DISCOVER VIP DINARICA
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Content
VIA DINARICA ...... 3 Biking trail ...... 4 Service providers on biking trail ...... 13 Hiking trail ...... 28 Service providers on hiking trail ...... 38 Peaks of the Balkans ...... 55 Peaks of the balkans montenegro service providers ...... 74 Peaks of the balkans kosovo service providers ...... 78 VIP DINARICA ...... 86 Biking trail ...... 87 Service providers on biking trail ...... 119 Hiking trail ...... 135 Service providers on hiking trail ...... 162
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VIA DINARICA
“Via Dinarica” brand is aiming at tourist valorization of rural mountain community of cross-border area of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Via Dinarica represents the route which goes through most attractive areas of Dinaric Alps and connects the countries of the Western Balkans. First trans-dinaric route, which is implemented by this project, connects Montenegro with Bosnia and Herzegovina and gives opportunity to visitors to get familiar with lifestyle on Via Dinarica trail through exploring the nature, history and culture of the region.
Cross-border area consists of National Park Sutjeska and municipalities Foča, Gacko and Kalinovik on BiH side and National Park Durmitor and municipalities Žabljak, Šavnik and Plužine on Montenegrin side.
Hiking and biking trails that go through mentioned Montenegrin municipalities and National Park Durmitor are described within this Guide and service providers that can be found on both trails are represented as well.
You will ride through dirt, gravel and asphalt parts of the road and will get close to the height where golden eagle masters and you will go down to the plains where you will be able to see fish in crystal clear water of the lake or river.
You will pass many bridges over the rivers and canyon rocks, you will go over bridges that connect the shores of peaceful lake depths and bridges that connect people. You will get familiar with Via Dinarica trail that is itself a bridge that connects region via Montenegro.
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Biking trail
ITINERARY 1
Plužine – Boričje – Borkovidi – Dubljevidi – Bezuje – Dubrovsko – Duži – Pošdenje
Picture 1. Map
Picture 2. Route elevation profile
Route length: 49,80 km
Lowest point: 631 m
Highest point: 1550 m
Total ascent: 2119 m
Total descent: 1845 m
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Vastness of Piva mountain
Plužine – the youngest town on the Balkans
When construction of dam on hydro power plant „Piva“ was finished at the end of 1975 (it is one of the largest arch dams in the world) and accumulation of water on the river Piva was formed, inhabitants of Plužine continued their life in a new town, built along the dam. Their farms and houses in which they lived until then remained under the surface of formed Piva lake. Due to decrease of lake level and work of hydropower plant, it is possible to see the remains of former houses.
It is interesting that, due to the formation of the lake, Piva Monastery was moved from its original location – source of Piva river on which was built back in the XVI century to the hill called Sinjac, above Plužine. It was one of the most remarkable building endeavor that has lasted for 13 years and during which each stone was returned to its place, therefore 1,260 square meters of frescoes have been preserved.
Depart from Plužine will mark a slight climb to the crossroad with the main road from Nikšid, where you continue to the left, towards Šdepan Polje and downhill that lasts little more that a kilometer, you come to the bridge on Piva lake. By crossing the bridge, you will become aware of the depth of the lake, which inherited its turquoise – blue color from the river Piva and grandiosity and the height of its canyon, which is today a sleeve of the lake. Next crossroad is located immediately after the bridge, where you turn right into the tunnel and here ascent begins, which will be only the prelude to the challenge that you will face later. Soon after that tunnel, you will enter the second one, also short tunnel where you need to be careful since the crossroad is located within the tunnel, i.e. left turn towards Trsa and farther towards Durmitor. You continue your ride straight, by the road which is cut into the steep slopes above the lake. After slight ascent, short downhill takes place and then ride along the flat road, in a distance of about 1km. After seven short tunnel through which you will pass, lake will remain behind you and five kilometers from the lake more difficult ascent towards village Boričje will begin.
Turquoise blue water of Piva lake
One of prominent points that you will definitely notice, despite the effort that you invest in mastering the ascent, is small basketball court through which you will pass because the court is set just along the road. Something more than 10 kilometers from the bridge, there is another crossroad at which left turning leads to Pišče, and then towards Trsa and the heart of Durmitor. You continue right and by riding through road serpentines, you will overcome continuous ascent, thereby leaving
5 the valley in which the village of Boričje is located. After more than two kilometers from this crossroad, you come to Boričko hill. Following asphalt road, you continue the ride, but the view from this hill towards impressive surrounding will certainly give you strength ti conquer the rest of the ascent, which is one kilometer long.
Shortly afterwards, you will reach the gravel road section, about seven kilometers long, by which you continue the ride through gently waved plateau of Piva mountain. After two kilometers, gentle descent one kilometer long takes place and you will come to the place called Draškov do, where summer pasture (katun) is situated. After that, ascent 1,6 kilometer long takes place and you will overcome it with about 150 meters of heigh difference. Upon completion of the ascent, descent three kilometers long follows and you will get to 1310 meters above sea level in the village of Borkovidi, near village of Dubljevidi. After gravel road, especially poor on the last downhill section, you will reach the asphalt and turn left towards the village of Dubljevidi.
Katuns and Piva mountain
Katuns and katun way of life have been present for centuries in this region and thus predestined customs, culture and traditions of the local population. One the livestock breeding was a basis of existence of the population, and livestock fund a reflection of family's wealth. Thus, in order to maintain the livestock fund, looking for a spacious and grassy pastures that are located usually in the mountains, people formed katuns as summer seasonal livestock villages.
Although, due to modernization of people's lives, katuns have mostly become part of the past in the areas of Piva mountain, that tradition of residing in katuns still lives, where as before according to customs and organization of katun life, housewife – planinka with shepherds and other household residents reside in katun, while one family member remains at home in the countryside.
After passing through the village, you will reach the saddle (1340 meters above sea level) from where descent 3,6 kilometers long begins. Going through this section, you will have the opportunity to enjoy the view towards Piva lake and surrounding, from one of the most beautiful viewpoints on this route. After the descent, you come to the crossroad, where right branch of the road leads towards ethno village „Izlazak“ and you continue to the left towards the village of Bezuje.
Viewpoint after the village of Dubljevidi
While short easy ride through the village of Dubljevidi, prepare for the challenge of ascent which is five kilometers long. In addition, after two kilometers from the village, again riding along the gravel road starts. But as a reward for all the effort, at the end of the ascent you will come across magnificent viewpoint below the road and you will continue to ride by the edge of the canyon. After
6 the climb on Zmijski krš, descent in the length of nine kilometers will start and you will pass through the village of Dubrovsko and the descent lasts until you come to the small church in the village of Duži.
Piva sour cream
One of the products with which Piva mountain can be proud of is Piva sour cream made of sheep's milk which usually make skilled housewifes from Piva.
A supermarket can be found 1,7 kilometers from the church. From this poin, gentle ascent follows after which we continue riding by gentle downhill on a section known as Žuta greda which can be found above one of the biggest tourist attractions in Montenegro – Nevidio canyon. The descent lasts for three kilometers, it is very steep after Žuta greda across the bridge which is just above the entrance to the canyon and down to the crossroad at which you continue to the right. Following the asphalt, you pass by Veliko Prošdensko lake on the right side and then by Malo Prošdensko lake. At the crossroad in the village you continue straight on and after a few hundreds meters you come to the ethno village „Nevidio“ (which is 4,5 kilometers away from the supermarket in the village of Duži).
Nevidio canyon
The true attraction of the Montenegrin tourist map and a magnet for adventurous visitors eager unusual and not so easily accessible natural beauties is Nevidio canyon on the river Komarnica, near the villages of Komarnica and Pošdenje. Every effort invested to enjoy the unique beauty of this canyon is worth. Exceptional experience represents crawling through rocky straits, descent in sparkling waterfalls, jumping into the turquoise – blue natural pools of crystal clear water, enjoying its road and the view of the sky which can be seen in one part as a narrow line. This experience is the reward for every effort made. After numerous attempts, mountaineers from Mountain Club „Javorak“ found this experience in 1965 through Nevidio. Thus it became the last conquered canyon in Europe. 1,7 kilometers long and after the third jump, at 500-600 meters from the beginning of canyon, it is not possible to turn back, but the only option is to go forward. Passing through the canyon lasts for 3 – 3,5 h (depending on fitness).
When you come to the village of Pošdenje, after 50 kilometers of riding, we recommend to spend the night here, not only because of the need to rest, but also because of the beautiful landscape of villages and tourist activities, enjoying delicious and high quality local products and the hospitality of the hosts who will selflessly, through stories, get you familiar with all values of the village, history, traditiona and way of life.
Veliko Pošdensko lake
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ITINERARY 2
Pošćenje – Grabovica – Sedlo – Žabljak
Picture 1. Map
Picture 2 – Route elevation profile
Route length: 34,9 km
Lowest point: 1010 m
Highest point: 1915 m
Total ascent: 1067 m
Total descent: 639 m
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Meeting with Durmitor
Just a few hundreds of meters after leaving the silence and tranquility of the village of Pošdenje and ethno village „Nevidio“, you can expect a short descent to the new main road Risan – Žabljak. At this crossroad you can choose between two options in order to get to the place where you turn from the main road to the village of Grabovica. One is to choose to cross the main road and to continue downhill (old road to Žabljak) to the village of Petnjica. After 300 meters of riding turn left, while right road leads to the village and memorial park dedicated to Vuk Karadžid. As the old road cuts a few times a new road for the next three kilometers before turning to Grabovica, and the old is poor and with bad asphalt, it will perhaps be easier to opt for the second option and continue your ride from the crossroad by this new road, with the advice to be cautious due to the intense traffic and begin the ascent towards saddle Sedlo (which takes about 19 kilometers). After 2,5 km of the road, you will come to the left branching which is followed by a short descennt to the village of Grabovica, located in the valley between Ivica on the right side and Bolja on the left side.
Passing through the village of Grabovica, follow the road that leads you into the heart of Durmitor. In the village with a very small population (only 28 since the last census of 2011), you will see wonderful examples of old stone houses where no one lives longer. The village comes alive during the summer when people who live in cities spend their vacatios here. Perhaps in the tranquility and the landscape of the village you will not notice how easy is to climb towards the heart of Durmitor with constant ascents and short breaks and following descants.
Landscape of Durmitor Ring
View over Ivica peak on the right side is only an introduction to the world of the miraculous relief of Durmitor, which will be confirmed by overcoming the climb ahead and arriving at Sedlo as the highest point of this route. Fossilized sediments in the stone are in fact proof of giant tectonic changes that made Durmitor among other things famous. Moreover, they were left intriguingly in sight that each visitor in his/her imagination can visualize these movements.
After three kilometers of riding through the village, you will pass by the church, and after you leave the asphalt at about nine kilometers from the main road and continue further by gravel road, you will pass the stone school. Following the passage through a beautiful valley at which end you will enter into a grove, you can expect steep climb (about 200 m at 10,20 km from the main road). It will be a real introduction to the challenge that awaits you soon. After overcoming this ascent you will pass by the house, on the left side, which is in fact the last one in the village and here we suggest you to
9 choose a dirt road that goes through the meadow at which end you will enter the dirt road that you left in order not to go through the forest. Here (at 11,2 km from the main road) a more serious ascent towards the saddle Sedlo begins and it will last for 5,5 km. Although this will be definitely tough part, do not miss the opportunity to enjoy the landscape through which you ride, with Bolje on one side and Ranisava on the other and you are going to meet Sedlena greda. Here, as a reward, magnificent view towards Grabovica is expected, as well as refreshment at Grabovički springs where you can find fresh mountain water throughout the year.
Continuing our ride below Sedlena greda, landscape that opens in front of you will leave you indifferent. Namely, at 16,8 km of this route, you can expect easy ride and enjoying the magnificent view over Dobri do, the beginning of river Komarnica canyon and Durmitor massif which hides the highest of all peaks – Bobotov kuk (2523 m). You will pass by katun beneath grandiose Sedlena greda and continue gently downhill towards the asphalt, which is about 18,3 km from the beginning of this route and also 9 km from the end of the last section that you left behind in Grabovica.
View from Bobotov kuk peak (2523)
Upon arrival on the asphalt, continue riding by turning right, ascending with your two-wheeler for about 1,5 km. Overcoming this ascent, you will reach saddle Sedlo which is the highest point at his section and be able to enjoy one of the most beautiful views on Durmitor. On the one side there is saddle Dobri do with a mistery that intrigues to try to visualize glacier which left behind the expanse that stretches in front of you. Not only that, so many relief wealth and diversity of this region was collected here, with all the colors and shapes that justify the claim that this is one of the most complex areas of Dinarides. On the other side of the saddle you can see Pošdenska valley and again visible effect of glaciers still in an ice age which left behing a striking peak Stožina, but also Valovito, Modro and Svrablje lake, as well as Suva lokva which disappears after snowmelt.
View towards Sedlo
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One of the many striking views of rich relief of Durmitor and evidence of strong tectonic movements of the rock mass encounter in the landscape of Dobri do. It is scientifically proven that Durmitor arose by confrontation and the rise of rock mass so interesting phenomeon is that uper part of the rock massif is older than the layers they cover. On the grassy expanses of Dobri do, you can realize glacier effect, while Lojanik which rises above is an example of karst erosion whose shapes (cracks, sinkholes, bays, rocky fields and caves) are presented on Durmitor.
On the descent from Sedlo, at about 1,5 km, do not miss the opportunity to refresh yourself with cold water at Studenac spring which is directly below the road (there is no extension and signpost). Continuing further on, at about 4 kilometers from Sedlo, you will pass the foot of Stožina and then continue towards Žabljak to which you have 11 more kilometers of easy drive. On Jezera plateau, you will encounter new road Risan – Žabljak. At first you will go through it and continue by the old road by which, due to low traffic (but be careful!) you will be able to enjoy more to the view of the expanses that opens in front of you and you will see mountain Lola which you leave behind, Sinjajevina that is at your right side, Ljubišnja which is far ahead of you and giants of mountain peaks of Durmitor on your left.
Soon you will met again a new way and it will continue to Žabljak.
The end of this route is in Žabljak. Natural beauty and rarities, cultural – historical heritage and way of life of the people of this region is sufficiently strong recommendation to better get familiar with it and rest here until the next stage.
Durmitor National Park
Luxurious relief, hydrographic richness and specificity of biodiversity form unique geographical, landscape and natural aesthetic value of Durmitor. This area was declared a National Park in 1952, and in 1980 it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Covering an area of 33.400 ha, National Park Durmitor is the largest National Park in Montenegro. It spreads in the northwest part of the country and includes basic massif of Durmitor with canyons of rivers Tara, Draga and Sušica, as wll as upper parts of canyon valleys of Komarnica and Grabovica. Wealth, preciousness and uniqueness of natural, environmental and cultural values are deserving that this area is not only under national, but under double international protection. Namely, NP Durmitor was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980, while river Tara with its canyon, which is the deepest canyon in Europe (depths of up to 1300m) was included in the World’s ecological biosphere reserves by UNESCO program “Man and Biosphere” in 1977.
Grandiosity of Durmitor is reflected by numerous mountain peaks. 48 of them is high over 2000 meters, and the highest one is Bobotov kuk with 2523 meters above sea level. There are also18 lakes called “mountain eyes”, and the most visited is Black Lake. Green, grass-covered vast plateaus, moutain meadows, vast pine, beech and maple forests make this mountain landscape unique. When it comes to the flora of this mountain, be sure to have mentioned the wealth of flower plants in meadows and rocks, herbs and variety of edible mushrooms. But at the same time characteristics such as belts and colonies of pine on the slopes should not be forgotten as well as inversion of forest cover because beech forest is usually above coniferous forests. This gives a truly special color to this area.
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Black lake in the winter and peak Međed
In addition to rich flora, Durmitor is also known for its varied wildlife, from mammals, such as bear, chamois, deer, wolves and other wildlife through a variety of fish in the lakes, all the way to the large number of bird species (about 140 species) such as grouse, large golden eagle, partridge, hawk etc. The richness of cultural – historical heritage bears witness to the turbulent history of the area since the Stone Age, through still insufficiently explored archaelogical sites, through necropolis of medieval tombstones (in the place called Novakovidi), medieval monasteries and remains of towns (Pirlitor), to the history of recent times.
Medieval tombstones in Novakovidi
The real colors to landscapes provide picturesque settlements – villages and katuns, and their courageous and kind people with their way of life and creativity talk in an original way about the tradition that has been preserved. One thing is sure – Durmitor manages with its, we should admit, harsh climate with lives of all people from Durmitor.
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Service providers on biking trail
Information and contacts
Recommended accommodation facilities, restaurants, agrotourism, producers of honey and other local products of the north of Montenegro:
PLUŽINE
1. DUBLJEVID BRANIMIR
Address: village Dubljevidi
M: +382 (0) 69 592 915
Branimir with his parents and family lives at this address throughout the year, besides from May to August when they reside in katun. However, some family members live at this address even during May to August, therefore visitors are always welcome. These kind hosts have the possibility to accommodate four to five persons to whom they can offer their homemade products. Their offer of agricultural products is wide, from dairy and meat products to fruits, vegetables, juices. Housewife prepare tasty traditional dishes. Visitors can also visit their farm.
2. TOURIST HOUSEHOLD VUKOVID – ZVONO CAFFE BAR
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Adresa: Plužine
Kontakt: Rade Vukovid
M: +382 (0)69 531 319
E-mail: [email protected]
Elements of tradition of this area, multiculturality and urban heritage of the broader area that encounter in the colors of the walls of this restaurant, the sounds of Jazz nights with homemade mead which is produced by the hosts, guarantee an unique experience in this area. This household can accommodate up to 11 persons. In a relaxing atmosphere, guests can enjoy specialties that carry a special mark of the cuisine of this household. Dishes of national cuisine are served here, as well as dishes of interesting combination of organic food, traditional flavors and influences of other cuisines. Visitors can enjoy cruising Piva lake, visiting attractions of the area and jeep safari tours.
3. ZELEN KECOJEVID
Address: village Boričko brdo (Boričje)
M: +382 (0) 69 883 602
+382 (0) 69 121 072
Host lives at this address throughout year with his brother and mother, besides the period June – August, when they reside in katun which is 2 km away from the village home. Their house is located 300 meters from the crossroad for Seljkovac and Borkovide, when you turn left by gravel road from cycling trail. Visitors can taste and buy their quality dairy and meat products, and various juices from wild berries can be found in this hospitable household. This family also collects herbs (mountain tea). In addition, our host knows well the area, therefore he can organize hiking tours.
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TOURIST ORGANIZATION PLUŽINE
Address Ul. Baja Pivljanina bb, Plužine
T:+382(0)40270069
M: +382 (0)69 635 412
M: +382 (0)69 670 939
E-mail: [email protected] www.pluzine.travel
ŠAVNIK
1. RADOŠ MALOVID
Address: village of Duži
M: +382 (0) 69 434 277
House and nicely decorated farm of this household can be found near cycling trail – asphalt road in the village of Duži. This hospitably household has the opportunity to accommodate up to 10 people. Visitors of this home will enjoy pleasant company of our hosts, who often tell the story about their village lifestyle, everyday work, about their ancestors, this village... They will gladly show their house and farm, and from plums from their orchard, housewife usually makes jams and our host makes fruit brandy. Visitors can taste all domestic products and traditional dishes.
2. KRSTO PEKOVID
Address: village Dubrovsko
M: +382 (0) 69 284 700
+382 (0) 69 925 800
This kind host and his family live in this farm throughout year. In summer months, they are situated in katun, but there are couple of family members at this address as well, therefore visitors are always welcome. In this home, travelers can spend night and taste local food. Hosts are recognized
15 agricultural producers of dairy and meat products, vegetables, so visitors can try these products as well. Gues can enjoy pleasant company of our hosts, visit their farm, see their herds of cattle and facilities in which they store their products. Marko knows well the terrain, therefore he can organize hiking tours.
3. RANKO KOVIJANID
Adresa: selo Pošdenje
M: +382 (0) 69 448 596
+382 (0) 67 885 803
View towards the farm of Kovijanid family at Pošdensko lake is amazing. This hospitable family can accommodate up to five persons. Besides this, they can offer local food and dishes. In addition to dairy and meat products, as well as fruit products, it is interesting that housewife makes various delicacies from vegetables such as: beet juice, carrot jam etc. They also offer various herbs which they collect by their own. Of coruse, visitors can buy all above mentioned products.
4. NEVIDIO, Ethno village
Address: village Pošdenje
Contact: Gašo Lalovid
M: +382 (0) 69 735 103
M: +382 (0) 69 462 086
E-mail: [email protected]
www.etnoselo-nevidio.com
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Rich offer of this tourist complex, perfectly fitted in the environment, will leave no one indifferent. Tourists can spend the night in houses made of stone and wood, and accommodation capacity comprises 38 beds. In nice atmosphere of the restaurant, with a view towards village of Pošdenje and Pošdenska lake, guests can enjoy in dishes of traditional cuisine and quality dairy and other products by local producers. Important point in the offer of this complex are various types of active holiday which they offer to their guests. Among all activities, canyoning is emphasized. Besides canyoning, they offer various trips, cycling and hiking tours, rafting and jeep safari, and if the guests are interested, kind host organizes training for climbers and hikers.
5. VELJKO JANJID
Adresa: selo Grabovica
M: +382 (0) 69 887 546
The door of home of Janjid family are always open for visitors which will be served by local products. With previous annoncement of guests, they can prepare kačamak or cicvara. Dishes can be served in the shade of trees within their garden. Visitors can enjoy and listen interesting stories of their hosts about life in the village – before and now, about their activities, farm that can be visited as well. During visit to their farm, you will have the opportunity to see the tools for working in the field, pottery that was used in the past and which our host still keeps as private etnographic value, while local legends are gladly told to his grandchildren during the summer.
6. MIILORAD VILOTIJEVID
Address: village Duži
M: +382 (0) 69 438 903 (Vidosava – daughter)
+382 (0) 69 217 608 (Mila - wife)
+382 (0) 69 233 205
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Family house in which this household lives throughout the year can be found 1,5 km from cycling trail (righ turning by asphalt road, near the village school). The offer of this hospitable household is various. By announcement, hosts can prepare lunch for guests and serve kačamak, various pies, cicvara and similar traditional dishes. In addition to numerous homemade products of this household, it is very interesting that they grow buckwheat. Many dishes are made of buckwheat flour from their fields.
7. RANKO PEKOVID
Address: village Dubrovsko
M: +382 (0) 69 280 126
This young, kind and very talented host live in this village throughout a year with his mother and brother. In this households, visitors can try quality homemade products. In addition, guests can enjoy and listen interesting stories about their life in village, and Ranko will gladly show you picturesque collection of his handicraft – gusle, kalice, souvenirs, furniture – chairs, tables, etc. Chisel is his only tool and bright spirit, creativity, eloquence will make you enjoy listening to his song and music... Ranko knows the environment very well, so he can organize hiking tours and make your visit more interesting.
8. BRANKO BOŽOVID
Address: village Dubrovsko
M: +382 (0) 69 472 641
This young and kind host lives at this address with his parents throughout all year. His family house and farm can be found near cycling trail. Here, visitors can try quality homemade products, such as milk, sour milk, sour cream, homemade bread, and they can try homemade pear brandy. This hardworking hosts will gladly show you his farm and herds of cattle and tell interesting stories about his life in this area.
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TOURIST ORGANIZATION ŠAVNIK
Address: Šavnik
T/F: +382 (0) 40 266 066
M:+382(0)69517283 www.savnik.travel
ŽABLJAK
1. SVETOZAR ŠAROVID
Address: village Virak, Žabljak
M: +382 (0)67 489 381
+382 (0)67 832 686
+382 (0)69 222 580
E-mail: [email protected]
This kind host and his family lives at this address throughout the year. In warm atmosphere of their hut and appartments, they offer accommodation services to up to 14 persons. In addition to accommodation, guests can be offered by food on the basis of quality homemade dairy products, vegetables, fruits and similar products. All tourists who visit their home can be served by these recognizable products, and they will enjoy talking with this kind host, which is also part of the tradition and every day life of this family. For all interested guests, different trips of visiting the environment as well as ski classes can be organized.
2. VUKAN KAVEDŽID
Adresa: selo Javorje, Žabljak
M: +382 (0) 69 468 888
Offer of this host comprises possibility of accommodation for 7-9 persons in house in the village of Javorje, near Žabljak. Our host lives at this address throughout a year. According to guests'
19 requirements, host can offer food on the basis of homemade products. Vukan is recognized vegetable producer (usually potato). With previous announcement, besides vegetables from his garden, host can offer quality dairy and meat products which he supplies from his neighbors. Also, you can visit the farm of this kind host.
3. BJELOBOR, hotel
Address: Tmajevci, Žabljak
Accommodation capacities of Bjelobor hotel comprises 65 beds. Their guests are of all age and they have various and interesting services provided. For food lovers, kind host provides most quality meat and dairy products from agricultural producers from nearby villages. Their guests can enjoy canyoning, rafting, hiking, skiing, visiting the village and nearby attractions, jeep safari. Visitors can rent ski equipment, and they can also play table tennis. In addition, seminars can be organized in this hotel. Years-long experience in providing tourist services resulted in more capacities and filling the offer of this host. Now, he is also owner of hotels Zlatni bor and Zelen bor.
4. ZLATNI BOR, hotel
Adresa: Zminica
In immediate vicinity, across Bjelobor hotel, Zlatni bor hotel is situated. This hotel has accommodation capacity of total 45 beds. Guests of this hotel have the possibility to choose one-day trips from the wide range of offer of this kind host. In warm atmosphere of a restaurant, which is arranged as a mix of tradition and ethno decoration, souvenirs and interesting photos, guests can enjoy tasty food and many traditional dishes such as bread under the bell, cicvara,kačamak, lamb and veil prepared in different ways, gurabije as a dessert, etc. Guests can taste homemade jams, fruit brandies, liqueurs etc...
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5. ZELEN BOR, vila
Address: Zminica
Contact: Radovan Bojovid
T: +382 (0) 52 361 535
M: +382 (0) 69 052 635
E-mail: [email protected]
In lovely landscape and silence of Zminičko lake, kind host owns small hotel for the last six years – villa in which 10 persons can be accommodated. This facility is usually used during day trips which make tourist offer of this host.
6. POLAR STAR, hotel
Address: Borje bb, Žabljak
Contact: Snežana Šibalid
M: +382 (0)67 609 444
E-mail: [email protected]
www.polarstar.me
Built in authentic mountain style, visitors of hotel are of all age, and most of them are families with children. Hotel also provides services to groups which count more than 20 tourists. In this tourist complex, 90 guests can be accommodated, and besides that hotel has 10 extra beds. Guests can enjoy different trips that hotel offers, such as: canyoning, rafting, hiking, paragliding, cycling tours, skiing and jeep safari tours. Hotel also offers spa program, for complete feeling and relaxation. In
21 hotel restaurant, guests can choose dishes from wide range of national and international specialties, and kind staff emphasize that they adapt the menu according to guests' requirements.
7. HOTEL SOA
Address: Put Nacionalni park bb, Žabljak
Contact: Matija Midovid, Igor Jovanovid
T: +382 (0) 52 360 110
M: +382 (0)69 151 152
+382 (0) 69 141 516
E-mail: [email protected]
www.hotelsoa.com
This new hotel – modern interpretation of Durmitor tradition, comprises eight rooms and 10 apartments where total number of 55 persons can be accommodated. Their guests are of all age, and usually young couples and families with children. Guests can enjoy various trips such as: canyoning, rafting, hiking, cycling tours, skiing, visiting local attractions as well as jeep safari tours, while guests can rent bicycles and skis. In hotel restaurant, guests can enjoy numerous dishes of traditional cuisine, from boiled lamb to bucketwheat pie, while on the menu various specialties of international cuisines can be found. One part of hotel is reserved for relaxation, therefore spa treatments represent perfect end of active day on the mountain.
8. JAVOR, hotel
Address: Božidara Žugida br. 8, Žabljak
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Contact: Mile Stijepovid
T: +382 (0) 52 361 337
M: +382 (0) 67 642 789
E-mail: [email protected]
www.durmitor.in
www.zabljak.net
This hotel can be found in Žabljak city center and can accommodate 25 tourists. Also, in hotel restaurant, decorated by various souvenirs and objects imbued with local tradition, guests can enjoy in rich offer of traditional dishes typical for this area and high quality products – dairy and meat products, vegetables and homemade teas made of mountain herbs. In addition to gastronomic offer, it is interesting that different trips are organized for hotel guests, such as: canyoning, rafting, cycling tours, hiking, visiting nearby attractions as well as jeep safari. Hotel organizes skiing classes and also rents bicycles to their guests, while riding lover can rent a horse.
9. GORSKE OČI, hotel
Address: ul. Božidara Žugida br. 1, Žabljak
Contact: Milanka Blagojevid
T: +382 (0) 52 361 118
T: +382 (0) 52 361 119
M: +382 (0) 67 289 209
E-mail: [email protected]
Providing pleasant stay, hotel hotel 'Gorske oči' is situated in Žabljak city center. Within 32 rooms which can accommodate total of 65 guests, hotel provides additional 20 extra beds. Hotel provides services to groups that often count 15-30 participants. Gastronomic offer is based on quality local products and they gladly meet the requirements of their guests. Therefore, in addition to proja, homemade bread and other national dishes, then products such as milk, sour milk and cheese, guests in the restaurant can order dishes based on vegetables, fish specialties etc.
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10. SKI HOTEL
Address: ul. Narodnih heroja bb, Žabljak
T: +382 (0) 52 361 088
E-mail: [email protected]
www.skihotelzabljak.com
This hotel represents a mix of modern style and traditional architecture. It represents an oasis for relaxation for all guests, and it is opened throughout the year and can accommodate 45 tourists. Hotel guests can enjoy trips and activities such as rafting, jeep safari etc and for all interested guests, they organize skiing classes. Hotel also offers rent a car services. Besides, hotel offer is unique in this area because they have swimming pool, sauna and gym. Guests can enjoy quality homemade products provided from local producers and tasty traditional dishes that can be found on the menu.
11. MB Hotel
Address: ul. Tripka Džakovida bb, Žabljak
Contact: Vukomir Marjanovid
T: +382 (0)52 361 601
M: +382 (0) 69 085 801
E-mail: [email protected]
This hotel is open throughout a year for all the visitors and can accommodate up to 44 guests. Their guests are usually older than 25 and families with children are most often guests. Hotel accommodates also groups of people, more than 20 participants. In hotel restaurant, you can try
24 tasty dishes of traditional cuisine, but kind staff emphasizes that they meet guests' requirements, therefore you can order some international dishes. Hotel offers numeorus activities, therefore their guests can enjoy canyoning, rafting, hiking, cycling tours, visiting attractions, jeep safari etc.
