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95 95 HEMISP H ERESMAGAZ I NE . COM COM · DECEMBER DECEMBER 2 011 011

roof roof palapa. palapa. favored favored by by a a growing growing class class of of new new

himself himself to to lazing lazing under under a a thatched­ be be unrecognizab l e. e. a a global global destination destination

Norway, Norway, the the vacationer vacationer has has resigned resigned according according to to plan. plan. by by Hainan will will 2020 2020

A A Beijing-based Beijing-based oil oil executive executive from from clad clad in in bamboo bamboo scaffolding. scaffolding. If If all all goes goes

"He's "He's been been freaking freaking out out all all morning." morning." villages, villages, are are dotted dotted with with cranes cranes and and

the the lifeguard lifeguard and and says, says, chuckling, chuckling, of of the the island, island, from from cities cities to to outlying outlying

vacationer vacationer overhears overhears us us joking joking about about complexes complexes abound. abound. and and great great swaths swaths

and and walk walk back back to to the the beach. beach. Another Another astounding. astounding. New New hotels hotels and and condo condo

cat-and-mouse cat-and-mouse with with him, him, we we give give up up last last year. year. but but already already the the progress progress is is

the the safety safety of of his his charges . . After After a a little little Hainan. Hainan. The The effort effort was was unveiled unveiled only only

he he more more than than makes makes up up for for in in zeal zeal for for audacious audacious plan plan to to completely completely remake remake

lacks lacks in in conventional conventional lifeguard lifeguard attire attire stone stone of of the the Chinese Chinese government's government's

khaki khaki pants pants and and sneakers. sneakers. but but what what he he well-heeled. well-heeled. It's It's an an emblem. emblem. a a corner­

us us to to return return to to shore. shore. He He is is dressed dressed in in tropical tropical getaway getaway for for the the stylish stylish and and

water's water's edge, edge, who who gestures gestures wildly wildly for for Yet Yet Sanya i sn't sn't just just another another

from from a a lifeguard lifeguard standing standing far far from from the the into into manicured manicured perfection. perfection.

before before a a whistle whistle sounds . . It It comes comes tall tall pa l ms: ms: Hainan's Hainan's wild wild beauty beauty tamed tamed

We We get get only only knee-deep, knee-deep, however. however. betel betel nut nut trees. trees. drooping drooping banyans banyans and and

sand. sand. We We head head for for the the water. water. roofs roofs and and white white towers towers peep peep over over spiky spiky

more. more. and and our our feet feet sink sink into into the the white white Vuitton. Vuitton. Bulgari Bulgari and and Zegna. Zegna. Pagoda Pagoda

island island in in the the distance. distance. A A few few steps steps past past boutiques boutiques selling selling the the likes likes of of Louis Louis

us. us. Fishing Fishing boats boats circle circle a a tiny tiny volcanic volcanic while while guests guests in in robes robes terrycloth pad pad

in in the the view view of of the the tropical tropical coast coast before before zip zip through through swanky swanky hote l l driveways driveways

the the lush lush gardens gardens like like a a river, river, and and take take palatial palatial complexes-BMWs complexes-BMWs and and Audis Audis

resort. resort. past past a a pool pool that that snakes snakes among among Ritz-Carlton Ritz-Carlton and and Sheraton Sheraton have have erected erected

through through our our minimalist. minimalist. Balinese-style Balinese-style international international hotel hotel chains chains like like St. St. Regis. Regis.

waves. waves. Still Still a a bit bit groggy, groggy, we we wander wander exclusive exclusive enclave. enclave. Yalong -where Bay-where

laugh laugh as as they they stick stick their their toes toes into into the the of of high-end high-end deve l opment. opment. In In its its most most

the the new new day, day, scamper scamper to to the the sea sea and and resorts. resorts. Sanya Sanya has has become become a a hotbed hotbed

water. water. Children. Children. silhouetted silhouetted against against water water with with only only a a smattering smattering of of

Yalong Yalong Bay, Bay, light light glittering glittering across across the the Sanya. Sanya. Once Once something something of of a a back­

mainland mainland . China. the the sun sun rises rises over over Tree Tree Resort. Resort. is is located located in in the the city city of of

an an island island at at the the southernmost southernmost tip tip of of exploring. exploring. Our Our hotel. hotel. the the Mangrove Mangrove

