that washoku—traditional Japanese cuisine—is deteriorating in Japan, owing to a range of issues that include eating alone and unbalanced nutrition because of changes in diet. As an Intangible Cultural Heritage, washoku was noted Mr. Naoyuki Yanagihara of Kinsa-ryu Yanagi- food arrangement. In addition, they intro- for its inclusion of “various fresh ingredients, hara School of Traditional Japanese Cuisine. duced the sensibility of seasonal elements its use of natural tastes, and its well-balanced The lively discussion was coordinated by in washoku, together with how traditional and healthy diets.” This recognition by Mr. Hitoshi Kakizawa. festivals and celebrations influence Japanese UNESCO is expected to reaffirm the distinc- Each chef is based in either Kyoto or Tokyo, cuisine. tive advantages of washoku, which will help and all are active in promoting washoku in For over 50 years, Kikkoman has been nurture and promote traditional Japanese Japan and abroad. Their discussion touched promoting its soy sauce around the world. food culture, not only abroad, but also in on issues that included various aspects of Through its business activities, the company Japan. washoku, including its value and appeal, is also committed to the global introduction Over the years, Kikkoman, the leading man- while inspiring the audience to cook washoku of Japanese food culture in its promotion of ufacturer of traditional Japanese soy-sauce recipes and ways to include them in their the international exchange of food cultures; seasoning, has set forth various initiatives to daily diet. this is an integral part of its management support the growth of washoku. One of the The four chefs later held a series of four philosophy. This philosophy is called most recent of these was held in Tokyo in No- cooking classes, wherein participants learned “Kikkoman’s Promise,” which proposes a vember 2013, when Kikkoman sponsored a not only how to prepare the basic washoku well-balanced and nutritious diet that brings panel discussion entitled, “Praising the Appeal meal of ichiju san-sai (one soup and three out the flavor of the ingredients. of Japanese Cuisine: Washoku is Wonderful!” dishes, served with rice and pickles), but also Kikkoman aims to contribute to a greater With an eye on enhancing next-generation how to take a comprehensive approach to awareness of washoku and encourage its awareness of washoku, the panel comprised washoku, including tips on tableware and role in daily life. By creating delicious dishes four young chefs of Japanese cuisine: through encounters with other food cultures, Mr. Takuji Takahashi of Kinobu restaurant; Kikkoman continues to advance a clearer un- Mr. Hisato Nakahigashi of Miyamasou; Mr. derstanding of this healthy dietary approach Yoshihiro Takahashi of Hyotei; and and its relevance to our lives, our times, and our cultures.

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FALL Quarterly 2014 17 WE

Meaningful Blogs from Dames

By Ellen Kanner (Miami) By Jennifer Schell (British Columbia) “Summer surprised us,” writes T.S. Eliot. The phrase comes early The most earnest way for me to describe the tradition of preserv- in ‘TheW asteland,’ and it surprises the reader, too, already so lost ing food for our family came directly from my father’s mouth. A in the poem’s rich layers as to be startled by these five simple syl- few years ago when the term “sustainability” became popular, I asked lables that come in the seventh line. him about his thoughts on that, knowing Summer always surprises me, especially full well that this is, and always has been, our September, which I still associate with fall, family’s lifestyle and in general, the farmer’s with going back to school and the whole lifestyle. He said, “Sustainability? Ya, we call it gestalt of it, from the new dress my mother survival.” always got me for the first day of class in My lifestyle luckily does not have to hinge grade school, to college in Bennington, on preserving the harvest as a winter survival where leaves were starting to change color. tool—for me, it is more like a winter flavour So I trot out my limited autumnal ward- survival tool. It seems that the contentment robe. Only I’m in Miami and it’s in the 90s, hotter, even, than that comes from learning how to survive with such skills as farming, August. Even though it happens every year, the end of summer gardening, preserving, hunting and foraging is enjoying a renaissance catches me by surprise. I always call Labor Day “Memorial Day,” in our communities and modern culture. Farmers markets are thriv- the other holiday that brackets the summer, the one that comes in ing as we have learned the importance of knowing where our food is the beginning, in May. Labor Day means summer over, game over. coming from and WHOM it is coming from. That may not be such a bad thing. This summer in particular has I hate to think that it is a purely fear-driven revolution but that is been a time of surprises, but not the sort where you get flowers most likely the fact. Words like GMO, growth hormones, “phish from a secret admirer or run into a long-lost friend on the street. pharming” and Monsanto are haunting the media streams, reminding This summer, the surprises have been more on the Biblical order us that we as consumers cannot trust our big-box stores and sadly now —hurricanes, earthquakes, floods, drought, wildfires, the anniver- even some of the local farm stands. Many have been caught lately sary of 9/11. Closer to home, our neighbor was arrested (I always with false advertising—peeling “Product of Mexico” or “–China” suspected he was up to something) and my father-in-law died. stickers off of the produce and retailing it as a local product. It is It all coincided as summer turned to fall, a fairly grim harvest, a shameful and scary, but, as usual, the all-mighty dollar and greed modern-day equivalent of the plagues, a reason to stock up on continue to drive most of the industry. Unfortunately for them, we are NSAIDs [Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs]. now asking questions. For me, putting wry words to a bad situation helps rob it of some So, back to sustainability—or shall I say, “survival.” Canning is a bril- of its malevolent power. But nomenclature only gets you so far liant tool of preservation that seems to be back in style. Chefs and home when the ground you’ve been sure of shifts beneath your feet. For cooks are doing it—both again finding the romance awarded from the one friend, it meant losing his health and his job and with it, his line up of jewel-filled jars in the larder come late fall. Memories are income and his sense of self. For another, the ground shifted liter- peaked of our mothers’ and grandmothers’ preserves and the taste of ally when her farm flooded, leaving it three feet under water. On those canned peaches months after harvest—so much better than any a good day, I am edgy enough to envision Armageddon, I don’t store-bought variety. My cookbook, The Butcher, The Baker, The Wine & need any help. Cheese Maker-An Okanagan Cookbook contains one of my Granny’s reci- What do you do in times like these? My friend with the flooded pes for her relish. It is a true celebration of her vegetable garden harvest. farm did not lie down on the floor and have a tantrum, although Me, I am a jammer at heart, and have each year contented myself God knows, I wouldn’t have blamed her. She cooked up the toma- throughout the growing season by making various preserves. Straw- toes her husband had harvested—all 700 pounds of them. berry jam in spring followed by late-summer peach, various berries If we can’t change the course of nature, at least we can make din- in between ending in harvest treats like crabapple jelly and my new ner. The very act of cooking means taking one step then another. favorite: plum and cardamom jam. Inspired by my dear friend Irene There are tomatoes to can, dull physical acts that impel us towards Ens, also known as The amJ Goddess, Irene runs a jam-making hobby life. Cooking walks the thin line between sacrament and faking it business in Calgary and sells her delicious creations at various Alberta till you make it. It does not make everything better, but it engages farmers’ markets. She is a master of jam-making and is a creative us, it fills the emptiness. And we get dinner, too. genius when it comes to choosing flavour combinations.H ere is [The author then gives a recipe forS ummer Surprise Stew.] my spin on one of her recipes. [The recipe for Okanagan Plum & Ellen Kanner is the author of author of Feeding the Hungry Cardamom Jam follows in her blog.] Ghost: Life, Faith and What to Eat for Dinner, and blogs at Happy Harvest! October 7, 2013 http://ellen-ink.com Jennifer Schell blogs at www.anokanagancookbook.com.

