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Orest LazarowichPresents Looking Backward but Moving Forward A Continuing Series focused on the Repair and Restoration of your old Car and Truck.

Steering Linkage Part 1 On the solid axle the movement of one wheel is dependent on the movement of the other On rear wheel drive vehicles the steering wheel on the axle. The steering knuckles which linkage consists of a number of steering rods that contain the spindles are connected to the axle by connect the steering gearbox to the front wheels. a kingpin. The steering linkage and thereby the They convert the rotary motion of the steering steering knuckles are connected by a single ad- wheel into angular motion of the front wheels so justable tie rod. The connection from the steering the vehicle can be steered to its destination. The gear box Pitman arm to the steering knuckle is type of steering linkage depends on whether the through a steering rod called the drag link. When front axle is solid ( I-beam) or independent front the driver turns the steering wheel the Pitman suspension (IFS). The solid axle was used on arm rotates and transfers the motion through the many early cars and trucks and is still used on drag link to the steering knuckle to turn the front many pickups and larger trucks. The vehicle wheels. weight is carried by flat springs or coil springs. The independent suspen- FRONT #! - Upper arm sion system is mounted on coil #2 - Wheel Knuckle springs and allows each of the SUSPENSION #3 - Stabilizer bar link wheels to move independently of #4 - Wheel bearing and hub the other one. On independent #5 - Rear lower arm front suspension, a steering #6 - Front lower arm knuckle support is located be- #7 - Stabilizer bar tween the upper and lower con- trol arms. The steering knuckle is

joined to the steering knuckle Magazine. support by a kingpin. On vehi- cles after the mid-1950s, ball joints connect the control arms to a steering knuckle assembly which combines the steering knuckle and support into one unit. In most North American cars the steering linkage consists of three parts. The Pitman arm transmits gear movement to the

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left end of a relay rod or center link. An idler arm fail. The flexible connections (tie rod ends) in parallel to the Pitman arm is attached to the the steering linkage can fail because of wear. frame to support the right end of the relay rod. Some vehicles use rubber bushings which be- Two short tie rods connect the relay rod to the come brittle. King pin bushings wear out as do steering knuckle arms which transmit the move- ball joints - especially the bottom one. Any bang- ment to the steering knuckles to turn the wheels. ing or thumping noise when going over potholes Ball joints between the tie rods and steering arms can be caused by worn ball joints. Steering gear allow steering movement even when the suspen- boxes do wear out over time. Most vehicles sion moves up and down over rough road sur- today are built with ‘sealed’ ball joints and tie faces. rod ends. When the factory filled grease dries out the joint wears out. You should establish some sort of maintenance schedule that includes greasing these parts, if the parts are not worn or the rubber boots around these parts are not torn. A hypodermic needle type attachment on a regular grease gun will allow you to pierce the rubber boot and pump in the grease. Do not burst the boot. Older vehicles have grease fittings to allow lubrication. Aftermarket parts will have KINGPIN ASSEMBLY Road test grease fittings when you replace original parts. GREASE NIPPLE the vehicle Power wash all the entire front suspension parts over smooth to remove the road crud NEEDLE BEARING and rough { KINGPIN road surfaces. Before you raise the front of the vehicle AXLE Roll down the on safety stands, check the steering gearbox for windows, and steering wheel free play. If the vehicle has power listen for steering, start the engine. Wheels in straight noise (clunks, ahead position. Stand outside the vehicle, dri- squeaking, ver's window down, and turn the steering wheel. WHEEL banging) that If you can move the steering wheel more than HUB comes from one to one and a half inches without moving the NEEDLE the front sus- wheels, the steering gearbox may need adjust- Magazine. }BEARING pension. A vi- ment or a rebuild. Wear safety glasses to protect GREASE NIPPLE bration on the your eyes and mechanic's gloves to protect your steering hands. Place the safety stands under the axle on wheel at speeds below 50 mph might be caused solid axle vehicles. On independent suspension by tire problems or tire balance. Tires fail be- vehicles place the stands under the control arms cause of wear or road damage. If the vehicle so the weight is on the suspension. Block the rear pulls to one side or wanders in the lane, the sus- wheels. Inspect the tires for irregular tread wear. pension parts need to be inspected for wear. Two common causes of early tire wear are im- Wheels can be bent by hitting potholes. Springs proper inflation and tire misalignment caused by can break or sag. Shock absorbers can leak and improper camber, toe-in and caster (alignment)