After After breakfast. breakfast. we we decide decide to to go go ON ON A A BALMY BALMY MORNING MORNING IN IN HAINAN, HAINAN,

AND AND DEBORAH DEBORAH JIAN JIAN LEE LEE

BY BY SUSHMA SUSHMA SUBRAMANIAN SUBRAMANIAN

senously senously audacious audacious plan. plan.

happen. happen. A A rook rook inside inside one one

the the country country to to make make it it

Hawaii-and Hawaii-and it's it's just just

the the world world needs needs a a new new

power power has has decided decided

The The emerging emerging super­

HAWAII, HAWAII, CHINA-STYLE CHINA-STYLE Eastern money, transformed by the force miles of beautiful beaches, but also restric­ Mission Hills are "very much like Dubai's," of a rising superpower's can-do spirit. To tions on swimming, owing in part to the Chu says. "You have megaprojects. You quote the government, Hainan will be fact that the tan-averse Chinese seldom build them and people will go because peo­ nothing less than the "Hawaii of the East." sunbathe or send their kids to swimming ple are curious. It's just like that in China." But first. there's work to be done. lessons, making the idea of a beach vaca­ He expects the total cost of the Mission tion somewhat foreign. Hainan is, as a Hills project to hit around $4.7 billion-and THIS ISN'T THE FIRST TIME that Hainan, whole, a place in the throes of adolescence. here's the thing: Even he isn't sure it will a Belgium-sized island of 8 million, has ''As far as natural beauty is concerned, work. "If we do all the number crunching, tried to go big. In 1988, Beijing elevated it it's there," says Wendy Wu, founder of New it's not a viable project," he says. China, to province status and declared it a "special York-based tour company Wendy Wu's after all, has a minuscule golf market. economic zone," hoping it would become China. ''As far as its tourism industry, they But Mission Hills mirrors the an export hub like . Tax breaks have a ways to go, but it will happen. Even larger leap of faith the government and and other incentives failed to launch the Hawaii didn't become Hawaii overnight." investors are taking on Hainan. This hope would-be industrial center; however, that is the driving force behind the island's didn't deter a slew of real estate speculators FOR ALL THE GOVERNMENT'S talk of the construction race to the sky. "There's a from snapping up land and constructing Aloha State, though, Hainan's new iden­ lot of pride in building this project," Chu new buildings in Hainan's major cities, tity remains up for grabs, with each of its says. "It's not ego pride; it's China pride. It's triggering an economic boomlet. Provincial private developments offering a different showcasing the new China to the rest of GOP jumped 41.5 percent in 1992 and 20 vision of what the island should look like. the world." percent in 1993. Then, in 1994. the real estate While most of these are of the Bali/Fiji/ Some, however, scoff at the vision put bubble burst, leaving strips of beachfront Hawaii variety, developer Ken Chu has forth by Chu. We met one expat in Bo'ao, lined with half-finished buildings. After that. Hainan's economy really deteriorated. ~~~///~ The slump seemed destined to last. But the late '9os brought hope, as waves of tourists from Russia and the main­ "THERE'S A LOT OF PRIDE IN BUILDING THIS PROJECT," land began arriving. Word had gotten SAYS ONE DEVELOPER. "IT'S NOT EGO PRIDE; IT'S around that Hainan had all the features CHINA PRIDE. IT'S SHOWCASING THE NEW CHINA of Hawaii-pristine beaches, verdant jungles, volcanic peaks, laid-back island TO THE REST OF THE WORLD." vibe-but was closer and cheaper. China ~ ~ ~ ~ courted more foreigners and relaxed the ~ I visa requirements for citizens of more than • ~ I two dozen countries. About five years ago, another model in mind: Dubai. a lazy seaside town on Hainan's eastern ~ I irl l development again began to soar. Chu-a glossy-haired mid-30s mogul coast, who likened Hainan to a teenage ~ I < Encouraged by the growth, Beijing went whose crisp shirt is unbuttoned Vegas-style girl who "doesn't know she's beautiful just all in last year and announced the Hawaii to show off a glittering chain-hails from the way she is." The woman, who declined z~ I initiative. The government paved miles of the family behind Mission Hills to be named for this article, moved here ~ ~ Hainan's roads, launched advertisements Group, owner of some of China's biggest in 2006 and fell in love with Bo'ao: its ~ ~ throughout China and a marketing cam­ golf courses. The company opened its charming country lanes perfect for bik­ ~ paign in Europe and opened the island's latest site in Haikou, Hainan's capital city, ing, its quaint Buddhist temples and the ~ first high-speed rail, a $3.3 billion project. last year: . The second nearby indigenous communities where ~ ~ So far, the plan is working: The number largest golf resort in the world, it boasts 12 villagers practice an ancient agrarian way ~ t;; of overnight tourists jumped 11.6 percent courses with more on the way (including of life. She treasures the place, and wor­ to 23 million in the first 11 months of 2010. one designed as mini golf writ large, com­ ries that in its rush to appeal to wealthy ~ compared with the same period the year plete with a replica of Beijing's National tourists, her adopted home could lose its § before. Hainan is booming anew. Stadium and a golf hole in a giant bowl of individuality. When we tell her about all <{ z l' Yet for all its recently acquired jet-set noodles), and 150 hot spring mineral baths the glitz we've seen in Sanya, she shakes u

