Vol. 29 No. 3 October 2015

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

THE JAPANESE TABLE 4 CLOSE-UP : Confectionery — in Japanese 5 JAPANESE STYLE: Food Culture Pickled Japanese Apricots TASTY TRAVEL: The Edo Culture of Eating and Tochigi Shimotsukare Drinking Out — 6 MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: by Noritake Kanzaki with Edamame, Abura-age & Beef Roll-Ups with Nagaimo and Umeboshi We continue our series on sake with this third installment, — which takes a look at the customs of eating and drinking out 8 during Japan’s of the early seventeenth through KIKKOMAN TODAY: mid-nineteenth centuries, with a focus on the capital city of International Exchange of Food Culture Edo, known today as . in Milan Sake in Japanese Food Culture The Edo Culture of Eating and Drinking Out

From left: Chikuwa grilled tube-shaped fi sh cake, and simmered asari clams with , and other seasonings.

Kudari-sake to Edo Society fit into the space.” The men of old Edo were big Drinking out in Edo began It was in shops such as drinkers. During the Edo era with stand-up drinking stalls these that warm sake (kanzake) (1603-1867), the ratio of men to called yatai. These stalls served became popular, heated in a women in the city was as high accompanying dishes such as copper container called a chirori as three or four to one, and so noodles, and dengaku grilled and served in small ceramic cups this city of some one million vegetables and topped with called guinomi. Accompanying people was rather skewed by . Another dish was nishime foods included nishime and its disproportionate number of vegetables simmered in soy sauce, pre-prepared dishes of fish and single men. At the same time, the mirin and other seasonings. shellfish, including country was experiencing greater Engyo Mitamura (1870–1952), steamed fish cake, and tsukudani social and economic stability. In a pioneering researcher of Edo small fish or shellfish simmered this milieu, shops serving food popular culture, wrote that, prior in soy sauce and other seasonings. and drink proliferated rapidly in to the eighteenth century, there Edo, as social customs of eating were no casual food-and-drink Restaurant and Honzen Dining Culture and drinking out flourished. pubs such as those we now call According to Mitamura, proper Responding to demand in izakaya. By the early part of that restaurants began to appear by Edo, the sake-brewing coastal century, however, niuri-sakaya— the mid-eighteenth century. region of Nada, located in the literally, sake and simmered-dish Initially, food at such eateries Kobe-Nishinomiya area of shops—had emerged, recognizable was served on large platters. Hyogo Prefecture, became the by their façades of shoji paper Utagawa Hiroshige’s woodblock mass-production center for panels. By the latter part of the print Edo Komei Kaitei Zukushi kudari-sake—sake destined eighteenth century, these shops depicts famous early nineteenth- for Edo. Sake brewers in the were doing brisk business, and century restaurants, and reveals region gathered in Nada and set they are now considered the up breweries along the coast, origin of today’s izakaya. In his where sake could be shipped 1977 story Yami no Haguruma out directly to Edo on cargo (“Gears of darkness”), novelist ships called tarukaisen. More Shuhei Fujisawa, who wrote on than 800,000 barrels of sake Edo-era themes, describes a niuri- were shipped annually to Edo, sakaya: “The shop was not very each holding 72 liters. It is large. It surrounded a kitchen estimated that roughly fifty that projected into the shop, with percent of Edo’s population were a dirt floor extending into the sake drinkers, which works out back in an L-shape with a counter to an estimated 102 liters of sake and stools clustered around it. per person per year. Only about fifteen people could A sake-drinking competition in 1815, as depicted in the book

2 People enjoy food and drink at a niuri-sakaya shop in Edo during the early nineteenth century. Detail from the drawing Kinsei Shokunin Zukushi Ekotoba, by Keisai Kuwagata. Courtesy of Tokyo National Museum

