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ě hútòng NG •• GettingNG Away & There Ī IJ Ě ng. The Batong Line runs through the ng’s Capital Airport is 27km northeast ī ī Taxis are everywhere and finding one is one is and finding everywhere are Taxis ij ij A taxi cost be- from the airport should Bikes are a good way to see central B are Bikes Line 1 runs from east to west, cutting cutting east to west, runs from Line 1 of more much and cover plentiful Buses are ě ě from the centre of town, or about 40 minutes 40 minutes town, or about of from the centre A rail link between the to one hour by car. airport and Dongzhimen subway station will the Olympics. Public be open by the time of bus 359 runs from Dongzhimen to the air- bus also several express are port (Y3). There lines that run to the airport; all cost Y16. The Line 3 and Line 2. Both start most useful are taxi drivers speak little English, but are gen- but are speak little English, taxi drivers erally honest. via Dongzhimen. tween Y80 and Y100, including the airport the taxi touts toll (Y10). Avoid expressway you into at the airport who will try and get an illegal taxi that will cost Y300 for the trip into town. To/From the Airport To/From the Airport B every 15 minutes, running at 7.30am, leaving and continue until the last flight has arrived in the evening. Line 3 runs from the International Hotel Fàndiàn; 9 Jianguomennei Dajie; and Beijing Train Station via Chaoyangmen. in Xidan Building Line 2 runs to the Aviation only a problem during (infrequent) rain- during (infrequent) only a problem They cost Y10 for hour. storms and rush 3km and then Y2 per kilometre the first that. Betweenafter is 11pm and 6am there All taxis to the fare. added a 20% surcharge Most B and use a meter. should have especially the traffic roads means it can be perilous on the at Beijing can be hired riding around. Bikes ), Peking p83 ( Youth Hostel Saga International Accommodation Downtown Backpackers ). opposite ) and Red House ( Hotel p83 ( through the centre of town. Line 2 is a cir- Line 2 is town. of through the centre 13 loops through Line north of the cle line. B sta- interchange are There suburbs. eastern tions between all the lines. slow the subway, but they make the city than in the B progress the con- Y1; you pay are short hops. Tickets on The routes driver. ductor rather than the in Chinese rather than English, bus signs are so you need how many stops you to know boarding. need to go before , , ū ū Zhàn; ī . ng to ng to ) ī ng X ī ij ij ě ě ; B 旧鼓楼大 , noon-midnight; noon-midnight; nmíng, leaving nmíng, leaving ū nmíng. 号 ū h 43 莲花池东路 北京西站 ( ng. The underground ng. The underground ī is the best way to get is the best way to get ij ) ě ě Station

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There are no buses from B are There There is a 24-hour foreigners’ ticket of- ticket is a 24-hour foreigners’ There Two trains a day run to Chóngqìng, at Two trains a day run to Chóngqìng, at All trains to China’s Southwest depart from All trains to China’s Southwest ; dishes from Y35, set lunch Y50; ; dishes from Y35, There are three trains a day to Chéngd three are There at 6.40pm for the 39-hour trip. A hard-seat dragon moves much faster than the traffic. faster much dragon moves at the only four lines in existence are There set to open in are moment, but another five cost Y3, or Tickets years. the next couple of from Line 1 or 2 transferring Y5 if you are to Line 13. The subway Chéngd GETTING AROUND .com, or through hotels and travel agents, but agents, .com, or through and travel hotels them at the station. to get it’s cheaper fice at Beijing West Station on the 2nd floor. fice at Beijing West Station on the 2nd floor. can be bought online at www.china Tickets and www.china-train-ticket tripadvisor.com ticket costs Y320, soft seat Y509. Hard sleeper seat costs Y320, soft Y509. Hard ticket sleepers and soft Y539/558/578 are tickets Y852/890. Y401/416/430 (top/middle/bottom bunk); Y401/416/430 (top/middle/bottom bunk); Y631/658 (top/bottom). are sleepers soft Y238, soft-seat sleeper Y376. A hard costs 4.26pm and 9.28pm. The journey takes be- 4.26pm and 9.28pm. The journey takes are tickets Hard-seat tween 24 and 30 hours. bunk). Soft sleeper tickets are Y615/642 (top/ are sleeper tickets bunk). Soft bottom bunk). between 26 and 32 hours. A hard-seatbetween 26 and 32 hours. ticket tick- is Y231, soft-seat Y366. Hard-sleeper ets cost Y391/405/418 (top/middle/bottom leaving at 11.29am, 4.35pm and 10.48pm. and 10.48pm. at 11.29am, 4.35pm leaving the journey takes Depending on the train, % Beijing in China’s Southwest. See the Transport chap- ). p486 for further details ter ( A number of airlines fly to Chéngd of A number Chóngqìng, K GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY Café setting is pleasant, the staff helpful and you can pick up you can pick up staff helpful and pleasant, the setting is guides here. Lonely Planet lonelyplanet.com off Jiu Gulou Dajie; off Jiu Gulou Dajie; around central B 街 b converted courtyard to Doufu house at the entrance pleasant in summer when This place is especially Hutong. the stars and satellites. you dine under GATEWAY SHÀNGHǍ I ready todosomeurbanexploring–there’s more here toseethanyoumightthink. is the21stcentury,PRCstyle. So leave theyakinSìchu with thebrandimage,Shàngh days.city cametostandforinthepre-communist Andeven ifreality doesn’talwaysequate something closertothecaptivatingswirlofsex,fashion,moneyandneonlightsthat duced by theShanghai Municipal Tourism hawkers (mostof thelatter are Chinese-only). hotel bookshopsandoccasionally fromstreet Foreign Bookstore Languages (see above ), major English mapsof Shàngh Maps passport forIDinmostplaces. frequent turnover of your locales.You’llneed Internet cafésare allover town,butthere’s a Internet Access h % Bureau Public Security Police Fire Ambulance Emergency The bestspottostockuponreading material. h Sh LanguagesBookstore Foreign Bookshops minorities circledancing. Say‘Shàngh visitsShàngh No-one Gateway Shàngh 86 © LonelyPlanetPublications ogy Museum) NearJinxiuRd( ogy Museum) 上海 INFORMATION ū See LonelyPlanet’s The bilingual „ „ „ FAST FACTS diàn; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat; Rd; 6854 1199;1500Minsheng &Sat; 9.30am-6pm, to7pmFri ( Stat Population: ### Area code: % ( % % 119) 110) ( 6322 3200;390Fuzhou Rd; % 120) % Shanghai Map, Tourist m ### (PSB; Shanghai Science&Technol- ǎ 锦绣路 Shanghai i withvisionsintheirheadsofsteep, muddyriceterraces orethnic ǎ 公安局 i are available atthe 民生路 m ( 外文书店 ). Middle HenanRd) Middle 福州路 ǎ guideforadditionalinformation. ; G i’s pulsingmetropolissomehowdemandsastopover –this 1500 ō ng ā ; Wàiwén ǎ 号 njú; 390 i’ tosomeone,andthey’re muchmore toimagine likely ; pro- 号 ; outside thehospital. 15th-floor foreigners’ clinic;a24-hourpharmacyislocated ment andout-patientconsultationsare availableatthe 木齐中路 % in Shàngh restaurant openings. to town, fromartexhibitionsandclubnights offer plugintowhat’sonin aninstant These end, hotel, the monthly the first thingtodoisgrab afree copyof If you’re lookingforentertainment ideas, Media &InternetResources (see Information Centres opposite ). Administration, isfree athotels andTourist (ICBC) accept mostmajor cards. (ICBC) ofthe Industrial andCommercial Bank China at variousbranches of of the Bank Chinaand and banksaccept major credit cards.ATMs counters. Mosttouristhotels, restaurants hotelAlmost every hasmoney-changing Money Hospital Huashan Medical Services www.thatssh.com www.smartshanghai.com www.shanghaiist.com www.cityweekend.com.cn frolicking. archived articles. ǎ The bestlocalwebsites are listed below. 6248 9999, ext 2351;12CentralWulumuqiRd; 6248 9999,ext