12. HOTEL ENIGMA
Address: Tmajevci bb, Žabljak
Contac: Ružica Radojevid
M: +382 (0) 69 037 854
E-mail: [email protected]
www.hotelenigma.me
In nice ambiance of the restaurant, which is decorated in ethno style, guests will have the opportunity to enjoy dishes that were prepared on Durmitor for decades, and today represent specialties such as priganice, sweet pies, kačamak, cicvara etc. However, this restaurant also offers many interesting dishes (for example, steak with forest fruits), which means that this restaurant will meet all guests' requirements. In cooperation with local tour operators, they organize many trips, so guests can try rafting, hiking, cycling tours, visiting nearby attractions, jeep safari, skiing etc.
13. KATUN, resting place
Address: Pošdenski katun
Contact: Neđeljko Karadžid
M: +382 (0) 69 944 532
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+382 (0) 67 311 706
Visitors can rest at the place of this kind hosts during their hiking expeditions and enjoyment in Durmitor massif. This facility captures life in katun which is part of tradition of Durmitor people. Visiting this place, together with unique atmosphere, interesting stories of the host and quality food, represents special experience for most tourists. Here, you can refresh and enjoy quality homemade products and traditional food. Restaurant part can provide seats for 30 guests. Also, visitos can spend the night here, or even camp at hosts' estate. For all interested guests, host can organize hiking tours.
14. RESTAURANT 'JAVOROVAČA'
Address: Javorovača bb, Žabljak
Contact: Vuk Popovid
M: +382 (0) 67 618 618
E-mail: [email protected]
Restaurant ’Javorovača’ can be found at the exit from Žabljak towards Savin kuk. Restaurant with warm home atmosphere is recognized as a place where people can enjoy tasty dishes of traditional cuisine and homemade juices and refreshments. You can enjoy attractive environment from large terrace, and in wintertime you can see ski slopes where many ski lovers enjoy. Ski classes are often organized for interested guests, while they have capacity for teambuilding activities as well. Restaurant offers rafting and hiking tours, while they have enough vehicles for visiting famous Durmitor ring.
15. VANJA KRGOVID ŠAROVID
Adresa: Virak
M: +382 (0) 69 49 46 01
E-mail: [email protected]
Household of the Krgovid family offers accommodation with breakfast included, including homemade gastronomic speciealties. Kind hosts organize visits to nearby private agricultural estates. Here, visitors can get familiar with their lifestyle, taste and buy their homemade products.
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PORTALS
These facilities are not on cycling or hiking trail, but their offer deserves to be proposed as rest areas and palces where tourists have the possibility to actively participate in many excursions and get familiar with the charms of this place.
PLUŽINE
1. IZLAZAK, Ethno village
Address: Rudinice bb, Plužine
Contact: Novica Gogid
M: +382 (0) 69 476 277
This tourist complex can be found at opposite side of Piva canyon in relation to the trail and is 8 km away from the village of Bezuje (turn down left on R615, upper right road goes to the village of Dubljevidi). Tourist services of this facility are available throughout the year. Accommodation capacity of this tourist complex comprises 36 beds (bungalows, huts and appartments). Tourist can enjoy magnificent view towards Piva lake canyon, excellent food and quality local products. Wide range of services comprises one-day and multi-days tours, therefore visitors can enjoy canyoning, rafting, cycling tours, hiking, kayaking, jeep safari, visiting Durmitor Ring, visiting local attractions such as memorial center „Dola“, Piva monastery, Zagrađe monastery, Piva lake cruising etc.
2. MILOGORA, Eco-village
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Address: village Trsa
Contact: Dragan Jokanovid
M: +382 (0) 68 522 410
+382 (0) 69 537 541
E-mail: [email protected]
This eco-village can be found in the village of Trsa, on Durmitor Ring. It is 10 km away from cycling trail Plužine – Pošdenje (from crossroad in the tunnel near Piva lake). Kind host is into catering for years, therefore his offer comprises numerous services. Tourists can relax in nice atmosphere and refresh with homemade products and traditional dishes, while 'Snježnica' i.e. sheep milk in snow represents the brand of this restaurant. Host offers accommodation services for up to 12 persons, and capacity expansion is also planned. Also, host organizes horse riding tours for up to 12 persons. It is interesting that host organizes horsback riding classes. In addition, here you can camp, rent jeeps, bicycles as well as horses and enjoy picturesque landscapes.
Via Dinarica
Hiking trail
1. ITINERARY 1
Trnovačko lake – Trnovački Durmitor – Carev Do - Presjeka (1826) – Plan - Čair (Dalasani) – Mratinje – HE Piva
Difficulty: demanding
Trail length: 18,50 km
Time: 8:00 h
UTM waypoints:
34T 4792898 314888 – Trnovačko lake
34T 4792099 316341 – saddle Trnovački Durmitor
34T 4791912 316564 – Carev Do
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34T 4791127 317711 – saddle Presjeka
34T 4792523 319802 – Plan
34T 4793177 320270 – Čair (Dalasani)
34T 4792002 322635 – Mratinjje
34T 4793497 324916 – HE Piva dam
Trnovačko lake is the heart-shaped lake of impressive beauty, surrounded by dense coniferous forest and cliffs of mountains Maglid, Trnovački Durmitor and Volujak and represens a true jewel of Montenegrin untouched nature. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful glacial lakes of Montenegro. It is located at 1517 meters above sea level and due to inabilitiy to visit it by some means of transport, it is visited only by true nature lovers.
View towards Trnovačko lake from surrounding peaks
First route of hiking Via Dinarica trail begins at the lake, where we follow the left direction to Carev Do and Mratinje. After 3,2 kilometers we come to the saddle Trnovački Durmitor (2148 masl) and saddle Šarena Lastva, which represents additional way towards Maglid peak is 600 meters away. We continue by turning right. After 1,1 km we come to Carev Do (2042 masl) where we follow main direction to the right. After 1,7 km we arrive at saddle Presjeka (1826 masl) where we follow right direction towards Mratinje and HE Piva. We walk for 3,2 km and come to the crossroad at location Plan where we follow the right direction.
After 1,3 km we come to the place called Čair (Dalasani) and turn to the left as shown on the signpost. All the time we are moving by gravel road. After 2,7 km we come to Mratinje where we continue to the right. We go straight for 5,2 km when we come to the asphalt road and a dam of HE Piva where we complete the first stage of hiking Via Dinarica.
Hydropower plant Piva has blocked river Piva canyon in 1975. The dam is 220 high and it is one of the largest dams in Europe. The dam has created Piva lake, which flooded the old position of Piva Monastery from the XVI century, therefore monastery was moved to another location. Besides the monastery, due to construction of hydropower plant, the former settlement of Plužine was flooded and today's settlement was built after construction the dam.
2. ITINERARY 2
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HE Piva – Badnjina – Babidi – Jerinidi – Šaridi (Vračari) – Kneževidi (Vučja Selišta) – Kneževidi (kula Kneževida) – Lijepi Pod – Nedajno (škola) – viewpoint Nedajno – Sušičko lake
Difficulty: demanding
Trail length: 30, 6 km
Time: 11:20 h
UTM waypoints:
34T 4793239 325014 – HE Piva
34T 4793541 326234 – Badnjina
34T 4793870 327057 – Babidi (north from school)
34T 4793910 329572 – I crossroad Jerinidi
34T 4793718 330117 – II crossroad Jerinidi
34T 4792253 329590 – Šaridi (Vračari)
34T 4789750 332694 – Kneževidi (Vučja Selišta)
34T 4790289 333070 – Kneževidi (tower Kneževidi)
34T 4788889 334508 – I crossroad Lijepi Pod
34T 4788414 334607 – II crossroad Lijepi Pod
34T 4785364 336172 – Nedajno (north from school)
34T 4784824 336709 – viewpoint Nedajno
34T 4783267 337442 – Sušičko lake
We are located in the eastern part of the dam of hydropower plant Piva where we turn right in the direction of Kneževidi, via site Šaridi. After 2,8 km we come to the place called Badnjina at 1209 masl where signpost indicates that we need to turn right. We follow the direction for 1,5 km to the crossroad in Babidi. One hundred meters north from the cemetery in Babidi we find signalization which indicates that mountain lodge Sušičko lake, i.e. the goal of today's route is 25,9 km away.
After 3,4 km we come to the crossroad at which we turn left towards Lijepi Pod. After 300 meters there is one more crossroad in Jerinidi where we turn right. All the time we are walking by gravel road and the entire trail is marked by standard markings and signalization. After 2,2 kilometers we come to the crossroad in the place called Šaridi (Vračari) at 1400 masl where we follow the right direction for Lijepi Pod and Sušičko lake. After 5,4 km we come to Kneževidi (Vučja Selišta) at 1458 masl where we continue right and follow the information displayed on signalization signpost.
After 900 meters we come to the next crossroad in Kneževidi (near house/tower Kneževidi) where we see the next signpost which directs us on the road to the left. After 2,3 km we come to location Lijepi
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Pod (1425 masl) where we follow the right direction. After 3,9 km we come to the first crossroad in Nedajno (1425 masl) which is located north of the school. Signalization boards indicate that we should turn right in the direction of Sušičko and Black lake. After 1,2 km we come to the viewpoint Nedajno (1496 masl) from which you can enjoy fantastic view towards Sušica canyon. We continue by the right and Sušičko lake is 5,5 km away.
After above mentioned 5,5 km we come to Sušičko lake near which mountain lodge can be found where you can spend time or stay over night. By arriving at this side, the second route with a length of 30,6 km is completed.
Sušičko lake is located at an altitude of 1140 meters and it is surrounded by dense black pine forest and high cliffs. This lake is one of the most beautiful jewels of Sušica canyon and one of several periodic lakes of Durmitor. The lake is 450 meters long, 250 meters wide and nearly 5 meters deep. The full splendor of the lake can be seen in the spring, when the watercourse of the river Sušica is the strongest and when the lake gets the maximum amount of water. Clear water of melted snows build this lake every spring, while during summer months it completely dries up, as well as the river that feeds it. Grassy field remains at the site of the lake.
Sušičko lake
3. ITINERARY 3
Sušičko lake – waterfall Skakala – mountain lodge Škrka – Veliko Škrčko lake – viewpoint Botun – Međeđi do – saddle Međeđe Ždrijelo – Gornja Ališnica – Donja Ališnica – reserve Potoci – Golubinje – Bosača – Barno lake – Ivan Do
Difficulty: demanding
Trail length: 22,3 km
Time: 9:50 h
UTM waypoints:
34T 4783187 337445 – Sušičko lake (plateau near drinking fountain)
34T 4782424 337443 – drinking fountain at the entrance of the forest
34T 4777984 336788 – waterfall Skakala
34T 4777866 337843 – mountain lodge Škrka
34T 4777843 338032 – Veliko Škrčko lake
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34T 4778173 338189 – plateau northwest from Veliko Škrčko lake
34T 4778720 337782 – Botun
34T 4779670 338306 – Međeđi do
34T 4779007 339249 – saddle Međeđe Ždrijelo
34T 4778931 339875 – Gornja Ališnica
34T 4779566 341869 – Donja Ališnica
34T 4779988 342470 – plateau at the foot of Crvena Greda
34T 4780185 343148 – reserve Potoci
34T 4780122 343942 – Golubinje monument
34T 4780133 344536 – Bosača
34T 4779738 344769 – Barno lake
34T 4779638 345013 – Ivan Do (at the end of bungalow area)
34T 4779671 345609 – Ivan Do (entrance to NP Durmitor)
The third route starts at the mountain lodge Sušičko lake at 1180 meters above sea lever from where we continue to the right towards today's goal – Black lake. After one kilometer and passing through the forest, we come to the drinking fountain and a signpost which shows us that we need to keep the main direction to the right. After 4,5 km we come to the food of the waterfall Skakala, which represents fantastic natural attraction. Here, we will see signpost from which we follow the right direction towards mountain lodge Škrka (Škrčka jezera). After 1,9 km we come to the mountain lodge Škrka where, on a plain near driking fountain, another signpost can be found which leads us to the left in the direction of Planinica via Botun. After 500 meters we come to the crossroad near Veliko Škrčko lake, west from the bars of the moraine. Here we follow the left direction towards viewpoint Botun and peak Planinica.
Waterfall Skakala
After 200 meters we reach the plateau in front of the forest which is located northwest from Veliko Škrčko lake (if you can, walk through a circular tour around the lake). At this place we follow the left direction towards Međeđi do. After 900 meters we come to the plateau above puddles and
32 viewpoint Botun is 300 meters away from this place, on the left (1870 masl). In order to continue towards today's destination, we follow the main direction to the left. From this place, Međeđi do is only two kilometers away. After an hour of walking we come to the crossroad in Međeđi do where we follow the right direction. After 1,6 km we come to the saddle Međeđe Ždrijelo (2251 masl). We follow the road to the left towards Gornja Ališnica and peak Planinica (2330 masl) can be found also on the left, 600 meters from the saddle at which you can climb if you want.
View from peak Planinica towards Škrčka lakes
This Durmitor peak is considered to be one of the first-class viewpoint, at the junction of the highest peaks of Durmitor. In the case of favorable weather, you can spend an entire day by resting and experiencing the most picturesque mountain world of Montenegro. This massif rises above the valley od Škrčka lakes and it offers a fantastic view at the other peaks of Durmitor.
After 1,3 km we come to big puddle and Gornja Ališnica at 2064 masl, we follow the right direction towards Donja Ališnica. After 2,9 km we come to the saddle Donja Ališnica (1931 masl) where we continue right towards Potoci reserves. Glade beneath Crvena Greda is waiting for us after 2,3 km of walking, where we turn right. After 600 meters we come to natural reserve Potoci at 1524 masl, where we turn right to Bosača. After 900 meters we come to the crossroad in the village of Golubinje, near the monument. We continue to the right.
After 600 meters we come to the crossroad in the place called Bosača. From here we continue to the right, while Barno lake is only 600 meters away. Barno lake is a small lake whose sides are covered by dense marsh vegetation and the lake is surrounded by dense coniferous forest. The depth of the lake is only one meter and many legends are related to this lake, like for all other lakes of Durmitor. It is believed that the water of the lake is medicinal, especially for some skin diseases. The lake is located at 1489 meters above sea level and it provides fantastic view towards Savin kuk and peak Međed. Zminje and Jablan lake can be found in immediate surrounding.
Barno lake
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After one kilometer of walking, we come to the camp in Ivanov Do, where we turn right at the crossroad. The entrance to the National Park Durmitor, i.e. the main entrance in Ivanov Do is 700 meters away, where today's, third route of ViP Dinarica ends.
4. ITINERARY 4
Black lake (Kraljeva stolica) – Javorovača – Rudovača – Dukovo polje – Njegovuđa – Zminica – Zminičko lake
Difficulty: easy
Trail length: 16,9 km
Time: 4:45 h
UTM waypoints:
34T 4778673 345200 – Black lake (Kraljeva stolica)
34T 4779245 347854 – crossroad near restaurant Javorovača
34T 4777558 351100 – Rudinovača (well)
34T 4778266 352420 – Dukovo polje (well)
34T 4776186 355646 – Njegovuđa (center)
34T 4776053 355914 – Njegovuđa (hamlet Zaugline)
34T 4773840 357256 – Zminica
34T 4773570 357500 – Zminičko lake
Black lake, located at an altitude of 1416 meters, represents the mountain eyes of Durmitor. Surrounded by dense forests of pine, which, together with the massif of Durmitor reflect in the clear water, giving it a shade of black, the lake was named Black lake. During harsh winters, the lake is covered with ice and snow and its beauty remains hidden under deep snow. In the spring, when the snow starts to melt from surrounding mountains, clear mountain water fill Malo lake which spill over Veliko lake, which are separated by a small saddle.
Black lake during winter
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Black lake is highly visited, therefore you will meet different people from all over the world who admire the extraordinary beauty of this natural jewel. Many legends are related to Black lake and its origin, which are best told by the local, who are willing to accommodate and help travelers. Fourth route of Via Dinarica begins from the lake, in the place called Kraljeva Stolica (1428 masl). The goal of today's route is Zminičko lake, therefore we follow the signs which are pointing to the left.
After 4,6 km of walking, on gravel / asphalt road, through Žabljak town center, we come to the crossroad near restaurant Javorovača where we follow the main direction to the left. After 3,4 km we come to the crossroad in the place called Rudovača, near the well. At this crossroad, we need to turn right. After 1,9 km we come to the place called Dukovo polje at 1338 masl at the crossroad near another well where we turn right. After 4,5 km we come to the center of Njegovuđa, where gravel and asphalt road alternate. This place is populated, so if you have not refilled your water reserves in Žabljak, better do it now. At this part of Jezerska plateau, we come to the crossroad where we follow the main direction to the left. After 300 meters we come to another crossroad in Njegovuđa (hamlet Zaugline) where we follow the main direction to the right and Zminičko lake is one hour of walking away.
Horse racing during summer in Njegovuđa
After three kilometers we come to Zminica katun, near Zminičko lake which belongs to mountain Sinjajevina. Fourth route of Via Dinarica ends up here.
Zminičko lake, as well as Zabojsko, belongs to Durmitor National Park, although it is situated in the territory of the mountain Sinjajevina. The lake is located in the area called Zminica, at the altitude of 1285 meters, and the lake is six meters deep. There is walking trail around the lake, in a distance of one kilometer. There are benches along the trail, so you can occasionally relax and enjoy the view of the lake. In addition to basic information about the lake which are provided at the information board, you can find another interesting fact: Zminičko lake is the only habitat of endemic species of salamander called Serdarski triton which can be found only in this lake and nowhere else.
Zminičko lake
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The lake is photogenic, therefore you will certainly enjoy finding the perfect scene with which you will eternalize your visit to this part of Sinjajevina mountain. In the summer, the lake's temperature reaches 22 degrees, therefore you can decide to cool and swim in the lake after hiking.
5. ITINERARY 5
Pašino Polje - Rabrenska kosa – Mandida do – Čolanov Do – Veliki Kurozeb (1886) – Šaransko polje (Konate) – saddle Mramorje – katun Zaboj – Zabojsko lake
Difficulty: demanding
Trail length: 16 km
Time: 5:45 h
UTM waypoints:
34T 4770138 358785 – Pašino polje
34T 4769298 358847 – Rabrenska kosa (near the gate)
34T 4768968 359047 – turnoff southwest from Časica
34T 4768102 359707 – Mandida Do
34T 4766036 361029 – Čolanov Do (puddle)
34T 4765760 362075 – Veliki Kurozeb (1886)
34T 4765096 362787 – Šaransko polje (Konate)
34T 4764780 363385 – Šaransko polje (abandoned house)
34T 4763364 365048 – I crossroad saddle Mramorje
34T 4763323 365164 – II crossroad saddle Mramorje
34T 4763664 366922 – katun Zaboj (curve)
34T 4763480 367413 – katun Zaboj (caffe)
34T 4763384 367623 – Zabojsko lake
Last, fifth route of hiking Via Dinarica begins in Pašino Polje at 1583 masl. On the east from Pašino Polje there is a crossroad at which we turn left in the direction of Veliki Kurozeb. After 2,5 km we come to Rabrenska kosa, where we find another crossroad near the lake. Here we turn right and continue straight by gravel road. After 800 meters we come to the crossroad northwest from Časica which directs us to the right. After 900 meters we come to the place called Mandida do at 1526 meters above sea level. We follow the right direction.
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After three kilometers we reach the location Čolanov Do and big buddle where signpost which directs us to the left can be found. After 1,3 km or 30 minutes of walking we come to peak Veliki Kurozeb at 1886 meters above sea level. From Veliki Kurozeb, the view goes towards Mališida Kurozeb, Čolanov do, Šaransko polje, mountain Stražnica, Ploča and Mandida Kosa.
After a short break and enjoying the view, we continue to the left towards today's destination – Zabojsko lake. After 1,5 km we come to the place called Šaransko Polje – Konate, in katun Pod Kurozeb, where we come to the crossroad at 1683 meters above sea level. Here we follow the main direction right. After one kilometer we come to another crossroad in Šaransko Polje near abandoned house where we follow the right direction. Along the way,at every 300 meters, you will encounter columns with markings, pictograms and a number of hiking trail that passes therethrough, in order to be sure that you are on the right track.
After 2,6 km we come to the crossroad which is located 150 meters west from saddle Mramorje (towards Šančevi) where we continue to the right. After 200 meters we come to the saddle Mramorje (1675 masl) where we follow direction to the right for katun Zaboj and Zabojsko lake.
After 2,4 km we reach the bend near katun Zaboj (1515 masl) where the signpost indicates that we need to turn left towards Zabojsko lake. After 500 meters we come to another signpost and the lake is 800 meters away on the left side. After 300 meters we reach a small cafe – resting place in katun Zaboj which is open in the summer, where you can take a short break. We continue to the left for another 500 meters and we arrive to the lake at which today's, fifth route ends.
Zabojsko lake
Mountain Sinjajevina is located in the central part of Montenegro. It is considered to be the largest and most extensive mountain of Montenegro. It is bordered by the canyons of Tara and Morača, with two most impressive river canyons and it extends all the way to Kolašin and Mojkovac valleys. Its expanse is made of monotonous landscape karst fields, gentle slopes covered with grass. Severe aridity on a large part of the plateau has led that this mountain is famous for its harsh conditions. It is assumed that river flowed through Sinjajevina – and the witnesses are dry valleys, their ramifications and diversity. Lakes enrich the beauty of Sinjajevina – Zabojsko and Zminičko lake. Zabojsko lake is located near river Tara canyon and it is considered to be one of the most beautiful lakes of Montenegro, the so called „mountain eyes“ of Sinjajevina.
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Service providers on hiking trail
Information and contacts
Recommended accommodation facilities, restaurants, agrotourism, producers of honey and other local products of the north of Montenegro:
PLUŽINE
1. BRANO PANTOVID
Address: village Mratinje
M: +382 (0) 69 820 892
+382 (0) 67 595 404
E-mail: [email protected]
This kind host and his mother live here throughout a year and visitors can be served by homemade products – cheese, sour cream, vegetables, fruits, homemade jams, juices and different teas from herbs that Brano's mother collects. They can accommodate up to three persons. For larger group of visitors (more than 20 persons) they can organize accommodation in a village facility that is usually used for organizing village meetings. In that case, hikers should have their own sleeping bags, because there is concrete floor in the facility. Here there is also a toilette and possibility of using mini kitchen.
2. DALASAN MILOŠ
Address: Mratinje (hamlet Dalasani - Čair, Krč)
M: +382 (0) 69 531 849
Estate of Dalasan family can be found in the village of Mratinje, hamlet Krč (Čair-Dalasani). Kind hosts live in Plužine, but they spend their summer in village, therefore it is necessary to be announced when coming, so that hosts can put at disposal three bedrooms and kithen for all interested travelers. Here, 10 persons can be accommodated. Also, according to guests' requirements, hosts can serve food which comprises homemade products and specialties. In autumn, housewife prepares plum and pears juices and jams, as well as blueberries and blackberries, and our kind host makes
38 plum and pear fruit brandy. Besides, there is enough space for camping at this estate (they have water fountain in front of the house).
3. MILORAD MAZID
Address: village Nedajno
M: +382 (0) 69 618 078
This kind host lives here throughout a year. It is necessary to be announced one or two days in advance, and up to six people can be accommodated in his home. Also, for camp lovers, camp places can be found at his spacious estate. Guests can taste quality dairy and meat products, vegetables, homemade juices, brandy and teas. Mr. Milorad can organize hiking tours and visiting Durmitor and Piva attractions. Besides, in the case of larger group of tourists, he can provide accommodation in village facility where 20-30 people can sleep. In that case, it is necessary to have your own sleeping bags because there is a concrete floor in the facility.
1. MIRO VRAČAR
Address: village Šaridi
M: +382 (0) 67 640 730
Host Miro Vračar does not always reside at this address, but throughout a year, visitors-hikers, can usually find some members of his family here. Household can provide accommodation services, therefore up to 10 tourists can spend the night here. Household can also serve food based on their homemade products. Due to previous announcement, household can organize lunches as well. Nevertheless, guests can buy their meat, dairy products, vegetable and various herbs. Visitors can camp at this estate and host can organize hiking tours.
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2. RANKO MITRID
Address: Nedajno
M: +382 (0) 69 47 78 50
In mountain atmosphere of the village of Nedajno, in the canyon of Sušica river, household Mitrovid gladly hosts tourist, hikers and other visitors. Guests can choose between accommodation in comfortable bungalows or camping at the estate. In family atmosphere, guests will enjoy in tastes of homemade food and traditional products. Host Ranko Mitrid knows the site very well and he can be your personal mountain guide in exploring beautiful environment.
3. GORAN VUKOVID
Address: village Mratinje
M: +382 (0) 69 475 508
Goran has years-long experience in guiding groups. He usually works with tourists groups that are older than 50 years old, but there are also families with children. He works with groups that are more than 20 participants. Besides hiking with the starting point from Mratinje towards Trnovačko lake, which he usuallt does, he also offers visiting local attractions such as Piva and Zagrađe Monasteries. Besides, he also offers jeep safari tours. Also, in the village of Mratinje, Goran can organize private accommodation for groups up to 10 people.
4. TOURIST ORGANIZATION PLUŽINE
Address: Ul. Baja Pivljanina bb, Plužine
T:+382(0)40270069
M: +382 (0)69 635 412
M: +382 (0)69 670 939
E-mail: [email protected] www.pluzine.travel
ŽABLJAK
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1. DANILO ALEKSID
Address: village Pašino Polje
M: +382 (0) 69 499 033
Kind host with his wife and children live at this address from May to October. This interesting family lives in the old house which is full of old-fashioned furniture, old photographs, clothings and other antiqueties which try to make a picture of former life in a village. They can offer accommodation for up to five persons and can offer quality homemade food. Visitors will be served by local products which can also be bought. Guests can visit their estate, garden, fields, meadows, see the cattle and enjoy beautiful nature.
2. SAVATIJE ZEJAK
Address: village Pašino Polje
M: +382 (0) 69 029 967
House of the Zejak family can be found by hiking trail, and it is 15 minutes of walking away from the crossroad in Pašino Polje (turning right on the crossroad), and they reside at this address throughout a year. Here, up to ten persons can accommodate, but there is also place for campers, while hosts can serve their guests with quality dairy and meat products, homemade blueberry juices, mushrooms, teas etc. In the company of the hosts, guests can visit their farm, see the cattle, see the process of making cheese etc. Special impressions are given through the conversation with family members who will tell interesting stories about their life in the village.
3. VELIBOR OSTOJID
Address: village Rudinovača
M: +382 (0) 68 327 820
41
+382 (0) 69 623 107
Interesting offer of this host makes his 10 horses on the farm. There is a possibility for horseback riding, and Velibor also works as horseback riding instructor. Besides, kind host can accommodate from three to five persons, and can also prepare food, if guests require so. Here, family resides in the period from May to November. For larger groups of visitors, family can organize accommodation which is two kilometers far away from their home. Camping is also available on the estate, while water can be found in the house. In addition, host can organize lunch for up top 50 people, but with previous announcement.
4. STOJAN ANĐELID
Address: village Suvodo, Njegovuđa
M: +382 (0) 69 359 840
+382 (0) 67 617 863
This kind host and his wife live here from May to November every year. Here, two or three persons can find accommodation. In addition, family can serve food, according to guests' requirements, who can enjoy in tasty traditional dishes that hardworking housewife usually prepares. Besides every visitor will be served by quality food, they can get familiar with this area by listening interesting stories from our host. In addition, tourists can camp on the estate, and water can be found in the house.
5. MIŠO ANĐELID
Address: village Suvodo, Njegovuđa
M: +382 (0) 67 861 231
+382 (0) 69 028 337
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The Anđelid family lives at this address throughout a year. They offer accommodation for up to three persons with food services in family home. All guests can enjoy the company of this family and they will be served by most quality dairy an meat products, vegetables, homemade brandy, tea from herbs that family collects and many others. Also, hikers can camp on their estate. Son of our host knows well the surrounding, therefore he can organize hiking tours for interested visitor
6. JOVAN MANDID
Address: Mandida Do
M: +382 (0) 69 672 748
Host Jovan Mandid lives at this address throughout a year. It is important to mention that from his household to the households beneath Veliki Kurozeb there is no houses on hiking trail (for hikers that go in direction of Veliki Kurozeb), and in reverse this is the first house after household Simidevid beneath Veliki Kurozeb, if you are going from the direction of Zabojsko lake. Visitors will be served with dairy and meat products, brandy, teas. In addition to accommodation in their house (capacity to accommodate up to 10 persons) and if they want to enjoy food that is carefully prepared by housewife, guests can also camp on the estate (water in front of the house). Also, hikers can visit their estate, environment and horseback riding.
7. VOJIN SIMIDEVID
Address: village Konate, beneath Veliki Kurozeb (Šaransko polje)
M: +382 (0) 69 577 354
Vojin lives at this address with his family in the period from May to October. It is interesting that after their house, if you are hiking from the direction of Zabojsko lake, first household on hiking trail can be found in Mandida Do, where house of the Mandid family can be found. In Vojin's home, there
43 is a possibility of accommodation, since the household has five extra beds, while there is also camping space on the estate. Besides, kind housewife can prepare food, so guests can try dairy and meat products, vegetables, fruit brandy etc. Guests can visit his estate and enjoy in horseback riding.
8. Mountain lodge 'SUŠIČKO JEZERO'
Address: river Sušica canyon, Durmitor
Contact: Milija Tomčid, host
M: +382 (0) 69 400 821
NP Durmitor
T: +382 (0)52 36 02 28
In the river Sušica canyon, at 5,5 kilometers away from the village called Nedajno (2h of hiking) and 7,2 km away from mountain lodge Škrčka lake (3h of hiking), (at hiking trails 105 and 192), there is mountain lodge in which eight beds in four separated rooms exist (double rooms). In restaurant part of this mountain lodge, there is huge fireplace where 50 hikers can sit and refresh by some hot or cold beverages. Food is not served here. There is no electricity, but there is a toilette. Mountain lodge is opened from the beginning of June till the end of September or beginning of October. Also, camping is possible in front of the lodge (water stream can be found near the lodge).
9. Mountain lodge 'ŠKRKA'
Address: Veliko Škrčko jezero, Durmitor
NP Durmitor
44
T: +382 (0)52 36 02 28
Besides Veliko Škrčko lake, at 7,2 km (3.10h od hiking) away from mountain lodge Škrčka lakes, and at 16,5 km (6.45h of hiking) away from Žabljak city center (hiking trail 105), there is mountain lodge which can accommodate 12 hikers. There are two separate rooms with two beds in this mountain lodge. It is very important that every traveler should have their own sleeping bags. This mountain lodge does not offer food nor drink, and there is no electricity or water. Spring water can be found in front of the lodge. Mountain lodge is open from the beginning of June until the end of September or beginning of October. Also, there is a possibility of camping in front of the mountain lodge.