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Fall Quarterly 2014 19

77223_12_BrevilleHEMIcontrol_v2.indd 1 8/29/12 9:39 AM Seattle Chapter Cultivates Green Tables Grant Program By Braiden Rex-Johnson Seattle Green Tables Committee (Seattle), LDEI Second VP members and Three years of hard work, along with the speakers at the June meeting literal and figurative planting of many seeds, gather on the came to fruition during the Seattle Chapter’s patio at the monthly meeting in June at the Washington Washington Park Arboretum. Park Arboretum. Designed to cultivate a deeper understand- Photos: Braiden Rex-Johnson ing of the chapter’s Green Tables (GT) grant program, the meeting kicked off with a brief history provided by GT Chair Leslie Mackie. “LDEI started the GT farm-to-fork initiative in 2006, and the Seattle Chapter got on the bandwagon in 2010,” she said. In a matter of months, the hard-working committee had developed a comprehensive initiative dubbed the “Green Tables Food and Nutrition Competitive Grants Program.” After receiving “seed” money from the Seattle Board, the committee set up Grant Guidelines, posted them on the chapter’s website for easy access, and sent out a press release to help Monique Barbeau Renee Erickson spread the word to potential applicants. , and . “In 2013, a brand-new high school was A rigorous selection process that included a During the June meeting, 49 attendees built, and the old one, along with the garden, Letter of Inquiry, a Request for Proposal, and heard the GT Committee’s most recent was demolished,” Diana Dillard, a chef/in- personal interviews for the finalists followed. grantees talk about planting gardens, creat- structor at SWHS, recounts. “A generous Les The first four grantees were announced in ing curriculum, and teaching kids how to Dames, Seattle GT Grant was instrumental in January 2011. cook with fresh produce. building a beautiful new functional and flour- When judging the applicants, committee “We want our kids to see the garden as a ishing student garden with an outdoor learn- members looked for projects that would resource, like the computer lab,” the spokes- ing space open to the entire student body.” Continuing the evening’s fresh-from-the- educate people about seasonality and cooking person for Sand Point Way Elementary garden food theme, a buffet dinner replete simple, healthful meals; provide innovative School said. with several types of foccacia, an assortment solutions to offer healthy meals in schools; “It’s most exciting when children find a plant of vegetarian salads, and gelato with lavender and engender early learning and exposure in and recognize it. They are much more likely sauce for dessert was prepared by Lisa Naka- schools of the garden-to-table cycle. to eat foods they grow,” said the Kids Club mura, Katherine Kehrli, and Maria Coassin. Project grants, which are awarded for up to After-School Learning Center representative. The 125 students at Refugee Immigrant Attendees were encouraged to take $3,000 each, last for one year, with priority home their favorite plants from the given to women-led projects. Site visits are Family Center, a nonprofit preschool, eat only fresh foods (no canned or frozen items). tables’centerpieces—flower and herb starts conducted periodically to ensure funds are nurtured from seed by Leslie Mackie. being used properly. Menus change every 10 weeks (with no dishes repeated), and meals are served on “Our grants are reaching and impact a large In 2014, the program awarded $9,200 to four group of students, families, and communi- grant recipients. To date, the committee has real plates with cutlery. The culinary-arts curriculum at Shorewood ties,” Leslie concluded. “When you engage given 15 grants, worth more than $30,000, to kids in growing and eating foods, it engages 501(c)(3) organizations in the Seattle area. High School (SWHS) is based on using local, seasonal, and sustainable food products and the parents and leads to a cycle that stabilizes The GT Committee holds an annual the economy.” fundraising event, Summer Supper on Vashon practices. In 2007, the SWHS Culinary Arts Program partnered with Washington State It’s obvious that, seed by seed, the Seattle Island, which includes private farm tours Chapter’s Green Tables Committee is help- followed by a multi-course dinner at Leslie’s University Master Gardener volunteers to plant, grow, and nurture a culinary garden, as ing gardens, children, and teenagers, to take home. Current members of the busy commit- root and grow. tee include Alice Gautsch Foreman, Kristi well as teach students seed-to-plate practices and composting techniques. http://lesdamesseattle.com/greentables/de- Drake, Katherine Kehrli, Lisa Nakamura, fault.html

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Wailea Agricultural Group, Inc.

“Farm Fresh from the Big Island to your Kitchen” www.waileaag.com

Willis Brings Board Greetings to Chicago’s Annual Meeting

Acting on one of the LDEI Board’s 2014 goals—Connectivity and Communication—which includes strengthening relationships with all chapters, I was pleased to have been invited to attend the Chicago Chapter’s Annual Meeting and New Member Induction. On June 16, then President Jennifer Lamplough welcomed approximately 70 dames to the annual event held this year at the Racquet Club of Chicago. During the reception, I was able to speak with a number of fascinating women leaders. Later, five new members were inducted and Jennifer was celebrated as she transitioned the presidency to another amazing leader, Julie Chernoff. There are several “best practices” in action among the Chicago team, including a fundraising effort that raised an astounding figure bolstered by the winning combination of a “Dessert Dash” along with silent and live auctions (the latter of which included a call for funds). The chapter’s fundraising will help fuel their scholarship efforts and In 1973, our family developed a simple plan: allow them to take on another strong partnership with the Roberti Plant a 22-acre vineyard in the right place, grow superior Community House, a safe haven providing food-education opportunities for neighborhood children. grapes and make great wines. It wasn’t so simple but 40 The Chicago meeting also opened the door for a future regional years and 560 prime vineyard acres later…we’re still at it. event including Chicago, St. Louis, and Kansas City. So, Kansas City, here I come! Our new plan? Do it another 40 years. [Editor’s note: LDEI Board members fund their own visits to chapters.] http://lesdameschicago.org/2014/05/swank-a-licious/ —Jack, Dolores, Bruce and Dennis Cakebread