Shanghai Talk i

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( ; GATEWAY SHÀNGH ; 外滩 ǎ % m i GuójìF ( 5353 1117;561EastNanjingRd; Middle HenanRd) Middle 342 ; Zh % ; Wàit ǎ ō 号 2 ǎ i. Walk the strip, take a cruise i. Walkthestrip,take acruise ngguó GuójìL 6353 2683;www.statravel.com.cn;Suite 号 ngwènzh ; Ch , acrosstheroadfromAir- ā ; n; m ); Shanghai Information Centre for Shanghai InformationCentre .

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兴业路 ( ě ū Middle HenanRd) Middle (PSB; 上海国际访问者中心 Zh GuójìL Shanghai Science&Technol- Ǎ and • Sgt I ••Sights m ǚ ī ō nti 158 xíngshè) ngx 公安局 Century Square Century 北京西路 Hanzhong Rd) Sells Hanzhong Rd)Sells 民生路 ǚ ā 123 号 ; Wàit ī 南京西路 n; xíngshè; ndì ( right ). Jing’an ( % ; 弄 % (CITS; h East JinlingRd ā ; G 6289 4510, 2 n S , thepictur- 6384 9366;No 号新天地 锦绣路 9am-6pm 1500 ō 南京东路 %

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; 号 ; ; ; ; h blocks of renovated traditional all isstyle-conscious bars andchic restaurants. Theepicentre of it areboulevards bursting withboutiques,hip sion % Huxinting Teahouse Steamed (see BunRestaurant opposite ) and entrance are thejustifiablyfamousNanxiang souvenir hawkers of allages. Nearthegarden’s 5.30pm) Anren Street; &Bazaar uan Gardens pointistheperpetuallycrowded starting temples) tomake forsomegreat strolls.Agood opment, buthasretained charm enough (and cumbing tothepressures of real devel- estate intheformerracecourse club. housed h West NanjingRd; ( withthe to beconfused artinthecountry.It’snot traditional Chinese themostimpressiveshowcases collectionof & studentY20/5; % ShanghaiMuseum inthecity,includingmust-see museums m 展 Museum Culture Lìsh ( include theexcellent sights (87thfloor).Othernotable Cloud 9Bar deck(88thfloor)ordrinks inthe observation tour Y15; Century Ave; Tower 100 CenturyAve; 海环球金融中心 buildings, the and breathtaking, includingChina’stallest land nowforested withtowers bothbizarre takable the early1900s. tenement buildingsbuiltin low-rise houses, 马当路的路口 .xintiandi.com; cnrTaicang Rd; Rd&Madang Pearl Tower,1Shiji Dadao; 上海美术馆 上海城市历史发展陈列馆 Further west is the delightful Further westisthedelightful Renmin Square Renmin ; Zh 8am-9.30pm) The Across theriver fromtheBundisunmis- ǐ 6373 6950; People’s Sq) 9am-5pm, lastentry4pm) 6372 3500; 2 Renmin Ave;6372 3500;2Renmin F ( ā ō zh 法国租界

, a16th-centurygardensurroundedby nghuá Xìng Wénhuà héXìngJiànk ( 金茂大厦 ǎ Old Town h P n Chénliègu ǔ 安仁街 世纪大道 d 8.30am-10pm) ō , orPeople’s Sq,ishometothetop h ng 南京西路 h 世纪大道 ; Shàngh andtheeye-opening Shanghai WorldFinancial Center

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% % ( 新天地 French Conces- French 2 ā ī ; admissionY35; nróng Zh 号 ng Jiàoyùzh 5047 5101;88 ī ntíng Chágu 6327 2829;325 6326 0830;218 太仓路和 shík ǎ , several ; adult/child ǎ i Bówùgu h China Sex China Sex i Chéngshì ǎ , which ngch Jinmao ū ; www 8.30am- ō mén ngx ( ǎ Yuy- 上 ng; ǎ ǎ

