Clothing Practices of Pakistani Women Residing in Canada

THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA

CLOTHING PRACTICES OF PAKISTANI I^IOMEN RESIDING IN CANADA

GHAZALA SHAHEEN

A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDIES PARÎIAL F'T]LFIIMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF SCIENCE

DEPARTMEM OF CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

I^IINNIPEG, MANITOBA L976

OF ..----=.fiANllOßÂ --.-a {1ßnanlEs ''CLOTHING PRACTiCES OF PAKiSTANI l,'lOI4EN RESIDING

IN CANADA"

GHAZALA SHAHEEN

A dissertation subnlitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies of the University of Manitobu in partiut fulfillment of the requirements of the rlegree of

}4,ASTER OF SCIENCE

@ tgzo

:.-: Per¡rrissio¡¡ lus becn grantcd tt¡ tho LIB!ìARY OF TllU UNIVUR- SITY O$; MAN¡TOllA to lond or s:ll copies of tl¡is rlissertation, to the NATIONAL L¡BRARY Ot¡ CANADA to nticrul'ilm tl¡is rlissertation and to lend or setl copics of the film, and UNtVIiRSITY Mlclì,OF¡LMS to publish u¡r ubstruct of this dissèrtation

The author resstves other publicution righÊs, and neitlrer the disscrtation nor extensiw oxtracts t'rom it nruy be printed or otlrer- wisc reproduccd without thu uuthor's writtc¡r pennission. ,::::;::llj',:!?a:l Ì r:-' :.: '' ,

ABSTRACT

The purpose of this e>çloratory study was to investigate the relationship between clothing practices of Pakistani women residing in Canada and their religious commitment, agê, education, occupatíon, length of resi- place of .i.',, ,.'r1 t dence in the vJest, counËry of citizenship and : .: :: . residence in Pakistan. The relationship between clothing styles \,.üorn by Pakistani women and the styles they liked but would not \iüear \,vas also investigated. Questionnaires, received from 102 respondents rvere statistically anaLyzed. The Pearsonts correlation coefficient was used to compute the relationship between clothing styles worn and the styles they liked but would not wear. a chi-square test of independence was used to determine the relationship between cloËhing styles !üorn

and Ehe independent variables in Ehis sËudy' ¡-i, .íj ' :. '. -r:i.- t:1 .-ilhe resulCs indicate a significant relationship beËween clothing styles respondents wore and the styles Ëhey liked but would not l,úear for pantsuits, gowns, saris and sari blouses. The reasons for not wearíng the sËyles liked weïe mosËly related to modesty. Data shows thaE religious commitment, level of education, occupation, length of residence in the l,üest, countïy of citizenship l:1 : ::: I ì ::.-r:-t,l ,l

ii and place of residence in Pakistan influenced the wearing of certain types and styles of clothing. No significant relatÍonship was found between age and clothing styles worn, which was probably due to a relatively young sample. Eighty-five percent of the respondents Ìivere under thirty- five years of age. í?r.-:ì1i:::.ì

ACKNO!'TLEDGMENIS

The author T/üishes to e>(Press sincere appreciation ,,,, :.,::, to her advisor, Mrs. C. Gonzales, and to Ehe other com- ":::.:: mittee members, Mrs. M. E. TyrchniewLcz and Dr. K. Klostermaier ,.-..,,r,:. I would like Eo acknowleoge with thanks, the ,.,.,,';, assistance of Dr. B. Johnston with the statístical analysis. .,,.i,, ,-.', lit, Sincere appreciation is exEended to Dr. M. I. Morton, ". Professor and Head of the Department 'of Clothing and Tex- tiles, for her interest and encouragement. Gratitude is e>çressed to the authorrs family in Pakistan, for Eheir continug.d support Ehroughout this study and to the authorts son for his patience and toler- ance. Last, but not least, mY very personal appreciation to my husband for his perseverance, understanding and

emotional support throughout Ëhe study. :: :

l_1_t TABLE OF COIüIENIS

Page

LIST OF TABLES ...... " " " ' vii LIST OF FIGURES ...... a...."""' X

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ...... ""."""".." xi

Chapter I. IMRODUCT ION 1 SPECTFTC OBJECTTVES ...... 3

DEFTNTTTON oF TERMS ...... 4

II. REVIEI/ü OF LITERATURE ...... 7 ACC{.ILTURATION ...... 7

THE RELTGTON OF rslÁI4 ...... L2

CLOTHING RESTRICTIONS IN ISIA}'I ...... L7

CLOTHING OF THE PAKISTANI I/üCN4AN ...... 2L

III. METHODS AND PROCEDURE ...... 35 ASSUMPTIONS ...... ' . 36 I DESCRIPTION OF INSTRUMEIIIS ...... 36 Questionnaire on Clothing Styles ... -.. 37 QuesËionnaire on Religious Commitment .. 38 Personal Data Inventory ...... 39 i: :..' i:j: SELECTION OF SUBJECTS ...... 40 PRE-TEST ...... ' 4L

ADMTNTSTRATTON OF QUESTIONNATRE' . ... o. ... 42

1_V l.:r:?:' !:_::¡r

v Page

STATISTICAL ANALYSIS OF DATA ...... 44 LrMrrATroNS ...... 45 IV. FTNDTNGS AND DISCUSSION...... 46 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE SAMPLE ...... 46 Age"Respondents and Marital Status of ...... " "" "" " " ""' 46 Formal Education and Occupation of Respondents ....."".r"" '."" t"' ' 48 LengEh of Residence Abroad and CounËry oË Citizenship of RespondenËs .... " ' 49 in Paki'stan . Place of Residence Religíous Commitment of Respondents " ' 5f CLOTHING PRACTICES OF PAKISTANI üIOMEN IN THE SAi\4PLE ...... '...... 53I TYPES AND STYLES OF CLOTHING hiORN BY RESPONDENTS ...... """' """ """ 59 Relationship Between Clothing Styles Pakistani- !üomen I,,lore and the Styles They Liked but !{ould not [rlear 69 RelaËionship Between Religious Com- mitment and the TYPes añd StYles of Clothing lrlorn by Rèspondents ...... " 77 ,)::.1 Relationship Between Age and Ëhe Types and SËyleb of Clothing lrlorn by Re- spondeátS ...... " """""""" "" 81 RelaEionship Between Education and the' TyPes and Styles of Clothing trttorn by Rä^sponOents'...... """""""' ö5 the i]. .- ' Relationship Between Occupation--ano Typ"" ano Styles of Clothing lrlorn by ..- ResponOents ...... """"" Ól vi Page Relationship Between Length of Resi- dence in the lrlest ano the Types and Styles of Clothing lrlorn by Re- SpOnCentS ...... 90 Rélationship Between CiEizenship and the Types and Styles of ClothÍng lrlorn by Respondents ...... 92 Relationship Between Place of Resioence in Pakistan and the Types and Styles of Clothing l,üorn by Responoents 94 EXAT{INATTON OF HYPOTHESES ...... 96 V. SUMMARY ...... 101 RECOMMENDATTONS ...... 105 SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY ...... LO7

APPENDIXES A. qUESTIONNAIRE ...... B. LETTERS SEI{I TO RESPONDENTS ...... Lzg

C. CATEGORY ORDER FOR THE FIVE CLOTHING STYLES AND THE ORDER IN V'IHICH GARMENTS APPEARED ' IN EACH GROUP OF 25 qUESTIONNAIRES ...... 135

D. LETTER AND VUESTIONNAIRE TO SECTJRE THE NAMES OF FEMALE RESPONDENTS ...... I3U

E. CHI-S\¿UARE;TIONSHIPS TABLES FOR SIGNIFICANT RELI{' ...... T4L LIST OF TABLES

Table page 1. Frequency ancl Percentagq Pistribution by Age at fimê of Stuoy of 96 nesponoelts,ano by Age at Time of Arrival Abroao of 91 Rãsponcents ...... '.o""""..""" 47 2. Frequency ancl Percentage-Distribution by Le'vel ôf Eoucation oi tOt Responoents . .. 4¿ 3. Frequency and Percentage D-i-stribution by Fórmal- Educatíon in the Vùest of L02 Respondents ...... '... """"""""..' 49 4. Frequency ancl Peqcentage Distlibution- by Leingth- of Resictence in the !üest of 100 Resþonclents and in Canaoa of 102 Re- SpOnCentS ...... t"""tt"""""'"ò'"' 50 5. Percentage Distribution by Population of the Plãce of Resioence in PakÍstan ot 100 Respondents ...... "" " " "" ".. "' 52 6. Frequency ancl Percentage--Distribution of ttie Sewing ano Buyinþ Habits of T02 ResponOeriEs ...... """" """"""' 55 7. Frequency ancl Percentage-Distribution of ttie Tyþes of ClothÍ-ng Received from Pakistän by u9 Respoñoents .... ¡.. '. " " ' 56 ð. ' Frequency ano Percentage- Distribu.lion of ttie Tyþes of Clothinþ Likeo by Husbanos of. 96'iìesponoents .1...... 57 9. Frequency and Percentage pi-stribution of ttie Styles of Clothiñg Liked by Husbanos jð, OÍ. 96 i{eSpOnOenES ...... ,:.:.ì:.-, i"""' t0; Percentage DistribuËion of the^TyP." anc Styles-of Clothing Vüorn by L02 Re- SpOndentS ...... ""t"""""t""tttt 60

vl_l_ viii

Table Page 11. Frequency Distribution of the Types a1_cl Styles of ClothLng L02 Responoents Vüore anã lJoulo lrlear in-the Future ...... 7Z L2, Pearsont s Correlation Coefficient for ctothing styles PakisËanÍ trrlomen lrlore and the-Styles-...... They Likeo but Vùoulo not Wear ...... t " " t 73 t3; Reasons for not lrlearing the Clothing Styles Responoents Líkeo ...... 74 L4. Chi-square Values Showing RelationshiP-Be- tween Religious CommitmenË ano the Clothing Style lriorn-and not Vüorn by 101 Respondents.. 78 15. Chr-square Values_ Showing Relation"hip Be- twee-n Age and the Clothing Style I,üorn ano not lrlorñ by 96 Responoents ...... Ez 16. Chi-square Values Showing Relati-onship Be- Ëweén Age at Time of Arrival Abroad and the CloEhing SËyle vrlorn ano not vüorn by 9l ResponOeñEs ...... " "' . ó4 L7. Chi-square Values Showing Relationship Be- twedn Level of Ecucatiõn ano the Clothing Style lrlorn and not lüorn by 101 Re- spôndents ...... " " .. " o " ' o " ö6 18" Chi-square Values Showing RelationshiP Be- twedn Eoucation Abroao ancl the Clothing Style V,Iorn and not l¡riorn by 102 Re- spônOentS ...... o..""""..' Eö Lg. Chi-square Values Showrng RelaEi-onshiP Be- twedn Occupation ano the Ctothing Style !{orn and not V'lorn by LjZ Responcents . . .. 89 20. Chi-square Values Showing Relationship Be- twedn LengËh of Resiclence in Ehe üIest- and the Clothing Style lrlorn ano not V'lorn by 100 Respor¡oents ....o...... ,r,...... "" YL 2L. Chi-square Values Showing- Relationshiq Be- twedn Citizenship ano Èhe Clothing Style lrlorn ano not lrlorn by 101 Responcents .... 93 ix Table Page 'Be- 22. Chr-square Values Showing Relationship tween Place of Resioence in Pakistan ano the Clothing Style lrlorn and not !Ùorn by 100 ResponoenEs ...... 95 23. Chi-square Tables Showing Relationship Be- twedn Religious CommÍtment and Clothing- Style !üorn-and not Vüorn bY 101 ReäponoenLs ...... """"' T4'¿ 24. Chi-square Tables Showing_Relationship Be- tween Age and Clothing Style lüorn and not lriorn by-96 Responoentð ...... L45 25. Chi-square Tables Showing Relati-onship Be- twedn Age at Time of Arrival Abroao ano Clothin[ Style l¡Iorn ano not lrlorn by 9L Respondents ...... tt tt " tt t t' L46 26. Chi-square Tables Showir,rg RelationshiP- Be- Ëween Eoucation and Clothíng Style Vüorn and not ldorn by 101 Respondénts ...... L4a 27, Chi-square Tables Showing Relationship^Be- tween Eoucati'o,n Abroao-anct Clothing Style lrÏorn ano no't lriorn by L02 Responoents .. .. 150 28. Chi-square Tables Showing RelaËionship Be- tweén Occupation and Clothing Style lriorn and not tnJorn by L02 Responoeñts .. .. . - ... 151 29. Chi-square Tables Showing RelatÍonship Be- twedn Length of Resioence in the hrest and Clothlng Style lrÏorn and not I'üorn by 100 Responcènts ...... r...... r. L52 30. Chi-square Table.s Showing_Relatiolship Be- twee'n Citizenship and Clothing Style !üorn and noE VrJorn by iOf ResponoenÈs ...... L54 31. Chi-square Tables Showing Relati-onship Be- tween Place of Resicence in Pakistan ancl CloEhing Style lriorn and not I'riorn by 100 Responoðnts' ...... o"""" 15b aa \ :- a,^| :.' Ja,:: a l, \a:!, 1 \ : :: : a.a :a.:r :- a!.4:::: ;t | : aa,:.:. .'i\.:tlt.: :4,,a..1;'| )aa..i -'

LIST OF FIGURES

Figure Page 1. Freauencv DÍstribution by ReliEious Co'mmitínent Scores of 100 Resþonoents 53 2. Frequency DistribuËion of Garments l,rlorn bt 100 Responoents trrlhile Entertaining Pakistanis ano Canaoians . .,...... 64 3. Freouencv DisËribution of Garments !Ùorn Uy fOO- Respondents Wn*ile Visiting Pakistanis and Canadians ...... 65

/+. Freouencv Distribution of Garments lrlorn Uy fOO'Respondents on Religious and Cultural Occasions ...... 66 5. Frequency Distribution of Garments lrlorn bt 100 Respondents for Recreational ACtiVitieS ...... ¡.... 67 6. Frequency DistribuËion of Garments lrlorn bt 100 Responoents !ühile at Home, ãt I,rlork and I^lhile Shopping ...... 6ð LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

I llustration Page 1. Shalwar, KamLz ano Dupatta Ensemble '¿4 2. Gharara l(amiz Ensemble 2o 3. Churioar-pyjama Ensemble ...... 2¿ 4. The Sari ...... 30 5. Kurta ...... o. . 32

':.: .: . .:: I :,t:.:r;¡ri r::'. i.:.í.:'1

ChaPter I rMRoDUcrroN ,'.,1,,.. Social scientists refer to culture as the social heritage of man. Clothing behavi-our is part of this heritage, and reflects the technical, moral and aesthetic ,,,,,1 '.:'':';: backgrounds of a given socie¡y (22268), However, the wesËern mode of dress predominates in much of the world '1.,:.:,. Ëoday. A few contemporary cultures have preserved Ehe traditions from which their clothÍng was originally de-

rived. The Arabs, the Burmese, the lranis, the East : Indians and Ëhe Pakistanis are examples of Ëhese culËures. '

. : hlhen people of differenE cultures meeE, changes in

, one or all groups Ëakes place. the original culture of I

Invariably however an adult immigrant resisËs change. , Nevertheless, the change will come even though he may Ery

,.:.:, to preserve Ehe patterns in:which his personality \^ias .'-.-,.,n,'

(7:59). ..,',,',,', formed .: There was a surge of emigration from Pakistan Ëo BriËain in the 1950ts and 1960rs. one of the problems Ëhe new facing Ëhe emigrants in Eheir adjustment to ,, ,r,, , :::': l ' i':r::'" räountry was the conËinued use of the Pakistaní dress, the shalwar ín particular. Pakistani girls persisËed in wearing Ëhe shalwar Ëo school in spite of the prescribed

i.:;... r:.r]t 2: dress codes exisEing in British schools atr the time. This led to a confrontation between Pakistani parents and school officials. ScotË (3t:lt) reports ËhaE the disa- greement among the PakisËanis Ëhemselves complicated . .:..:. .:.;: matters. The well-educated emigrants from Ëhe urban :'''i""""""' cenËres of Pakistan, anxious to become westernLzed, stated categorically that the wearing of the shalwar \^7as a social :,:.,,,;::.,.:,., cusËom, while those from the villages remained unshaken in ,,:';.,,,'.:,,, ': Ëheir belief that iË was a binding religious duty. The t.:.::;:.:r,,i1::::::::; lattser considers the western fashions such as the bikini, Ehe sleeveless su¡nmer dress and lately the mini-skirE as i-ndecent and immodest. The researcher emigrated to Canada in the late i 1960's.Differencesinc1othingbehaviouramong became years. Pakistani acquaintances evident over the i Some women wear both the western dress and Ëheir national

, dress, others I^7ear only the national dress regardless of climatic condítions, while sËill others wear primarily the -,,.,,,,.,.,,,,,' wesËern dress. In the light of Ehese observaEions, a study ,,,',. ';:"""t':¡"':""': of the clothing pracËices of Pakistani women residing in Canada would be interesting and informative. It may help to idenEÍfy the factors related Eo theÍr clothing be- ... .t.. haviour and open avenues for further research among other ,:,,..,,, immigrant groups. The culEuial mosaic of Canada presents interesting facets to a researcher of cloËhing behaviour. Several studies have been made on both Ëhe social and psychological r,.;.,,,. 3 adjustments of immigrants, but there are no investigations focusing on the clothing behaviours of newcomers to Canada. A study of cloËhing practices of Pakistani women ,:ì,,,.,i residing in Canada is signifícant in view of their culËur- "::j::': a1 and religious backgøound. Their national cosEumes have the years, even after conËact with changed little over .,::::,

many differenË culËures and the adoption of western dress ,.,.-.,',,r,,',.. l by Pakistani men. r,.r:;,,¡,1:¡ Thå purpose of this e>çloratory research is to investigate Ëhe relationship between cloEhing practices of

ïlt7omen in Canada, and selected demo- ì Pakistani residing t,

graphic and cultural facËors. : :

SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES

i ThespecifícobjectivesofËhise>ç1oraËoryin-

vestigaEion are: ì ' 1. To determine Ehe relationship between clothing l,:-.. . :...: styles worn and clothing styles liked but not worn by ,,^;,,';r,,,',,,r Pakistani women residing in Canada_. ,,,'.,,,,,.:,,,' : : 2. To determine the relaEionship beËween cloËhing sËyles worn and the following variables:

(a) religious commiËmenË ;. ::, :::::::::_.,:': 'l:':"'.r': (b) age (c) level of education (d) occuPation (e) length of residence in the lüesË (f) country of ciËizenship (g) place of residence in Pakistan

DEFINITION OF TERMS The definitions of imporËant terms used in this study are as follows: lrlesËern dress - a form of clothíng currently l,rTorn by women in Europe and North America such as, pantsuiËs, dresses, gowns and swimsuits. Religious commitmenË - the degree to which a person is commited to religion in his everyday life, from the conservaEive who strictly follows the teachings of Islam to the liberal who does not. Body exposure - Ëo reveal any part of the body except the hands, face and feet. National or traditional dress - clothing worn in the urban centres of PakisËan such as, shalwar k'amLz, kurta, sari, gharara and churidar-pyjama. Conservative dress sËy1e - dress which strictly follows Ëhe clothing resËricËÍons placed by Islam. It is loosely fitted with full lengËh sleeves and either a standing collar or a jewel neckline. The tuni-c, jacket or blouse length ranges from 18 to 30 cms. above kneeline for 1.. the average figure. In this study, it is the mosË conservative style in terms of body exPosure among the five sketches given. 5 Moderatel y conservative dress sEyle - dress which deviates slightly from the clothing restrictions placed by Islam. It ranges from loosely Ëo slightly fitted, with full to three-quarter length sleeves. The depth of the neckline vafies from Ëhe jewel neckline to approximately 6 cilr. from the sËernal noËch. The tunic, blouse or jacket length may vary from 3 to 9 crlt. shorter than the length of Ëhe conservaËive sËyle. In this sËudy, the moderaËely conservative style falls in beËween the conservative and moderate style of dress. Moderate dress style - dress whích falls in be- Ëween the conservative and the liberal sËyle in terms of body exposure. It is slightly fitted, with sleeves varying from three-quarter Eo above-the-elbö.w in length. The depËh of the neckline varies from 6 to 9 cm. from the sternal notch. The minimum length of the tunic, blouse or jacket barely covers the hips. ModeraËely liberal dress sËy1e - dress which does not follow the clothing restrictions placed by Islam. In comparison to Ëhe other dress styles used in this study, it has less body e>(posure compared to the liberal dress sEyle buL more body exposure than the moderate style. It is well-fitËed wiËh sleeves varying from above-elbow Ëo sleeveless. The neckline depth Ís approximately 9 to L2 crn. from the sternal notch. Tunic, blouse or jackeË length varies from the waisË to approximaËely 18 cm. above the kneeline. 6 Liberal dress style - dress which is the most liberal in terms of body exposure among the five sketches given. It is tightly fitted and sleeveless wiËh a low decollete neckline. It may be backless. The length of the tunic, blouse or jacket may be from Ëhe waistline to approximately 18 cm. above kneeline. t:::a:.:tjit Í,Ii;1

Chapter II

REVIEI/ü OF LITERATURE

This chapter presents a brief review of the related literature mosË relevant to this study. Topics reviewed are: acculturation, the religion of Islam, clothing restrictions in Islam and clothing of the

Pakistani \iüoman.

ACCULTURATION

Acculturation is defined as Ëhe processes of change in arËifacts, customs and beliefs resulting from Ëhe contact of peoples of different culEural backgrounds (2268). In Ëhe 1930ts, a subconrníttee consisting of the disËinguished anthropologists Robert Redfield, Ralph Linton and Melville J. Herskovits was appointed to analyze and chart the dimensions of acculturaËion. They declared Ëhat acculturation: comprehends those phenomena which will resulË when groLrps of individuals having different culËures come inEo contínuous fÍrst-hand contact, wÍth subsequent changes in the original cultural paËterns of either or both groups (16 270). AccordÍng to BorrÍe (l:sg ) this Pïocess is one of progressíve adjustmenËs whereby an iuurr-igrant becomes adapted to the physical and socio-cultural environment of I the country of his adoption. Physical, psychologícal and socio-culËural factors such as race, religion, language, dress and diet, have a powerful effect on the adjustment raËe of the newcomer (l:59). Brody (S:ZO) categorLzed some of the factors which reflect the nature of the adaptation process. These include: time in system, such as ãgê, recency of migration and years in Ehe area; participation, such as marital status, family sLze, contacË wiËh neighbours, and office holding; rank, such as age, sex, race and office holding; esteem such as number of friends, number of godfatherships, perceived sociability; physical mobílity, such as visíËs to an urban cenËer and time lived ouËsÍde the donor system; and indí- cators of psychic mobility, such aê radío, TV, ner^7s- paper, magazLne or book reading and contact with friends who have been outside or have read. Studies of immigrant groups show that the maËerial Eraits such as dress, food and manners are invariably borrowed before nonmaterial traÍts which include religious beliefs and practices, customs and vahles. This finding \^7as substantiated by Cheng (fO:SS) in his study of a particular group of Chinese immigrants in Philadelphia. He observed that Ëhe most conspicuous changes Ì^7ere in the more Ëangible things and the Chinese women adopted the western clothing much more thoroughly than the men. How- ever, Lairs (ZS:lt) observatÍon on Chinese immigrants in Toronto showed that changes depended upon the availability of alternatives to a large extent. They celebrated Canadian festÍvals because the Chinese festival dates do not fall on Canadian holidays and thus do not allow for 9 elaborate celebration. They also read Canadian newspapers because Ëhey are more informative with respect to daily local events. Ho\nrever, they eat Chinese food because the íngredients are readily available in Chinese grocery stores. According to Borrie Q:Sg) Ëhere are differences in the type of problems faced by Ehe head of the household, h'is wife and his children. The adults are directly affected by the psychological problems because Eheir person- alities are already steeped in a definiËe culture. Their resislance to change whether passive or active, prompts them to cling to the characteristics of their origin and preserve the patterns in which Eheir personalítÍes were formed. This was supported in a study on acculturation among Ehe Japanese, done by Embree (tZ:55). He observed Ëhat an aËtempt was made to reËain many of their old social customs. Three things have been preserved wiËh remarkable tenacity, the Japanese style of bath, food and kitchen. He felt that these habits !üere most deeply ingrained because they were acquired in early childhood. These habits are considered Ëo be the sphere of women whom social scientists consider the stabilizing and conservative elemenË noË only in the household buË also in Ëhe preservaËion of cultural patterns Q:Sg, L2:55). In his survey of Ëhe socio-economic characteristics and general adaptation of the Lebanese Muslims of Lac La Biche, Alberta, Barclay $zlt) e>çlored the extent Ëo 10 which the Lebanese communiEy had been able to perpetuate its Muslim tradition. Among the twenty male Lebanese heads of household in the area, he found a hard core minority of faithful adherents to the reli-gion of Islam, a Large periphery of lukewarm, mediocre followers and an outer circle of the devianË-marginals. The area of greatest discrepancy !üas the consumption of pork and the use of flimsy clothÍng by women. He felt this was due to the distinct minoríty status of the Canadian Muslims, and their continual exposure to a Canadian milieu which views with approval, and thus makes readily available both pork and rrbikinisrr. Few studies have focused on the clothing behaviour of acculturated groups. Mackenzte (26267) investigaËed the changes in clothing habits of a selected group of Alaskan Eskimo women living in the Bering Sea Coastal region. She compared woments mode of dress at the time of contact wiËh western culture to the mode of dress aË the present time. She found Ëhat êBê, level of education, soc'ial participation in community, income and emplo¡zment background had a signifícant effecË on the adoption of non-naËive versus native dress. Most of Ëhe native \,vomen who were a!üare of the changes that had occurred in their culEure, felt Ëhe change favourable and recognized iËs occurrence to a greater extent among the younger people. Harris (ZO:øZ) in a study on the clothing behaviour of twenty-five Indian and twenty-seven Chinese 11 immigrant T^7omen, measured attitude towards and ownership of wesËern dress. The research was conducted at the Pennsylvania State UníversiËy and at the Cornell University campuses. She found a direct relationship between the number of garments owned and the attítude towards western dress, that is, the higher the attitude score the higher Ehe ownership. Length of time in the UniËed States and travel Ëo other countries also had a significant relationship wíËh attitudes toward western dress. Students T/vere found to have relatively higher ownership and attitude toward wesEern dress Ëhan rion-studenËs. Although there \^7as no significant relationship between marital status and attitude toward western dress, single tüomen hTere found to o\,vn more western dresses than married l^7omen. Harris found Ehe modesty factor to be significantly related to ownership and attitude. TwenËy-three Indian and nineteen Chinese \^Jomen considered one or more garments immodest. She concludes that modesty would have a large influence on the clothing behaviour of the immigrant women. The studies cited indicate that the reactions of immigrant groups in the process of acculturation are influenced by several components in their cultural background. Some of these are cusËoms, values, beliefs and practices.