www.cakebread.com

ATLANTA Market Cooking School where she volunteered her chef experience Shelley Pedersen for many classes. For the memorial, Dames brought their specialties, Our chapter meeting theme in May was “Georgia as well as some of Denice’s favorite recipes. They wrote down memo- Grown—Celebrating our Home!” Vice President of ries for her family and visited over a wall of photos of Denice with Programs Dana Dabruzzi and her committee teamed celebrity chefs she had assisted. Copies of some of Denice’s favorite with Georgia Grown, a marketing and economic recipes were distributed. development program of the Georgia Department of Agriculture, whose goal is to aid Georgia’s agricultural Birmingham economy by bringing together producers, suppliers, Angela R. Schmidt distributors, retailers, agritourism, and consumers in Birmingham Dames are excited to announce a cookbook project that one powerful, statewide community. Held at one of will benefit the Community Food Bank of Central Alabama, a Feeding Atlanta’s most exclusive and innovative kitchen appli- America food bank that serves 12 counties in Central Alabama. The ance galleries, this special evening began with a pecan- book proceeds will fund a pamphlet of easy and nutritious recipes with oil tasting presented by Clay Oliver of Oliver Farm. step-by-step photos that can be prepared with items from the Food Holly Chute and Jennifer Booker prepared the meal Bank to those who need food assistance. In addition, the Birmingham using local Georgia products. Georgia’s Commissioner Chapter held a Foodie Yard Sale in May that benefited the Community of Agriculture, Gary Black, spoke to the gathering Food Bank of Central Alabama and the Pepper Place Saturday Market. about the importance of the program of which Holly Currently, Birmingham Dames are meeting once a month for a ca- has just been named its executive chef and how to be sual Lunch Mix at local restaurants to share good food and company. ambassadors for local farmers. Other events this quarter have included an Indian curry cooking class Green Tables Committee Co-Chairs, Julie Shaffer and a local brewery tour. and Jennifer Booker, continue our long-standing relationship with the TheW ylde Center, whose vi- CHARLESTON sion is to engage youth and families in their environ- Susan Slack ment and community through programs and classes. A dozen new members were pinned by their mentors at the annual This year, GreenT ables strengthened its outreach to meeting in September. They are: Jeanne DeCamilla (partner/owner, include the senior-citizens programs at the Decatur Olinda Olives); Rhonda Dunning (culinary instructor, Art Institute Housing Authority. of Charleston); Jamee Haley (executive director, Lowcountry Local First ); Cassondra Hall-Bushey (Moet Hennessey USA): Andrea AUSTIN Limehouse (co-owner, Limehouse Produce); Marilyn Markel Kitty Crider (culinary director, Southern Season); Ann Marshall (co-founder, In June, Austin Dames culled their kitchens and High Wire Distilling Co); Hanna Raskin (food writer and critic); held their first Dames Kitchen Sale at the Mueller Carol Rice (sales manager, Charleston Tea Plantation); Nicki Root Farmers’ Market. Led by Cathy Cochran-Lewis (owner, Grassroots Wine); Maggie White (editor-in-chief, The Local and Kelly Ann Hargrove, we sold out of nearly Palate); and Gillian Zettler (executive director, Charleston Wine + everything and made $1,400. We met our goals: Food Festival). increasing public awareness of Dames, team building The chapter awarded $1,000 scholarships to Alea Harkawik (The among members, Art Institute of Charleston); Courtney Everton, LeeAnn Lower, and helping support Chaisson Dangerfield (College of Charleston); and Alyssa Brewe one of the com- (Trident Technical College). munity’s newer The chapter’s annual fundraiser, An Autumn Affair: AW ine and markets, and Artisan Food Celebration, will take place on October 2, at Lowndes raising money Grove Plantation on the banks of the Ashley River. for scholarships for women in Cleveland the culinary profession. The Shara Bohach public is asking On July 14, Cleveland Dames were treated to a private, behind- for another, the-scenes tour of the new Cleveland Convention Center, which is and members, connected to the state-of-the-art Global Center for Health In- now with a little novation. “The Globe,” as it’s called locally, is the only facility in experience under the world that displays the future of health care, presented on four their aprons, themed floors. Levy Restaurants’ Executive Chef Matt Del Regno seem willing. guided us, and we ended up in the incredible service kitchen with In July, the its carefully selected equipment. The tour ended with a sampling of chapter hosted a potluck memorial for its late presi- delightful amuse-bouches prepared by the staff. dent, Denice Woods, in conjunction with Central On May 22, we hosted our annual fundraiser, themed “Mixing it

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Up with the Dames! An Underground Evening of Craft Cocktails.” The HOUSTON event featured local lady bartenders shaking up specialty mini-cocktails, live music, small plates, and a silent auction. The event was a great suc- Julie Hettiger-Nelson cess and raised significant funds for GreenT ables. This past year, our chapter opened with a welcome dinner at Etoile Cuisine et Bar, enjoying a lovely French meal at the restaurant of Monica Verpiand. In October, we gathered for COLORADO happy hour and small bites at Shade, owned by Claire Smith. Jan Findlater and Carol Fenster Mid-winter doldrums were enlivened by a potluck at Debbie The Colorado Dames enjoy monthly get-togethers for fundraising, Wheeler’s home, during which Dames spoke of career paths, education, and social activities. In June, we had dinner at Tocabe: An things that are deeply meaningful in our work, and how we can American Indian Eatery in Denver. Owner Ben Jacobs shared the his- mentor other women who choose this path. tory of his native Osage cuisine. He prepared a traditional Three Sisters Our major scholarship fundraiser, Culinary Rummage Sale, Soup with red hominy, tepary beans, and butternut squash. Dames was in partnership with Recipe for Success, which provided the and guests feasted on Tocabe’s traditional Indian frybread “tacos” with venue for staging and the sale. We had two happy hours to drop buffalo, chicken, pork, and vegetarian fillings. For dessert, we sampled off items for the sale, first at the home of Carla Buerkle and the frybread nuggets with Wojapi (a thick berry sauce). other at 60° Mastercrafted, where we enjoyed refreshing cock- In July, we headed up to Cheyenne, Wyoming, to attend the Frontier tails and visited with prospective new members. The Culinary Days Rodeo, an annual Rummage Sale raised over $2,000 and gave us a good reason to event for our group. spend a gorgeous spring day together. We enjoyed a leisurely Summer began with frozen shandies and sangria when we breakfast and parade, gathered at hipster D & T Drive Inn for a seminar on smart- headed to the fair- phone food photography. We are very pleased to have several grounds, visited with a new, younger members join our Houston Chapter and are avidly chuck-wagon chef, and recruiting more “women in food and wine.” TheH ouston food watched the Rodeo. scene is alive and well, and we are trying to capitalize on this! In August, we held a fundraiser at TheW in- MIAMI ery at the Holy Cross Ellen Kanner Abbey, owned by Sally On May 31, we Davidson. gathered at Smith & Our 2014 scholar- Wollensky for one ship winners are of our most reward- Leticia Reid and Nicole ing efforts, the Luchau, who are un- Awards Legacy and dergraduates majoring Scholarship Lun- in Hospitality Manage- cheon, organized ment at the University of Denver, Daniels College of Business. They erew by Education Chair honored at a potluck dinner at Nancy Merrill’s house, where we dined Ana Plana. Alejandra Bigai contributed delicious chocolates on Green Chili Stew and healthful salads, including one with red quinoa. and beautiful visuals of a blown-up check; Roxana Garciga gen- erously donated the wines; and Claire Tomlin provided flowers. DALLAS Ivette Day of Smith & Wollensky was on hand to provide Renie Steves support. Dames cheered on scholarship recipient Melissa Michel On June 1, “Celebrate Sum- and realized once again the importance of fundraising, mentor- mer with Dallas Dames,” a ship, and relationship-building efforts. “It not only changes a fundraising event, was held at student’s life, it’s a chance to continue that relationship,” said Abacus Restaurant, featuring President Dorothee Rubin. Sharon Hage and Jill Bates. On July 13, a Bastille Day brunch at Simpson Park was orga- Joanne Bondy and Lynn nized by Outreach Chair Nancy Ancrum and featured a bounti- Mattie assisted, along with ful array of French pastries, salads, and wine, bien sur. one scholarship recipient and A garden tour and planting workshop at Little Haiti Commu- El Centro College students. nity Garden was held on September 13, organized by Nancy and The 65 guests gathered for a Green Tables Chair Claire Tomlin. We will switch from garden- reception, seated dinner, live ing grubbies to party frocks for our annual Escoffier Dinner on auction, and dessert. The event Friday, November 14. Co-chaired by Alejandra Bigai and Susan raised $20,000 for the Dallas Brustman, the evening will feature a casino, a Dame-prepared scholarship fund. five-course feast, and Miami’s own James Beard Award-winning A week later, Dames met at chef, Michelle Bernstein. the Fort Worth home of Renie Steves for the annual board MONTEREY BAY meeting, election of officers, and potluck picnic. Five newbieD ames attended their first event—full of Dames’ hospitality. Multi-generational Charlyne Brown was the theme as two Dames brought their baby girls with them. Picnic The Monterey Chapter is pleased to honor three outstand- Adrian Schueneman, Hunter Brooke dishes ranged from savory—a spicy Thai meat entree and succulent enchi- ing members this year: Lowder, Eleni Papadakis. ladas topped with avocados and queso fresco—to sweet gooey chocolate and Adrian was named the Califor- cake and fresh blueberry pie. When is the food not good at a Dames’ nia ProStart Educator of the Year for 2013-2014 by the Cali- potluck? Renie and Shelby Schafer shared chocolate and cheese combina- fornia Restaurant Association Education Foundation. She was tions from the Edible London tour. honored in May at the awards presentation in Chicago.