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GATEWAY SHÀNGHǍ I ; ) ) ; 89 ). South s i n; iyuè iyuè Middle 大食代 ǎ ǎ m ng ī diàn; diàn; South t ǔ ī ǔ m ngu is 小笼包 ī 崂山东路 ē Lujiazui; Lujiazui; 南翔馒头 m ( n B nmào K ī ī ; W m ; J ichén Dàji 船长青年酒店 ; s & d from Y980; nchén Dàji Dongchang Rd; ; Ruìj ī ě 7am-10pm) This eatery ( 5836 5966; www I •• Sleeping I •• ; J Ǎ 号 ; M 6355 4206; 85 Yuyuan Rd; 6355 4206; 85 Yuyuan ; s/d Y900/1080; m h % ; d from Y2915; ; s & d Y1200; 号 % 号 号 diàn; 795-809 935 ǔ 88 ; d from Y2590; 瑞金宾馆 ( 118 威斯汀大饭店 号 ( ndì complex ( opposite ), where ), where opposite ndì complex ( 88 金晨大酒店 ( 美臣大酒店 ā 金茂凯悦大酒店 6335 1888; www.westin.com; 88 Central 88 Central www.westin.com; 6335 1888; ( ; meals Y10-20; ) A stylish component of the Bund Center, ) A stylish component 5049 1234; www.hyatt.com; 88 Century 5049 1234; www.hyatt.com; 88 Century ngnián Ji ( ī nti 号 淮海中路 淮海中路 ī % 河南中路 s % ng Q 85 ng location is less than ideal, though the Captain 瑞金二路 ǎ ō ng ng ; dm Y60, s/d Y198/450; d ō ǔ diàn; 世纪大道 6471 7000; www.jinchenhotel.com; 795-809 Central sevenSouth Shaanxi Rd) Arranged over floors, the 6466 2020; www.masonhotel.com; 935 Central 6466 2020; www.masonhotel.com; 6472 5222; www.shedi.net.cn/outedi/ruijin; 118 Ruijin 6472 5222; www.shedi.net.cn/outedi/ruijin; d ǔ 号 ; Nánxiáng Mántoudiàn; ǔ serves up the city’s most famous dumplings ( 豫园路 店 Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant Grand Hyatt EATING for the innumer- look on a budget, If you’re as Megabite; able food courts (such For a more Dàshídài) in malls everywhere. culinary experience, head to the sophisticated ) opposite on the Bund (see Three ultra-chic or the X Jinchen Hotel Ruijin Guesthouse P CaptainHostel Zhangyang Rd Shanghainese from traditional range choices to Thai and Italian. Westin Shanghai Westin French Concession Mason Hotel The P runs a tight ship. .captainhostel.com.cn; 527 East Laoshan Rd; 527 Chuánzh Huaihai Rd; small, brick offering Jinchen is excellent, tastefully clean, furnished rooms. % m Shaanxi Rd) From its discreet outward appearance to the outward Shaanxi Rd) From its discreet small and well-proportioned lobby (with Art Deco–style this boutique- and casual black leather furniture), motifs and intimate. style hotel is both relaxed Huaihai Rd; % Dàfàndiàn; Dàfàndiàn; Henan Rd; Henan Rd; in the district.this is the best hotel several Home to top spa. Banyan Tree and the restaurants % No 2 Rd; Shaanxi Rd) The Ruijin has elegant grounds and a series of old mansions converted Some of the city’s into rooms. and bars charmingly most romantic and stylish restaurants nestle in the gardens. Dàji Ave; No place for those with vertigo, the Grand Hyatt shoots up from the 54th floor of the Jinmao Tower. 33 stylish storeys

; 南 ; 安远 莫干 ngnián ng ng ī i room i room ng ǎ and the ī 江西 ǎ Q x ī ě People’s People’s . SHÀNGH GATEWAY ; admission Y20; ; admission Middle Henan m 浦江饭店 Middle Henan ng Zh ( ) An old turn-of- ā xíngzh ; dm Y70, d ; dm Y70, d 号 ; Chuánzh ǚ m 明堂上海旅行 nji m ǐ 号 ( ngyà Fàndiàn; ngyà Fàndiàn; i L People’s Sq) Reno-People’s i 6327 7766; 57 Jiangyin ǎ ō ; J Jade Buddha Temple Jade Buddha 2789 37 50 Moganshan Rd Art50 Moganshan ; dm Y80, d Y580-1280; ; dm Y80, d Y580-1280; ; D 8.30am-4.30pm) 8.30am-4.30pm) m % 号 , the nexus of the city’s the city’s , the nexus of 上海易途青年酒店 h 15 shí Hào; 50 Moganshan Rd; shí Hào; 50 Moganshan ( diàn; ǔ 6266 3668; 170 Anyuan Rd; 6266 3668; 170 ǔ 福州路 6323 5053; www.captainhostel ; s/d Y199/239; 6324 6388; www.pujianghotel.com; 6324 6388; www.pujianghotel.com; 滨江大道 % nlù W 船长青年酒店 东亚饭店 号 ; dm/s/d Y50/180/220; % ā ( ( % 黄浦路 Middle Henan Rd; 33 ; d from Y420; ; Míngtáng Shàngh ngnián Ji 号 锦江之星旅馆 ī nsh ( ā 号 ; dm from Y55, d Y200; 57 6329 7889; 450 Central Jiangxi Rd; 6326 0505; www.jj-inn.com; 33 South Fujian 6326 0505; www.jj-inn.com; 33 South Fujian diàn; ; admission free) m ǔ ; Yùfó Sì; ; admission Y20; ; admission Y20; 号 680 号 % % i Yìtú Q (Mòg ) A short hike from the Bund, rooms include tidy

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50 450 n; n; ng Fàndiàn; ǎ ǎ Middle Henan Rd) This historic hotel is at the north 6322 3233; fax 6322 4598; 680 East Nanjing Rd; 8am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri-Sun) to Mon-Thu, 8am-10.30pm ā i 福建南路 江阴路

Further afield are the the are Further afield 170 ji gu gu ngnián Ji ī ǔ ǚ ǚ 玉佛寺 Q Shàngh % 京东路 vated in 2005, the two-star East Asia Hotel is a popular and long-standing fixture on the cheap Shàngh East Asia Hotel Jinjiang Inn Pujiang Hotel/Astor House Hotel Captain Hostel Ming Town Hiker Hostel Youth 者青年旅馆 Easy Tour Youth Hostel The Bund & Renmin Square The Bund & Renmin Square Rooms are often marked down considerably; down considerably; marked often Rooms are for a discount. to ask sure make SLEEPING SLEEPING Centre 路 at the nearby galleries ( 2789 Riverside Ave; 2789 Riverside Ave; h Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book .com.cn; 37 Fuzhou Rd; .com.cn; 37 Fuzhou P Rd; west off RenminSq) The setting and location – just a Sq in with the best, up there building with a bit of history – are damp. are but it’s a bit drab and some rooms circuit. Reception is on the 2nd floor through a clothing shop. Y450-1200; the-century building off the Bund, the Captain has clean dorms with bunk beds, OK double rooms and a top-floor bar for rum, drunken and long views over the sailors Huangpu River. m end of the Bund with loads of stylish midrange rooms. is also one dorm room, but it’s generally full. There 15 Huangpu Rd; L 中路 Rd; four- and six-bed dorms with pine bunk beds and three four- and six-bed dorms with pine bunk beds and three good-value luxury doubles. L Rd; Rd) This central branch of this hotel chain has bright, airy doubles with shower rooms, some with pleasant views Rd side. over parkland on the noisier Fujian art scene. 山路 GATEWAY SHÀNGHǍ I aware thatsometrains maydepart from the charge). Be of (noservice the trainstation chaotic ticket office thatisto the southeast You canalsobuy tickets atthemuch more charge.in advancehere, withaY5 service r tv chefs. cre ative food,withprecious littleoiland organic vegetarian m tion) tion a shortwalkwestof the hu office buying tickets isatthe be epicinduration.Theeasiestoption for journeyscanthe Southwestviarail,though Shàngh Train Chóngqìng andYích Shàngh Yangzi River were nolonger departingfrom At thetimeof upthe writing,boatcruises Boat of upto40%. agencies willnormallyoffer discounted fares and Zh (Y2430), Nánníng(Y1660),Yích Guìyáng (Y1600),K (Y1610), Chóngqìng(Y1490),Guìlín(Y1310), include Chángsh these usually leave timesaday).Pricesfor several majorevery cityinChina’sSouthwest(and exceptions). Hongqiao airportinthewest(withoccasional flyoutofsoutheast, whiledomesticflights operate outofflights Pudongairportinthe Shàngh Air GETTING THERE&AWAY Ajisen B LifeStyle Vegetarian 90 8000; 77SongshanRd; Rd; great placetogetafeel forShàngh to getintothisamazinglybusyplace. Opentill6am,it’sa Join Shanghainesenightowlsqueuingdownthestreet Handy branchesthroughouttown. photomenus. ing Japanesenoodledishesviaeasy-to-use m 327 EastNanjingRd; ǎ ǒ oluó Ji Daily domestic flights connectShàngh Daily domesticflights 富民路 ch South HuangpiRd)ForlightandhealthyChinese Middle HenanRd)Choosefromamongmouthwater- Middle . Youcanbooksleepers uptoninedays