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adjustments. Any unusual tire wear patterns can screw-in style bushings. At the bottom outer be caused by worn or loose parts. Check the control arm, a threaded bushing and pivot pin are wheel lug nuts/bolts for tightness. Lug nuts/bolts used to adjust the caster angle. The inner bottom should be tightened with a torque wrench. control arm is attached to the frame by a cross Tighten in a star pattern alternating from the lug shaft that pivots on bushings. Rock the wheel to nut/bolt to the one that is directly across from it. check for movement at the kingpin. Check the Torque setting for steel other side. If kingpin wear is evident, replace wheels is 90-100 foot kingpins and bushings. 1 4 pounds. Recheck after 100 miles. If you heard a Remove the front wheels. Use a pry bar, grinding noise coming and check for wear at the steering knuckle pivots 3 2 from the front wheels, at the upper and lower control arms. Check for check the wheel bear- wear at the outer upper and lower pivot pins of 5 ings. A loose front wheel the control arms. If there is excessive wear at the bearing will cause un- upper or lower pivot pin, it will be difficult to set even tire wear. Spin the the camber and caster wheel alignment adjusters wheel to check for bearing roughness as it ro- to specifications. Camber is the tilting angle of tates. Push/pull on the tire to check for bearing the front wheel. If the camber is out of adjust- side movement. Bearing side movement must be ment, tire wear will be on the inside or outside minimal ( 0.001”) and max (0.005” ). Any more edge of the tire. It also causes excessive wear of than this and the bearings should be removed suspension parts. Caster is the tilting of the up- and inspected for cracks, pits and scoring. If permost point of the steering axis. If the caster bearings and bearing surfaces are okay, they can is out of adjustment, the vehicle will wander be repacked. If they are damaged, they must be and/or pull to the side. Caster has little effect on replaced. Check both sides as they are exposed tire wear. Check for wear or binding at the inner to the same road conditions. If ball joints, king- control arm cross shafts. If there is minimal wear pins, bushings and tie rod ends are good, refer to at the control arm pivot points but the kingpin the wheel bearing section at the end of this arti- wear is excessive, start with replacing the king- cle. pins. Repeat this test on the other front wheel.

Kingpin Check Ball Joint Check To check for kingpin wear remove the Ball joints are flexible joints that allow the steering knuckle dust cap and the cotter key. suspension to move up and down and side to side Tighten the axle nut to remove all wheel bearing usually in a full 360-degree rotation. During the end play. Place your hands at the top and bottom road test, a banging sound coming from vehicle's of the wheel and try to rock the wheel. On a front corners is usually caused by worn ball straight axle see if there is any movement at the joints. With the safety stands under the lower steering knuckle. Check the other side. If there control arms you can check the bottom ball joint

is, the kingpins and bushings need to be re- for wear. Look for any signs of rust, a torn grease Magazine. placed. On many early type independent suspen- boot or grease leakage around the ball joint. Grab sions with the coil spring between the frame and the top and bottom of the tire, and rock the tire. the lower control arm check the kingpins for There should be little or no movement, if the joint wear at the steering knuckle and the steering is okay. Any noise or excessive movement com- knuckle support. The steering knuckle support ing from the bottom ball joint remove the wheel, attaches to the outer upper and lower control and visually inspect the bottom ball joint. Some arms. At the top outer control arm, the steering ball joints have a grease fitting that serves as a knuckle support has an eccentric bushing and a wear indicator. When the ball joint is new the pivot pin that adjusts the camber angle. The top base protrudes about 1/16 inch from the rubber inner control arm is pivoted on a cross shaft with cover. When worn the base is flush with the