.,:".: .;: :: .l L2

THE RELIGION OF ISTAI{

Topics most relevant for the undersËanding of Islam as a religion are briefly reviewed in this section. These are: (1) the sources of Islamic law, Q) the Shari tah or the IslamÍc law, (3) the creed of Islam and G) Ëhe five pillars of Islam. The Ëerritory no\,v constituting Pakistan has been the seat of many civilizations. Each one lefË its im- prints as manifesËed in the presence of different cusËoms, belíefs, values, tradítions and attiËudes towards life. In the 8th century A.D. the Arabs introduced the relígion of Islam ín the Sind region of the subcontinent of India and Pakistan. The Muslim invasions in 960 A.D. and iËs subsequent rule till 1388, and the Mughal Empire from L524 to 1930 introduced this new relígion throughout the subcontinent. In Lg47, Ehe Muslims of the subcontinent

gaíned an independenE Muslim state, noT^7 known as Pakistan. The Hindu converts to Islam retained many of their old Híndu customs, while the Muslims moving inËo the subcontinent frequently adgpted the Hindu customs. Thus Islam as practiced in Pakistan is differenE from Islam as practiced in other Muslim countries and societies. The more conspicuous differences among the differenË Muslim societies are in the customs, tradLtions and inËerpre: tations of the Muslim religion. However, Ëhe principles of Islam has been influenced by Hinduism, Sikhism, the l::::.:: i :l 13

Sufi movement in Islam (the Muslim mystics) and the

British reign (f:09) . Islam as preached by Muhammad is both a religion and a system for the otganLzation of the community. It is a way of life deeply embedded in beliefs, atEiËudes, morals and values of its followers. Islam, in Arabic means, ttsurrendertt. ttpeacett, Hsubmissiontt r trobediencerr, and It stands for complete submission to the will of God. One who accepts Islam is a Muslim, professing the faith (shahada). The whole belief is embodied in the prayer, rrThere is no god but God and Muhammad is His Apostlefr. In His last sermol1, the Prophet Muhammad gave the fundamenEal core of the teachÍngs of Islam: Belief in one God without images or s1mrbols, equality of all the Believers wiËhouc distincËion of race or class, the superioriËy of-individuals being based solely õn peity; sanctity of life, and honourt- aboliCion- of inLerest, and of-properEy vendetEas and privatá justice; better treaËmenË of women; obliþatory dlstribufion of Ehe-prop.erty of deceased persons airong near relaEives of both sexesr -and removal of tñe possibility of the accumulation of wealth in the händs of thê few (t9:59). The rêligion of Islam derives its laws from the Holy Qurran, the Sunna or Hadith and ljtihad. Qurran which literally means rreadingt or rrecitationt is believed to be Ëhe lrlord of God, revealed to HÍs messengêr, Muhammad. Muslims believe tha! the Qurran is addressed to everyone regardless Of raCe, colour, Creed or time. It seeks to guide man individually and collecËively in his physical and spiritual life. The Qurtan was revealed in L4 fragmenËs from time to time over a period of twenty-three years in Mecca and then in Medina. These revelations have been compiled in 114 chapters (Suras). The Mecca revelations which deal with faíth in God, are prophetical and show how true happiness of mind may be sought in communion with God. The Medina revelations on the other hand, trans- late the faith into action, deal with the fulfilmenË of the prophecy and point out how mants dealings wiEh man may be a source of comfort as well as bliss (¡:n.d.). The sunna or Hadith is Ëhe second source from which the Ëeachings of Islam are dra\,vn. Ali (3:n.d.) states thaË there are three kinds of Sunna2 attQ-ualtt, which is the words of the Prophet Muhammad and has a bearing on religious questions; a ttfirltt, which is an action or practice of the Prophet Muhammad; and a lttaqrirrr, which is His silent approval of the acEion or practice of another. The third source for the laws of Islam ís ljtihad, which means ttexerting oneself to the utmost or to Ehe best of onets abilitytt. Reasoning and the exercíse of judgement in theological and legal matters plays an important role in Islam. If no direction is found in the Qurtan or the Hadith, Ijtihad,is the last recourse of action. The sphere of ljtihad is quite extensive. It has resulted in various methods of reasoning which are technically known - as qiyas (analogical reasoning), istihsan (equity), istishah (public good) and IsËidlal (inference). t5 The Sharitah is the Islamic law which provides guidance for the regulation of life. It imposes four kinds of rights and obligations uPon every man, (f) the rights of God, which every man is obliged to fulfill, (2) hís own rÍghts upon his own self, (3) the rights of other people over him and (4) Ëhe rights of those po\,vers and resources which God has placed Ín his service and has empo!üered him to use for his benefit (27 z7Z) . According to the Holy Qurtan and the Hadith, the five fundamental beliefs of the creed of Islam are: mants belief in one God, in His Angels, in His PropheËs, in His Books and Ehe last day of Judgement. The fr:ndamental religious duties obligatory in Islam are the five pillars: (f ) tawheed, Q) salat (prayer), (3) fast, G) aalrcal (almsgiving) and (5) haj j (pilgrimage). Every Muslim is required to recite Ehe Tawheed at least once in his life, understanding not only iËs meaning but meaning every word uËtered aloud - rrThere ís no god but God and Muhammad is His Apostlert. The Islamíc heart of worship is salat (prayer). It is either performed alone or in congregaËion five times a d,ay. It is a part of oners everyday acËivities. The prayers are said before sunrise (fa3r), jusË after mid-day. (zuhr), iri the afternoon (asr) , ãt sunset (maghrib) and before going to bed (isrra). The prayer consisËs of the recitation of certain verses from the Holy Qurran, which are accompanied by various acËions, such as Ëhe reverential L6 atËiËude in standing, the bowing down, the kneeling with the forehead placed on the ground and the reverent sitting posture. These are preceded by ablutions. The purpose of the prayer is to help the mínd reaLize the Divine presence and to acknowledge the Supreme might and majesty áf CoA, with words and with oners whole being. Zakat (almsgiving) is obligatory f.or every Muslim whose financÍal conditions are above a cerËain specifíed minimum. ït is a form of Ëaxation paidaannually on all cash, gold, silver or any other form of capital ínvestment aË the uniform rate of two and a half percent. It is a form of re-distribuËion of wealth. This money is given to the poor, the needy, the capËives, the debtors and the wayfarers. Fasting according to Islam is prÍmarLLy a spiriËual and moral discipline. Muslims are requ?red to fast for twenty-nine or thirty days in the month of Ramadan, the tenth month of the Muslim calendar. They are to abstain from eating, drinking, smoking and other conjugal acts from an hour and a half before sunrise to sunset. It is an obligaËÍon to be fulfilled by all adult Muslims. The old, the sÍck, Ëhe traveller, Ehe pregnant and the nursing mother who may find it quÍte difficult to fasË however, are exempted from this obligatory duEy. The fifth pillar of Islam is hajj (pilgrimage). The annual pilgrimage to Mecca takes place each year in the twelfth monËh of the MuslÍm calendar, known as L7 Dhu-l-Hijja (the pilgrímage monEh). Muslims from all over the world gather in Mecca. A cerËain mode of dress is prescribed for the occasion. The pilgrimage to Mecca, whÍch is meanË to bring about an ascetic e>çerience in a mants life is a religious obligation for those who are physically and financially able to underEake the journey. Although a number of Muslims make yearly pilgrimage to Mecca, it can be made just once in onets lifetime. Some Muslims prefer to add Jihad to the five pillars of Islam. Jihad is of three kinds: Ëhe cgrrying on of a struggle against a visible enemy, against the devil and against the self. In essence, Islam ís a set of theological dogmar. a for¡n of worship, a political and economic theory and a detailed code of socíal conduct -including clothing, hygiene and etiquette..

CLCIHING RESTRICTIONS IN ISI,A}'I

Varíations ín clothing among Ëhe different cultures are acceptable according to the Ëeachings of Islam provided that, the clothing sËyles do not reveal parEs of the body which are rsatrr. Satr is that parË of the body which is not Ëo be e>çosed to any person excepË Ëo the husband or the wife,. or for medical or other important reasons. The parts between the knees and the navel are declared satr for men, while the entire body of a r,.Toman except her hands, face and feet are included in satr. 18 The Holy Qurtan states: Sav to the believins men that thev cast down Ëheir looks ánd guard their piivate parts; that is purer for Ëhem. Surely Allah is aware of what they do. And say to the believing women that they casË down their looks and guard their private parts and do not display their ornaments except what appears thereof, and let them T¡7ear their head-coveríng over their bosoms and not display their ornaments excepË to their husbands, oT their fathers.- or the faËhers of Ëheir husbands, oT their sons, or sons of Eheir husbands, or Ëheir brothers, ot the sons of their brothers, or their sisters I sons , or their rvomen, or those whom their ríght hand possess, or male servants noE having need (of women) or the children who have not attained knowledge of whaË is hidden of women, and let Ëhem not sËrike their feet, so that what they hide of their ornaments may be Énown (xxiv 30-33): !üomen are restricted by the Holy Qurtan to display their elegance and ornaments. The term tzÍ-naiur translaEed to mean ornaments has diverse ínterpreËaËions. ltllten in- Eerpreted as a term, it means beauty of Ëhe body, when read in context it denoËes external adornment. It is the latter translatÍon which Ís accep,Eed by many scholars (32zlZ). The phrase rexcept what appears thereofr in thís

verse from the Holy Qurtan is considered controversial. l:.r._.J'i.. Siddiqui (SZ:IZ) compares the interpretations of two Muslim scholars. Razi claims it is permissible for women to have their hands and face uncovered, otherwise it would be impossible for them to participate in Eheir business affairs. IGshshaf on the oËher hand, says that these words mean, rrexcept thaË which is customary and natural to un- coverrf. This may allow for variaËions among different societíes due to varying cusËoms, which could be against Ëhe teachings of Islam. However, Ehe majority of Muslim L9

jurists, theologians and Companions of the Prophet Muhammad agree with Razi thaE a womanrs hands and face can be kept uncovered. This view is supporËed by the fact that at the annual pilgrimage in Mecca, women are e>çressly forbidden the use of Ëhe veil, thus leaving the face and hands uncovered while Ëhe resË of the body is clad in modest

clothes . The following verse from the Holy Qurtan is specific to woments clothing: O Prophet! say Ëo your wives and your daughters and the women of the believers that thev let down on their bosoms their over-garments (xxx 59), Contrary to the popular belief held by many people, there is no indication in the Holy Qurtan or Ehe Hadith thaË \^7omen are to be kept veiled and confined to Ehe home. According to the Hadith, when rtlfilâg, the Prophet Muhammadrs Companion, objecEed to the Prophetrs wife coming out of her house, He said that His wives were free to go outside to saËisfy their legitimate wanËs. Other similar inci- dences indicaËe that hTomen during the period of early Islam \^7ere unveiled and were not confined to theír homes. They frequently came out of their homes to satisfy their economic, religious and inËellectual needs. Glubb (fS:ZO) attributes the severemmeasures of veiling and confinement Ëo the Persian influence. Other wesEern writers believe this practice began in the later period of Ëhe Prophetts lífetime.

i l.':., :.ì.-ì ìl;'ìà:a:.:.Ìi:

Purdah is the complete isolation of r^7omen from relationships with men other than those wiËhÍn her family. ülhen outside the home, a Muslim woman was required to \^lear burquta which concealed her figure from head to foot. In the subcontínent of India and PakÍstan, the native auEhors dísagree abouE the'beginnings of purdah. Singh (g+:A0) states that the practíce of purdah was introduced after the Muslim invasions. Rustomji (2S:38) on the other hand, remarks that the instituËion of purdah came with a series of invasions of the subcontinent. The resulting insecurity of persons and property led Eo Ëhe practice of purdah. In time, a false sense of respecËability became attached to purdah which was adopted by some Híndus and by some Christians as well. Habibullah (28:38) elaboraEes on this issue by stating that the moral rules are always interpreted according to the spirit of the times, thereforce Ehere Ere numerous interpretations by various people of the same injunëtion from Ehe same Book. The socio-religious tenets of Islam enjoin its women belíevers Ëo be modest in their clothing. Styles of clothing which do not e>(pose any part of the body except the hands, face and feet are acceptable. CloËhes which reveal the body because of tight fit or Ëhe use of sheer fabrics are forbidden. Conservatism in clothing is associated with religious commÍtment. However, studies of other religious 2L groups report conflicting results. Griesman (tl:0ø) for example, found ËhaË the more orthodox girls agreed with Ëhe attitude of Ëhe Seventh-Day Adventist Church towards clothing standards. Furthermore, they vüere less interested in clothes than those who disagreed with its strict clothing standards. Similarly, Huberts (Z+:01) study showed that religious participation among college men and

\^7omen correlated significantly with their conservative il:i:;i:.1 score,. However, Klíenlinet s (2+:øl) study on Mennonite viomen indicated no direct relaEionship beEween their conservativeness of dress and church attendance- parEicipation score. These contradictory findings reflect the varying interpreEaEions and meaning of relígion for different individuals within differenË faiths.

CLOTHING OF THE PAKISTANI I/üOIvÍAN

Ninety-seven percent of Ehe population of Pakistan professes the faiËh of Islam. Everyday activitíes such as diet, education, customs, marriagês, celebration of :I.-lJ:. rl' festívals and even the internal and external policies of the nation are influenced by Islam. Islam requires Muslim túomen Ëo be modestly dressed, covering all parts of their body except the face, hands and feet. The clothing patËerns of the PakisËani women adhere to these resËricËions. In public, the majority of Pakistani women cover their heads with ei.sher a dupatta or a burqura. PakisËani children wear western style clothing. 22 However, girls start to wear the national dress beEween the ages of eight and ten. The different regions of Pakistan have developed distinctive forms of costumes, fabrics, printing, dyeing and embroidery. In Ëhe urban centres of Pakistan Ëhe popular outfits are: the shalwar, kamLz and dupatta ensemble, the gharara ensemble, the churidar-pyjama ensemble, Lhe sari and Ehe kurËa. These costumes have both Hindu and Muslim influences. Sculptures and cave paintings reveal that draped garmenËs existed in the subcontinent of India and Pakistan from time immemorial (+:l+). Cloth lengths were wrapped and tied around the lower parts of the body. lrlomen are usually depicted as bare-breasted and wearingcornaments around their necks, A separate piece of cloËh was used as a scarf. These draped garments are believed to be the precursors of the present day sari and dupatta. Military invasions, conrnercial conEact and the use of foreign slaves influenced the court fashions at the time. Although se\^7n and unsewn garments \,íere known as early as the 3rd cenEury 4.D., draped garments r^7ere sEitl preferred. A T-shaped loose garment of Ehis period may have been the predecessor of Ehe kurta. The shalwar was introduced by Ëhe Turks. Persian culture and clothing are believed Eo have been introduced to the subconËinent by the Mughals, They brought cumbersome, concealing garments to replace the more revealing dress of Ehe Hindu and BudhisE Societies. 23 The churidar-pyjama is associated with Muslim females while the gharara evolved from the RajasËhani ladyrs gaghra. This \,vas a Mughal innovation. Under Ëhe British influence certain garments such as the sari blouse and ,.,.,,,,.r,t,.,.,,, the kamiz became more Ëailored and fitted. ' '

The Shalwar. Kamiz and Dupatta Enssmble The shalwar, kamLz and dupaËEa as an ensemble is :.:', "r":'' popular in Ëhe urban centres of PakisËan (illustration 1). This most practical outfít:is adopEed by women in pro- ''-"".""] fessions, for uniforms, recreation, travel, everyday wear and as a bridal dress. The kind of fabric used, the amount and kind of trim and decoration determines the occasion on which iË may be worn. i may of a white or The everyday ensemble consist i

l solíd coloured shalwar, a plain or printed kamiz and a l dupatta which either matches the colour of the shalwar or , ofËhekamiz.Thechoiceofcolourref1ectsthewearertS

,,'-t.t. -1 ,_-', tasËe and prefereace . i' ''¡..r':

, :_. :l: .i_ : : The shalwar is a Ërouser-like garment which is ',i,",1',',1 ,'tt'-"ttj' gathered at the top wíth the use of a drawsEring (illus- tratíon 1). The shalwar may be worn from the waisË or the ankle and from over the hips. It tapers towards , ¡,,,,,..', covers the foot. The lower opening of the shalwar is called a tpainchar. The circumference of Ëhe paincha is modernized and stylized according to fashion requiremenEs of Ëhe time. The paincha is interfaced and stitched KAMIZ

\ \l \

\ PAINCHA

SHALWAR

5N) ILLUSTRATION I. SHALWAR, KAMIZ AND DUPATTA ENSEMBLE

._i :i! : ì:¡ :4 .::¿ 25 decoratively in Ehe same colour for stiffness. The kamiz is a sheath-like dress \^7orn over the shalwar (illustration 1). It has slics on the lower portion of side seams. Darts are used to fit Ehe dress at ,::.,,.,:., the waistline. The sleeves may vary from full length to '' sleeveless. The neckline may have a collar sËyled according to individual preference and fashion. The hemline j,:,:i.:,, a: : varies wiËh fashion, and may rise or fall -jusE as it does ' in wesLern fashions. i,.,'tr:...,;,',t.,' The dupatËa is a scarf or stole. It is made of sheer, light weight fabric such as chiffon, georgette or one tissue. ït varies in width from thirty-six to hundred ,

1 and thirty cms. and ís two to three metres in length. It i

ì can be draped in various riüays. The most popular way is to

i drape it over the shoulders with the two loose ends

ì falling free at the back and the front falling over the i bosom (illustraËion 1). In public, most r4Tomen drape the ì dupatta over their heads. : .. , ,

The Gharara. Kamiz and Dupatta Ensemble The gharara is a mughal court dress (illustration 2), Reserved for f,ormal occasions, it is quiËe popular as a bridal dress. The formality of the garment is e>çressed through fabric, colour, embroidery, Ërim and decoration. IE is an expensive and elaborate dress. Like most bridal dresses of other cultures, it reflects the creative inge- nuity and taste of the wearer. KAM IZ

GORED PART

RUFFLED SKIRT CUT ON BIAS

GHARARA t\) ItLUsrRArroN t' GT,TâEî,tH t Or

:Ì,r ...4i) !.1¡:r:.f1,)-::-: l

27 The gharara is gathered at the waist and gored up to the kneeline (illustraËion 2). A long ruffled skirt cut on the bias is attached with a seam to the kneeline. The kami z worrt over the gharara gives an over-411 appearance of simplicity (illustration 2). It has slits in the side seams and darts are used to fit the dress at the waistline. The sleeves vary from full length to sleeveless, The neckline is styled according Ëo individual preference. The míd-thigh length of the kamiz does not var:y with fashion. The dupatta which is of sheer fabric is generally one metre in width, and from two and a half to f,our metres in length. It is usually drpped over the shoulders with Ëhe Ëwo loose ends falling free in the front displaying the embroidery, trim and decoration of the dupatEa. It can also be draped in a variety of ways.

The Churidar-Pgijama Ensemlle The churidar-pyjama is a close-fitting, breeches- like trouser, considered becoming to those with well- proportioned slender figures (illustration 3). Cut on the bias, the trousers are fifteen to twenty-five cms. longer than the leg length of the wearer. The toP is gaËhered with a drawstring. The churidar-pyjama may be worn at the waist or from slightly above the hips. They are loose at and above the knees while fitËing snugly over Ëhe calf and lower leg, forming tight braceleE like folds. )( KAMIZ

CHURIDAR - PYJAMA CUT ON BIAS

¡\) ILLUSTRATION 3. CHURIDAR - PYJAMA ENSEMBLE æ

.: : ,:;' .-.;;

' i:rl

;Ì'Ì 29 The kamLz and the dupatta worn with a churidar- py jama are similar to the kami z and dupatta \^7oLn over a shalwar (illustration 3). The kind of fabric used, Lrim and decoration determines the formality of this ensemble.

The Sari Sari is a garment which is universally well-known (illustraEion 4). In Pakistan, a sari is mostly worn on formal occasions because it is not very pracËical for everyday wear. It ís worn wíth a blouse and a long petticoat (íllustraËion 4). The sari is a straight piece of fabric usually six metres long and one and one third metres wide. It is draped over the petticoaË around the waist. VarÍation in drapÍng is achieved by Ëhe pallu (the part draped over the shoulder) which can be draped in many lvays depending on índividual pref erence. The waist length blouse is closely fitted. It has either a front, side or back closure. Tightly fiËted sleeves vary from full length to sleeveless. The neckline may have a collar or any neckline treatmenË depending on individual preference. The petticoat Ís a long four gored skirt into which Ëhe sari is tucked to hold it in place. Variety in a sari is achieved through fabric, colour, print, embroidery, Ërim and design. Styles of saris change according to the dictates of fashion. 30

SARI BLOUSE

PET T ICOAT

ILLUSTRATION 4. THE SAR I. 3l usually, it is the fabric, f.abrLc design and different forms of embroidery which change wiEh fashion.

The KurËa The kurta Ì^7orn interchangeably wíth the kamÍz is a loose garment with long sleeves (illustration 5). The jewel neckline wiEh a centre fronË closure may have a mandarin collar. The kurta is similar in lengËh to the karni-z and may rise or fall according Ëo fashion. Usually worn,in sumner, it has slits in the síde seams. It may be worn with either a shalwar, a gharara oT a churidar- pyjama.

Nightclothes : women no special form of night- PakisËani have i clothes. Some wear Ëhe same clothes worn during Ëhe day, whi1eothersmayhaveadifferentsetofc1othesreserved for nightwear. Vüestern nightclothes such as pyjamas and peignoir seËs are PoPular among a few fashion secters in ,.,,: ,ì,,: pakistan. : :1:-:ì- ,,.,.,.,.,,,,

, ¡-,;. ., I , ', The Bu_rqu f a Burquta is the most conspicuous over-garment Ì^7orn in PakisËan. The one-piece tent-like style is now re- :.:l::l:_.;.: l ,-,1::,'1!,;, placed by the two-piece sËy1e.burqura. It is made of r:¡ eiËher silk, crepe or cotton, and the popular colours are black, navy, dull bihue, shades of tan, gray and brown' [ :i:i' -] l.: :,: i

ILLUSTRATION 5. KURTA 33 The two-piece burquta consists of a long coat and a head piece. The coat, which can be either fitted or loose, is buttoned down the front. It has full length sleeves and a jewel neckline. The head piece is tied under the chin with ribbons or straps. It covers the head and shoulders like a shorË, waist length cape. A small recËangular piece of sheer fabric covers Ëhe face to facilitate vision, The burquta is popular among the con- servaËive and orËhodox families, and is usually worn by adult hromen. Today, many Pakistani women are eiËher re- placing the burquta by a coaË or it is not \,üorn aE all.

Jewelry Jewelry ís very popular in Pakistan. The buying of jewelry is the traditional way of saving money and is sËil1 the favourite meËhod of investing money by both rich and poor alike. VÍllagers and nomadic Ëribes I,íear silver jewelry which is hand-made by village craftsmen. Gold jewelry set wiËh precÍous stones is more popular in cities and towns. Girls I ears are pierced at a young age. Simple gold or silver earrings or hoops are used to adorn the ears Ëill girls are married. After marriage, earrings, rings, gold bangles and chains are worn everyday by many women. Glass bangles are popular for special occasions. On her wedding dry, a gifl T^7ears almost all Ëhe jewelry she receives as part of her dowry from her parents and IJ'¡:lìÍ.:.':iì:itÏ;

34 .' in-laws. The more elaborate píeces of jewelry are worn on formal occasions, Pakistani !üomen generally wear their hair long and braided. It may also be worn loosely hanging, in a bun or i::.:.:.:;::. cut short. lrlestern cosmetics are readily available and ,:':i::::.:::j- have gained populariËy over the traditional cosmetics prepared from herbs, oíls and home recipes

l: ::, t :, ;:: , t:

'.: l: i :'l: - Chapter III

METHODS AND PROCEDURE

This study was designed to investigate the re- laEionship between clothing practices of Pakistani vüomen and specific cultural and demographic characterisËics. The following nul1 hypotheses rivere formulated for this sËudy: 1, There is no signifÍcanË relatíonship between clothing styles worn and clothing styles liked buË noE r^7orn by Pakistani women residing in Canada. 2. There is no significanË relationship between religious commitment and clothing styles \^7orn by Pakistani women residing in Canada. 3. There is no significant relaËionship between age and clothing styles worrì by Pakistani women residing in Canada. 4. There is no significant relationship between level of education and clothing styles \^7orn by Pakistani women residing in Canada. 5. There is no significant relationship between occupation and clothing styles l^7orn by Pakistani lvomen resídíng in Canada. 6. There is no significant relationship between length of residence in the lrTest and cloËhing styles hTorn

35 36 by Pakistani \,vomen residing in Canada. 7. There is no significant relationship between country of citizenship and clothing styles worn by PakisËani vüomen residing in Canada. 8. There is no significanË relationship between place of residence in PakisËan and clothing sEyles worn by Pakistani hTomen residing in Canada.

ASSIJMPTTONS ''.

,,a¡tt t ,' The following assumptions are made in this study: 1. Subjects in the study understand the English ' terms used in,the questionnaire. 2, Subjects are willing to e>

: teachings of Islam, their reasons for praying and the use i of hallal meaË. The questionnaire developed is an adequate 3. I measure of clothing behaviour and religious commitment iii.,,.:,,,., of Pakistani T¡7omen residing in Canada. ,,,,i,.,r,,, 4. The differenE types and styles of clothing .".'"¡'""" sketched are representative of the wardrobe of a PakisËani .,;ei. woman residing in Canada.

DESCRIPTION OF INSTRT]MENIS

A questionnaire (Appendix A) was developed to assess the cloLhing sËy1es, specific cultural factors and demographic characteristics of Ehe subjects. 37 Questionnaire on CloEhing Styles Pen and ink sketches of different types öf garments \^7ere chosen to ascertain the clothing pracEices of PakisEani women. Instead of descriptive sËaËements, sketches were chosen for ease in communication as these would convey to the subjects the type and style of garment about which their response was sought. As a result of the researcherrs observation on Ëhe cloËhing practices of her Pakistani friends residing in Canada and on the types of clothing in her own wardrobe, níne basic types of garments \^7ere chosen for the study. These garments aret (f ) pantsuits, Q) swimsuits, (3) dresses, (4) blouses, (5) gowns, (6) sleepwear, (7)shalwar kanLz, (8) saris and (9) sari blouses. Styles of western garmenEs chosen for the study liüere taken from pattern books, fashion magazines and sales catalogues. The styles \^7ere selected so that they could be categorized as either conservative, moderately conservative, moderaËe, moderately liberal or -liberal in des,ign. The criteria for the cate- gorizaËion of these styles \^7ere developed based on the clothing restrictions set by Islam for Muslim women. The conservative style designaËed within each style caËegory

.: has simple design línes with a high neckline and full t::. : : sleeves, while the liberal style within that same category has a low neckline, is closely fitted to the body contours and is sleeveless.

ì:..r .:.1 ;r, ,'...','li L!7, :..,-..- \\:1":;;.i

38 The styles for the eastern garmenEs, namely the shalwar kamLz, and the sari blouses ü7ere given in varying sleeve length and garment length, amount of fit and neckline depth to fit tnto the categorizaELon seË for the ,,,,...,. western garmenËs. Since there is only one basic way of :::.''j:' j:":-:i wearing Ëhe sari in Pakistan, iE was decided that the three variations for draping the pallu be used. '.,',,,,-:',,-, All the garment sËyles r,úere sketched with the use ,,,,,;,,,,t.,..'..,- of a croqui to control proportíon, posEure and facial ,,,,,,',, ):":':"::,,,,,,, expression. Shoes and háÍrsËyles were excluded because ': they vüere difficult to control and were not being measured.

