© Lonely Planet 351 Index

A 304-5 ATMs 319 , Volcán 96 226 Autosafari Chapín 199 accommodations 311-12, see also Ceibal 302-4, 303 individual locations Chuitinamit 132 B farmstays 194 Copán Site () 239-45, 243 Balneario Cecilinda 220 useful phrases 340 305 Balneario Chulamar 199 activities 312-13, see also individual El Baul Hilltop Site 196-7 Balneario Las Islas 220 activities 295 Balneario Likín 199 Acul 156 308-10 banana export 237 agrotourism 194 El Perú (Waká) 306 bargaining 320 Agua Caliente 251-2 309 Barrios, Justo Rufino 29 Agua, Volcán 96, 111-12 307-8 bathrooms 322 Aguateca 304-5 Ixcún 272 beaches 18 air travel 325-7 Iximché 117 Champerico 193-4 air fares 325-7 Ixlú 295 Chiquistepeque 195 airlines 325 K’umarcaaj 149-51 Monterrico 201 airports 325 Los Sapos 247 Pacific Slope 195 to/from 325-7 Machaquilá 295 Playa Blanca 263

within Guatemala 328 211 Playa El Chechenal 282 INDEX Aldea Chajaneb 220 Monte Alto (La Democracia) 198 Playa Quehueche 263 169-70 271 Sipacate 198-9 ambulance services, see inside front Nakbé 309 Tilapita 187, 189 cover 300 Tulate 194-5 animal bites 337 Parque Arqueológico Kaminaljuyú 71 beauty ideals, Maya 28 animal sanctuaries, see zoos & animal Parque Arqueológico Bethancourt, Hermano Pedro de San sanctuaries 192-3 José de 94, 95 animals 56-7, see also individual animals Quiriguá 236-8, 236 bicycling 312, 328 Antigua 86-113, 88-9, 5 Río Azul 308 Antigua 97 accommodations 100-4 295 around Antigua 112 activities 96-7 Sayaxché 301-2 Panajachel 122 courses 98-9 Tayazal 282 Quetzaltenango 162 drinking 107-8 287-95, 290-1, 6 Bilbao Stones 197 entertainment 108-9 Topoxté 298 biosphere reserves, see also biotopes, festivals 100 Tuj K’man Txun 181 national parks & protected areas, food 104-7 Uaxactún 295-8, 297 parks & gardens history 87 Wajxaklajunh 183-4 Reserva de Biosfera Maya 61, 307 itineraries 93 Wakná 309 Reserva de Biosfera Sierra de las safety 92 Xulnal 309 Minas 256-7 shopping 109 Yaxhá 298-300, 299 biotopes, see also biosphere reserves, sights 92-6 176-7 national parks & protected areas, tourist information 92 architecture 45-7 parks & gardens tours 99-100 area codes, see inside front cover Biotopo Cerro Cahuí 284 travel to/from 109-10 Arévalo, Juan José 30 Biotopo del Quetzal 211-13 travel within 109-10 art galleries, see museums & galleries Biotopo Monterrico-Hawaii 201 walking tours 97-8, 97 arts 44-8, see also individual arts birds 56-7, 212 Antiguo Colegio de la Compañía de Asociación de Guías de Ecoturismo bird-watching 313 Jesús 96 Rupalaj K’istalin 138 Biotopo Monterrico-Hawaii 201 Arbenz, Colonel Jacobo 30, 237 Asociación de Rescate y Conservación Copán Ruinas 247 archaeological sites 228 de Vida Silvestre 282-3 El Remate 284 INDEX car travel327,329-30 boat travel328, business hours313 bushwalking, bus travel330 breakbone fever 334 border crossings327-9 canopy tours, Cancuén 226 camping 312 26-7,285 calendar, Maya shops53 cake Cakchiquel people, cafeterías cafés C books 14,15, bird-watching 352 000 000 driver’s licenses 327 driver’s Tikal 294 deBiosfera Sierradelas Reserva BocasdelPolochic256 Refugio Punta 260-1 deManabique MountainBirdParkMacaw 246 Finca ElCisne251 Estación BiológicaLas Melchor de Mencos 301 deMencos Melchor La Técnica301 La Palma 301 Frontera Corozal301 Entre Ríos263 El Salvador205 239 El Florido El Ceibo301 Bethel 301 301 delasAméricas Benemérito Anguiatú 232 wildlife 57 47 textiles Maya people43 Maya history 21,23,29,30 health 333 food 50,51 environment 56 birds 57,58 46 art 46 architecture people 52

