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Expeditions & Treks 2008/2009
V4362_JG_Exped Cover_AW 1/5/08 15:44 Page 1 Jagged Globe NEW! Expeditions & Treks www.jagged-globe.co.uk Our new website contains detailed trip itineraries 2008 for the expeditions and treks contained in this brochure, photo galleries and recent trip reports. / 2009 You can also book securely online and find out about new trips and offers by subscribing to our email newsletter. Jagged Globe The Foundry Studios, 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield S3 8EN United Kingdom Expeditions Tel: 0845 345 8848 Email: [email protected] Web: www.jagged-globe.co.uk & Treks Cover printed on Take 2 Front Cover: Offset 100% recycled fibre Mingma Temba Sherpa. sourced only from post Photo: Simon Lowe. 2008/2009 consumer waste. Inner Design by: pages printed on Take 2 www.vividcreative.com Silk 75% recycled fibre. © 2007 V4362 V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:10 Page 2 Ama Dablam Welcome to ‘The Matterhorn of the Himalayas.’ Jagged Globe Ama Dablam dominates the Khumbu Valley. Whether you are trekking to Everest Base Camp, or approaching the mountain to attempt its summit, you cannot help but be astounded by its striking profile. Here members of our 2006 expedition climb the airy south Expeditions & Treks west ridge towards Camp 2. See page 28. Photo: Tom Briggs. The trips The Mountains of Asia 22 Ama Dablam: A Brief History 28 Photo: Simon Lowe Porter Aid Post Update 23 Annapurna Circuit Trek 30 Teahouses of Nepal 23 Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 30 The Seven Summits 12 Everest Base Camp Trek 24 Lhakpa Ri & The North Col 31 The Seven Summits Challenge 13 -
Artur Hajzer, 1962–2013
AAC Publications Artur Hajzer, 1962–2013 Artur Hajzer, one of Poland’s best high-altitude climbers from the “golden age,” was killed while retreating from Gasherbrum I on July 7, 2013. He was 51. Born on June 28, 1962, in the Silesia region of Poland, Artur graduated from the University of Katowice with a degree in cultural studies. His interests in music, history, and art remained important throughout his life. He started climbing as a boy and soon progressed to increasingly difficult routes in the Tatras and the Alps, in both summer and winter, in preparation for his real calling: Himalayan climbing. He joined the Katowice Mountain Club, along with the likes of Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzysztof Wielicki, Ryszard Pawlowski, and Janusz Majer. His Himalayan adventures began at the age of 20, with expeditions to the Rolwaling Himal, to the Hindu Kush, and to the south face of Lhotse. Although the Lhotse expedition was unsuccessful, it was the beginning of his climbing partnership with Jerzy Kukuczka. Together they did the first winter ascent of Annapurna in 1987, a new route up the northeast face of Manaslu, and a new route on the east ridge of Shishapangma. Artur climbed seven 8,000-meter peaks and attempted the south face of Lhotse three times, reaching 8,300 meters on the formidable face. He even concocted a plan to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks in one year, a scheme that was foiled by Pakistani officials when they refused him the required permits. Artur proved he was more than a climber when he organized the massively complicated “thunderbolt” rescue operation on Everest’s West Ridge, a disaster in which five members of a 10-member Polish team were killed. -
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the Project
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the project We are 3 of Snow Leopards, who commit the hardest anoxic high altitude ascents and perform freeride from the tops of the highest mountains on Earth (8000+). We do professional one of a kind filming on the utmost altitude. THE TRICKIEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH NO BOTTLED OXYGEN CHALLENGES TO HUMAN AND NATURE NO EXTERIOR SUPPORT 8000ERS FREERIDE FROM THE TOPS MOVIES ALONE WITH NATURE FREERIDE DESCENTS 5 3 SNOW LEOS Why the project is so unique? PROFESSIONAL FILMING IN THE HARDEST CONDITIONS ❖ Higher than 8000+ m ❖ Under challenging efforts ❖ Without bottled oxygen & exterior