Four PakistanÍ women ranging in age f:rom 25 to 45 were asked to rate the garment styles as conservative moderate1yconServative,moderate,moderate1y1ibera1and 1iberal.Thegarments\^7ereËobecategorizedintermsof the clothing restrictions set by Islam. In the final questionnaire, the categorization of the five garment styles for each garment t,,Pe were randomly :,,,,,.,,,.,,',,,1,,, ordered (Appendix C). It Ì,üas assumed that Ëhis would keep ,,," . ' the subjects from preconceiving the answers and from 1":""t'.''" "' reaLizLng that they were placing themselves in categories. g"""ti"*"ir"." R"1@ : - 1: .r-_ :. ..; ; A questionnaire based on the dimensions of re- ligfous commitment given by Stark and Glock (:S:09) was developed. Belief, knowledge, pracËice, consequence and experience are the five dimensions discussed by Stark and 39 Glock, but only four of these namely, belief, knowledge, practice and consequence were used for the study. A likert-Eype scale composed of a set of questions for each dimension chosen were formulated. A score of five was assignéd to the conservative, four to the modetaLeLy conservative, three to Ëhe moderaËe, two to Ehe moderately líberal and orle to the liberal. Three open-ended quesËions r^7ere included to give the subjects an opportunity to e>cPress their opinions on: Eheir reasons for praying, the use of hallal (kosher) meat and the practice of Islam in Canada.

Personal Data InvenEory

l A personal data invenËory was designed to secure information on specific cultural and demographic charac

i teristics and on the clothing practices of Pakistani i i womeÍr. Background informatíon requesËed included:

(r) âg€, Q) level of education, (3) occupation, G) lengEh ' of residence in Canada and other counËries other than ,,,,ì,'. '..,'. Pakistan, (5) marital status, (6) place of residence in ,r ij,;,: : r;'1':.' Pakistan and Q) country of citizenship. Information on clothing practices included the shopping, buying and sewing habits of the subjects, types of garments recei'ved ,"ri;,;:,, from Pakistan, form of outer covering worn while in r..1!::r:l Pakistan and the frequency with which jewelry is worn. QuesËions pertaining to Ëhe husbandts role and his inËerest in his wifets clothing vvere Íncluded in the quesEionnaire 40 as vüell. Subjects were also requested to list the differ- enË types of garments they wore for different activitíes,

SELECTION OF SUBJECTS

The Pakistani embassíes in Ottawa and in I¡üashington, D.C. ïvere requested Eo forward the names and addresses of PakisËani \,vomen residing in Canada and the United States, respectively. Both embassies considered this information very confidential. However, the embassy in Ottawa for- warded a list of twenËy-eight Pakistani cultural, religious and sËudent associations across Canada. Ten of these associations furnished the names and addresses of their members. The majority of them provided the names and addresses of their female members only. The list from Toronto, Ottawa and London comprised of approximaEely 500 names of its male and female members. Since an unofficíal estimate of Pakistanis in Toronto and its vicinity places the ímmigrant population at ten thousand, Ëhe author felt it was imperative to include Ehis sample in the sËudy. A letter, a one-page questionnaire (Appendix D) and a sËamped, self-addressed envelope \^7ere mailed to everyone on the list, to secure the names of PakisËani women residing in these areas. The questionnaire also requested the subjects to forward the names and addresses of their Pakistani acquaíntances. Approximately 150 female names were secured in this manner. 4l A total of. 25O female names chosen for the study were from SË. Johnts, Halifax, Ottawa and its vicinity, Toronto and its vicinity, Hamilton and its vicinity, London, !üindsor, Saskatoon, Calgary, Edmonton and its vicinity and Vancouver. Pakistani \47omen residing in Vüinnipeg were chosen for the pre-test.

PRE-TEST i:t't"'':l ':. ::' :: A pre-tesË was conducËed in earLy spring of T975 l,:,r,,:,,, to determíne the applicabílity and clarity of the question naire. Questionnaires were mailed to twenty-four Pakistani Iiùomen residing in l,rlinnipeg. Although the sample was too , small for a statisËical analysis, changes Ì^7ere made in the format of the questionnaire based upon Ehe data received

l from fifteen subjects. Many questions in the pre-test hTere open-ended in

i order to secure the subjects opinions. The responses to these questions were tabulated and those with the highest ,,,,,,,r:,,. frequency \,vere included in the final questionnaire as : : .:--.il . ::,: : structured questions. These were questions number 5 in ':t:; ' the clothing instrument, and questions 48, 5La, 51b and 55 in the personal data inventory. \^Jere The different types of garments reordered Ëo ,i,,,,,,., control the subjectrs bias towar:ds the foremost garments in the questionnaire. Ten groups T,vere formed randomly with twenty-fÍve questionnaires each. (Appendix C) . 42 Three questÍons on religious commitment were noË discriminative, so they were eliminated. The format on belief , knowledge, practíce and consequence questions r,üere reordered to consequence, practice, knowledge and belief . ,,,,,:,,,:., The questions on consequence vùere placed foremost to re- i:":": r' move them from a religious connotaEion. Revisions in the personal daEa inventory included the addítion of two questions, country of citizenship and '.':'. :. :,,: : :,,,::,, place 6f resídence Ín PakisËan. ; :: :.:... :',''...:, .,1.',

AD}4INISTRAT ION OF QUEST IONNAIRE

A majority of research studies indicate that response rate signifícantly increases with Ëhe use of an i l advance letEer (tZ:01,2L:65,30:65). Berdie and Anderson (6:74) feel that tteven if pre-letters have no positive

: effect on response raËes, they are a courtesy, informing the subject that his time will be requested for parËici-

l pation in a studyll. i,.,r.,,.Ì,,,.,,,

Five contacts \^tere made with Lhe subjects """''.,'-"" lt'':tltt, (Appendix B)) These were' _.t' l. An advance letter 2. A cover letter and the quesËionnaire

3. The first follow-up letter i,ìt,;,,,,; 'i..:: : :: 4. The second follow-up letter 5. The third follow-up letter. An advance leËter was mailed on June 27, L975. It in- formedthe250PakisEaniwomenchosenfortshesLudyofthe 43 nature of the research and requested their assisEance in completing the questionnaires. This also served as a check on the present status of addresses of the 250 subjects. The questionnaire which included a cover letLer and a coded, stamped, self-addressed envelope was mailed on July 8, T975. The first follow-up letter was mailed on July 21, L975, approximately two weeks after the questionnaire. IË was sent to all the 250 \iüomen in the study. It l^7as a thank-you note and a reminder to the subjects to complete and return the questionnaire at their earliest convenience. As soon as a quesËionnaire was received by the researcher, the code on the envelope was matched with the mailing code and the subjectts name was taken off the mailing list A second follow-up leEter was sent approximately three weeks after the questionnaire was mailed to subjects whose names l,üere still on Ëhe mailing list. The third fo1low-up letter was sent approximately five weeks after the questionnaire was mailed. A total of eight weeks was allowed for the return of Ëhe quesEionnaires. One hundred and thirty-two questionnaires \,vere received at the end of the eighË week period, of which ten were from non-Pakistani hTomen married Eo Pakistani men, ten were from non-Pakistani Muslim women and four blank questionnaires were returned by Pakistani women. One hundred and ËTiüo questionnaires were statistically anaLyzed 44 including eleven questionnaires which had up to three questions missing in the personal data inventory.

STATISTICAL ANALYSIS OF DATA

The chi-square test of independence \^7as selected to test for significant relationships between age, education, occupation, length of residence in the lrlest, country of citizenshiP, place of residence in Pakistan and religious commiËment, and the types and sËyles of clothing worn by Pakistani lromen. This non-parametric statistic r^7as selected f or the following reasons: (t) úe scores can be expressed in frequencies, Q) the variables can be discrete and (3) the test can be used with an ordinal scale. The Pearsonrs correlation coefficient was used to test the relationship between clothing styles worn and clothing styles liked but noË \,üorn by Pakistani women. To facilitate Ehe analysís and make the data more meaningful in its interpreËation, the independent variables were classified as follows: religious commiËment score inEo Ehree groups, agê inËo five, education into three, occupation into ttío, length of residence in the lrÏest inEo five and place of residence in Pakistan into \ three. 45 LIMITATIONS

The results of the present study must be evaluated in the light of the limitations under which Ehe data was collected. 1. The sample is not representative of the toËal population of PakÍstani women residing ín Canada. It was selecËed from among the members of only ten cultural, religious, and student organizaËions. 2. The questionnaire method has its own set of limiËations, diverse meaning can be atËributed to the same question by various respondents. 3. The findings are limited to the particular Ëype and style of garment selected for this sËudy. 4. It is possible that the sketches may not have been clear to all the respondents. 5. The face validity of the measures is the only coefficient esEablished. Chapter IV

FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION .. .. . ', . .t.,.. _, . .-: : : .t. 11. ...- The purpose of this study is to investigate the clothing pïactices of Pakistani vüomen residing in Canada. Data presented in this chapter included., the cultural and ,, ,,-1..,_' '- .:1 .-j. demographíc characteristics of the sample, the relationship '""','','r ,i--..:.. -.'. between these characterístics and the clothing styles vlorn, ,,..'..,.,r'¡.'.: and Ëhe relationship between the clothing styles worn and the clothing styles liked but noE \,úorn by respondents Two hundred and fifty questionnaires r^7ere mailed Ëo respondents. Of these one hundred and thirËy-two questionnaires \^7ere received buE only 102 were anaLyzed ;

l for this study. Of the L02 questionnaires received, 9L Ì,vere compleËed while eleven missed up to Ehree questions l in the personal data inventory. This resulted in varying j . . sample sizes for each independent variable. 1.".'.",.,,',,,

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE SA}'IPLE

Age and Marital Status oE RespondenËs The 96 respondents ranged in age from Ewenty to sixty-nine with a mean age ot 29.8 years (tabte l). Of these, 23.9 percent \,r7ere from twenty to twenty-five years of age, 30.2 percent from twenEy-six to thirty years,

46 lj-l.iä-:,i

47 31.3 percenË from thirty-one to thirty-five years, 8.3 percent from thirËy-six to forty years and 6.3 percent from forty-one to sixty-nine years. Eighty-five percent of the respondents were under thirty-five years of age,

T.AtsLE 1

Frequency and Percentage Distribution by Age å.t Time of SÈudy of 96 Respondents and by Age at Time of ArrÍval Abroad of 91 Respondents

Age e at Time of Stud at Time of Arrival Abroad Group Frequency Percentage Frequency Percentage

L7 -L9 r0 11.0 20-25 23 23,9 47 5L.6

26-30 29 30.2 26 29.6

31- 35 30 31.3 4 4.4

36-40 8 8.3 1 1.1 4L and over 6 6.3 3 3.3

TOTAL 96 100.0 9L 100. 0

The age at Ëime of arrival abroad of 91 respondents ranged from seventgen to sixty-seven years, wiEh a mean of 22.9 years (table 1). Of these, 11.0 percent were from seventeen to nineteen years of age, 51.6 percent from twenty to twenty-five years of âg€, 28.6 percent from twenËy-six to thirty years of age and 818 percenE over 48 thirty-one years of age. Of the L02 respondents, 93.1 percent were married, 4.9 percent were single and 2.0 percent were widowed.

Formal EducaËion and Occupation of Respondents The respondents were categorized into three groups according Ëo the education acquired. These hTere: (t) ma- ËriculatÍon, Q) college and (3) post-graduate. Of Ëhe 101 respondents, 18.8 percent have matriculaËion status which is equivalent to a high school graduate, 49.5 percent have either graduated from college or have had one to four years of college and 3T.7 percent have post-graduate education (table 2). Twenty-two percent of the respondents acquired formal education in the lrlest (Europe, NorËh America and Australia). It varied from post-graduate training Ëo general interest courses such as English language, interior design and self improvement (table 3).

TABLE 2

Frequency and Percentage DistribuEion by L

Level of Education in Pakistan Frequency Percentage

Matriculation L9 18. I College 50 49.5

Pos t- graduate 32 3L.7

TOIAL 101 100.0 \'':: 1',: '

49 Seventy-four percent of the L02 respondents were homemakers, 22.6 percent were employed and 2.9 percent \^7ere students.

TABLE 3

Frequency and Percentage Distribution by Formal EducaEion in the Vüest of. L02 Respondents

Education in l,üestr. Frequency Percentage

No educaEion abroad 79 77 .4

Masterrs degree 4 3.9

Attended school 2 2.0 Post-graduate training I 1.0

Technicians Ëraining 2 2.0

Teachers trainíng 3 2.9

Nursing 1 1.0

Computer programming 1 1.0

General interest courses 9 8.8

TOTAL LO2 100.0

*Europe, North America and Australia.

Length of Residsnce A.broad and Cogntry of CiËizenship of Respondents Length of residence in Canada ranged from one to sixteen years with a mean of. 4.2 years. Length of residence in the lrlest (Europe, North America and Australia) 50 however, ranged from one to twenEy-one years wÍth a mean of 5.1 years. Twenty-four percent of the respondents have been in the lrlest for one year or less, 22 percen1 f.o'r 2 to 3 years, 13 percent f.or 4 to 5 years , 32 percent lor 6 to 10 years and 9 percent for 11 to 2L years (labte 4). Of the 101 respondents, 64.4 percent have resided only ín Canada, 2L.8 percent have resided in a western country other Ëhan Canada, 5.9 percent have resíded in an eastern country other than Pakistan and 7.9 percent have resided in an eastern and western counËry other than PakisËan or Canada.

TABLE 4

Frequency and Percentage Distribution by Length of Residence in the Vlest of 100 Respondents and Ín Canada oÍ. L02 Respondents

Years hlest* Canada Abroad Frequency Percentage Frequency Percentage

1 24 24,0 26 25.5 233 22 22.O 31 30.4 455 13 13.0 13 L2.7 6- 10 32 32.0 29 29.4

11 and over 9 9.0 3.0

TOTAL 100 100.0 Loz 100.0

*Europe, North America and Australia. 51 Thirty-tlüo percent of the 101 respondents are Canadian citizens. Stated citizenship of a few respondents did not coïrespond with their length of residence in Canada which implies that Ehey may have equated landed-inrnigrant status wíth ciEizenship. A person is eligible for citizerl- ship af.ter residing in Canada for a minÍmum of five years as a landed-immÍgrant. The spouse of a Canadian citizen is qualifíed for citizenship after one year as a landed- immigrant.

Place of Residence in PakisËan Place of residence in Pakistan is the city, town or village where the respondent spent most of her life. It however, may not necessarily be her hometown. Results show that 32 percent of Ëhe respondents Ì,vere from Karachi, the largest cíty in Pakistan, 23 persent lvere from Lahore, the second largest city and 11 percent had lived in eiËher Lahore or Karachi as well as other cities and towns of Pakistan (table 5). Twenty-six percent of Ehe respondents vüere from cities with a population of 8201000 Eo 3661000, while 8 percenË had lived in cities or towns where the population was 2L21000 or less.

E.tigi."" C"*it*""t Of the L02 respondents, 92.L percent are of the Sunni sect, 2.0 percent of the Shiaa sect, 2.0 percent of Ëhe Ahmaddi sect and 3.9 percent are non-sectarian. "t"

TABLE 5

Percentage Distribution by Population of the Place of Residence in Pakistan of 100 Respondents

CiËy Population Percentage ToËal

Karachi 3,469,000 32 Lahore 2,L49,000 23 A number of different cities Íncluding above 1l 66

Lyallpur 820,000 6 Hyderabad 624,000 2

Rawalpindi 615,000 7 Multan 544,000 2

Peshawar 366,000 7 A number of different ciËies íncluding above 26 0thers Below 2L2,O00 I I

TOTAL 100

The religious commitment scores were assigned as ! ,-'.t-.: follows: 38 to 54 as noË too religious, 55 to 7L as fairly religious, 72 to 88 as very religious and 89 to 105 as extremely religiolts. Scores of 100 respondents ranged from 39 to 99, with a mean of 78.1 (Figure l). Data shows thaE 13.8 percent of the respondents were extremely 1..'..\'.'--"-.

t¡J ()z l,¡J É. f (J oc) olr C)z IJ o= UJ E. tL 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 '80 85 90 95 -4 -49 -54 -59 -64 -69 -74 -79 -84 -89 -94 -99

RELIGIOUS COMMITMENT SCORES

FIGURE I

FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTION BY RELIGIOUS COMMIIMENT SCORES OF IOO RESPONDENTS. 54 religious, 63.4 percent were very religious, 2L.8 percent riüere fairly religious and 1 percent was not too religious. It is interesting to note however, that the respondents assessment of their personal religious commitment differed 1:,1:,¡,¡. from the results of theír religious commitmenË score. Of '::1: r',' the 100 respondents, 5.9 percent felt they \,vere extremely religious, 19.8 percent were very religious, 68.4 percent

.:t , were fairly religious and 5.9 percent were not Ëoo re- i',',;1,,,i;,,,,,,, ligious. This discrepancy seems to point out that religion ,,,., ,,, ., ::'':¡'::" has varying interpretations and meaning for different r: indíviduals.

CLOTHING PRACTICES OF PAK]STANI üüCN,IEN IN THE SAN,IPLE

DaËa collected on the clothing pracËices of the respondents focused on the acquisition of clothing, and Ëhe husbands interest in the respondents I t¡pes and styles of clothing r^7orn. Results show that 85.3 percent of the respondenEs sew all or a few of their clothes, while L4.7 percent do not sew any of their cloËhes (table 6). On the other hand, 93 percent of the respondents buy all or a few of their clothes, while 6.9 percent do not buy any of their clothes (tabte 6). This indicates Ëo the researcher that most respondents could sew the types and styles of garments they wanted Ëo wear if these r^7ere not readíly available in the market. 55

TABLE 6

Frequency and PercenËage DÍstribuEion of the Sewing and Buying Habits of 102 Respondents

Frequency Percentage Habits Sew Buy Sew Buy

All of their clothes 10 10 9.8 9.8 Most of their clothes 37 28 36.3 27 .4

A few of their clothes 40 57 39.2 55.9

None of their clothes 15 7 L4,7 6.9

TOTAL L02 L02 100. 0 100.0

Of the L02 respondents, 88 percent received some clothing from Pakistan (table 7). Besides receiving the traditional garments, a few of the respondents received oËher garments such as pantsuits, pants and gowns. IË is possible that clothing received from Pakistan influenced Ëhe clothing practices of the respondents. Fifty percenE of the respondenEs stated Ëhat their husbands are very interested in the types and sËyles of clothing they !üear, 28.4 percent stated their husbands are somewhaË interested, L3.7 percent have husbands whose interest is neuËral , 7.4 percent have hesbands who show very liEtle interest and I percent have husbands who do not show interest aË all. 56

TABLE 7

Frequency and PercenËage Dístríbution of the Types of Clothing Received from Pakistan by 89 Respondents

CloEhing ltems Frequency Percentage*

Shalwar s4 60.7

I(¿n.Lz 59 66.3

Saris 67 75.3 Kurta 62 69.7

P etti coaË 28 31. 5 Gharara ensemble 34 38.2 Sari blouses 59 66 .3 Churidar-pyjama L6 19.0

Other 9 10. 1

tTotal adds to more Ehan a 100% because of multÍple answers.

The different Ëypes and styles of garments husbands liked according to 96 respondents are presented in Tables 8 and 9. Eighty-one percent sEated thaË their husbands liked saris, 65.9 percent liked shalwar kamiz and dupatta ensembles and 54.3 percent liked pantsuits. Swim- suits, dresses and skirts were liked by less Ëhan 10 percent of the husbands. I¡,lhile 2 percent stated that their husbands left iË up to them Ëo choose Ëhe types of clothing Ëhey vüear. Data also shows that 9.9 percent of 57

TABLE 8

Frequency and Percentage Distribution of the Types of Clothing Liked by Husbands of 96 Respondents

T¡pes of Clothing Frequency PercenEage*

Pantsuits 5t 54.3

SwimsuiEs 7 7.4

Dresses and/or skirts 4 4..3 Pants and blouse 30 31.9

Long goÌ^7n 4L 43.6

Sari 76 80.9 Shalwar kamí-z and dupatta 62 6s.9

Pant, lrcatní-z and dupatta 48 51.1 PanEsuit with dupatta 30 31.9

Other 4 4.3

*Total adds Ëo more than .100 percent because of multiple ânsÌ,üers . the respondents stated that their husbands liked tightly fiËËed clothes , 22.0 percent liked sleeveless clothes and L4.3 percent liked clothes with low necklines (faUfe 9). FitLed clothes r^7ere lÍked by 43.9. percent of Ëhe husbands, one-quarter to three-quarter length sleeves \47ere liked by 51.6 percent and medium necklines by 68.1 percent. Loosely fitted cloËhes were liked by 38.5 percent, full length sleeves by 50.5 percent and high necklines by 39.6 percent

- : .l: :r:::. . i ::: ::.

TABLE 9

Frequency and PercenEage Distribution of the 'Stylás of Clothing"Liked by Husbands of 96 Respondents

Styles of Clothing Frequency Percentageti

TighËly fitted clothes 9 9.9 Sleeveless clothes 20 22.0

Clothes wiEh low neckline 1..13 L4.3

Fitted clothes 40 43.9 CloËhes wiEh ooê:quarter length sleeves 47 5L.6

CloEhes with Ëhree-quarter 'i. lengËh sleeves 47 51.6 Clothes with medium neckline 62 68. 1

Loosely fitted clothes 35 38.5 Clothes with full length sleeves 46 50.5 Clothes with high neckline 36 39'.6

*Total adds Eo more Ehan 100"/" because of mulËiple answers. of the husbands. Five percent of the 96 respondents stated that their husbands left it up to them to choose the sËyles they \^7ear. These percentages indicate that clothing styles which are categorized in Lhis sËudy as moderate, such as fitted clothes, one-quarter and three-quarter sleeve length and medium necklines vüere the most popular among ,.:": : ,' 59 the respondents t husbands. A burqura or some other form of head covering is worn by some adult women in Pakistan. This practice per- sists among the conservaËive and orthodox Muslim families. Of Ëhe TO2 respondents residing in Canada, 52 percent had It7orn a burqura before they \^7ere married while L9.6 percent had worn it after they were married. A possible explanation for this decrease may be that some \^7omen were married ínto families where the burqura was not worn while others may have left Pakistan soon after they were married. A burqura or other form of head coveríng conceals the body, and taking it off may make the wearer feel exposed.

TYPES AND STYLES OF CLOTHING T/üORN BY RESPONDENTS

The different types and sËyles of clothing worn by the 102 respondents are presented in Table 10. Results show that pantsuits were \^7orn by 93.1 percent, swimsuÍts by 18.6 percent, gowns by 7L,6 percent and sleepwear by 90.2 percent of the respondents. Of the five different style categories the conservative style of these garments was most popular while the liberal style was the least popular. Dresses r^7ere worn by onLy 2.9 percenE of the respondents, while blouses \,üere worn by 74.5 percenË of the respondents. The moderately conservative sËyte of blouse lvas worn by more respondents than any other styles given. TABLE 10 Percentage Distribution of the T¡rpes and Styles of Clothing !'lorn by L02 Respondents

Types of Garments lrlestern Garments: Pantsuits 72.6 45.3 69 .5 34.7 9.5 9 3'.1 Swimsuits 85.9 26.3 15.8 26.3 10. 5 18. 6

Dresses 0.0 66.7 0.0 33. 3 0.0 2,9

Blouses 69.4 81.6 7 3.7 1.3 2.6 7 4;5 Gowns 68.5 65.7 60. 3 L2.3 4.r 7L.6 Sleepwear 52.L 43.5 47.8 42,4 16. 3 90.2 Eastern Garments: Shalwar kamiz 34.0 64.8 63.7 u:.' 24.2 89.2 Saris 42.6 69.L 58. 5 92.L Sari blouses L7.0 26.6 54.2 51.1 2L.8 92.L

aTotal of style categories adds resPonses. bP"r""rrtage respondents who \^7ear the different types of garments given. Or of O

ii. '. .\tt ii, 6L Data indicates that the conservative to moderate styles of pantsuit, blouse and go\^7n ldere \iüorn comparatively more than the moderately liberal and liberal sty.les of the same garments. The liberal style sleepwear was worn by L6.3 percent of the respondents. The shorË halËer style negligee has a low neckline and e>rposes the legs, arms and back. It is possible that this style was chosen more than the other liberal styles because it is worn in the privacy of the home and/or bedroorn. Findings show that Ëhe shalwar kamiz was worn by 89.2 percent of the respondents. Of these, 64.8 percent wore the moderately conservative sËyle while 24.2 percent wore the liberal style. The sari rltTas worn by 92.1 percent of the respondents, witLr the moderate style being worn by 69,L percent:and the conservaËive style by 42.6 percent. Similarly, sari blouses were worn by 92.1 pe::cenE and of Ëhís group 54.2 percent wore the modetate style while 17 percent wore the conset vative style. The liberal styles of the eastern garments aPpear to be more popular among the respondents as compared to the liberal styles of Ehe western garments. This may be because body e>çosure in eastern garments is of a different type and amounË than western garments. Respondents may also have been more familiar and used to the liberal styles of eastern garments. The resulËs indicate that respondents wore western garments which were similar to their traditional garments 62 in terms of type and amount of body exposure. These findings are contrary to Barclayts (Szlt) observations of Lebanese Muslims residing in Canada. He felt that the minority status of the Lebanese Muslims and their exposure to a Canadian milieu led to the use of rrflimsy cloËhingrr by women. Findings show Ehat 85 percent of the respondents se\iü some of their clothes and 87 percent of the respondents receive some clothing from PakisËan. In sp,ite of Ëhese alternatives, PakisËani rÁ7omen residing in Canada choose to \,vear western as well as eastern garmenEs. Lai (ZS:7t), in her study on Chinese immigrants observed that changes in behaviour depended upon the availability of cultural a1Ëernatives . The differenË types of garments hTorn for different activities by 100 respondents are Presented in Figures 2 Eo 6. Respondents were asked to indicate all garments they would wear for each activiEy given. FifËy-five pêr- cent of the respondents riüore saris and 49 percent wore pantsuits when entertaining Canadians at home, while 68 percent vüore shalwar kamíz and 57 percent wore saris when entertaining Pakistanis at home (Figure 2). Vühen entertaining in a restaurant, 5l perccent of the respondents r^7ore pantsuiEs when with Canadians while 52 percent wore saris when with Pakistanis (Figure 2). Vühen visiting Pakistani friends, saris and shalwar kamiz were worn by 76 percent and 58 percent of the respondents, respecËively. 63 Pantsuits üJere tvorn by 53 percent of the respondents when visiting Canadian friends (Figure 3). On ouËings or picnics, 49 percent of the respondents wore par-ltsuits when with Canadians and 42 percent \,,7ore shalwar kamí-z and 40 percent wore pantsuits when with Pakistanis (Figure 5). Fifty-nine percent of the respondenEs wore pantsuits while shopping. Sixty-four pencent ldore shalwar kanLz aË home. ThirËy-seven percent of the respondents indicated that Ehey Tiüore pantsuits Ëo work (Figure 6). The above resulËs indicate Ëhat the shalwar kamLz was worn comparaËively more in the comPany of Pakistanis while panEsuits were more popular when among Canadian friends. This can be an effort by Pakistani women to as- similate the clothing practices of Canadian women. A few respondents menËioned however, that they try to dress like Canadians to avoid attention. Similar cloEhing behavíour may also help gain grouP approval and accepËance. On the other hand in the company of Pakistanis the shalwar kantíz was hTorn by more respondents than the other garments. This may be an attempt by respondents to retain some of Eheir social customs (12:55). These findings indicate Eo the researcher that respondents tend Ëo dress like Ëhe group wiEh which they Í.raternLze. Sixty-three percenE of the respondents wore shalwar karrtLz, and 57 percent indicated that they also wore the sari on religious occasíons. The sari was also worn by 81 percent of the respondents during cultural t, lì t. ir ii

i: i

ø ENTERTAIN I NG PAKISTAN IS AT HOME ()lrJ 70 n ENTERTAINING CANADIANS AT HOME z E ENTERTAI NING PAKISTA NI S AT RESTAURANT l¡J E 60 B ENTERTA INING CANAD IANS AT RESIAURANT (J=) 50 oO ou- ()z l¡J 20 o3 LJ æ lo l¡-

PANTSUITS GOWNS PANTS, BTOUSE PANTS SARI SHALWAR GHARARA PANTSUIT KAMIZ lGIvllZ DUpATTA DUpATTA

FIGURE 2 FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTION OF GARMENTS WORN BY IOO RESPONDENTS WHILE ENTERTAINING PAKISTANIS AND CANADIANS. .Or Þ

rii: _:t 65

VISITING PAKISTANI FRIENDS IJ VISTTING CANADIAN FRIENDS 0()tz lJ^ É,E l ()F oC)V ot¡- 4 c)z lJ^ :f¿ IJo LEl

PANTSUITS GOWNS MNTS,BLqJSE PANTS SARI SHA¡IIúAR GHAMRA PANTSUTT KAMIZ KAMIZ DUPATTA DTJPATTA

FIGURE 3

FREOUENCY DISTRIBUTION OF GARMENTS WORN BY IOO RESPONDENTS WHILE VISITING PAKISTANIS AND CAMDIANS. I r:{',:,:.1.ii

CULTURAL GATHERINGS ()¡J RELIGIOUS OCCASIONS z l.¡J É. f O oc) L o C)z IJ gf tIJ E, u-

PANTSUITS PÁlrxs,BLousE . PANTS SARI SHALWAR GHARARA PANITSUT KAMIZ I(AMIZ DUPATTA DUPATTA

FIGURE 4

FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTION OF GARMENTS WORN BY IOO RESPONDENTS ON RELIGIOUS AND CUTTUML OCCASIONS. Ø owmc oR PrcNrc wrrH PAKrsrANts owruG oR PrcNrc wrrH cANADTANS ()l¡J 70 I z El ar rHE swrMMrNG PooL l¡J 60 BEAcH E, El al rHE :f C) 50 oO 40 oLr- (Jz o5?.0 Hro tL o PANTSUTTS GOWNS PANTS,BLOUSE PANTS SARI S¡IAUVAN GHARARA PANTSUIT KAMIZ SWMSUTTS KAM IZ DUPATTA DUPATTA

FIGURE 5

FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTION OF GARMENTS WORN BY ¡OO RESPONDENTS FOR RECREA'I'] ONAL ACTIVITI ES . {Or Ø AT HOME ()l¡J z I AT WORK l¿J E SHOPPING E. f O oC) 50 ob- () t!z o'f 20 l¡JE L lo o PAI\TTSUTTS GOWNS PANTS,E-OI.EE PANTS , SARI SHALWAR GHARAM PANTSUIT KAMIZ KAMIZ ) ',

FIGURE 6

FREQUENCY DISTRIzuTION OF GARM ENTS WORN BY IOO RESPONDENTS WHILE

AT HOME . AT WORK AND WHILE SHOPPING. o\ oo

-':ì_i;-' r :;.i: .:;! 'i'.r' 69 gatherings (Figure 3). Very few women go for a swim even though separate facilities are available for men and women in Pakistan. Data shows that 19 percent of the women wore s,wimsuits for swimming at the pool, while 5 percent wore swimsuits at the beach (Figure 5). A possible explanation for this may be that activities oËher than swimming are done at the beach.