FALL Quarterly 2014 23 Hunter is Director of Hospitality at Holman Ranch in Carmel tion Food Search,” was jointly produced by Scott Schnuck, Valley, and she also crafted Hunter’s Cuvee 2010 Pinot Noir, that chairman of Schnuck Markets, Inc., and Sunny Schaefer, won a silver medal at Sunset Magazine’s 3rd Annual International executive director of Wine Competition. Operation Food Search Eleni is assistant winemaker at Archery Summit, the acclaimed (OFS). The fund- Dundee Hills Winery in Dayton, Oregon. She boasts outstanding raiser was designed to credentials from her previous position at Domaine Serene, where celebrate the family- she created an impressive series of high-scoring 94+ point wines. owned grocery company’s 75th anniversary NEW YORK and raise funds for the Margaret Happel Perry organization that The New York Chapter’s greatest accomplishment in recent feeds approximately months has been to select 29 scholarship winners and fund their 150,000 people every month—one-third are children. The ongoing education with a record $93,000 raised and contrib- gala featured the three-time Grammy award-winning trio, uted by our membership and scholarship partners. Thanks go The Pointer Sisters, and some of the top names in food, to Linda Lawry and Karen Goodlad, who headed the nine- beverage, and supplies. It was coordinated by Lori Willis, member selection committee. The winners were celebrated at the Schnucks director of communications, and moderated by International Culinary Center thanks to the great generosity of Catherine Neville, publisher of Feast magazine. Many St. Dorothy Hamilton and the hard work of event chairs Kathleen Louis Dames volunteered to help at the gala. Sanderson and Caroline Jackson. Other events that have brought the membership together: A San FRANCISCO glorious celebration of Carol Brock’s 90th birthday was hosted Fran Gage by Marsha Palanci (see page 15). Carol’s fete was quickly fol- Roberta Klugman and Purcell Murray hosted The lowed by an event joining LDNY and members of the San Fran- Chew’s Carla Hall (Washington) in conversation with cisco Chapter in a California Olive Oil Tasting at Marisa May’s Celia Sack in April. Thirty-five people, including seven SD26 restaurant (see page 25). Dames, dined on a breakfast created from recipes in her Late June gave 18 members the opportunity for a day in the book, Carla’s Comfort Foods: Favorite Dishes from Around country in Katonah and Caramoor, planned by Karen Benvin the World (Atria Books, 2014). Ransom. The event was filled with art, architecture, and music Celia hosted a May cookbook-signing potluck luncheon and completed by a delicious afternoon tea. Before our August of recipes from Deborah Madison’s latest book, Vegetable hiatus and the well-earned break for Program Committee Chairs, Literacy (Ten Speed Press, 2013) winner of IACP and Kimberly Tryba and Joyce Appelman, there was an exclusive visit James Beard awards this year. to Brooklyn Grange, a commercial rooftop farm growing table Also in May, the San Francisco Dames once again joined produce and epitomizing agriculture in an urban environment. with the Audubon Canyon Ranch (ACR) Bouverie Pre- serve for the M.F.K. Fisher Art of Eating event. Our goal is Palm Springs to preserve M.F.K.’s Last House and her literary presence as Pam Bieri a historical site. More than 30 Dames participated, donat- We held a Mexican potluck Cinco de Mayo meeting at Kristy ing auction items and food for the lavish picnic lunch. Kneiding’s home. Gail Nottberg, Janet Newcomb, Nikki Bian- ACR’s Trisha Fontan praised the Dames by saying, “We chi, Nancy Cohee, Pam Bieri, Robyn Howard, and President couldn’t do it without your support, and honestly I am not Lisa Wherry brought tasty favorites such as enchiladas, chiles sure we would even try at this point.” rellenos, tostados, salsas, and guacamole served with margaritas. On July 24, seven Dames joined Mary Gassen for a tour The chapter’s June New-Member meeting was held at Costa of her Noe Valley Bakery, opened in 1995. The group and Zola Nichols’ new, expanded Desert Wines & Spirits. We observed bread and cookie production in various stages, celebrated Zola’s followed by lunch at a nearby Peruvian restaurant. birthday and welcomed potential SEATTLE new members: Braiden Rex-Johnson Mindy Reed, Book Larder in Seattle’s funky Fremont neighborhood owner of Zin was the site for a special open-house meeting in April American Bistro that celebrated Seattle Dames with recently published and Alicante Span- cookbooks. Food samples were served from book recipes ish Mediterranean by Linda Augustine (The Crimson Spoon, Washington Cuisine; and State University Press, 2013); Julie Kramis Hearne and Diana Wentworth Sharon Kramis (The Dutch Oven Cookbookand Cast Iron (Los Angeles/Orange County) who recently moved here. Skillet Big Flavors, Sasquatch Books, 2006 and 2011); Lisa Our first-of-the-season fundraiser will be a Holiday Gift Bazaar Dupar (Fried Chicken and Champagne, Southern Accents, at the Mary Pickford Theater on November 8 with many one-of- Inc, 2010); Cynthia Nims (Gourmet Game Night and a-kind vendors. Salty Snacks, Ten Speed Press, 2010 and 2012); and Leslie Mackie (More from Macrina, Sasquatch Books, 2012). ST. LOUIS Book Larder donated 15% of sales ($225) to the chapter. Lori Willis Our May meeting took place at the bustling Steelhead On May 15, three St. Louis Dames, Sunny Schaefer, Lori Wil- Diner in the Pike Place Market, where Chef/Owner Kevin lis, and Catherine Neville, were front and center of an exciting Davis and Chef Anthony Polizzi created a five-course menu and precedent-setting event that drew a crowd of approximately paired with craft cider from Finnriver Farm & Cidery on 800 and raised more than $860,000 for hunger relief in the St. Washington’s Olympic Pennisula. Its co-founder, Crystie Louis area. The “Schnucks Anniversary Gala Benefiting Opera- Kisler, led 24 Dames through a tasting of the farm’s award- 24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International winning ciders and San Francisco and New York Chapters fruit wines. Menu items included Collaborate on California Olive Oil Program Forever Roast Pork, Neah Bay Black By Nancy Ash and Roberta Klugman (San Cod and Apple Francisco), and Joyce Appelman (New York) Upside-Down Exemplifying the founding principles of LDEI, the New York Cake. Special (LDNY) and San Francisco Chapters co-produced a sold- guests included out educational program on California extra virgin olive oil New York Dames (EVOO). Showcasing the expertise, hospitality, and generosity of Jan Hazard and several members, the tasting and reception took place at SD26 Lidia Bastianich, restaurant in New York City on June 26, with support from the who was in town California Olive Oil Council (COOC). Net proceeds benefitted to promote her the LDNY Chapter’s scholarship fund. latest book, Lidia’s Attended by retailers, educators, media, chefs, and students, Commonsense and featuring five certified EVOOs from California, the panel Italian Cooking: discussed the history of California olive oil and its uses in today’s 150 Delicious and kitchens. The panel included San Francisco Dames Nancy Ash, Simple Recipes Anyone Can Master (Knopf, 2013). Patricia Darragh, and Sara Wilson, along with restaurateur Tony May, co-owner of SD26, and his daughter, LDNY Dame WASHINGTON Marisa May. LDNY and Chicago Dame Nancy Wall Hopkins, CiCi Williamson Better Homes and Gardens senior deputy editor, food and enter- In March, Ruth Gresser hosted a “FUNraiser” in her home to cel- taining/brand catalyst, masterfully moderated the tasting and ebrate the publication of her first cookbook, Kitchen Workshop—Pizza lively panel discussion. (Quarry Books, 2014). Also feted was Carla Hall, whose second cook- Executive director of the COOC, Patricia Darragh, dis- book, Carla’s Comfort Foods: Favorite Dishes from Around the World, cussed the growth of California EVOO from a small number was just published. Event chair was Ann Stratte, who was aided by of boutique brands in the 1990s to current production levels Theresa Morrison, Janis McLean, Bev Bates, Stacey Adams, Susan of over 3 million gallons per year. As the managing partner of Callahan, and Susan Wallace. Oakland-based Market Hall Foods/The astaP Shop, Sara Wilson D.C. Dames joined the American Friends of Turkey for a luncheon commented that in the mid-80s there were only three EVOOs and lecture on “Exploring Turkey’s Culinary Heritage” at Café Divan offered in her store, compared with 50-plus oils today.T ony May in April. Speaking was Ms. Banu Özden, Project Executive of the found the range of flavors in the California oils quite interesting, Turkish Cultural Foundation’s Culinary Arts Center (Yemek Sanatları yet different from the Italian oils. Nancy Ash, COOC educa- Merkezi—YESAM) from Istanbul, Turkey. tion coordinator and president of Strictly Olive Oil, noted that In June, the chapter inducted 10 new members at the official spring increasingly, consumers now understand what the phrase “extra business meeting and luncheon held at Ris Lacoste’s restaurant RIS. virgin” actually means. Two scholarships were presented: Nora White ($4,000), entering The menu includedW atermelon & Beet Salad with Enzo Bold; her second year at the University of Michigan in Health Nutrition, Sorana Beans with Sicilian Shrimp with Lucero Ascolano; Chilled and Skylar Fowler ($2,000), entering Northern Virginia Community Tomato Soup, Burrata, & Celery Sprouts with Frantoio Grove College to finish her Hospitality Management Associate degree. Ris’s Fassone; Beef Tartare, Olive Oil Mascarpone Mayo, & Summer perfectly prepared menu included quail and Baba au “Rhubarb.” Truffle withasolivo P Signature Blend; and Wild Bass Carpaccio, The theme of our July potluck was “Dishes from My Heritage.” Held Lime, Cucumbers, & Fennel Pollen with Séka Hills Premium at Camilla Rothwell’s lovely home, Dames brought foods representative Arbequina. Séka Hills was also used in the gelato and cookies. of their ancestors’ origins. The event also showcased California wines, courtesy of Caro- lyn Wente and Amy Hoopes of Wente Family Estates and Julie Johnson of Tres Sabores. Roberta Klugman and Joyce Appelman envisioned and produced the program, bringing together members of both chapters and guests for a festive educational afternoon.