Map pages Map Photograph pages Minas 256 Minas Guacamayas 306 INDEX (B-C) INDEX 52 see see also see continued see also ziplining hiking see literature Kaqchiquel Kaqchiquel kayaking Chichicastenango 143-9, Chiantla 179 Chiabal 180 Chancol 179-80 193-4 Champerico Chajul 156 206 chairlifts Chagas disease336 Cerro Alux112 47 ceramics, pre-Columbian Centro Turístico delasMinas Cueva Centro Interculturalde Centro deFormaciónla 70 Centro CulturalMetropolitano 110-11 Centro CulturalLaAzotea Centro Cívico71 Central Guatemala207-67, 96 General Cementerio cell phones321-2 Ceibal 302-4, caves, cathedrals, Casa delaCulturaTotonicapense172 28-9 Carrera, Rafael Coast252-67 Caribbean churches &cathedrals, 40-1 Christianity cholera 334 Chisec 223 Chiquistepeque 195 Chiquimulilla 204-5 Chiquimula 228-30, children, travelwith313-14 buses330 chicken 233-4 Quetzaltenango 161 Cooperación Española96 K’anba Caves222 220-1 Marcos Grutas Rey Grutas deLanquín221 283 Grutas Actun-Can 225-6 deCandelaria Cuevas deB’ombi’lPekCuevas 223-4 233-4 delasMinas Cueva 225-6 Comunidad Candelaria safety 130 rental 330 insurance 327 Catedral de Santiago 93 145-6 Capilla delCalvario Basilica (Esquipulas)233 temples useful phrases344 health 338 Guatemala City73 see also see 303 spelunking churches&cathedrals 229 seealso 144 209 ,

6 counting system, Maya 24 counting system, Maya costs 12-13, Copán Site(Honduras)239-45, Copán Ruinas(Honduras) 245-51, Copán (Honduras)238-52, consulates 317-18 61 conservation comedores Colom, Álvaro34 94-5 Colegio deSanJerónimo Women Cojolya AssociationofMaya cofradías coffee farms coffee 320 Cobán 213-20, Coatepeque 189 climbing, climate 12,314 Ciudad Vieja111-12 Ciudad Tecún Umán187 46 cities, Maya 246 Weavers 131 ElPatrocinio 194 Reserva Alianza193 Nueva 216 Finca SantaMargarita Finca SantaElena194 Finca SanLorenzo 210 Finca LosNietos111 Finca ElCisne251 Chicoj cooperative216 tours 312 fair trade218 cultivation 217,218 Parroquia deSanLucas 129 Cathedral160 Metropolitan Iglesia yConventodeSanto Iglesia yConventodeSanta Iglesia yConventodeNuestra Iglesia yConventodeLa Iglesia Parroquial SantiagoApóstol Santo160 Iglesia delEspíritu Iglesia deSantoTomás145 Iglesia deSanPedro 170 Iglesia deSanJacinto171 Iglesia deSanFrancisco94 Iglesia deNebaj153 Ermita deSantoDomingo 70 Catedral Metropolitana Domingo 95 Clara 95 94 deLaMerced Señora 94 Recolección 130-1 Guzmán 215 148 see 52 see hiking 214

also insidefront cover 239 243 INDEX 353

8

, volcanoes 66-7 115 see also INDEX (C-H) Bosque 130 accommodations 74-6 accommodations drinking 79 entertainment 80-1 food 76-9 history 64 65, 68 safety shopping 81 sights 69-73 tourist information 65 tours 73-4 travel to/from 84-5 travel within 81-4 books 333 insurance 332 332 internet resources medical services 334 traditional medicine 338 useful phrases 341 vaccinations 333 Bethancourt 94, 95 Quetzaltenango 161-2 Salto de Chaliscó 211 San Marcos La Laguna 140 La Laguna 135 San Pedro Santiago Atitlán 131-2 Sendero Ecológico El Aprisco 172-3 Sendero Natural 241 Todos Santos Cuchumatán 181 Volcán Cruz Quemada 205 Volcán de Quetzaltepeque 232 El Remate 284 El Cisne 251 Finca Ixobel 271 Finca Laguna Chicabal 175 Los Sapos (Copán Ruinas) 247 Nebaj 153-5 122 Panajachel Ecológico Corazón del Parque H health 332-8 hepatitis 334-5 San José de de Hermano Pedro hieroglyphics & writing, Maya 45 Highlands 114-85, hiking 96, 312, gay travelers 80, 318 gay travelers 56 geography geology 56 Gracias a Dios 184 Grutas Actun-Can 283 221 Grutas de Lanquín Grutas Rey Marcos 220-1 63-85, Guatemala City 59 inside front cover