Eel"tionsnip BeC and the Styles They Liked but lrlould not lrlear The Pearsonts correlation coefficient was used to anaLyze the relationship beËween clothing styles PakisEani women wore and the styles they liked buE would not wear. These variables were each coded from 5 to I ranging from conservatise to liberal. The score used as a repïe- sentative score for Ëhe clothing styles Ì,vorn lr7as the most liberal style respondents had worn or would consider wearing in the future. Simíl arLy, the score of Ëhe most liberal of the styles liked but not rivorn \iüas chosen. as the representative score for Ëhe style liked but would not riüear. Since Islam enjoins i.ts women believers to dress conservatively covering all parËs of the body except the hands, face and feeË. The most liberal of the clotshing styles used in the study was selected to invesËigate the effect of religion on Lhe cloEhing behaviorur of respondents, and to explore the deviations from the clothing re- sËrictions placed by Islam. i...... "r 70 Data shows that pantsuits vüere worn by 95 respondents (rabte 1I). of the L02 respondents, 47 indicated the styles they liked but would not wear. Forty- Ëhree of the 47 wore pantsuits. The correlation coef- ficienË computed for these 43 respondents who hTore pantsuits and liked buË would not \iüear certain pantsuit sËyles r,\7as significantly different from zero at the .05 level (table L2). This índicates Ëhat respondents liked more tiberal styles than the ones they rvore. AlmosË one-half of trre 47 respondents liked but would noE \^7ear the liberal sËyle of pantsuit (table 13). The reason given by 11 of these..respondents for not wearing the liberal style of pa¡tsuit was that it did not suit Eheir figure. Figure problems \iüere also the most frequenE reason given for not wearing panE.suit styles that 'were liked. Swimsuits T^7ere \^7orn by 24 respondents (table 11). Of the 102 respondents, 40 indicaced thq styl.es Ehey liked brlt would not h7ear. Almost one-half of Ëhe 40 respondents li-ked but would noË wear Ëhe liberal style of swimsuit (table 13). Fourteen of them would noE wear the liberal sËyle of swimsuit because they felt iË was nude, naked or e>çosed. It is interesting to note that 62 respondents d,id not care to indicate Ehe swimsuit styles they liked but would not vüear. However, 33 of them stated that swimsuits hTere againsË religion, and 27 f.eLt they r,vere nude, naked or exposed. 7L Dresses Ì^7ere \,vorn by only 3 respondents (fable 11). Of the 30 respondents who liked but would not rdear dresses, 11 liked the moderate style of dress (fable 13). Seven respondents would not Ì,vear this style because it was con- i...:- :,:: sidered against religion. Seventy-two respondents did not indicate the sEyles they liked but would not lvear. Never- theles s, 4L of them stated that dresses lvere against religion, and 25 felt they were nude, naked or e>çosed. Results indícate that blouses lvere worn by 85 respondents (table 11). Of the 102 respondents, 54 indicated the styles they liked but would not wear (table 13). Thirty-two liked the liberal style of blouse and almost one-half of them wor¡.ld not wear this sËyle because it was nu$e, naked or exposed. This was also Ëhe most frequent reason for not wearing blouse styles thaE !üere liked. Gowns were r,vorn by 87 respondents (table 11). of the LO2 respondents in the study, 55-indicated the styles Ëhey liked but would noË \,vear. Forty-nine of the 55 wore gonns. The correlation coefficienË computed for these 49 respondents who worq gowns and liked but would not wear certain gown styles was significantly different from zero at the .OZ level (tabte t2):. This indicates that respondents lÍked more liberal styles lhan the ones they lvore. Twenty-six respondents liked the liberal style of gown and 15 of them felt it was nude, naked or e>çosed (table 13). This was also the most frequent reason given for not wearing the gown styles Ëhat vüere liked. TABLE 11 Frequency Distribution of the Types and SËyles of Clothing L02 Respondents lrlore' and !üould lrlear in the Future

Stvle Cate Ol.IES Types of Garments Conservative Mod. Cons. Moderate Mod. Lib. Liberal Al1 Styles* Iiüestern Garments: Pantsuits r0 6 29 37 13 95 Swimsuits 7 6 I 8 2 24 Dresses 0 0 1 2 0 3

Blouses 6 9 63 4 3 85 Gowns 11 t5 49 9 3 87 Sleepwear 6 I 32 26 24 96 l

l I

Eastern Garments: l I

1 Shalwar KamLz 1 13 43 34 97 I I Saris 77 22 65 94 I i I

I I Sari blouses 0 30 38 23 94 I I

I *The wearing or not wearíng of the different garment t¡4pes. I I

I \¡ ¡ N) I

I I

I I I I I

:¡il

. :. ,., ' I'i; ¡li *i71i:::j

TABLE L2

Pearsonrs Correlation Coefficíent for Clothing Styles Pakistani Vüomen l.Iore and the Styles They Liked but lrlould not !üear

Level of T5rpes of Garments r significance N

ülestern Garments:

PantsuiËs .319 .05 43 Swimsuits Dresses Blouses

Gowns, .366 .02 49 Sleepwear -.255 N. S. 4L

Eastern Garments: Shalwar kamLz - ,269 N. S. 34 Saris -.684 .01 20 Sari blouses -.307 .05 43

N.S. - not significant

Sleepwear was worn by 96 respondents (table 11). Forty-four respondents indicated the styles they liked but ,:::.::: would not wear and forty-one of them vüore sleepwear. The ,,.,,,1,.. correlation coefficient computed for these 41 respondents was not significanËly different from zero (table LZ). Of the 44 respondents, L9 liked the moderately liberal st¡zle

:,;l.::':::.:: F ç g fü ô 6õ 6 ô q ô ñ¡ ôd6Þ= F I Þ r Þ f O Þ ü z Fh ù d-/.ñots bñ o ërxG Þ o ô b ø ,uø .o È ts É o! o . !È F É o ædJ 4 ô F f o o d o 5 0.o d d ts Þ5 iq É n ñ. f¡XÉ6 ts!TF tr o ô f ô 6 ôt = 'o o HAø ñ áf. vts .Þ tstroo

do çr Éz F> Þo EzEo tsoooÞu Cohsårv. t O O Þ O ñ. DøOÞø F 4 Þ . ) ÉO o 5 Ð Z Fñ o-oþu Hod. Cons. ÈzdoP Þ ñ PF o drxô a. Ò D ô ø Zø FOPONS Hodera Èe o À P a o! F 6 t F F ÉO o @ñl ' oz ox É co ÞèÞÞ!Ë Hod. Lfb. Þ Ê) d ão F! ÞÞoo cn õ æ 4ñ c F X .Ê ø 'PN Ltberal o F!d.d ts5ôþFO . F O õ tg Þ o @ oc .oo tsFNÀ To Èal v) HÈ.ø s. P o 5 Þ { . ñ dts YF t-h ' P?I 9F{èP Do Not Llke 6ôo o OÓHNON Consen. Ft

o0Poots Hod. Cons. 5 Þ9tooN€ Conserv. o FPbFP{ HóderaÈd. 11 o. o. o o o _0 Hod. Cons. .,{ PÞ l PP-tsOCts Hod. Llb. o oPoooF Hodera J te FP 0) tst ON55o'o Llberer. ÞNOtsts{ Þ Hod. Llb. H. NFNO{O ÞÞÀ To taI F€S50Þ 'NO 5 o Liberal ! o.o{u.ñ Do Not Llke 0q {PSU9Þ. Total { cPoÞÞP Conserv. ct ourbu Do Not Llke tsoþNos ¡lod. ConBi o NèOOÞP Conserv. '' F C)IJ 6 oñ)b{oP ¡foderate H oÞJ Mod. öons. x .l-.o o o ñ l'lod . Llb. ' r-t f{ NPOOOe Hodera te cN5ÞN@ 5 t-fl Llberal H. t4 5H tlod.- Llb. ' HtsÞ Total I 0) NôN9NO 0qþ V') oNooou PÞ5 Liberal cï: oouPs Do Not Like cn À{ooFN o cf â Total Ft OPHF Congery. [email protected] 5 H Do NoÈ Ltke FPHPOs Mod, Cons. o PPOONU C) ln Conse rv . Ê) PNNNNÞ Fl Mod era È e F ooooPF Hod. Con6. ts OP@NNts Hod. Ltb, ID o Ø OPPPtsÞ Hodcrate. Ð PNtsPtsÞ N Llberal OPQtsPU rt o Hoil , Ltb. Ø H ôONHHU To ta1 sopò!o 6{bÞ o. L fberal "o ñÞ o,FF@U N Do NoÈ Llke H U9PPPS otsÞ6 Tota I ct otsooFN Congerv. Ø PUP@@ Do Not Ltkà tstsÞoNP { Hod, Cona. H.r NHOOOÞ Hod era Èe o P P €. € N { Hod. Ltb. o. êoH{uN u6 LfbcrRl FSNPP'U {oou ToÈal ONts@þ Do Not Llke

P P',N H P Þ Conserv,

FPOOO- Hod. Cons.

ÞooooN Hod cra t! . ,L NOOUÞP 'o Hod. Lfb. É(36++.Þ.ó Llbcral { ó p '. ñ } cè lotÂ1 ôH@Oñ' ni) Not Ll[.

;.:i¡;.i:l:l 75 of sleepwear and 18 líked but would not \^7ear the liberal style of sleepwear (table 13), The most frequent reason given for sleepwear styles liked but would not hTear was thaË these were nude, naked or e>cposed. Findings indÍcate that shalwar kamÍ-z was worn by 97 respondents (Table l1). Thirty-seven respondenËs indicated the styles Ëhey liked and 34 of them Ì^7ore shalwar kamÍ-z. The.corrêlation coefficient computed for Ëhese 34 respondents was not significanËly dífferent from zero (tabte L2). Of the 37 respondents , 20 liked but would not \,vear the liberal style of shalwar kamLz (lable 13). Nine respondents stated ËhaE the líberal style of shalwar kamLz was not liked by their husbands. Husbands dislike Ì,vas. also the most frequent reason gi-ven for not wearing sha'lwar kantLz sËyles that were liked.

Sari \47as \^7orn by 94 respondenËs (fable 11). Of Ëhe 102 respondents, 24 LndLcated Ëhe styles liked but would not wear. , Twenty of Ehe 24 lvore saris. The correlation coefficient computed for these 20 respondents who woTe saris and liked but would not wear certain sari styles was significanËly different from zero at the .01 level (table L2). The negative relaÈionship indicates that respondents wore more liberal styles while Ëhey liked but would not wear Ëhe more conservaËive sËyles. Fifteen of th,e 24 respondents liked but would not \^7ear Ëhe conserva- Eive style of sari (table 13). The reason given by 8 of these respondenEs for not wearing the conservative sËyle 76 ' :' of sari \^7as that it did not suit their figure. Figure problems were the most frequent reason for not wearing sari styles that lvere liked. Sari blouses \^7ere worn by 94 respondents (tabte ,,,t,t,,,,, 11). Of the 46 respondents who indicated the styles Ëhey ::.: liked but would not ïvear, 43 \^7ore sari blouses. The correlation coefficient computed for these 43 respondents

\,vas significanEly differenË zero Ehe ,..:',,',, from aE .05 level ' ', :.

(table L2). This negative relatíonship indicates Ëhat ,,,,,,,,., ;':.'::: respondents who T^7ore the moderately conservative to moderately liberal sty$es of sari blouses, liked buE would not wear the liberal style of sari blouse. V'lhile, Tê- l

I spondents who lvore the moderate to liberal styles of sari l blouses liked would riüear more l but not the conservative , styles. Almost three-fourths of Ehe 46 respondents liked but would noE r^7ear the liberal style of sari blouse (table i

: 13). The reason given by L2 of them for not wearing the liberal style of blouse was that it was nude, sari naked :,1,,,.,,, or exposed. , .,,,. These resqilr.ts indicate that respondents liked buË ' ' would not vTear Ehe liberal sËyle of pantsuiË, swimsuit, blouse, gol^7n, shalwar kamiz and sari blouse. Ho\,vever, Ëhe reasons for not wearing this style varied. Reasons for ,,. ,..,'., not wearing swimsuits and dresses hTere that these garments wereconsideredagainstre1igionandnude,nakedorexposed by many respondents including those who indicated the styles Ëhey liked but would not wear and Ëhose who did not ,i.i.,,,:,. I.i.t -'-,

77 indicate the styles tiked. Compared to other western garments these two have the greatest body e>cposure. Bare legs may have been the reason why many \,r7omen considered these two garments against religion. The liberal style of ,,,.. blouse, gown, sleepwear, sari blouse and the moderaEely liberal sleepwear style was considered nude, naked or e>cposed by many respondents. These garments are quite .,,., ; ... similar to the traditional garmenËs and so iË seems that ,',i':,,',',' ::.::,i: : low necklines and sleeveless garments are considered ex- ,¡, 1, i::::ì'::j' posed rather Ëhan against relígion. The reasons given by respondents for not wearing the styles they liked indicates Ëo the researcher that modesty influences their clothing selection. These findings are substantiated by Harrists ' (zo:oz)conc1usionthatmodestywasclose1yassociated with the clothing adjgstment of immigranË women in her sËudy on a specified grîoup of Indian and Chinese immigrant women.

Relationship Between Religious Commitment and Ëhe Types i,;,.,,r,,,:, and Styles ofjlg!þing_Worn !y Respondents ',,,,,,,,,.. :':';:"r'' The chi-square test was used to analyze the re- laEionship between religious commiËment and the different types and styles of cloEhing ü7orn. A separate chi-square ,,,._..,., analysis \,úas done for each independent variable and each 1,. ' ,, .i style categor¡2. A summary of chi-square values is presented in Table 11, while individual tables for significant chi-square relationships are presented in Appendix E TabLe 23. ,': if;¡:iti'iiii:i;i.r#:ìi

rABLt L4

, Chi-square*.'ilåli":"3"Hii3ilfl}u'5î"-:$:Îå:g.lty1e Values Showing Relationship BeEween

Stvl-e Cateeories Types of Gãr¡oents Conservative lqod. Cons. Moderate I'lod.. Lib. Liberal A1I Stylesc

Ifestèrn Gannents: Pantsuits r.88 O.59 2.5e 5.ß 2.O3 1.87 1..-.. i , . .t-.1... .:j_:1. .. Swimsuits 8.4?**b a a .¡ a a . 5.51x ... r.: 1ll:.- ' Diesses a ,a a ' Blouses ,.2O 2¿27 8.75*x a a 5.81+

Gowns o ot i. tg o.5t . 6.59+* 1,41 Sleepwear 0.66 1.95 0.42 8.96** 4.76* O.zt

Eastern Ge:'oents: Shalr¡ar Kamíz 1.S4 4.BO* 4.r5 1.74 10.59*xx 4.65x Saris .1.04 1.91 0.66 2.94 Sarl Blouses.: 1.71 4.16 5;16* O.g4 12.27xxx ' 2.94

: Degrees of freeclom = 2 *** 1^--i l. r..r... - Sig'nificant at the .Ol^a level. I .r¡.,i.ì.,,;;..; .¡::,; :;:t t:]¡t; i: ** - significant at the .05 iever. * i..'.,,t.'1f...1.' - significant at the . io leve1. : i :;..:.-..;¡.;,:,::.r; :, a - Insufficient úumber of respontlents for statistical analysis. b - See Âppendix E - Table 27 for the futl tables of aL1 significant X2. c - The wearing or not wearLng of the cllfferent garment type.s. 79 Data shows a significant relationship at the .01 level between religious commitment and the wearing of the liberal styles of shalwar kamiz and sari blouse. significant relationghip at the .05 level was also found between religious commitment and the wearing of the conservative style of swimsuit, the moderate style of blouse, and moderaËely liberal styles of gown and sleepwear. The results indicaËe an inverse relationship between religious commitment scores and the wearing of the above clothing styles. These garments lvere worn less by respondents with high religious commitment scores. This indicates to the researcher Ehat respondents with high religious commitment scores follow the clothing restrictions placed by rslam more so than Ëhose respondents with low religious s.cores. Nevertheless, some respondents commented that the wearing of certain types and styles of clothing was not affected by their religious conrnitment. These results are substantiated by both the sËudy of Griesman (tl:ø0) and Huber (23262). Griesman found that the more orthodox girls agreed with the attitude of the seventh-Day Adventist church towards clothing and were less interested in clothes. Similarly, Huberrs study showed that religious participaEion correlated significantly with a conservative score in clothing. Klienlinefs (Z+:øl ) study on MennonÍte women does noË however support thís studyts findings for she found no direct relationship û"t¡ r.':- ,

80 between conservativeness of dress and church attendance- participation score. These three studies r^7ere done using different religious groups measuring different criteria for religious commitment; Ëhfs ,Eherefore may be the cause for the inconsístency of the results. Data also shows a relationship at Ëhe .10 1evel of significance be.Ëween relígious commitment and the wearing of blouses, swímsuits and the liberal style of sleepwear. These garments \^7ere worn more by respondents wiËh low religious commitment scores. The wearing of Ëhe moderately conservatÍve style of shalwar kamiz and the moderaËe style of sari blouse was positively associated with religious commitment at the .10 level of significance. Respondents with high religious commitment scores tend to wear these garments more than those with low scores. These two styles are worn by Ëhe majority of the women in Pakistan and are considered conservative. It is interesting to note that few respondents chose the liberal style of s!üimsuit, dress, blouse and goT¡;n used in Ëhis study. These particular sËyles have the greatest amount of body exposure, thereby, grossly devi- ating from the cloEhing restrictions placed by Islam. This suggests to the researcher that culÈural ínfluence p1ay an important role in the selectÍon of clothing styles by Pakistani Ì,vomen residing in Canada. 81 Relationship found between religious cornrnitment and clothing styles was based on the religious commitment scores of the respondents. The fact that respondentsr assessment of their relígious commitment is quite different from their religious commiËment scores may have affected the relationship between relígious commitment and clothing styles.

Relationship BeÇween Age and the Types and Styles of Vüorn bv Respondents af-iõ--Çlgthing

No significant relationship was found between age and Ehe different types and styles of clothing \,vorn by 96 respondenËs (table 15). Although age is categorized as an important facËor in Ëhe adaptation process (A:ZO¡, it-" is possible that age may not have been a sËatistically significant factor in the adoption of certain types and styles of clothing in this study because there was an insufficient age spread among the respondents. Eighty-five percent of the respondents \^7ere under thirty-five years of age.

A relationship at the .10 level of significance was found between age and wearing of the_ conse.rvative style of sari blouse (Table L5, Appendix E - Table 24). The 3I-35 and 4L-69 year age groups tended to vüear this style more than other age groups Ín the sËudy. The sketching of the full length sleeves of the conservaËive style of sari blouse may have been misËaken f.or a sleeveless style, r':. :' .:

TABLE 15

Chi-square Values Showing Relationship Between Age and the Clothing.Style ['Iorn a'nd noË I^Iorn by 96 Respondents

Stv1e Cateeories Types of Garments Conse¡vative Itiod. Cons. I'iode ra te Liberal AII Sty1es

h'esterg Garnents: Pantsuits 2.e1 4.66 0.57 3.52 2.O4 2.?3

Swiosuits 1.53 .s, a a 2.67

Dresqes a e a .a a a Blouses ,.20 1.67 3.84 a 7.42 j ' Go¡,rns 2.81 1,15i 2.81 5.Ot ,a 4.69 Sleepwear 1.91 2;16 1.?3 ¿.o I 1.40' 5.11

Eastern Garments:

Shalr¡ar Y.aøíz o.67 . 5.O4 . 0.59 4.29 1.20 7.O9 Saris 2.92 2.24 2.42 1 .50

Sari Blouses 9.02*b 1 .21 1.96 0¡54 3.A2 I .50

Degrees of freedon = 4 * - Significant at the .10 Ievel. a - Insufficient nunbe¡ of respondents for statistical analysis. b - See Àppendix E - Table 24 for tbe full tables of all significant X2. c - Îhe nearing or not wearing of the d{fferent garment types. 83 Ehereby resulting in the above trend. The researcher felt that age at time of arrival abroad may have influenced the adoption of western clothing. A significant relationship at the .05 level was found between age at time of arrival abroad and the wearing of sleepwear, shalwar kamLz, saris, sari blouses and the conservative style of sari (tabte L6, Appendix E - Table 25). Data shows that western sleepwear was l,rTorn by all respondents.lT-20 years of age. The conservative style of sari was worn more by respondents over 31 yeaTs of age at time of arrival abroad. The wearing of shalwar kamLz, saris and sari blouses was more popular among certain age groups (Appendix E - Table 25). This may have been the influence of the clothíng practices of respondents while in Pakistan. Data shows a relationship aË the .10 level of significance between age at time of arrival abroad and the wearíng of panËsuits and gowns. These garments were more popular among certain age groups (Appendix E - Table 2s). Findings indicate that western garments were \,vorn comparatively more by respondents under 30 years of age at time of arrival abroad. A possible explan4tion may be the increased contact younger respondenËs have had with western media such asrmovies, television and magazines while in Pakistan. ConEact and acquaintance with people who have 84

TABLE 16

Chi-square Values Showing RelaËionship Between Age at Tirne of Arrival Abroad and- the clothíng rrrorn iltåî H::;"åä:"t3' ':-..-

Style Categories Types of Garneats Conse¡vative I'lod. Cons. I'loderate I'íod. Lib. Liberal A1I Stylesc l{estern Ga¡nents: : . ,:,,,,, l. , Penisuits. 2.Zg O.?e 2.¡1¡6 j.46 i. j9 6.95* .1 Suinsuits 0,67 a a a O.2B ,e ::t.,'ì,i:': .:: ì:. Dressesaaaaaa Slouses 0.94 0.64 1.51 a a j.Oz

Gowns 3.5o o.8j 2.41 1.55 a 6-B2x Sleepwear . 7.11 O.88 0.19 2.>4 4.26 9.91** i 'i i

Easte¡n Garnents: i Shalçar Kaniz. 4.16 2.17 O.2O 0.76 0.48 9.60**. l Saris 9.54**b

Sá¡i Blouses O. 18 1,43. 1.16 1.27 1 .1, 9. t4**

Degrees of freedoni = J ** - Slgnlficant at the .O5 level. * - Significant at the .1O Ievel. a - Insufficient nunber of respontlents for statistical analysis. b - See Âppendix E - Table 25 for the ful1 tåb1es of all significant X2.. c - The wearing or not nearing of the clifferent garment types. 85 been abroad perhaps also prepared them for the change they would experience abroad. This however is more applicable Eo the younger respondents than the older respondents who may be set in their clothing habits.

Relationship Between Educatíon and the Trpes and Styles of Clothing I,tiorn b.v Respondents The chi-square relatíonships between level of education and clothing style worn and not Ì/üorn by 10f respondents are presented in Table L7, Appendix E - Table 26. The respondents werecêlassified into three educational groups : matriculation, college and postgraduate. A significant relationship at the .01 level was found between level of education and the wearing of saris, sari blouses and the conservative style of sari. Data shows a significant relationship at the .05 level between level of education and the wearing of the conservative style of blouse and moderately styles of "orr""rrr"tive pantsuit, bl-ouse and sleepwear. Results indicate Ëhat Ëhe level of education is directly related to these styles, that is, the higher Ëhe level of education Ëhe more these styles are r^7orn. These results are subsËantiated by Mackenziets (26267 ) findings in her study on Alaskan Eskimo vüomen living in the Bering Sea Coastal region. She found thaE level of education had a significant effect on Ëhe adoption of non-native versus native dress. A relationship aE the .10 leve1 of signÍficance \,vas found between level of education and Ëhe wearing of il:.:,,:¡:l:4

TABLE L7

Ch_i-square Values Showing Relationship Between Level of Education and-the Ctothing- Style l.lorn and not Worn by 101 Respondents

Style Categories lypes of Garments Coneervative l'lod. Cons. I{oderate llÎod. Llb, Liberal AII Stylesc

I'lestern Garments: .