Roberta Klugman, Patricia Darragh, Nancy Ash (all San Francisco), Tony May, Sara Wilson (SF), Nancy Wall Hopkins New members of the Washington Chapter are Debra Moser (MeatCrafters), (Chicago and NY), Marisa May, Cathy Barrow (Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Kitchen), Bettina Stern (Chaia), Marjo- Joyce Appelman (both New rie Meek-Bradley (Ripple restaurant), Suzanne Simon (Chaia), Julie Peterson York). California Extra Virgin (Marq Energie Consulting), Marie Ostrosky (Grey Salt Culinary), and Mary Beth Olive Oils Sara Wilson, Tony Albright (attorney, food writer). Not pictured, Paula Shoyer (cookbook author) May, Patricia Darragh. Photos: and Robyn Webb (nutritionist, cookbook author). Photos by CiCi Williamson. MenWhoDine

FALL Quarterly 2014 25 Member Milestones Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii)

ATLANTA Oil and was recently recognized by the COLORADO Virginia Willis is pleased to announce National Italian American Foundation Carol Fenster is pleased to announce her next cookbook, Lighten Up, Y’all: for her contributions to Italian cuisine. her forthcoming cookbook, 100 Best Classic Southern Recipes Made Healthy Michele Topor Quick Gluten-Free and Wholesome (Ten Speed Press, is celebrating 20 Recipes, (Houghton March 2015), with photography by years since found- Mifflin Harcourt, Angie Mosier. The success of Virginia’s ing Boston Food October 2014). FoodNetwork.com blog column, Down- Tours—market The book showcases Home Comfort, resulted in expansion tours to the Italian recipes that take less of her culinary services to include food North End Market than 30 minutes to photography. and to Chinatown prepare. It is Carol’s to celebrate, pre- 12th gluten-free AUSTIN Michele Topor cookbook. Carol Fenster Tracy Claros’ Mil- serve and nurture Michele Morris lionaire Shortbread Boston’s culinary heritage. Michele’s ’s with Smoked cooking classes, market tours and first cookbook, Hickory Sea Salt culinary trips to Italy have been featured Tasting Colorado: won the golden on television—including Travel Chan- Favorite Recipes sofi™ statue for out- nel, Food Network, HGTV and CNN. from the Centennial standing cookie at www.bostonfoodtours.com State (Farcountry Press, 2013), has the 2014 Summer Tracy Claros CHARLESTON Fancy Food Show won the Colorado Carrie Morey, owner of the nationally Michele Morris in New York City. Tracy, CEO of the Book Award in the renowned Callie’s Charleston Biscuits, category of general Sticky Toffee Pudding Company, previ- opened a new venture in the city’s his- ously has won other sofi™ specialty-food nonfiction.H er second cookbook, A Taste toric downtown called Callie’s Hot Little of Washington: Favorite Recipes from the awards for her puddings and Chocolate Biscuit. The counter-service restaurant Tiffin Bar. Evergreen State (Farcountry Press, August features seven varieties of hot biscuits, 2014) features 120 recipes from top chefs Cathy Strange became the first non- bowls of slow-cooked grits with “accou- and venues across Washington State. Italian and first American to receive the trements,” French press coffee, mint tea, Coltellino d’oro (golden knife), by the and daily specials like fried chicken and DALLAS Consortium of tomato pie. Jill Bates leads the Parmigiano Reg- pastry operation at giano this summer. CHICAGO Fearings Restaurant, Cathy, who is the Mary Abbott Hess was honored with The Ritz-Carlton, global cheese buyer Simmons College Lifetime Achieve- Dallas. She recently for Whole Foods ment Award at the 50th Reunion of received multiple Market, was also the Class of 1964. At the reunion Mary awards and media named ambassador announced the release of the of her recognition, includ- Jill Bates of Parmigiano Reg- ninth book, Portion Photos of Popular ing Hottest Chef giano in the U.S. by Cathy Strange Foods, Second Edition, now published by in Dallas by Eater, Best Pastry Chef by the Consortium of Culinary Nutrition Publishing. CraveDFW and headlines from The the Modena region. Carrie Nahabedian Dallas Morning News, Food & Wine, Carla Williams, was the guest chef D Magazine, The Advocate, and Texas Auguste Escoffier on a September Monthly. School of Culi- Silversea cruise from Paula Lambert was featured in the nary Arts, won the Venice, where she August issue of Wine Spectator (about American Lamb hosted a lunch at her role as a leader in the development Board’s Grills Gone the Hotel Cipriani, of artisanal cheese in the U.S.) and on to Athens for a Wild “Lamb On the Carla Williams “CEO,” a KERA (PBS) television and Grill, Pinot On The farewell luncheon. Carrie Nahabedian radio series hosted by Lee Cullum. The Patio” photo contest with J. Lohr Vine- She was one of the show highlights Texas chief executives yards & Wines. Her prize: a September featured women chefs during an October exploring what it trip for two to the 2014 Sunset Magazine luncheon at the Ritz-Carlton, Laguna takes to make a Savor the Central Coast Food and Wine Niguel, for Fortune Magazine’s “Most company successful. Powerful Women in the World” Summit. Festival in San Luis Obispo, California., Renie Steves Nancy Rodriguez, founder of Food BOSTON served as a judge Marketing Support Services, Inc., a lead- Mary Ann Esposito, celebrated the silver for BRIT’s (Bo- ing product-design firm specializing in tanical Research anniversary of her show, “Ciao Italia.” inspired food and beverage innovation, At 25 seasons on PBS, it is the longest, Institute of Texas) is celebrating the company’s 30th anni- 2014 International continuously running televised cook- versary. The anniversary event, celebrat- Renie Steves ing show. She is also spokesperson for Award of Excellence ing 30 deliciously innovative years, was in Sustainable Winegrowing. The top Backyard Farms and Filippo Berio Olive attended by 150 guests. 