how such dishes were served in became the custom for people pickles were served, followed by Edo teahouses. We can see live to pour out sake for each other, a full helping of rice to finish off displayed on colorful and some even enjoyed competing the meal. sawachi porcelain platters; with each other to see how much In old Edo, any opportunity simmered vegetables in great sake they could drink. Accompanying to enjoy sake was welcome. The bowls; and large wooden lacquer dishes of appetizers to be enjoyed city was a gathering place for boxes, in which kamaboko and with the sake were also developed. people from different provinces tamago-yaki rolled-egg might The mid-eighteenth century throughout the country, and for be served, then distributed into also saw the spread of the honzen the men who spoke different small individual dishes. style of dining, especially for dialects and followed different Around the same time, formal or ceremonial occasions. customs, sake helped bridge the variety of food seasonings These meals consisted of ichiju the gaps and make social increased: cookbooks from san-sai (one soup and three dishes, connections. Today, traditional that time describe the use of served with rice and pickles). customs of enjoying sake while katsuodashi dried bonito Such a meal was modest, rather viewing cherry blossoms or stock, soy sauce and mirin. than filling: the rice in a honzen fireworks, or in izakaya and Sashimi, particularly that of serving was small, and the soup restaurants, endure throughout various whitefish, was often was clear o-sumashi, intended Japan, where they continue to dipped in irizake sauce made of to stimulate the palate so as to enhance communication. boiled , sake, better appreciate the flavor of the Translated by Lynne E. Riggs and umeboshi pickled Japanese sake. Essentially, a honzen meal apricot. Sake was served in was a kind of “sake and appetizers cover ceramic tokkuri flasks and drunk course.” After plenty of sake had Edo Komei Kaitei Zukushi Sanya Yaozen by Utagawa Hiroshige. The woodblock print depicts an exclusive from small sakazuki cups; it made the rounds, and restaurant where intellectuals gathered in the nineteenth century. Courtesy of Suntory Museum of Art

Author’s profile Noritake Kanzaki was born in 1944. He is a specialist in Japanese folklore and president of the Institute for the Culture of Travel. He serves on the Council for Cultural Affairs of the Agency for Cultural Affairs, and as guest professor at the Tokyo University of Agriculture. He is chief priest at the Usa Hachiman Shrine in Okayama Prefecture. His many published works include Sake no Nihon bunka: Shitte okitai o-sake no hanashi (“Sake in Japanese culture: convenient stories to know about sake”); Shikitari no Nihon bunka (“Manners and customs of Japanese culture”); and Edo no tabi Gosuichoki, which records that one man drank 16.38 liters and a woman consumed 4.5 liters. Courtesy of Adachi Museum bunka (“The culture of travel in the Edo period”).

FOOD FORUM October 2015 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture

Various matcha confections, clockwise from left: Gelatin, roll-cake, castella cake, chocolates, Matcha Green Tea Confectionery sembei rice crackers.

Matcha green tea is fi nding a place for the usual process with regular tea itself in health-conscious diets around leaves; they are ground in a stone the world. Unlike regular tea leaves Matcha is mill into powder form. This labor- prepared by brewing in hot water, distinctively intensive process was established in matcha green tea is made of ground, the sixteenth century, when the tea powdered leaves whose nutrients refreshing. ceremony matured. remain intact. Matcha is characterized In Japan in the mid-1990s, by a deep green color and gentle matcha ice cream triggered the aroma; it is distinctively refreshing popularity of confections prepared with a slightly bitter and rich fl avor. only at the traditional Japanese tea with matcha; these were followed Outside Japan, matcha is often used ceremony. To make matcha, tea leaf by countless variations of new in drinks, such as lattes. In Japan, it veins and stems are discarded and only matcha-infused sweets. In Japan, appears as an ingredient in various the leaves are ground into powder, matcha is now a standard fl avor in types of confectionery, both Western which is then dissolved in hot water chocolates and Western-style baked and Japanese. before serving. The type of tea leaf goods, as well as in traditional Matcha was originally served used to produce matcha differs from Japanese confectionery like yokan regular tea, and is also cultivated and (sweet bean jelly), rice crackers and processed differently. To discourage manju (buns stuffed with sweet the over-production of catechin—the bean paste). Matcha confectionery element that imparts the component prepared by Japanese tea shops is of bitterness—and to maintain a high also quite popular these days, and level of theanine, which supplies the include delicious matcha-based element of , tea plants are sweets like parfaits, gelatins and shaded with black cheesecloth about cakes; it is not uncommon to see 20 days before picking the leaves, in matcha soft ice cream sold outside order to screen the plants from intense their storefronts. Customers enjoy sunlight. Matcha leaves are carefully the slight bitterness of the matcha Matcha soft ice cream and handpicked, steamed and dried. The as a contrast to the delicate matcha powder leaves are not kneaded, which is sweetness of the confectionery. 4 JAPANESE STYLE Perspectives on