support ❖ Severe weather conditions OUTDOOR PROJECT-OF-THE-YEAR “CRYSTAL PEAK 2017” AWARD “Death zone freeride” project got the “Crystal Peak 2017” award in “Outdoor project-of-the-year” nomination. It is comparable with “Oscar” award for Russian outdoor sphere. Team ANTON VITALY CARLALBERTO PUGOVKIN LAZO CIMENTI Snow Leopard. Snow Leopard. Leader The first Italian Snow Leopard. MC in mountaineering. Manaslu of “Mountain territory” club. Specializes in a ski mountaineering. freeride 8163m. High altitude Ski-mountaineer. Participant cameraman. of more than 20 high altitude expeditions. Mountains of the project Manaslu Annapurna Nanga–Parbat Everest K2 8163m 8091m 8125m 8848m 8611m The highest mountains on Earth ❖ 8027 m Shishapangma ❖ 8167 m Dhaulagiri I ❖ 8035 m Gasherbrum II (K4) ❖ 8201 m Cho Oyu ❖ 8051 m Broad Peak (K3) ❖ 8485 m Makalu ❖ 8080 m Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, K5) ❖ 8516 m Lhotse ❖ 8091 m Annapurna ❖ 8586 m Kangchenjunga ❖ 8126 m Nanga–Parbat ❖ 8614 m Chogo Ri (K2) ❖ 8156 m Manaslu ❖ 8848 m Chomolungma (Everest) Mountains that we climbed on MANASLU September 2017 The first and unique freeride descent from the altitude 8000+ meters among Russian sportsmen. -
Pakistan 1995
LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DAVID HAMILTON Pakistan 1995 Thanks are due to Xavier Eguskitza, Tafeh Mohammad andAsem Mustafa Awan for their help in providing information. ast summer in the Karakoram was one of generally unsettled weather L conditions. Intermittent bad weather was experienced from early June and a marked deterioration occurred from mid-August. The remnants of heavy snow cover from a late spring fall hampered early expeditions, while those arriving later experienced almost continuous precipitation. In spite of these difficulties there was an unusually high success rate on both the 8000m and lesser peaks. Pakistan Government statistics show that 59 expe ditions from 16 countries received permits to attempt peaks above 6000m. Of the 29 expeditions to 8000m peaks 17 were successful. On the lower peaks II of the 29 expeditions succeeded. There were 14 fatalities (9 on 8000m peaks) among the 384 foreign climbers; a Pakistani cook and porter also died in separate incidents. The action of the Pakistan Government in limiting the number of per mits issued for each of the 8000m peaks to six per season has led to the practice of several unconnected expeditions 'sharing' a permit, an un fortunate development which may lead to complicated disputes with the Pakistani authorities in the future. Despite the growing commercialisation of high-altitude climbing, there were only four overtly commercial teams on the 8000m peaks (three on Broad Peak and one on Gasherbrum II). However, it is clear that many places on 'non-commercial' expeditions were filled by experienced climbers able to supply substantial funds from their own, or sponsors', resources. -
K2 Base Camp and Gondogoro La Trek
K2 And Gondogoro La Trek, Pakistan This is a trekking holiday to K2 and Concordia in the Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan followed by crossing the Gondogoro La to Hushe Valley to complete a superb mountaineering journey. Group departures See trip’s date & cost section Holiday overview Style Trek Accommodation Hotels, Camping Grade Strenuous Duration 23 days from Islamabad to Islamabad Trekking / Walking days On Trek: 15 days Min/Max group size 1 / 8. Guaranteed to run Meeting point Joining in Islamabad, Pakistan Max altitude 5,600m, Gondogoro Pass Private Departures & Tailor Made itineraries available Departures Group departures 2021 Dates: 20 Jun - 12 Jul 27 Jun - 19 Jul 01 Jul - 23 Jul 04 Jul - 26 Jul 11 Jul - 02 Aug 18 Jul - 09 Aug 25 Jul - 16 Aug 01 Aug - 23 Aug 08 Aug - 30 Aug 15 Aug - 06 Sep 22 Aug - 13 Sep 29 Aug - 20 Sep Will these trips run? All our k2 and Gondogoro la treks are guaranteed to run as schedule. Unlike some other companies, our trips will take place with a minimum of 1 person and maximum of 8. Best time to do this Trek Pakistan is blessed with four season weather, spring, summer, autumn and winter. This tour itinerary is involved visiting places where winter is quite harsh yet spring, summer and autumns are very pleasant. We recommend to do this Trek between June and September. Group Prices & discounts We have great range of Couple, Family and Group discounts available, contact us before booking. K2 and Gondogoro trek prices are for the itinerary starting from Islamabad to Skardu K2 - Gondogoro Pass - Hushe Valley and back to Islamabad. -
