Sailing Croatia
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Sailing Croatia Overview: A perfect combination of pristine islands, blue waters, historic villages, Croatia deserves the prominence in the charter world. Efficient fleets, reasonable prices and excellent marinas make it also the best destination to start sailing! The top places to visit: Sibenik and the Krka river, Kornati archipelago, Hvar, Mljet, Dubrovnik, Rovinj and Losinj Prices from: 80 euros per person per day Our rating: Wind and Sea: easy. Kids friendly: yes Lifestyle: adventure and nightlife Gourmet: medium Mileage (approx) :100-120 Cruise length: 1 or 2 weeks When to go: May to October Harbours and marinas: the best organization in the Med... read more Gourmet and restaurants: excellent for quantity and parties... read more History and art :The Venetian Maritime Republic left a wide collection of architecture and churches all along the coast. Split boasts a splendid Roman amphitheater and Museums, so does Dubrovnik. Hvar and Korcula are open air museums in themselves. The combination of the square and the port of Hvar is probably the finest example of how life in the area has always turned around the sea. Gastronomy :The importance of realizing that happiness is hard to achieve with an empty stomach cannot be overstressed. If you rented a bareboat or with a skippered boat, do not leave the harbour with a well stocked galley, because some cruising areas of Croatia are exceedingly devoid of groceries. Even more so if your palate is accustomed to a varied diet. This is very true in the Kornati archipelago, where it�s easier to find a tree than a loaf of bread. Most small villages can boast a grocery store, but the choice of food they offer is ghastly. They look deeply convinced that fish is born, grow up, spawns and dies in freezers. Same as chicken. Mutton is worth a note on its own: while in most places you do not see sheep around but readily find their corpses in butcheries, here it can be found roaming everywhere but they are probably immortals and the way to a good roast runs through bigger cities. Basically in Croatia you invert the shopping system that you use in the rest of the Med, where you stock up in staples in the bigger cities and have fun looking for fresh delicacies in smaller places. In Croatia stock up in supermarkets in delicacies, because the staples are easy to find everywhere. Among the NTBM (not to be missed) list of delicacies you must try in Croatia, a special mention goes to prawns and shrimps, Dalmatian ham, fresh fish in general in the Split area (San Peter and bass), fruits and vegetables (peaches are excellent), truffles. Beef should be preferred over chicken, and mutton is excellent but wildish in taste. Oysters around Dubrovnik, cheese from Pag, broiled sardines in Sibenik and Kali. Sausages and salami are very good, although far from Corsican perfection. Try beef or fish cooked in the peka, a utensil that is put under the burning coals. Around Hvar you have to try a Gregada, a fish soup in a very tasty stock. Then octopus salads and shellfish in general. While we noted with sadness that most fish goes straight from the boats to the restaurants, we also must remark that they make a very good use of it. Without being pretentious, the Croatian restaurants we tried work well indeed. As a matter of fact, when compared to their French and Italian counterparts in the touristy areas, they win hands down, with a greater genuinity, a higher respect for the client and a better price/quality ratio. Wine: Croatia doesn't rank high in the ratings of world wine, and one does not take much to understand why. The price/quality ratio is depressing, and one is tempted to buy crown-cap, 1-litre bottles of white just to risk less. Some bottles we found very good, like some dry Malvasias, but with that money you buy better everywhere else, and, moreover, you can buy tons of excellent beer. Lasko, Slatorog and Karlovacko are some of the brands, but we must underline that Croatian and Slovenian beers do deserve a mention. Malty and hoppy, tasty at every temperature, tasting even if industrial, the drinker won't be deceived. Recommended restaurants of the Blue Prawn guide : Isola di Solta – Maslinica: Rist ‘Conte Alberti’ Isola di Kornat: Opat Lastovo, Zlakoplatica (N coast)- Triton Coop. Pescatori (molo coperto) – Muggia (TS) Fora per Fora via Diaz 9 - Trieste +39 040 9197873 Enoteca Marino – Trieste Sidro – Veli Losinj – Porto Vecchio Bepi – Novigrad ( Pirano (Slovenia) – ‘Fontane’ Weather and navigation The prudent sailor never casts off