( ē GATEWAY SHÀNGH

上海站 ( ( piào shòupiàochù; 龙门宾馆火车票售票处 味千拉面 ǎ ǎ ǎ ā ǔ i. Most cruises now only run between nowonlyrunbetween i. Mostcruises i hastwoairports:mostinternational i isreasonably wellconnected to ngji lóu 271 ( ; Shàngh 号 ā 保罗酒楼 jiè (Y1330),butmosttravel ; mainsY20-50; 南京东路 ; Wèiqi 嵩山路 ( ǎ 枣子树 % ū i zhàn; ā ā nmíng (Y1900),Lìji Ǎ n L ng (Húb ; • GtigTee&Aa There &Away I ••Getting 6317 9325; % ā ā 77 (Y890),Chéngd Longmen Hotel ticket ticket Longmen Hotel miàn; 327 Shanghaitrainsta- m 号 ǎ ; Z 5403 7239;271Fumin i’s famousbuzz. m 号 ǎ ; mainsY20-38; Shanghai TrainSta- ozi Shù; % ; LóngménB ; mealsY30; Changshu Rd) ě i). h ā 6360 7194; ng (Y1080) % 8am-9pm) 6384 ī ngu ǎ ā i to ng ū ǎ , n

between HongqiaoandPudong airports,bus between m or over anhourifyou’re not.Youcantake there takes about30minutes ifyou’re lucky, % runfrom7amto11pm. Buses airport you’re arrivingatordepartingfrom. Always check yourticket tobesure which To/From theAirport 10% surcharge. kilometre thereafter. From11pm,there’s a is Y11forthefirst 3kmandY2.10foreach 8am and9am,4.30pm6pm.Thecost flag down,buttrytoavoid rushhours between with theexceptionof theOldTown. Lines 1and2cover everywhere of importance, http://urbanrail.net/as/shan/shanghai.htm); metro system (tickets Y3toY6;formapsee Your best betforgetting aroundthecityis GETTING AROUND hours). (Y502, 43½hours) andNánníng(Y387,33 hours), Guìyáng(Y405,32½hours), K Chóngqìng (Y475,42hours), Guìlín(Y341,26 Chéngd tions include:Chángsh via P national Airportto theShanghai trainstation fromthePudong Inter-and bus5(Y18)goes near Jing’anTemple onWestNanjingRd, 站楼 port tothe 2 (Y19)runsfromPudongInternational Air- of thecity. P around anhourtoget inataxi. queues;sometimesittakesits astonishing taxi time of day.HongqiaoAirport isfamousfor conditionsandtheon theroute taken, traffic tre of towncostfromY50toY70,depending domestic departure hall.Taxis fromthecen- leave theairportfromdirectly infrontof the Rd intheFrench Concession. Bothbuses Yan’anner of Central RdandNorthShaanxi CAAC fromthenortheastcor- bus(Y5)goes bus 925fromRenminSqtotheairport.A around Y140. Airport from thecitycentre (onehour) costs South trainstation ǔ d Hongqiao Airport Taxis are alsoreasonably cheap andeasyto Hard pricesformajor sleeper destina- Pudong International Airport Pudong International Shanghai SouthTrainStation) ō 6268 8918) ng GuójìJ ; J ǔ d ī ch ō ū ǎ ng. A taxi toPudongInternationalng. Ataxi (Y259toY452,3545hours), ng ChéngshìHángzhànlóu; ī Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ch is18kmfromtheBund;getting Airport bus 1 Airport Airport City TerminalAirport ǎ ng; % (

上海南站 ( 虹桥机场 3848 4500) ( ā % (Y272,18½hours), . is30kmsoutheast 3848 4500;Y30) (

; Shàngh 浦东国际机场 ; HóngqiáoJ m ( 机场城市航 Jing’an Temple) ǎ i Nánzhàn; ū runs ī ch nmíng ǎ ng; ;

GATEWAY SHÀNGHǍ I ng ng ā 91 ji ǔ ng. ng. ; huángp ō , which shut- , which d ǔ depart hourly from from depart hourly © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © ; 1hr cruise Y25-Y50, 3½hr 3½hr ; 1hr cruise Y25-Y50, 号 I •• GettingI •• Around 黄浦江游览船 Ǎ ( (Y0.50, air-con Y2)

10am-8pm) 219-239 6374 4461; 219-239 East Second Zhongshan Second 219-239 East 6374 4461; Zhongshan h depart from the Bund’s dock, the Bund’s dock, depart from % ng ferry tour boats tour boats ō d ǔ (Y40-70;

nchuán; ǎ 中山东二路 For an abbreviated boat tour, catch the the catch boat tour, For an abbreviated ity. Most ity. Most yóul Rd; cruise Y70-120) near East Rd. Popular 30-minute Jinling cruises Lujiazui, P Dock in the Pearl Bund–P tles regularly across the Huangpu River. tles regularly runs from from runs 2890 7777) % (