26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International honor in this competition went to Lange in Lawrence Durrell’s Avignon Quintet” at ST. LOUIS Twins Family Winery and Vineyards of Lodi, the conference of the International Lawrence Catherine Neville, cre- California. Applications are currently being Durrell Society in Vancouver in May. Her ator of Feast magazine submitted for 2015. www.brit.org. Photo by research focused on sources for the British (www.feastmagazine. Lisa Stewart. author’s depiction of the cuisine of southern com), expanded the Wendy Timson France, including his friendship with the magazine’s page count received the National British food writer Elizabeth David. and its distribution to 150,000 throughout Member of the Year LONDON Catherine Neville Award at the National the states of Missouri, Chantal Coady, founder of Rococo Choco- Illinois and Kansas in Association of Cater- lates and founding member of the Academy ing Executives (NACE) October. Emmy-winning “Feast TV,” which of Chocolate, has been made an officer of airs on local PBS affiliates, will also see dis- Experience Conference the OBE (Order of the British Empire) in 2014 in Baltimore This tribution expand across the Midwest. Wendy Timson the 2014 Queen’s Birthday Honours List. prestigious honor recog- Chantal was recently awarded the Grenada SAN ANTONIO nizes her contributions Ruby Award for outstanding contribution to Bunny Becker won Double Gold, 95 to the industry and to NACE. Wendy was the business development of Grenada where points, with her Becker Vineyards 2013 also named one of the Top 25 Young Event Rococo co-owns a cocoa farm. Provençal Rosé at the 2014 San Francisco Pros to Watch by Special Events Magazine. International Wine Competition. http://specialevents.com/julyaugust-2014#1 Pervin Todiwala, co-founder and operations director of Café Spice Namasté, Mr Todiwa- Bonnie Walker and John Griffin traveled HAWAII la’s Kitchen, and The Park Cafe in Victoria the Lone Star State to write their new book, Kaiulani Cowell, chef/ Park East, was awarded a 100 World of Dif- Barbecue Lover’s Texas: Restaurants, Markets, owner of Kaiulani ference Award for Entrepreneurship by The Recipes & Traditions, (Globe Pequot Press, Spices, won first place International Alliance for Women (TIAW). July 2014). The book is a guide toT exas- in the savory category The worldwide organization of professional style barbecue and includes entertaining lists, at the Moana Hotel 6th women and women’s networks supports the barbecue recipes, and educational barbecue Annual Mangoes at the economic empowerment and advancement sidebars. Moana Festival with her of women. Julia Celeste Rosenfeld Curry Fried Rice with Kaiulani Cowell LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY celebrated the release Mangoes. “I love spices of Texas Hill Country because they add a layer of flavor to food Patti Londre announces the date of her seventh Camp Bloga- Cuisine: Flavors from and have a wealth of health benefits as well.” the Cabernet Grill Texas www.kaispices.com way Bootcamp for Food and Recipe Bloggers, Wine Country Restau- HOUSTON May 1–3, 2015, taking rant (Creative Noggin Press, 2014). The book Julie Hettiger-Nelson collaborated with place in the sunny local Julia Celeste Rosenfeld Terry Thompson Anderson of redericks-F mountains of Southern marks the freelance burg, Texas, on her latest book, Texas On The California. Registration writer’s first cookbook collaboration.I n ad- Table (University of Texas Press, October, opens in January. www. dition to 131 recipes, the cookbook features 2014). The compilation includes farmers, CampBlogaway.com. beautiful images of Texas Hill Country farmers, ranchers, cheesemakers, and distillers. vintners, cheesemakers, bakers, and chefs Patti Londre who create the flavors that defineT exas cui- MIAMI www.cabernetgrill.com. Jen Karetnick’s Mango cookbook (Univer- sine. The book will be featured at the Texas SAN FRANCISCO sity Press of Florida), released in October, Book Festival in Austin. Amy Hoopes contains more than 100 delicious recipes fea- , Ex- Sandra Alonzo Shafer turing mango, both original and those from ecutive Vice President, serves on the Culinary award-winning Miami chefs. In addition, Global Sales, Wente Institute LeNôtre (CIL) Jen’s full-length book of poetry, Brie Season, Family Estates, was Advisory Board, which comprising more than 60 poems on the honored in Direct Mar- provides advice and subjects of food and drink, will be published keting News’ 2014 list of guidance to manage- by White Violet Press this fall. “40 Under 40,” which ment steering the future recognizes the talents Amy Hoopes actions of the CIL. She NEW YORK and contributions of Sandra Alonzo Shafer also serves on the Latina Melanie Young’s book, Getting Things Off My young, standout marketers whose work has Leadership Circle Board, American Heart Chest: A Survivor’s Guide To Staying Fearless left a significant mark on their organizations, Association, to educate, empower and equip and Fabulous in the Face clients and the industry as a whole. Houston Latinas with lifesaving information of Breast Cancer (Cedar SEATTLE about heart disease and stroke prevention. Fork, Inc., 2013), won Leslie Mackie, founder of Macrina Bakery Yvonne Sternes accepted a position at The the 2014 International Book Award for Cancer & Cafe and chair of Seattle’s Green Tables Art Institute of Houston as pastry chef in- Committee, is one of three co-chairs of structor. Previously she was the Pastry Chef Health Topics. Melanie’s second book, Fearless the newly formed King County Kitchen for Rice University. She graduated from the Cabinet, a Local Food Initiative designed to Culinary Institute Alain & Marie LeNôtre, Fabulous You—Lessons on Living Life on Your get more locally grown, healthy, and afford- Houston. Melanie Young Terms, comes out in able food to kitchen tables and restaurants. Merrianne Timko Beverly , presented the lecture November. She is completing her certification Seattle Chapter Executive Director, Gruber “French Cuisine and the Lure of Provence as a wellness coach. www.melanieyoung.com , also serves on the committee.