with the assumption that Nelson was right when he said 'there are three excellent harbours in the Med: Mahon, July and August'. Strong winds, cold fronts, thunderstorms and squalls must be expected at any month, even if they are of course less common in summer. True, safe havens, coves and bays abound along the Dalmatian coastline, and the endless channels provide smooth sailing even in strong winds. But nevertheless some cons must be reported. First of all some anchorages look bottomless. So always make sure that you are leaving with a long and heavy anchor chain, a serious spare anchor, possibly a fisherman, and lines to lay ashore in constricted waters and/or for better protection. Second, the more or less complete absence of sandy beaches indicates that sand is unlikely to be the bottom your anchor will fall on. Rocks, grass and other delicacies are more likely, and none rank high among the preference of sailors. So set your anchor well, have a look at it whenever possible with your snorkelling gear and always choose to lay out warps ashore towards the direction of the stronger prevailing winds whenever possible. Trees and rocks are there to work as cleats, what else? The bad guys are Bora (NE), NW and SW. Bora can be very distressing. True, it comes from the shore, but it can kick up something nasty enough in a few miles, especially in the north and the Kvaerner. It is less to be feared S of Hvar, where southerlies are worse. Northerlies are usually associated to a cold front, so expect them to arrive when the barometer stops falling. Make sure the barometer works. Another drawback of the blessed geography of Croatia is the number of rocks awash or just below the water, especially around the Kornati archipelago. A chart plotter is a good help, especially if it is not a long walk away from the helm. But the best is always to follow the LLLL rule, lead, log, longitude and lookout. Keep an eye around and always be sure of where you are and what you are supposed to have below your craft. Harbours and Marinas Contrary to their neighbours the Italians, Croatians understood well that Marinas can be a business and a service, and not a resource to be laughed at. Marinas are ubiquitous in Croatia. Clean, well sheltered, offering most services, well designed and not too offensive of the environment. They are not cheap, with a berth for a 40 footer at an average 50 euros a night. Most are managed by ACI. Some of them, like Hvar, Korcula and Dubrovnik, are very popular. So get there before 2 p.m. Water and Diesel First of all check well if the water and diesel dials of your vessel work. If you assume gentlemenship from petrol stations you will soon see the fallacy of your expectations. Water, they will say most of the time, can be found at the marina, and that dripping tap few feet to the left is just to quench the thirst of dogs, and the key is not at hand anyway. Try with the old system (T.I.P) or approach marinas when empty or before the attendants get there to wave you off. Kornat itinerary Kornat (crowned): if it's nature, silence and landscapes what you are looking for, this wind-swept, rock-barren and sage-scented island is your destination. It looks like a long wave of stones recently emerged from the blue waters, where no trees had the time to grow. Sail along the W side and explore its many bays, among which we report Opat 43 44'20.03"N, 15 27'7.82"E (the S-most) with its excellent restaurant, Lopatica and Vrulje (the restaurant here has been reported ghastly). Its hard to find an unpleasant corner here. Find your own private bay, also using the many small islands and coves lying W of it. We suggest letting go in a bay in the evening, hike up the hills and scan the view to find your favourite bay for the following day. The Kornati N.P. is not cheap, at 10 euros pppday, collected by employees with fast dinghies in most anchorages. Smokvica (small fig): this small island lies just S of Kornat and boasts two bays, the westernmost of which is simply amazing. Horseshoe-shaped, it's protected by a low saddles stretching between two low hills and you can see other islands on the other side but not the sea in between, so that in clear days you have the exact sensation of being anchored in an alpine lake. 43 43'17.39"N, 15 28'28.87"E Lavsa: this beautiful island shelters a bay (with cosy village attached) that is one of the favourite havens of the archipelago. Not very roomy and somewhat shallows to accept many vessels. Piskera: On this tiny island situated along the outside passage you find the only marina of the Kornat National Park.