233 inside front cover

see 276 see museums & galleries festivals see see Antigua 100 Chichicastenango 147 Cristo de Esquipulas 233, 234 254 de San Felipe Feria Huehuetenango 177 Momostenango 174 Nebaj 155 123 Panajachel Quetzaltenango 163 Supango 113 Totonicapán 173 books 50, 51 53 internet resources useful phrases 54-5 vegetarian & vegan travelers 53-4 wildlife 56-7 wildlife useful phrases 341 books 56 organizations 61-2 parks & protected 58, 60, areas 306 photographing people 320 G galleries, Gálvez, Mariano 28 Garífuna people 261, 267 F fer-de-lance 57 14, 318 festivals fishing 200, 261 272-82, Flores flying pole ritual 211 food 49-55, 318 Fray Bartolomé de Las Casas 226 Georginas 171 Fuentes environmental issues 58-9, 61, 133 environmental issues 58-9, 61, Escuintla 199 Esquipulas 232-6, environment 56-62 Estación Biológica Las Guacamayas Estación Científica Selempim 256 Estadio Nacional Mateo 71 Flores Estanzuela 228 ManuelEstrada Cabrera, 29 etiquette 44 Evangelicalism 41 events, exchange rates, El Remate 284-7 El Zotz 307-8 electricity 312 embassies 317-18 emergencies, 209 37 language language 269 see also bicycling car travel see see hitchhiking 330 Santa Cruz La Laguna 142 courses cooking 99 dance 163 315 weaving 135, 163, earthquakes 62 Eastern Guatemala 207-67, E economy 38 Edificio Rivera 160 education 42 El Baul hilltop site 196-7 El Boquerón 255 El Carmen 187 254-5 El Castillo de San Felipe El Chal 295 El Cristo Negro 234 El Estor 255-6 El Hato 111 El Mirador 308-10 El Oriente 227-38 Viejo 171 El Palmar (Waká) 306 El Perú 268-310, El Petén DVDs 312 de León, Ramirode León, 33 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 333 58 deforestation 334 dengue fever departmental boundaries departure tax 327 diarrhea 337 disabilities, travelers with 322 diving 271-2 Dolores 305 Dos Pilas drinks 50-2 driver’s licenses 327 driving, dangers 316-17 D courses 314-16, courses crossed eyes 28 157 Cuatro Caminos Cubulco 211 Cueva de las Minas 233-4 223-4 Cuevas de B’ombi’l Pek Cuevas de Candelaria 225-6 Cuilapa 205 36-48 culture 316 customs regulations cycling, INDEX internet resources 15 internet access319 insurance Iglesia yConventodeSantoDomingo Iglesia yConventodeSantaClara95 Iglesia yConventodeNuestraSeñora Iglesia yConventodeLa Iglesia deSantoTomás145 Iglesia deSanFrancisco94 I 62 hurricanes Huehuetenango 175-9, 312 horseback riding homestays 194,312 holidays 12,318 330 hitchhiking history 21-35 histoplasmosis 336 354 000 000 air tickets 327 air tickets vehicle 327 travel 318-19 health 332 95 94 de LaMerced 94 Recolección Santiago Atitlán132 Salto deChaliscó211 Parque EcológicoHunNalYe 223 Finca Ixobel271 Finca ElCisne251 Establo LaRonda110-11 284 El Remate Copán Ruinas247 Chancol 179-80 Antigua 97 Spanish conquest24-5 21-2 Preclassic period 24 Postclassic period Peace Accords33 Liberals &Carrera 28-9 29 Liberal reform ofBarrios Jorge Ubico29 internet resources 34,35 Independence 26-8 Guatemala today34-5 29 Estrada Cabrera &Minerva 23-4 Classic period civil war30-3 Arévalo &Arbenz30 21 Archaic period

Map pages Map Photograph pages INDEX (H-M) INDEX 176 Iztapa 199-201 Ixlú 295 Iximché 117-18 16-20 itineraries K’umarcaaj 149-51 K’iche’ people117,150,344-5 people, Kekchí kayaking people117 Kaqchiquel K’anba Caves222 K juego depelota Jocotenango 110-11 jet lag333-4 Jalapa 231 Jaibalito 141 109,320 J language 339-45 223 Lagunas deSepalau Laguna Petexbatún 304-5 Laguna Petenchel 283 180 Laguna Magdalena Laguna Chicabal175 Laguna Brava184-5 Lago dePetén Itza Lago deIzabal252-7 Lago deAtitlán116-43, Lago deAmatitlán205-6 185 La Mesilla La Democracia198 L Antigua 93 47 textiles music 45 48 textiles Maya people25 Maya language 39 history 34,35 health 332 food 53 ceramics 47 internet resources 39 Santa CruzLaLaguna142 San Pedro LaLaguna135 Parque EcológicoHunNalYe 223 Panajachel 122 Lanquín 221 indigenous languages38-40, food glossary54-5 environmental issues133 344-5, 39 23 see Q’eqchi’ people 272 117 Los Vahos 169 Los Vahos Los Huistas184 Los Baños170 Los Arcos210 lookouts Lívingston 261-6, literature 44, lesbian travelers318 leptospirosis 336-7 leishmaniasis 336 legal matters319 leather goods320 Las Pirámides Center139 Meditation Las Conchas226-7 Las Capuchinas94 Lanquín 221-2 language courses314-15 markets, 257 Mariscos maps 319 70 enRelieve Mapa manatees 257 people175,176-7,180,345 Mam 335 malaria maize 49 magazines 312 295 Machaquilá 287 Macanché M Mirador El Cuartel 245-6 ElCuartel Mirador JuanDiéguezOlaverri El Mirador Canek282 delRey El Mirador Todos SantosCuchumatán181-2 Santa Elena276 San Pedro LaLaguna135-6 San JuanLaLaguna139 San José283 San Andrés283 Quetzaltenango 162-3 Panajachel 122 Nebaj 155 202 Monterrico Huehuetenango 177 Flores 276 Copán Ruinas247 Cobán 215 Antigua 98-9 Aj ChiChoLanguageCenter220 Chichicastenango 145, Mercado de Artesanías (Guatemala deArtesanías Mercado Central(Guatemala Mercado 179 City) 72 City) 70 seealso see also shopping 262 books 6 INDEX , 355