SHÀNGH GATEWAY

Maglev train

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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. views of the Bund and the riverfront activ- the Bund and the riverfront views of The Huangpu River offers some stirring some stirring offers Huangpu River The utes from 8.30am to 5.30pm and hit warp warp to 5.30pm and hit from 8.30am utes speed430km/h. at Boat the Pudong airport to its terminal near the near the to its terminal airport the Pudong metro stationLongyang Rd way/return (one run every 20 min- from here Y50/80). Trains lonelyplanet.com GATEWAY HONG KONG with your own laptop. If you didn’t bring yours with your ownlaptop.Ifyou didn’tbringyours you’ll have notrouble accessing theinternet and allof Hong KongInternational Airport, or free wireless access, including mosthotels With theplethoraof placesoffering low-cost Internet Access Line Crisis Rape Hotline Police Crime Ambulance, Fire &Police anywhere, thingscangowrong. Hong Kongisgenerally very safe but,aswith Emergency Swindon Books HongKongBookCentre Bookshops offorendatriptoChina’sSouthwest. place fromwhichtokick of accessiblebeachesandnaturalretreats forlovers ofthegreat outdoors. It’stheperfect cuisines. And,despite itssize andrapidurbanisation,HongKonghasasurprisingnumber culture; stunningmodernarchitecture; andaseeminglyendlesschoiceofrestaurants and Harbour ordownfromthePeak; devoted museumswithrichcollections tolocalhistoryand something foreveryone: shoppingmallswithbargains galore; romanticvistasacrossVictoria stir intoaninvigoratingcocktailofcolourandaroma,taste andsensation.Hong Konghas from BritishtoChinesesovereignty, and this‘meetingofeastandwest’continuestoshake done nothingtodiminishitsabilityastonish.Even adecadeafter thereturn ofHongKong Hong Kong,apulsatingfusionoftwocultures, noothercityinChina,andtimehas islike 香港 Kong Hong Gateway 92 © LonelyPlanetPublications MTR Central)Sisterstore toSwindonBooks. to5.30pmSat,1-5pmSunJul&Aug only; 6.30pm Mon-Fri, On LokYuen Bldg,25DesVoeuxRd,Central; of thebest‘real’ bookshopsinHongKong. Sat, 12.30-6.30pmSun;MTRTsim ShaTsui) Swindonisone Tsim ShaTsui; INFORMATION For awholelotmore details,seeLonelyPlanet’s „ „ „ FAST FACTS Stat Population: ### Telephone code: h ( ( 9am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, & to7.30pmFri 辰衝 % ( 2375 5322) % ; % % ( ( % 2527 7177) % 2366 8001;13-15LockRd, ### 2522 7064;basement, 999) h 9am- excellent links. centres (see opposite ). limited) out copiesof thebimonthly(and somewhat free. TheHong KongTourismBoardhands better,Hong Kong,andeven they’re usually Decent touristmapsare easytocomebyin Maps 13 or40M) h coffee.com; groundfl,theWorkStation,43LyndhurstTce,Central; including its along, outletsof thePacific Coffee Company, www.12hk.com Kong’s entertainment scene,isless useful. guidetoHong .bcmagazine.net), abiweekly shops andhotels. Thefree listings available Fridaysatrestaurants, bars, prehensive free magazineof entertainment HK Magazine Media &InternetResources from theinternet. of HongKongdowntostreet printable level, HK CityMap loon and the1:9000 1:80,000 many mapsof HongKong, includingthe Universal Publications Universal Good localwebsites: 7am-midnight Mon-Thu, &Sat,8am-11pmSun; to1amFri (HK$25),available atmostbookshops. Hong Kong&Macau , offer free accesswithapurchase. Hong KongMap Hong Kong Touring MapHong KongTouring

(www.hkcitymap.com) Central branch Central

HongKong’s ‘unofficialguide’,with (www.asia-city.com) isacom- City Map of HongKong&Kow- (www.up.com.hk) ( % guide. atitsinformation bc magazine has detailed maps hasdetailed 2537 1688;www.pacific produces (HK$22) (www bus GATEWAY HONG KONG 93 Tai Wan Long 10 km Chau Basalt Island Tap Mun Port Island HKTB Visitor High Island Reservoir Island Bluff Double Island 2522 3141; 1b Park (HKTB; www.discover

Bay Hoi Ha Chau 2958 8888; 30 Chau Wan Marine Clearwater Tiu Chung Sai Kau Sai % Kung Tung Yan ( Tong Chau Peninsula % Lung Chau ( Bay Sung Joss Kong House Island Kat Shelter O Hoi 0 0 6 miles Big Bay between 8am and 6pm. Po Habe Wave Toi Haven On Ma Shan divided into 100 cents. Travel- Tai Lo Bay Tam Area Tong Hill Kwun Chau Tolo Buffalo Protected 6 distributes useful distributes and pamphlets Harbour Ma Shi Chau 2508 1234) Wong Leng ISLAND Bay Stanley Pat Sin Leng Shan HONG KONG % Causeway Tsui Country Park ( 3 6 Bay Tsim Sha Tsim Hong Kong Tourism Board Hong Kong Tourism Board Repulse Chai Wan 1 Yau Ma Tei Yau Mun Shing Tunnel 2 Mong Kok Lower Albert Rd, Central; MTR Central) Private hospital on Hong Kong Island. publications and has branches at Hong Kong publications and has branches ; open 7am to p96 Airport (seeInternational ; open p96 Concourse ( 11pm), the Star Ferry and near Exit F Tsui, Sha 8am to 8pm) in Tsim the Causewayof station Bay (open 8am MTR call the to 8pm). Alternatively, Hotline Queen Elizabeth Hospital Money is the Hong Kong dollar currency The unit of (HK$), which is from home accounts can withdraw funds lers the numerous ATMs any of using just about The most widely around the territory. scattered Visa, MasterCard, cards are credit accepted Club and JCB. Diners American Express, Tourist Information The Hong Kong Central Hospital Gascoigne Rd, Yau Ma Tei; MTR Yau Ma Tei) Public hospital Public Ma Tei) MTR Yau Ma Tei; Gascoigne Rd, Yau in Kowloon. Central hongkong.com) Chau Ap Lei 5 (522m) Tai Mo Lamma Shan Victoria Peak 1 Yi Tsing B1 B2 C3 C2 C3 A3 A3 A2 A2 3 4 5 6 3 2 2300 7 1 Reserve & Nature % Mai Po Marsh Tai Bay) Lam Chau 2 4 (Discovery Cheung 2 Tunnel Tai Pak Wan 5 Bay ...... Silvermine Shenchen Zone (Sez) Good start news. for local Special Economic Shek Sunset Peak ...... Hong Kong’s answer to the call Mandatory surfing a before ...... 佭␃▩ഄ݀೦ Kwu Chau 佭␃ᓌ຿ሐῖ೦ The Hong Kong Arts site Centre’s Peak Castle KONG •• Information HONG GATEWAY 1 7 ໽ປ໻ԯ Peak a monthly listing of performances, Lantau Chek Lap Kok LANTAU 佭␃⍋⋟݀೦ emergency departments or clinics. departments emergency Artslink,

Airport Hong Kong International HONG KONG HONG

Ocean Park Ocean Park Tan Buddha Tian Hong WetlandKong Park SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Disneyland Hong Kong Queen Elizabeth Hospital...... INFORMATION INFORMATION AirportHKTB Information Centre ...... Hong Kong Central Hospital...... exhibitions and art-house film screenings. night out on the town.