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cover. To check Solid Axle With Flat Springs the top ball joint NEW WORN you have to Raise the vehicle on safety stands placed move the safety BALL STUD under the front axle and block the rear stand under the wheels. Remove the wheels. Inspect the front cross mem- BEARING spring bushings, pins and brackets (shackles) ber to put a load for wear by inserting a pry bar between the on the top ball spring and the frame and moving the bar up joint. If the bot- and down. Bushings wear at different rates, tom ball joint but noise, poor road handling (wandering), needs replacing, and tire wear, if the kingpins are okay, indi- it is easier to cate that the bushings and pins need replac- check the upper ing. Bushings can be metal or rubber and ball joint when RUBBER HOUSING usually wear down because of friction and PRESSURE SOCKET the lower control RING stress. Spray with silicone to contain rubber arm is discon- squeaks. Check the spring for broken leaves, nected. broken center bolt and sagging condition. Loose U-bolts can break the center bolt or the Check Tie Rods NEW WORN leaves. If only one leaf is broken, it can be re- WEAR INDICATOR placed. If two or more leaves are broken, the Wheels entire spring assembly should be replaced. If and tires should stay straight when you drive un- one assembly is being replaced, the other side less you turn the steering wheel. Loose tie rod should also be replaced. U-bolts should always ends will cause the steering to wander during a be replaced. Spring repairs must be fixed before road test. Front alignment will be off, and tire kingpin replacement. You must move the safety wear will be uneven. The tie rod end is a ball and stands behind the front spring rear brackets to socket. It can be the half-ball type or the full ball service the springs. The following procedure is design. With your hands at the 3 and 9 clock po- for kingpin and bushing replacement when the sitions move the tire in and out. If there is any spring assembly does not need service. The bush- play in the wheel, it could be the outer tie rod ings are driven into the steering knuckle. The ends. Remove the wheel, and examine the tie rod safety stands stay under the axle. end. If the boot is torn, road dirt has probably worn the joint. Move the steering knuckle in and This is a weekend project so order the nec- out. If the tie rod does not move, the tie rod end essary parts in advance. Have the parts 'in hand' is worn and must be replaced. Check the other before you start any work. Some vehicles with side. On single tie rod styles used with straight wood spoke wheels do not have front wheel axles replace the tie rod ends and adjust the drag brakes so there is no brake drum (1928 ACME link. On independent suspension there are two tie truck). You remove the wheel hub. On vehicles rods with adjustable tie rod ends. Check the outer using front brakes back off the brake adjustment tie rod ends, and then slide under the vehicle and so the drum can be removed. Remove the wheel Magazine. check for wear at the center link (where the tie bearing dust cap, cotter key and spindle nut. As rod arms attach and at the idler arm and the Pit- you pull the brake drum off, catch the outer bear- man arm connection). Grab the center link, and ing in a cloth; do not drop the bearing on the floor. move these parts up and down. Excessive up and Wheel bearings can be the ball bearing type or the down movement at any of the connections means tapered roller style. If a previous test indicated replacement of the worn parts. Make sure the Pit- wheel bearing problems, inspect the bearings, and man arm nut is tight. There should be a lock- grease or replace them and the seal before re- washer under the nut. On vehicles where a ball assembly. Wipe the spindle clean of any grease. joint is part of the Pitman arm, the Pitman arm Remove the bolts that hold the brake backing has to be replaced, if the ball joint is worn out. plate to the steering knuckle. Do not remove the