Pantsuits 2.11 6.05** 1,67 7,14 A.61 O. t9

' Swí¡nsuits 1 .14 tl Dressesaaala'a

Blouses 9.OO**b 7.51*x 5.85* a å 4.51 Gowns 1.tO 1,27 O.47 O.79 a O,r3

Sleepwear 1.65 8.27** 4.44 1.46 1.85 O.?O

Eastern Garnents:

Shal¡.rar Kanj-z O.B8 O.55 2.11 2.65 2.50 0,76 Saris l.t .66*r+*._ 1.16. 3.99 t0.97*** Sari Blouses 4.42 - O.O4 1.68 2.91 O.2A 10.87+x*

Degrees of freedom = 2 *+* .-_ Slgnlflcant at the .Ol level. ' +* - Significant at the .05 level. , t - Significant at the . fO level. a - Insufficient nr¡mber of respontlents for statistical analysis. c b - See Appenclix E - Table 26 for the. full tables of all significant X-. c - the vearing or not wearing of the different garment types.

li: i. :: it i ..::.i: 87 the moderate style of blouse. This style hTas more popular among respondents with a higher level of education Ëhan Ehose with only matriculaËion. Results also indicaËe a signifícant relationship aE the .05 level between education abroad and the wearing of the moderaEely liberal styles of gown and sleepÌ/üear (fable 18, Appendix E - Table 27). Respondents with education abroad Ì,vore these styles more than oEher respondents, A relationship at the .10 1evel of significance vüas found beËween educatíon abroad and the wearing of the conservative style of swimsuit and the liberal style of sari blouse. These styles weïe worn more by respondents who have acquired some form of education in the lrlest. The researcher believed that closer contact with westerners and exposure to \^Testern ideology may influence the clothing behaviour of the respondents. However, this belief is only partly substantiated by the results (table 18).

Relationship Between OcCupaË:ion and the Tlpes and Styles_ 6F Clolhing VJorn by Bespondents A chi-square analysis was used to determine Ëhe relationship between occupation and clothing style worn and not vrorn by the L02 respondents (Table 19, AppendÍx E Table 28). A significantlrelationshÍp at the .05 level lvas found between occupaËion and Ëhe wearing of the conservative style of blouse and the moderaËely liberal style of pantsuit. The results indicate Ehat Ëhese styles \,vere 88

TABLE 18

Chi-square Values Showing Relationship Between EducaËion Abroad and the Clothing Style V'lorn and not !üorn by 102 RespondenÈs

Style Cateeories lypes of Gar¡ents ConSe¡vative l.lod. Cons. Moderate llod. Lib. AJ-l Styles

Sestern Gar,ents.:

Paatsr¡1ts o.oo 0.00 0.09 0.00 1 .50 0.00

Swimsuits 2.87*b a a a. o.54

Dresses a a. a ,a 'a a

' Blouses o. tt o.54 0.1? a a 1.65

Gowns o.3t 0.02 0.04 4.25xx 0.00

SJ.eeprear 0.02 o.54 .1.14 5.26x+ 2.00 o.36

Eastérn Gar-ents:

Shalrar .Ka=iz 1.64 o.oô 1.52 2.21 o.07 0.60 Saris o.54 2,42 o.00 o.07

Sari Blouses 0;00 o:19 o.89 o.02 1 ,lgx 0.07

Degrees of freedom =. I ** - SignifÍcant at the .05 level. + - Signiflcant at the .f0 Ievel. e - Insu-fficient number of responclents for statlstical analysis. - Table 27 for the fulL tablés of all significant X2. c - The rearinþ or not wearing of the different garnent types.

i:.) .. : f': .ri .: 'r-,.it.l:a'1-a l::.r::ì.:a¿

TABLE Lg

Chi-square Values Showing Relationship Between Occupation and the CloËhing Style- Illorn and noÈ !,Iorn by L02 Respondents

Style Categories Types ofGarnents ffi l'loderate liod. Lib. Liberal I St¡-ìesc lJestern Garments:

. Pantsuits 1.99 , o.5o 0..10 3.94*x o.o2 o.06

Swinsuits 7.72*b a a ta a 0.9f

D¡esses .g e a a a

Blouses 5.68** 1:57 2.16 a a ¿.Þ)

Gowns o.'l 1 0.01 0.o1 0.02 o.12 0.00 Sleepwear 2.Bg* 0.10 o.ol 0.06 0.04 o.r2

Eastern Garnents:

Shal*ar Kamiz 0.01 o.45 o.10 o.1t o.17 .0.04 Saris t. 14 0.81 o.04 0.20

'Sari Blouses o. ?e o.00 0.05 1.06 o.05 o.20

Degree of freedon = I ** - Significant at the .05'l"evel. * - Slgnlficant at the .1O leveI. a -. Insufficient number of responcl'ehts for statistical analysis.. b - See Appendir E - lable 28 for the full tables of all significant X2. c - The wearing or not vearlng of the different garment types.

l: ir'' 90 .' ' '' :: Ì^7orn more by career women than by homemakers. The researcher assumed that daily contact with Canadians in a Canadian milieu would influence the cloEhing behaviour of

\^7omen, do not substantiate the career however, the results . ::_:::::: ': 'i :''': thís assumption. IË is possible that respondents may have ': been interested in fashion regardless of wheËher they were homemakers or career women' .,:.;.,,.,;:.:.:: A relationship at the .10 level of significance :.'1',,,,.,,r''t was also found between occupation and the wearing of con- ','",',, i.:'-,,.,'.'''.,r,'., ', servaËive styles of swimsuit and sleepwear. Career l^7omen tend to favour the conservaEive style of swimsuit. The l homemakers tend to favour the conservative style of sleep-

wear. i l

Relationship Between Length of Residence in the Vüest and the Twes and Styles of Clochite lotn by R."Potd Chi-square values for length of residence in the lrlest and clothing style worn and noË worn by 100 respondents are presenËed in Table 20, Appendix E - Table 29. Results show a significant relationship aE the .01 level between lengËh of residence in the vüest and the wearing of swimsuits and Ëh.e. conservative style of swimsuit. A significant relaEionship at the .05 level was also found between length of residence in Ehe üüest and the wearing of the co-nservaEive style of pantsuit and Ehe moderately consetvative sËyle of shalwar kamLz. The wearing of swimsuits and the conservaEive style of swim been in popular wiÈh respondenËs who have :,:l suiË was most i: il ..ì: 'i:r':r.r; llll t;.:;i:¡':

.9L

TABLE 20

Chi-square Values Showirtg Relationship Between Length of Residence in the Ï¡,lest and Ehe clorhingd.Tå8 vüorn H::;"åä:"i:.

styl-e ,rr¡nac ar ê¡¡-an*c categories -.*-*-:'"- Co¡servative l{od. Cbns. }tode¡ate Iniod. T,ib. Liberel AlI Stylesc

Western Garnents: Pantsuits 9 ' 66**b 2.44 r.89 1.31 5.84 8.1Jx

tÊ Sr¡insuits 20. ? 1*J+ a a e a 1 6 .4?***

Dresses é a a. a a a

Blouses 7.44 3.84 6.01 a 6.14 Gowns 4:92 4.21 2.e7 l.lt a 2.1' Slgepvear 0.94 0.49 1.74 't.52 1.99 6.24

Eastern.Ga¡nent3:

Shalwar'Ka¡oiz 1.81 10.241x 1.91 1.74 6.39 6.11

Saris 8.25* 7.89+ 1.00 2.15

Sari. Blouses 5.68 2:87 6.35 7.47 8.96* 2.1'5

Degrees of freedon = 4 *** - Significant at the .ol leve}. ** - SlgnÍficant at the .05 level. * -.signlficant at the .10 level. a - Insufficient number of resþondents for statistical analysis. b - See Appenclix E - Table 2J îor the fult täbles of all significant X2. c - The uearfng or not wearlng of thE.dlfferent garoent typee. '¡.!"!,i.1 lX

9Z the Vüest f rom 6 to 10 years. The Ì^Tearing of the conservative style of pantsuit \^7as most popular with respondents who have been in the trrlest f.rom 4 to 10 years. The moderately conservative style of shalwar kamiz was ,,,,,1., \^7orn mostly by respondents who have resided in the lrÏest : " f.or 4 to 5 years. Harris (20:02) in her study on a specified group of Indian and Chinese r^7omen found no relaEion- ..:. :,. ship between length of residence in the United SEates and :,1::',,

ownership of western dress. Contrary to Harrisrs findings") .,.., i:t''':'.: results of this study indÍcate that length of residence inf,luenced the selection of certain Ëypes and styles of clothing. ì

A relationship at the .10 level of significance i

r rivas found between lengËh of residence in Ëhe lrlest and the l

wearing of pantsuits, the conservative style of sa::i, the I l moderate style of sari and the liberal style of blouse.

The conservative sEyle of sari lvas worn most by respondents ) who have resided in the !'lest f.o'r 2 to 3 years, while the l:,,:,:,,r. weari¡rg of pantsuits, thä moderate style of sari and the ',"'i,,,',,,

trtt,lrrrt,tt liberal style of sari blouse vüas most popular wiEh respondents who have resided in Ehe lrlest f.or 6 to 10 years.

Relationship BetweeLCiËigenship and the Types and Styles of tlothing lrlorn by Respondents Chi-square relationships between citizenship and clothing sËyle hTorn and not \^7orn by 101 respondents are presented in Table 21, Appendix E - Tab1e 30. Results l a:.:.:.!j; 'i:.:ì4

TABLE 21

Chi-square Values Showing Relationship Between Citizenship and the Clothing Stylè !,Iorn and not Vüorn by 101 Respondents

Types of Garnents Conseriative Moderate I'iod. Lib. AI1 Sty1es l,lester¿ Garments:

'Pantsuits 0. rB 0.00 o.00 o.1'8 0.58 2.09

SwinÈuits 5.5txrb e a trF a 3.62*.

Dresses â, a .Â a .a

Blouses o.02 o,13 O;28 'a a 0.01

. Go¡¿ns 0.71 o.47 o.05 'a 1 9.06 .61 SJ-gepwear 0.o1 0.66 o.0l o.14 o.'oz o.22

Eastern Garnents:

S¡alwar Kaniz o.o2 0.00 o.00 6.17x+ 0.07 o.o0 Sarfs 1.73* o.'29 o.21 o.oo

Sari Blouses 4,O5++ 0.20 o.50 1.14 1.34 o.00

Degrees of freedon = I ** - gignifÍcqnt at the .05 level. * -.SignifÍcant at the .10 feve}. a - Insufficient number of respondentp for statistical analysis. b - See Appenttix E - lable JO for the full tables of all sign-ificant X2. c - The wearing or not wearing of the different garment types.

t:: :

l;.1 94 sho\,v a significant relationship at the .05 level between citizenship and the wearing of conservative styles of swimsuit and sari blouse and the moderately liberal style of shalwar kamiz. These styles r^iere lvorn more by those who have become Canadian ciEizens. Acquisition of citizenship indicates an immigrantt-s intentÍon of residing permanently in the adopted country. Borrie (+zSg) believes that an Í.mmigrant who ,does not intend to settle permanently will make liEtle effort to integrate. However, daËa indicates thaE citizenship does not influence cloEhing behaviour except f.or the conservative swÍmsuit style. This may have been related to the length of residence in the lrlest. Data shows a relationship at the .10 level of significance between cÍtizenship and the wearing of swimsuits and the-conse::vaËive sEyle of sari. Canadian.citizens Ëend to favour Ehe wearing of swimsuits. The wearing of, the conservative style of sari was favoured by Pakistani !ùomen who had not acquired Canadian citizenship.

Relationship Between Place of Resijlencê ig Pekistan and the TJges and Styles of Clgtþing Vüorn bv Respondents Chi-square test was used to determine the relationship between place of residence in Pakistan and i1i.-.::.' clothing style Tiüorn and not \,vorn by 100 respondents (table 22, Appendix E - Table 31). A significant relaËionship at the .01 level was found between place of residence in PakisËan and the wearing of sleepwear, saris and sari 95

TABLE 2L

Chi-square Values Showing Relationship Between Place of Residence in Pakistan and the Clothing Style !üorn and not !üorn by 100 Respondents

Sty1e Oategories Types of Garnênts Conservative Mod. Cons. Iioclerate Mod. Lib. Liberal À11 Stylesc llestern Garnents: Pantsu-its O.13 O;07 4.rA O.71 1.15 1.80 \ Swinsuits 1.79 d a F 2.O8 ,t Dresses a a a a a -a Blouses O.B9 . 2.1O 4.51 a a 2-31 Gowns l.5e o.l8 5.66+b o.99 2.67 Sleeprear 3,27 2.27 0.18 4.Or 1.55 ..12.74xx+

Easte'rn Garnents:

Shalwar Kamíz O.5O 0.97 O.2B 1 -56. O.1? 2.95 Saris . O.91 3.81 0.9e 12.1 1*** sari Blouses 1.55 1.44 o.B9 4.66* 2.OA f2.1 1**+

Degreê of free.don = 2 *+* - Signiftcant at the .01 levet. * - Significant at the ..10 level. a - Insufîicient nunber of.responclents for statistical analysis. b - See Appenclix E - Table J'l for the full tableg of all'sig nificant. X2. c ; The rearing or not wearing of the different garnent types.

lt: ; -.:'' 96- blouses. The results indicate that these styles were most popular with respondents from the metropolitan cities of Paki,stan. The sari Ís popular among the fashion oriented upper and middle class women for formal occasions. These fíndings relfect the cultural differences between cities and towns. Religious and cultural dogmas restrain rapid acceptance and evolution of fashion in towns and villages. Just like other cities in the world, metropolitan cities in Pakistan are the trend setters and centres of- fashion due to cultural and socioeconomic factors.

Relationship at the .10 level of significance was found between place of residence in Pakistan, and the wearing of the moderate sEyle of gown and the, moderately liberal style of sari blouse. Again, these styles were worn more by respondents from the metropolitan cities in

Paki s tan.

EXA}4INATION OF HYPOTHESES

::- l : - 1..:: The null hypotheses formulated for this study and the conclusions arrived at as a result of anaLyzLng the data are as follows: Hypothesis l. The::e is no significant relationship

::.:r:: between clothing styles worn and clothing styles liked but tiili noË worn by Pakistani vüomen residing in Canada.' The results show thaË over 80 percent of the re- spondenEs had worn or would,consider wearing in the future 97 pantsuits, blouses, go-\,\ins, sleepwear, shalwar kamí2, saris and sari blouses. Swimsuits and dresses were worn or would be considered for wear in the future by 23.5 percent and 2.9 percent of the respondents, respectively. A significant relationship_ at the .05 level was found between styles respondents wore and the styles they liked but:-\,r7ould not r¡7ear for pantsuits, go\^7ns, saris and sari blouses. DaËa shqws.lhat 4lthough respondents wore the conservative to moderate styles of pantsuiË and gown, they liked the more_ liberal styles of the same garments. The moderate to liberal styles of sari and sari blouse hTere riüorn while the more conservative styles hTere liked buË not worn. The results indicaËe that significant relationship exists between styles respondents wore and the styles Ehey liked but would not wear for four of Ëhe nine garments, namely, pantsuits, go!üns, saris and sari blouses. The null hypothesis is therefore partially rejected Hypothesis 2. There is no significant relationship between religious commitment and clothing ..sËyles Ìvorn by Pakistani \^7omen residing in Canada.

Aì.significant relationship at the .01 level I^74 S founcl between religious commi-tment and the wearinþ of the liberal styles of shaLwar kamiz and sari blouse. A signíficant relationship at the .05 level was also founo between religious commitment and the wearing of the conservative style of swimsuiE, the. moderate style of blouse and mocterately liberal styles of gown and sleepwear. '¡iii-ti.:i 98 These styles \,vere r^7orn more by respondents with low religious commitment scores and less by those with high religious commitment scores. The nul1 hypothesis is therefore partially rejecteo. Hypothesis 3. There is no significant relationship between age and clothing styles \^7orn by Pakistani \^7omen resicling in canaca. The respondenËs ranged in age f.rom 20 to b9 years. Eighty-five percent were under 35 years of age. . No sig- nificanL relationship was found between age and clothing styles worn by the respondents. The null hypothesis is therefore accepted. Hypothesis 4. There is no significant relationship between level of education and clothing styles \^7orn by Pakistani lvomen residing in Canada. Of the L02 respondents, 18.8 percent had matriculation, 49,5 percent attended or graduate{ from college.,: and 31.7 percent had postgraduate education. A significant relationship at the .01 .level was found between level I of education and the wearingiof saris, sari blouses and the conservative style of sari. A significant relationship at the .05 level was also found between level of education and the wearing of the conservative style of blouse and moderately conservaËive styles of pantsuit, blouse and sleepwear. The higher the level of education of the respondents, the more these styles riüere worn. The nu1l hypothesis is therefore partially rejected. 99 Hypothesis 5. There is no significant relationship between occupation and clothing styles worn by Pakistani women residing in Canada. A sÍgnificant relationship at the .05 level was found between occupation and the wearing of the con- servatíve style of blouse and the moderateLy liberal sËyle of pantsuit. These two sEyles \,vere more popular with career \,üomen as compared to the homemakers. The null i...... ,."- hypothesis Ís Lherefore partially rejected. Hypothesis 6. There is no significanE relationship between length of residence in the lriest and clothing styles Ì.üorn by Pakistani women residing in Canada. ' Respondents of residence in the Vüest ranged "'|lttah from I to 2L years with a mean of 5.2 years. A significant relationship aË the .01 level was found between length of residence in the lrlest and the wearing of swimsuits and the conservaËive style of swimsuit. A significant relaEionship at the .05 level was also found between length of residence in the I,rÏest and the wearing of the conservaEive style of pantsuiË and the moderately con- servatíve style of shalwar kamÍ-z. The wearing of swimsuits and conservative styles of pantsuit and swimsuit \,vas most popular with respondents who have resided in the lrlest for 6 to 10 years. The moderately conservatÍve style of shalwa:i ikam1z {vas. \^rorn mostly by respondenEs who have resided in the.Vüest f.or 4 to 5 years. The null hypothesis

t :::;:::: is therefore partially rejected -'.:..i+ 100 Hypothesis 7. There is no sÍgnificant relationship between country of citizenship and clothing styles worn by Pakistani women residing in Canada. Thirty-two percent of the respondents are Canadian citizens. A signifícant relationship at the .05 level was found between citizenship and the wearing of conservaËíve styles of swimsuit and sari blouse, and the moderately liberal style of shalwar kamLz. These styles were vüorn more by Canadian citizens. The null hypothesis is therefore partially rejected. Hypothesis 8. There is no significant relationship between place of residence in Pakistan and clothing styles worn by Pakistani women residing in Canada. Sixty-six percent of the respondents had lived in the metropolítan cities of lGrachi and Lahore, 26 percent \,vere from other major cities and 8 percent were from towns. A significant relationship at the .01 level was found between place of residence in Pakistan and "the wearing of sleepwear, saris and sari blouses. The results indicate Ëhat these t¡ges of garments \,üere popular among respondents from the metropolitan cities and less popular among Ëhose f¡om towns. The null hypothesis is therefore partially rejecËed. - : l'--'1::..' Chapter V

SUMMARY

The specific purpose- of this exploratory research \^7as to investigate the relationship between clothing practices of Pakistani \^7omen residing in Canada, and selected demographic and culEural factors A questionnaire \^7as developed to assess the cloËhing styles, specific cultural factors and demographic characteristics of the subjecËs. Two hundred and fifty questionnaires were mailed to Pakistani vüomen across Canada. One hundred and two of these were statisticalLy anaLyzed, The Pearsonts correlation coefficient was used a: compute the relationship between clothing styles worn and clothing styles liked but not hTorn by respondenEs, The chí-square test of independence was used to compute the relationship between types and styles of clothing worn, and the demographic characteribËics of the subjects chosen for the study. '. Except for swimsuits and dresses, which lr7ere vüorn by 23.5 percent and 2.9 percent of the respondents respectively, over ö0 percent of the respondents wore and would consider wearing in the future the different types of garments used in the study, A signifícant relationship at the .05 level was founo between styles respondents wore 101 L02 'ánd the styles of the same garments they liked but would not wear for pantsuits, gowns, saris and sari blouses. The styles of pantsuits and go\,vns respondents liked but would not wear \,vere more liberal in style than Ehose they lvore. The styles of saris and sari blouses respondents liked but would not vüear r/r7ere more conservative in style Ehan those they wore. Results indicate that the reasons for not wearing the styles respondents liked varied with each garment. Reasons for not wearíng swimsuits and dresses hTere that these garments were against religion ano were nucle, naked or exposed. The liberal styles of blouse, goÌ/ün, sleepwear, sarí blouse and the moderately liberal sleepwear style however, \,üere considered nude, naked or exposed. The findings seem to indicate that modesty and religion are influential factors in the selection of clothing styles. The religious commÍtment scores of the respondenEs ranged from a low of 39 to a high of. 99. Results shoú a significant relationship between religious commitment and the wearing of the conservative style of swimsuit, the moderate style of blouse, moderately liberal styles of gown and sleepwear and liberal styles of shalwar Lamiz and sari blouse. These sËyles vüere worn more by respondents with low religious commitment scores and less by those with high religious commitment scores. Age of respondents ranged from 20 Ëo 69. No significant relationship was found between age and clothing 103 styles \,ùorn. This may be due to the relatively young sample. Eighty-five percent of the respondents were under 35 years of age. However, age at tíme of arrivar abroad \,vas found to be significantly related to the wearing of sleepwear, shalwar kamLz, saris, sari blouses and the conservative style of sari. These styles lvere vüorn more by certain age groups as compared to other age groups. Education was classífíed into three groups: matriculation, college and postgraduate. A significant relationship was found between education and the wearing of saris, sari blouses, conservative styles of blouse and sari and moderately conservative sËyles of pantsuit, blouse and sleepwear. The higher the ectucation respondents have the more these styles are \,vorn. Respondents with matrículation \^7ore these styles less than those with postgraduate education.

Seventy-four percent of the respondents were homemakers anð, 26 percent r^7ere classifÍed as career Ì,üomen. A significant relationship was found between occupation and the wearing of the moderately liberal style of pantsuit and the conservative style of blouse. These two styles Ìvere worn'more by career \^7omen than by homemakers. Length of residence is an imporËant factor in the adjustment of an immigrant (g:ZO). Respondentst length of residence in the lrlest ranged from I to 2L years with a mean of 5.2 years. A significant relationship was found between length of residence in the ltlest and the wearing of lirl"¡i?:1:rif:.:

LO4 svüimsuits, conservative sEyles of pantsuit and swimsuit and the moderately conservative style of shalwar kamj z. The wearing of swimsuits and the conservative style of swimsuit was most popular with respondents who have resided in the Vüest for over 6 years. Thírty-two percent of the respondenEs have acquired Canadian citizenship. Results show a significant relationship between citizenship and the wearing of the conservative styles of swimsuit ancl sari blouse and the moderately liberal style of shalwar kamí2. These styles were more popular among respondenEs who are Canadian citizens. Place of residence in Pakistan of the respondents \,vas classified into three groups. Sixty-six percent of the respondents \^7ere from the metropoliEan cities of Pakistan, 26 percent were from other major cities and 8 percent were from towns. A significant relationship was found between place of residence in Pakistan and the wearing of sleepwear, saris and sari blouses. These styles hTere worn more by respondents from the metropolitan ciEies as compared to those from towns. However, Ehese results do not indicate that respondents from meEropolitan cities adopt western clothing more readily than others in the study. i:: t:t: : ¡r:.: -: .Dpta indicates that religion, education, occupatioq length of residence in the hiest, citizenship and place of residence in Pakistan influenced the selection of certain 105

types and styles of clothing worn by the respondents. No significant relationship was found between age and clothing styles vüorn by respondents. Acculturation encompasses change in artifacts, customs and beliefs which result from contact of people of dífferent cultures (Z: o8). The results indicate that Pakistani vüomen in the study have adopted western garments which are most similar to their tradiËional gar:ments in terms of body exposure. The wide-spread adoption of pants may be due to the introduction of pants T,üorn with the traditional kamiz and dupatta in Pakistan in the late 60rs and early 70ts. lrlestern television series, movies and magazines in Pakistan may have exposed PakÍstanis to the laEest fashions thereby influencing the attitudes, especially of those who come abroad.

REUOMMENDATIONS

Further research in the clothing behaviour of Pakistani hTomen and other immigrant groups is recommended. l. The Ínvestigation should be repeated with a larger group of women wiËh considerable age variaËion. 2. Further research is recommended to investigate the relationship between personality traits, values, attitudes, socioeconomic facËors, family sLze, upbringing of children and the clothing behaviour of Pakistani rvomen.

i r...:,: fi,t'l'

106 3. A study designed to investigate the clothing practices of immigrant groups should secure descriptÍve statements from respondents about the types and styles of clothing \,vorn. 4, Investigate the clothing practices of respondents while in Pakistan as related to their clothing practices in Canada. 5. It would be interesting to study the clothing behaviour of Pakistaní women when pantsuits are out of vogue and dresses and skirts are popular in the trIest.

l::;! SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

LO7 108

SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

l. Abbott, Freeland. Islam and Pakistan. Ithaca, N. Y. : Cornell Univers@ 2. rrAcculturationtt. Encyclopeedia Britannica. 1968, Vol. I. 3. Ali, Maulana Muhammad. The Religion of Islam. New Delhi: S. Chand and Co. Ltd., n.d. 4. Ayer, Jacqueline. Oriental Costume. London: Studio Vista, L974. 5. Barclay_, Harold. rrA L:gbanese Community in Lac La Biche, Alberta.tt Immigrânt Groups. g¿ite¿ by Jean Leonard Elliott. Scarborough, Ontario: Prentice-Hal1 of Canada, Ltd., L97L. 6. Berdie, D.R., and Anderson, J.F. euestionnaires: Design and Use.- New Jersey: The S¿ãrecrõæïess. Inc., L974.