Medical care is generally of a high standard, of is generally care Medical and stretched but public hospital are facilities The expensive. is hospitalprivate treatment inquiry number is hospital general Medical Services Medical Services www.hongkongnews.net www.hkoutdoors.com www.hkclubbing.com www.hkac.org.hk lonelyplanet.com of the wild. includes 6555. The hospitals, right, have 24-hour acci- 24-hour 6555. The hospitals, right, have dent and GATEWAY HONG KONG 物館 did Mon) and operatedbyexpats. andhighlydependableagencyowned A long-established h Bldg,8-10OnLanSt,Central; -travel.com; 1stfl,Galuxe transports pedestrians up to the Mid-Levels transports pedestriansup to theMid-Levels MTR Central) 動扶梯 the 800m-long h Admiralty;admissionfree;/en/index.php; 19CottonTree Drive, ( a zooandaviaries. Innearby of sculptures,sembly fountains, greenhouses, gardens 6am-10pm;bus12or40M) /parks/hkzbg; AlbanyRd,Central;admissionfree; ( canbespectacular.night at thetop.Theviewsinclearweatherand to therecently renovated St John’s Buildingat33GardenRd,Central, to 15minutes fromthelowerterminus behind h adultHK$22/33,child&seniorHK$8/15; .hk; one-way/return Tram best waytoget there isviathethrilling pointonHongKongIsland.The the highest should bethe From SIGHTS on getting inHongKong. aChinavisa the Directory chapter ( p477 ) forinformation .gov.hk/ehtml/hkvisas_4.htm beforehand. See should check regulations visa onwww.immd holdingotherpassports lowed 30days.Those whilevisitorsvisa, fromSouthAfricaare al- for90dayswithouta and theUSAcanstay Israel,Japan, Australia, Canada, NewZealand zens of otherEuropeanUnion (EU)countries, of of theUKforstays upto180days.Citi- areHong Kongvisas notrequired forcitizens Visas Agency Services Phoenix Concorde Travel Travel Agencies 94 to buy air tickets, getChinavisasandseektraveladvice. to buyairtickets, 1pm Sat;MTRJordan)OneofthebestplacesinHongKong 22-26 AustinAve, Tsim ShaTsui; Room1404,14thfl,Austin Tower, [email protected]; 香港公園 香港動植物公園 Other must-see destinations in Central are destinationsinCentral Other must-see The 6am-11pm; MTRAdmiralty) 7am-midnight) 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat;MTRCentral) 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, Flagstaff House Museum ofTeaFlagstaff HouseMuseum Ware inacolonialstructure builtin1846.

; AEA OGKN • Sgt GATEWAY HONGKONG••Sights ( % 山頂纜車 Central Hong Kong Zoological &BotanicalGardens Hong KongZoological ; % 2869 0690;admissionfree; , thelongest intheworld, which ;

2523 7488;admissionfree; % ( Victoria Peak Victoria ( , a funicular running every 10 , afunicularrunningevery 中環 2521 5041;www.lcsd.gov.hk/parks/hkp % Central Escalator Central ; % ; 2526 3391;www.concorde % ) yourfirst portof call 2522 0922;www.thepeak.com ( 2530 0154;www.lcsd.gov.hk % you’llfindthesplen- h Peak Tower ( 2722 7378; is a pleasant as- isapleasant 山頂 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, ( h 中環至半山自

Hong KongPark h ); at552mit’s 10am-5pm Wed- 6am-midnight; ( ( 茶具文 h 凌霄閣 terrace Peak Peak )

( 器市場 柱市集 Hong Kong.Don’tmiss of houses worshipoldest Chinese (1847)in ing wander through HongKong’spast. ing wanderthrough Wan; admissionfree; admission Wedfree; Salisbury Rd,Tsim ShaTsui; adult/child &seniorHK$10/5, 藝術博物館 including the lion’s share of HongKong’sbestmuseums, Nathan Road an impressive atollreef. other rides,theworld’slargest aquariumand theme park,complete withrollercoasters and 629) HK$185/93; OceanPark0291; www.oceanpark.com.hk; Rd;adult/child ( toys andbric-a-brac. Tothewestat 260) Here you’llalsofindbusy ational facilities,especiallyat is dotted withdecentbeaches andotherrecre- is nearby complete barstrip.More of arestaurant scene 坊 varieties and gradesof jade. Nearbyisthe MTR Yau Tei) Ma Wed free; Sha Tsui East;adult/child&seniorover 60 HK$10/5,admission 100ChathamRdSouth,Tsim9042; http://hk.history.museum; ofHistory Museum to homage totheHongKongfilmindustry, leads 沙咀海濱長廊 Omnimaxfilms. between HK$12toHK$16)showingchild andsenior called SpaceTheatre (adultHK$24toHK$32, Tsui) h Sha Tsui; adult/child&seniorHK$10/5,admissionWedfree; % and the historical paintingsandcontemporary art, Sat; MTRTsim ShaTsui) Tsim ShaTsui) nowned foritsshopping, particularlyalong ( 文武廟 香港仔 尖沙咀 in 20minutes and,tothewest, In ) by night, HongKong’sbestandmost) bynight, Start exploring Start The waterfront The southerncoastof Hong KongIsland Tsim ShaTsui East , acovered mazefilledwithcheap clothing, 1-9pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-9pmSat&Sun;MTRTsim1-9pm Mon&Wed-Fri, Sha 2721 0226; http://hk.space.museum; 10SalisburyRd,Tsim2721 0226;http://hk.space.museum; , ahuge parkandeducational amusement , with exhibition halls and a planetarium , withexhibitionhallsandaplanetarium Yau Tei Ma ; StanleyVillageRd; ; h

Hong KongSpaceMuseum ; ) is ) atthepeninsula’ssoutherntip.Re-

Kansu &Battery Sts,YauKansu Tei; Ma h % Soho , which takes visitors onafascinat- 10am-6pm Mon&Wed-Sat,to7pmSun;MTR ( Ocean Park hasscores all of thatsell stalls 10am-6pm; bus6X,73orOceanPark Citybus ; 2540 0350;124-126HollywoodRd,Sheung 彌敦道

% . Hong Kong Museum ofArt Hong KongMuseum ( ), whose ), whose h h 油蔴地 2721 0116; http://hk.art.museum; 10 2721 0116;http://hk.art.museum;

, with Chinese antiquities, , withChinese ( 香港歷史博物館 Tsim ShaTsui Promenade ( Kowloon 10am-6pm Sun-Wed & Fri, to8pm 10am-6pm Sun-Wed&Fri, 8am-6pm; bus26) ), thisarea alsoboaststhe 尖東 ( 香港海洋公園 h ), the Avenue oftheStars Lan KwaiFong ) andthe 9am-6pm; bus6,6A,6Xor from Stanley Market lonelyplanet.com Jade Market Stanley (

香港太空館 Man MoTempleMan , oneof the h Tsim ShaTsui Hong Kong ; 10am-6pm;