188 120-1 biosphere reserves biosphere 154 211 INDEX (M-P) see also , 59 de Manabique 261 183 Candelaria 225-6 224 Azul 308 Generales 93 accommodations 123-5 activities 122 courses 122 Cerro Cruz Maltín protected area Hawaii 202 Parque Cuevas Nacional de Parque Laguna Lachuá Nacional Parque Nacional Las VictoriasParque 215 Nacional Mirador–Río Parque Nacional Río Dulce 264 Parque 289 Nacional Tikal Parque Refugio Bocas del Polochic 256-7 Reserva Natural Atitlán 121-2 Reserva Natural El Manchón 189 60, biotopes, parks & gardens de Protección Especial Punta Área Museo 274 Santa Bárbara Museo Morley 294 Sylvanus G 134 ‘Ya Museo Tz’unun Quiriguá site 237 archaeological Railway Museum 70 San Jerónimo Museum 210 Garífuna people 267 Palacio de Justicia 71 Palacio de los Capitanes Palacio del Ayunatamiento 93 Palacio Nacional de la Cultura 69-70 Palacio paleontology 228 palo volador O 134 oil painting, Tz’utujil onchocerciasis 337 orchids 57, 215 P Slope 186-206, Pacific 118-28, Panajachel Nebaj 153-6, Nentón 184 newspapers 40, 312 nightspots 52 N 271 Naj Tunich Nakum 300 national parks & protected 58- areas music 45 Achi’ 210 191 Vidrio Moderno 95 de Sacatepéquez 95 Populares Arqueología y Geología Ingeniero Roberto Woolfolk Sarvia 228 161 262-3 Etnología 72 Moderno 72 Jorge Ibarra 72-3 271-2 Petén La Galería 120-1 Memorias Fragiles 245 Museo 95 Arqueológico Museo Regional Arqueológico 146 Museo 181 Balam Museo 95 Colonial Museo Communitario Rabinal Museo Cotzumalguapa 197 Cultura Museo de Arqueología Maya 245 Museo de Arqueología y Etnología Museo de Arte 161 Museo de Arte Colonial 93 Museo de Arte y Precolombino Museo de Artes y Artesanías Museo de Escultura 241, 244-5 Museo de Historia 72, 160 Natural 96 Museo de la Farmacia Museo de los Niños 72 Museo 70, 71 de Músicos Invisibles Museo de Paleontología, Museo de Santiago 93 de los Altos Museo del Ferrocarril 94 Museo del Hermano Pedro Museo del Libro Antiguo 93 Museo El Baúl 197 Museo El Príncipe Maya 215 Museo Ixchel 71 Museo Ixkik’ 161 Museo Katinamit 220 Museo Atitlán 120 Lacustre Museo Lítico 293 Museo Maya Ixil 156 134 Museo Maya Tz’utujil Museo Miraflores 72 Museo Multicultural de Lívingston Museo Nacional de Arqueología y Museo Nacional de Arte Museo Nacional de Historia 70 Museo Nacional de Historia Natural Museo Popol Vuh 72 Museo Regional de Arqueología 198 Museo Regional de del Sureste 7 inside

, 6 inside front inside front

39 7 see see also 7 23 211 see also 22, 145 architecture 45-6 ball games 23 beauty 28 books 43 calendar 26-7, 285 cities 46 counting system 24 hieroglyphics & writing 45 25 internet resources juego de pelota languages 344-5, maize 49 palo volador Popol Vuh 23 recreation 41-3 religion textiles 48, 320-1 138, traditional dress weaving 47-8, Salamá 208 Salamá El Alto 173 San Francisco Sololá 118 City) 72 cover cover driver’s licenses 327 insurance 327 330 rental 130 safety Casa K’inich 246 70 Casa MIMA 296 Colección Dr Juan Antonio Valdez front cover Mazatenango 194 312, measures Maximón 146 Maya people masks, wooden 321, masks, wooden metric conversions, medical services 334 Melchor de Mencos 300-1 RigobertaMenchú Tum, 32 Mercado Central (Guatemala City) 70 Mercado de Artesanías (Guatemala minibuses 331 Mixco Viejo 211 mobile phones 321-2 Momostenango 173-4 money 12-13, 319, museums & galleries Monterrico 201-4 Morazán, Francisco 28 mosquito bites 337-8 motion sickness 333-4 motorcycle travel 327, 329-30 INDEX plants 57 planning 12-15, Piedras Negras306-7 photography 320 phone cards321 Pastores 112 pastelerías 322-3 passports Pasos yPedales 72 Paseo 95 deLosMuseos Pascual Abaj146 parks &gardens, paragliding 122,313 Panajachel 356 000 000 Vivero Verapaz 215 Parque NaturalIxpanpajul 284 Parque NaturalGuayaja 221 Parque NaturalCanopyCalderas Parque EcoturísticoCascadasde Parque EcológicoHunNalYe 223 Parque EcológicoCorazóndel Parque dePaz 131 Parque deDiversionesXetulul192 Parque Chatún234 Parque 158,160 CentroÁmerica Parque Central(SantiagoAtitlán) Parque Central(Huehuetenango) Parque Central(GuatemalaCity) Parque Central(Antigua)92-4 Parque ArqueológicoTakalik Abaj Parque ArqueológicoKaminaljuyú Parque AcuáticoXocomil192 areas & protected biotopes,nationalparks reserves, travel to/from127-8 tours 122-3 information119 tourist sights 120-2 shopping 127 food 125-6 festivals 123 127 entertainment 127 drinking