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brake hose but tie the backing plate out of the peated hammer blows, it may be necessary to way. Wrap some masking tape around one end of heat the axle or remove the axle and use a hy- the tie rod, and identify it as either the left or right draulic press to press the old kingpins out. hand end to aid in assembly. To disconnect the tie rod from the steering knuckles remove the cotter With the steering knuckle free of the axle key and the nut. If the tie rods are worn and need remove the grease fittings, and clean the steering replacing, you can use a ‘pickle’ fork and a ham- knuckle. Clamp the steering knuckle in a large mer to separate them. A ‘pickle’ fork can damage bench vise. Use a bushing driver or sockets of a good grease boot on a tie rod end that is still the correct size to drive out the old bushings. In- serviceable. Use a tie rod puller tool or back up stall the new bushings so the holes in them line one side of the steering knuckle with a hammer. up with the grease fitting openings. Clean up any With another hammer hit the steering knuckle burrs on the outside of the bushings. The new around the tie rod shaft to break the taper fit free. kingpin should slide into both bushings on its Disconnect the drag link at the steering knuckle. own weight. If the kingpin does not fit, use a Remove the cotter key and then the ball plug. reamer or a brake cylinder hone to slightly en- There is a special socket for this, but a large flat large the bushing allowable clearance (0.001” to screwdriver will also work. Remove the seat and 0.003” ). You want to push the pin in by hand. It the spring and pull the drag link off the steering should not drop out by gravity. If using a brake knuckle. Examine the ball stud; if there is a flat cylinder hone, keep it and the drill in a straight spot, it will cause the steering to bind when the line, and use WD40 to flush out the cuttings. Do wheels are turned. Replacement ball studs are not push the spinning stones all the way through available for some vehicles. because they and the spring loaded arms will get damaged. If you have no way to remove/ replace Replacing Kingpins the bushings or hone the bushings, if necessary, use the services of a machine shop. Clean the Order a kingpin kit and right and left tie axle kingpin hole with emery cloth or the hone rod ends. If available, purchase a kingpin/bush- to remove any corrosion. Hand grease the bear- ing kit that includes pre-sized bushings. Do not ing. Set the steering knuckle on the axle with the start any work until you have the replacement bearing on the bottom and the writing facing the parts ‘in hand’. Wear safety glasses. Remove the top. Check for any up and down movement of kingpin locking bolt nut, and use a punch to the steering knuckle. If there is any, install as drive the bolt out. Notice that it is tapered and many shims as possible to minimize this move- has a flat side that locks against the kingpin. ment. Lightly grease the kingpin so it will slide New bolts come with a kingpin kit. On some ve- into the steering knuckle. Keep the notch in the hicles, there is a grease cap seal at the top and kingpin lined up with the hole in the axle. Tap bottom of the steering knuckle. The cap is made the kingpin down until you can insert the locking of soft material so strike it with a sharp chisel to bolt with the flat side to the kingpin. Install the get under the lip and then remove the cap. Drive spring washer, and tighten the nut. Install a new the kingpin downwards to remove it. On others, grease fitting, and lubricate the bushings. Same

the cap is part of the kingpin, and the kingpin is service to the other side. Magazine. driven upwards to remove it from the axle. Spray some penetrating oil directly into the locking pin Replacing Tie Rod Ends hole. Allow some time for the penetrating oil to do its job. Drive the kingpin up or down using a Hold the tie rod in a vise. Measure the heavy hammer and a punch. If the kingpin distance from the end of the thread on the tie rod moves after a number of hits, apply more pene- end to the adjusting sleeve with a steel ruler. trating oil. Keep hitting and applying penetrating Write this measurement down. Loosen the tie oil until the kingpin comes out. You should be rod clamping bolt on the adjusting sleeve. Un- this lucky. If the kingpin does not move after re- screw the tie rod end. You can count the number