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GATEWAY HONG KONG ; 95 ; ) The 21 2268 2838 0762; % ; % ai ; 宏基國際賓館 2771 9266; http:// ( 2850 8899; www.hotel % ; ) This stunning 95-room % 仕德福山景酒店 ; ( ) This 163-room hotel at the 阿里山賓館 ( ) This 203-room hotel is hardly luxuri- nai ) If you can manage to book a room at ) If you can manage 香港基督教青年會 卜維廉賓館 ( ( nai 蘭桂坊酒店 ( ) Run by the Salvation Army, this 53-room place ) Run by the Salvation Army, this 2722 7822; www.stanfordhillview.com; 13-17 2868 0828; www.bishopleihtl.com.hk; 4 Robinson Rd, nais boutique hotel boasts an enviable location just above Lan Kwai Fong (thus the name). Corner rooms (ending in 09) overlook Government House and its gardens and are among the best. well-equipped spotlessly rooms in this family-run place are always willing to are clean and the multilingual owners please. http://home.hkstar.com/~alisangh; Flat A, 5th fl, Hoito Ct, http://home.hkstar.com/~alisangh; HK$280-350, d HK$320- 23 Cannon St, Causeway Bay; s Bay; 410, tr HK$390-500; MTR Causeway 7000; www.ymcahk.org.hk; 41 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; 7000; www.ymcahk.org.hk; Sha Tsui; Rd, Tsim 41 Salisbury Sha Tsui; d HK$860-1060; MTR Tsim dm HK$230, s HK$760, nais profes- with you’ll be rewarded the YMCA-run Salisbury, sional service a facilities, including excellent exercise and The 365 rooms centre. six-lane swimming pool and fitness comfortableand suites are but simple so keep your eyes on that five-star harbour view. s & d HK$3000- 263 Hollywood Rd, Central; -kf.com.hk; 4500; MTR Central; % s & d HK$1000-1600; MTR Sha Tsui; Observatory Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; Tsim eastern end of Knutsford Tce is a very good choice. It’s set back from Nathan Rd in a quiet, leafy little corner of Tsim but is close to bars and restaurants. Sha Tsui, shops of Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island or shops of the Indian ‘messes’ in Chungking Mansions metro Tsim Tsui; Sha (36–44 Nathan Rd, Tsim up- in Kowloon. For a more over Tsui) Sha choice, dining experience and greater market the There neighbourhood. out the Soho check is your oyster. world really Stanford Hillview Hotel Hotel LKF EATING head for the noodle on a budget, If you’re Booth Lodge Bishop Lei International House The Salisbury Alisan Guest House Mid-Levels; s HK$600-1040, d & tw HK$720-1210; bus 23, 40; ous but it’s just a short walk to the Zoological & Botanical Gardens and it has its own swimming pool and gym. % place has 50 positively immaculate rooms just around rooms 50 positively immaculate place has Each room has MTR station. from the Jordan the corner TV,shower, safe, telephone and fridge. boothlodge.salvation.org.hk; 11 Wing Sing Lane, Yau Ma Yau 11 Wing Sing Lane, boothlodge.salvation.org.hk; Ma Tei; HK$420-1500; MTR Yau s & d incl breakfast Tei; na and clean but excellent value, especially off- is austere season. Reception is on the 7th floor. 天

( 4pm- 2708 大嶼 Temple Temple

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; , a large , a large Hong Kong ) is the de- 10am-5.30pm; KONG •• Sleeping HONG GATEWAY ) This fabulous 1-830 830; www Lantau 園圃街雀鳥

( 2895 1015; www Tan Buddha Tan 7am-8pm; Mong Kok 7am-8pm; Mong h

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廟街夜市 ; ( % h 2366 3011; www ; ai Tian , the liveliest place , the liveliest , the largest outdoor , the largest % ; 香港濕地公園 ) This excellent series of ( . A worthwhile destina- 10am-9pm Apr-Oct, to 7pm Nov- 10am-5pm Wed-Mon) Mong Kok 香港旅館 h h ( ai 港龍酒店 ( 香港廸士尼樂園 (

), where birds are ‘aired’, preened, preened, ‘aired’, birds are ), where Ngong Ping; admission free; admission free; Ngong Ping; Temple St Night MarketTemple

Yuen Po Street Garden Bird Yuen ; Flower Market Mong Kok; Rd,

; ), Hong Kong’s largest island, is home to island, is home ), Hong Kong’s largest