Map pages Map Photograph pages 73 Tatasirire 231 Bosque 130 131 176 69-70 192-3 71 INDEX (P-S)INDEX 53 continued see also see also itineraries biosphere Punta 260 deManabique SanJosé199 Puerto 257-60, Barrios Puerto areas, protected pregnant travelers338 320 postal services Alfonso33 Portillo, population 38-40 Poptún 270-1 Popol Vuh Playa Grande224-5 Quiriguá 236-8, Quiriguá Quiché people, Quiché 143-56 Quetzaltenango 157-69, quetzals 56,212 Q’eqchi’ people261 Q Rosenberg, Rodrigo 34-5 Rosenberg, Rodrigo robbery 316-17 blindness337 river 31,33-4 Ríos Montt,Efraín Río Hondo227-8 Río Dulce252-4, 308 Río Azul 190-1, Retalhuleu restaurants 52-3 restaurantes religion 40-3 BocasdelPolochic 256-7 Refugio 225 Raxruhá rafting 210 Rabinal rabies 335 R protected areas protected volunteer work168 travel within169 travel to/from167-9 tours 163 information158 tourist sights 158,160-1 shopping 167 food 165-6 festivals 163 167 entertainment 166-7 drinking courses 162-3 161-2 activities accommodations 163-5 Mormonism 288 Lanquín 221 Finca ElCisne251 22,145 52 see 236 see 7 190 K’iche’people nationalparks& 259 159 , 160 Semuc Champey222-3, Semuc scuba diving223 scams 317 Sayaxché 301-2 Santiago Sacatepéquez112-13 Santiago Atitlán130-3 deCopán251 Santa Rita Ixhuatán205 Santa María 112 deJesús Santa María Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa195-8, Santa Eulalia183 Santa Elena272-82, Santa CruzLaLaguna141-3 Santa CruzdelQuiché149-51 PalopóSanta Catarina 128-9 San Pedro LaLaguna133-8 Chicaj210 282 San Miguel 183-4 Ixtatán San Mateo Sacatepéquez175 San Martín LaLaguna139-41 San Marcos San Lucas Tolimán129-30 San Lorenzo ElTejar 112 San JuanLaLaguna138-9 San JuanIxcoy182-3 San JuandelObispo112 San JuanComalapa112 San JuanChamelco220 San José283-4 210 San Jerónimo San FranciscoElAlto173 San Felipe 112 VerapazSan Cristóbal 220 295 San Bartolo San AntonioPalopó 129 San AntonioAguas Calientes111 San AndrésXecul172 San Andrés283 Salto deChaliscó211 Salcajá 171-2 Salamá 208,210-11 safety 316-17 Sacapulas 151-2 S shopping 320-1, Jorge 31-3 Serrano, snake bites338 snake Sipacate 198-9 water 338 motorcycle travel130 Lívingston 261-2 Guatemala City65,68 car travel130 bus travel329 Antigua 92 see also 274 8 markets 196 INDEX 357