7. Borrie, I^I.D. The Crltrt"l Irt"gr"tior . . Unesco, 1959-- 8. Brody, E.8., Ed. Behaviour in New Envirqnments. California: Sage Publications, T970. 9. Chandrar MoËi. CosË coiffure in hi: Oriental Publishers, L973. 10. cheng, David re-chrao. ttAcculturation of the chinese in the United States.rr Acculturation. Edited by Bernard J. Siegel. StanEõïõJãf,IFõ?nia: Sranford University Press, 1955. 11. Dwyer, IGEhleen M. ttReligious commitment as a Factor Ín Conservatism in Dress.rt Unpublished Masterrs thesis, StaËe University of New York, L962, 10e L2, Embree, John F. trAcculturation Among the Japanese of Kona, Hawaií.rr Acculturation- Edited uËy Bernard J. siegel. Gælifornia: Stanford University Press, 1955. 13. Ford, Neil. rrThe Advance Letter in Mail Surveys.tr Journal of Market@earch , 4(2) (May, iOøl) , ñ

L4, Ghurye, Govind Sadashiv. Indian Costume. Bombay: Popular Book Depot, 19- 15. Glubb, J.B. The Life and Times of Muhammad. Great Bri tain:

J 6. Gordon, M.M. Assimilation in American Life. The role of ra gins. New York: Oxford Universíty Press, L970. L7 , Griesman, Kay S. rrCloËhing Behaviour Related to At- tituéles Toward Certain Clothing Standards, Clothing InËerest, OrËhodo>

29. Redfield, Robert,'ttulemörandum Ralph Linton, and Melville J. Herskovits. fór the Study of Ac- culturaLion. " Amer.içan Anthropolog , Vo1. 38, No. l, L936, L4-f 30. Robin, Stanley. ttA Procedure for Securing Returns to Mail Questionnairês:tt Sociology and Social Re- search, 50(r) (rg0s), 24=35---.- 31. ScotË, R. A I,rledding Man is Nicer than Cats. Miss. A teacher at work with immigrant children. New York: St. Martints Press, L97L. 32, Siddiqui, M.M. Iiüomen in Islam. Pakistan: InstituËe of Islamic W 33. Siegel, Sidney. Non-Parametric Statistics for the Behavioural Sciences. Toronto: McGraw-Hill Book Company, L956. 111 34. singh, J.A. rrrModernr uraped sari Replaces Tradition- al Costumes of Educated Indian lrlomen and the Re- lation of this Change to the Development of Education and Cornrnunication in Indiä.rt Unpub- f.ished Ph.D. dissertation, The pennsylvaniä State University, L966, 35. Stark, Rodney and Charles Y. Glock. American piety: The Nature oE Religious CoqmirmenFBEEfÐ: University of California Press, L968. APPENDIX A

QUESTIONNAIRE

LL2 113 CTOTHTNG PRACTICES AND SîYLE PREFERENCES OF PAKISTANI !'IOMEN RESIDING ÏN CANADA.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. All questj.ons nust be answered. by the 1ad.y to whon this questionnaire is ad.dressed.. 2, The questionnaire is organized. into three secti-ons, with Section I on Clothing Styles, Section II on Religious Commitment, and. Section III on Denographic Characteristics. Alnost all the questions can be answered by placing (à mark in the blank provided, beside the answer chosen. If" you feel that some of the questions do not express your true feelings, please write your comnents in the right hanrl nargin besid.e the question. 7. Kindly ansïrer all the questions in all the sections in the order they are gi-ven. I hope you enjoy filling out the questionnaire, and thank you for your time and co-operation.

SECTTON T

0n the foll-owing pages are sketches of different garnents in different styles. The styles may not be an exact copy of the styles you wear' so please make your choices on the basis of similarityof garment fit, garment length, sleeve length, neckline, etc., when answering the question, I'Which of the above styles do you wear ?rr Answer questions 1, 2, and J by placing a Ø nark Ín the blank provided,.beside the answer chosen. For question 4 please indicate with a (rzl nark only those qtyles whic! you like but will not wear. For question 5 please check the reason(s) for not wearing the styles you Iike. t. Do you vltear Pantsuits ? Yes No

If ânswer is Yes, please answer questions 2, 3, 4, and 5. ïf answer Ís No, please ansrver questions Jt {, and, J, only.

?-. Which of the above styles do you wear 2 a, d- b e c

1. ltlhich of the above styles not worn, wouLd vou consider wearinE in the near future ? g d ::: b e ,'. ' c none - 4. l¡lhich- of the above styles- do you like but lgiÏI--pq!--wear, ? d b e- none tr Check the reason(s) for not wearing the styles you like. Does not suit figure Agalnst religion Nude, naked or exposed. Husband does not like Others, specify 1. Do you wear Swimsuits ? ,ïes No

Tf answer 1S Yes, please answer questions 2, 7, 4, and 5. ïf &nSlrlgf is No, please ansúer questions J, {, a.nd 5, only.

2. Which of the above styles d.o you wear ? e. d b c

1. trlhích of the above styles not worn, would vou consid.er wearínE in the near future ? a d. i., ,;, b e '. .,- c-none.' - :.i ' l ; : .: 4. trühich- of the above styles- rJ.o you like but IL$I--49,@, ? a-d b e c none

5, Check the reason(s) for not wearing the styles you like. Does not suit figure Agaínst religion Nude, naked or exposed Husband does not like Others, specify l;i1;Ì:r::r',4:ija

110

U \

1. Do you wear Dresses ? Yes No

ïf ånswer is Tes r please answer questions 2, J, {, and' tr tf arrgwer is No r please ansrüer questions Jt {, and. J, on1y. 2, ltrhich of the above styles d.o you wear e a- d b c-. 7" tr{hich of the above styles not worn, would vou consider geeË,iqj@? a d b c- none 4. trlhich of the above styles do you like but E¿l not wear*? a d_ b e- c none ,. Check the reason(s) ror not wearing the styles you Iike. Does not suit figure Against religion Nude, naked or exposed Husband does not like Others, specífy LL7

1, Do you wear blouses ? Yes No

ïf answer is ïes, please answer questions 2, 7, !-, and. 5. If anshrer is No, please ansrrer questions 5, 4, and I' only.

2, lühich of the above styles d.o you wear ? tt d b e c Whlch of the above styles not worn, would vou consider wearine in the near future ? ad b c none

4. trrhich of the above styles d.o vou lj-ke but will not wear ? a d b e c none

5. Check the reason(s) for not wearing the styles you like. Does not suit fígure Agaínst religion Nude, naked or exposed Husband does not like Others, specify a b

'l . Do you ïrear Gowns ? Yes No

If ansrrer is Yes, please answer questions 2, 3, 4, and tr rf anslrer is Nó, please ansrrer questions 5, 4, and. J, onIy.

) Which of the above styles do you wear ? ¡ì_ d b_ e- c- !ùhich of the above styles rrot Tlorn, ¡vouid. vou consid.er wearinE in the near future ? ad b e c none

4. Which of the above styles do you like but gilt-gg!-Uæg, ? a d_ b ô c none

5. Check the reason(s) for not wearing the styles you like. Does not suit figure Against religion Nude, naked or exposed Husband does not like Others, specify

'::'r'. 1. Do you weår Sleepwear ? Yes No

If ansvfer is ïes, please ansÌüer questions 2, 7, [, and, 5. If ansvrer iÈ No, please ansrÍer questions 1, 4, and. !, only.

2. trühich of the above styles do you wear ? ad b c

7 h¡hich of, the above styles not worn, would vou consider wearins near ? in the future :-,,,:, a-d- rt- b e c none

4. Ir¡hich of the above styi.es do you like but will not wear ? â" d- b e c none

Ë Check the reason(s) for not wearing the styles you like, Does not suit figure Against religj-on Nude, naked or exposeô Husband does not like Others, specify 1, Do you vrear Shalwar Kameez ? Yes No

If ansûer is ïes, pLease answer questions 2, 7, 4, and tr Tf answer ie No, pJ.ease answer questions 7, 4, and l, only.

2. Which of the above styles d.o you wear ? a d b c

7. Which of the above styles not TúOrn, would vou consider wearinE in the near future ? a_ d b e

4. Which of above styles do you like but will not wear ? a d b e c none

5, Check the reason(s) for not wearing the styles you like. Does not suit figure Against religion Nude, naked or exposed Husband does not like Others, specify L2L

1. Do you vlear a Sari ? Yes No

If answer is Yes, please anslver questions 2 t 7, 4, and 5. questions J and ,þ, only. Tf answer is No, please answer ' 4, ¿. lrlhich of the above stYles do you wear 2 a

1" l{hich of the above styles not worn, would vou consider wearinE in the near future ? a b c None ::.,:,::;,;1:; l "t-t '' 4. lrrhich of the above styles do you like but 1t!It--g!-wear, ? & b- c- None

5, Check the reason(s) for not wearing the styles you like. Does not suit figure Against religion Nude, naked or exposed Husband does not like 0thers, specify bt^ L22 @fr"Þ

NOTE : The dotted lines ind.icate the normal waistline.

1. Do you wear Sari blouses ? Yes No

Tf answer is ïes, please ansl{er questions 2, 3, 4, and' 5. ïf answer is No, please ansrüer questions 3, 4, and I ' onlY. 2. hrhich of the above styles do you wear ? a d_ b e c

5. Which of the above styles not worn, would vou consider wearÍnE ín the near future ? a b e c none ..,

4. Vrlhich of the above styles do vou like but will not wear ? a d b e c none

tr' Check the reason(s) tor not wearing the styles you like. Does not suit figure Against religÍon Nude, naked or exposed Husband does not like Others, specify 11

L23 SECTION II

¡!. Read. each of the following statements carefully and. encircle the ansvÍer which closely describes your feelings regarding the statement. SA strongly agree with statenent A agree with statement U und.ecided about statement D disagree with statenent SD strongly disagree with statement , ,i,,,,,, 1: Tt is alright for Pakistanis to serve aLcohol-ic drinks ',, to their Canad.ian friend.s even if they d.o not d.rink it thernselves. SA A U D SD 2. Pakistanis should not buy baked food fron the store. SA A U D ljD 3. It is alright for a Pakistani man to d.rink alcohol- in winter. SA A U D lil) ' ' 'r.,_-', +. A Pakistani fanily should not eat pork. SA A U D SD ",', ',,.,,' 5. It is alright for a PakistanÍ woman to drink alcohoJ ',.' in winter SA A tl D SD l :_. .'.:.: ; ::_: - 6. Pakistanis should. avoid eating in restaurants because ,,:,: ::.:..';:- the food night be cooked in pork products. SA A U D SI) 7. A Pakistani fanily can buy lottery tickets if they wish. SA A U D SÐ 8. Pakistanis can drink beer but not aIcohol. SA A U D SD

If space is linited., please use the back side of the page for youx anstrrers. 9. Should a muslim eat haIlal meat or can he eat meat bought from the supernarket.

., : : ..: .,::,; :.1 10. Is it possible for a muslim to strictly follow the teachings of ,,.:::::.:,, Islan while living in Canada. Why? :. :-'

1 1. llhy do you pray?

:.ir,r'..ir.r:.1 '-t'i:tr.t:Ùì.1

L24 Please place V) mark in the blank besid.e the answer chosen for the following questions."

1 2. Eow often do you pray at home ? I never pray. ï pray on special occasions onIy. f pray approximately four tines a nonth. I regularly pray once a day. I pray five tines a d.ay.

17. How often do you read. or recite the Qur'an at hone ? I never read the Qurran. f read it on special occasions only. ï read it quite often but not at regular intervals. I regularly read. it once a week. I regularly read it once a day.

14. How inportant is having a mosque Ín your connunity to you? Extremely inportant. Very inportant. Fairly inportant. Not too inportant. Not inportant at all.

15. How often do you fast during the nonth of Ramadan ? Never. Rarely. Fridays only. 10 to 19 days. The fu]l month.

16. How often do you have a religious gathering in your hone, e.g. Mi1ad, Majlis, etc. Never. Rarely. Once a year. Once in a while. Quite often.

17. How religious d.o you think is your husband ? Extrenely religious. Very relrgious. Fairly religious. Not too religious. Not religious at all.

18. How religious are you ? Extremely religious. Very religious Fair1y religious. Not too religious. Not religious at alf. 17 19. Compared to your husband, how religious are you ? L25 More religious than my husband. Less religious than my husband.. About the same as ny husband.

20. Is there a mosque in your conmunity ? yes. No.

21. Are janatah (congregational) prayers hel¿ in your communÍty ? Yes. No. If pnswer is Yes, how often are these prayers held' .Àbout

(cong""g"tional) ZZ. How often d.oes your husband. attend. these jamatah prayers ? Never. At least once a year. At least once a nonth. Nearly every week. Every week.

(congregttloneL) ? 21.,. Hor¿ often do you attend these janafah prayers Never, At least once a year. At Least once a month. Near1y every week. Every week.

å. Read each of the following statenents carefully. Answer questions 24 to 28 with either f (true) or ¡'(frfse). However, for questions 29 to l3rencírele the answer which closely describes your feelings regarding the statenent.

SA strongly agree with statenent ,rirí::: ,.;.i A - , agree with statement U undecided. about statenent ' D disagree with statenent ';"ìì., SD strongly disagree with statenent 24. The total- number of Prophets sent to d.ifferent peoples at different times is 1O'000. T¡' 25. There are one hund.red Suhras or Chapters in the Qur'an. T F 26. The five pillars of Is1an are Tawheed, Sa1at, Zakatt .::'-:i:,, Fast and Haii. 1' F ,.,., 27. The angel Gabriel (.fiUrif) brought revelations to the Prophets. TF 28. Muslins have been informed of the names of six Books of God sent down to mankind through His Prophets' T F

29. I know God. really exists and I have no doubts about it. SA A U D SD 30. tr{hat we d.o i-n this life wil-l determine our fate in the hereafter. SA A U D SD ', :.::i: 11 . Angels are spiritual bej-ngs who adninister Godrs King- ,'.t.tl'' dorn and. out His ord.ãrs exactly and accurately. SA A U D SD 1?-. The Qu.rtan""="y should. be read. in Arabic only. SA A U D SD 'J'5. The d.evil actually exj-sts. SA A U D SD 14 L26 SECTTON III

Please read the following questions carefully. and, índicate wíth (à nark ( where applicable), rot" chosen answer(s). "

34. hrhat is your Religious Sect ? Sunni Shiaa Ahnadd.í 0thor,

matriculati-on col-lege M.A., M.Sc. Other, specify

17. trtlas any of your education earned outside of PakÍstan ? Yes No ïf answer is Yes, please state what you stud.ied...... place you attended, and number of years ...... 78. Occupation. housewife other, specify

19. How long have you been in Canad.a ?

40' ? T:i.i:::.ï:,i:i"'"::::i.::::,:i,î3nada

41 " Have you lived. in another country other than Canada and Pakistan. Yes No If answer is Yes, please nane the country or countries.. and the number of years you spent there 42. Marital status single married

41. hihat is your husband|s occupation ? 44. Vrlhat is your husband.ts approxinate age ? ......

45. Your husbandrs formal- education ? natriculation college M.4., M.Sc., or equivalent Other, specify ... i

46. Do you serü your own clothes ? Yes ff answer i" v"ffi-o you sew all of your clothes ' most of your clothes a few of your clothes 47. Do you buy all of your clothes nost of your clothes a few of your clothes none of your clothes 15 Tz7 48. Do you have any of your clothes sent to you from Pakistan ? Yes No ff fe", place 7ã mark on the blank opposite the clothing style received from Pakistan. shalwar kurta sari blouses kameez petticoat chooridar pyjama sari gharara set other, specify...

49. Ìlhen buying clothes for yourself, do you shop alone with your husband with a Pakistani friend or relati.ve with a Canadian friend

50. IIow much interest does your husband show in the clothes you wear ? very much somewhat neutral very little not at all /,oo's 51. ltlhich of the following clothing styles^your husband wants you to woar. Check Ø mark r" r"ny as appúcubl". ^ (') pantsuit shalwar, kameez, dupatta pants and blouse _ pant, kameez, dupatta swimsuit pantsuit with dupatta dresses and,/or skirts other, specify.

.aa.a aaa..

(U) sleeveless clothes clothes with one-quartor clothes with full length sleeves length sleev€c clothes with low neckli.ne clothes with three- tight fitted clothes quarter length eleovee fitted clothes cLothes with nedlu¡n loosely fitted clothes neckline clothel with high r,$.fitr" 52. Did you wear any form of outer covering e"g., a burqura, a coat, or a chaddar while you were in Pakistan. before you were narried after you were married not at all only when visi-ting certain places or relatj-ves 53. How often do you wear the following pieces of jewelry. place a (¿ nark in.the appropriate space. al-most l'.,' always usually sometÍ¡nes seldom nevel, i'"':'::'':: bangles earings necklace rine( s )

54. trlhile in Pakistan, did you live most of the tÍme in your hometown ? ïes No If ïes, please state the name of your ho¡oe town lf No, please state the nane of town in iakistan wher:e you lived uroet of the tine ...... ,...... 16 L28 55. This question is composed of two (2) sections. Section A is a list of clothing styles and @f!g-Þ, is a list of auifyãñA-fr"-tpecial occaelon activities. The columns in Section B are nu.nbered to correspond to tho clothing styles listed. i-n Section A, that is , columns 1 to 9 of Section B correspond. to nos. (f) to (g) of Section A. Please check as many clothing styles as are worn in the activities l-isted. Example: If you wear a sari, or a shalwar kameez, or a long gown whlle entertaini-ng Canad.i-an friends at home, then check Ø columns 1, 4, and 5 opposite the activities nentioned. However, if sari is the only clothing style that is worn while entertaln- ing Canad.ian friends,then place a check Ø mark under column 1 onIy.

1) sar]- (+) shalwar kameez Q) pants and blouse ( 2) pantsuit (i) long gown (e) pantsuit with dupatta ( 5) swimsuit (o) gharara (g) pants, kameoz, dupatta

Section B

7 4 5 6. 7 I - entertaining Canad.ian friend.s at home - visiting Pakistani friend.s ...... - at work - entertaining Pakistarli friends at a restaurant - shoppin$ r ...... - entertaining Canadian friend.s at a restaurant - at an outing or picni-c with Canad.ian friends . - entertaining Pakístanis at home ...... - at home, around the house at an outing with Pakistani friends on special religious occasions at Pakistani cultural gatherings visiting Canad.ian friends at the beach - at the swinning pool

56. Are you a Canadian cj-tj-zen ? les I[o

57. I would sincerely appreciate any comments on the questionnaire or the study. If space is limited, please use the back side of this page. Thank you. APPENDIX B

LETTERS SENI TO RESPONDENTS

t29 THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA FACULTY OF HOME ECONOMICS 130 WINN¡PEG, CANADA R3T 2N2 TELEPHONE 204 474-939A DEPARTMENT OF CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

June 27th, 1975.

Dear Madam,

f am a grad.uate student of the Department of Clothing and Textiles, Uni-versity of Manitoba; conducting a study on clothing practices and. style preferences of Pakistani T'iomen residing in Canada. The Pakistani and- Canadi-an way of Life are so different in many rüays, I am therefore interested in find.i-ng out how Pakistani women residi-ng in Canad.a are adapting to the new environ-ment, in clothi-ng, specifically. I¡lithin the next few days you will receive a questionnaire on clothing practices and style preferences. I request your co-operation in answering the questions as conpletely and as honestly as possible.

Please d.o not sign the questi-onnaire. ThÍs will- ensure the anonynity of your ansr'iers. I hope you will give the questionnaire your serious thought and return it at your earli-est convenience. Yours sincerely,

Mrs. Ghazala Shaheen THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA FACULTY OF HOME ECONOMICS 131 WINNIPEG, CANADA R3T 2N2 TELEPHONE 2O4 474-939A DEPARTMENT OF CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

July Bth, 1975.

Dear Madam,

Enclosed- is the questionnaire on clothing practices and. style preferences of Pakistani women residing j-n Canada.

The questionnaire is divided- into three sections. Pl-ease read the instructions for each section very carefully before starting. I am i-nterested. in your personal opinions only, so kindly be as frank as possible and. refrain fron discussing the questions with someone el-se. Feel- free to write your answers and. comments in either English or Urd.u. To ensure the anonymity of your ansrüers, please d.o not sign the question- nai-re.

After completing the questionnaire, kindly mail it back using the enclosed. stanped, self-ad-d.ressed. envelope at your earLiest conveni-ence. Your prompt attention and ki-nd. co-operation is deeply appreciated.. Thank you.

Yours sincerely,

Mrs. GhazaLa Shaheen. THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA FACULTY OF HOME ECONOMICS T32 WINNIPEG, CANADA R3T 2N2 TELEPHONE 204 474-9398 DEPARTMENT OF CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

July 21st, 1975.

Dear Madam,

About two weeks ago, I sent you a questionnaire on clothing practices and style preferences of Paki-stani Ïiomen residing in Canada, as part of a study being conducted at the Uni-versity of Manitoba. I would sincerely like to thank you for your tine and- interest. If you have been unable to connplete the questionnaire, may I urge you to do so as soon as possible. If you feel it is not convenient for you to participate in the stud-y, please return the questionnaire" However, I hope you will be abl-e to help in the research. It wil-l- make the results more useful and valid-. Your time and. co-operation is greatly appreciated. Thank you. Yours sincerely,

Mrs. Ghazala Shaheen. THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA FACULTY OF HOME ECONOMICS 133 WINN¡PEG, CANADA R3T 2N2 TELEPHONE 204 474-939A DEPARTMENT OF CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

July 50th, 1975.

Dear Madam,

This is a follow-up of ny first letter d.ated. July 21st, 1975. I have received most of the questionnaires, but in ord-er to proceed. with the statistical analysis f need to have all of them back. I am therefore requesting your co-operation in returning the conpleted. questionnaire at your earliest convenience. Your pronpt attention and most kind. co-operation is greatly appreceiated-. Thank you. Yours sincerely,

Mrs. Ghazala Shaheen. THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA FACULTY OF HOME ECONOMICS L34 WINNIPEG, CANADA R3T 2N2 TELEPHONE 204 474.9398 DEPARTMENT OF CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

August 19t11, 1975.

Dear Mad-am,

A couple of weeks ago, f sent you a questionnaire on clothing practices and. style preferences of Pakistani lromen residing in Canad-a. If you have alread.y sent back the questionnaj-re, I would. like to thank you for your tine and- interest If you have been unable to complete the questionnaire, may I uïge you to d"o so as soon as possible. Your help will make my research more val-id and useful. However, if you feel- it is not convenient for you to participate in the stud.y, will you please return the questiomaire. Your ti-me and. co-operation is greatly appreceiated.. Thank you. Yours sincerely,

Mrs. Ghazala Shaheen. r! :.:r!: . a.:i1r2a 1; i.,fi.,:;

APPENDIX C

135 136 Category Ord.er for the Five StyJ-es for Each Garment Type

Pantsuits Swimsuj-ts a moderately conservative a moderate b moderately liberal b conservative ' c liberal c noderately liberal

d conservative d. mod-eratery conservative . e mod.erate e liberal

Dresses Blouses . a liberal ' a mod.eratelyconservative b moderately liberal b l-iberal c mod.erate c moderate d conservative d. noderatel-y liberal e moderately conservative e conservative

Gowns Sleepwear a moderately conseïvative 'a moderate b moderately liberal b mod"erately liberal c liberal c moderately conservative d conservative d liberal e moderate e conservative

Shalwar Kamíz Saris a moderate a moderate b conservative b conservative rnod.erate Iy conserva'tive c liberal d liberal e moderately liberal

Sari Bfouses . .:t.: . I i,::::, . a moderate b liberal- . c moderateLy conservative

e conservati-ve iì..., L37 The Order in hlhich Garments Appeared in Each Group of 25 Questionnãi"""

GROUP ] GROUP I] GROUP TIT

ShaLwar Kamiz Blouses Gowns Blouses Dresses Sleepwear Saris Swimsuits Blouses Sleepwear Sari-s Pantsuits

Swimsui-ts " Pantsuits Sr,¡imsuits Sari Bl-ouses Gowns Sari Bl-ouses Gov¡ns Sari Bl-ouses Saris Pantsui-ts Shalwar Kamiz Shalwar Kamiz Dresses Sleepwear Dresses

GROUP ÏV GROUP V GROUP VI

Sleepwear Swimsuits Saris Saris Sleepwear Sari Bl-ouses Shalwar Kamiz Saris Shalwar Kamiz Dresses Sari Blouses Swinsuits Blouses Gowns Sleepwear Gowns Dresses Gowns Swimsuits Shalwar Kamiz Pantsuits Pantsuits Blouses Bl-ouses Sari Blouses Pantsuits Ðresses

GROUP VII GROUP V]]I GROI]P ]X

Pantsuits Swimsuits Sari Bl-ouses Swimsuits BLouses Swinsuits Shalwar KamLz Sleepwear Shalwar Kamiz Dresses Saris Sleepwear Blouses Gowns Blouses Gowns Sari Blouses Pantsuits Sari Blouses Dresses Saris Saris Shalwar Kamiz Dresses Sleepwear Pantsuits Gowns

GROUP X Pantsuits Dresses Sleepwear Swimsuits Blouses Sari Blouses Saris Gowns Shalwar Kamíz ;'r i .:......

APPENDIX D

LETTER AND T¿UESTIONNAIRE TO SECURE THE NATVIES OF FEMALE RESPONDENTS

138 | :. ,:;:.1 \2f,

THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA FACULTY OF HOME ECONOMICS r39 WINNIPEG, CANADA R3T 2N2 TELEPHONE 204 474-9398 DEPABTMENT OF CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

January '1Oth, 1975.

Dear Madam, f am a graduate student in Cl-othing and. Textiles working on my Masterrs thesis. My research area is "Clothing Practices of Pakistani I'lomen Residing in Canad.all . To make this stud.y possible, , I will be nail-ing out questionnaires to Pakistani women to inquire about their clothing practices in Canad.a and rel-ated- questions. All information received wil-l- be completely confidential.

Please fill in the forn and send it back in the encl-osed. stamped self- add.ressed. envelope. Your pronpt attention and- co-operation will be highly appreciated.. Thank you.

Yours truly,

Mrs. Ghazal-a Shaheen. THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA FACULTY OF HOME ECONOMICS L40 WINNIPEG, CANADA R3T 2N2 TELEPHONE 2O4 474.939A DEPARTMENT OF CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

Is there a Femal-e residing at this ad-d.ress. YES

NAIlM

ADDRESS APT. NO.

CTTY PROV.