10. RESTAURANT 'JAVOROVAČA'
Address: Javorovača bb, Žabljak
Contact: Vuk Popovid
M: +382 (0) 67 618 618
E-mail: [email protected]
Restaurant ’Javorovača’ can be found at the exit from Žabljak towards Savin kuk. Restaurant with warm home atmosphere is recognized as a place where people can enjoy tasty dishes of traditional cuisine and homemade juices and refreshments. You can enjoy attractive environment from large terrace, and in wintertime you can see ski slopes where many ski lovers enjoy. Ski classes are often organized for interested guests, while they have capacity for teambuilding activities as well. Restaurant offers rafting and hiking tours, while they have enough vehicles for visiting famous Durmitor ring.
11. ‘ŠARANSKO OKO’
Address: Njegovuđa
45
Contact: Milica Anđelid
M: +382 (0) 67 813 179
This caffe is built in unique style made of wood and stone and it is located at 100 m from crossroad in Njegovuđe center (right from the direction of Suvodo and left from the direction of Zminice). Visitors can take a break at this caffe during their hiking and other outdoor tours. Visitors can refresh by different beverages as well as to order some of the dishes that can be found on the menu. Tourists can experience interesting atmosphere of this caffe wether on terrace made of wood or in traditional designed interior whose walls are decorated with photographs which tell about life of local population here. Also, kind hosts can provide accommodation services if necessary.
12. KNEŽEVID ČEDOMIR
Address: village Junčev Do
M: +382 (0) 69 401 573
E-mail: [email protected]
This kind host lives with his family near Žabljak, by hiking trail from the direction of Njegovuđe. Visitors who come to this household can try their quality products such as honey, milk, sour milk, sour cream, cheese, teas made of herbs etc. Also, visitors can buy products. According to annoucement, housewife can prepare many traditional dishes, among which are cicvara and kačamak. Visit to this household can be interesting by listening interesting stories from their life, visiting estate, garden, hut in which dairy products are made etc.
13. MIŠO BOJAT
Address: Junčev do, Žabljak
M: +382 (0) 67 859 002
+382 (0) 67 909 10 44
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E-mail: [email protected]
Offer of this household includes serving their homemade products, teas made of herbs, vegetables, fruits, homemade juices, jams. Also, by previous announcement (at least 6 hours earlier), family organizes lunches according to agreed menu, and guests can enjoy tasty homemade dishes. These lunches/dinners can be organized after hiking tours and can be served in household's garden. It is interesting to mention that host and family members can organize preparation of small lunch packets (sandwiches, pies, cakes etc.), which tourists can bring with themselves. Camping on estate is possible (there is spring water on the estate).
14. TADIJA OSTOJID
Address: Junčev do, Žabljak
M: +382 (0) 69 672 339
This kind household lives here throughout a year. During visit to this household, visitors can be served by their homemade products such as milk, sour milk, sour milk, grušavina, jomuža, dried lamb meat, pork ham, 'zatop', sausage, teas , fruits and vegetables). This family has two horses, therefore interested guests can enjoy horseback riding. In addition, kind host makes gusle, traditional Montenegrin instrument which can be bought. Besides, host can organize hiking tours for all interested nature lovers.
15. ZORAN SMOLOVID
Address: village Zminica
M: +382 (0) 69 663 380
House of this hospitable host is located 2 km away from attractive Zminičko lake (white house beneath the forest, turning right from the trail, 200 m away from the road). He offers various agricultural products – sweet and sour milk, cottage cheese, sour cream, meat products such as lamb and veil ham, vegetables and herbs. Also, with previous announcement, he can organize lunch for visitors and serve boiled lamb, potato and other vegetables from their wide offer. Tourists can camp in nice garden of this household (toilette can be found in the house).
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16. ZORAN ANĐELID
Adresa: Njegovuđa
M: +382 (0) 67 892 103
With previous announcement, this household offers accommodation in house made of stone and wood, in which every detail represents perfect connection of tradition and modern elements. Spending time in this ambiance, where wooden benches and stairway are made by host himself, room decorated with old-fashioned furniture, tool and kitchen utilities which were used by their ancestors, represents special moment. Household provides food services as well. Kind host knows well the environment, therefore he can organize hiking tours. This family lives at this address through the year.
17. RADA ANĐELID
Address: Njegovuđa
M: +382 (0) 69 798 255 (Rada)
+382 (0) 69 218 535 (Novak)
Offer of services and products of this household which is located by hiking trail is very rich. Besides every guest can be served quality homemade products, this family have the possibility to accommodate visitors. Willing to meet requirements of guests, guests will have the opportunity to enjoy traditional food. In addition, Mrs. Rada is talented and visitors can buy traditional clothing made of wool and cotton and for which she was often awarded at local events. Visitors should be announced in advance.
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18. SUMMIT TOURIST AGENCY
Address: Žabljak
Contact: Danilo Grbovid
M: +382 (0) 69 212 329
+382 (0) 69 629 516
E-mail: [email protected]
www.summit.co.me
With their rich offer, this tourist agency meets the requirements and services to visitors of all ages. They work with both local and international groups of guests, up to 20 and from 20 persons. This agency provides services of accommodation both in hotels and in private accommodation in Žabljak. They also offer activities that will make guests‘ stay on Durmitor more interesting: canyoning, rafting, mountain biking, trekking, snowkiting, jeep safari. All offers for outdoor tourism lovers are implemented in cooperation with „Adventure team“ which works within this agency and is made of group of experienced alpinists, rescuers, skiiers, who will ensure that guests have unforgettable active holiday in Žabljak.
19. TRIFTAR RAFTING CLUB
Address: Žabljak
Contact: Goran Lekovid
M: +382 (0) 67 565 164
E-mail: [email protected]
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Goran Lekovid and other skeepers of Triftar will make rafting Tara river once in a lifetime experience. Years-long experience, hospitality and interesting stories about Tara river will make that visitors experience this river in proper way. Offered rafting tours are organizes as one-day and multiple-day trips. Besides, for all interested guests, they can organize hiking tours as well as jeep safari. Also, they offer private accommmodation and can accommodate up to 20 persons.
20. ‘DANE RAFT’
Address: village Bosača, Žabljak
Contact: Dane Novosel
M: +382 (0) 69 552 682
E-mail: [email protected]
www.durmitorraft.com
This kind host with years-long experience in organizing rafting tours, has different variations of these tours, therefore his guests can enjoy different rafting tours. Besides, in the village of Bosača, host has house in which can accommodate up to 20 persons. Also, Dane organizes visiting local area by jeeps, therefore his guests can enjoy unique landscapes such as for example view from viewpoint Durevac at Tara river, etc.
21. 'ŽABLJAK TURIST' TRAVEL AGENCY
Address: ul. Svetog Save 37, Žabljak
Contact: Miroslav Šljivančanin
50
T: +382 (0)52 361 115
M: +382 (0) 69 311 032
E-mail: [email protected]
www.miro-tara.com
This travel agency and tour operator has years-long experience working at tourism market. Their services are used by guests between 25 and 50 years old, as well as families with children. Agency offer, as activity which is emphasized in their business is rafting tours that are organized even for groups up to 24 participants. In addition, jeep safari tours are often organized, for groups up to 40 participants. Nevertheless, renting kayaking equipment is also comprised within the offer. Of course, they can provide accommodation services both in nearby hotel and in private sector and camps.
22. TOURIST ORGANIZATION ŽABLJAK
Address: Trg Durmitorskih ratnika bb, Žabljak
T/F:+382(0)52361802 E-mail: [email protected] www.zabljak.travel
23. VISITORS CENTER NATIONAL PARK DURMITOR – NATIONAL PARK DURMITOR
Address: Ul. Jovana Cvijida bb, Žabljak
T: +382 (0)52 36 02 28
E-mail: [email protected] www.nparkovi.me
24. PSD 'DURMITOR'
Address: Žabljak
Predsjednik: Batrid Grbovid
M: +382 (067) 572-351
Contact for guiding service: Zoran Vojinovid
M: +382 (0)69 480 644
Mountain Rescue Service of Montenegro
Contact numbers: 112 ili 122
MOJKOVAC
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1. VUKMAN ROVČANIN
Address: village Zaboj
M: +382 (0) 67 802 873
T: +382 (0) 50 795 209
Not far away from Zabojsko lake, household of the Rovčanin family provides accommodation services for up to 10 persons, in the period from May to October. Guestscan spend the night and enjoy the food that is prepared by housewives – served homemade dairy and meat products, as well as traditional dishes such as boiled lamb, bucketwheat pie, cicvara,kačamak, etc. Visitors can enjoy in lovely landscape and experience the life in the village by looking hosts that do everyday farm activities. According to the wishes of guests, host can organize different hiking tours. Near the house, towards the lake, household own small caffe where visitors can also take a break.
2. VUČETA STANIŠID
Address: katun Planinica, (Crvena Ploča, near katun Zaboj)
M: +382 (0) 69 910 988
This kind host with his wife lives in katun from April to November. Visitors, enjoying warm family atmosphere, can find out more about life in katun through the conversation with the hosts. By watching grandmother while knitting, or watching housewife making cheese and cream, or children playing with the goats, you will gain true picture of life here in katun and in their village called Dobrilovina, located lower in Tara canyon, where they spend the rest of the year. This household can accommodate up to five persons, and all guests will be served with quality dairy products, homemade bread, teas etc.
3. TOURIST ORGANIZATION MOJKOVAC
Address: ul. Serdara Janka Vukotida bb, Mojkovac
52
M: +382 (0) 69 376 090
E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] www.mojkovac.travel
PORTALS
These facilities are not on cycling or hiking trail, but their offer deserves to be proposed as rest areas and palces where tourists have the possibility to actively participate in many excursions and get familiar with the charms of this place.
MOJKOVAC
1. IZLET, restaurant
Address: village Dobrilovina
Contact: Anđa Stanišid
M: +382 (0) 69 822 969
+382 (0) 67 224 250
This restaurant is located in the village called Dobrilovina and it is 26 km away from Mojkovac towards Đurđevida Tara and Pljevlja. Although it is situated 8 km away from Zabojsko lake as starting point at this part of Via Dinarica hiking trail, it is interesting to note that this is the place where tourists usually go after successfull hiking. In nice atmosphere and with hospitality of kind housewife and staff, tourists can refresh by many homemade beverages. In addition, priganice, homemade bread, proja, cicvara, kačamak (with previous announcement) are also found on the menu, together with meat products of household Stanišid, as well as dairy products. There are also other specialties such as steaks, trout, different kind of soups...
2. VILLAGE HOUSEHOLD ECO OASIS – SUZA EVROPE
Address: Dobrilovina
53
M: +382 (0) 67 511 755
E-mail: [email protected]
Household household Eco oasis – Suza Evrope is located in Tara river canyon, in the village called Gornja Dobrilovina. They offer comfortable accommodation in bungalows and here you have all conditions for camping. In natural environment of this eco oasis, you can enjoy tastes of unique local dishes. This is ideal starting point towards Zabojsko lake.
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Peaks of the Balkans
Peaks of the Balkans project marked 192 kilometers of hiking and biking trails in three countries and mapped routes connect villages of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. Hiking trail goes along glacial lakes, authentic summer pastures (katuns) and through Prokletije National Park. Besides set signalization, guidebook and maps of the trails were developed as well as procedure of crossing the border for tourists was agreed, beside official cross borders.
Tourists will have the opportunity to experience most beautiful hiking routes of Prokletije, which is considered to be unique mountain range which is often compared with Alps and Carpathians.
As Peaks of the Balkans include ten days of hiking, in the following text you can find useful information about ten trails of this route as well as service providers that can be found along every trail.
1. Theth, Albania – Valbonё, Albania
Trail distance: 13.9 kilometers
Elevation min: 745 meters max: 1,759 meters
Cumulative height uphill: 1,068 meters downhill: 792 meters
Difficulty level: Moderate
Time: 7 hours
Markings: white/red/white
UTM Waypoints:
1. 34T399041 4694459, 716 m, Theth bridge
2. 34T398793 4695067, 782 m
3. 34T399285 4695200, 935 m
4. 34T400086 4694929, 1193 m, meadow
5. 34T401256 4695832, 1397 m, water source
6. 34T402500 4695499, 1759 m, Valbona Pass
7. 34T402192 4695977, 1696 m
8. 34T402569 4696171, 1528 m, stream crossing
9. 34T403108 4696019, 1436, water source
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10. 34T404473 4696149, 1127, Rragam village
11. 34T404780 4696239, 1122 m
12. 34T407097 4697679, 995 m, Fusha e Gjes Hotel
This itinerary involves a hike from Theth (745 m) over the Valbona Pass (1759 m) to Valbonë (995 m). This hike follows the route of an ancient mule track linking the tribal regions of Shala and Nikaj.
The trail can be separated into two parts through having an overnight at one of the guesthouses of Rragam (WP 10) approx. 6 km before reaching Valbonё center (WP 3a). Another option for separating the trail is camping at the meadows before reaching Valbona pass. There are no people (neither shepherds during the summer time) near the Valbona pass, but recently a bar is being built and people can be found during the summer time.
The hike starts at Theth center, waypoint (WP) 1, and continues northwest on a gravel road with the Theth River on our left. The main bridge of Theth and Prek Harusha guesthouse can be taken as orientation points. After a few hundred meters, we cross a stream along a footbridge and immediately take the path on our right at the junction. The trail takes a right turn at WP 2 and continues northwest. A few meters further on, there are signs for Gusinje, Montenegro and Valbonë, Albania. The hike continues gently up along a dirt road until we see the first house of Gjelaj village along with the mule track on our left at WP 3. We take the mule track and the ascent becomes steeper. After approx. 200 meters, the mule track enters the forest, continuing through it for 1 kilometer until we reach a picturesque meadow (WP 4). This is an inviting place to rest awhile. Our hike next leads steeply uphill northeast, reentering the forest after approx. 500 meters. After walking through the forest for about 1 kilometer, we reach a water source (WP 5). A few meters further on, we pass a new wooden bar which was closed at the time (in Nov 2011), but according to locals will be opened during the summer time for hikers. We follow the path southeast through the forest for approx. 700 meters and then we exit the forest and continue east to the Valbona pass (WP 6). This point offers breathtaking views onto two valleys (Valbonë on the east, Theth on the west).
The descent to Valbonë begins northwest and then heads northeast through a series of zigzags (WP 7). At the end of the zigzags, we cross a (dried-up) stream (WP 8). We then continue southwest as the path enters into an open, wooded area along a clear trail. After approx. 600 meters, we reach a stream with drinkable water (WP 9), a good place to rest a bit before taking the final descent to
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Rragam village (WP 10). At this point, we take a left turn at the junction. In Rragam, our hike is lined by fences and the Valbonë valley can be seen on our right.
After a few hundred meters of walking through the village, we take a right turn at the junction (WP 11) and this route leads us down a gravel road lined by pine trees. This is the main road connecting Valbonë with Rragam. We take this route for about 3 kilometers and we finish our hike at Fusha e Gjes Hotel (WP 12). Valbonë center is located 3.5 kilometers northeast and can be reached by taking this route.
2. Valbonё, Albania – Çerem, Albania
Trail distance: 19.8 kilometers
Elevation min: 670 meters max: 1,156 meters
Cumulative height uphill: 541 meters downhill: 382 meters
Difficulty level: Easy
Time: 7 hours
Markings: None
UTM waypoints:
12. 34 T 407097 4697679, 995 m, Fusha e Gjes Hotel
1a. 34 T 407468 4698259, 986 m, bridge
2a. 34 T 408260 4699582, 956 m, Valbonë Tourist Info Center
3a. 34 T 408772 4700569, 935 m, Valbonë center
4a. 34 T 414397 4699325, 672 m, take a left turn at the junction
5a. 34 T 413686 4700449, 798 m, take a left turn at the junction
6a. 34 T 414761 4703230, 1058 m, stream crossing
7a. 34 T 414611 4705051, 1139 m, Çerem center
8a. 34 T 414751 4705175, 1155 m, Hysen Sula guesthouse
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This itinerary involves the transfer from Valbonë to Çerem village. To get to Çerem, one can either hire a taxi or hike along the gravel road for 20 kilometers from Fusha e Gjes Hotel (WP 12) to Çerem. The mule track – the shortest way – used to connect the two villages, but has been destroyed by erosion.
There are no accommodation possibilities along this trail for separating the hike/ drive. People at Fusha e Gjes Hotel can help you find a taxi.
Çerem is a small village, largely abandoned, located approx. 17 kilometers northeast of Valbonë. At the moment it is populated only during the summer time by shepherds. The village is empty during the winter time due to poor weather conditions. The road which connects the village with Valbonë and the city of Bajram Curri is blocked by snow during the winters.
The hike/drive starts at Hotel Fusha e Gjes (WP 12), located about 3.5 kilometers southwest of Valbonë center. We follow northwest along the main (unpaved) road which connects Rragam with Valbonë. Approx. 1 kilometer from the hotel, we cross a bridge (WP 1a). A few kilometers further on, we find the Tourist Info Center of Valbonë (WP 2a) located next to the main road close to the village center (WP 3a). Most of the guesthouses and other facilities are located here.
Take the main road and then, after approx. 7 kilometers, bear left at the junction (WP 4a) to Çerem village. By taking a right turn at this junction, the route takes you to Dragobi village and then on to Bajram Curri city. We take a left turn at the next junction (WP 5a) and follow the gravel road. After some kilometers, we cross a stream (WP 6a) flowing over the road. We follow the gravel road for 2 more kilometers and then cross the river and approach Çerem center (WP 7a). Çerem is a good option for staying overnight or taking a break at one of its hospitable alpine huts. We stayed at Hysen Sula’s guesthouse (WP 8a).
3. Çerem, Albania – Dobërdol, Albania
Trail distance: 15.64 kilometers
Elevation min: 1,152 meters max: 1,920 meters
Cumulative height uphill: 1,025 meters downhill: 440 meters
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Difficulty level: Moderate
Time: 6 hours
Markings: white/red/white
UTM waypoints:
7a. 34 T 414611 4705051, 1139 m, Çerem center
1b. 34 T 414919 4705565, 1191 m, stream crossing
2b. 34 T 414940 4705849, 1338 m, meadow
3b. 34 T 415148 4706301, 1468 m, dirt road
4b. 34 T 416875 4706918, 1593 m, bear left at the junction
5b. 34 T 416583 4707134, 1593 m, border pyramid
6b. 34 T 417356 4707595, 1792 m, meadow and border police survey point
7b. 34 T 418434 4707468, 1898 m, turn right at the junction
8b. 34 T 419635 4708607, 1840 m, Balqin
9b. 34 T 419965 4709720, 1809 m, junction (turn right is suggested)
10b. 34 T 420060 4710127, 1798 m, stream crossing
11b. 34 T 420757 4710353, 1775 m, water source and the ruins of border police office
12b. 34 T 420757 4710353, 1659 m, start ascending
13b. 34 T 423294 4711127, 1741 m, mountain hut in Dobërdol
This day involves a transfer hike from Çerem to Dobërdol, a remote shepherd’s village accessible only by mule tracks and populated only during the summer time by shepherds. From Çerem, the hike
59 climbs up to the Montenegrin border, passes the beautiful summer shepherd’s village of Balqin, and continues through the Gashi valley (protected area) to the shepherd’s village of Dobërdol. The main attractions in Dobërdol are the glacial lakes of the Dobërdol-Sulbicës plateau.
This trail can be separated perfectly into two days hike by having an overnight stay at the picturesque summer shepherd’s village of Balqin (WP 8b) which is located almost in the middle of the trail. The first day hike is 9.1 kilometers and the second day is 6.5 kilometers long. You can either camp there or ask the shepherds for a shelter. Fresh food can be bought directly from them.
There are a number of springs and streams along the trail which are safe for drinking.
The hike starts at Çerem center (WP 7a) and continues northeast on a gravel road along the Markafsha stream. At WP 1b, we cross the stream and follow the mule track which enters the forest and zigzags upwards. The path exits the forest at WP 2b and follows northeast through a beautiful meadow with breathtaking views towards Çerem. The track is easily identifiable by a slight depression when the grass is long and very easy to follow because the meadow is lined by the forest leading you to the gravel road (WP 3b).
The ascent softens as we follow the gravel road through the forest for approx. 2.5 kilometers. Our route turns left at the junction (WP 4b) and we leave the gravel road at the border pyramid (WP 5b). From the border pyramid, our track continues along Montenegrin territory for approx. 2.5 kilometers by following an easily identifiable, gently ascending mule track northeast through the forest. At WP 6b, we reach a nice meadow and can see a small building on our left which had been used as a survey point by the border police. We take a right turn at the junction, and as our path enters the forest, after several meters, the ascent starts to become steeper. We bear right at the junction of WP 7b and after approx. 100 meters we meet a dirt road. A few meters ahead, on our right side, another border pyramid is located.
We cross the dirt road and follow the mule track northeast, passing through the forest until we reach Balqin (WP 8b), a beautiful shepherd’s village also used only during the summer time. Balqin is an inviting place to take a rest and get to know a little more about the locals’ culture.
The track to Dobërdol follows northeast with an easy ascent through the forest. At the junction (WP 9b), one can either turn right or left. Both ways are marked and lead you onto the same path. We suggest making a left turn because this way is shorter. From here we start a gentle descent and then cross a stream (WP 10b), following the track east along the stream. After approx. 800 meters, we reach a water source (WP 11b). The ruins of the border police office can be seen a few meters off to our right side.
From here, one path descends to the Gashi valley, while another one climbs up to the border. We follow north along the descending path to the valley and a few meters further on we make a left turn at the junction. At WP 12b, the path starts ascending (from 1660 to 1760) and afterwards the hike through the beautiful meadows of Dobërdol is flat along the river.
Dobërdol is a good option to spend a day at and have a relaxing hike to the glacial lakes located a few kilometers southeast. You can stay overnight at the mountain hut (WP 13b) which is managed by a local family for touristic purposes.
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4. Dobërdol, Albania – Milishevc, Kosovo
Trail distance: 18.2 kilometers
Elevation min: 1,534 meters max: 2,290 meters
Cumulative height uphill: 915 meters downhill: 980 meters
Difficulty level: Moderate
Time: 8-9 hours
Markings to the border: white/red/white, from the border to Milishevc: red/white/red
UTM waypoints:
13b. 34 T 423294 4711127, 1741 m, mountain hut in Dobёrdol
1c. 34 T 424072 4711901, 2218 m, the border
2c. 34 T 424949 4713682, 2117 m, follow N at the junction
3c. 34 T 425060 4714706, 2183 m, follow N at the junction
4c. 34 T 424768 4715620, 2260 m
5c. 34 T 424866 4717014, 2258 m, Roshkodoli pass
6c. 34 T 426180 4719645, 1728 m, cross the river
7c. 34 T 426180 4719645, 1636 m, gravel road
8c. 34 T 427293 4720707, 1583 m, Roshkodol village
9c. 34 T 427989 4720866, 1547 m, bear left at the junction
10c. 34 T 429013 4721231, 1687 m, bear left at the junction
11c. 34 T 430729 4721074, 1743 m, Milishevc village
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This is a long trail which involves a hike from the remote shepherd’s village of Dobёrdol to another less remote shepherd’s village in Kosovo (Milishevc). Milishevc has a good road connection with the city of Peja and more and more mountain huts in this village are being used for touristic purposes.
For a less challenging hike, the trail can be separated into two parts. One can follow the eastern path at the junction (WP 3c) and descend to Bjeshka e Belegut where accommodation, camping possibilities and fresh food can be found at the shepherd’s summer huts. Bear in mind that there are no GPS waypoints from WP 3c to Bjeshka e Belegut, but the path remains easy to orientate. Bjeshka e Belegut is connected with Milishevc (WP 11c) by a dirt road easily identifiable with a map.
The hike starts at an altitude of 1741 m – mountain hut of Dobёrdol (WP 13b) – and climbs up northeast to the altitude of 2210 m at the border between Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro (WP 1c). It continues northeast with little ascents and descents along the border between Montenegro and Kosovo. At WP 2c, we turn right (north) at the junction. The path on our right leads to Babino Polje, Montenegro.
Bear left (north) at the next junction (WP 3c). The east path leads to Bjeshka e Belegut. Our route follows the west side of Maja e Qenit (the peak in front of us, a few hundred meters from WP 3c). The west slope of Maja e Qenit is steep but short (approx. 500 m hiking) and is also the best option to get to the other side of this mountain (WP 4c) and head north to Roshkodolit pass (WP 5c).
In case you find the passing of this mountain slope too difficult, consider following the path through Bjeshka e Belegut to Milishevc, which is a longer but easier option (mainly along dirt roads). From Roshkodolit pass, the track descends and follows along the valley. At WP 6c we cross the river and continue along the track from the west side. We meet the gravel road at WP 7c, followed by the village of Roshkodol at WP 8c - an optional place for an overnight stay.
Milishevc is located approx. 5 kilometers west of Roshkodol and is accessible by a dirt road. Bear left at WP 9c and 10c. This day hike finishes at Milishevc (WP 11c), where you can stay overnight at the village’s mountain huts.
5. Milishevc, Kosovo – Reka e Allagёs, Kosovo
Trail distance: 16.24 kilometers
Elevation min: 910 meters max: 2,136 meters
Cumulative height uphill: 863 meters downhill: 1,277 meters
Difficulty level: Moderate
Time: 8-9 hours
Markings: red/white/red
UTM waypoints:
11c. 34 T 430736 4721046, 1743 m, Milishevc village
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1d. 34 T 430362 4721773, 1975 m, meadow
2d. 34 T 430404 4722198, 2136 m, pass
3d. 34 T 431026 4723009, 2113 m, Pusi i Magareve lake
4d. 34 T 430739 4723722, 2024 m, start of a steep descent N
5d. 34 T 430850 4724683, 1682 m, dirt road
6d. 34 T 430983 4725360, 1465 m, leave the dirt road and take mule track left
7d. 34 T 430836 4725888, 1408 m, cross the dirt road and follow the mule track N through the forest
8d. 34 T 430898 4726110, 1383 m, follow N along the gravel and bear right at the junction
9d. 34 T 430835 4726437, 1343 m, end of the gravel and we take a left turn and follow a mule track through a meadow
10d. 34 T 430956 4726594, 1282 m, cross the dirt road and follow N through a mule track in the forest
11d. 34 T 431201 4727364, 909 m, Rrugova Camp and then take the paved road NW
12d. 34 T 429811 4727850, 939 m, bear right and follow the gravel road N
13d. 34 T 430375 4729251, 1069 m, bear right at the junction and then Reka e Allagёs
14d. 34 T 431383 4730601, 1236 m, bear left to Hokaj
15d. 34 T 430988 4730890, 1300 m, Mustafa Hakaj Guesthouse
The interesting transfer hike to Reka e Allagёs begins with an ascent to the Lumbardhi ridge, a vantage point which offers breathtaking views towards the surrounding mountains and Milishevc. It then continues with a steep descent to Rugova Camp Hotel before continuing up along gravel roads to Reka e Allagёs. Bonuses of this hike include drinks at Rugova Camp and delicious traditional food served with warm hospitality at Reka e Allagёs’ guesthouses.
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For a less challenging hike, the trail can be separated into two days. The first day would involve an ascent hike 9.1 kilometers long to the Lumbardhi ridge and the steep descent to Rugova Camp (WP 11d, tel: +38 (0) 44-248-270) where accommodation can be found. The second day will involve a 6.8 kilometers hike from Rugova Camp to Reka e Allagës village with a gentle ascend along the gravel roads.
This hike starts at the main road (dirt road) of the village (WP 11c) and climbs directly north via the mule track which crosses the Bjeshka e Lumbardhit ridge. At WP 1d, we reach a beautiful meadow with breathtaking views towards Gjeravica Mountain (the highest in Kosovo), Marjashi peak (southwest from our position), and Milishevc.
Our ascent north is along an unclear, but easily orientated track that arrives at a pass (WP 2d). From the pass we continue north towards Guri i Kuq Mountain which can be identified by its red rock formations. When we are about to approach the mountain wall, we reach a broad path which takes us to Pusi i Magareve (WP 3d) – a small lake for cattle. We follow the path north with the lake on our right and then begin a steep descent north at WP 4d along a mule track. At WP 5d, we reach a dirt road that we follow until we take a left turn at the junction (WP 6d). The hike continues along a mule track through the forest.
Our descent follows north along the mule tracks, dirt roads, and some junctions (see the waypoints list for the directions) until we reach Rrugova Camp Hotel which is located next to the main road. Rrugova Camp is an inviting place to have a rest before finishing this day hike at Reka e Allagёs village.
From Rrugova Camp one can either hike to Reka e Allagёs or take a taxi. The distance left from here is 6.8 kilometers and the trail goes 1.7 kilometers along the main road, followed by the remainder along a gravel road.
We stayed at Mustafa Hakaj’s guesthouse (WP 15d) located in the Hokaj neighborhood of Reka e Allagёs village.
6. Reka e Allagёs, Kosovo – Pepaj, Kosovo – Drelaj, Kosovo – Dugaivё, Kosovo – Kuçishtё (Guri i Kuq), Kosovo
Trail distance: 23.26 kilometers
Elevation min: 1,072 meters max: 1,820 meters
Cumulative height uphill: 1,257 meters downhill: 1,139 meters
Difficulty level: Moderate
Time: 8-9 hours
Markings: red/white/red
UTM waypoints:
15d. 34 T 430988 4730890, 1300 m, Mustafa Hakaj guesthouse
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1e. 34 T 430906 4731108, 1370 m, turn left at the junction
2e. 34 T 430550 4731248, 1477 m, dirt road
3e. 34 T 430171 4731535, 1588 m, turn left at the junction
4e. 34 T 430126 4731850, 1656 m, turn left at the junction
5e. 34 T 430120 4732624, 1820 m, tourist shelter
6e. 34 T 428691 4731186, 1651 m, bear left at the junction
7e. 34 T 427959 4730751, 1557 m, bear left at the junction
8e. 34 T 428571 4730553, 1477 m, cemetery and bear right at the junction
9e. 34 T 427977 4728774, 1125 m, Drelaj village
10e. 34 T 427762 4728500, 1072 m, bridge and follow SW
11e. 34 T 426958 4729709, 1190 m, turn left at the junction and follow the ascent NW
12e. 34 T 425195 4730312, 1307 m, turn left at the junction
13e. 34 T 424812 4730283, 1358 m, turn left at the junction
14e. 34 T 424996 4729735, 1401 m, Dukaivё village
15e. 34 T 424444 4728905, 1475 m, follow S at the junction
16e. 34 T 424179 4727984, 1208 m, Kuçishtё village
17e. 34 T 424379 4727310, 1107 m, bridge
18e. 34 T 423971 4726616, 1154 m, bear left at the junction
19e. 34 T 424790 4726670, 1212 m, bear left at the junction
20e. 34 T 424800 4726178, 1420 m, Guri i Kuq Hotel
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The transfer hike to Kuçishtё is long and interesting and allows for the possibility to visit some other villages along the way. Although it is a long day hike, the difficulty rating is low because the major part of the hike goes along dirt and gravel roads. There are also options to stop the hike and continue to the last point by vehicle.