polish, Hainan-which lies on the same inspired by different cultures' bathing ritu­ her head, convinced that decadence is ~ latitude as the Caribbean, making it China's als, allowing visitors to float in salty pools not what Western tourists want. "This ~> only tropical island-is still grappling with reminiscent of the Dead Sea, for instance, is not the Hawaii of the East," she says. ::; ~ the contradictions that come with such or steep in Chinese herbal teas. 'This is China's tropical island. I think it's :1'. 1'5 prodigious growth. There are dozens of Chu's vision for Hainan marries size wrong to say it's the 'Hawaii of.' because u ultraluxe new stores, yet haggling remains with decadence because, he explains, big­ the implication is that it can't stand on its z~ :5 prevalent, even in some hotels. There are ger is always better in China. Projects like own merits." 0 ::> TRADITIONAL VIEWS Clockwise from top left, a gem-encrusted statue of the bodhisattva Kwan-yin at Hainan's Deda Zizai Kwan-yin temple; a Sanya ~ ~ Bay boating scene; carved stones at ("End of the Earth and Corner of the Sea"); a visitor making a wish at Nanshan Temple in Sanya gj 0 ~ gu <{

96 DECEMBER 2011 • HEM ISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

98 98 COM COM . EMISPHERESMAGAZINE H • • 2011 2011 DECEMBER DECEMBER

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4: 4: Part Part Wisdom, Wisdom, Island Island

vacation. vacation. beach beach next next their their

for for pants pants khaki khaki buying buying are are SUBRAMANIAN SUBRAMANIAN

SUSHMA SUSHMA and and LEE LEE JIAN JIAN DEBORAH DEBORAH

else. else. anywhere anywhere experience experience couldn't couldn't we we

one one paradise; paradise; of of slice slice singular singular a a is is is, is, it it what what

But But . . be er er v ne may may it it fact, fact, In In Hawaii. Hawaii. not not is is

Hainan Hainan . . air ocean ocean briny briny the the smell smell can can we we and and

us us around around away away chatting chatting are are locals locals The The

. . night muggy muggy the the to to contrast contrast pleasant pleasant a a

is is ice ice mango-flavored mango-flavored The The table. table. our our to to it it

brings brings and and milk milk sed sed n conde with with it it tops tops He He

. . peaks creamy creamy forms forms slush slush the the until until paddle paddle

a a with with it it mixes mixes and and plate plate metal metal cold cold a a onto onto

puree puree fruit fruit pours pours man man A A sert: sert: . . bing chao chao

des­ specialty specialty island island an an order order and and table table a a

find find We We . . sidewalks the the onto onto ouses ouses h tea of of

out out spill spill oungers oungers l ght ght i late-n where where lights, lights,

overhanging overhanging by by brightened brightened street street bustling bustling

a a onto onto wander wander We We . . darkness the the against against

pearls pearls of of string string a a like like looking looking squid, squid, of of

search search in in water water the the in in up up line line boats boats fishing fishing

Illuminated Illuminated life. life. to to comes comes Bo'ao Bo'ao night, night, At At

own." own." its its of of destination destination a a be be can can "It "It Wu. Wu.