Transport Infrastructure Development, Tourism and Livelihood Strategies an Analysis of Isolated Communities of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Lincoln University Digital Thesis Copyright Statement The digital copy of this thesis is protected by the Copyright Act 1994 (New Zealand). This thesis may be consulted by you, provided you comply with the provisions of the Act and the following conditions of use: you will use the copy only for the purposes of research or private study you will recognise the author's right to be identified as the author of the thesis and due acknowledgement will be made to the author where appropriate you will obtain the author's permission before publishing any material from the thesis. Transport Infrastructure Development, Tourism and Livelihood Strategies An Analysis of Isolated Communities of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan Asif Hussain A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at Lincoln University New Zealand December 2019 i Abstract Geographically isolated communities around the world are dependent upon the limited assets in local subsistence economies to generate livelihoods. Locally available resources shape and give identity to unique cultural activities that guarantee individual, family and community livelihood sustainability. The social structure provides community relationship networks, which ensure access to, and availability of, resources over long periods. Resources are utilised in ways that reduces vulnerability, stresses and shocks while ensuring long-term resilience. Preparedness and adaptation are embedded into cultural memory, enabling communities to survive in isolated, remote and harsh conditions. Communities’ cultural memories, storytelling, traditional knowledge, interdependence and unwritten cultural norms that build resilience to sustain cultures that have limited interactions with the outside world. This thesis aims to investigate the consequences of transport infrastructure development, mainly of roads, on livelihood strategies of isolated communities in a tourism context in Gilgit- Baltistan, Pakistan. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Epilogue The period 1975–90 was indeed a formative and unique period in Australian Himalayan climbing. Chapter 29 looked forward from 1990 and foreshadowed some significant shifts in the nature of mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia that would mark 1990 as a turning point. Now, 20 years later, many of those projections of change have developed into well-established trends. Perhaps the most dominant of all the trends has been the move to commercial expeditions. In the 1970s and 1980s, most Himalayan expeditions were largely do- it-yourself affairs—from initial planning, obtaining a permit and organising the equipment to planning the logistics and arranging the transport from Australia. And all of this time-consuming work was expended before the team even reached Asia and began the walk into the hills to eventually tackle the mountain. From the last decade of the twentieth century there has been a pronounced shift to commercial expeditions. For example, in a survey of Australian Himalayan mountaineering for the period 2001–03, nearly half of the expeditions covered (16 of 33) were commercial.1 The trend is probably due to the rising wealth in general of Australians coupled with the increasing time constraints as contemporary society becomes faster paced, allowing less time for planning and organisation. In addition, the Himalayan region has become more accessible and the number of commercial operators in the big mountains has grown sharply. Two contrasting styles of commercial expedition are important to distinguish. At one extreme lies the fully guided expedition, in which the client is completely taken care of—from armchair to summit. -