For a less challenging hike, the trail can be divided into two parts. The best option for an overnight stay is Drelaj village (WP 9e) where accommodation can be found at the family of Osman Shala’s, tel. +37744586740. The trail distance from Reka e Allagёs to Drelaj is 10.1 kilometer long and from here to Kuçishtё (Guri i Kuq) or Leqinat i Kuçishtёs 12.9 kilometers.
The hike starts with an ascent northwest through the meadow behind Mustafa Hakaj’s guesthouse (WP 15d). Upon approaching the pine trees, we turn right (east) along a mule track. The track is lined by a fence on our right, and a few meters further on we turn left at the junction (WP 1e). After a few hundred meters following northeast, we reach a meadow with beautiful views towards Reka e Allagёs and the surrounding mountains.
At WP 2e, we cross the dirt road and follow the ascent northwest through the forest. We take a left turn at the junction (WP 3e), then we follow north until we exit the forest and reach a nice meadow and tourist shelter (WP 5e). This is an inviting place to rest awhile
From here, we follow west along a dirt road to Pepaj village. On the way to Pepaj there are two water sources along the road. At the junction of WP 6e and 7e, we turn left and the descent to Pepaj village can be seen from both positions. After approx. 1 kilometer, we see the cemetery (WP 8e) and take a right turn at the junction a few meters further on. The descent follows very gently along a gravel road no longer used by cars; auto traffic having moved to a more recently built road. By following this road for a few kilometers, we reach Drelaj village (WP 9e) and from here we turn right at the junction. We continue southwest through the village along a road lined by fences. This road leads us to the village exit, a bridge (WP10). We cross the bridge and follow a gravel road ascending north along the river into a beautiful canyon.
If you want to finish this hike, you can take a left turn after crossing the bridge and approx. 1 kilometer further on you meet the main road. Here you can hire a taxi to Kuçishtё (WP 20e).
At WP 11e, bear left at the junction and follow the ascending gravel road northwest. When we arrive at Dugaivё (WP 14e), we do not take any of the dirt roads; rather, we follow southwest along a meadow, then south to the forest. We follow south at WP 15e and approx. 200 meters further on we start descending along a mule track through the forest which leads us to Kuçishtё village (WP 16e). At the village, we take the dirt road and continue southwest until we meet the paved road at the bridge (WP 17e).
Worth visiting in this village is the Catholic Church which is located in a place called “Church Hill” (ask locals for a guide or directions). Ruins of this church represent one of the most valuable monuments of medieval Rugova.
To go to Guri i Kuq Hotel (the point nearest to the trail head of the next hike), follow south for approx. 3.8 kilometers and bear left at the junctions of WP 18e and 19e.
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7. Leqinat i Kuçishtёs (Guri i Kuq), Kosovo – Babino Polje, Crna Gora
Trail distance: 15.8 kilometers
Elevation min: 1,438 meters max: 2,276 meters
Cumulative height uphill: 1,151 meters downhill: 1,109 meters
Difficulty level: Moderate
Time: 7-8 hours
Markings to the border: red/white/red from the border to Babino Polje: red circle/white fills
UTM waypoints:
20e. 34 T 424800 4726178, 1420 m, Guri i Kuq Hotel
1f. 34 T 425369 4724425, 1876 m, Liqeni i Kuçishtёs (lake)
2f. 34 T 426113 4724454, 1784 m, water source
3f. 34 T 426155 4724353, 1811 m, Liqeni i Drelajve (lake)
4f. 34 T 426800 4723160, 2188 m, Lugu i Shkodrёs pass
5f. 34 T 426885 4723124, 2191 m, water source
6f. 34 T 426804 4722822, 2272 m, Jelenka pass
7f. 34 T 426055 4721607, 2048 m, a small lake
8f. 34 T 424205 4718643, 2178 m, Ravno Brdo pass
9f. 34 T 422988 4717640, 1756 m, shepherd huts
10f. 34 T 422408 4717585, 1551 m, bridge
11f. 34 T 421050 4718300, 1492 m, Armend Alija’s house
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This day involves a transfer hike to Babino Polje, Montenegro. This is a relatively long hike which passes the border between Kosovo and Montenegro. It goes through beautiful mountain areas with many water sources, glacial lakes, and mountain passes featuring breathtaking views.
From Guri i Kuq to Babino Polje, there are no accommodation possivilities/ villages in between along the trail, but one can set up a tent. We suggest camping at Lugu i Shkodres pass (WP 4f) or in between Jelenka pass and Ravno Brdo pass – near the small lake (WP 7f). If you decide to divide this hike into two parts, the first day would be mostly ascending and the second day mostly descending. Considering the split up of the trail WP 7f, the length of the first day is 7.4 kilometers and the second day 8.4 kilometers. Please note that camping outside organized camping sites is not allowed in Montenegro.
It starts at Guri i Kuq Complex (WP 20e) and goes gently upwards south along an unpaved road, later becoming a hiking trail marked with red circles. After approx. 2.2 kilometers hiking uphill, we reach an amazing glacial lake. The locals call it Liqeni i Kuçishtёs (WP 1f). Our route follows northwest for approx. 500 meters and then southwest. A few meters further on, we reach a water source (WP 2f) and a glacial lake called Liqeni i Drelajve (WP 3f).
Up to this point, the path is clearly visible, but after we pass the second glacial lake the path starts to become less noticeable and requires good orientation skills. A GPS device or a local guide is recommended for this part of the hike.
From Liqeni i Drelajve the route follows southwest uphill to the Lugu i Shkodrёs pass (WP 4f). The pass is called Lugu i Shkodrёs (Shkodra pass) because it used to be the pass of an ancient path connecting this area with the city of Shkodra in Albania.
A water source can be found in Lugu i Shkodrёs pass (WP 5f). Our route continues south uphill for approx. 400 meters until we reach Jelenka pass (WP 6f). From here, we can see the valley of Babino Polje. We start the hike southeast downhill and after approx. 1.5 kilometers we see a small artificial lake (WP 7f). The locals use this as a water reserve for donkeys, horses, etc. From here, the route follows southwest along a nearly-flat terrain until Ravno Brdo pass (WP 8f) is reached. From Ravno Brdo pass, we have a very clear and beautiful view towards Babino Polje village. The path is not always visible because of the long grass, but it is not difficult to reach the village since we have a
68 clear view of it. The path continues downhill and we see many shepherd huts (WP 9f). After an approx. 1 kilometer hike downhill, we reach the village. After we cross the bridge (WP 10f), we continue northwest along an unpaved road. Babino Polje is a nice option for an overnight stay and it is easy to find accommodation. One can stay in Armend Alija’s house, tel. +37744557386, WP 11f.
8. Babino Polje, Montenegro – Hridsko lake – Plav, Montenegro
Trail distance: 20.31 kilometers
Elevation min: 953 meters max: 2,068 meters
Cumulative height uphill: 719 meters downhill: 1,250 meters
Difficulty level: Moderate
Time: 7-8 hours
Markings: red circle/white fills
UTM Waypoints:
1g. 34 T 420875 4713728, 1800 m Lake Hrid
2g. 34 T 419291 4715059, 2011 m Veliki Hrid cliff
3g. 34 T 418870 4715461, 1885 m water source
4g. 34 T 417679 4716266, 1542 m Katun Treskavica summer huts
5g. 34 T 413639 4717092, 965 m meeting the asphalt road
6g. 34 T 413381 4716577, 968 m Plav center
This is a long transfer hike from Babino Polje to Plav. The hike ascends up from beautiful Lake Hrid and finishes at the city of Plav.
The best option to separate this day hike into two days is by having an overnight stay at Treskavički
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Katun/Katun Treskavica (WP 4g) where the length of the trail will be 12.1 kilometers on the first day and 8.2 kilometers on the second day. There are shepherds in summer time at Treskavički Katun (late June to late September) from whom you can get fresh food and possibly a shelter to stay overnight. If you separate this hike, the first day would be mostly ascending and the second day mostly descending to the town of Plav.
Beginning from the path crossing in Babino Polje (300m southeast from the “Hrid” eco-mountain huts, WP 11f ), and progressing through the woods, the trail leads to lively Katun Bajrovica where homemade food is available for purchase. From there, the hiking trail (numbered 542 in the national trail network) continues west from Tepsijica along the river, Hridska Rijeka, and leads to the eastern side of the Hrid river (at an altitude of more than 1800m, WP 1g). The lake can be circled and its western part offers particularly enjoyable views. Lake Hrid is recognized as a strict nature reserve (the highest level of protection) within Prokletije National Park and camping is not allowed. Further on, the trail leads to another viewpoint at Sacirov vrh (Sacirov Peak). Continuing along the ledge of Veliki Hrid (numbered 540 in the national trail network), the next point is Veliki Hrid (WP 2g, 2011m). Following down Trskavica hill, past the Katun Treskavica summer huts (Katun Temnjak, WP 4g), and along the Treskavicka river, there is a forest road to be crossed in the direction of Kofilajca. The trail leads further along the northern brim of the Kofiljaca mountain and across the Redzov dol* to exit the forest at Korita. From there, continuing down a dirt road followed by an asphalted street (WP 5g), the trail follows along the town’s old, architecturally characteristic Ottoman symmetry to arrive at the traffic circle in the center of Plav (WP 6g). In Plav, the Redzepagica kula (tower) and old wooden mosque can be visited. Stores stocking food, rest stops, and overnight possibilities are also available.
*from Redzov, there is a possibility for a 12 km circular hike around the Kofiljaca mountains. This optional hike does not belong to our trail, but is recommended as an additional trip.
9. Plav, Montenegro – peak Bor – Vusanje, Montenegro
Trail distance: 27.4 kilometers levation min: 968 meters max: 2,106 meters
Difficulty level: Moderate
Time: 10 – 11 hours
Marking: red circle/white fill
UTM Waypoints:
1h. 34 T 413381 4716577, 968 m Plav center
2h. 34 T 409610 4706179, 1820 m Katun
3h. 34 T 408511 4707351, 1548 m Fus Sirma (summer huts)
4h. 34 T 405097 4708730, 1022 m Vusanje
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This is a long hike which starts at the city of Plav (968 m), climbs up to Bor Peak (2106 m), and finishes at the village of Vusanje (1022 m).
This hike could be divided into two parts through staying an overnight at Kolenovica Katun (UTM 34 T 408166 4709032) where shepherds can be found during the summer time. From Bor summit, follow the ridge northwest and head down from the saddle where Kolendarsko lake lies. This katun lies down the Kolendarsko lake and has drinkable water over the whole summer.
This trail is numbered 552 in the national trail network. It begins at the traffic circle in front of the old mosque in Plav (WP 1h). Posted signs can be found pointing towards the southern direction. Upon crossing towards Đuricka Rijeka (Djuricka river), there is a road to the village Zaviš 30 m after the mosque. This part of the trail is simultaneously a mountain bike path. Along the trail, you will come to a place known as Radunov laz which contains a spring of drinkable water and wonderful view points towards Lake Plav, the Ljuča river, Visitor Mountain, and the town of Plav. This is a suitable place to take a rest after hiking 4.5 km from the starting point. Afterwards, the trail goes along a good path through the woods until Gradec hill, at which point the trail turns southwest after the second curve towards Karaula Feratovica (1664 m). Here we enter the territory of Prokletije National Park. This is also a view point looking over the wider region surrounding Lake Plav, the Kofiljaca, and Visitor mountains, and the Djuricka river.
From that point, along the eastern hillside of Bairak hill, the trail leads to Katun Paljvukaj (not on the map). During the summer months, visitors can taste homemade products and experience local culture here. After 8.5 km of hiking, this is a good place for taking the next break and refilling your water reserves. From Radunov laz until Katun Paljvukaj, the trail goes through mixed forests of spruce, fir and beech trees included in the territory of Prokletije National Park.
Following west towards the Bairak hilltop (2074 m), the trail leads over the northeast ridge of Maja e Borit to the Bor pass which contains a small lake. The next point is Bor Peak (2106 m), which we reach along a grassy ridge covered with plenty of wild blueberries for us to sample. In total, we have now hiked 15.5 km.
Along the 3 smaller lakes, we are moving southeast towards the southern peak of Bor Mountain (above the Katun Mala Scapica) to the boundary park viewpoint (2149 m). From there, you can see
71 the Çerem valley, the Kolata massif, Lake Plav, northeast towards Hajla Mountain, and the Komovi and Karanfili mountains.
Downhill, in the southern direction, the trail goes towards the Katun Grlata (Buni Cesalj) while passing a series of destroyed military block houses. This place is temporarily populated during the summer months and is a nice point to have a rest or camp, two water springs being located close to the katun.
An extra day of hiking (in addition to the regular PoB trail) affords the possibility to hike to the Zla Kolata (2535 m) peak through the Skripa valley and Preslopit (2039 m) pass. The northwest chamber of Preslopit leads to the triple pass (2526 m), and then to the very top of Kolata (Maja e Keq) (2535 m) Peak. The hike is long - approx. 4h in one direction. It is necessary to have full hiking and alpine equipment. Hiring a local guide is recommended.
Following a good path (used to bring the cattle to katuns), you will reach the village of Vusanje (Vuthaj) at WP 3i after approx. 7 km, or 3 hours walking. Accommodation can be found here. Close to Vusanje, you can find a wonderful waterfall fed by the Grlja river. An overnight stay and rest for the next day’s hike towards Theth is suggested.
10. Vusanje (Vuthaj), Crna Gora – Theth, Albania
Trail distance: 21.35 kilometers
Elevation min: 726 meters max: 1,748 meters
Accumulative height uphill: 1,111 meters downhill: 1,437 meters
Time: 8 hours
Difficulty level: Moderate
Markings to the border: red circle/white fills from the border to Theth: red/white/red
UTM Waypoints:
4h. 34 T 405097 4708730, 1022 m Vusanje
1i. 34 T 404845 4708497, 990 m waterfall
2i. 34 T 404291 4707256, 1033 m blue eye
3i. 34 T 403030 4705798, 1144 m meadow
4i. 34 T 400701 4704071, 1245 m border pyramid
5i. 34 T 399590 4702816, 1490 m water source
6i. 34 T 399276 4701505, 1613 m water source
7i. 34 T 398806 4700168, 1633 m Pejёs lake
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8i. 34 T 398890 4699824, 1707 m Pejёs pass
9i. 34 T 398150 4698017, 958 m water source
10i. 34 T 399276 4694292, 728 m Theth
This is a relatively long hike which crosses the border between Montenegro and Albania. The path passes along the craggiest part of the Prokletje/Bjeshkёt e Namuna/Alpet Shqipёtare mountains. Almost the entire hike is surrounded by steep mountains with stunning views. This itinerary allows us a glance into the region’s past when it was a forbidden zone during the Communist era. A border military post, a bunker and the border crossing pyramid sign still remain by the crossing. The transfer hike finishes at the beautiful village of Theth with its traditional tower houses surrounded by steep mountains.
If you would like to divide this hike into two parts (two days), the best place to stay overnight is the meadow at Sheh i Bardh (WP 6i) where you can set up your tent. There might also be shepherds during the summer time at the former border police building from whom you can buy fresh food. This place is located almost in the middle of the trail.
The hike starts at Vusanje (WP 4h) and follows southwest along a dirt road. After approx. 300 meters, we find a wonderful waterfall flowing out of the Grlja river (WP 1i). Our hike continues along the dirt road and after approx. 1.4 kilometers we take a right turn, continuing over a narrow foot path for about 50 meters, until we arrive at another area attraction – the “blue eye”. The blue eye is a small lake whose rich groundwater sources grant it the bluish color of its water (WP 2i).
From the blue eye, we turn back to the dirt road and follow it southwest. After approx. 2 kilometers we reach a nice meadow (WP 3i). Travelers can also reach this point by 4WD.
Our route gently ascends southwest along a path, which can be easily followed, lined by steep mountains. After approx. 2 kilometers of following the valley southwest, we will reach a lake (Lideni Gšfars) which might be dried up during the summer time. We follow the path southwest and after approx. 500 meters we reach the Albanian border where a pyramid (WP 4i) from Communist times reminds you that you have entered a border area. The Albanian motif and the letters “RPSSH” are written on the pyramid. RPSSH is an acronym for the “People’s Socialist Republic of Albania”
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(Republika Popullore Socialiste e Shqipёrisё).
From the border, we continue ascending southwest, first through an oak forest, and then through a pine forest, for approx. 1.4 kilometers until we reach a very nice meadow (Fusha e Ruinicёs). This is an inviting spot to rest awhile. At Fusha e Ruinicёs a water source is located close to the shepherds’ summer huts (WP 5i).
The route continues along a visible path south over flat terrain which gently begins to ascend through the valley. After approx. 1.5 kilometers, we reach a bunker followed by a water source (WP 6i) approx. 100 meters further on. The abandoned building close to the water source used to be a military building protecting the border. There is also a nice meadow here (She i Bardhё), a good option for camping if you are not planning to go directly to Theth.
From She i Bardhё, the route follows the gentle ascent south along a visible path. We start to descend for several meters as we approach Lake Pejёs (Albanian: Liqeni i Pejёs or Liqeni i Peshkeqes) at WP 7i. From the lake, we start an ascent south and reach the Pejёs pass (Qafa e Pejёs) after approx. 400 meters. Qafa e Pejёs (WP 8i) offers a stunning view towards Theth valley.
Our descent from the pass zigzags south along a very steep, but well-maintained and safe path. This takes us to Theth valley. As the descent becomes gentler, the visible track passes through a wooded area of pines. After approx. 1.3 kilometers through the forest, we reach a water source (WP 9i). The source itself is located approx. 700 meters before Okol village in Theth valley. From Okol we follow a dirt road southeast over flat terrain bordering the Thethi River, reaching Theth village (WP 10i) approx. 3.8 kilometers later.
In both Okol and Theth, village guesthouses can be found. Theth is also a good option for spending one or two days to visit the surrounding attractions (e.g. blue eye, waterfall, blood tower, ethnographic museum, etc.).
PEAKS OF THE BALKANS MONTENEGRO SERVICE PROVIDERS
1. Eco mountain resort „Hrid“ Babino polje, Plav, +382 69 231 388, 68 871 550, Enes Dreškovid
Mountain resort Hrid can be found at 12 kilometers from Plav, in the heart of the National Park Prokletije, on the road towards Hridsko lake. This resort offers bungalows with total accommodation capacity of 26 beds. When it comes to food, for smaller groups of visitor, Mountain Lodge provide food supply, and when it comes to bigger groups, there is chef who prepares traditional dishes. Also, food can be served in nearby villages, where housewives will gladly meet the requirements of all travelers. Activities such as hiking tours, visiting katuns and lakes, organizing lectures in nature can be organized and nights are reserved for socializing by crackling campfire.
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2. Emina Redžematovid, +382 69 584 730, Bajrovida katun
Samel’s hut is located in Bajrovida katun, in National Park Prokletije, at 1750 meters above sea level. At your disposal are comfortably equipped two-storey hut and two bungalows. Besides accommodation in this mountain environment, hosts will prepare for you traditional dishes such as kačamak and do not miss to try homemade dairy products, jams, juices and teas. Visitors can get familiar with the process of cheese production, milking cows, works in the field and one of the most beautiful lakes in Montenegro – Lake Hrid – is located one hour of hiking from the katun.
3. Ermin Markišid, +382 67 566 345, [email protected], Treskavački katun
The Markišid family spends time in Traskavački katun from May until September. For all guests, there are three well equipped bungalows with two beds, as well as guest house with five beds. Campers are welcome too, since spacious estate can be used for setting tents. Do not miss tasting of blueberry and rapsberry juices, as well as plum and blueberry jams which are very popular in this area. Hosts also provide traditional dishes and local products such as cheese, cream, sour milk and honey.
4. TIMM caffe, pizzeria & appartments, +382 68 747 707, [email protected], Plav
TIMM caffe, which can be found in Plav town centre, provides capacity of 115 seats in restaurant part, while upper floor comprises six modern equipped and comfortable units. This facility is the right place for lunch break or to spend the night if you plan to visit Prokletije National Park which can be found nearby. When it comes to restaurant menu, besides traditional dishes, they also provide specialty such as steak and veal. This restaurant is also special since they do not serve alcoholic beverages.
5. Rasim Selimanjin, +382 69 548 046, Memina mountain (Jasenica village)
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This family of nine lives on Memina mountain from May to September where they take care of their cattle. In addition to large number of cattle, family collects forest fruits out of which they make jams and juices. Do not miss to try plum jam, blueberry juice, and local specialty is conifer cone juice. They serve dairy and meat products to their guests, and if you want to stay longer in this part of Montenegro, they provide accommodation in one hut for three persons and camp house where two more persons can be situated.
6. Guest House Dedušaj, +382 69 611 621, [email protected], Vusanje
Dedušaj family is into tourism for the last three years. Since this area boasts with natural beaty and is located within Prokletije National Park, all guests and hikers are welcome. Accommodation capacity comprises five rooms with three bathrooms where up to 15 persons can be situated. Hosts serve homemade products such as veil, cheese, milk, mountain teas and fruits. They also have four horses which can serve for transport, as well as for horse riding upon the guests' requests.
7. Restaurant Grlja, Vusanje
Only 4 km from Gusinje and couple of meters from famous Grlja waterfall in the heart of Prokletije peaks, you can find “Grlja” restaurant. Restaurant offer comprises tasty national and international dishes prepared by professional chefs. Restaurant provides 40 seats and terrace with 140 seats and private parking is provided too. In addition to hotel accommodation, there are also four bungalows designed according to traditional model.
8. Brahim Uljaj, +382 68 871 620, 68 871 622, Vusanje 76
Household of Brahim Uljaj in the village of Gornje Vusanje provides accommodation and food for all travelers. This family offers products such as fruits, vegetables, dairy and meat products and housewife prepares traditional specialties such as pies, flia, kačamak, cicvara, as well as homemade blueberry and plum jams and juices. Markings from the main road lead to spring which can be found behind the house.
9. Eco katun Rosi (Old Tower), Getoar Đonbaljaj, +382 69 610 999, Vusanje
Eco katun Rosi in Vusanje provides accommodation which comprises 57 beds in equipped bungalows and appartments. Every room has bathroom and wifi. Tower which is 220 years old has traditional room where drinks are served. Do not miss to hear the story about tower’s history. Restaurant part comprises 120 seats and here you can enjoy traditional dishes such as lamb, fish, pies, flia, kačamak... Offered activities are cycling, rafting and hiking, while you can rent a bike within this eco katun.
10. Hotel Rosi, Getoar Đonbaljaj, +382 69 610 999, Gusinje
Hotel Rosi in Gusinje comprises 14 modern equipped and comfortable units with overall capacity of 52 beds. Restaurant can be found at the first floor, which provides place for up to 300 people. Restaurant serves national and international dishes. When it comes to traditional cuisine, specialty is Gusinje’s lunch which comprises boiled meat with mushrooms and white sauce, flia, meat and cheese pies… Kind hotel staff will organize for you tours to the most famous natural attractions.
11. Jetmir Gojčaj, +382 63 481 160, [email protected]
Jetmir Gojčaj is mountain guide for the area of Prokletije mountain who organizes tours for the last five years. Besides hiking, he is also cycling guide and during winter, he usually organizes snowshoe tours.
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PEAKS OF THE BALKANS KOSOVO SERVICE PROVIDERS
Hajla Mountain Hut, Foot of Hajla Peak, Rugova
The mountain hut is situated in the foot of Hajla Peak 3 km above Pepaj village. The lodge provides accommodation for 30 people in its 5 rooms, with fresh drinking water, no food unless arranged from the village nearby. Visitors can climb up Hajla peak (2403m) altitude during summer and in winter, equipment provided. Other activities taking place in the camp are training about camping, life/survival skills, environmental education, outdoor orientation, photography, etc. From the camp, you can see whole Rugova valley, the highest peak in the area Guri Kuq (2522m), Cakorri Pass and further.
Pepaj Mountain Hut, Pepaj Village, Rugova
A recently built wooden bungalow property of known mountaineer Xhavit Dreshaj family welcomes and accommodates up to 5 people, with fresh drinks and a self serving kitchen while you need to bring your own food. During summer, dairy products and traditional food as flia, etc. can be arranged in the village. Together with young scouts Xhavit can guide you in the village, to other villages, Hajla, Liqenat, and other attractions in Rugova valley.
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Lagja e Kaproive, Reka e Allages Village, Rugova
By the mountain biking and hiking trails is this local family business in the foot of Reka e Allages village. It started in 2006 offering accommodation in a few bungalows. Its current service capacity includes accommodation for 80 people in 8 rooms/bungalows, a restaurant that can be used as conference room, with 100-seat capacity with enough parking spaces. It offers transport/car renting; accompany visiting the nearby waterfall attraction and offer advice.
Pushimorja Hajla, Hokaj – Reka e Allages, Rugova
In an approximate distance of 1km from the bike trail in Reka e Allages in Hokaj neighborhood is the accommodation facility “Villat Hajla” with capacity of 22 beds in 3 wooden bungalows and a two- story building, overlooking a part of Rugova valley and in front peaks of Lumbardhi, Guri i Kuq and Liqenat. Accommodation can be booked during summer, food can be prepared by the arrangement, during summer you can buy dairy products at the family or in nearby village.
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Guest house “Ariu”, Hokaj – Reka e Allages, Rugova
In an approximate distance of 1km from the bike trail is the guest house “Ariu” located in Hokaj neighborhood of Reka e Allages village at 1300m altitude. Its service capacity is 30 beds in 4 rooms, equipped with a shared restroom, 50 seat dining area inside and outside in veranda. Family prepares traditional food including dairy products from own farm. A side parking is available. The family has set up a small private museum, open for visitors. In addition, it provides orientation and guiding in summer and winter.
Lulzim Lajqi, Drelaj, Rugova
This guest house is willing to start offering accommodation service to guests visiting the area. It has a capacity of 3 bedrooms accommodating up to 10 people, with equipped kitchen and dining table and a shared restroom. In prearrangement usually weekends the owner can show the area and guide you walking, transport with his 4x4 or traktor to a desired point, keen to making friends and hospitable. Family products include own garden vegetables and teas. Food as flia can be offered by arrangement.
Guest House Shqiponja, Drelaj Village, Rugova
This guest house is located in Drelaj village with accommodation capacity of 20 beds in 3 bedrooms, a veranda and parking space with good road access. It has been providing accommodation and traditional homemade food. The owner may provide information about locality and accompany you in sightseeing walks. Honey is house specialty that tourists can test and buy when available, other products include dairy, teas, etc.
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Peace House, Drelaj Villa, Rugova
This guest house has been hosting local and international visitors in small and big groups. Special food like flia by order, dairy products from neighbors. The house accommodation capacity is 10 people in 2 bedrooms, a kitchen and two restrooms. Parking and camping space available. The attic space can be adopted and used for group learning and other meetings and indoor creative activities. The house is available for visitors and those who appreciate nature for relaxing, rehabilitation and recreation. Being in the centre of Rugova, it is interconnected with the proposed new trails linking the MBT and hiking trails.
Rugova Camp AL , Malaj, Rugova
Service capacity: 60 beds - 14 bedrooms (bungalows) and 600 chairs restaurant area.
Rugova Camp AL is situated in the foot of Malaj village area at altitude about 950m, by the river at the 13th km of road Peja – Rugova through which the new mountain biking trail and the Peaks of Balkans trail passes. Camp serves food and beverages including traditional local cooking and dairy products at its restaurant. There is a bridge passing over the river where clients can walk through, visiting surrounded area on their own or be accompanied by a staff. There is plenty of parking place.
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NSH Gryka, Malaj, Rugova
This accommodation and restaurant is amongst the first to serve all year round its local and foreign clients since 2003, increasing its experience and facilities. Now it accommodates 40 people in 7 rooms and 400-seat restaurant area offering local food and comfortable accommodation for affordable prices. The place is in the foot of Malaj village by river in the by the road Peja-Rugova at 12th km with an accessible road and enough parking. MBT passes by it.
Restaurant Guri i Kuq, Kuqishtë, Rugova
Guri i Kuq has been visited by various groups usually youth, mountaineers, and others, families and professional bodies. Initially, accommodation capacity was 6 wooden bungalows, later were added two stone villas and currently there are 9 rooms/bungalows in use accommodating 50 people, while restaurant capacity is 150 seats in the main wooden restaurant building and its spacious veranda from where you can see the Church, the Kuqishta village and the valley towards Haxhaj and Boge.
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Restaurant te Liqeni, Kuqishtë, Rugova
The restaurant is situated in the foot of pine trees above Guri i Kuq south towards the lake, that's why is named Te Liqeni meaning at lakes. It started in 2006, it has been serving traditional food and later on accommodation with current capacity of 11 rooms/bungalows providing for 55 people, with restaurant capacity of 250 seats, a meeting room of 20 seats size. There are verandas and bungalows are as seen in picture. A spectacular view.
Villa, Kuqishtë, Rugova
Three villas in a great location in Liqenai i Kuqishtës with open spectacular view down the touristic village, Maja e Licit, the church and valley to Boge with equipped and recently paved road access. It offers accommodation for some 18-20 people, homemade meals, farm visit, tea and other herbs, dairy products and fruits and vegetables, pickles etc. local sightseeing guided is provided.
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Villa Oxygen, Kuqishtë, Rugova
Three villas in a great location of Kuqishta Village in foot of Maja e Licit with open spectacular view down village and the valley as well as to Bjelluha gorge. This complex is about 1.5km from the touristic village where the VIP Dinaric Alps Hike trail starts/ends.
Lojza Mountain Hut, Deecan
The inn a wooden mountain hut situated in a beautiful landscape in Sllanopoje Mountain. The Peaks of Balkans three-country border hiking trail passes as well as the VIP Dinaric Alps mountain biking and hiking trails. The owner may provide information and local guiding. The inn works mainly during summer season with prior booking. The inn is a resting point in the end of the 1st segment of VIP Dinarik Alps hiking - Kosovo Transversal and meeting point with the MBT and through here the Peaks of Balkans cross border trail passes.
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VIP DINARICA
ViP Dinarica represents hiking and biking trails that extend east from National Park Durmitor in Montenegro to Kosovo through already established Peaks of the Balkans route (www.peaksofthebalkans.com).