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of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end. Be ac- Work on each brake drum/disc separately. curate to ¼ turn. Write down the count. Doing Pry out the seal, and remove the inner bearing. this will make sure the toe-in adjustment stays Wash the bearings, and dry with compressed air. the same. Apply anti-seize compound to the Inspect the bearings. Rotate the cage assemblies threads of the new tie rod end. Screw the new tie on your fingers by hand NOT air, and look for rod end into the adjusting sleeve the exact num- any scoring, chatter marks or obvious wear pat- ber of turns that you counted. Check the thread terns. Any blue metal is because of overheating distance with the ruler. Tighten the clamp bolt. due to lack of lubrication. Clean all the old Remove/replace the other tie rod end. Brush off grease out of the hub and off the spindle. Check any rust, and paint the tie rod, tie rod ends, axle, the bearing races for similar wear and damage. steering knuckles and springs with black enamel. If there is no damage, the bearings can be Connect the tie rod to the steering knuckles. repacked with fresh wheel bearing grease and Generally the clamp bolts of the adjusting sleeve reused. Install a new seal. Any sign of damage face to the rear of the vehicle. Lubricate the tie or wear on the bearing race or the bearing and rod ends until the boot is full of grease. Paint the the bearing assembly has to be replaced. Wear back of the backing plates, and bolt them to the patterns on the old race and bearing match so to the steering knuckles. new bearings must be installed as a set. Installing only a new bearing will shorten the life of the Wheel Bearings bearing assembly. Order new bearings and the grease seals. The front wheel bearings support their share of the vehicle weight. With drum brakes a To remove the bearing’s races you will worn front wheel bearing will cause the brake find two notches inside the hub just behind the shoes to drag and the wheel bearing lubricant races, 180 degrees apart. They are in this posi- will leak past the inner brake drum seal onto the tion so you can use a hammer and a pin punch brake shoes. On disc brakes you may feel a pedal to drive out the race by alternately hitting the pulsation when applying the brakes. With the race at one notch and then the other. If you have front of the vehicle raised on safety stands re- the use of a hydraulic press and a short piece of move the wheel. There are two complete sets of pipe with a diameter just shy of the bearing race, bearings per wheel, and they should be replaced you can press the races out. Before you drive the as pairs. On tapered roller wheel bearings there race in make sure its land is clean and free of is a tapered inner and outer bearing that rides on burrs. Keep the new bearing and the race to- the inside taper of the inner and outer wheel gether as a set. The new bearing race is installed bearing race which is pressed into the brake with the taper facing up. Do not install it back- drum hub. Back off the star adjuster or adjusting ward. You can use a bearing race and seal driver bolt to move the brake shoes away from the kit or a hydraulic press to install the new races. drum which makes the drum come off easier. If Be sure the race is going in square and is tight the vehicle has front caliper brakes, remove the against the land when you are done. A hammer caliper bolts or sliding pins, and hang the caliper and brass punch can be used to drive the races out of the way with some wire. Remove the dust in. You can also take the hub to a machine shop Magazine. cap by prying it off with a large screwdriver. and let them do the removal/replacement of the Straighten the cotter pin, and remove it. Unscrew bearing races. the castle nut. Pull the brake drum/disc forward, and catch the small outer bearing and washer in Lubricate the old or new tapered roller your hand or into a shop rag. Pull the inner bear- bearings with wheel bearing grease using a ing off the spindle, and move the brake packer or by hand. When packing by hand, start drum/disc to the workbench. Wipe the spindle with about a golf ball sized mound of grease in clean of grease, and inspect for wear and/or the palm of the left hand, if you are right handed. cracks. Remove the other drum/disc and mark it Scrape the grease up into the wide open end of left or right. Place it on the workbench. the bearing until grease appears at the top of the

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bearing cone. Be sure the grease is thoroughly sembly to seat the bearing. Back off the adjusting worked into the cage and the rollers. Pack the in- nut one full turn and re-torque to ten-foot pounds side of the hub cavity with grease. Coat the in- while turning the brake drum/rotor. Back off the side of the dust cap with a light coating of grease adjusting nut ¼ turn, and install the new cotter to prevent rust caused by condensation. Lightly key. Bend one end of the cotter key over the spin- grease the bearing races. Install the inner bearing dle and the other over the adjusting nut. End play and then the grease seal with the lip facing in- measured with a dial indicator should be between ward. Apply a light coating of non-hardening 0.001” and max 0.005”. Readjust, if necessary. sealer to the outer edge of the seal, and drive the Install the dust cap. Adjust the brake shoes. In- seal inward with a seal driver or block of wood. stall the caliper. Lubricate the caliper pins, The seal should be flush with the top surface of sleeves and bushings with brake grease during the hub. Install the brake drum assembly back installation. Make sure the rotor spins freely. In- over the spindle. Install the outer bearing, washer stall the tire and wheel. Happy motoring. and adjusting nut on the spindle. Use a torque S.K. wrench, and tighten the adjusting nut to 50-foot NEXT MONTH: pounds while turning the brake drum/rotor as- Steering Linkage - Part II

Even after reading Orest’s article, are you still reluctant to tackle the steering on your car or truck? Why not give the Lares Corportation a call? (See their ad on the back cover of this issue). Lares specializes in steering - as a matter of fact, that’s all they do. They can advise you as to the parts that you need, they can supply the parts, or, if you prefer, they can do the repair or rebuild on your steering system. They can advise you the best way to remove those parts that might need repair, and the best way to send the parts to them for service. We advocate you doing repairs yourself, but if you have a problem, a special or unusual steering system, or if you just need help, call on the experts; call Lares. Magazine.

Originally printed in Skinned Knuckles magazine, and copyrighted by SK Publishing/Skinned Knuckles Magazine. Reprinting of any portion prohibited without written permission of SK Publishing, PO Box 6983, Huntington Beach, CA 92615.

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