POSTAL CODE

Pl-ease give the names and. ad.d.resses of any other Pakistaní femal-es you know who have recently arrived in Canad.a.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR CO-OPERATION APPENDIX E

CHI-SQUARE TABLES FOR SIGNIFICAM RELATIONSHIPS

L4L - Îabl€ 2J L42 chj.-square Tables sho.wlng Reratlo.nshlp Beïween Relfglous comnitnent and crothtng Stylq ttorn and not Worn by tol Respondents

coltNl r RELICIOUS COHMITME}¡T ROs PCT I RC9 COL PCT I fai¡ly Íery extrenely lOIÀL TOT pCT Ir€ligious Jreliglousf religlousl ------r------I------I-____-__r LItsERAL Donot I 13 I 5?.. Í 1rt f . 79 SHALI,¡AR :Hoar. .I 16.5 I 65.8 I 1]..7 I ,7t\. 2 KÁr'fIzsTyLE I.56.5 I 91.3 I100.0 I T 12.9 r 51.5 r 13.9 I I',eêr -r------I------I------r I -lq r 12 r 0 r 22 r 45.5 r s4.5 r 0.0 r 21. 8 I 43.5 r 18.8 r 0.0 r I- --3:3--;- - ll:3- -i-- - 9:9- - i cotoltN 2t 64 1rr 10 1 TOTÀL 22.8 63. r¡ I 3.9 1oO. O -cnr souÀRE = 10.59g63 crrH 2-DEGREES op pBBEDoil srGlrrprcÀNcE g .o.0o50

. coulrT .I nELIcIous c0t{t{ITtfEl{T . nos PcT ' r ROg COL PCT I fairly very extrerely TOTÀL TeT pcT J æligiouqreligiousJ religl.ousl ------I- ----___I______I____.____ I LIBER-{L Do¡ot I .tl I 5q I lq f 81 SARI BLoUSE rear I 16.0 Í r>6.1 I 1?.3 I 80. 2 STTLE. I 56.5 I 8o.4 I lCO.o .. f T 12..9 r 51.5 r 11.9 r -r------I------I--__r___r .year r 10 r 10 r o r 20 r 50.0 r 50.0 r 0.0 r 19¡8 r q3.5 r 15.6 r 0.0 r - I 9.9 I 9.9 r 0.0 I - r------_-I _ _ ___ -_ _I______- I COLrtlt¡ 23 .. rrq 14 101 loTtl ?2.8 .63.4 1 3.9 100.0 eHr sortARE = 12.2785ü rrrH 2 DEGREES oF pnEEDcü srcr.rprcÀHcE = o.oo22

COONT I RELIG IOTS COI'ÍMITI,fENT ROr. PcT r R3H COL PCT I fâirly very extrenely 101À L 101 PC- Ireligious f religious I retlgiousf ------r------l------I------I CONSERVA- Donot I 15 T 55 I 1q f 84 TIVE Year I 17.9 f 65.5 I 16.7 I 83.2 S1{IMSUIl I 65.2 r 85'.e I 100.0 T STTLE I 14.c I 5ö.5 T 13.c I -t------I------I------I TearlSI 91 0I 17 'r q7.1 r 52.9 I 0.0 I 16. I r 3q.8 r lrl .1 I 0.0 r I 7.9 r 8.9 I 0.0 r ' -I------I------I------r c0Ln nN 23 6q lq 101 TOTÀL 22.A 63.r¡ 13.9 100.0 CFI SonÂqE = 8..¡7¡31 CITN 2 DPGREES OP FREEDOü SIcfrÞIcÀNcE = 0.0rq4

COTNT I IELICIOUS COMI.Í IÎMENT RO ¡T PCT I &0 tl . CoL PCî f fafrly re¡t/ ertrenely TOlÀL TOf PCT freligious I religious f religiousf - ---:- --l------r------r------I MODERÀTE Do not I 7 I 29 I 11 I 46 BLOUSE rea¡ I 15.2 I 60.9 I 23.9 I q5. 5 SlYLE r 30.r¡ I 03.8 I 78.6 I r 6.9 I 21 .'Ì I 10.9 I . -r------t------r------r l{sa¡ I 16 I 16 I 3 I 55 r 29.r r .Á5.5 r 5.5 I 5¡; 5 I 69.6 I 56.1 I 21.4 I r 15.8 r 35.6 r 1.0 r -r------I ------f COLÌ¡ I'ilt 23 6q 10 . 101 TOTÀL ?2.A 6.ì.r¡ 13.c r00.0 cEt s0ût8E o 8.35?55 ¡¡rltf 2 l,rEG8EEs CF pRpEDCll srcNrprcÀHcE r 0.0.153 L43 rabLe 27.(contlnued)

coulT I RELIG IOUS COÞfl'f ITMEI{T ROII PCT I ROr eOL PcT L falrly very extreoely lOTÀL ToT PCT Irellgious I religiousl religlousl ------t------t------r.------f UODER.ATELY Donot I 18 I rrÙ I 14 f 92 ITBERÀL cesr I 1C.6 T 65.2 | 15.2 I' 91.1 COI{N SÎYLE I 78.3 I 93.8 r 100.0 I r l?.q r 59.fi r 13.9 r -I------l------I--r-----I llear .r .-5 r.- f¡ r 0 r 9 r 55.6 r 44.4 I 0.0 r 8.9 r 21 .1 T 6.3 r 0.0 r r 5.0 r q.0 r 0.0 r -r------r------r------I coL4iü 23 6¿¡ 1q 101 ' TOTÀL 22.8 61 . tt 13.9 100.0 CEI SCÛARE = 6,59093 9ITH 2 DEGSEES OF FREEDOH SIGNIPTCÀilCE = 0.0371

conlrT T REI,IGIOUS CO}I}IITI.ÍENT ROçr PCT I R0 t¡ COL PCT I fairly very extremely lOTAL 'i: ToT PCT Ireltglous T religiousf rellgiousl ------:r------r------r------I _r t3 62 HODERATELY Donot 10 f.-.. 39 I I t LIBENAL rear I 16.1 I 62.9 I 21.0 I 61.¡¡ SLEEPWEAR ' r 43.5 T 60.9 r 92.9 r S1ÏLE r 9.9 r 38.6 f 12.9 r -r ------r ------r------r Year I 13 T 25 f 1 I 39 ' r 33,3 r 66.1 r 2.6 r 38.6 I 56.5 r 39.1 r 1.1 r r 12.9 I 2¿¡.8 I 1.0 r. -I ------I ------r------I corutt 21 6t¡ 'lr¡ 101 TDTÀL 22.8 63. q 1 3 .9 1 00 .0 cBI SOnÀnE = 8.96689 9ITH 2. DPGREES OF FsEEDOtt SIGNIFICTNCE = 0.0113

cotr¡Î I RELICToUS C0tft{rÏ{Eln 80tl Pcl r 80h' COL PCT I fairly very ertrenelY TOTÀ L TOT PCT: f r€ligiousl rellgiousf religiousl -- -:----r------r------r------r srltfsulls llear I I f 10 f 1 I 19 r q2.1 r 52.6 I 5.3 r 18.8 r 34.8 r 15.6 I 7.1 r 1 7.9 r 9.9 r 1.0 r :I------f---.----I------f Donot I 15,I 54 I 13 I 82 rear I 18.3 r 65.C J 15.9 r 81.2 -.: r 65.2 r 8ô.4 f 92.9 r l. .:ì r 1t¡.9 r 53.5 r. 12.9 r -r -.------I ------I------I coltËU 23 6¡l lc 10 | 101ÀL 22.8 61. q 1 3.9 100.0 CII sgnÀFE . . 5.51482 IITH 2-DEGREES CP lREEDoll SIG!¡fPfCIFCB = 0.0635

cotìrT I RELlG IOUS CO¡II'IITI'{ENT FOf ÞCT I ROC COL PCT I fairlY very extreEely TOlÀL TOT PCT I relislouslreliglous f roligiousl ------r------rI------r------I BLOUSESt{earI21 Itl6'III75 T 28JO t 61.3 I 10'7 I ?r¡'3 f 91.3 r 7'l .s r 57-1 r I 20.8 I r¡5.5 1 7.9 r -r- i------l------l------r Do not .r 2 r !8 r 6 r 26 rear t 1.1 r 6c.2 I ?3.1 r 25.7 T 8.? I 28.1 r q2.9 r .r..2.0 r 17.8 r 5.9 r -I------I------r------r coLtil{N 21 6rr . 1r¡ 101 lOTÀL 22.8 63.r¡ 1 3.9 100. 0 cir sOornr . 5.831?0 SJTR 2 tiEcPEEs oP FREEDoH SIGNTFICÀNCE ¡ 0.0542 L44 .Tablo 2J (contfnued)

COUNT T RELICIOUS COI'II{IÎ¡EITT FO¡r PCT I ROf COL PCT f fairly vory extrenely TOTÀL lOT PCT f relÍgiousÏrel,fglousl religiousl ------r------I------l------T SHÄLWAR l{ear f 18 I 58 I 14 I 90 KNTILZ I 20.0 I .60.4 J 15.6 I 89.1 t 78.3 r 90.6 r 100.0 I I 17,8 r 57.4 .r 13.9 r - r------r ------.- I.------r Do not .f 5 f 6 f O T 11 wear I 45.5 I 5lt.5 I 0.0 I 10.9 Í 2',t.1 r 9.4 r O.O T r 5.0 r 5.9 r 0.0 r -r------r------r---.----- I CoLUrlN 23 6t¡ lq 101 TOTÀL 22.8 63.4 13.9 100.0 CRI S00ÀRE = q.65152 ¡IITH 2 DBGREES OF PnEEDOII SfGNIFICÀIICE - 0.09?7

COUNT I RELIGIOUS COI,û,TITMEI{T : : . Roft PcT r Ror .1'. ,: .,

. coL PCT f fairly very eztrenely TOTÀL :' . , ToT PCT Irelfgiousfreligiousl leligiousl ------j-I------I------I------r :.: ..:.. ...: I,ÍoDERATELY Do not r 13 | 22 I I I 43 | l:'..:::-;:::.:- COIISERVA- uea¡ I lO.2 I 51 .2 I 18.6 f 42.6 r::ì-: : :" ÎM r 56.5 I 3¿t.4 r 57.1 r SHÂLI{ARKAT'ÍIZ r.12.9 f 21 .8 1 7.9 r - STYLE - -I------r------T------f r..-, Hearf10l42I6I58 ! 17.2 f 72.q r 10.3 f 57.r¡ r tt3.5 r 65.6 I f¡ 2.9 r r 9.9 r q1.6 I 5.9 r -r------I-----i--I------I ccLoðr¡ 23 66 . . 14 101 TOTÀL 22.e 63.r¡ 13.9 1OO.O CHI SOÙAFN = 0.80528 ¡¡ITH 2 DECREES CF FBEEDOTI SIGNIFICÀNCE = O.O9O5

conr¡Î r RELICIoUS ColÎ,r1î.lEril POf' PCT I ROI' COL PCT T fairly very ertænely TOTÀL . TOT PCT freligiousl reIigiousI religiousl ------I------T------I------: f I,iCDERAIE Donot f 16 I 21 I I r 51 S.ARf BLoUSE ree¡ f lt.l¡ I 52.c I 15.7 ¡ 50.5 STTLE r 69.6 I U2.2 r 57. I r r 15.8 I 2(r.1 I ?.9 I -I------.-r------r------r líear I- ? I 37 T 6 I. 50 ' I 1r¡.0 I ?q.0 I 12.0 I rr9.5 r 30.q r 51.8 r ù2.C I T 6.C r .36.6 r 5.9 r. -r------I------r------r cclniN 23 68 14 10 1 ToTrL 22,A 63.q 13.9 .1oO.O CHr SoûÀRE = 5..36.05? srTH 2 DEGFEES OP FREEDOI SIGHIFICÀI¡CE - 0.0685

nblrc rous cor,rr{rrr{ENT ROg PCT r Ro¡l COL PCT I fairly very ertrenely ÎOTAL TOT PCi f religious f religiousl religiousf

I------I------=-I------I , ', '., , . LTBERAL Do noi I 1? r 55 r.. lt¡ .r -. . 86 ,t.l '::r: : iìì.i:: -::: ',i SLEEPT{F,AR rear I 19.8 T 6q.0 I 16.3 I 85.1 :"' srïLE r ?3.9 r B5.c r loo.o l . r 16.8 r 5¿¡.5 r 13.9 I -r------I------l------I Tear Í (t I 9 I 0 I 15 . r 40.0 r 60.0 r 0.0 r 1¡¡.9 I 26.1 I 1rr.t f 0.0 r. r 5.9 I 8.e r 0.0 r r------r------T------r col,utr¡ 21 6q 10 101 TOTÀL 22.8 63.¡ r3.9 100.0 CHI SgrrtRE ' 4.?6932 llfTH 2 DEGREES OF FREEDOII SIGIIIPICÀNCE ¡ 0.0921 ..:: .. Table 24 L45

chi-equsro îables shoving Relatronshlp Between Ago and clothlng style llorn and not .Uo¡n by t6 Respondents

co0Hl r ACE AT TIME OF STUDY Ror PcT I .RO II col. pcl r TOl ÀL ToT PcT 120-25 yrsf26-10 wsl rl-i5 yrsT. J6-!O yrsl4l & overf I ------I--:------f ------I------I------f ------f CONSERYA- Do not f '19. I 2't T. 2q I I I 3 I 81 TIVE Hear I 23.5 Í- 33.3 I 29.6 I 9.9 I 3.i I B4.l¡ SARI BI.OUSE r. 82.6 I 93.1 r 80.0 r 100.0 I . 50.0 r STTI,E . r f9.8 T. 28.1 T 25,0 r 8.3 r 3.1 . r' -r------r------t------J--:-- ---r------r llear I l¡ I 2 I 6 I O I 3 f 15 r 26.7 r 13.3 r 40.0 r 0.0 r 2o.o r 15.6 r 17..¡ I. 6.9 r 20.0 r 0.0 I 50.0 r I r¡.2 r .2.1 I 6.3 r 0.0 I 3.1 I -I------I------I------I------I------I colni,l!¡ 23 29 30 I 6 96 10TÀL 24.0 30.2 3 1.3 8.3 6.3 100.0

CEI SoUIPE = 9.O2510 SITE 4 DEGR.EES Op FREEDOIí SIGÈIFICÀT¡CE è O. O605

, Table 25 T46 Chl-squa¡e Tables Shoulng Relatlonshlp Eetween Age at Time of ArrlvaL ancl Clothlng Style Uorn and uot ltlorn by 9l nespondents ^broad

coftNl I ACE AT lIl{E 0F AR-RTVAL ABROAD ROg PCT I I0't COL PCT I lOTAL TOT PcT Il?-20 yrsJ21-25 yraÍ 26-7Q yrsl tt & ovel{ ------r------r------t------r------r SLEEPIIEAR llear I 16 I 38 f 2q I 5I 83 I 19.3 r r¡5.8.I 28.9 I 6.0. I 91.2 . r 100.0 f e2.1 r 92.3 r 62.5 f r 17.6 r tt1.8 r 26.4 r 5.5 ; -r - --- -: -- r ------T.------r ------r Donot I 0 I 3 I 2 I 3 I I Hear I 0.0.I 37.5 I .25.0 I 37.5 I 8.8 r 0.0 r 7.3 L 7.1 r 37.5 I r 0.0 r 3.3 T .2.2 r 3.3 r - r------r ------T------r------r COLUI!N 16 4r 26 I 91 101ÀL 17 .6 45. r 28.6 8.8 100.0

CñT SQUARE = 9.91552 ¡lÎH ì DEGREES OP TREBDOð SIGNIFICAIICE = 0.0193

COONT I ACE AT TIIÍE OF ÂR.BIYAL ÂBROÀD ROr{ PCl r ROf col. pcT r lOTÀL

Sf,{LYAR K tlIZ

Donot T 1 I 9 I O f 0 I 10 reår I 10.0 I 90.0 I 0.0 I 0.0 I 1 1.0 r 6.1 i 22.0 r 0.0 r 0.0 r ' r 1.1 .r 9.9 r 9.0 r 0.0 r ' -f ------I-----:--f ------I------I COLU I T 16 41 .26 A 9,| lOTÀL 17.6 q5.1 2A .6 8.8 100.0

C8I SOI'AF B = 9.60195 srTH 3 DEGRBES OF TNEEDg¡I SIGt¡IFICTIICE = 0.0223

coûNT r AGE ÂT TII'IE OF AR.RTVAL ABROAD FO'T PCT .I ROt{ COL þCT I .101AL TOT PCT l1?-2O yrs.I2l-25 yrsl ?6-1O y.rsDl & over I ------I------:- I------r-:------l------I ' SARIS Tear | 12 I 40 I I 25 I 7r- 8¿l r 1q.3 I u7.6 f 29.q r 8.3 r 92, 3 . r 75.0 I 9?.6 I a6.2 r 87.5 I ' I 1.3.2 I 44.0 ï 27.3 T 7.7 r -I------r------r- J------r------r Donot I q T 1 f 1 I 1 I 7 rea¡ I. 5?.1 T 111.3 I 1r¡.3 I lq.3 I 1.7 r 25.0 r z.tt r .3.8 r 12.5 r r r¡.r¡ r 1.1 r 1.1 r 1.1 r -r--¿-----r------r------r------I COLUqN 16 .¡1 26 I 91 TOTÀL 17.6 q5.1 28.6 8.8 100.0

CHI SOUÀR8 = 9.1r¡558 tlItH 3 DPGREES OF. PREED0ñ SIGTIIFICÀNCE = 0.027r¡

co.ur¡Î I AOE AT ÎI}IE OF ANRIVAL ÂBROAD RO? PCT I nos : COL PCT T rðrlr ::: ToT ÞcT fl?-20 yrs.I2l-25 yrÀr 26-30 yrsl Jl & overl it, ------I------T------r------r------I SARI llesr I 12 f r¡0 I 25 I 7T fl l¡ BLOUSES r 1r¡..3 I ¡¡?.6 I 29.8 I 8.3 I 92.1 r 75.0 r 97.6 r 96.2 r 87.5 r r 13.2 I r¡0..0 f 21 .5 | 7.1 I -r------T------r------r------r Donot I t¡ I 1 I 1 I I I 7 ïear I 57.1 I 14.1 I lq.l I 1l¡.3 f 7.7 r 25.0 t. ?..4 r 3.fì r 12.5 r r q.q r 1.1 r 1.1 I 1.1 I -r------r------r------r------.-r 16 4t 9 1 :..: coLnlll 268 rr' lOTÀL 1?. 6 rt5. I 28.6 8.8 100.0

CnI SOUI.R9 = 9.1r¡558 gITH 3 DEGPnES OF FFEEDcn sIGilrrrcÀHcE. t 0.02?q l::ìj;:l:;:

L47 Table 25 (contlnuett)

COUNî I AGE AT TIHE OE ARRML ABROTTD FO fI PCT I RO9 COL PCT I TOTAL TOT PCT 117-20 yrs.!21-25 yßJZ6-JA yrsl Jt & overf ------I------I------I------r------I CONSERVA- Do not I 11 I 28 I- 14 I 1I 54 TlVE Hear I 20.4 I 5'1 .9 I 25.9 I 1.9 r tr' SÄRI STYLE -t 68.8 r 58.3 r 53.8 T. 12.5 r l 1 1?-.1 I 10.9 I 15.rr. r 1.1 I -l------'I---L- ---r------I------I Weâr I 5 I 13 I 12 r 7T 17 r 13.5 r 35.1 T. 12.4 Í 18.9 r 40.1 I 31.3 I 31 .:t I r¡6.2 r 87.5 r I 5.5 I 14.3 f 13.2 f 7.1 I -r.------r------I------I------I coLftHH 16 {¡f 26 I 91 lOTÀL 11 .6 45. 1 28 .6 8.8 100.0 CEf SQUÀRE = 9.54908 I{ITH 3 DEGREES OF FREEDOI| SIGNIFICÀHCE = O.OZ2B

COI'NT I ÂCE AT TI¡'.IE OF ARRIVAL ABROÁD .ROI.PCT I BOÍ COL PCT I TOT AL TOT PCT I1?-2O yrs f21-25 ytsl26-tO yrsl 31 & overf f ------I------I------f ------I'. PAIfISUITS. l{ear .l 16 I .19 | 25 I 6 I 86 I.18.6 r q5.3 r- 29.1 r 7.0 r 94.5 I 100.0 I e5.l I c6.2 r 75.0 I T 17.6 I 02.q r 27.5 I 6.6 I . -r------I-----.---r------I------I Donot f 0.I 2 I 1 I 2 L '5 cear ' I 0.0 I 00.0 T 20.0 r 40.0 .I 5.5 I 0.0 I ü.9 .I 3.8 I 25.0 r r' 0.0 r 2.2 r 1.'r r 2.2 r -f ------f ------f ---:----I------I colltllll 16 ¡r 26 I 91 TOTÀL 17.6 t¡5.1 28.6 8; I 100.0 CBI SoUIRB =. 6.95'79¡ ¡.ITH 3 D?GREES oP F8E3D0ü - SIGIIFICÀI¡C? = 0.0733

CoUl¡T r AcE AT TIIE OF ARRML ABROAD POII PCT I ROP col Pcl I 101ÀI, TCT PCT 11?-20 yrs f2t-25 _vrs I Z6-tO yrsf Jt & ove¡f -.- ---:--I------f--:-----T------I------I c0llNS lea¡ I 15 I 26 f .19 I 4I 64 I 23.r¡ T r¡0.6 t 29.7 r 6.3 l 70.3 I 93.8 I 63.r¡ I ?3.1 I 5o.o I ..f 16.5 | 25.(, I 20.9 I tt.r¡ I -I--:-----.r------I---¡____ I______I Donot I 1 I 15 f ? I 4 I 27 year I 3.7 I 55.6 f 25.e 1 l4.B I 29.1 I 6.3 I 36.6 r 26.9 r 50.0 r -r 1.1 I 16.5 f 7.7.T ¡¡.¿¡ r -I:------l------I------I------r C OLU I{N 16 q1 268 q1 q5. lOTÀL 17 .6 1 28.6 8.8 t00.0

CRI SOUÀRE = 6.82382 ¡lIlH 3 DEGREES Op FREEDo¡r SIGNIpICÀNCE ¡ O.O?7? lablo 25 L48

. Chl-oquaro Tábles Showing Relationehip Between Educatlor¡ ênld Clothing Styl€ Horn and. not llorn by 1Ol Reepondento

. ROÍ PCT. r' ROI{ CoL pcT J Eatrlc- college poet- ÎOTÀL TOT PCT J ulation I I gråduatel ! ------:-I------I------T - -' --'- -Í SÁRIS l{ear I 14 I t¡8 I 31 I 93 r 15.1 r 51.6 r 33.3 r 92.1 r 73.-t r 96.0 r 96.9 r r 13.9 r 47,5 r 30.7 r -r------r ------r-'------r Donot I 5 f 2 I 1 I I ïear T. 62.5 I 25.0 I 12.5 f 7 .9 r 26.3 r 4.0 I 3.1 r r 5.0 r 2.0 r 1.0 r -I- ----:--I------I------I coLUHN 19 50 32 10 1 ToTÀL 18.8 q9.5 31.7 100.0 cFf S0ûÀFE = 10.87800 IITH 2 DEçnEEs OP PBEEæll SIGHIPICÀ}¡CE = O.OO43

COIINT T EDUCATION Pos Pcl r ROl COL PCT f natric- college post- TOTÀL TOT PCT T ulation f I graduate f I------I------I------I SARI lrqar r 14 I 48 I 31 r 93 BLousES i]',.] i3J:3i33:lie2¿1 I 13.9 I 47.5 I 30.7 r -T------I ------r ------I Donot I 5 T 2 I 1. I 8 rear T.62.5 I 2s.0 I 12.5 r 7.9 I 'å:3 i )'.3 Ì:J i -I------I------I------I I col.uírr 19 50 32 10 1 TOTÀL 18.8 49.5 31.7 100.0 cHI sgUÀRE = 10.87800 l¡ITtl 2' DEGnEES cF FBEEDo¡t sIGt¡IPICÀICE = O.OOt¡3r

. coI]ÈT f EDUCAIIOI¡ FOn PCT I 80* COL PCT f natric- college post- IOIÀL TOT PCT f ulatlonf I graduatê I ------I------I------I------r CoI{SERVA- Do not f 18 Í Z7 I t6 I 6l . ÎM Hear I 29. 5 I r¡rt.l I 26.2 T 60. ¡t SARI STILE Í. gu.1 I 5r¡.0 T 5O.O r r 17.8 I 26.7 I 15.8 I -T------I -: --- _- - I _- -_ ____ r ïearr1rziT16rqo T 2.s .r 5?.5 I 40.0 r 39.6. r 5.3 r q6.0 r 50.0 r I 1.0 f 22.8 r 15.8 I -I------I-----:--r------I . coL0{N 1 9 50 32 to 1 10TåL 18.8 rt9.5 31.? 100.0 .CHr SOUÀRE = t1.66863 nll¡t 2 DEGBEES Op FREEDoü SIGNIFICÀNCE = 0.0029

COUNT T SDUCATIO¡I Fcc Pcr r nor COL PCT I nat.ric- college post- TOTÀL , TCT PCT I uLation I I graduate I r--;----- I------I------I ;- ::', .. CONSERVA- Do not I 15 I 22 I 12 I u9 TIVE wear I 10.6 I llt¡.9 I 2t¡.5 I 48.5 BLOUSESTTLE. I zg.9 r ¡¡o.O r 3?.'S I - r 10.q r,21.S r 11.9 I . -r------r------r------I . Tear I l¡ J 7.8 I 20 I 52 r 7.? r 5l.R I 18.5 r 51.5 r 21.1 I 56.0 I 62.5 r . I 0.0 r'27,'t r 19.8 I r------I------I------I coLUñN 19 50 32 IO 1 .101[L 18.8 q9.5 31.7 100.0 CtlI sOtÀRE = 9.00726 9ITH 2 DEGREES CP FFTEDOT SIGNIFICÀìCE ¡ 0.0111 tabLø 26 (contlnued) L49

COI'NT T EDUCÀTION nosPcTLBot¿ COL PCT f Eatrlc- college post- ÎOTAL loT PcT f: ufatlon I I graduatel ------T------r------r------r I40DERATELT Donot I 15 Í 29 r 1q I 58 coNsERVÂ_ year r 25.9 r 50.0 1 2u.1 1 57 .4 Tn¡E I 18,c I 58.0 I'41.8 I PANTSUIT STTLE r 14.9 I 28,1 I 13.9 I -I------I ------I- -- --.- - - I l{ear I 4 L 21 I 18 I 43 r 9.3 r q8.8 r q1.9 r tt2.6 r .2 1.1 r 42.0 r 56.3 r I q.0 T 20.8 I 17.8 T. - r--r-----I------I------I . colurlr¡ 1c 50 32 101 . 10?ÀL 18.8 1t9.5 -1 1.7 100.0 cHI SOUÄRP- = 6.05q23 rtlTtl2 DEGREES oF FREEDOH SIGNIFTCÀICE =. 0.0tt85

COUIIT T EDI]CÂTION FO IT PCT J EOII . COL PCT f naùric- college post- TOTÀL. TCT PCT I ulationl I g¡aduatef ------I------r------r------f I'IoDERÂTELT Donot T 12 I 19 I I I 39 CONSERVA- rear T 30.8 I 48.7 I 20.5 I 38.6 TIVE T (,3.2 r 38.0 f 25.0 I ' BIOUSE STTLE I 11.9 I 1'8.8 T 7.9 I .. -r------r------r------r llear I 1 T l1 T 2a T 62 f 11.3 r 50.0 r 38.7 r 61.¿¡ I 36.8 r 62,0 r 75.0 r r 6.9 r 30.7 I 23.8 f - i------i------i------r ccl,fnlN 19 50 32 101 10TÀL 1 8.8 49.5 3 1 .7 1 00. 0 CFI SOI'IPE = 7.338?4 ITITF 2 DEçREES CP FNEbDOH SIGTIPICAì¡CE = 0.0255

co0NT r EDUCATIoI{ ROH PCT T. ROIJ COL PCT I nairic- college post- lOfÀL TOT PCT I utationl I graduatef ------:I------I------I-;------I ¡'{oDERÀTELY Do not r 1? ! 21 I 1? r 6r. CO¡iSERYA- resr T 21 .9 I ¡¿¡.3 L 27.9 T 60.tt TrvE r 89.5 r 50.0 r 53.1 r I SLEEP'í¿ARSTytE r 16.I î -26.'t r 16.8 r -r------r------I------T tiear I 2 .T 23 T 15 r 40 I 5.0 I 5?.5 I 37.5 I 39.6 .:. : : .110.5 Ir¡6.0 146.9 I ...::r::.:..:.':.:ì: : 'r 2.O I 22,5 f 1u.9 r I------l------r------r :. . .1.1 COLTJ{N 19 50 32 1.0 1 q9.S ,',',,., TOTÀL 18.8 31.? 100.0 i.t,. , ,' CEI SOUàRE = 8.27866 HITH .2 DEGREES OP FREEDOII SIGNIFICÀIICE = O.O¡59

co0$1 T EDUCATIoil RO{ PCî I Rot COL PCT fnatric- collego post- ToTÂL . TOT PCT I ulation I I graduate I ------.-r------I------I------r llODERr4TE Do.not I 1l I 21 I 11 f q5 BLOUSE near T 28.9 I q6.? f 2q.4 f ¿¡q.6 sTrlrr: I 68. r¡ I r¡2.0 I 3U. rt I T 12.9 I 20.8 T 10.9 r - I------I------r------r Year I 6.. I 2