Visiting untouched and protected areas of this cross-border region, getting familiar with endemic and rare species of mountain flora and fauna as well as traditional and authentic local communities, makes this trail special and different from other European outdoor destination.
The trail will promote wide range of activities, from adventurous to relax ones, which visitors will be able to do both on the land and on the water. For those who decide to spend their holiday actively, will have the opportunity to enjoy in traditional way of life and unique mountain cuisine. ViP Dinarica will connect cities and rural communities, taking care about environmental protection and creating tourist offer which will rely on natural beauty, homemade producs and unique cultural heritage.
In Montenegro, ViP Dinarica trail will be made of seven hiking days and three biking days, which will be as continuation of five days of hiking and two days of biking from previous Via Dinarica. Route will be marked, mapped and separated into sections (stages), with GPS tracks which will be easily downloaded from ViP Dinarica website. Besides, ViP Dinarica will include basic infrastructure as well as signalization, accommodation, marked resting places, services and vertical profiles of every stage.
As extention of previous ViA Dinarica project, as final product, ViP Dinarica will connect four countries (Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Kosovo and Albania) through 1000 kilometers of continuous hiking and biking trails which go through six National Parks, numerous villages and 18 municipalities with variety of fantastic landscapes, providing their visitors number of activities and opportunies to spend their holiday in quality manner.
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Biking trail
Travelling Montenegrin North: Through the land of legends on two wheels
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About guide
This book – guide is designed for all cycling lovers, who will, among offered routes, find something that suits their requirements, from those who like to descover new regions, their nature and culture on two wheels, to those who are looking for excitements on the unpaved roads of mountainous interior of Montenegro.
In order to provide you best cycling vacation in the North of Montenegro, besides cycling routes, this guide provides a variety of restaurants, farms, producers of honey and other local products whose services we sincerely recommend.
In addition, cycling maps with described marked trails on three unique and unforgettable mountains are integral part of the guide so that you have enough reliable information to plan individual tours during your stay.
The guide was designed within the cross-border project „Via Peaks of Dinaric Alps – ViP Dinarica“ which managed to create new and distinctive tourism offer under the common brand „ViP Dinarica“.*
We wish you an unforgettable cycling holiday in the mountains of Montenegrin ViP Dinarica, welcome!
* Project „ViP Dinarica“ is commonly implemented by NGO „Centre for sustainable tourism initiatives“ (CSTI) and Mountaineering Association of Montenegro (PSCG) from Podgorica, and Community Development Fund - CDF and Orienteering Club „Prishtina“ from Priština.
Rules of conduct while driving roads
As cycling has become increasingly common choice to spend holiday in Montenegro, number of cyclist on our roads has multiplied in the last 10 years, which causes an increasing need for responsible behaviour when driving cycle routed in order to increase the safety level and to avoid unwanted accidents.
Unfortunately, it was impossible to avoid main and regional roads as part of cycle trails, with plenty of traffic especially during the summer tourist season.
In order to drive safely on these busy parts of the trails, please respect
the following safety rules and tips:
Drive always by the right edge of the road one after the other, never side by side, thus occupying smaller area on the road, allowing unimpeded passage of the vehicles.
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During left turn, always look behind you and give a clear hand signal that you intend to turn. While driving downhill, never cut turns, but follow the right edge of the road. Follow the traffic rules and signs which apply to drivers of motor vehicles. Always keep with you sufficient amount of water or other refreshing beverages. Before start cycling on a particular cycle trail, evaluate well your physical condition and the difficulty of the trail. Check the weather forecast and do not take a ride in the case of adverse weather conditions – heavy rain or hot sun with high daytime temperatures.
Explanation of pictograms
1. Color of difficulty paths
2. Type of bicycle 3. Restaurant 4. Accommodation 5. Camp 6. Souvenir shop 7. Archaeological site
8. Bike rental
9. Bike service 10. Mountain lodge 11. Mountain Pass 12. Mountain Peak 13. Water/spring
14. Eco honey 15. Tasting
16. Horseback riding
17. Religious building 18. Viewpoint 19. Cave
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Introduction
Journey on two wheels through three mountain units of the North of Montenegro, the altitude wreath – Sinjajevina, Bjelasica and Hajla, so close geographically, but very distinct and different, represents a kind of course of getting familiar with nature and society. It represents both ethnographic and gastronomic experience. Entering time machine on two wheels, which will introduce us to the world immune to most of what modern civilization brought with it, whether it carries positive or negative attributes. The world in which legend and reality go hand-in-hand.
By exploring landscapes of Montenegrin North, you will, in fact, explore inner you. You will understand why Antonio Baldaci, an Italian botanist who visited the area during the reign of the sovereign Prince/King Nikola (1841 – 1921, on the throne 1861 – 1918), said that Montenegrin nature is poetic and pathetic.
You will provide a feast to your senses: to your sight – an explosion of colors and variety of landscapes: smoothing, disturbing, moving, inspiring: to your smell – dazedness with the scent of hay, green grass, coniferous forests: to your hearing: liberating from sound drifts of everyday life, allowing the „enjoy the silence“ effect: to your taste – providing trust to local culinary delights.
If we have learned anything by moving on two wheels, it is to always look ahead. And that the wind, no matter in which direction we ride, will always blow in our chest. But, because of that we are here, right?
„When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark, when work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having, just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road, without thought on anything but the ride you are taking.“ Although he never visited Montenegro, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the author of the immortal Sherlock Holmes is right.
Legs will soon forget the efforts to which they were exposed. Visit the North of Montenegro once and you will always come back.
ITINERARY 1
Žabljak – katun Čurovida – katun Okruglica – Staračko polje – katun Starac – katun Okrugljak – katun Borova glava - Štitarica
Start: Žabljak
Finish: Štitarica
Total length: 69 km
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Overall ascent: 324 m from the west side and 913 m from the east side
Highest point: 1722 masl
Lowest point: 809 m
Time: all day
Difficulty: 3/5
Surface: asphalt, gravel road
Markings: red-white round and belt markings
UTM waypoints:
1. 34T 4768135 348130, 1399 m – across the bridge near Bukovica 2. 34T 4766570 355495, 1607 m – katun Čurovida 3. 34T 4765776 357741, 1628 m – katun Okruglica 4. 34T 4759238 362537, 1649 m – Staračko polje 5. 34T 4756686 366540, 1746 m – katun Starac 6. 34T 4757323 369861, 1734 m – katun Okrugljak 7. 34T 4756596 370636, 1699 m – left turnoff to katun Knez Do 8. 34T 4755220 372331, 1658 m – katun Borova glava 9. 34T 4754852 372777, 1598 m – spring 10. 34T 4754300 373734, 1460 m - viewpoint 11. 34T 4753871 374294, 1230 m – spring 12. 34T 4753146 377948, 1027 m – spring 13. 34T 4752683 378914, 996 m – asphalt road 14. 34T 4753388 381148, 937 m – left turnoff to village Gacka 15. 34T 4753400 382690, 886 m – bridge 16. 34T 4753856 383780, 716 m – crossroad Štitarica
On the waves of Sinjajevina
While struggling with own and limitations of the trail, at first glance – and modern man tends to premature conclusion – landscape of Sinjajevina, that wavy combination of calm, rounded peaks and misterious coves will look monotonous, deprived of deeper meaning. However, listening to the puls of the mountain and talking with nature, which stopped, felt affection and played with soft shapes at this point, you will realize that monotonous and boring is the very urban area which you left. You will open your senses and breathe the story of a life that has survived for centuries in this area because it was aligned with the whim of nature, knowing then to put its head down and abide by the outbursts of its sharpness or when to enjoy its gifts; the life that maintained unchanged until today...
Forget everything you have already read about the mountain and which is available by clicking the mouse on Google (by the way, on most of its area you will not have mobile phone signal and internet) – that Sinjajevina mountain extends over a lenght of 35 to 40 kilometers and a width of
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10 to 15 kilometres, with six peaks over 2000 meters above sea level with the highest Babin zub (2257 mnm) – and indulge in discovering its charm.
Foto 1 i 2: Sinjajevina scenery
Sinjajevina is not lavish beauty that will abruptly leave you breathless and swept off your feet. It will leave you breathless gradually during pedaling both figuratively and literally. Take care of your legs, you will need them as you explore its unobtrusive and deep beauty that lies in the simplicity and humility...
Cycling day begins in Žabljak – urban settlement at the highest altitude in the Balkans (1456 mnm) – comfortably reclined in the arms of Durmitor. The name of mountain, let's go through a short course of Latin, comes from the word „dormire“ – to sleep. Morning sleepiness is broken by a cup of hot, black, „Turkish“ coffee - as Montenegrins like to say, before we went to the south, via new road towards Nikšid. After leaving Žabljak, we will see Durmitor on the right side, rising in all its glory – on the left we can see pastures, and in the distance, slopes of our today's destination – Sinjajevina – can be discerned.
Foto 3: Pastures towards Sinjajevina
At 5,1 kilometers from the center of Žabljak, we come to the crossroad at national restaurant „Izvor“. Reminder to bring with us as many precious liquid as possible, because Sinjajevina as limestone region is arid place, that jealously absorb all 2000mm of rainfall a year. We turn left from the main road and continue via old road towards Šavnik through vivid villages of Javorje, Pašina Voda and Kovčica, established in the second half of the nineteenth century, where once winter huts were situated.
Just before Javorje, which is named after the maple tree which is an adornment of the region, at 5.8 kilometer we will come to the crossroad that leads right to village of Trsa through the heart of Durmitor. We stick to the old road towards Šavnik and come across to the church of St. Peter and Paul on the right side, which is recently constructed, situated on a hill and surrounded by village cemetery. Then, we pass by a village called Pašina voda – it owes its name to Mustaj Paša
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Selmanovid, who was executed by Anđelija Kosorid at the beginning of the eighteenth century and thus avenged her husband, Duke Ilija – you enter the village by asphalt road which branches off from our road to the right on a sharp curve.
On the left side we can see pastures of Jezerska plateau, while on the right we can see dominant Durmitor peaks, Stožina and Ranisava. In all villages of this area, quality local products such as cheese, cream and honey are produced, so you will find clear signs of their sales on gates of many village houses.
Foto 4: Durmitor peaks
Further, we are passing through Kovčica – and „kovča“ in the language of this area indicates the bond, connection, just as this village is the link between the fields and the mountain – on the left side we find the „Tea house“ where you can taste and enjoy the homemade herbal teas.
Foto 4 i 5: House of Durmitor tea as a place for a break
At 10,5 kilometers from Žabljak, immediately after bus stop on the left side of the road, we pass by the crossroad which leads on the left to vivid Vražje lake (Devil's lake). According to legend, once upon a time the devil himself – with beard and horns – hid with his wife in the water escaping from the great fire and built a magnificent castle made of ice crystals. This is how the lake got its name – Devil's – and its water is the coldest in the area of Durmitor, because its ice palace spreads the cold... Riblje lake (Fish lake) is situated a little farther away, above which site of medieval tombstones Bare Žugida can be found, which is added to the list of goods under the protection of UNESCO. This path further leads to Njegovuđa (you can find traffic sign post on the right side of the crossroad). However, we leave this for another visit – our today's route leads straight via hilly terrain towards Šavnik.
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Foto 6: Devil’s lake Foto 7: UNESCO protected medieval tombstones
At the 13th kilometer, we come to the crossroad with the road that branches off to the right towards the village of Bare in Gornja Bukovica, above which slopes and peaks of southern Durmitor extend and which indicates that we are in the territory of Šavnik. Just before this crossroad, we pass the monument of the National Liberation Revolution on the left. On the right side, in the distance, you can see the new road that leads to Nikšid and passes through the area called Provalija.
Our path is moving downhill among low hills and on 14,2 kilometers from Žabljak (3,6 km from previous crossroad with turning towards Vražje lake and Njegovuđa) we will turn left to side asphalt road from the main road, across the bridge towards unique Sinjajevina.
Adventure through Sinjajevina mountain starts here at 1.398 meters above sea level, below the hill with a repeator that sends signals to the lonely and spacious limestone massif nested in the heart of Montenegro. We are moving towards asphalt road through the village called Vrtoč polje across the bridge where you can find trail marking, and the path is marked by the distinctive red and white sign on the stone on the right side. We come across two separations out of which left one leads to the houses in the village, but we follow right direction which runs curvy through beech forest, by the authentic traditional stone houses. Look at the cell phone: we still have signal. After 3,4 kilometers of easy ride through this area, at 1.540 meters above sea level, suddenly, without warning, our connection with asphalt breaks. Slowly and with benefits of modern civilization, which does not have to have a negative sign in advance. On the contrary.
Asphalt becomes a good gravel road, and we, while sailing on two wheels, can see a scenery of Sinjajevina. The ascent is not too steep and after a small climb, on the left side we can see peaks of Durmitor - Savin kuk, Stožina, Prutaš and impressive Sedlo. We are looking ahead and we can find Y branching on the route where we keep the right side.
Foto 8: View towards Durmitor peaks Foto 9: Y branching on the trail
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As our route progresses, signal on mobile phone weakens, incline increases (short ascents are higher than 10%), and road surface becomes worse (moving stone that slows down and makes the movement more difficult) and therefore the path becomes hard. The landscape is an unusual, dramatic and bleak, and at 9 kilometers from the turnoff from the old road Žabljak – Šavnik, hills Kamena gora and Stražnica rise up on the right side and in the distance we can see slopes of Osuđenik. On the right side at the same time we find markings on the stone next to the gravel road, we pass towards lonely mountain huts (houses towards which right path separates) and quickly come to Čurovid katun which extends from the right side at 1590 meters above sea level. This is an opportunity for a short break, during which you can fill your bottles of water or make a call or google search on your phone because mobile phone signal is excellent here (9,1 kilemeters from the road towards Šavnik). Above katun, hill Konjska glava is located.
Foto 10: Čurovida katun
Katunska nahija is traditional name for the territorially the largest part of Old Montenegro, the nucleus of the modern Montenegrin state. On the other hand, Sinjajevina can be called nahija of katuns. While we remind that katun represents temporary shepherd hut or village in the mountainous region where people reside during summer months, keep in mind that Sinjajevina possess 120 000 hectares of pastures, which could feed, theoreticaly, around 200 000 sheep – almost the entire sheep world of Montenegro. The theory, however, is one thing and practice is another: towards all way, you will see only a dozen herds peacefully devoted to grazing, but no more than 100 heads of cattle.
Foto 11: Sinjajevina mountain landscape
The trail gradually becomes more demanding. Occasionally, on the parts of the trail no longer that hundred meters, at which ascent exceeds 10%, it will happen that your rear wheel spin into space and that the front wheel rears up like a stallion, that you will often notice in katuns. Get off your bike, take the opportunity to extend your legs and look closer the landscape in which you found yourself.
We continue via wavy path through the area usually covered with deciduous forest, while mobile phone signal weakens and we climb to 1660 meters above sea level after which we start to
95 descent. At 11,1 kilometer, we come to Y intersection at which yellow bicycle road sign is put – one branch is directing to the left, but we are keeping to the right side. Up to this point, our route overlaps with cycling route TT1 and at this crossroad we follow the direction for Starac katun (route 203). After 100 meters, follow the ascent and gravel road changes into moving stone. Shortly after following 900 meters, we find Okruglica katun on the left side, which is situatued in the picturesque landscape, after which we come to the so-called „flats“ (houses) on the left side in Dugi do, to which the path branches to the left (after 300 meters). We stick to the right gravel road which is marked on the right side by marking on the stone.
We climb to the hill called Ralovo brdo, where we come to the crossroad (12,7 kilometers of our route) – we continue to the left, while right path goes to a nearby private estate. Gravel road gradually turns into a dirt road which is occasionally covered with grass and on the left side we can find less noticeable marking on the stone. Grass and dirt gravel road are alternating, and the route is not always noticeable, but we still recognize it. At 13.2 kilometers of our route, rainwater tank and trough can be found on above which hills Batovina and Stražnica rise. The long ride takes place at the foot of Kekerska glava and Krivo brdo (on the right side) towards saddle. Before the saddle which is situated at 1722 meters above sea level, there is a huge climb where is the best way to apply the tactics of „hike-a-bike“, i.e. – to push the bike beside you.
Foto 12: Trough near the road
When we come to the saddle on the right, we will notice marking and ride further downhill. Soon, we find pictogram of cycling trail TT1 on the left (this is the crossroad at 16,2 kilometers of our road at which roads of national cycling trails TT1 and TT4 are separating and combining) and continue right along the gravel road towards wavy area at which gravel road becomes dirt-grassy road again. In this part of the plateau, at 18,4 kilometers of our todays route, we find lone building on the right side that can serve as a shelter from bad weather or at night. We are moving towards spacious Kričačko polje.
Foto 13: Abandoned houses can be used as shelters
Perhaps it is an opportunity to stop here and exert the hearing. Who knows, maybe we will hear the echoes from ancient battles, which made Sinjajevina's heights trembling. This place,
96 according to legend, used to be inhabited by Illyrian tribe Kriči. The name, derived from the Illyrian word krusi, tells us more about their physiognomy – black-haired people. The story goes that they were „brave people with military spirit“. In the XVII century, Kriči were attacked by Slovenian newcomers from Drobnjak, who ran out of room for expansion: the natives won in the first fight, and marriage of the son of Duke of Kriči, Kaloke, with the daughter of Duke Kosorid from Drobnjak seated peace. But did not last long. After a few years, with the help of neighboring Slovenian brethren, Drobnjaci attacked Kriči again. „The fightings were so savage that people talk about that with horror even today“ – one historical source from XIX century narrates. Kriči were beaten and banished from Sinjajevina, further towards Tara, but only few toponyms such as Kričko polje keep the memory of them...
We continue our journey. On the left side, we find the ruins of houses and side gravel separations to the houses, and the terrain is undulating. Our route is further directed by two signposts with markings which we leave along the road (at 19.9 and 20.3 kilometers of our road), and then 800 meters after the signpost we come to the crossroad at which our route turns sharply left at the signposts for cycling trails. Mobile phone signal is weak. At this cycling signpost (at 21.1 kilometers of our road), we follow the direction to Starac katun (overlapping with the route 004 TT1). From this crossroad, we go downhill towards Staračko polje and Starac katun, and further towards Pekovidi katun in which you can ask kindly hosts for water. Between these two katuns, great old facility of the former Economy „Sinjajevina“ will serve as domininant landmark on the left side.
Gravel road in this part of the road becomes moving stone, so be careful while driving. At 25.4 kilometers over Sinjajevina mountain, we come to the crossroad where we keep the right side (on the left side there is separation that leads to Staračko polje katun), and we find larger stone with marking by the road which will confirm that we are on the right road. After hut which can be found on the left side, path leads downhill and we will see signpost with marking (25.4 kilometers of our road). Slopes and peaks of Obručina can be seen on the right side, on which brick pyramids can be seen which locals set for easily orientation in space because Sinjajevina can be tough in bad weather. At this part of the route, we come across a solitary hut on the left side and at the intersection before it (27,5 kilometers of our route) do not turn left along the gravel road that leads to Kolibštine katun, but keep the right grassy dirt road.
After 300 meters, we find yellow cycle signpost next to whom we turn left and keep to the route that overlaps with the designated national cycling route TT4, and route TT1 leads to Vratlo and Lipovo on the right side. This signpost with marking is located at 1715 meters above sea level, at 27,8 kilometers of todays route after turning off the road Žabljak – Šavnik. On the right side, Podstarac katun remains somewhat lower (although the signpost says katun Starac), in which households from Krnja Jela and Martinidi reside in the summer and hosts are friendly to the highland honest way.
We continue our way and after 3,6 kilometers of riding over gravel road from cycling signpost, we find signpost with belt marking on the right side and stones on which markings were put together with CT1 sign (31,4 kilometers of the route).
The path leads uphilll by hilly terrain with sinkholes and pastures on which flock of sheep are scattered. We follow signalization of hiking route CT1 and when we get out on the lawn where you can see the first houses of katun, between two huts (we find the stone with markings on one side
97 and signpost of hiking trail CT1 on the other side), we continue straight towards church Ružica which can be seen in the distance.
Foto 14: View towards church Ružica on the hill
We are entering Okrugljak katun, the largest in Montenegro, through which we pass and start riding downhill towards Štitarica. Okrugljak is the border of Drobnjak tribe towards Kolašin and Mojkovac, and with its lush greenery, framed into the surounding peaks and a small, one-storey houses, it can remind you of fictional Shire, the homeland of JRR Tolkien's hobbits.
In this katun, on the left side we can find water – an opportunity to fill our reserves, but also to learn something about the history of this region.
„After the Berlin Congress and demarcation between Montenegro and Turkey *1878+, rapidly conquer of this mountain *Sinjajevina+ started by forming katuns. King Nikola awarded Brđani [immigrants from the old Montenegro, mainly from Bjelopavlidi+ katun which is held to the present day – Brđanski katun“ – we find written in a historical document.
Foto 15 i 16: Katun Okrugljak
While in the distance we glimpse the hill called Borova glava, recognizable by the dark pine forest that covers the hill, we follow the signs and see the hill on the left side on which church Ružica is comfortably situated.
Lovely religious object was built in 1894 by immigrated Brđani, i.e Bjelopavlidi and was dedicated to its patron saint, St. Vasilije Ostroški. There is an inscription above the door: „This sacred temple of St. Vasilije Ostroški built by Bjelopavlidi in 1894 to commemorate the eternal gratitude to his majesty Prince Nikola I Petrovid Njegoš who gave this katun for residing in this mountain in 1881“.
Church Ružica represents summer meeting point on Sinjajevina. Every year on St. Elias Day, on 2nd August, large church-national assembly is held, during which competitions in traditional folk
98 sports games are organized – throwing stone from the shoulder, standing long jump and high jump. We recommend to leave your bike along the road for a couple of minutes, reach the church and enjoy the view and the peace that offers.
Foto 17: Church Ružica on the hill
And when you sit back on the bike and continue riding, you will come to Y crossroad at the foot of the hill (there is a wooden signpost on the way with a belt marking and pictogram on the right side). We continue along the gravel road that leads to the right – left branch is reserved for hiking route CT1 through Knez Do katun to Ckara (to this point, we traveled the route that overlaps with CT1 for 1,5 kilometer). Our gravel road leads to Martinidki katun. We are located at the 35th kilometer of our daily route Žabljak – Sinjajevina – Štitarica which soon leads us to climb the highest peak in the trail and then a long descent follows.
Foto 18 i 19: Martinidki katun
Knez do katun can be found on the left side below the road and gravel road leads between hills Borova glava and Mali and Veliki Rasovaš towards Muleče katun at which we come after 3,75 kilometers from church Ružica. We descend through Muleče katun and keep the right side at the branching where the path turns left. As already mentioned, the road leads downhill through forested area and mobile phone signal is good. At 1,5 kilometers from Muleče katun we come to crossroad with the path which leads on the right side to Jablanov peak and our trail leads straight and downhill. At some 300 meters lower, we find the first spearation left. We continue straight and after hundred of meters, we find another separation to the left which leads to the mountain lodge and our trail still leads through deciduous forest. At this part of the trail, transparency, due to the larger number of curves is weaker and although motor vehicles are rarely encountered in the opposite direction, beware.
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Foto 20: Katun Muleče
On the descent, by which we say goodbye to Sinjajevina, some places are very steep, so the movement speed should be adjusted. At 700 meters from the previous crossroad with turning to the mountain lodge, on the right side above the road which was built in 1988, newly renovated viewpoint can be found, which offers the view on steep slope of Golubinjac covered with black pine.
Foto 21 i 22: Viewpoints and view towards the slopes of Golubinjac
Moving down through the gorge for another two kilometers, we will find a spring for travelers on the left side that calls for rest and relaxation. Going down, we find Y branching at which the right side leads to private houses and our route goes to the left. At 6,6 kilometers from the viewpoint, we come to the crossroad at which we go by gravel road to the left, and path to the right leads across the river to the picnic area. Then, our gravel road leads by left bank of Štitarica river for a couple of kilometers from picnic area and settlement of Gornja Štitarica starts to extend by the right bank of the river.
Foto 23 i 24: Picnic area near the road
Homeland of revolutionaires and warriors, doctors and ministers, Štitarica was firstly mentioned in written documents in 1455, as a station on caravan route that linked Sandžak with Montenegro and Dubrovnik. By liberation from the Turks in 1878, an accelerated development of the region started, stimulated with numerous migrant families. Between two World Wars, several water mills, lime-pit as well as sawmills in which timber was treated worked in Štitarica. But after the
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Second World War, industrialization led to emigration of population to the nearby towns, so after census in 2003, Štitarica had only 273 inhabitants.
Our route goes across the bridge to the right bank of Štitarica river at third kilometer after picnic area. We follow right bank to its confluence with the river Tara. Gravel road also finishes and asphalt road begins – at this point, riding becomes more comfortable. We continue to move along the right bank for the next 5,8 kilometers through Štitarica to the main road Mojkovac – Kolašin – Podgorica. Football field can be seen on the right side, a reminder of the popularity of „the most important secondary thing in the world“. If you have saved enough energy and you see joyful children in the race for ladybugs in a grass – join them. Because, we are in front of our aim. Coming to the main road, our daily route from Žabljak towards Sinjajevina in a lenght of 69 kilometers ends up here.
ITINERARY 2
Štitarica – Biogradsko lake – katun Dolovi Lalevida – Svatovsko groblje – Krivi smet – Jelenak – Jusin brijeg – katun Reljina – Ševarinsko lake – katun Šiška – Šiško lake – katun Suvodo – Kurikude – Lubnice – Đurđevi stupovi Monastery – Berane
Start: Štitarica
Finish Berane
Total length: 45 km
Overall ascent: 1.121 m from the west side and 1.227 m from the east side
Highest point: 1930 masl
Lowest point: 703 m
Time: all day
Difficulty: 5/5
Surface: gravel and asphalt road
Markings: red-white round and belt markings
UTM waypoints:
1. 34T 4753856 383780, 716 m – crossroad Štitarica 2. 34T 4752548 383687, 861 m – turnoff Kraljevo kolo across river Tara bridge 3. 34T 4750769 385346, 1096 m – crossroad on Biogradsko lake 4. 34T 4750462 388138, 1649 m – katun Dolovi Lalevida 5. 34T 4750218 388649, 1759 m – separation for viewpoint Bendovac 6. 34T 4750233 389844, 1884 m – Svatovsko groblje
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7. 34T 4749367 392588, 1685 m – katun Reljina, crossroad for Ševarinsko lake 8. 34T 4749843 392928, 1657 m – Ševarinsko lake 9. 34T 4750045 392344, 1673 m – katun Šiška 10. 34T 4750292 391719, 1669 m – Šiško lake 11. 34T 4749500 393893, 1469 m – katun Suvodo 12. 34T 4748707 395766, 1311 m – mountain lodge Suvodo 13. 34T 4748212 397286, 1157 m – asphalt road 14. 34T 4747695 398077, 1116 m – village Kurikude 15. 34T 4745933 398960, 1008 m – village Lubnice 16. 34T 4745753 399246, 994 m – location Pradevac, near main road 17. 34T 4744967 406929, 705 m – Đurđevi stupovi Monastery 18. 34T 4745179 407372, 684 m – main road
Through green Bjelasica mountain
It will remain the secret who and when gave it the name, but for sure he visited this mountain in winter, when the snow whitens (bjelasa). If he had been counting the steps in Bjelasica, either in summer or in the early autumn, he would have probably called it Green mountain, because one must be charmed by its mellowness and beautiful colours, dominated by conifer trees.
Bjelasica or 50 shades of green. Bjelasica with its sweet character has good soul which welcomes all travelers. It boasts with six lakes “mountain eyes“, in which all its irresistable beauty reflects...
But, enough talking. Break is over – the second cycling day starts from Štitarica at an altitude of 809 meters. We move by asphalt road to the intersection with the main road Mojkovac – Podgorica, where we turn right towards capital of Montenegro. The next 1,7 kilometers are characterized by increased traffic, which requires additional attention. At 1,7 kilometers, we turn left from the main road – we will see the sign with marked turning onto the bridge over Tara river in National Park „Biogradska gora“ and long ascent towards Bjelasica peaks begins.
We pass by the auto camp located on the right side, then under the railway overpass and 600 meters from the bridge we come to the gate in a place called Kraljevo kolo. The name is a memory of the former Serbian King Milutin Nemanjid (1253 – 1321), who had a summer residence in this area. The gare represents the entrance to the National Park and a ticket will be charged. Biogradska gora is the first Montenegrin National Park, declared a zone of protection (Duke's preserve) back in 1878, during the reign of King Nikola, only six years after Yellowstone was declared the first National Park in the United States.
After the gate, our ascent starts with serpentine road through beautiful deciduous and evergreen rainforest of Biogradska gora – one of three remaining on the soil of Europe – which boasts in abundance of shades of green. At the beginning of ascent (3,6 kilometers of our route), we will find a spring with low water flow on the right side, which is one of many springs that can be found on this mountain. After 5,7 kilometers of ride (3,1 kilometer after the gate), with the ascent of 5-6% which offers real warm up, we arrive at 1110 meters above sea level and reach Biogradsko
102 lake, the pearl of Bjelasica mountain. The lake is clear and bright, as it picked up morning dew from all over the world.
Foto 25: Rainforest of Biogradska gora Foto 26: Biogradsko lake
Once upon a time, according to the legend of the lake (about Cain and Abel from Bjelasica) shared fields of two brothers existed in this place. Family harmony ended by an argument over the separation of the wheat which further resulted in frastricid – younger brother killed the older one. Crushed by grief, his mother cursed the killer, the land opened by the force of her curse and the hole was filled with tears. So that’s how Biogradsko lake became…
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Rainforest in the basin of Biogradska and Jezerštica rivers, with the surface area of 1600 ha, was left to spontaneous development and in some parts it is completely impassable. It represents an unique example of the evolution of different forest tree communities. It is characterized by:
- 16 forest tree communities (dominated by beech and beech-fir);
- over 220 plant species (90 species of dendroflora);
- The most common tree species are beech, fir, spruce, maple, white ash, mountain maple and elm, black alder;
- The age of individual trees is estimated to be over 400 years old, some of which are high over 40 and even 60 meters
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It is worth spending minutes and hours on the lake, either by walking, rowing, sunbathing or simply chilling out in this oasis where time has stopped. In the immediate vicinity there is a souvenir shop where you can find promotional material, brochures, postcards and local souvenirs, as well as bungalows, places with fireplace and firewood, national restaurant, spring water... This is also hotspot of the rainforest.
Tourists who wish to stay in the National Park for longer period, they can accomodate in one of 12 bungalows near Biogradsko lake. Every bungalow, built as a log cabin, has two beds and other elements for pleasant stay, perfectly fitting into natural environment.