textiles diving, kayak- inside front cover

97 see also see also , theme parks & water 299 7 see also INDEX (S-Y) internet resources see hiking see see ing, rafting, scuba diving, surfing El Rubi 251 Lomo de Macho 211 263 Los Siete Altares 183 Pepajaú Salto de Chaliscó 211 parks Antigua 97-8, Fuego 96 Fuego 96 134-5 San Pedro Santa María 161-2 Santiaguito 161-2 161 Tajumulco Tolimán 131 96 volcano ascents Antigua 96-7 El Remate 284 & Santa Elena 274 Flores Nebaj 155 Quetzaltenango 168 Santa Cruz La Laguna 142 Biotopo Motnerrico-Hawaii 201 El Remate 284 Refugio Bocas del Polochic 256 health 338 waterfalls weather 12, 314 weaving 47-8, water safety 338 water safety water sports 313, Xocomil 142 73 X-Park Y 184-5 Yalambojoch 298-300, Yaxhá 336 yellow fever X W walking, walking tours water parks, weights 312, volunteering 323 Vuelo Extremo 192 whale watching 202 56-7 wildlife wildlife-watching 313 women in Guatemala 43-4 women travelers 323-4 work 324 websites, 297 6 hiking see Mejía 31 Acatenango 96 96, 111-12 Agua Cerro la Miraflores 205 Cerro la Soledad 205 Blanca 205 Cerro Peña Chicabal 175 Cruz Quemada 205 de Ipala 230-1 de Quetzaltepeque 232 Antigua 99-100 Antigua Cobán 216 Copán Ruinas 247 El Remate 285 275-6 Flores 73-4 Guatemala City Lívingston 263-4 122-3 Panajachel 163 Quetzaltenango Río Dulce 253, 264 Santa Elena 275-6 Santiago Atitlán 132 Uaxactún 296-7 useful phrases 343-4 Tortugario Monterrico 201-2, 203 Tortugario 189 Tilapita V vacations 12, 318 vaccinations 333 Experimental Station 111-12 Valhalla Dorado 227 Valle vegetarian & vegan travelers 53-4 Victores, General Oscar Humberto video systems 312 visas 322-3 215 Vivero Verapaz volcanoes 62, U Uaxactún 295-8, Ubico, Jorge 29 United Fruit Company 237, 257-8 Universidad de San Carlos 93-4 Uspantán 152-3 transportation 325-31 travel to/from Guatemala 325-8 travel within Guatemala 328-31 trekking, 194-5 Tulate turtles TV 312 typhoid 335-6 typhus 337 oil painting 134 Tz’utujil see also caves 6 7 spas &

, see churches & see also fishing walking tours 290-1 see see also Women Weavers 131 see also GreenDex swimming pools Luna Jaguar Spa ResortLuna 251-2 Retalhuleu 191 La Laguna 135 San Pedro Parque Acuático Xocomil 192 Parque de Diversiones Xetulul 192 Parque Dorado 227 Valle Cojolya Association of Maya 220 Cooperativa de Tejadores 47 internet resources Salcajá 171 Calientes 111 San Antonio Aguas weaving cooperatives 150 weaving courses 135, 163, 315 cathedrals Abesta 158 Templo de Minerva 161 Templo el Calvario 215 Templo Tilapita 187, 189 Tilapita time 322 tipping 319 Todos Santos Cuchumatán 180-2 toilets 322 del ReformadorTorre 71 Tortugario Monterrico 201-2, 203 Tortugario 189 Tilapita Totonicapán 172-3 tourist information 322 tours, swimming pools, T Abaj 192-3 Takalik May WajshakibTakiliben Batz 174 taxis 330-1 282 Tayazal 205 telephone services 321-2 temples, sports 40 Sumpango 112-13 surfing 198-9 sustainable travel 13, 15, 47, sportfishing, spelunking 313, solo travelers 321 solo travelers Sololá 118 Soloma 183 pools spas & swimming Tikal 287-95, Tikal theft 316-17 theme parks & water parks textiles 47-8, 320-1, INDEX accommodations GREENDEX zip lining313 Zaculeu 176-7 Zacapa 228 Z 358 Environmental regionalsupport identityandculture. tion, andmanyare ownedandoperated bylocalandindigenousoperators,thereby helping to policy.Someare orenvironmentaleduca- an active involved sustainable-tourism inconservation are really ecofriendlyandwhichare simplyjumpingonthesustainablebandwagon? everyone’sIt seemslike goinggreen andecothesedays,buthowcanyouknowwhichbusinesses .lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel. .com/feedback. Formore informationaboutsustainabletourismandLonelyPlanet,seewww who shouldbelisted here, orifyoudisagree usatwww.lonelyplanet withourchoices,contact content. developing Ifyouthinkwe’veWe wanttokeep oursustainable-tourism omitted someone Economic understanding betweentravelers andhosts. Socio-cultural contributions. Gringo PerdidoGringo EcologicalInn(El Fundary Ecolodge(Punta de Finca Tatin (around Lívingston) Finca Ixobel(aroundPoptún)271 Finca Chipantún(LagunaLachuá) (Lanquín)221 El Retiro Lodge(ElHato) 111 Earth (AldeaChaneab) 220 Don Jerónimo’s Complejo CulturaldeCandelaria Chiminos IslandLodge(Laguna Campamento EcológicoElSombrero Arca deNoé(SantaCruzLa LaLaguna) (SanMarcos Aaculaax Parque EcológicoHunNalYe 223 Copán Ruinas247

We definesustainabletourisminthree ways: The followinglistingshave allbeenselected bythisbook’sauthorsbecausetheydemonstrate Remate) 286 Remate) 261 Manabique) 266 224 225 Candelaria) (Parque de NacionalCuevas Petexbatún) 305 298 (Yaxhá) Laguna) 142 140 GREENDEX –hasfinancialbenefitsforthehostcommunityandoperates ontheprinciplesoffairtrade. –respects culture andtraditionsfosters authenticinteraction andgreater