FALL Quarterly 2014 27 Deba Wegner has been working with Mary Beth Albright’s blog for Na- Sheilah Kaufman was invited by The David R. Evans and Associates to pro- tional Geographic, “How Drones Will Library of Congress to participate in the duce An American Dream: Opportuni- Change the Way You Eat,” was voted 2014 National Book ties and Upward Mobility in the World one of Time’s Top Five Best Ideas of Festival at the Wash- of Hospitality, which identifies inspir- the Day on July ington Convention ing local restaurant and winery success 23. It went viral Center. She spoke stories to be profiled in four-minute pro- and got 18,000 on Turkish cuisine motional videos. Thoa Nguyen, owner Likes on Face- and presented a of Chinoise Sushi Bar & Asian Grill and book. The blog cooking demonstra- Wabi-Sabi Sushi Bar & Restaurant, is told how drones tion. She is the co- featured as one of the hospitality success could deliver food author of A Taste of Sheilah Kaufman stories. and monitor food Turkish Cuisine and Jamie Peha produced the seventh an- production on the The Turkish Cookbook: Regional Recipes Mary Beth Albright nual Wine Rocks ground. http:// and Stories (Interlink Pub Group, 2012) Seattle event, theplate.nation- with Nur Ilkin. which raised more algeographic.com/2014/07/23/how- Nora Pouillon was profiled in a one- than $5,000 for drones-will-change-the-way-you-eat/ page article in Washingtonian Magazine the University Dis- Marjorie Meek-Bradley, executive about her pioneering work in the organic trict Food Bank. chef of Ripple and Roofers Union, led movement. Nora opened Restaurant Susan Neel (Mc- Ripple to the RAMMY awards. Ripple Nora in Washington’s Dupont Circle Crea Wines) and was named Upscale Casual Restaurant area in 1979. In 1999, it became the first Rose Ann Finkel of the Year and Best Wine Program at certified-organic estaurantr in the United (Pike Brewing Jamie Peha the Restaurant Association of Metro- States. She is active on many environ- Co.) sampled their politan Washington’s RAMMY awards mental and conservation boards. wines and microbrews for the crowd of ceremony in June. Robyn Webb won the Independent Danielle Custer 700. distributed locally Drew Faulkner was a guest on Book Publishers Association (IBPA) Ben- sourced popsicles and ice-cream sand- WAMU’s The Kojo NnamdiS how in jamin Franklin Silver Medal Award for wiches from her new food cart—Pop-up July, in a segment Health & Fitness for her 16th cookbook, Bike Pops. Jamie also helped to create, called, “Can’t the Smart Shopper Diabetes Cookbook: and serves as a contributing writer and Stand the Heat— Strategies for Stress-Free Meals from the co-editor, of Woodinville Wine Country Cool Summer Deli Counter, Freezer, Salad Bar, and Gro- magazine. Cooking.” She cery Shelves (American Diabetes Associa- Rose Ann Finkel, co-owner of Pike was repeatedly tion, 2013). The award was presented in Brewing Co., celebrates the company’s referred to as the May in New York City. 25th anniversary on October 17. The Les Dames DC CiCi Williamson retired August 8 after brewery’s Pike Kilt Lifter won a silver president! http:// 26 years as a food safety specialist for medal at the World Beer Champion- thekojonnam- Drew Faulkner the U.S. Depart- ships and its Pike Derby Lager won the dishow.org/ ment of Agricul- Best in the Northwest award at the U.S. shows/2014-07-23/cant-stand-heat- ture (USDA). She Beer Tasting Championships and will and-stuck-kitchen/transcript wrote and designed also compete for the Grand Champion Aviva Goldfarb appeared on Katie several hundred Lager award. Couric’s ABC-TV talk show Katie in food safety fact WASHINGTON July to discuss the importance of fam- sheets, press releases, Stacey Adams, owner of Tastings ily dinner. She offered tips for prepar- blogs, podcasts, and ing quick and delicious meals and publications posted Gourmet Market in Annapolis, won her CiCi Williamson first major golf tournament at the PGA demonstrated an easy recipe for Spiced at www.fsis.usda. Charity Golf Tournament in Hartford, Tossed Shrimp with Parmesan Grits. gov. She also won Connecticut. This event raised more www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0hcyxD two prestigious Secretary of Agriculture than $30K for First Tee and Special 5F7U&feature=youtu.be awards and helped more than 100,000 Olympics. Carla Hall is featured in Good House- callers at the toll-free USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline. Marianne Ali was honored at the White keeping magazine’s House in June at a ceremony naming July 2014 issue. JAMES BEARD DOINGS her as among the first Champions of The eight-page Carrie Nahabedian (Chicago) will be Change honorees. The program was spread, “A Taste cooking with friends Emeril Lagasse, created as an opportunity for the White of Dixie,” offers Norman Van Aken, Tetsuya Wakuda House to acknowledge individuals doing a tour of Carla’s and Mindy Segal at The Four Seasons extraordinary things to empower and hometown, Nash- Restaurant in New York City on No- inspire members of their communi- ville, Tennessee. vember 14th for the James Beard Foun- ties. www.dccentralkitchen.org/dcck- Also, Carla’s dation dinner honoring the legacy and training-director-receives-white-house- recipe for Quinoa Carla Hall memory of their great longtime friend, honor/ Salad with Spring Charlie Trotter, to fund a scholarship Vegetables was included in the July in his name. 2014 issue of Food & Wine magazine.

28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International in memoriam SMITHSONIAN'S go and what to try (or what to avoid!). KITCHEN Katie Ann Rosenblatt (San Diego) CABINET Katie epitomized the term “foodie”—she and Katie Ann Rosenblatt (nee Yoelin) died peacefully at Nat always kept current on the latest restaurants Five Dames home in Cardiff-by-the-Sea, California, on June 21, and culinary trends. She had an adventurous and were chosen by after a private battle with cancer. She is survived by curious palate that was often translated into her the Smithsonian her husband, Nathan Rosenblatt; her beloved poodle, Festivities events as well as at home. In keeping with National Mu- Zoe; and other relatives. her love of cuisine, Katie was an exceptional home seum of American Katie was born in Denver, chef and admired hostess who loved entertaining History for the Colorado, and met the love of in the home she and Natmade so beautiful and Kitchen Cabinet her life, Nat Rosenblatt, there welcoming. advisory board in 1976. After moving to San Katie loved the arts, and especially theater. She of distinguished Diego, Katie began a 25-year and Nat’s trips to New York had legendary theater leading culinary career with Festivities Cater- schedules. Katie was a generous, kind-hearted, experts to help the ing & Special Events, where joyous, no-nonsense person. Tenacious and strong- museum shape she served as event coordina- willed, Katie had a firm opinion about most things and expand its tor. She was respected and and was not afraid to share her perspective. She also research, collec- cherished by the hospitality had a great sense of humor and a very dry wit. tions, programs, professionals with whom she worked. Katie loved In lieu of flowers, Katie’s family requests that and exhibitions her career and was passionate about her clients; she donations be made to Scrumptious Schoolyards, c/o related to food conceived and executed some of the most fabulous CardiffS chool, 1888 Montgomery Ave., Cardiff, and beverage events ever held in San Diego. CA 92007. Scrumptious Schools is a nonprofit or- Katie lived her life to the fullest and embraced the ganization that runs the garden program at Cardiff adventures she shared with Nat. They travelled ex- School, across the street from Katie’s home. Katie tensively throughout Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, supported the program’s mission of helping school the Middle East and Central America. If you were children develop the same appreciation for edibles planning a trip, Katie could always tell you where to that she enjoyed.