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Foto 27: Souvenir shop and info point Foto 28: Bungalows
From the lake, we continue our ascent towards Dolovi Lalevida katun and viewpoint Bendovac. Asphalt road is replaced by gravel road. On a wooden info board, which you will see in front of you, there is a list of sites that you can visit on Bjelasica mountain. We follow cycling sign which directs our route towards Dolovi Lalevida katun and viewpoint Bendovac, which is located at 1774 meters above sea level above katun. At this place, you can see info board for thematic trail „Summer in katun“ which you can experience before you get to Dolovi Lalevida.
Foto 29 i 30: Directions and list of attractive locations on Bjelasica
At the beginning of our ascent towards 18 road serpentines, according to locals, we find one of the best spring waters of Bjelasica on the right side. At 6,3 kilometers of our route, by gravel ascent, we find the separation of both hiking and cycling trail towards katuns Jarčeva strana and Lanište on the left side and on the same curve yellow signpost on the right side indicates that our route goes uphill. The entire route is marked and oriented by recognizable red and white marking. Trail is solid and tough gravel road made of dirt and stones that passes through protected centuries- old forest. High above Biogradsko lake, we arrive to the location called Ganovača, where signpost above the road on the left side informs us that watchtower Lazovi can be found at 750 meters from that point. At this trail, we find numerous gullies and stream beds, which, go through rich forest of Biogradska gora. At 7,5 kilometers from the entrance to the National Park, we come to the branching, from which path on the right side leads to watchtower Lazovi which can be found at 1295 meters above sea leavel. We continue straight and leave watchtower raised in the forest on the right side.
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Foto 31: Spring of the clearest water on Bjelasica
Dirt road and stone gravel road alternate, shorter parts of the trail have an inclination over 10%, ascent increases, which becomes the most demanding part of this route and mobile phone signal is lost. Part of the road represents real test of your fitness and skills, but also the durability of your bike. And do not hesitate to – if the bike is not able to bear you, you can bear it. At 8.6 kilometers of our trail, we come to the sunlit glade Jokovača, which offers a beautiful view of the green wooded slopes of Bjelasica, its forests and peaks.
Riding through road serpentines, we come to the next yellow signpost for viewpoint Bendovac and Crna glava peak. On the next glade, we will see wooden signpost indicating direction to Krnjača and Razvršje katuns and on the right side we will find cycling signpost indicating path towards Jusin brijeg and Trešnjevik (these routers will prevent every dilemma about the route). There is a view over the teethed peaks of Bendovac covered with evergreen trees in front of us. After a short descent, we arrive at the foot of Dolovi Lalevida katun where we see info board about our location which is situated at 1724 meters above sea level. Here you can find numerous hiking trails meandering through this beautiful mountain (Bendovac, Svatovsko groblje, Crna glava).
Foto 32: View towards Bendovac peak Foto 33: Katun Dolovi Lalevida
Katun consists of two households which offer refreshment to adventurers of the mountain Bjelasica. The experience will be complemented by the herd of cows and sheep, so you can be sure of the origin of products which can be tasted. After entering katun, spring water and resting place can be found on the left side and you will see info board of one of the households – Household of the Damjanovid family (situated 800 meters from the board at first hairpin bend before leaving the katun) which provides precise information on what you can eat and at what price. When it comes to mobile phone signal, it is available at the first hut, but it is lost at the second hut and you will not be accessible for some time. If you feel exhausted after a strong ascent, do not miss to try smočani kačamak with sour milk, cottage cheese and cream, meat prepared on a traditional way... These energy bombs will give you flushing of the cheeks again.
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Foto 34 i 35: Dolovi Lalevida as perferct place for a rest
Route further leads uphill and after stonger ascent and couple of road serpentines, we come to separation which leads to the viewpoint Bendovac (1774 mnv) on the right side (there is signalization along the road), which is included in the thematic trail „Summer in katun“. There is magnificent view of Biogradsko lake from Bendovac, protectively surrounded by the woods and numerous peaks of Bjelasica. At this separation, our cycling route follows gravel road which leads straight (yellow signpost of hiking route leads us to Svatovsko groblje, which is 1,9 kilometers away) and further uphill to the area called Svatovsko groblje, at the foot of Crna lokva peak, in which rocks are whipped by the winds, as if symbolizing eternal rest of wedding guests...
Foto 36: View from Bendovac towards Biogradsko lake Foto 37: Svatovsko groblje
Older inhabitants of the region swore that exactly in this place, on a narrow saddle, two groups of wedding guests met. Arguing about the primacy of passage, spiteful did not want to give up neither of them. The argument turned into a fight and fight into battle and misfortune was brought to the both sides...
Other, still, tell that wedding guest passed through this area in the late summer, going for a bride. For the blink of an eye, good weather turned into a storm, a day into the dark night and scantily dressed guests did not survive. Anyway, whatever the time of year you encounter this area, you will feel the quiet dam, while the wind whispers the story of the past...
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Thematic trail “Summer in katun – where our traiditional products come from?“ is circular trail that captures the summer pasture lifestyle, i.e. how people lived in the past, leaving their villages in the spring and went with cattle in summer pastures where they lived until autumn or even winter and how they returned back to the village with produced cream and cottage cheese.
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The circular route starts and ends at Dolovi Lalevida katun. The route starts in Dolovi Lalevida katun, from the grassy field to the right side. After few hundred of meters, climb to Bendovac begins towards goat path for about 15 minutes and after overcoming the altitude difference of 89 meters, we come to the viewpoint. From this point, the path continues towards flat terrain and dirt path that continues in dirt vehicular road that passes along the hill, coming to a crossroad where you turn left (crossroad with the path from the direction of Svatovsko groblje). Here the path starts to lower through forest-dirt road back to the katun in the valley to the starting point.
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After the location of Svatovsko groblje, we get full mobile phone signal and riding becomes a lot easier and you will witness unforgettable views on all sides, at spacious pastures decorated with scattered trees, at peaks of Komovi and Prokletije on one side and peaks of Durmitor and Sinjajevina in the background. Canvas, a masterpiece of nature, painted with various colors, continues by dirt- gravel road next to a wooden signpost that tells us that we are at 1691 meters above sea level on Jelenak location and to stick to the left side of the road, while right side leads to Ocka. Soon, we come to the end of todays ascent at 1930 meters above sea level in the saddle called Jusin brijeg above which Crna glava peak rises. We come to the Y crossroad where our journey continues left downhill in the direction of Reljina katun and we will see signalization at wooden signpost by left turn.
Caution on the descent, because dirt road becomes gravel road due to the moving stone. At a lenght of 700 meters, path surface is particularly bad and dangerous, because the path passes a large slope where huge amounts of snow can remain until late spring. Impressive Bjelasica peaks still can be seen, but it is better to look on our road. Mobile phone signal weakens as we descend and we pass through beech grove while entering in Reljina katun, then by wooden hut and yellow signpost of hiking trail and spring which can be found slightly lower the hut on the right side. We continue moving along the gravel road downhill and 21.3 kilometers of our todays route (2,4 kilometers from the saddle of Jusin brijeg), we come to the Y crossroad near the old hut, where we turn left from the main gravel road which leads down to the right, on dirt-grassy path that directs us to the left towards Ševarinsko lake. This crossroad is somehow located as a kind of separation of the area of Reljina katun that we went through and an area called Livadice, although the area is bordered by lovely deciduous and evergreen forest. At his crossroad, we will find recognizable red-white signalization on the stone and yellow signpost of hiking tour CT1 which overlaps with this part of our route.
Foto 38 i 39: Katun Reljina and the path towards Ševarinsko lake
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At our descent towards Ševarinsko and Šiško lake, we pass by couple of houses through wooded area and our path becomes pedestrian path through which one bike can pass. On the big beech tree, we see the markings which indicates that we are on the right route and yellow sign above the marking leads us to a nearby spring, one of many spring on this mountain. Narrow road winds through deciduous forest and it is well marked by red and white markings on rocks and trees. Dirt road in wet conditions can provide a real experience of mountain biking and if you want to indulge your child's fascination with mud, just play. We come across at some mountain bays, up an down, zig-zag, but markings will not fail us. We make our way through deciduous forest and low vegetation, cycling pictogram leads us by the lower edge of Ševarinsko lake-pond and our route becomes vehicular dirt-grassy road again.
Foto 40: Ševarinsko lake
After shorter ascent near Ševarinsko lake, we enter Šiška katun which is located at 1680 meters above sea level. Marking is still visible along the road which leads through picturesque pastures and hills, which echoes of barking shepherd dogs and is rich in herds of sheep and cows scattered on the slopes of the surrounding meadows and hills and which stretches along the kilometer of our route. Katun has three springs where you can refill your bottles of water. It is a good signal on mobile phone, which occasionally disappeared during the descent from the saddle. 170 meter after we get out from the grove near Ševarinsko lake, overlapping with hiking route CT1 starts which runs from the upper side of the lake. Veliko Šiško lake of glacial origin can be found at the end of this katun, and this lake accumulates water from the melting snow, river tributaries and precipitation. Tucked below the peak called Žuber, it was named after the area known as Šiška.
Foto 41: Katun Šiška Foto 42: Veliko Šiško lake
Among mountaineers, there is a story that compass needle at Šiško lake „goes crazy“ and that metal objects are floating... Our bike with aluminium frame, however, remained firmly on the ground.
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Roads branch on the lake – marking that indicates the way straight leads in the direction of CT1 and right branching goes downhill towards Kutijevac. Our cycling trail leads right towards Kutijevci by gravel road and we come to the info board of National Park Biogradska gora which informs us that there is an exit from this protected oasis. The area is wooded and rich in streams and springs whose murmur can be heard. After 750 meters downhill, we come to the separation of the road that leads to the left and which is marked by markings on the stone and leads to hiking transversal CT1. Our route ran down at the right side towards Bubulovci and Suvodo, as indicated by the cycling pictogram on a tree.
We pass through undulating and wooded area of Kutijevci and Bubulovci katun in which we encounter near the drinking fountain on the left side of the road. We pass by the yellow hiking signpost and at 26th kilometer of our road we come to the resting place of the Forest Administration in Suvodo katun, where crossroad leading to Ursulovačko lake and Crna glava peak (continued path from which we turned in Reljina katun) and road towards Kurikude can be found. Katun is surrounded by mountain peaks over 2 000 meters and Crna Glava peak (which has the same name as the highest peak of Bjelasica above Ursulovačko lake) rises in behind to 2122 meters above sea level.
Foto 43: Katun Suvodo
After 2,4 kilometers of riding through beautiful conifer forest, from resting place in katun Suvodo and our turnoff towards Kurikude, road over the bridge separates towards Ursulovačko lake, which is located about 6 kilometers from this crossroad. This solid forest gravel road leads us through a narrow and deep valley and after few hundred meters we reach the mountain lodge Suvodo located at 1290 meters above sea level. Here you can spend the night, dine or relax next to the drinking fountain and ponds that are located in front of the mountain lodge and you can see playful family of deers along the way. At 30,3 kilometers of our road, in Kurikude, we switch to asphalt road and at 32 kilometers in the village of Lubnice, we come to the crossroad from which the right side leads to Jelovica. Our turning left further leads through picturesque village of Lubnice.
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Foto 44: Coniferous forest near mountain lodge Foto 45: village Lubnice
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Lubnice
The village of Lubnice was formed long ago, in a place nested between three mountain rivers: Jelovica, Gunjara and Suvodola, together making the fourth - Bistrica river, through whose valley our cycling adventure is also moving. It is located – as a sort of amphitheater – at plateau at about 900 meters above sea level, surrounded by the peaks of Bjelasica. It was named after „lub“ – peeled bark of spruce of fir tree, which, when wet, is put as a covering on a home and quickly hardens and becomes good thermal isolator and waterproof material.
Soil in Lubnice is good and fertile, and its inhabitants, besides agriculture, were also engaged in carpentry. „Kačarenje“ (making wooden tubs for dairy products) is traditional old craft from Lubnice. Traditional architecture is also preserved and old wooden houses are the real jewel of the village. Lubnice is authentic and valuable village that offers rivers, lakes, forests, herbs and wild berries, mushrooms and great hosts, special for their hospitality, so it is not excluded to spend a day or two in this picturesque village if you want to.
And if you are lucky, perhaps you find hidden and centuries misplaced treasures in nearby Županova cave, the only trace of the former mayor, the ruler of this area.
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From here to Berane, we ride by new asphalt road 8,8 kilometers from our turning through the suburbs of Berane, Gornji Lužac. Descending by asphalt road towards Berane has also inclines of up to 10%, so we are down a little less than 300 meters above sea level in a new peaceful climate zone. We drive through the narrow valley of the river Bistrica and at 37th kilometer of our route, we will find ourselves next to the resting place that you can visit. The path through which we ride is quiet, with less traffic, and landmark is section Zdravac, which appears as a gaping jaws in front of us and represents stone guardian of this road. At 40,8 kilometer we arrive in Gornji Lužac and turn left through the village next to the distinctive red and white marking on the utility pole and masonry kiosk beneath the green slopes of Bjelasica, by the edge of the mountain. From here, we ride straight through the village to the cemetery where we turn right, then by the cemetery, leave orchard to the right side and at the next crossroad we remain on the main road that leads to the left. After 600 meters, we come to a crossing to the left, but we are keeping our road that leads through the village to Đurđevi stupovi Monastery. The village through which we are moving is called Dolac;
110 we are moving next to the gardens, yards, everyday life of inhabitants and we come across a few connections and crossroads, where we continue straight up to the complex of Đurđevi stupovi Monastery. Besides monastery, we follow the main road that slightly turns to the right but leave a sharp turn to the right into side road and follow the main road straight to Sušica stream for some 450 meters to the main road at which we entered by turning left (44,5 kilometers of our route). We are moving by the main road for 400 meters until we get to the large crossroad with a turn towards Rožaje, right across the bridge over the river Lim. Thus we circled cycling route 45 kilometers long.
Foto 46: Đurđevi stupovi Monastery
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Đurđevi stupovi Monastery
Situated on the left side of the river Lim, under Rastavac, just above underground river, „where crystal clear cold water springs“, Đurđevi stupovi Monastery witnesses eight-centuries long turbulent history of this region. Its founder was the ruler of Budimlje, Stefan Prvoslav – whose mortal remains rest here – the son of mayor Tihomir, a nephew of Nemanja, founder of the royal Nemanjid family. Completed in 1213, shortly after its founding, the monastery became the seat of episcopacy of Budimlje. It was named after the lateral towers that were erected along the narthex of the church. Over time, it became a assembly point of Vasojevidi, where important political and military decisions were made.
During its existance, it experienced destructions and devastations and the most serious was in 1862, during warfare of Vasojevidi with the Turks. „The pieces of cannonballs were spraying against its walls and the fire inside it was raising recollections and memories of the past“ – wrote the chronicler of Vasojevidi, Mr. Radoslav-Jagoš Vešovid in 1935. „The roof and iconostais of Nemanjic was burned down for the third time. Therefore everything that could be burned was burned to the walls, all prominent values were destroyed, marble church floor was removed and tombstones with inscriptions were broken. By renovation in further years, the church established the form that previously existed with the base of the boat and semi-byzantic look.” Monastery was destroyed in World War I as well, when the Austro-Hungarian army converted it in kitchen and military bedroom...
From the all former monastery complex, only the church of St. George remained today.
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The route of the mountain transversal CT-1.
Part of the marked mountain transversal CT-1 passes through the vastness of Bjelasica mountain. This transversal was opened in 1987 and the total lenght of 120 kilometers leads throught the most beautiful mountain of the continental part of Montenegro. The starting point of the movement is at children resting point called Veruša, where it continues through Kučke mountains, Maglič and Komovi, Bjelasica and Sinjajevina and ends in Žabljak. It is tagged with 22 control point. Entire route can be passed for 6 days by moderate speed.
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ITINERARY 3
Berane – village Laze – village Vrbica – village Trpeza – saddle Turjak – village Kalače – village Gornji Bukelj – mountain lodge Grope (eco katun Hajla) – village Bandžov – Rožaje
Start: Berane
Finish: Rožaje
Total length: 60km or circular route 75,8 km
Overall ascent: 1.243 m
Highest point: 1946 masl
Lowest point: 703 masl
Time: all day
Difficulty: 5/5
Surface: asphalt and gravel road
Markings: red-white round and belt markings
UTM waypoints:
1. 34T 4745444 407487, 679 m – turn right at the crossroad to Rožaje 2. 34T 4745665 408457, 696 m – Hard Discount Lakovid 3. 34T 4750307 413302, 818 m – spring 4. 34T 4749848 413468, 785 m – left separation to municipality Petnjica 5. 34T 4749495 414281, 745 m – left separation to village Laze 6. 34T 4749440 415137, 784 m – left separation to village Vrbica 7. 34T 4750148 416432, 848 m – spring 8. 34T 4750810 417452, 903 m – right separation to village of Trpezi 9. 34T 4749676 420505, 1071 m – left separation to Skenderska Kalica
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10. 34T 4748996 421047, 1125 m – spring 11. 34T 4745908 423029, 1346 m – saddle Turjak, spring 12. 34T 4745820 425316, 1218 m – village Kalače 13. 34T 4744685 426017, 1115 m – main road, turn left to Rožaje 14. 34T 4738923 433057, 1240 m – turn right, gravel road, wooden bridge 15. 34T 4738312 432908, 1284 m – right separation to village Gornji Bukelj 16. 34T 4735264 431210, 1787 m – continue straight, right separation for village Gornji Bukelj 17. 34T 4735269 430542, 1900 m – continue straight, left path across the hill leads to Dafa Hajla 18. 34T 4735114 429875, 1892 m – Mountain lodge Grope and eco katun Hajla 19. 34T 4736929 428887, 1514 m – village Bandžov 20. 34T 4738386 427408, 1220 m – turn right across the bridge to Rožaje 21. 34T 4738797 427060, 1192 m - turn right across the bridge to Rožaje 22. 34T 4742366 430065, 1051 m – crossroad near hotel Aldi
Hajla. Although the grammar will try to convince you otherwise, her name rhymes with serenity.
In geography textbooks you will find that, as a branch of northeast Prokletije massif, it separates Montenegro and Kosovo. However, separation is not in its nature. It connects. It connects wild Ibar forests and Metohian tameness. It connects sky and the valley. It connects the man and the nature.
You will be so lonely on Hajla. And yet, so full of the world. And „carefree, light and gentle“, you will wish that, as in Sumatra by Miloš Crnjanski, „caress distant hills and iceberg mountains, gentle, by hand.“
Foto 47 i 48: Coniferous forest and Ibar river spring
But how did we get to Hajla?
We start the third cycling day on the main road Andrijevica – Berane (from direction of previous day and crossed Bjelasica mountain). After 400 meters we turn right from the direction of Berane to the another main road that leads to Rožaje and Ped over the bridge on the river Lim. To avoid any confusion, traffic sign indicating the direction to Rožaje will help us. So, we just need to follow traffic signs.
We pass through the village of Rudeš, over the above mentioned bridge and after 1,1 kilometer we come to the crossroad where we turn left to the regional road Berane – Rožaje
113 towards Petnjica. At this crossroad, on the signpost next to the road, we will notice distinctive red and white marking. From here we continue to move parallel to the main road and continue to the village of Rudeš and soon after 400 meters we arrive at the discount store „Lakovid“. The opportunity to, if you have not previously done so, fill your water and energy reserves . You will need them. We turn left and keep straight without losing from the main asphalt regional road through the village of Budimlje.
After 3,3 kilometer of riding from the beginning of our tour, we will find cycling board on the right side next to Brnjica stream, which informs us about the local cycling trails. Worth to remember and maybe try these trails someday. However, we are focused on our task today – Hajla. We are moving straight to it, by the main regional road which leads us to the first major physical challenge – road serpentine ascent through the area called Šume to the saddle called Turjak at 1350 meters above sea level.
First we will encounter plateau called Dinje which extends at 908 meters above sea level. At the left side, do not miss to visit nice viewpoint, with turnoff that leads to the village in the area of Police (5,1 kilometers of our route). We continue by the school, through the villages, houses and orchards; through, as famous Serbian writer Pavid said „area painted with tea“ – area in which diverse life stories and destinies cross each other, area which is the image of the soul, history and tradition of the local population and this region.
Foto 49: Village in the area of Police
For the first 8,5 kilometers, we are moving towards solid asphalt road of narrowed category and after climbing at 908 meters above sea leavel, we gently descent for 3 kilometers. We are passing along the way drinking fountain with resting place on the right side and then turning to the left towards one of the youngest Montenegrin municipality called Petnjica (at 12,9 kilometers we stick to the right curve). The route goes through wooded area to the valley of Vrbička river (740 meters above sea level) and bridge over it, from where new ascent starts, this time to the village of Trpezi at 950 meters above sea level. All the time we have good signal on our mobile phones.
We stick to the main regional road. At 15,4 kilometers, we find a separation for the village called Vrbica on the right side. After 2.9 kilometers we will see crossroad on the left side, from which the road goes to villages Murovac and Poroče. Our road right leads to saddle towards Turjak. After 200 meters we come to a turnoff on the right side towards dispersed village of Trpezi and ethno village „Vrelo“. Do not hesitate, if you have enough time – stop by and see how friendly host used the natural goods of his beautiful homeland. He primarily used Trpeška river, beside which he grew
114 up and where rolling mill for cloth and watermill with two winches of his grandfather one worked. Nice atmosphere and delicious local specialties will make your stay pleasant.
Foto 50: Ethno village Vrelo in Trpezi Foto 51: Village Kalice scenery
We are still moving, occasionally passing through forested area and after 12,5 kilometers of pedaling, we go uphill to the saddle Turjak which rises at 1350 meters above sea level (we passed the ascent of 16 kilometers). It is right time to take a break next to the drinking fountain and resting place, to relax our legs, but more than that – to relax eyes and soul. You will have beautiful view over pine forest and in the distance you can see peaks of Bjelasica and Hajla. Mixed coinferous forests, spring waters, hills, depressions, coves, sinkholes, plenty of greenery, two rivers with their tributaries... We understand why residents of Bihor call Turjak „beauty“ , arguing that this mountain with its environment should be declared National Park. In addition to beauty, Turjak its unwanted fame owes to numerous battles that took place on its slopes. Monument on the top reminds of the one that took place in the period of World War II...
Foto 52: Saddle Turjak Foto 53: Village Kalače
From Turjak, our road goes downhill. We pass through a quiet area and over the hill Slijepa glava, through the village of Kalače towards which the road branches at 36,7 kilometers. We further continue by pastures and meadows until the intersection with the part Berane – Rožaje (6,5 kilometers from the descent from the saddle Turjak to the crossroad with the main road). Here we turn left and enter to the main road Berane – Rožaje, by which we move cautiously paying attention to the relatively heavy traffic for the next 8,4 kilometers. We pass by motel „Grand“, restaurant „Duga“, towards Dimiškin bridge (by which we can optionally go back), through Rožaje and following traffic signalization, we ride through the city towards Ped and Kosovska Mitrovica. At 8,4 kilometer (45,7 kilometer of today's route), we turn right through the settlement called Bandžovo brdo. We
115 are moving uphill for 5,8 kilometers and in the place called Donji Bukelj, we come off the main road towards Ped right across the bridge towards Mountain lodge Grope.
At this turnoff on the sharp left hairpin bend, you will see distinctive red and white marking on the rock as well as drawn arrow which will point you to the Mountain lodge Grope. At this crossroad, you will find hiking trails towards Ahmica peak, Mountain lodge Štedim, Baranske huts and Kaluđerski laz(at the crossroad you will see yellow cycling signpost), so this is an opportunity to maybe optionally choose some trail.
Foto 54: Bridge on the right side leads towards Hajla Foto 55: Bukeljska river
Here in Donji Bukelj, Bukeljska and Lazanjska rivers merge and we cross the concrete bridge and go down into the thick conifer forest. For the first time during the day, our cycling route is switched to a gravel road, by which ascent at the foot of Hajla at 1946 meters above sea level begin (towards crossing Dafa Hajla with Kosovo). Mobile phone signal is still available. We are moving by good gravel road along Bukeljska river, near the village called Gornji Bukelj, which will stay on the right side behid the forest and further for 4,5 kilometers (distinctive signalization marks and directs the route) to the crossroad where the road on the left side branches towards Ahmica peak and Mountain lodge Grope (58 kilometers of our today's tour). The route leads to the right, the ascent is stronger, harder, more demanding. Now we are already moving by very bad gravel road, built for the needs of the local forestry company „Gornji Ibar“. Once upon a time, according to the locals, narrow- gauge train passed this way, lowering enormous trunk to Rožaje...
Foto 56: Village Gornji Bukelj
And our path becomes so steep that in some parts you will be tempted to push the bike beside you. The ascent in some places substantially outweighs 10, even 15%; gravel road is made of big stones that are formed by abundant water and due to numerous watercourses, large number of
116 wooden bridges, i.e. „trademarks“ of this landscape was built. Mobile phone signal dissapears here. After less than a kilometer, we reach the crossroad at which path to the left leads further one kilometer towards crossing to Kosovo, where our cycling route joins cycling route „Via Dinarica“ from Kosovo side. At this point, 60 kilometers of today's cycling tour is completed.
However, at this crossroad you have the option to turn right and make circular tour back to Rožaje – all for bikers who are looking for adventure! If you opt for extra mileage and intoxication of beauty of the landscape – join us. We move uphill on the right side, through glade by unmarked road to the saddle called Brahimov brijeg. While the altitude increases, the vegetation becomes lower and scattered. Conifers are no longer silent accompaniment. The road is bumpy and curvy; on the right side, below the main road, we will see the separation which leads to the village of Gornji Bukelj (from here you can return back to this village next to which we have already passed). Then we see marking and turn on the left side leading across the hill to the crossborder with Kosovo - Dafa Hajla. If we stick to our path, we soon emerge after 2,5 kilometers of riding from the original optional crossroad, at the saddle Brahimov brijeg (1910 meters above sea level). We get a prize for this effort – an impressive view of Ahmica peak, peaks of Štedim in the backgroun on the east and in front of us, beautiful reefs of Hajla, „camel mountain“.
Foto 57: View towards peak Ahmica Foto 58: Slopes of Hajla
All your problems, unresolved dilemmas, small and large traumas and frustrations will be reduced to the size of non-recognition. Impressed by the landscape and its magnificence, you wil feel so small, insignificant, before you take a deep breath and become one with the mountain...
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During the Ice Age, Hajla was covered with glaciers. By warming, glaciers slowly descended to the north, leaving behind the traces in the form of cavities, by which mountain is furrowed and which became trails for karst springs.
Due to specific geographical and geological, climatic and ecological conditions, Hajla is like a botanical garden, hugging a large number of rare, endemic and relict plant species on its slopes. Some of them survived even the ice age. Alpine and snow edelweiss is a floral jewel of Hajla. It grows and flourishes at altitudes above 2200 meters above sea level. They represent the part of romantic history of the area – in the name of love and devotion, young men gave edelweiss to their girlfriends. Besides the beauty, the flower has medicinal properties as well and has been used in folk medicine for a variety of diseases such as bronchities, tuberculosis and diphtheria.
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Besides edelweiss, on the slopes of Hajla you will come across alpine forget-me (a flower that was added to the list of state symbols of Alaska in 1917), fresinica (Iceland's national flower), jeremičar, orchid, carnation...
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From saddle Brahimov brijeg, a kilometer of descent starts also through unmarked road towards Mountain lodge Grope and katun with the same name, which seemed to be dutifully crouched below the ridge of Hajla (2403 meters above sea level). Modern mountain lodge was built in 2008 in this place in a memory of tragically killed mountaineer Safet Mavrid Daka, member of Mountain Club Sandžak from Novi Pazar, who lost his life at this place in January 1997...
Foto 59 i 60: Mountain lodge Grope and eco katun Hajla on the slopes of the mountain
After 3,7 kilometers of descent towards Mountain lodge Grope, we arrive in katun – village Bandžov (1473 meters above sea level). Additional caution is necessary during descending, because road to the village passes through the forest by route which is furrowed and hard to drive. Trail is attractive in extreme way – depending on what type of riding you prefer. In the picturesque katun – village, which is very active until late autumn, you can go and relax, warm up and drink a tea by the fire in Culture Club „Dermando“, which – imagine – has its own modest, but not negligible, library. Warm mix of stone and untreated wood, the atmosphere, which will evoke the atmosphere of genuine hospitality and great variety of traditional dishes – dare not to try kačamak! – will make you quickly forget the physical fatigue and enjoy in arrangement of collage impressions...
Foto 61 i 62: Village Bandžov
From here we have additional 9,8 kilometers of road through a vast wooded area. After 3,5 kilometers of riding from Bandžov katun, we come to the crossroad at which our route leads to the
118 right towards Rožaje and follow the river Ibar until we round a circular tour at Dimiškin bridge at the entrance to Rožaje. By this circular option, this one-day cycling tour comprised 75,8 kilometers. It was worth it.
Service providers on biking trail
Information and contacts
Recommended accommodation, restaurants, agrotourism, producers of honey and other local products of the North of Montenegro.
First day – On the waves of Sinjajevina
Restaurant Izvor, Motički gaj, Jezera, Žabljak, Aco Radulovid, tel: 069 308 805
Restaurant „Izvor“ is situated by the main road, on the fifth kilometer from Žabljak city center. In the mountainous environment, with a beautiful view on Durmitor massif, visitors can choose from the wide range of dishes of national cuisine such as homemade pies, kačamak, cicvara, potato soup, smoked hanger, sausages and košet from family meat drier facility, cream, cottage cheese and honey from local producers, while cooked lamb represents specialty of this area. Modern glow of today and the charm of old times encounter at this place, while Durmitor view will leave no one indifferent.
Household of the Čurovid family, katun Čurovida, tel: 069 335 848
The Čurovid family from village of Tušina lives in katun Odrag since the time of the reign of King Nikola I Petrovid. Remaining royal to traditional life in katun, eight-member family along with 200 sheep and 12 cattle live in katun from mid-May to mid-October. While you taste delicious homemade food, they gladly talk about family history, interesting events from the past and will not forget to give you to try „jomuža“, mountain ice cream for whose preparation snow and fresh milk are mixed. Natural attractions such as spring of Bukovica river and Bukovičko lake can be found nearby, as well as Bijela Monastery, waterfall of Bijela river and many others.
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Household of Ilija and Danka Popovid, katun Okrugljak, tel: 069 255 464
When it comes to livestock, katun Okrugljak is considered to be one of the richest katuns in Montenegro and the Popovid family reside here from the beginning of June till the end of October. Visitors will have the opportunity to see how family takes care of 200 sheep and cattle and housewife Danka will show how to milk cow, make cheese and how to preserve meat and other products in traditional way, due to the lack of electricity. Meat specialties are prepared and dried by the family itself and dairy products, homemade juices, jams and teas can be served at family table. Household offers accommodation for four to five persons in two huts in katun.