Further north in Further north If time allows, consider an excursion fur- an excursion If time allows, consider 山 ever-expanding hostels and guesthouses with 120 rooms is just about the best deal on Hong Kong Island. It’s quiet and clean and most of the rooms have private phones, TVs and fridges. Rent-a-Room .wangfathostel.com.hk; Flat A2, 3rd fl, Paterson Bldg, .wangfathostel.com.hk; Flat A2, 3rd fl, Paterson s/d/tr St, Causeway Bay; dm HK$120-150, 47 Paterson bathroom HK$250/340/480; HK$340/400/500, with shared MTR Causeway Bay; Hong Kong Hostel est choice of budget accommodation is in accommodation is in budget of est choice Kowloon. SLEEPING SLEEPING rule but the great- It’s not a hard-and-fast well as cutting-edge exhibition galleries. To well as cutting-edge West Rail Shui to Tin the KCR take there, get Wai then Light Rail bus catch 705 or 706, or 967 from Admiralty station. ecological park near the mainland border with trails, viewing platforms and bird hides as 8885; www.wetlandpark.com; Wetland Park Rd, Tin Shui Wai; Tin Rd, 8885; www.wetlandpark.com; Wetland Park adult/child HK$30/15; ingly unspoiled areas and country parks, is ingly unspoiled areas Hong Kong Wetland Park congested ‘New Towns’ and some surpris- congested Buddha statue world, and in the Disneyland midnight; MTR Jordan or Yau Ma Tei) or Yau midnight; MTR Jordan 壇大佛 to Mui Wo & bus 2) Lantau ferry some fine beaches, excellent hiking trails and excellent some fine beaches, sights as the as disparate Islands or the New Territories. Islands or the New Territories. ther afield, perhaps to one of the Outlying the one of ther afield, perhaps to KCR East Rail lightful 花園 name-brand goods and knockoff CDs and CDs and goods and knockoff name-brand DVDs. in town to bargain for cheap clothes, fake clothes, fake for cheap bargain in town to famous famous Ma Tei; Jordan Rd & ManSt btwn Ming Yau Lane, Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book .rentaroomhk.com; Flat A, 2nd fl, Knight Garden, 7-8 dm HK$155-220, s/d/tr/q Sha Tsui; Hing St, Tsim Tak bathroom from from HK$360/460/710/920, with shared HK$310/370/490/615; MTR Jordan; bought and sold. tion in the New Territories, a mixed bag of bag of a mixed tion in the New Territories, .hongkongdisneyland.com; adult/child Mon-Fri.hongkongdisneyland.com; adult/child HK$295/210, Sat & Sun HK$350/250; Mar; MTR Disneyland Resort) GATEWAY HONG KONG International Airport inparticularis easily Gu to Gu inHong Kong–ifyoutravelless thanthose but fares willbecheaper still–atleast 50% when andwhomyoufly,lengthof etc, stay There are alsocheaper deals,dependingon Chóngqìng (HK$2400)andGuìlín(HK$1480). Chéngd you shouldaddaboutHK$480return), are andfuelsurchargeexcluding tax (forwhich China’s Southwest.Sampleround-trip fares, International major Airportwithevery cityin adaylinksHongKong At leastoneflight Air west directly isbyairplane. Kong, theonlywaytoreach China’sSouth- bybus,trainandferry fromHong well served While neighbouring Gu GETTING THERE&AWAY Too Café Lin HeungTea House Yung Kee Deer Spring IndianFood Vegetarian Branto Pure 96 thali, dishes. Ordera you wanttotrySouthIndianvegetarian Indianclubis where toheadif This cheapandcheerful h 8171; 1stfl,9LockRd,Tsim ShaTsui; dishesHK$30-59; in theterritory. dishes fromaroundtheworldandoneofbestbuffets preparing designed foodhallhasahalf-dozenkitchens h lunch/dinner Mon-SatHK$258/358,SunHK$298/398; Rd,Admiralty;buffetKong, Pacific Place,Supreme Court (HK$280) intown. duck Peking someofthecrispiest restaurant andserves Chinese is probablyHongKong’smostfamousNorthern h Lyton Bldg,42ModyRd,Tsim ShaTsui; mainsHK$60-320; dim sumisexcellent. goose hasbeenthetalkoftownsince1942,andits Cantonese restaurant inHongKong. Yung roast Kee’s Central) Thisinstitutionisprobablythemostfamous lington St;mainsHK$78-180; from trolleys. ing andnoshing–fortheauthenticdimsumserved familieskibitz- old menreading thenewspaper,extended avisitforthetableauitoffers visitors definitely worth – 11pm; MTRCentral)Thisold-styleCantoneserestaurant is 160-164 WellingtonSt,Central;mealsHK$125; pancakes) withdippingsauces. pancakes) ǎ 6.30am-1am; MTRAdmiralty)Thisbeautifully 11.30am-3pm &6-11pm;MTRTsim ShaTsui) This 11am-3pm &6-11pm;MTRTsim ShaTsui; asteeltrayof ngd AEA OGKN • GtigTee&Aa GATEWAY There &Away HONGKONG••Getting ǎ ngzh ( ū ō ( % (HK$2400),K ng province. Sh 鏞記酒家 ( 鹿鳴春飯店 ō 2820 8571; 7th fl, Island Shangri-La Hong 2820 8571;7thfl,IslandShangri-La u orSh idlis ( (soft rice cakes) and cakes) rice (soft ; 蓮香樓 ē % nzhèn over theborderin h 2522 1624;32-40Wel- ; ū ǎ % ē ngd nmíng (HK$2100), nzhèn’s Huangtian 11am-11.30pm; MTR ; % 2366 4012;1stfl, ō ng province is 2544 4556; ( % dosas h v 2366 6am- ) (rice

a dozentimesperday;thejourneytakes 1¾ between Central andTsim Central between Sha Tsui. It’sstill the 国旅行社 (CTS; Sha Tin; fromChina Travel Service inHungHom,KowloonTongandstations Tickets canbebooked inadvanceatKCR hours andcostspassengers fromHK$180. .kcrc.com) cost Y150. Its airportis36kmwestof will thecity;ataxi Sh minutes toLoWu(1st/2ndclassHK$66/33); andrideitfor40 atHungHomstation Rail East Railway’s board theKowloon–Canton Reaching Sh Train 6677, 22610176;www.eebus.com) 2472; http://ctsbus.hkcts.com) include These where totheSouthwest. youcanboardflights HK$100) andSh toGu offer busservices transportcompaniesinHongKong Several Bus Southwest. tojustabout everywhereflights inChina’s reached bybusfromHongKongandhas the territory. lesselsewhere in ditional 200m. It’sslightly for thefirst ad- 2km and HK$1.40forevery Hong KongIsland andinKowloonisHK$15 late 2006itisnolonger very convenient. Pier 7of theoutlyingislandsferry terminal in deck), buthaving moved toanewhomeat the former(HK$1.70/2.20onlower/upper .hk) opposite ). (see lines,including theAirportExpress on seven 12.30amand1amdaily sometime between twoto10minutesevery fromaround6amto with astored-value Octopuscard).Trainsrun lessifpurchased HK$4 toHK$26(slightly www.mtr.com.hk) is viathe The easiestwaytoget aroundHongKong GETTING AROUND 7888) land Chinaisabreeze fromHongKong.Just The The ē Hong Kong taxis areHong Kongtaxis abargain. Flagfall on wasonceacheap andeasywaytocross nzhèn isacoupleof hundred metres away. Intercity Passenger Services Hotline Passenger Services Intercity . tr Ferry Star Kowloon–Guangzhou express train Kowloon–Guangzhou express departsfromtheHungHomstation ) agents; orover thephonethrough MTR ē nzhèn over theborderinmain- metrosystem. Tickets cost

CTS Express Coach Express CTS (Mass Transit Railway; TransitRailway; (Mass ( % ē nzhèn airport(HK$110), 2366 2576;www.starferry.com and ǎ . ngzh Eternal East Eternal lonelyplanet.com ( % ō u (HK$80to % 2365 0118,2261 2881 8888; ( ( % %

(www 2947 3412 中 GATEWAY HONG KONG 97 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © A taxi from the airport to Tsim Sha Tsui/ Sha A taxi the airport to Tsim from are connected to the airport by bus. Buses by bus. to the airport connected are serve A12 (HK$45) and A11 (HK$40) major on Hong Kong and guesthousehotel areas the A21 (HK$33) doesIsland, and similar Buses in Kowloon. run every 10 to 30 areas 6am to between from about minutes midnight ‘N’ busesand 1am; the follow the same routes that. after Central costs around HK$270/340. trains trains 2881 8888; www.mtr.com.hk) 2881 8888; KONG •• Getting HONG Around GATEWAY %

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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. Kowloon, the New Territories and Lantau Kowloon, the New Territories Island (HK$60) en route; the full trip takes takes the full trip en route; Island (HK$60) 24 minutes. station (HK$90) in Jordan and at Tsing Yi Yi station at Tsing in Jordan and (HK$90) depart from Hong Kong stationdepart from (HK$100) in Central 6am from about every 12 minutes daily, calling at Kowloon 1am to just before To/From the Airport the Airport To/From Airport Express lonelyplanet.com