Umeboshi Pickled Japanese Apricots

Umeboshi are prepared by a pickle to be eaten with a green Japanese apricots in salt for two bowl of rice. Umeboshi to four weeks, then drying them in the are indispensable to sun and preserving them with red Japanese cuisine. They (perilla) leaves in umezu, the were first mentioned in liquid by-product of the first pickling tenth-century records as process. There are many varieties of being enjoyed by the umeboshi, ranging from large and soft aristocracy. Commoners to small and crunchy. Sour red were not able to enjoy this umeboshi are typically placed in the delicacy until much later center of rice balls, or served as when, in the sixteenth century, Japanese apricots Umeboshi with red perilla were more widely cultivated. Today, umeboshi are fatigue or exhaustion. Umeboshi are enjoyed by most Japanese, and some also used as seasoning, such as even make them at home. Umeboshi simmering them with sardines or have numerous benefits, including straining them for salad dressing. antibacterial and preservative qualities. Umeboshi have a long shelf life: they They are typically placed in are prepared only once a year around lunch boxes, for example, to prevent mid-June, when the apricots are rice from spoiling, and their high citric harvested, and people enjoy eating Umeboshi in bento acid content is known to counter them all year around.

TASTY TRAVEL Tochigi Shimotsukare

Shimotsukare is a traditional dish served in the northern part of Japan’s Kanto region, particularly Tochigi in Tochigi Prefecture, to celebrate the day of Hatsu- uma. Hatsu-uma refers to the fi rst Day of the Horse in February, which celebrates the legendary deity Inari. On this day, people pray for a good harvest, a thriving business, or the well-being of their family. Shimotsukare is presented as an offering to Inari, and then consumed at home. Although its ingredients may vary, the dish is generally prepared by simmering the head of a salted, preserved salmon together with , carrots, soybeans, abura-age thin sheets of deep-fried tofu, and sake lees. Using a particular tool called an onioroshi, the daikon and carrots are coarsely grated, which allows the vegetables to retain water and so preserve their natural fl avors. Shimotsukare and onioroshi grater

FOOD FORUM October 2015 5 This recipe is vegetarian-friendly. Abura-age is used throughout RICE WITH EDAMAME, Japanese cuisine in place of meat or fi sh to create a savory rich ABURA-AGE & KOMBU . While kombu is essential in making dashi soup stock, it can also be enjoyed in many other ways, as shown here.

Lightly dampen kombu with water, then cut into thin shreds 2-2.5 cm / 1 in. long 1and 1-2 mm / .07 in. wide with kitchen shears. Place kombu in soft mineral water; allow to soak for at least 3 hours. 2Both the kombu shreds and this soaking water (kombu water) will be used in Step 4.

Wash rice 30 minutes before cooking and drain in a colander. Edamame 3 Serves 3 Put the washed rice, kombu water, soy sauce, salt and sake in a small (about 407 kcal Protein 9.0 g Fat 4.0 g (per person) 418-20 cm / 7-8 in. diameter), deep pot with a heavy bottom**. Mix gently, then spread kombu shreds, edamame and abura-age strips on top of the rice. Kombu water • 10 g / .35 oz. kombu for dashi stock Cover with a lid and cook over lower-medium heat. When steam coming out from • 1000 ml / 4 C soft mineral water 5the pot has almost ceased, turn off heat. Allow to sit for 20 minutes. • 1 1/2 C japonica rice • 400 ml / 1 2/3 C + 2-4 T* kombu Remove lid and gently mix the rice with all the ingredients. Serve garnished with water chopped walnuts, if desired. • 1 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce 6 • 1/2 t salt • 1 T sake • 1/4 of the kombu shreds, after * Add an extra 2-4 T water, depending on how dry the rice is. making kombu water ** A rice cooker may be used. • 50 fresh shelled edamame, about 1/4-1/3 C Note: Kombu water may be kept in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Versatile and full of umami, kombu • 1/2 sheet of thin abura-age deep- water may also be used as a soup stock base. Drained shredded kombu can be mixed with olive oil, fried tofu, cut in half horizontally, then and/or soy sauce to make a delicious sauce base or dressing for many dishes. cut into thin strips Kikkoman wishes to specially thank Mr. Kiyomitsu Kitajo of kombu wholesaler Tenma Osaka Kombu for the • Walnuts, roughly chopped for kombu water recipe. garnish (optional) Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto

1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml

6 Vegetables wrapped in beef is a popular dish BEEF ROLL-UPS WITH to make at home. Other tasty fi llings include NAGAIMO AND UMEBOSHI asparagus, Japanese long onion, gobo (burdock root), carrot and green beans.