Household of Vladan Vuletid, katun Okrugljak, tel: 067 317 707
The Vuletid family resides in katun from the beginning of June to the beginning of October, when they take care of 300 sheep, horses and cattle. Visitors can find out interesting facts from our host Vladan, how people used to live and how they live today and how few families still graze the cattle in traditional way here on Sinjajevina mountain. This kind host won many awards for quality of dairy products and lamb and traditional dishes can always be found on the table. Household offers accommodation for 10 to 15 travelers, and, in order to completely experience the mountain, they also offer horse riding.
Household of Nikola Moračanin, Borova Glava, tel: 069 943 185
Household of the Moračanin family, which resides in katun Borova Glava from the end of May to the end of September, unlike other families in this and nearby katuns, does not reside here due to cattle grazing. Moreover, they have only one cow and stay on the mountain for leisure, clean air and
120 climate, which can be a remedy for some health problems. Housewife usually serves dairy products, blueberry juice, thyme, St.John's wort and sallow teas and visitors can taste traditional dishes, while for cooked lamb, they must be announced at least one day in advance.
Family cottage provides accommodation for up to seven people.
Household of Obrad Miličid, Borova Glava, tel: 069 474 592
Household of Obrad Miličid resides in katun Borova Glava from the end of May to the end of October. The family takes care of 22 cows and 180 sheep and visitors can find out how demanding is to keep huge herd of cattle, but also can learn how to milk cow or sheep, make cottage cheese and do other activities at the farm. The Miličid family will serve homemade juices, pies made of nettle, meat and cheese, and unavoidable on the table are dairy products – sheep and cow milk, sour milk, cheese and cream.
Household of Vukota Vujisid, Borova Glava, tel: 069 464 938 i 069 601 747
At the slopes of Sinjajevina, in Borova Glava katun, the Vujisid family resides for years in the period from May to mid-October. In this humble village household, visitors can taste homemade products such as cheese, beef and pork ham, milk, vegetables from the garden etc. The area is rich in blueberries, therefore housewife makes homemade blueberry juice, but do not miss to taste plum and apple brandy as well. This place is not covered with mobile phone signal and electricity, so visitors will feel what life used to be like in Montenegrin katunsand realize that this way of life some families still practice today.
Eco village Dorid, Podbišde-Gacka, Mojkovac, Radoje Dorid, tel: 067 353 375
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Eco village Dorid is established in a quiet place intended for relaxation and offers many opportunities for recreation. When it comes to accommodation, offer comprises three comfortable and modern houses. Farm also consists of summer house and small playground, which makes this area perfect for families. The area is rich in mushrooms and friendly hosts can organize collecting and preparing of porcini, chanterelle, morels and champignons and in addition to traditional dishes and products, you can taste juices made from Siberian chokeberry (aronia) and raspberry, collected from the family plantation, which is located nearby.
Rakočevid Estate (Hotel & Resort Gacka), Podbišde, Mojkovac, Vlatko Rakočevid, tel: 069 022 286
Rakočevid Estate, hidden in the village of Gacka, represents true paradise for nature lovers. On large farm, accommodation is organized in various facilities – houses, apartments and bungalows, and visitors can enjoy the taste of dishes from national cuisine in a restaurant and the summer garden. For those who want extra comfort, there is a spa centre with pool, sauna and gym and in the immediate vicinity basketball, football and tennis court can be found. Offered activities comprise rafting, paragliding, biking, hiking and jeep safari and there is a possibility of renting bike equipment.
Second day – Through green Bjelasica mountain
Motel „Tara“, Kraljevo kolo, Mojkovac, Ranka Palevid, tel: 069 447 012
Motel Tara, opened in 2008, is located in a very attractive place, five kilometers away from Mojkovac and three kilometers from the turnoff to Biogradsko lake. Located on the bank of Tara, most beautiful and cleanest river in Europe, this motel with accommodation capacity of eight rooms representes cozy and intimate place for a vacation in the heart of Montenegro. Modern restaurant on the ground floor can accommodate 100 people, and when the weather is nice, you can sit in the summer garden in the shade and try some specialties such as smoked hanger from family production.
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Restaurant „Dobre Vode“, Sjerogošte, Kolašin, Sveto Vukidevid, tel: 068 050 200
In place called Sjerogošte, in municipality of Kolašin, Restaurant Dobre Vode is situated on the bank of the river Tara and it is located near the National Park Biogradska gora. Its convenient location, interior in ethno style and friendly staff are reasons why guests keep coming back to the restaurant Dobre Vode. Delicious national dishes and local drinks will be served on a small terrace overlooking the river and visitors will be able to taste homemade layered cheese which is typical for this region, grilled lamb and trout prepared by special recipes.
National park Biogradska gora, tel: 068 898 303
National Park Biogradska gora is located in the central part of Bjelasica mountain range. The largest part of the Park consists of rainforest reserve and it is one of the oldest protected areas. In addition to Biogradsko lake which is located in the center of Biogradska gora, visitors have the opportunity to visit five glacial lakes on this mountain. National Park consists of tourist resort with a total of 12 double and triple bungalows and campsite is located nearby. Here you can rent a bike equipment, boats, kayaks and hiking sticks, and for all questions and concerns, rangers of the National Park are always at your disposal.
Household of the Janketid family - Konoba Dolovi, Dolovi Lalevida, tel: 067 9167 681 i 067 614 298
The Janketid family resides in katun Dolovi Lalevida from the beginnig of June to late September when they welcome guests from all over the world. Fluent in English and French, they will be happy to provide the necessary guidance and information about the area. Among the local products, visitors will be offered by juices made from forest fruits, brandy, honey, jams and teas from nearby
123 meadows. In addition to traditional dishes, visitors will have the opportunity to taste the trout from family pond.
If visitors wish to spend the night on the mountain, there are three accommodation units with two beds and families with children have a special privilege, because the farm has playground for children.
Household of the Damjanovid family - Konoba Damjanovida, Dolovi Lalevida, tel: 069 287 675
The Damjanovid family resides in katun Dolovi Lalevida from early June to mid-October. Hosewife Stojka gladly serves homemade dairy products and all interested guests can attend the process of milking cows, making cheese or some traditional dishes. When it comes to food, housewife emphasizes that they gladly meet the wishes of all the guests, who can choose between meat and vegetarian menu.
All accommodation units are fully adapted to the requirements of guests, most of whom are cyclists, so visitors can park their two-wheelers on safe. Soon, this househould will have the accommodation offer consisting of beds filled with straw, for those who want to experience spirit of the past and the way of life in summer pasture that was practiced for years.
Household of Stefan Rakovid, katun Reljina, tel: 067 342 690
Katun Reljina is perfectly positioned for hiking tours because Pešida lake, Šiško lake, Ursulovačko lake, Šavarina and Crna Glava peak are located in its vicinity. Host Stefan Rakovid, as ranger of the National Park Biogradska gora will gladly take you on a tour of nearby nature attractions. If you want to spend the night in this part of Bjelasica mountain, you will find bungalows equipped with two single beds, as well as holiday house for four people. Housewife will serve homemade products and you will have the opportunity to see how, due to lack of electricity, nearby mountain stream with cold water can serve as a fridge for storing food.
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Household of Slavica Dubak, katun Šiška, tel: 067 417 711
Household of the Dubak family is situated in katun Šiška, where they reside from June to October. Location of the household is ideal because it is located near Šiško and Ševarinsko lake, therefore represents ideal place for refreshment after hiking tours. Family lives in fully functional old hut, which is hard to find nowadays. In addition to livestock, the family is into beekeeping, so guests can also try meadow honey. Housewife Slavica is there to make the atmophere even better with traditional appetizers and to tell you interesting stories related to this area, while visitors will be able to try quince jam.
Household of Šekularac Radojka, Suvodo, tel: 067 368 940
The Šekularac family resides in katun Suvodo from May to early October. During their stay in katun, family takes care of five cows, a few goats, pigs, chickens, horse and bees. Hosts will gladly serve you homemade dairy products and honey and when it comes to the main course, housewife suggests kačamak, fritters, stuffed cabbage rolls, meat pies, corn bread and beans. For those guests who are curious and eager for new experiences, there is a possibility to attend milking cows, making cheese or horseback riding. Household offers accommodation for up to five people.
Mountain Lodge Suvodo, Suvodo, Berane, Radoslav Šekularac, tel: 067 439 687
Surrounded by pine forest, mountain lodge Suvodo provides everything necessary for hiking groups and all travelers who happen to be in this part of Bjelasica. The restaurant offers local dairy products and mountain tea and trout is on everyday menu, since fish pond can be found nearby. Boiled lamb
125 represent the specialty of the region and can be served to visitors. When it comes to accommodation, capacity of this lodge comprises 20 beds and 30 sleeping bags, thus lodge can accommodate large group of hikers who will enjoy the cozy mountain ambiance.
Household „Tri izvora”, Lubnice, Berane, Slavko Obradovid, tel: 067 508 456,
In household „Tri izvora“ which is located in the hamlet Aluge in the village of Lubnice, visitors have the opportunity to experience village in a different way. While resting in the shade, surrounded by hundreds of different types of fruit trees, the Obradovid family will try to make your visit complete by serving you homemade liqueurs and juices as well as fresh wild strawberry jam and brandy from all sorts of fruits that grow on their farm.
If you want to stay longer, family house can accommodate up to six people and due to the environment and nature, it seems like perfect place for a holiday.
Rural household Kljaljid house (Kuda Kljajida), Lubnice
Family house over a hundred years old, where you can find items from the cradle in which all family members slept to objects such as molds for making sandals, original fabrics and objects from a distant period, is protected by a hill called Stubica and tucked in the village of Lubnice. As you watch this family of six working around the farm, you want to help them in picking raspberries, squeezing juices, extracting honey... Beekeeping tradition of the family, as well as organic production of fruits and vegetables led to creation of a wide range of local products. No visitor will remain indifferent while visiting the village of Lubnice and farm of the Kljajid family.
Hotel Luka’s, Berane
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Hotel Luka’s is located near the city center, not far from the main roads and in the immediate vicinity of tourist attractions such as Đurđevi stupovi monastery, which is one of the oldest monasteries in this area. This hotel, which perfectly fits into the environment, represents ideal place for both business people and tourists who choose to visit the north of Montenegro. Hotel has ten comfortable and luxurious rooms where guests will be able to completely relax. Recognized for its quality and varied cuisine which consists of national and international dishes, the menu has more than 30 specialties.
Hotel „S”, Berane, Alen Skenderovid, tel: 069 511 551
Hotel „S“ is located in the center of Berane, near the most attractive tourist sights. The hotel has ten double rooms, four of which have an extra bed. The rooms are comfortable and modern, equipped to meet the requirements of all types of guests. You can enjoy dishes of national cuisine in the restaurant. Grilled dishes are recommended, while trout from the family pond stands as a specialty. Friendly staff that is constantly available to guests makes staying in this hotel particularly pleasant.
Hotel „Vidikovac“, Berane
Hotel „Vidikovac“ is located in the center of Berane, near the bus station. It was opened in 1995 and represents comfortable and warm place to rest. Accommodation consists of eight comfortable rooms with total capacity of 16 beds. Cyclists have a special benefit because there is a separate storage room for their bike equipment. The hotel is located close to the major cultural and tourist attractions of the city, and friendly staff is there to help you with further guidance. The hotel boasts excellent grilled dishes.
Hotel „Il Sole“, Berane
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Modern hotel „Il Sole“ is located at the entrance to the city of Berane and operates since 2009. This hotel can offer 26 comfortable rooms that are equipped to the highest hotel standards. Within this hotel, there is a private parking and special privilege provided to cyclists is a safe place for disposal of their two-wheelers and equipment. In addition to the kindness and hospitality, hotel „Il Sole“ is recognized for delicious food and numerous dishes of national and international cuisine. The hotel is located close to the natural and tourist attractions of the city.
Third day – In the arms of Hajla
Etno selo „Vrelo”, Trpezi, Petnjica, Elis Skenderovid, tel: 069 085 167
Ethno village Vrelo, located in the village of Trpezi in the municipality of Petnjica and which is 19 kilometers away from Berane, offers a stay in a pleasant and quiet environment. The facility is open only during the summer touristic season, starting in July, when it offers accommodation in 12 comfortable rooms. Within ethno village, there are two swimming pools for those who want to relax and cool down during hot summer days. When it comes to food, in addition to traditional dishes, trout from the nearby fish pond can be prepared under the bell, on the grill or in clay pots. As refreshment, there is juice made from siberian aronia grown by the owners.
Household of Izet Osmanovid, Kalica, Petnjica, tel: 069 423 230
The Osmanovid family lives in katun Kalica throughout the year. The family house can accommodate up to four people, in the period from the first of May until the first of November. In this traditional household, visitors can taste homemade juices, teas and traditional dishes such as pies with potatoes, spinach and cheese, masanice with corn flour and specialty of this area is the so-called
128 juice with peppers, i.e. sour milk prepared with peppers. If the group wants to visit the home of Osmanovid family, it is necessary to be announced two days in advance.
Household of Bajram Skenderovid, Kalica, Petnjica, tel: 069 622 969
Visitors can visit household of the Skenderovid family in katun Kalica which is situated in the municipality of Petnjica, in the period from May to September. This family will be happy to accommodate tourists and serve domestic fruit products, such as blueberry, cornel berry and aronia juices, different kinds of tea from nearby meadows, jams, compote, sweets, various types of brandy and sour water from the wild pear. In addition to traditional dishes, Skenderovid family can offer goat meat, lamb or beef meat on a spit or under the bell and as a treat for the end, they will serve you homemade cake – gurabije.
Zeleni raj, resort, Rasadnik, Rožaje, Ismet Mujevid, tel 051 275 193, 069 051 187 i 068 117 912
Eco resort „Zeleni raj“ is located at the entrance of Rožaje and hidden among the conifers. Near Županica river, hidden among the conifers, this oasis was made for all nature lovers. The accommodation offers two suites, four double rooms, one bungalow with double bed and camping on the estate is allowed. National restaurant can be found on the ground floor, which is decorated as a folk museum and every exposed object hides an interesting story. Friendly host organizes trips, while picking mushrooms and preparing food in nature will allow you to experience this region in a special way.
Restaurant-motel „Duga“, Rasadnik, Rožaje, Asim Mujevid, tel: 068 350 600
Motel „Duga“ was opened in 1991 and is located three kilometes from the city of Rožaje. This motel comprises seven equipped and functional rooms with private bathrooms, while in the restaurant you
129 will find out that this motel is especially famous for traditional food prepared by chefs with years- long experience. The most famous are mushroom dressings: made from porcini, chanterelles and champignons and this area is very rich in mushrooms. When the wather is nice, guests can enjoy on the terrace of the restaurant.
Motel „Grand“, Rasadnik, Rožaje, Adil Kalač, tel: 069 465 539
Family motel „Grand“, located on the main road, three kilometers away from the town of Rožaje, is established in 2005. Perfectly fitted in the environment, this motel offers 17 modern and comfortable rooms with private bathrooms and a separate garage which is intended for cyclists for storing their equipment. The restaurant offers grilled dishes, while warm welcome, friendly staff, as well as homely and positive atmosphere make motel „Grand“ wonderful place for a break.
Hotel “Aldi”, Rožaje, Alma Kujovid, tel: 067 619 204 i 051 271 036
Hotel „Aldi“ is perfectly positioned in a pine forest and located at the entrance to Rožaje, on the crossroad leading to natural attractions – mountain Hajla and spring of the river Ibar, therefore stay in this hotel is suitable for tourists and all nature lovers. The hotel is gladly visited by locals because of delicious food and specialties such as pataplinke, spinach and apple pies etc. The hotel works all year round and comprises 16 modern and comfortable rooms which meet the requirements of all guests, while hospitality and kindness of the staff make your vacation more enjoyable.
Hotel „Rožaje“, Rožaje
Located in the city center, luxury hotel „Rožaje“ represents a special tourist place in the north of Montenegro. In addition to accommodation which consists of 33 rooms, equipped in accordance
130 with the highest standards, there is a restaurant in the ground floor and beautiful garden which is opened during summer months. The hotel offers the most authentic Turkish bath – hamam – in which each visitor must enjoy and a variety of massages performed by trained personnel will make you feel completely relaxed throughout your holiday.
Millenium Appartments, Rožaje, Mirela Bahovid, tel: 068 166 119 i 051 274 431
Restaurant and appartments Millenium are located in the center of Rožaje, not far from the main pedestrian zone of the city. Accommodation capacity consists of five rooms with 15 beds, and cyclists have special benefit because they have safe storage for their equipment. Appartment location is extremely convenient, since it is located near tourist and historical attractions of the city such as Kučanska mosque, local museum Ganida tower and many others. When it comes to food, in addition to traditional dishes, cooked ham and winter salad are considered to be specialty, and hosts point out that they are glad to adapt food and other services to the requirements of guests.
Grill restaurant “Kero”, Rožaje, Ernes Kero Kadrovid, tel: 051 273 235, 069 373 033 i 067 273 033
Restaurant Kero, which has been operating for a quarter of a century, is situated on bank of the river Ibar. The Kadrovid family, widely known for their kindness and hospitality, but also for their cuisine based on grilled dishes, will certainly not leave you indifferent. Specialties of the house are devapi and steak, in addition to serving other dishes from meat menu, whose ingredients are carefully chosen from local producers. Sour milk of a specific flavor is served during meals and at the end, as a dessert, you can try tufahije.
Household of the Kurtagid family, Rožaje, tel: 069 904 030
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If you want to visit a family that keeps the tradition alive and where every part of the household is pervaded by history and spirit of previous times, it is the right time to visit the Kurtagid family. A house that was built in traditional oriental style in 1924 can be found on family estate and represents an authentic copy of the architectural style that existed in this region for a long time. Rooms for serving guests are located in an old house, but up to 12 people can also enjoy in the yard, in the shade of the trees. When it comes to food, do not miss to try the baked cabbage rolls prepared in horseradish and vine leaves, boiled vea land lamb meat with white rice – the so-called „Birijan“ and try homemade cakes.
Household of Sokolj Daci, Gornji Bukelj
Village of Gornji Bukelj is situated at the foot of the mountain Hajla, unspoiled mountain massif of special natural values and beauty. Tucked among the conifers, besides Bukeljska river, the village with a few remaining households who live there throughout the year has been recognized for its hospitality and tradition. So is the household of Sokolj Daci, who like to talk about tradition of the area of Rožaje, customs and culture that pervade lives of all the village inhabitants. This place is rich in blueberries, raspberries, mushrooms and mountain tea and do not miss to try homemade specialties such as kačamak, flia, cicvara and many others.
Eco katun Hajla, Emina Kurpejovid, Grope Hajla, tel: 069 759 316
On the slopes of Hajla, Eco katun Hajla, managed by the Kurpejovid family is situated on the slopes of this mountain. Family resides here from the first of May until the end of October and five siblings easily do the tasks on the farm and take care of the animals. When it comes to domestic dairy products, they offer everything and housewife Emina is particularly proud of the cheese for which she received awards for quality in several municipalities in Montenegro. Tired tourists and hikers can enjoy homemade blueberry, raspberry, blackberry and currant juices, and for those who decide to spend the night at the foot of Hajla, there are double and triple huts covered with straw.
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Mountain Lodge Grope, Ferzije Feka Kurtagid, Grope Hajla, tel: 069 904 030
Mountain Lodge Grope was opened 2008 and is located at the foot of the mountain Hajla. The Lodge has two off-road vehicles, 10 sets of climbing equipment, eight bicycles so that members of the club can make your visit to the mountain range of the northeast of Montenegro unforgettable. In order to make each day of your vacation interesting, they regularly organize workshops in the field of mountaineering and mountain climbing, evenings of traditional cuisine, tools and crafts, as well as art colonies – watercolor techniques, and when it comes to food, you can try specialties such as pies, stew from Hajla and Hajsagna (lasagna from Hajla).
Mountain Lodge Jelenčica, Osman Kurpejovid, selo Bandžov, tel: 067 332 090
Mountain Lodge Jelenčica can be found in the village of Bandžov, at 10 kilometers from the entrance to Rožaje and three kilometers from the foot of the mountain Hajla. Lodge is conveniently located, not far from Hajla and spring of Ibar river and hikers from the mountain lodge often organize hiking tours and trips. Accommodation capacities comprise 25 beds and you can try dishes from national cuisine. In front of mountain lodge, there is space for camping, so the tents can be set up, and drinking fountain with pure mountain water can be found nearby.
Restaurant Dermando, Nokid Ahmet, selo Bandžov, tel: 067 913 1112
In the village of Bandžov, at 1500 meters above sea level, there is cultural center Dermando – ethno restaurant, in which interior motifs of different cultures are interwoven. The warm atmosphere and hospitaliity can be felt at the very doorstep of the restaurant, attracting both locals and guests from other cities. Fireplace, which occupies central part of the restaurant creates the feeling of home atmosphere, with a restaurant terrace overlooking the endless waves of coniferous forest. Hosts of
133 this cultural center offer dishes from the national cuisine. The accommodation capacities offer two facilities from which you can see dense conifer forest.
NOTE! Given that many partners are farmers and herders who spend their time working outside and in the mountains, in order to provide you with the highest quality of services and products, please pay attention and do not forget to be promptly announced.
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Hiking trail
ABOUT GUIDE
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This guide is designed for users of hiking trails covered with “ViP Dinarica” project through Montenegro and it is intended for all hikers, sportsmen and nature lovers who would like to experience mountains Sinjajevina, Bjelasica, Komovi, Visitor and Prokletije. It is difficult and almost impossible to describe everything you can see, experience and enjoy along the trail. Therefore, this guide intends to direct users to explore, enjoy, discover, do sports or recreation on beautiful mountain massifs of northern and eastern part of Montenegrin connection with Kosovo.
The aim of this guide is to provide basic information about the trails, give short advice and rules of conduct in the mountain – nature, what to visit, see, reach and experience unique mountain horizons, lakes known as “mountain eyes”, rich flora and fauna of three National Parks, cultural – historical attractions, life in summer pastures (katuns).
Dear users, the mountain loves, honors and respects healthy, humble and courageous, it is partner and friend to all who respect and not disobey its whims, so keep advice and recommendations given in this guide important and useful in order to stay safe on the trails. Take the guide with you, note the word or capture photo of what has impressed you, climb peaks, verify your stay on the attraction, mountain lodge, or shelter-katun by a stamp and all that you consider necessary in order to have lasting memory of your stay on the mountains of Montenegro.
Descriptions of hiking tours are summarized in stages (days), illustrated by topographic maps, trail profiles, photos, useful information, GPS coordinates of important points, accommodation along the trails, agrotourism, transport links, hosts (mountain clubs) for easier selection according to your wishes and opportunities.
We recommend you to use only regulated – marked trails with using a professional guide, guide from Mountaineering Association of Montenegro or host on the trail during summer months due to your complete safety. Winter markings are not set on the trails. Always keep in mind: USE TRAILS AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Maps in the guide are enough for using and orientation.
Good luck and enjoy!
*ViP Dinarica project is commonly implemented by NGO Centre for sustainable tourism initiatives (CSTI) and Mountaineering Association of Montenegro (PSCG) from Podgorica on Montenegrin side and Community Development Fund CDF and Orienteering Club “Prishtina” from Priština, on Kosovo side.
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TO REMIND YOU!
For your safety and comfort, we remind you when hiking on mountain trails:
Always carefully plan your stay in nature to your possibilities.
Never go alone, always in organized group!
Provide adequate clothing and footwear, means for orientation (map-guide, compass or GPS), protection from the weather, flashlight, water and food reserves, first aid, signaling whistle regardless of whether you go on one-day or multi-day tour with or without professional guide.
Use trails at your own responsibility and risk!
Gather all necessary information for your safe hiking on local weather conditions and specific risks on the selected trail.
Assess your possibilities - fitness, so choose the trail of proper difficulty.
Prepare equipment, clothing and shoes according to trail demands
Before you go, always check the current – local weather forecast and whether you have prepared adequate equipment (for your camera, walking sticks...)
Do not forget protective clothing for rain and cold, profection from UVR, hiking book and personal documents.
Start your hiking early in the morning, with planned time for rest, sightseeing and safe arrival to the aim and/or return during daylight.
Adjust your walking speed to the group (average 2,5-3,0 km per hour), take frequent breaks and follow the guide’s instructions.
Alway keep with yourself water reserves, avoid drinking water from unregulated springs.
Do not single out from the group on your own, but follow marked trails and guides!
Use official maps and tracks, updated guidebooks for selected trail.
Always bring mobile phone, backup phone batteries, flashlights and GPS.
If your are in any doubt, go back, especially in complex weather conditions to the nearest shelter with consultations with the guide, never arbitrarily.
Do not leave trash in nature – leave the resting place as you found it and use of open fire should be minimal.
Do not disturb wildlife, save and protect flora (photograph it).
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In the case of accident, give first aid within your possibilities and capabilities. (contact 122 and 112) and follow the guidelines which will be given to you.
ITINERARY 1
Katun Zaboj (1502) resting place - Zabojsko lake (1486) – Planinica (1670) – Škalje (1750) -*drinking fountain Škalje (1608) – saddle Suvi Pedarac (1847) – puddle Potpedarac (1730) – Ognjenovo polje (1700) – Pribranci (1760) – katun Okrugljak (1710) (church Ružica 1721)
Start: Zabojsko lake
Finish: katun Okrugljak
Total length: 12,5 kilometers (+8,7 access to trail)
Highest point: 1847 masl
Lowest point: 1486 masl
Necessary time: 6:00 h (+3:30h)
Difficulty: demanding
Markings: summer standard of PSCG, signposts on grassy surfaces
UTM waypoints:
34T 4764773 369547, katun Zaboj
34T 4763519 367371, holiday home katun Zaboj
34T 4764773 369547, Zabojsko lake
34T 4759057 366719, puddle Potpedarac
34T 4758702 370745, church Ružica
34T 4868106 372315, katun Okrugljak
In order to start first route, turn in Gornja Dobrilovina by gravel-forest road which separates from main road Mojkovac – Đurđevida Tara in the direction of West. Ascending several sharp road serpentines which provide fantastic view towards village Gornja Dobrilovana i Tarska greda (beginning of river Tara canyon) through mixed forest, we come to the rocky edge of the canyon. From third curve to the south, waterfall of flow of Zabojsko lake and forest area of black pine, spruce and fir can be seen. We can take a short break at first crossroad of forest roads after leaving the canyon. We continue moving by the left road in direction of southwest through thick conifer forest to the crossroad at which we will turn left in the direction of south towards katun. At about 500 meters from the crossroad, we will find arranged hut – resting place in Zaboj katun N= 43° 00´ 46˝ E= 19° 22´ 21˝.
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katun Zaboj from the road towards lake resting place Zaboj
From the resting place Zaboj, we follow the trail southeast for 200 meters and we will see CT – 1 signalization set on the expansion on the road for turning towards Zabojsko lake. Follow small path to the left, then through conifer forest to the lake shore. The lake can be visited (recommendation) by circular trail with photo safari, enjoying this magical lake and untouched nature. From the road which goes straight, the lake is „hidden“ from the view, but even from this road, after 250m you can reach southwest shore of the lake. There is a small plateau on southwest shore of the lake – which represents perfect resting place and here you can find info board and a bench. Near KT, there is spring (last spring – please refill your reserves) at about 30 meters on the north. Camping on the lake is not allowed, only in katun. National Park „Durmitor“ charge tickets and stay in the zone of the lake through ranger service.
Zabojsko lake N= 43° 01´ 28˝ E= 19° 23´ 56˝ 1486 m.a.s.l
Zabojsko lake is the most famous and most beautiful “mountain eye” on Sinjajevina mountain. This is typical mountain lake of glacial origin. It is located at altitude of 1477 meters above sea level and it is surrounded by thick coniferous forest. Length of the lake is 256 meters, it is 105 meters wide and length of the coastline is 650 meters. Maximum depth of the lake is 15 meters, with the average of 6 meters. There is no surface flow, so it is “fed” with water from several small, permanent or seasonal springs, which can be found in its coastal zone. Significant water amounts are received through precipitation, while discharge is preformed seasonally through flow, submergence and evaporation. During the winter, surface of the lake is covered with ice and snow. The water is emerald green, very airy and clean, so during the summer months it is suitable for swimming. Lake is located in the protected zone of National Park “Durmitor” as strict reserve together with Crna Poda and river Tara canyon with rich flora and fauna. It represents habitat for rare bird species (big grouse), chamois and deer.
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Zabojsko lake from southwest Zabojsko lake from southeast
After visiting the lake and short break on the shore, you should control and adjust your equipment because hiking is about to start – reaching the forest road, we follow the path left to the south. You should avoid shortcuts that are not marked through thick conifer forest to a clearing and crossroad southwest from Javorje peak, at which you should turn right in direction of southwest and after 1,2 km you will reach saddle Planinica (1720), from which you can see peak Pedarac and eastern plateau of Sinjajevina mountain. At southeast you can see massif of Bjelasica and Komovi. Continue by light descent for about 50 meters by markied trail, keeping the southwest direction under rocky slope towards katun Planinica, from where you can see Prošdenske mountains towards Bistrica, and then by marked trail towards Škalja. (Shortcut towards Škalja drinking fountain (k.1608) should be used only with the guide!). At the crossroad, continue straight to the south in the direction of katun Planinica, towards saddle between V. Pedarac (2042) and Suvi Pedarac (1846). At this part, trail is less grassy, gently wavy with the pines along the trail, therefore you should follow markings (on rocks or signposts) by cattle trail. From the saddle, you will see Jablanov peak on south and southwest (2203), Torna (Bablji zub 2277) and V. Starac (2022). From here to the east, peak Kabo (1822) is visible, near katun Okrugljak (Ružica) and Borova glava. Farther, trail is marked along the cattle trail in the direction of southwest and we reach bigger puddle Potpedarac after 1,5 kilometer. N= 42° 58´ 21˝ E= 19° 21´ 56˝
Kabo peak (1822) as orienteering point Veliki Pedarac (2042) from the trail towards Pribranci
Signalization exists near puddle. You must check marking and turn left to the southeast across Ognjenovo polje for three kilometers by following marking and avoid many sinkholes. We come to the crossroad 600 meters south from katun Provalija (small puddle), from were we continue by wavy hiking
140 marked trail (signposts) to saddle Pribranci (1760) with panoramic view towards katun Okrugljak, church Ružica and Borova glava (1854) which dominates on the eastern side. After 500 m we come to the crossroad with vehicular road northeast from Debela glava (1812) and mountain bike trail, then along couple of huts from both sides and we come to the katun Okrugljak center (1710) (KT) N= 42° 57´ 18˝ E= 19° 24´ 31˝ . After 1.3 km in the direction of southeast, we come to the church Ružica (1721) N= 42° 58´ 12˝ E= 19° 24´ 54˝ which is beautiful viewpoint as well. Near the church, at the beginning of Martinidki katun, there is convenient place for camping, besides spring Ponori (drinking fountains), while accommodation can be found in both katuns in the period from June till the end of October. Daily route ends here. Snow often remains in sinkholes along the road, which creates more puddles which mostly dry up due to karst terrain. Grassy terrains are excellent pastures and are often used for preparation of hay for livestock. Whole area of Sinjajevina is rich in medicinal herbs and endemic plant species.