– minimizes negative and,where environmentalimpacts positive possible,makes zoos &animalsanctuaries Lagunita Creek Ecolodge(Around La CasadeDonDavid(El Remate) (around Isleta deGaia Hotelito Perdido (around Tzul Ram Hotel Restaurant (RíoDulce)253 Hotel Kangaroo Hotel IslaVerde (SantaCruzLa Hotel EcológicoVilladelos Hotel Ecológico(ElEstor)256 Hotel Catamaran(RíoDulce)253 Hotel Bambú(SantiagoAtitlán) (RíoDulce)253 Hotel Backpacker’s Hotel Ajau(GuatemalaCity)74 Hacienda Tijax (RíoDulce)253 Hacienda SanLucas (Copán Enchanted Wings Butterfly House Enchanted WingsButterfly Chapín199 Autosafari 192 Vuelo Extremo Tikal 294 Lívingston) 267 286 204 Monterrico) Lívingston) 266 (Biotopo delQuetzal)212 Laguna) 143 Castellanos (Poptún)270 132 Ruinas) 249 247 entertainment eating Zunil 170-1 Takalik Lodge(Parque Maya Posada RuralFinca Chaculá Posada MontañadelQuetzal Posada LosEncuentros Posada ElDelfín(Lívingston)265 Posada deSantiago(Santiago Parque EcológicoGucumatz Oasis Chiyú(LasConchas)227 Café-Bar Ubafu (Lívingston)266 Koba’n(Cobán)218 Xkape BugaMama Restaurante D’Noz (SanPedro LaLaguna)137 (Flores) 280 Capitán Tortuga Tortugario Tilapita 189 Tortugario 201-2,203 Monterrico Tortugario 161 Parque ZoológicoMinerva MountainBirdParkMacaw 246 La AuroraZoo72 Arqueológico Takalik Abaj)193 (around Nentón)184 (Biotopo delQuetzal)212 (Panajachel) 125 Atitlán) 132 (Biotopo delQuetzal)212 (Lívingston) 266 INDEX 359