Wendy Wendy says says " " through, shining shining start start will will

culture culture the the , , settles boom boom the the once once , , years six six

In In " be. be. to to need need it it does does Nor Nor Bali. Bali. or or Hawaii Hawaii

be be never never will will island island the the , , one defining defining

the the Hainan Hainan of of vision vision their their make make to to want want

encounter encounter we we e e l peop many many while while And And

. . seeds banyan banyan and and coconut coconut s, s, peanut of of

diet diet a a on on raised raised birds birds from from made made , , chicken

Wenchang , , h s di local local orite orite v fa a a savor savor and and

restaurants restaurants roadside roadside at at eat eat We We bar. bar. up up

swim­ a a at at margaritas margaritas drink drink and and springs springs

hot hot in in soak soak We We leaves. leaves. banana banana and and orchids orchids

with with bursting bursting forest forest rain rain a a of of trails trails leafy leafy

the the hike hike We We . . surfing body body whistle-free whistle-free of of

hour hour full full a a enjoy enjoy and and lifeguard lifeguard the the from from

away away break break We We Hainan. Hainan. of of vision vision each each ence ence

experi­ to to manage manage we we STAY, STAY, OUR OUR DURING DURING

89 89 H E M I SPH E R E SMAGAZ I N E .COM .COM · DECEMBER DECEMBER 2011 2011

t he he South South Au s tralian tralian co a st st l e an an back back on on its its meaty meaty tail tail -JASON -JASON FE FE I I FER FER

charm i n g g wond e rland rland off off kan g aroo , , if if so so inclined , , can can your your hand . . So So bring bring an an apple . .

on on Kan g aroo aroo Island , , a a urge urge to to put put up up your your dukes : : A A people like . . They'll They'll eat eat out out of of

many many thin g s s to to b e e l e arn e d d bump bump into into one , , resist resist th e e center . . They ' re re friendly. friendly. They They

These These are are just just two two of of the the But But should should you you somehow somehow lingering lingering around around the the visitors visitors

you've you've g ot ot a a si g ht ht g a g . . you you g et et anywhere anywhere near near them . . seek seek out out the the tamer tamer specimens specimens

bo x ing ing gloves gloves on on it , , and and latter latter will will casually casually hop hop away away if if That ' s s why why your your best best bet bet is is to to

yourself yourself a a kan g aroo. aroo. Put Put ' roes roes abound. abound. Most Most often, often, the the will, will, necessarily . . But But it it can.) can.)

labies labies and and dart dart you across roads roads across ve ve ' bas ic ally ally and and g ot ot holiday holiday plans . . (Not (Not that that it it

and and give give it it a a deer ' s s head , , koalas koalas sleep sleep in in trees , , wal ­ a a substantial substantial crimp crimp in in your your

about about 6 6 feet , , cover cover it it i n n fur fur where where seals seals la z e e on on the the beach , , and and deliver deliver a a kick kick that ' ll ll put put

T. T. Take Take a a re x, x, shrin k k it it to to

a a kangaroo kangaroo

encountering encountering

Part1: Part1: Upon Upon

Island Island Wisdom, Wisdom,

a a plastic plastic b ottle ottle and and point point my my bow bow toward toward La La Paz. Paz.

I I sea l l the the book book in in the the forward forward hatch, hatch, take take a a swig swig of of warm warm water water from from

what's what's 4 4 miles? miles? With With the the su n n still still high high over over the the peninsula peninsula to to the the west, west,

paddle paddle back back to to the the pe n insu l a, a, and and the the nearest nearest margarita. margarita. But But then, then,

I I know know how how he he felt. felt. Suddenly Suddenly I'm I'm wishing wishing I I weren't weren't facing facing a a 4-mile 4-mile

Gazing Gazing from from my my tiny tiny c r aft aft over over to to someone's someone's luxury luxury camp camp onshore, onshore,

tall tall coo l l d r i n ks ks beside beside t h em em and and we we hated hated t hem hem a a little . " "

men men in in w h i t e e clothing clothing sat sat comfortably," comfortably," he he wrote. wrote. "We "We saw saw they they had had

as as a a yac h t t cr u ised ised b y. y. "On "On h er er awninged awninged after-deck after-deck ladies ladies and and gentle­

La La Paz. Paz. Lou n ging ging on on the the deck deck Western Western of of the the Flyer, Flyer, Steinbeck Steinbeck watched watched