Appalachia Alpina
Appalachia Volume 71 Number 2 Summer/Fall 2020: Unusual Pioneers Article 16 2020 Alpina Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.dartmouth.edu/appalachia Part of the Nonfiction Commons Recommended Citation (2020) "Alpina," Appalachia: Vol. 71 : No. 2 , Article 16. Available at: https://digitalcommons.dartmouth.edu/appalachia/vol71/iss2/16 This In Every Issue is brought to you for free and open access by Dartmouth Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Appalachia by an authorized editor of Dartmouth Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Alpina A semiannual review of mountaineering in the greater ranges The 8,000ers The major news of 2019 was that Nirmal (Nims) Purja, from Nepal, climbed all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in under seven months. The best previous time was a bit under eight years. Records are made to be broken, but rarely are they smashed like this. Here, from the Kathmandu Post, is the summary: Annapurna, 8,091 meters, Nepal, April 23 Dhaulagiri, 8,167 meters, Nepal, May 12 Kangchenjunga, 8,586 meters, Nepal, May 15 Everest, 8,848 meters, Nepal, May 22 Lhotse, 8,516 meters, Nepal, May 22 Makalu, 8,481 meters, Nepal, May 24 Nanga Parbat, 8,125 meters, Pakistan, July 3 Gasherbrum I, 8,080 meters, Pakistan, July 15 Gasherbrum II, 8,035 meters, Pakistan, July 18 K2, 8,611 meters, Pakistan, July 24 Broad Peak, 8,047 meters, Pakistan, July 26 Cho Oyu 8,201 meters, China/Nepal, September 23 Manaslu, 8,163 meters, Nepal, September 27 Shishapangma, 8,013 meters, China, October 29 He reached the summits of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu in an astounding three days. -
Karakoram 1988
Karakoram 1988 PAUL NUNN (Plates 105, 106) The summer seems to have been marked by relatively good early weather for high snow peaks, but conditions were poor for high-altitude climbing in July and early August, causing disappointment on K2 to all parties and some problems elsewhere. Nevertheless, there was a continued trend towards creative ascents of new routes, on peaks varying from just below 8000m to small technical and not-so-technical mountains. The year began with the Polish-British-Canadian first attempt on K2 in winter. Bad weather caused immense difficulty in getting equipment to Base Camp, which delayed matters greatly. Andrzej Zawada, veteran of so many winter schemes, led the n-member team. They faced high winds and temperatures down to - 50°C. A high point of 7350m on the Abruzzi ridge was reached, but mostly the conditions seem to have been too bad to allow much progress. Roger Mear, Mike Woolridge and John Barry took part, though John did not go to Base Camp and Mike was ill. The first winter ascent of Broad Peak was something of a consolation prize. Maciej Berbeka and Alek Lwow set out on 3 March on an alpine-style ascent of the ordinary route. On 6 March Lwow decided to stay at a camp at 7700m after the exhausting struggle to reach that point through deep snow. Berbeka reached the top that night at 6pm and got down to 7900m before being forced to stop. Next morning he rejoined Lwow in poor weather and they made the descent safely. Both suffered frostbite. -
Bringing Humidity and Dust from the Arabian Peninsula. for Our Next
402 T HE A MERICAN A L PINE J OURNA L , 2007 C L IMB S AND E XPEDI T ION S : C HINA 403 China bringing humidity and dust from the Arabian Peninsula. For our next attempt, which took place on TIEN SHAN the 9th, we moved the top camp to 6,500m but still had to turn On August 20 Nikolay Dobrjaev, back from the upper slopes of the Anatoliy Djuliy, Aleksey Kirienko, dome at ca 7,000m, when visibil- and Vladimir Leonenko made the ity dropped to zero. The next day, first ascent of the nearly 2,500m-high we were able to reach the foot of south ridge of Peak Voennih Topogra- the rock ridge before the weather fov (Army Topographers, 6,873m) east deteriorated and then proceed of Pobeda. They also made the first traverse of the various Vizbora summits (5,853m-5,960m) to the top, disregarding the poor on the south ridge of Pobeda East. A full account of these climbs and an overview of this area’s visibility. The