GREENDEX Pokomchi (around Cobán) 220 Pokomchi (around Tourism Project (around 224 Laguna Lachuá) Rupalaj K’istalin (San Juan La Laguna) 138 217 Nacional Cuevas de Candelaria) 225 Marcos La Laguna) 140 Cuchumatán) 181 ADETES (Lanquín) 221 Centro Communitario Educativo (Cobán) 216 Chicoj Cooperative (Antigua) 97 Niños de Guatemala Rocjá Pomtilá Community Asociación de Guías de Ecoturismo Base Camp Tours (Copán Ruinas) Comunidad Mucbilha’ (Parque Jovenes Maya Kaqchikeles (San Román Stoop (Todos Santos sustainable travel sustainable tours (Chiquistepeque) 195 (Chiquistepeque) Chisec) 223 Ruinas) 246 Retalhuleu) 193 96 (around Cobán) 223 Chiquimula) (around Tatasirire 231 121 (Panajachel) (Totonicapán) 172 (around Ciudad Vieja) 111 Hamaca y Pescado Project y Pescado Hamaca Lagunas de Sepalau (around (Copán Macaw Park Mountain Bird Alianza (around Nueva (Antigua) Old Town Outfitters Hun Nal Ye Ecológico Parque ue Ecoturístico Cascadas de Parq Rasta Mesa (Lívingston) 263 Reserva Atitlán Natural Sendero El Aprisco Ecológico Unicornio Azul (Chancol) 179 Experimental Station Valhalla Women Weavers (Santiago Women Weavers Atitlán) 131 Cuevas Nacional de (Parque Candelaria) 225 Cobán) 220 Chisec) 223 (Copán Ruinas) 247 306 (around El Perú) (Refugio Bocas del Polochic) 256 Santos Cuchumatán) 182 Santos Cuchumatán) Comunidad Candelaria Caves (around Cooperativa de Tejadores (around Cuevas de B’ombi’l Pek Enchanted Wings Butterfly House Escuela Bio-Itzá (San José) 283 Estación Biológica Las Guacamayas Estación Científica Selempim Arcas (Monterrico) 202 of MayaCojolya Association Tienda Grupo de Mujeres Grupo de (TodosTienda sights & activities shopping 360 LONELY PLANET OFFICES MAP LEGEND ROUTES Primary Tunnel Australia (Head Office) Secondary Pedestrian Overpass Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 Tertiary Walking Tour Lane Walking Tour Detour %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 Under Construction Walking Trail [email protected] Unsealed Road Walking Path One-Way Street Track Mall/Steps USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 TRANSPORT %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555 Ferry Rail (Underground) Metro Tram fax 510 893 8572 Rail [email protected] HYDROGRAPHY UK River, Creek Reef Intermittent River Canal 2nd fl, 186 City Rd, Swamp Water London EC1V 2NT Mangrove Mudflats %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 BOUNDARIES [email protected] International Regional, Suburb State, Provincial Ancient Wall Marine Park Cliff AREA FEATURES Published by Lonely Planet Airport Land Area of Interest Mall ABN 36 005 607 983 Beach, Desert Market Building Park © Lonely Planet 2010 Campus Reservation Cemetery, Christian Sports © photographers as indicated 2010 Forest Urban Cover photograph: Church of San Andrés Xecul, near Totonicapán, POPULATION Guatemala, Jeffrey Becom/Lonely Planet Images. Many of the images CAPITAL (NATIONAL) CAPITAL (STATE) Large City Medium City in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: Small City Town, Village lonelyplanetimages.com. SYMBOLS Sights/Activities Drinking Information All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored Beach Drinking Bank, ATM in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, Castle, Fortress Café Embassy/Consulate Entertainment electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts Christian Hospital, Medical Entertainment for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold Golf Shopping Information or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Monument Shopping Internet Facilities Sleeping Museum, Gallery Police Station Printed by Toppan Security Printing Pte Ltd Sleeping Point of Interest Post Office, GPO Camping Printed in Singapore Pool Transport Telephone Ruin Airport, Airfield Toilets Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Surfing, Surf Beach Border Crossing Geographic Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and Bus Station Trail Head Lookout Gas Station in other countries. Mountain, Volcano Zoo, Bird Sanctuary General Transport Eating Parking Area National Park Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by Eating Taxi Rank Waterfall commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR QUICK REFERENCE MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✆ buy books ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your HOW TO USE THIS BOOK BUSINESS HOURS soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right Sleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget order. Banks 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get For details of map symbols, see the Map Legend on the challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a last page of this book. Restaurants 7am-11pm (many close Sunday) clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ✍ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books % telephone c child-friendly Shops 8.30am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat ✏ ☎ ❛ ✗ ✉ ✏ ☞ h opening hours apt apartment get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints get DVDs plan Exceptions are noted in specific listings. adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✈ book flights ✎ scam p parking available d double rooms ➠ ✗ ✍ ✓ a the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies air-con available dm dorm beds recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo i internet available r rooms TELEPHONE safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ W wi-fi access s single rooms To dial listings in this book from outside Guatemala, dial find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the s swimming pool ste suites the international access code, the country code, then the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost w wheelchair access tr triple rooms number. Guatemala has no regional, area or city codes; just dial the same eight-digit number from anywhere in love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read v good vegetarian the country. hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to selection ❛ ✗ ✉ ☞ ✓ ✆ Guatemala country code %502 mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield EXCHANGE RATES International access code %00 ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ Prices in this book are quoted in Guatemalan quetzals (Q) meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear unless otherwise stated. 1 quetzal (Q) = 100 centavos. International collect calls %147120 the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. ➷ ❀ ☛ ➟ Domestic collect calls %147110 get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals Australia A$1 Q7.45 make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get Ambulance %125, 128 inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ Canada C$1 Q7.90 buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan Fire %122,123 adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ Euro zone €1 Q10.75 learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ Police %120 Japan ¥100 Q8.65 get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise Asistur (24hr tourist information & assistance) %1500 the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant New Zealand NZ$1 Q5.70 reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat UK UK£1 Q12.25 PHRASES ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get Hello. Hola. advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ US US$1 Q8.00 ✉ ☞ ✓ ✆ ☞ ✂ Goodbye. Adiós. check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road- Please. Por favor. ✓ ✑ ☎ ✆ Thank you. Gracias. trip buddies recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate PRICE RANGES ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, Sleeping Eating boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged CONVERSIONS ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape Budget Q400 >Q70 lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get 1ft = 0.3m ✗ ✍ ✓ ✑ ☎ 1km = 0.62 miles out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend get the lowdown Accommodation prices in this book are full price in high talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take season and include bathroom. Eating prices indicate 1 mile = 1.6km better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed the average cost of a main dish. Exceptions are noted in $ ➷ ❀ ☛ specific listings. 1kg = 2.2lb spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff 1lb = 0.45kg meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money 1g = 0.04oz ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) LONELY PLANET INDEX ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ 1oz = 28g ☞ ✓ ✆ ☞ ✂ ✎ 1L gas (petrol) Q8 read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam 1 imperial gallon = 4.55L the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies 1L bottled water Q10 1L = 0.26 US gallons ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the 1 US gallon = 3.8L savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews Bottle of Gallo beer Q15 1L = 0.22 imperial gallons  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides Chuchito (corn dough filled with spicy meat) Q5 Souvenir T-shirt Q50 lonelyplanet.com For additional price information, see Getting Started. Almost too much information 4TH EDITION USA $21.99 Published Oct 2010 First Published Jan 2001 UK £14.99

gguatemala_4_cover.indduatemala_4_cover.indd 2 119/05/20109/05/2010 8:38:058:38:05 AAMM © Lonely Planet lonelyplanet.com

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