was one with the chocolate.” Elaine Gonzalez (Chicago) Her chocolate works of art have been featured in 1935 - 2014 museums and leading magazines and newspapers Lydia Botham worldwide. As a guest chocolate chef, she appeared on By Julie Chernoff many television shows and national radio programs. history. Cho- With tremendous sadness, the Chicago Chapter For almost 20 years, Elaine led tours to Mexico, sen were Lydia reports the death on July 25, of beloved longtime exploring cacao plantations in Tabasco, observ- Botham (Min- member Elaine Gonzalez, who died in Northbrook, ing chocolate traditions in Oaxaca, and studying nesota), executive Illinois, surrounded by her loving family. ancient rituals in Mayan and Zapotec villages. director, Land Although self-taught, Elaine She lectured on those subjects at the Smithsonian O’Lakes Foun- was a master chocolatier, and Institution and the Folger Shakespeare Library in dation; Susan her consulting firm, Chocolate Washington, D.C., The ieldF Museum and New- Westmoreland Artistry, begun in 1983, was berry Library in Chicago. (New York), food an industry trendsetter. She Elaine received numerous awards including the director, Good was the author of two semi- prestigious Henry J. Bornhofft emorialM for out- Housekeeping; and nal books on the subject: The standing instructional contributions to the confec- three Washington Art of Chocolate: Techniques tionery industry (the first woman recipient) and Dames—Lynne and Recipes for Simply Spec- the title of Master Chocolatier Emeritus, conferred Breaux, past tacular Desserts and Confections upon her by Retail Confectioners International. She president, Restau- (Chronicle Books, 1998) and was also awarded the National Kettle Award, Master rant Association Chocolate Artistry: Techniques for Molding, Decorating, Chocolatier. Metropolitan and Designing With Chocolate (Contemporary Books, A Northwestern University graduate with a B.A. in Washington, 1985). She was also a major contributor to the candy English, Spanish, and Secondary Education, Elaine Pati Jinich, chef chapter of The Joy of Cooking (Scribner, 1997). was an Indiana native. She was strongly influenced and host, Pati's Noted for transforming chocolate into edible by her mother, the late Mary Garcia, who was also a Mexican Table; bowls, plates, ornaments, flowers, and much more, cooking teacher. Her late husband, Pepe Gonzalez, and Ris Lacoste, Elaine received the candy industry’s highest honor, died last year. She is survived by her son, Jay, (Lisa chef/owner of RIS being inducted into the Candy Hall of Fame in Beth) Gonzalez and daughters Carla Gonzalez- restaurant, Wash- 2006. She was also a gifted and well-respected Pister (Mike) and Lisa-Gonzalez-Torre (Alex). ington. Sign up cooking teacher who taught her first chocolate Donations can be made to the Les Turner ALS for the food news- class at the behest of the late Elaine Sherman, Foundation (www.lesturnerals.org). The Chicago letter at http://bit. founder of our Chicago Chapter. Chapter is planning a chocolate program in her ly/1jFkSHe In a recent interview with the Chicago Tribune’s memory for early next year. Bill Daley, Ina Pinkney recalled that Elaine She was a lovely woman, inside and out, and will “was an artist and took chocolate to new places. be greatly missed. Everything she did had this artistry. She was more Editor’s note: Elaine taught an excellent breakout comfortable with that ingredient than anyone I session, “The Art of Chocolate,” at the 2004 DEIL ever saw with any other ingredient. It was like she Conference held in Chicago.

FALL Quarterly 2014 29 California Figs Simply Beautiful | Simply Delicious

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30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International LDEI LOGO ITEMS! Wear your LDEI pride for all to see with one of the great merchandise items available in our online store. We have baseball caps, embroidered patches, lapel pins, and silver cuff Submission Guidelines bracelets. We even have a special program with Tiffany & Co. for a couple of very special Deadlines 2015 WINTER ISSUE - NOVEMBER 7, 2014 logo jewelry items. 2015 SPRING ISSUE - JANUARY 10, 2015 Visit www.ldei.org to access the LDEI online 2015 SUMMER ISSUE - APRIL 10, 2015 store. Click on the Members Only link in the up- 2015 FALL ISSUE - AUGUST 1, 2015 per right-hand corner. If you have never logged in before, there are simple-to-use instructions Photography/Images Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum in the front of your membership directory. Once resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they you are logged in, there is an Online Store link meet resolution requirements. Do not send photos taken off the Internet on the top navigation bar that will take you to or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals the merchandise (hats, pins, bracelets, and in photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo patches). The Tiffany & Co. offer can be found by credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH clicking the Documents Icon in the center of the CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED. Members Only page, then on Special Offers. Member Milestones The merchandise is always available and ships LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 within a few days of ordering. If you have any words about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, questions, contact the LDEI staff at [email protected]. to appear in print. You may email a quality headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not accepted. Email your Member Milestone and photo to Member Milestone Editor, Dottie Koteski, at [email protected] by the deadline listed above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of Dames networking at conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to this section. Note: Due to space constraints, only two Member Milestones will be published per Dame per year. Chapter News Navy Cap with White Embroidery $18.00 CHAPTER XX (By, the submitter's name, office, or title, if any). Each chapter may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may White Cap with Navy Embroidery $18.00 include photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; contact the editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not conforming to this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at [email protected] by the deadline date. Entries received after this date may appear in the following issue. Note: Chapter News and Member Milestones may be dispersed through LDEI social-media channels, as well Silver Cuff Bracelet $175.00 as in print and online. E-News This bimonthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an email contact, date, time, and cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking classes, or tours. You will receive a reminder "Call for E-News" email. Respond to E-News Editor, Shelley Pedersen, at [email protected]

Embroidered Patch Blue $5.00 Embroidered Patch White $5.00 POSTCARD VIEWS OF THE Upcoming GLOBAL CULINARY INITIATIVE in the If your chapter is involved with culinary winter issue programs and community activities that cross cultural barriers and exemplify the Complete coverage of spirit of the Global Culinary Initiative, send the 2014 LDEI Annual a 200-word description of your event with Conference in Boston. photos. Send inquiries to sslack363@gmail. com or [email protected]. Lapel Pin $10.00

FALL Quarterly 2014 31 Atlanta PREsorted Austin First Class Birmingham u s Postage Boston P.O. Box 4961 paid British Columbia, Canada Louisville, KY 40204 Charleston Louisville KY Chicago Permit #1051 Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America London, England Los Angeles/Orange County Miami Minnesota Monterey Bay Area New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle St. Louis Washington

The Best Begins in Boston Don’t Miss It!

Hello Dames Boston, Higher Ground Farm and England Cider, Spirits, and Beer Harpoon Brewery, Boston’s North with Brandy Rand; and Shoot- By now, you should have received End, Chinatown, and Verrill Farm. ing Cold with Ellen Callaway will your conference brochure in the mail and had time to review what Then there are the dine-arounds — energize you. These are just a sam- will be happening in Boston in just WOW! pling of what is offered at the 2014 a few weeks. The Boston Chapter is Not to be missed is our keynote LDEI Annual Conference. excited to be your host city and is es- speaker, Sara Moulton, followed So book your flight now and come pecially proud of the pre-conference by an impressive line-up of women join us. We're waiting to greet you. tours and dine-arounds that await speaking on food and the media in See you soon! you on Thursday, October 30th.I t a New England-style town meeting. will be difficult to decide among Sessions such as The BostonT ea Judy Mattera and Joan Sweeney tours of Beacon Hill, Ye Olde Party with Cynthia Gold; New Conference Co-Chairs