last 200m involved Climbing above a dust storm on the first ascent of Kokodag. Lev Ioffe potential appears earlier in the Journal. unstable rock with unreliable pro- tection. We reached the summit late in the afternoon of the 10th. Descent was quick: by August KUN LUN 13 we were back in Kashgar. LEV IOFFE, USA Western Kun Lun, Kokodag, first ascent. Kokodag is the summit on Aksai Chin, north summit, second ascent, southeast route. As reported in AAJ 2006, p. 439, Aksai the ridge extending west from Kon- Chin (7,167m: sometimes referred to as Kun Lun, as it is the highest peak in this part of Kun Lun gur and is located between Kongur Range) was climbed in 1986 and 1997 by Japanese expeditions. -
Pakistan 1999
LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DAVID HAMILTON Pakistan 1999 Thanks are due to the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism, Xavier Eguskitza, andAsem Mustafa Awanfor their help in providing information. uring the summer of 1999 weather conditions in the Karakoram were Dunexceptional. Fine weather predominated from June to early July when the mid-summer deterioration set in a little earlier than usual. Unsettled conditions continued throughout late July, August and September when spells of stable weather alternated with violent storms and heavy precipitation. Ministry of Tourism statistics show that 64 expeditions received 69 permits to climb peaks over 6000m. A total of 37 permits were issued for the five 8000m peaks, resulting in 24 teams making successful ascents. The remaining 32 permits were issued to expeditions attempting 20 different peaks in the 6000m - 8000m range. Only 12 of these resulted in success. There were seven mountaineering fatalities; two on 8000m peaks and five on 7000m peaks. There was a noticeable increase in the number of expeditions visiting Pakistan despite fears that heightened tension along the Line of Control with India would cause some groups to cancel. The 8000m peaks again attracted the largest number of climbers. However there was a significant increase in the number of expeditions attempting technically challenging routes on 7000m peaks, particularly in the Hispar and Batura areas. Unfortunately few of these teams were successful. Almost 20 groups attempted high-standard big wall climbs, mostly in the Trango and Hushe areas, with a considerable amount of success. Japanese climbers were at the forefront of innovative developments on the high peaks of the Karakoram, while climbers from the USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, Norway and the Czech Republic led the way with big wall projects. -
Jan-Vol11-141-145.Pdf
REGIONAL NOTES e KARRAR HAIDRI Final Final Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visiting Visiting Pakistan During 2009 Year Year 2009 has been a very bleak s巴ason for Mountaineering in Pakistan .The cuπent security state of 出e country country has adversely affected the inflow of Tourists in Pakistan. This year a total numb巴r of 63 teams teams originally applied for attempting various peaks but 18 withdrew 出巴 ir applications leaving 45 teams who have been gr叩ted permit to climb various peaks of their choice, 02 more teams who had been granted permit permit to climb peaks did not turn up for climbing, thus leaving just 43 teams in the field . Out of these four four teams were granted permission to climb 02 peaks each and one team to climb 03 peaks, as such overall overall 49 attempts were made to climb various p巴aks by 343 climbers including 54 climbers attempting attempting 2 peaks each thus totaling the numbers on attempting climbers to 397. Out of these 17 exp巴ditions have returned successful by putting 72 climbers on the summits of various peaks including including o4 climbers summitting 02 peaks each whereas 32 team s have returned unsuccessful. Unluckily Unluckily 03 climbers lost lives their whil巴 descending from the summit after summitting the p巴ak,02 on Nanga Parbat and 01 on G-11 wmle other 03 climbers lost their lives wmle attempting K-2, Broad Peak and Latok-1. A brief resum巴 of expeditions on various peaks is given below: K・2 (8,611m) Year Year 2009 has been an unluckily year for K-2 and Broad Peak climbers.