1Cut nagaimo into 8 sticks, each roughly 10 cm / 4 in. long and 1 cm / 0.4 inch wide. Remove the pits from the umeboshi. Mince the umeboshi and put into a small bowl. 2Add 1 T mirin and smooth to make a paste. Lay out one beef slice on a cutting board. Lightly 3spread a small amount of the umeboshi paste on Nagaimo top of the slice, place 2 shiso leaves atop the paste, then place a stick of nagaimo on the side nearest you. Serves 4 Roll up the beef (see photos); repeat to make a total of 279 kcal Protein 18.6 g Fat 12.0 g (per person) 8 rolls. • 120 g / 4 oz. nagaimo Chinese yam, Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan over medium heat; add the beef rolls with rolled ends peeled* facing down. Cook until golden brown, while shaking the pan. • 2 large umeboshi, pickled Japanese 4 apricots • 1 T Kikkoman Manjo Mirin Add sake to the pan. Cover with a lid and simmer for 5 minutes. • 8 thin slices of beef, 5 each 40 g / 1.6 oz. • 16 leaves of shiso (perilla leaf)** Add the seasoning ingredients and simmer again uncovered until the liquid has reduced • 1 T vegetable oil • 3 T sake 6and glazed, shaking the pan so that the liquid evenly coats the rolls. Seasoning Cut the beef rolls into bite sizes to serve. • 3 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce • 3 T Kikkoman Manjo Mirin 7 • 2 t granulated sugar * If nagaimo is not available, use potato. ** If shiso is unavailable, substitute egoma (wild sesame leaf). Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation

FOOD FORUM October 2015 7 International Exchange of Food Culture in Milan

From left: Suimono clear soup with whitefi sh and a garnish of skillfully cut vegetables; An accompaniment to aperitifs, hassun appetizers evoke Participants enjoy -ryori at the Japan Salone. Japan’s four seasons.

In Milan this July 12-13, Kikkoman held a special event chefs. With a focus on four themes—Japanese cuisine in cooperation with the Kyoto Prefectural government hereafter; Japanese cuisine and Italy; The traditions and at the Japan Salone, the satellite pavilion of the Expo succession secrets of Kyoto cuisine; and Tradition and Milano 2015 Japanese Pavilion. Centering on the potential of washoku—the nine chefs gave talks and theme “Heart of Japanese Cuisine,” nine prominent demonstrated cutting techniques. Participants were Japanese chefs introduced washoku Japanese cuisine also able to experience the actual plating of Japanese as part of Kikkoman’s washoku-related exhibitions food and sample kaiseki-ryori Japanese haute cuisine. and workshops, serving up Japanese food as a way of During these tastings, attendees were surprised and introducing Japan’s food culture to both food experts delighted with the delicious and authentic washoku. and to those living in and outside Italy. These various Kikkoman also invited European food experts to washoku events also provided the opportunity for a attend a special session on kaiseki-ryori, offering a rare deeper understanding of the Kikkoman Group’s more occasion to enjoy this authentic traditional cuisine than 30-year efforts to promote soy sauce and other prepared by the nine chefs using locally sourced Japanese foods throughout the E.U. ingredients. Some participant comments included: “I An audience of some 200 people, comprising both have never eaten such Japanese cuisine. It was like a the media and attendees from Italy and abroad, dream,” and “The explanations from the chefs helped participated in workshops organized by the washoku me understand the intentions behind their food choices, arrangements and fl avoring, which allowed me to further enjoy the foods.” For the fi rst time in its long history, this year’s Expo is focused on food and diet. Kikkoman has taken advantage of this special opportunity to demonstrate the depth and diversity of Japanese cuisine, in the hopes of raising greater awareness and interest in Japan’s unique food culture. Kikkoman will continue to promote “the international exchange of food culture” as part of its management philosophy.

* Expo Milano 2015 / Participating chefs and their restaurants (from left): Mr. Hisato Nakahigashi of Miyamasou; Mr. Yoshihiro Takahashi of Hyotei; Mr. Takuji Takahashi of Kinobu; Mr. Kunio Tokuoka of Kyoto Kitcho; Mr. Yoshihiro Murata of Kikunoi; Mr. Masahiro Kurisu of Tankuma; Mr. Shigeo Araki of Uosaburo; Mr. Motokazu Nakamura of ISSHI SOUDEN Nakamura; Mr. Naoyuki Yanagihara of the Kinsa-ryu Yanagihara School of Traditional Japanese Cuisine. Nine preeminent chefs* of Japanese cuisine

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi- Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Eda Sterner Kaneko / Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto / Contributor: Noritake Kanzaki / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: amanaimages (p. 2, p. 5)/ Image: TNM Image Archives (p. 3 top) /PIXTA (p. 4)/Kenichi Shitami (pp. 6-7) / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2015 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. www.kikkoman.com

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