CRI SOtiÀFE = 5.85538 Llln 2 DEGP.EES CF FnEEDOH SIGI¡IFICINCE r O.OS35 l:lr::t:-..ì:tvrìiì:i:

150 Tab].ø 27 . Chl-aquaro Tableg Shor_ing Relationchlp BetHesn'Education .Abroad anil Clothlng , . , Style. tlorn and not 'rlorn by lO2 Respondents :

COUNÍ T EDUCATION ACQUIRED IN THE r{ESÎ ROft Pcr r pof, CoL PCT I had had not TOTÀL lOT PCT I acqulred.l acqulredl ------I------I------'i I ' HoDERÁTELT Do not I 18 i zS ql LIBER-AL Heaf T .l9.4 I 80.6 I 91.2 col{N STYLE r 78.3 r 94.e I T 11.6. t ?1.5 I _I_-__-___I-______I :.:.. ..._. Wear I 5 T u I g :.:.::'::. .. I 55.6 I r¡.¡.q I B.B T 21.7 T. 5.1 r' r 4.9 r 3.9 I -f------I: ------f coLUtlr{ 21 19 102 ,. . TOTÀL .22,5. 77.5 100.0 . CoRRECTED CHI SoUÀRE 4. = 25913 ¡tIlH 1 DEGREE oF PREEDOTÍ sIGñIrIcÀl{cE = 0. 0390 . , :.... t t.. ..:: ... .t.. ;:: , COU¡IT T EÐUCATION AòQUIRED IN TIIÎ h'EST FOII PCT I FOH ' COL PCT f had had not , :- ' TOTÀL l:"l '1.::' l:l_::l_i-::1::'::i_1_':::"j_l ,', i,,,,,, IiÍODER.ATELY Donot I 9 I 5q f 63 l LIBER.ÂL wear I 1tl ..1 I q5.7 I 61.8 StEEPh-rjAR I 19.1 r 6g.q r STYLE r 8.8 I 52.9 r . -I------I------r gear r 1q r 25 r 39 r 35.e r 64.r r 38.2 T 60.9 I 31.6 I r 11.7 I 2r¡.5 r i -I------I------I ' l coln[N 23 79 102 TOTÀL .?2.5 17.5 100.0 CORRECTED CHI SOUÀRE = 5.26408 IIITH 1 DE.GSEE oF FFEEDoË SIGNITIcÀÙcE = o.021g

. COUI¡T T EDUCATION ACQUIRED IN 1II.3 VESÎ ROf. PC? I FOg COL PCT f hsd had not TOTÀL TOT PCT T acquired I acqulr€dJ ------r------r------r CoÌ{SERVÀ- Donot I 16 I 6q I 85 îM Hear T 1ß.8 J n1.2 I 83.3 . SHTHSUIT I 69.6 I 87..3 I STïLE I 15.7 6'r.6 -r------r------rf r. . l{eår I ? I 10 I 1? .r4't.2 I58.8 I16.7 I l0.r¡ f 12.1 I r 6.9 I 9.8 ,r -I------:I------f colftñÌt 23 79 102 TorÀL 22.5 77.5 100.0

CORRECTED CHI sottÀRß = 2.87.t18 Llrn.1 D¡GREE OF FAEEDoü SIGIIFICI!¡CE = O.O9O0

' COUNT I EDUC^TION ACQUIRED IIT THE }IEST ROH PCT t to" . COL PCT I bsd had not TOTÂL TOT PCT I acquired ¡ acquiredf ------r------r ------r LIBERÂL Do not I 15 | 6i t. 82 SARIBIOUSE wear I 18.1 I 81.7 I gO.q STÍI,E I 65.2 I Br¡.8 I. r 1rr.l ¡ 65.7 I . _l-:____-_I______-_r llear J c I t2 I 20 I r¡0.0 I 60 ,0 I 19.6 I I 3¿l .8 r 1s.2 I I 7.8 I 11.8 r -r------I------r ,colofrN 2t .79 102 TOÎÀL 22.5 17 .5. 1 o 0.0 coRREcTEIT cHI soulRE * l.18.t20 gITR I DEcRE; oF FpE.EDon sIGuIFIcÀNcE ¡ 0.o?r¡r¡ rebLe 28 ' 151 Chl-square lablee Showlng Relattonshlp Eetween O""rprtion and Clothing Style llorn and not Worn by 1O2 Rospondeûts

COI'NT ] OCCUþÂTION FOII PC? I ROg COL PcT f homo- car€er TOTÀL TOT:------r------r------r PCT J nakers I wonen I CoNSERVA- Do not T tr3 1 7 I 50 TM near f 86.0 I 1tl .0 I t19.0 BI,OUSE. STII¡E I 56.6 I 2(,.9 I, f tt2.2 T 6.9 r -I---.----I------I t{ear r 3.3 r 19 r sz r 63.5 r '16.5 r 51.0 r q3.4 r 73.1 r \ . r 32,4 r 18.6 r. . -I-L------I------I colorN 76 26 102 . TorÀL ?q.5 25.5 loO.O coRREclED cHT SoUÀRE = 5.68260 ÍIIIH 1 DEGHEE OP PREEDOII SIGNIPTCÀNCE = 0.0171

COÍ'IIT I OCCUPATION FOra PCT r aoH coL PcT J hone- career loTÀL TCT PCT I makers J romen I -f------I-:------f I'ÍODERÀTELY DO NOt f 56 I 13 I 69 LIBERT\L vear I 81.2 I 18.8 I 67,6 På}¡?SUIl r ?3.7 r s0.0 r SlYIE r 54. 9 r ',12.7 r -I-:--.--r-r------I Ytear f zo r 1l r 33 r 32'¿r i 5i:! i ii:ö -i--ll:!--i--11:l--l C Cf,U'l tf 16 2r\ 1Oz . TOTÀL ?4.5 25.5 . 100'0 CoRRECT;,'D CHI SCUÀ98 = 3.94205 ¡.fTH 1 DEGBEE OP FBEEDOII SIGNIPICÀNCE = 0.0r¡71

COO{Î I OCCUPATION Por Pcr r Roc COL PCT f bome- care.e.r TOTAL TOT PCT f nakers f Honen.- I ------r------r------r .COÌ{SERVA- Do not Í 61 I 1q I 85 TTVE rear I 78.8 f 21.2 I- 83.7 ' sïr¡rsurl r 88.2 r 69.2 f - I 65.7 I 1?.6 I ST'LE r------r------r l{ea¡ I 9 f I I 17 I 52.9 .I l¡7.1 I 16.7 r 11.8 r 3O.S I - i- --!:3-- ¡ -- -i:1 --i COLU:'ltt 16 2(t 102 ' ToTÀL 7r¡.5 25.5 100.0 conBEcTED crtr S90ÀRE = 3.72692 HfTn 1 DEGnEE OP PREEDoII srGNrFIcÀNcE = 0.0535

cottlT I . oCCUPATIoN ' Roï Pcr r Fot{ col PcT T home- career ToTÀL TOT PCT f nakers I vonen I ---I------I------'-I COI{SERVA- Do not I 16 I 18 I 5q ' . TM Hear J Á6.7 I 3l. 3 'Í. 52.9 SLEEP'dEAR r r¡?.4 f .69.2 I sTrLE I 35.3 r 17.6 f r------T------r ' - t{ear f 0O I R T, l¡8 , T 8.3.3 I 16.7 r q?.1 I 52.(r' f 30.8 I

- 1- -ll:3-- i-- - l:1- - I cor.n {È 'r 6. 26 102 TOTAL 7r¡.5 25.5 .100.0 copREcrED cnr souÀRE = i.aooaz urrl 1 DEcEEE oF FREEIToI srcurrrcÀ!¡c¡ E o.oB91 !-.:i,.i!..,,,_-:,¡!

Table 29 L52

Chl-square lables Shoying Retationshlp Between Length of Reslde¡rce 1n the Ueet and Clothing Style llorn and not Horn by iOo Reepondente.

' . COUNT T LENGTH OF RESIDENC¡] ITf lHE I{EST ROI{ PCT T 80ll ..coLPcTI.. .. . ÎOÎÀL - TOT pCT. I 1yr 1 2-3ytsL 4-jyts ¡6-10yref il&overf ------l------I------I-----:--I------I-.------I,l SITIMSUITS I'lear r 3 r I 0 I t3 f Z I t9 I 15.8 I 5.1 r o.o r 68.rt I 10.5 r 19.0 I 12.5'.1.0 r 4.5 r 0.0 r 40.6 I 22.2 f - r r 1.0 r 0.0 r 13.0 2.0 r -I------r------r-______I______-_I______r Donot I 21 T 21 I 13 I .19 f j r 81 . Hear r 25.9 I 25.9 I 16.0 I 23.5 1 8.5 I 81.0 r 8?.5 I 95.5 r 100.0 I 59.4 r 71.q I t 21.0 I 21.0 r 13.0 r 19.0 r ?.0 r -I------I------r------I------_I______-_r coLf,ltN 2q 22 13 32 9 100 TOTÀL 24.0 22.O 13.0 32.0 9.0 100.0 CHr SOÛÀRE = 16.4791 9 PrTR 4 DEGREES OF FRlEDott SIGNIFICINCE = 0.0020

cou!¡T r LENCTË OF RESIDENCE IN lEE hEST ROg PCT I . ROI' COL PCT I TOTAL .ToT PcT I I yr I 2-7 yts I 4-5 yrs I 6-10 y¡{''l1 & ove:f ------I--:----- I------I------I------r------r COIISERVA- Donot I 21 f 21 r 13 r 19 f 1 i a¡ TIVE real. I 21.1 I 25.3 I 15.1 f 22t9 Í 8.4 I 83.0 si{Ir,tsulT , r q5.8 I 95.5 I 100.0 r 59.q I 77.8 I STYI,E r 23.0 r 21.0 -r------r------r------r------r---:----rr 13.0 { 19.0 r ?..0 r liear I 1 r 'l .r o r 13 î 2.T 17 J 5.9. r 5.9 I 0.0 T 76.5 I 11.8 I 1?.0 I r¡.2 I r¡.5 I 0.0 I 40.6. f 22.2 T. r 1.0 r 1.0 r 0.0 r 1J.0 r 2.0 I -I: ------I------I---.-----I-- --: ---r------I coLU!r{ 2A 22 13 32 9 100 TOTÀL 24 .0 22,0 13.0 32. 0 9.0 100. 0 cHr sO¡l[RE = 20.t14q9 ttrrH t¡ DEGREES op FREED0|T srGHrFrcÀNcE = 0.00orr

couf{T I LENGÎH OF RESIDEI{CE.IH THE UEST ROH pCT . I ROll COL PCT T lolAL ToT PCT f I yr I 2-J yrs I 4-5 yrs I 6-10 yrs Ill &.overl ------T------r------r------I------I------I COHSERVA- Do not I 1r¡ I 6 I 3 T 7 I 3 I 33 . TIYE xea! .¡2.1¡ ' I I 18.2 I 9.1 f'21.2 I 9.1 r 33.0 PA}I'TSUIT r 58.3 T 27.3 :t 2t.1 r 21 .9 r.33.3 r STTLE r 1¿t.0 r 6.0 r 3.0 r 7.0 r '3.0 r -r------I------I------I------I---¿----t t{ear Jr 10 r 1(r r 10 r 25 r 6. r 67 r 1!.9 I 23.9 I 14.c I 3?.3 I 9.0 I 67.0 r ql.? Í 12.1 I 't6.9 T 78.1 I 66.7 I r 10.0 16.0 -r------I------r------r------I------rI I 10.0 T 25.0 1 6.0 r col,fit¡t 2u 22 13 32 9 100 101åL 2¡r.0 22.O I 3.0 32.0 9.0 loO.O CHI SoUÀRE = c.66344 SITH r¡ DEGPEES OP FFEEDoü SIcNIFIcÀNCE = 0.0465

COUI¡T I I,ENGTH OF RESIDENCTì IN THE hEST ROq PCl r ROll col, pcT r 101ÀL TOT PCT f 1 yr I 2-1 y¡s f4-5 yrs I6-tO yrs Ill & overl ----I------I------I------I------I------r HODERÀTELY Do not I l0 | 12 f 1 I 12 I 6 I ttl CONSÈRVA: sear I 2l¡.4 I 29.3 I 2.,t I 29.3 I 1u.6 I .t1.0 ' TtvE I f¡1.? I 5f¡.5 1 7.1 I 37.5 r 66..? I. SHALYÄRKAI'|IZ I r0.0 I t2.0 r 1.0 r 12.0 r 6.0 I STTLE -T------I------I------r-:------I------I ' l{ear I l4 I 10 I 12 I 20 I 3 I 59 r 23.7 | 16.9. r 2C.3 r 33.9 r 5.1 I 59.0 I 58.3 I 45.5 I 92.3 r 62.5 r 3.1 .3 I r 1r¡.0 r . 10.0 12.0 ' -I------r------I------r------I------rr I 20.0 r 3.0 r COLTT F T 2q 22 13 32 c 100 TOTÀL ?.u.0 22,0 11.0 32.0 9.0 100.0 CHI SOUÀRE = 10.2u821 t IlH 4 DEGREES OP FREEDOü SIGUIÈICÀNCE = O.O36II Ital¡le 29 (conttnued) 153

corll¡T r .. LENCTH OF RESIDE!{CE IN THE IfEST FOH PCT I ROs COL PCT I lOTÀ L TOT PCT I 1 yr T 2-7 yrs I 4-5 yrs J 6-10 yrsJll & overf ------t-;------r------r------r------r------f PAMSUITS Year I 20 r 21 Ì 11 I 32 I 9r93 - r 21 .5 f. 22.6 r .11.8 r 34.4 r 9.? I,.-93.0 T 83.1 I q5.5 r 8¡¡.6 r 100.0 r. 100.0 r r 20.0 r 21.0 r 11.0 t 32,0 r 9.0 r -r------r------r------Jr------r ------r Donot I t¡ I 1 Í 2 T 0 I 0 I 7 rea¡ I 57.1 I 1q.3 f 28.6 I 0.0 I 0.0 r 1.0 - .r 16.'1 r 4.5 r 15,0 r 0.0 r 0.0 T. r 0.0 r 1.1 r 2.0 r 0.0 r 0.0 r -f -:------I------I------f------I------I . coltlt.f tl 2tt 22 13 32 9 100 TOT,AL 24,0 22 .0 13. 0 32. O 9.0 100.0 cHI sOnf,RE = 8.13845 HrTE O DEGREES OF FREEDOI1 SIGNIPICÀUCS = 0.0866

CONNT T LEI{GîE OF RESIDENCE.IN TM lfEST ROC PCT I R0¡l COL PCT I lOT ÀL TOT pCT I I yr Í ?-t yts I 4-5 yrs ¡ 6-10 yrs I lt A overl ------I------I------I------I------I------I COIISERV¡.- Donot I 14 I 10.I 7 f 20 I 9 I 60 TIVE vear I 23.3 I 1(r.7 f 11.7 I 33.3 I' 15.0 I 60.0 SÂTI SIYI,E . r 58..3 r 45.5 I 53.8 T 62.s I t00.0 r I 14.0 [ 10.0 I 7.0 r 20.0 I 9.0 r -I------I------I------I------I------r b'ear I 10 T. 12 I .6 Í 12 I 0 I q0 r 25.0 r 'ì0.0 r r5.0 r 30.0 r 0.0 r 40.0 r q1.? .r so.s I u6..2 I 37.5 I 0.0 I I 1o.o I 12.0 I 6.0 I 12.0 I 0.0 I -r------l------r------r------r------r coLrtilN 74 22 13 32 9 100 TOTÀL 2u.o 22.0 13.0 32.0 9.0 100.0

CgI SOrlÀFE = 8..25563 errE o DEGREES oF PFEEDoII sIGlíIFTcIBCE = 0.0827

cou[T . I LEIiGTH OF RESIDE¡ICE III. lBE }T5T ROf¡ PCT I POll COL PCT T , TOTÀL TOT PCT I I yr f ?-t yls r 4-5 yrs I 6-'10 ¡rsI11 & overl -T------I------f --:-----I------I------f uoDEnÂTE Donot I lr¡ I I I .5 I 7 L 3 I 3'l s^RISTYLE year r 17.8 I 21.6 I 11.5 I 18.9 I 8.r r o I 58.3 r 36.r¡ r 18.5 Í 21 ;9 î 33.I r r 14.0. T 8.0 r . 5.0 r 7.0 r 3.0 r l'' r------!r------l------I------r ------r Tea¡ I 10 I 1ll I 8I25 I 6r 63 r 15.9 r 22.2 1 12.1 r 39.7 r 9.5 r 63. 0 r rt1.? r 63¡6 r 61.5 r 78.1 r 66.? r I 10.0 I 18.0 I 8.0 r 25.0 r 6.0 r -I------T------I------T------I------I coLfrFl¡ 2U 22 13 32 9 100 101ÀL 2¿¡.0 22.0 r 3.0 32.0 9.0 100. 0 cHr sguÀRg = ?.89 397 r¡ITH tr DEGREES OF FREEDo!t SIGNIFIcÀNcE = 0.0955

COUI¡T T I,ENGIE O}' RESIDENCE IN TI]E h'EST Por Pcl I R Ot¡ COL PCT I TOTÀL TOT PCT I I yr I 2-) yrs I 4-5 yrs I 6-10 yrslll .È overl ------r------r------T------r------r------r LIBERÀL Donot 1 22 T t9 I 12 I 21 I 6 r 80 SARI BLOUSI) Hea¡ I 27.5 I 21.8 I 15.0 I 26.3 1 7.5 I 80.0 STYLE r c1.? I 86.t¡ I. 92.1 I 65.6 I 66.i r T 22.0 r 1c.0 r 12.0 T 2t.O r 6.0 r -I------I------I------I------I------I llear T 2 r 3 r 1 I 1l r 3 r 20 r 10.0 r 15.0 r 5.0 r 55.0 r 15.0 r 20.0 r s.l r 13..5 r 1.7 I 3q.q r 33.3 r r 2.0 r 3.0 r 1.0 r 11.0 r 3.0 r -I------T------r------I------I------I .. coLulll¡ 24 22 13 32 9 100. TOTÀ L 2l¡. 0 22.0 13.0 32.0 9.0 100.0 q CHI SOUIIRE = 8.96206 r.IT$ DEGREES OF.PREEDOIt 5IG¡¡IFICÀl¡CE . 0.0621 l:::.t :r-,1

L54 rabrø Jo

Chl-square Tablee Showlng Relationship B€tween Cí:lizenshlpand Clothirig Style . Ho¡n and not Ìlorn by l0t Respondente

'(¡ l

'' t . cITIZEïSHIP ROC PCT I 'ROIIRO H col PCT I Canadian non- TOTAL T0TPcTI f Canadi.anl ì'' ------I-:------I------r CoNSERVA- Do not T 22 | r)Z I 8l¡ ' TM wear f 26,2 I 73.8 I 83.2 SWII,ISUIT I 68.8 T. 89.9 I STYLE I 2't.8 I 61.4 T . -T--i-----l--r'----f l{ear .r 10 I 7 Í 11 r 58.8 r 41 .2 r 16.8 . r 31.3 r 10,1 r r 9.9 r 6.9 r f-:------I------= - r colulfN 32 69 101 TorÀL 31.? 68.3 100.0

COnRECTED CHI seutRE = 5.5301r¡ -- ¡¡ITH 1 DEGREE oF PBEEDoõ.. slcflfPIcÀf,cE = 0.0187 .: i:

COÛNT r CITIZENSSIP . RO¡l PCT I 80F . COL pCT ¡ Canailiàn non- TOTÀL TOT.pC.T I. _¡Cam

COT'FT I CITIZEBSHIP FOI' PCT I POf coL PcT r camdis.n no¡- -. ÎoÎÀL TOTpCTf ICaEadianJ ------r------r------r IIÍODERÀTELT Donot f A I 37 I q5 .LIBERAL Hear ,r 17.8 r 82.2 I qf¡.6 sg.qlh'ÂRKAtfIz I 25.0 I .53.5 f STYLE I 7.9 I 36.5 I : - r------: r------r llea¡ I 20 I j2. I 56 I f¡2.9 I 57.1 T 55.4 . r 75.0 r 46.{¡ r I 23.9 r 31.7 r ..._._ -r------r------r. COLrthN 32 r'9 101 loTrl 31.7 68.3 100.0

CORRECTED CHI SODÀRE = 6.13?91 efTH I DE-GFEE OF FREEDott SrGNtprCÀt¡CE r 0.0132

. conNî f CITIZENSHIP ROH PCT I þOH COt. pCT. ¡ Camdlan non-. TOTÀL . TOT pCT I J Ca_nadlan I --r------I------r 'SHI¡.ÍSUITS ltear i ro r s r t9 I 52.6 I 47.6 r 18.9 ' r 31.3 I 13.0 I r 9.c I 8.9 r .. -r------r------t Donot T 22 I (r0 I S2 rear | 26.8 f 1:t.2 I 81.2 r 68.8 r 8?.0 1 I 21.8 r 5C.4 T . -r------I------r .. colr¡iN 32 69 101 lolrl. 3r.? 68,3 100. ---_ CORRECÎED CNI SONIRE = ].62?08 BITH 1 DEGÂEE OF FFEtsDOñ SÎGI¡IFTCTIICE ¡ 0.0568 155 Table JO (contlnued)

eooÍT ¡ cIrIzEr{sEIP ROÍI PCT I ROI ccl- PcT f Camdlan non- loTtl TOT PCT f. I CanadÍan f ----I------r------r CONSERVA- Do not I 2tl I 11 I 6 1 ÎM eoar I 39.3 I 60,7 I 60'4 SÂRISTYLE I ,75.0 I 53.6 I I 23.8 T. 1(,.r, r -r------i------Ï -tlear I ß I 32 f 40 - r 20.0 r 80.0 r 39.6 ' r 25.0 r 46.q r r 7.9 r 31.? r -r ------r ------r coltr¡tH 32 69 101 --TOTAL 31.7 68.3,..100.0 COnRECTED cHr SOUARE - 3.33064 ¡rrTH 1 DEGBEE OP PBEEDOË SIGHTPICA$CE = 0.06S0 'Table Jr 156 Chi-oquare Tables Showing Relatlonshtp Between PLace of Besfdence ln Paklgtan and Clothfn6 style l{o¡n and not llorn by 10O Respondenta

CTìUHT I PL.ACE OF RESIDENCE IN PAKISTAN ROg.PCT I ROI¡ cOL PcT I mêtro- cLtles. - touûa--.- - TOÎÀL TOTPCTfpolitanI f f ------I------I--i-----r------I SLEEPI'IEÂR Wear I 6u I 2'l I 5 I' 90 T 71.1 r 21.'t r 5.6 r 90.0 I 97.0 .I 80.8 T ('2.5 L j.r::: ...::.. .: r 6¡¡.0 r 21.0 r. 5.0.-I ¡ -iì i i -I------I------I------I ' '' : . Donot f 2 I 5 I 3 I 'l 0 ïear I 20.0 I 50.0 I 30.0 I 10.0 r 3.0 r 19.2 r 3?.5 r T 2.0 r 5.0 r 3.0 r - -r------I------r------r coln¡fN 66 26 I 100 rolÀL 66.0 26.0 8.0 100.0 t, cflI s0uÀRE = 12.?t¡605 ÍITR 2 DEGRBES OP PREEDO¡í SIGUIFTCIXCE = O.OOI? ., ,'.' .:,'

COIJIIT I PI,ACE OT' R.ESIDENCE IN PÂKISTÁ}¡ PO¡r PCT I 8C¡l i:....:...'-.:|.. COL PCT I netro- clties torr¡s lOTÀt ::....,...... ; ::::.:: .-:. TOTPcTrpolltanl I I..- ":''. -r------r------r------I SARISllearI64I2lI5T92 r 69.6 r 25.0 r 5.4 f 92.0 . r 97.0 r 88.5 r 62.5 r r 6tl .0 I 21.0 I 5.0 r '-r------I------I------I -. Donot r 2 r 3 I I I b i vear I 25.0 I 37.5 I 3?.5 I 8..0 l r 3.0 i 11.5 r 3?.5 r i r. 2.0 r 3.0 r 3.0 r i r------r------r------r . coLr¡íN 66 23 I 100 ÎoTAL 66..0 26 ..0 8. O 1oO. O j cIlH DEGBEES OF SIGTiIFICÀtlcB 0.0023 CßI SOuARE = 12.11630 2 PREsD3i = i .I coTINT PLACE OF RESIDENCE I¡T PAXISTÀN Rotl Pcr r cóL PcT f 6etro- cities toïns TOTÀL'ot' TOTPClrPolitsûr I I ------r------r------I------r StiRI h'ear f 6q T 2t I 5 I 92 BLOUSES r'69.6 r 25.0 r 5.q f 92.O r '97.0 r 88.5 r 62.5 r I 64..0 I 23.0 r 5.0 I L-...... ;r------r------I------I . ' -t :.;-.: Donot T 2 I I f 3 I. 8 ilear I 25.0 I 3?.5 I 37.5 I 8.0 ' r 3.0 r 11.5 r 37.5 r r 2.0 r 1.0 r 3.0 r -1------r------r------r cololl{ 66 26 I 100 ÎoTAL 66.0 26.0 8.0 100.0 .OP cHI SOUARE = 12,11630 !¡ITE 2 DEGREES PREEæñ SIGI¡IFrCÀNCE - 0.0023

COiTIT I PLJ\CÐ OF R¡ìSIDENCE IN PAKISTÂN FOII PCT I BOT col PcT I metro- cltles torns lOfÀL TOTPCTIPoÌítünI I I ------I------l------f --:-----f ITODERATE Donot I 32 I 17 I ? r" 56 BIOUSE' ïear I 57.1 I lî.t¡ I 12.5 I 56.0 STTLE J r¡4.ç I 65.0 r 87.5 r r 32.0 r 1?.0 I ?.0 r -I ------r------1------I ' t{ear I 1t¡ I a T 1 I qq . Ì 't?.3 | 2C.5 r 2.3 r '4'1.0 . I 51.5 r 34.6 T 12.5 r r 3r¡.0 r 9.0 r 1.0 r r------r ------r------r Colrrtr¡ 66 26 I 100 ÎOTÀL . 6(¡ .0 26.0 8. 0 100. 0 CHI sO0ÀPE = 5.ß63?0 !¡ITH 2 DEGS9ES eP FREEDCI{ SIGNIPICÀFCE ' 0.0589 L57 Tablo ,l (contlnued)

COUNT. I PIIICE OF R¡SIDENCE IN PÁKISTAI.I ROg PCT I pCT 8Ot COI I netro- citlea towns TOTAL TOTpCT¡politanI I I ------I------I------I----____ I ¡'IODER.ATELY Donot I 30 I 11 I 6 I 53 IJIBERÂL Pear f.56.6 I lZ.1 I 1I.3 I .53.0 S'.RI BLOUSE . T ¿t5.5 r 65.4 t 7i.o r SlITE I ,,ì,', 30.0 I 17.0 I 6.0 I '::. -r------r------r------_r ":.;: l{ear f 36 I 9 T. 2 I 47 T. 76,6 I 19.1 I q.3 I q7.O , r 54.5 r 34.6.I 25.O I. I 36.0 r 9.0 r 2.0 r -r------i------I------r coLUüN 66 26 I 100 TOr.ÀL 66.0 26.0 8.0 100.0 CFI SgolEE 4.663?8 sITil = 2 DEGREES op FnEEDoü SIGNIPICÀüCE = O.O9?l