Katun Okrugljak scenery
Katun Okrugljak is the largest katun in Montenegro which is settled with herdsmen from month of June until the first snow. The katun is rich in springs which are formed as troughs.
Church Ružica was built in 1894 by Bjelopavlidi tribe and dedicated to its patron St. Vasilije Ostroški by which they thanked Prince Nikola I Petrovid who gave them this part of the mountain for cattle breeding.
The church is the center of summer gatherings of all who reside on Sinjajevina, especially on 2nd August - St. Ilias Day, when celebration is organized with competition in folk shepherd’s sports games.
Church Ružica on the top of the hill Horses from katun Okrugljak
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ITINERARY 2 katun Okrugljak (1705) – Martinidki katun (1700) – (*katun Borova glava drinking fountain (1616) – Čelišta (1720)* – Borova glava (1854) – Čelišta – Rabrenov do (1682) – Bregovi (1731) – Ckara m.lodge ( 1552) – Katuničko brdo (1311) – k.1270 –Topovi - Paljokina kosa (913) –Mojkovac, river Tara bridges (805)> or alternative (231A **): k.1270 -Večerinovac (Rakočevid estate) – Mali Preporan – Podbišde (partisan cemetery) – river Tara bridges* –(310): town center – Suvovrh 1162 – Bojna njiva monument (1120) - Razvršje (1232) – Medeno guvno (1125) – Dekovac ( 1312)- m.lodge „Džambas“, katun Kutijevac (1436)
Start: katun Okrugljak
Finish: mountain lodge Džambas
Total length: 33 kilometers
Highest point: 1854 masl
Lowest point: 805 masl
Necessary time: 10:30h
Difficulty: demanding
Markings: summer standard of PSCG, signposts on grassy surfaces
UTM waypoints:
34T 4756104 377837, mountain lodge Ckara
34T 4755293 389180, Mučnica
Start of second route is near spring Ponori, where you should refill your water reserves. Due to the length of the trail, hiking should start early in the morning. Continue walking by vehicular gravel road through Martinidki katun by shortcut to the saddle from which you can see huts of Knez Do katun, while on southeastern side you can see Borova glava katun. Here, hiking trails separates from the road and you go 800 meters along the ridge to the east, by grassy road towards Borova glava peak, and at the very peak through sparse pine forest. Borova glava represents fantastic viewpoint. Descent from the top goes in the direction of northeast 300 meters to the plateau Čelišta (Djevojački grob). If you do not want to climb Borova glava peak, just continue by the path, which is mtb path as well, to the drinking fountain on the path in Borova glava katun. Here, hiking trail is marked in the direction of east, across the plain Čelišta, and then along the ridge and grassy waves northeast over Petrova kosa (1790), by southern slopes of Goveđa glava (1845) before reaching gravel road (mtb) at 1801. Marking still leads along the gravel road through Rabrenov do, along the puddle (1682) in the direction of east to the big puddle and crossroad (1645), then by the north side of Bregovi (1731) and viewpoint in Ckara katun.
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Mountain lodge Ckara Viewpoint Obješenica
After 12 kilometers of hiking, take a break beside drinking fountain and spring Zaboj and arrive at mountain lodge „Ckara“ N= 42° 56´ 52˝ E= 19°30´ 09˝ 1625 m.a.s.l. hosted by Mountaineering Club „Sinjajevina“ where you should take a rest. Near the lodge, you can find KT CT-1. Also, 450 meters northeast from the lodge, there is viewpoint Obješenica from which you can see river Tara valley, Mojkovac, Bjelasica and Prošdenske mountains. We leave the meadows and pastures, enter deciduous forest and we exit Sinjajevina massif by a cove between Ckara and Orlja through Ckara katun and descend towards Mojkovac can start. By gravel road through Katuničko hill (1311), we arrive at a crossroad where trail (231) further leads right in the direction of southeast to the next crossroad, then straight, continuing along Topovi (1208) (repeator) through forest towards Paljokina kosa (1010) and tt.903 and goes down to Tara bridges (805) and Mojkovac battle monument.
**From the crossroad Večerinovac –Topovi, there is alternate route 231A which leads along the motel „Rakočevid estate“ by northern slope Mali Prepran (1050) through Feratovo and G.Polje (Podbišde) near partisan cemetery and exits to the bridges. This version is longer and suitable for hikers pedestrians who have more time available for longer stay on ViP Dinarica“.
Monument of Mojkovac battle and Medeno guvno
Near the bridges, you can see Mojkovac battle monument, and hotel Mojkovac is 100 meters away, situated on the road towards Žabljak on the left bank of Tara river. Trail continues by sidewalk along to the church where you turn right by the street that leads us to the crossroad where we turn left towards town center. From the crossroad, 1,2 kilometers straight leads to the railway station Mojkovac. Bus station can be found on the main road, 200 meters from the center in the direction of northwest. Here you can get information and provide basic necessities. From the square (monument to Serdar Janko Vukotid), by the street northwest towards Juškovida potok settlement, after 1,2 kilometers turn towards Bojna njiva by the trail from Ravni towards Suvovrh (1162) where you can see viewpoint. From Suvovrh, turn over to the east and you will arrive at Bojna njiva, near the monument where KT CT-1 can be found.
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** You can come from Mojkovac to Bojna njiva by gravel road as well
Continue by vehicular road in the direction of east through Razvršje (1232) along the ridge to the south and after four kilometers you will get to the saddle Medeno guvno (memorial cemetary) and then turn left (east) by shorter road serpentines along Dekovac (1312). From Dekovac, by vehicular road and through the woods of oak, beech and birch trees, you will come to the glade and katun Kutijevac N= 42° 56´ 32˝ E= 19° 38´ 30˝ 1436 at the foot of Mučnica. Here, at Mountain Lodge „DB Džambas“, whose host is Mountaineerin Club Džambas from Mojkovac, the second day of hiking will finish. Lodge provides food and accommodation services as well as camping space and guide services in Bjelasica mountain. This mountain lodge represents viewpoint towards Mojkovac and Sinjajevina as well. The lodge is arranged for accommodation of larger groups of hikers.
Mountain lodge Dzambas in katun Kutijevac
ITINERARY 3
M. lodge Džambas (1436) – Vrioca spring – katun Marinkovac (1704) – peak Bjelogrivac (1959) KT – Mokro polje – spring in katun Čadorišta (1850) – katun Kojanovac – saddle Žuber (1705) – Šiško lake (1660) staza 301 – saddle Svatovsko groblje (1878) trail 312 – crossroad Jusin brijeg (1905) – tt.2079 trail 302 – peak Crna glava (2139) KT trail 301 – saddle above Pešida lake (1970) – Savine bare, spring (1845) – spring Jaževi (1800) –Jagančarske rupe – V.Čkala (1923) – saddle Jagančar (1845) – katun Vranjak – m. lodge „Bjelasica“ (1772) trail 301
Start: mountain lodge Džambas
Finish: mountain lodge Bjelasica
Total length: 31 kilometer
Highest point: 2139 masl
Lowest point: 1436 masl
Necessary time: 10:00 h
Difficulty: medium
Markings: summer standards of PSCG and signposts on grassy surfaces
UTM waypoints:
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34T 4752982 390957, peak Bjelogrivac
34T 4750319 391572, Šiško lake
34T 4750192 389824, Svatovsko groblje
34T 4746800 393651, peak Crna Glava
34T 4744477 388324, mountain lodge Bjelasica
Staying in mountain lodge should be planned according to the available time, possibilities and weather conditions. Hiking should be started early in the morning by leaving mountain lodge and katun Kutijevac by vehicular road for one kilometer to the crossroad where hiking trail 310 joins with hiking trail 301 near spring Vrioci. The route further leads by vehicular road along temporary stream Prodana and huts of the katun in the direction of northeast and after 1,2 km turn in the direction of south by a path through beech forest and meadows to katun Marinkovac (k.1704). On the plateau near katun you should turn into the cove through which you will see cattle path between Mladina and Bjelogrivac to the saddle north from the western peak Bjelogrivac. Follow marking and turn towards western peak Bjelogrivac (1959) which is natural viewpoint towards Mojkovac and Sinjajevina. N=42° 55´ 18˝ E= 19° 39´ 50˝ 1959
You can find KT-07 CT-1 at the peak with the stamp and a register.
Hiking through Bjelasica
After a short break, continue by grassy ridge towards eastern peak of Bjelograivac (1970) and go down to the saddle between Bjelogrivac and Ogorelica (1986) where it connects from the direction of northwest with the trail No. 309 in Mokro polje where it goes along puddles to katun Gudžaljine (Turjak). On the northern slopes of Ogorelica, you can see snow with remains until late summer and which can be used as water for livestock. From this crossroad, you follow cattle path by western slopes of Ogorelica in the direction of south and you will come to drinking fountain and trough in katun Čadorište. Trail from katun Marinkovac to katun Čadorište is grassy and marked by additional markings – signposts. You can find accommodation in the katun and a shelter in the case of bad weather. Further, we go in the direction of south by the edge of the forests where vehicular road goes along Lumer which is marked trail. On the plateau which is located east from Lumer is exit to forest path which goes from katun Kojanovac to Čadorište (1902) where trail 308 joins. After road serpentines, path towards katun Kujanovac separates at the turning and goes through the forest and we come to the saddle Žuber (1612) above Šiško lake. From this saddle, you can see lake and katun Šiška where protected area of National Park Biogradska gora starts. You can take a short break near the lake. Trail 301 goes further towards katun Šiška.
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Šiško lake N=42° 53´ 52˝ E= 19° 40 ´ 19˝ 1660
View towards Šiško lake from the saddle Žuber
We continue by western shore of the lake (by the slopes of Žuber) by marked cattle trail (312) and by waves of Tutida katun and gentle climb when we come to the saddle and crossroad Svatovsko groblje N=42° 53´ 47˝ E= 19° 39´ 02˝ 1878. Here we connect to the trail 302 which goes from Biogradsko lake, towards viewpoint Bendovac and katun Dolovi towards Crna glava. This saddle is also a viewpoint towards Biogradska gora (Jelenak). Trail 302 is integral part of ViP Dinarica. From Svatovsko groblje, we follow vehicular road which goes to saddle Jusin brijeg and farther by the ridge of Biogradska gora to saddle Jagančar and katun Vranjak. From Krivi smet, the trails is marked along the ringe to the viewpoint k 1984 over k. 1965 at the saddle (1905) east of Jusin brijeg. At this part, pay additional attention while moving along the ringe (rocks on the north side). In the case of fog, just follow the path. From the saddle, you can go back to Šiško lake by shorter path and trail 301 (see the map).
From the saddle, trail 302 goes across k. 2079 onto a plateau of nameless peak 2095 (follow signposts). From here, the trail goes into the cove through which it goes by southern slope of Galica and by the edge of pine forest out to the bandage which has rocky echo from the south side. Follow the trail to the upper part of Crna glava (2139) N=42° 51´ 59˝ E= 19° 41´ 53 ˝. Crna glava is the highest peak of Bjelasica at which you will find KT-06 CT-1 with a register and a stamp at the top. From the top you will see Prokletije and Komovi, Pešida and Ursulovačko lake. Back to the nameless peak is in oposite direction (301) for 1,2 km. The trail is marked with additional markings on a grassy ridge, and it descends in the direction of south to the saddle (1965) which is northwest from Pešida lake, where several trails branch off: trail 302 towards Pešida lake, 301A towards Zekova glava and 301. From the crossroad, we go towards Savine bare by forest path for about one kilometer until we get to the road for Jusin brijeg – saddle Jagančar – Katun Vranjak.
Trail futher leads by the foot of Zekova glava (2117) and Troglava (2072) from katun Savina bara near spring of Biogradska river (spring Jaževi) through blackberry fields and Jagančarska rupa (1853) and V.Čkale (1923) where you will see natural viewpoint towards Biogradska gora reserve and northern cliffs and sandbanks of Troglava and Zekova glava. By following northwest along the slopes of Troglava, we come to the crossroad with gravel road towards Zekova glava. You will find signposts at the crossroad. The trail descends with gentle road serpentines at saddle Jagančar (1846) through which hiking trail from Kolašin goes towards Kordelj. Here is the official point of entrance in the National Park. We continue by gravel road from the saddle to the south and after 1,7 km we come to the mountain lodge „Bjelasica“ N= 42°50´ 41˝ E= 19° 38´ 00˝ 1772 and the host is Mountain Club Bjelasica from Kolašin. At katun Vranjak you can find eco katun as well with special offer of accommodation of tourists and hikers on Bjelasica.
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View from Crna Glava peak
** Trail 301A is marked shortcut for hiking by the ridge of Zekova glava and it is more demanding. From the crossroad above Pešida lake, you go by narrow ridge towards telecommunication junction (2117) next to the fense and come to the plateau south from the facility and the antenna system. This area is suitable for resting and as a viewpoint. This part is demanding for average hikers due to rorcky and narrow ridge especially in bad weather conditions and due to slippery grassy parts towards Pešida lake where sometimes you can see snow. Further, we go towards saddle between Zekova glava and Troglava by south slopes and ridge, walking across three peaks until we reach western peak (2072). Due to slippery grass and frequent winds (especially fog), you should avoid movement by the ridge with snowdrifts that stay long on the north slopes. From the peak, you should follow auxiliary markings and go by western side to the saddle Jagačar and futher to the mountain lodge (Eco katun).
Mountain lodge Bjelasica in katun Vranjak
Bjelasica mountain is extremely rich in pastures, flora and fauna as well as endemic, medicinal and spice plants/herbs, fruits of nature (blueberries, wild strawberries, mushrooms) and protected fauna in the National Park reserves.
The special values are mountain lakes and puddles as well as katun architecture (huts, milk huts, troughs with springs, pens etc.).
ViP Dinarica trails allows to see many lakes and puddles besides Šiško lake. Visiting lakes is especially planned by multi-day tour. From the trail, you can see following lakes: M.Šiško from the viewpoint k.1984, Ursulovačko lake from Crna glava peak, Pešida jezero from several positions of Crna glava, Zekova glava and puddle in katun Rupe Ravanjske from the saddle Jagančar.
ITINERARY 4
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Vranjak, m.lodge „Bjelasica“ (1772) – crossroad (1732) – Klisura – Čkala – Stankov krš – puddle (1765) – Krivi do (1685) – Štirno brdo – katun Bačko brdo (1648) – Zanoga – peak Lisa KT (1878) – resting place Jovanov grob (1754) - katun Prisojački – Metalica – saddle Trešnjevik (1568) – Preslo – Razvrše (1784) – katun Božidki – Šančevi KT (1828) – Štavna (1764) – eco katun „Štavna“ (1702)
Start: mountain lodge Bjelasica
Finish: eco katun Štavna
Total length: 22.5 kilometers
Highest point: 1878 masl
Lowest point: 1567 masl
Necessary time: 8:30 h
Difficulty: demanding
Markings: summer standard of PSCG and signposts on grassy surfaces
UTM waypoints:
34T 4732289 392334, saddle Trešnjevik
34T 4729699 392135, eko katun Štavna
After a break in mountain lodge Bjelasica in katun Vranjak and refilling water reserves, we continue our hiking by gravel road to the saddle Raskrsnica (1736) in the direction of south (straight) from the crossroad on local road Kolašin – Berane. Pay attention not to start moving by abandoned forest path. The path leads along the ridge through a mixed forest of beech and spruce to Klisura (1827) and through Čkala (1804) and katun with big blackberry field after which we come to the saddle with a puddle, then on the crossroad near Stekov krš. From the crossroad, take better path straight to the south. Forest road from the crossroad on the west leads to the ski lift Dupovi of SKI center „Jezerine“, on what you need to pay attention. The trail further leads with one road serpentine by eastern slopes of Stekov krš and Goveđa glava towards Krivi do. Shortcut leads to the mountain lodge in Krivi do where you can take a short break or find a shelter in the case of bad weather.
On the road towards Komovi
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We go further by forest path and through katun towards the saddle; the trail is marked and goes through mixed beech and spruce forest by western slope of Lumer (1863) on Štirno brdo. At the crossroad, you should turn left (east) and then straight towards Bačko hill, katun and saddle. Do not turn right down the ridge, that is the road towards Kraljske Bare. From the saddle Bačko hill, forest road branches to the left towards Asanovidi katun and further in forest Dragišnica. Continue from the saddle straight to the south by northern slope across Šemin javor to Zanoga through mixed forest to the crossroad of paths which separate on the east and west side, the left one is for Rudo brdo and the right one is for Trešnjevik. Thetrail is marked along the ridge to the top of mountain Lisa N= 42° 44´ 08˝ E= 19° 41´ 05˝ 1878 which represents natural viewpoint and KT CT1. From the top, the trail leads among few conifer trees through blackberry field by southern grassy ridge towards saddle Jovanov grob and towards Trešnjevik. At the beginning of the slope, there is a resting place and viewpoint in blackberry field from which you can see all the details from the north side of Komovi and forests of eastern and western sides of saddle Trešnjevik.
The trail further leads by new vehicular road which descends through katun Prisojački by southern slope of Stražarica (1841), via Metalica and Trešnjevik (1686) at the saddle Trešnjevik N= 42° 44´ 08˝ E= 19° 41´ 05˝ 1572. You come to the asphalt road and saddle Trešnjevik where signposts are placed. At the saddle near restaurant – caffe, right asphalt road leads to eko katun Štavna. Regional road Mateševo – Andrijevica leads over the saddle, once the only link of Podgorica and Andrijevica and further towards Kosovo. There is a restaurant on the saddle – a former mountain lodge, info point and mountain eco home.
Eko katun Štavna
From the restaurant, trail 301 CT 1 is marked and goes near holiday homes by asphalt road to Preslo. On the plateau, saddle on the right is forest path for forests Turirog. The path branches from the asphalt road and further goes by marked ridge, near transmission line and forest path leads to Razvrše (1784), to the crossroad near katun Božidki and then further by eastern ridge towards Šančevi peak (1828) where KT 04 CT1 takes place. This peak is also Štavna viewpoint. From the peak Šančevi, you descend by southern ridge through flattened juniper and blackberry field to the crossroad for katun Kobil do. You continue further by vehicular road by the ridge of Štavna to k. 1784 (disorganized tented camp) on the plains above Vulida katun. Unmarked shortcut from the crossroad to Kobil do leads northeast for 400 meters to eco katun Štavna N= 42° 42´ 44˝ E= 19° 40´ 58˝ 1702, which is the goal of the fourth stage – day. Besides katun Štavna, accommodation is also provided in katuns Kobil do and Vulida katun, where two mountain huts are opened.
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Lisa and Štavna are rich in berries (blueberries, wild strawberries and mushrooms, medicinal and aromatic herbs that can be found along the trail). Štavna with Komovi was declared a Regional Nature Park which is in the formation process and covers the territory of the municipalities of Andrijevica, Kolašin and Podgorica. Collecting berries as well as production of eco food on katuns is very popular nowadays.
Particulary interesting is the architecture on katuns is has specific structure in this part of ViP Dinarica. There is electricity on Štavna and there is a good acces from Trešnjevik, therefore people often build modern holiday homes.
Hikers and other users who have enough time and possibility to spend couple of days on ViP Dinarica, we recommend to climb on Kom Vasojevidki (2461) and / or a circular tour around Komovi. Komovi should be visited especially in August and September.
CIRCULAR TOUR AROUND KOMOVI
ITINERARY: Štavna (1784) - Konjic (1812) – Sipar – Međukomlje (crossroad 1790) – Ljuban (1814) – Rogam (2015) – saddle 2140 (Rogamski peak - Suvovrh) – katun Carine (shelter 1830) – viewpoint under Bavan – Lakina kosa – k.1776 – Varda (1782) –k. 1737 (crossroad) – Mačak (spring Mijajlovica – katun Vulida (1740) (Štavna)
Start: Štavna
Finish: Štavna
Total length: 21,8 km
Highest point: 2160 masl
Lowest point: 1690 masl
Necessary time: 9:30 h
Difficulty: demanding
Markings: summer standard of PSCG
UTM waypoints:
34T 4728290 391499, trail branching
34T 4727140 390070, rocks near pine trees
34T 4728383 389520, Ljuban
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34T 4724945 388463, trail CT 1
Come to Štavna and not climb to Komovi which is also known as “King mountain”, no mountaineer would not miss that opportunity. Many experienced hikers and climbers spend several days in order to try out their skills and enjoy the ambience of Komovi. Some of them called this tour “Three peaks in a day”. Komovi provide place for those who want to spend their time in nature and meet their needs, from beginners to top climbers. For hikers with average fitness with complete equipment, we recommend to climb on Kom Vasojevidki (2461) and circular tour around Komovi in three variants. Mountain transversal “Through mountains of Montenegro” CT 1 (hiking trail 301) goes through Komovi. Štavna is one of the most attractive viewpoints and represents watershed between the basins of rivers Tara and Lim.
Regardless of there the base camp is, start is from čelo Koma from the branching of trails (signpost) N= 42° 41´20˝ E= 19° 39´ 29˝ 1790. Refill your water reserves from spring Jankova voda. When you come to the signpost (Konjic), turn by narrow path through blueberry field and flattened juniper in the direction of southwest, carefully across active rock creeps. Follow the markings and carefully descend through a sparse black pine forest. Below the rocks of Vasojevidki Kom, you will come to the biggest creep on Komovi. Carefully follow the trail across gravelled area (350m) and you will come to grassy area to large rocks near few pines N= 42° 41´20˝ E= 19° 39´ 29˝ 1790. Here is a crossroad of trails CT 1 which continues by Međukomlje in the direction of south and trail to Ljuban. From the crossroad, you turn in the direction of northwest above the forest by rocky areas by hiking trail 306 b. From this trail you will see the valley of Drndarska river which is rich in mixed forests and western slope of Vasojevidki Kom. After 1,5 km the trail leads to Ljuban N= 42° 42´ 00˝ E= 19°39´ 04˝ 1812, grassy northern slope of Kučki Kom near few mountain huts towards two springs on the saddle which are suitable for a short break above which you can se cliffs of Ljevoriječki Kom (2469).
Circular tour around Komovi
Katuns Martinovidi, Novovidi and Labovidi can be found on eastern slopes of Ljuban, which are active and which can be reached through forest path from Han Drndarski, and on the west side Valjevski laz katun can be found. From saddle, the trail is marked by 1,2 km in the direction of west towards sharp ridge from which you will be able to see river Crnja and forest of the same name, while on the west you can see bare hills of Strmenica (1959) and Kukoraj hill (1965). Here, the trails turns in the direction of south by cattle path, maintaining a height below the cliffs and rock creeps above the forest in a gentle curve by spacious cove to the spring in the direction of west to the spring. You will come to Rogam by marked trail- shortcut near the forest, then by grassy ridge in the direction of southeast by following cattle path, then by western slope under Rogamski peak (2303) while maintaining the achieved height then come
151 out to the saddle between Suvovrh (2211) and Rogamski peak. Follow markings in the direction of the east and descend to CT – 1 trail (signpost) ) N= 42° 40´ 08˝ E= 19° 38´ 20˝ k. 1852. Mountain hut – shelter called Carine can be found here, to which vehicular road is constructed from the saddle Carine (trail CT 1).
From this crossroad (from the shelter), 316A is marked. Withous losing height, you must cross over several ravines on the plateau under south rock of Vasojevidki Kom to the smaller plateau, between rare pines, where you can find natural viewpoint towards Planinica, Mojan and saddle Carine. From this place, marked forest path goes through pine forest in the direction of east with slight ascent to Lakima Kosa (2,5 km) where you change direction towards northeast through mixed forest and go to the section with individual trees and young forest by maintaining the height to sharp ridge of Varda (1782). From Varda you can see Mojanska and Bistrica rivers (Konjuhe) and in the direction of southeast Paunova (2163), Ilina glava (2165). On the east you will see mountains Zeletin and Balj. After 500 meters there is a crossroad (signpost) from which you should go straight. Right path leads to katun Vara and towards Jastrebid hill you will descend to Jošanica (Japan). From the crossroad, the trail leads through beech forest Mačak, first downhill and then smaller climb towards katun Vulida from where you continue by the trail to eco katun. In katun Vulida you will find mountain hut, and western on the ridge near holiday home - the place for tents as well. Circular tour around Komovi ends in katun Vulida.
ITINERARY 5
Štavna, eko katun (1702) - crossroad – Dubačke glave – Milanovec – Stražnica (1441) – Peovi monument (1302) – Tovarnica – Mali krš – Zulevo brdo (1088) – Gloštice – Andrijevica town center (782) – turnoff for hospital – bridge across the river Zlorečica – turnoff for Bojovidi village – village Bojovidi (Begar) – k.1077 – katun Previja (saddle Previja)
Start: Štavna
Finish katun Previja
Length 21 kilometer
Highest point: 1702 masl
Lowest point: 758 masl
Necessary time: 9:00 h
Difficulty: demanding
Markings: summer standard of PSCG and signposts on grassy surfaces
UTM waypoints:
34T 4729699 392135, katun Štavna
34T 4728744 402428, katun Previja
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Trail 306 is the part of fifth route of ViP Dinarica from Štavna (north entrance to eco katun „Štavna“), which is marked by the road towards saddle Trešnjevik (asphalt road) through beech forest and after 1,8 kilometer we arrive to the crossroad (1675) and turn by forest path right (in the direction of east) by the ridge towards katun Milanovec, walking by the north side of Dubačka glava (1651) and you come to the meadown on the southern slopes of Milanovec. Here you will find natural viewpoint towards Konjuhe, Asanac and Vasojevidki Kom. After katun, we turn by the forest path in the direction of southeast along the forest and pastures to the crossroad on southern slope of Stražnica (1441) where you need to turn left (northeast) by southern slopes of Peovi, across the peak of Đevojčina Bukva from which you descend towards saddle (1302) west from V. Krš (1449) – here you will see repeater. Here you will see crossroad near the monument. We continue by turning to better road on the north, then by western slopes and meadows of Tovarnica. You can take a short break near the monument. From Tovarnica, you go by new forest path and exit the forest under the rocks of Mali Krš, then in the direction of northeast you descend to Zulevo brdo (1088), then again through the forest above the village of Gloštica towards k.1000. Further, the road is better quality and you descend by eastern serpentines in Andrijevica town center where you can find hotel Komovi, post office, bank and Municipality offices.
According to the available time, you can visit cultural and historical monuments from I and II World War in park Knjaževac, collect information in LTO and buy all necessary things for the next route. From Andrijevica, continue by asphalt road along the hospital, across the bridge over river Zlorečica and turn right (south) by gravel road for about 1,3 km from the crossroad. Here you need to turn left through the village of Bojovidi, hamlets Selo and Begar, where you can refill your water reserves for the next route. Follow village vehicular road for 1,5 km and you will come to the huts in katun Previja which is owned by the Bojovid family. Here, smaller group can accommodate or put up tents. From Andrijevica to Previja N= 42° 42´ 18˝ E= 19° 48´ 31˝ 1255 you need to hike for about 2,5 h. The trail is marked by standard summer markings and signalization. Pay attention to the turnoff for the village of Bojovidi from the road Andrijevica – Kuti in order to find a spring in Begar. The fifth route is ended by entering katun Previja. For the next route, local guide who knows Zeletin and Visitor is obligatory.
ITINERARY 6
Previja – Stubica (1490) – Luški katun – puddle – Garevine – puddle and well in katun Bare – Goveđak (2039) viewpoint – Rogovi – Gropa saddle (1994) – tt.2059 – Drekina kosa (1916) – (peak of Zeletin 2112) – puddle Misa (1917) – Misa – Mutna lokva (1931) – k.2095 (viewpoint Tatarijsko – Beškeda lake) – northern slopes of Kacuber – katun Ravna (1870) – Visitorska crvena lokva (1997) – peak Somina (2138)
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– k.2182 – saddle – southern peak k.2210 – ridge of Visitor – Krivi smet (Bandera) 2211 - Visitorske livade – Mramorje (1810) – Visitorsko lake(1755)
Start: katun Previja
Finish: Visitorsko lake, katun Mramorje
Total length: 27,6 kilometers
Highest point: 2211 masl
Lowest point: 1255 masl
Necessary time: 10:30 h
Difficulty: demanding
Markings: summer standard of PSCG and signposts on grassy surfaces
UTM waypoints:
34T 4725219 402970, puddle
34T 4724632 403144, katun Bara
34T 4722495 403684, peak Goveđak
34T 4722234 404728, saddle Grope
34T 4720762 404024, Drekina kosa
34T 4719342 404141, Mutna lokva
34T 4717566 407694, peak Somina
34T 4718201 408660, peak Visitor
34T 4719749 408248, katun Mramorje
34T 4719812 408157, meadown near Visitorsko lake
Trail of the sixth route is made of hiking trail 555 and partly 551 which is very demanding. From huts of the Bojovid family (where you can set your tents) we start our hiking ina group with experience guide in the early morning hours. We are moving by new forest path which goes to saddle Previje 1255 from which we need to turn in the direction of south by forest path which goes through young beech forest. You will be able to see markings on trees. We will find a crossroad at 1,5 km from the saddle, where we will notice forest path from Luge. Futher, we are going in the direction of south by following markings on trees and start climbing at k.1490 Stubica where forest path from Ulotina, across meadows on eastern slopes of Goveđak leads to Stubica. From Stubica you will see Ulotina and Balj on the east side and Asanac and Komovi on the west side. We continue our climb by a rigde through the forest to Luški katun where we will have access to an open karst terrain with rare trees
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Katun Previja
Katun is abandoned and there are no traces of huts. Trail goes through narrow walley between two slopes. After 700 meters in the direction of south, you will see a puddle which does not dry up. N= 42° 40´ 24˝ E= 19° 48´ 57˝ 1774. We continue by south valley and will see numerous small sinkholes between Garevine on the west and nameless slope on the east of the same height (1868). The cove ends up with a broad grass sinkhole and plateau with small puddle and a well. This is perfect place for rest and to refill your water reserves. Katun Bara (Goveđak) N= 42° 40´ 05˝ E= 19° 49´ 05˝ 1825 can be found at Trojna previja, west from the well between Garevina and northwest slope of Goveđak, which can be used as a shelter from bad weather for smaller group or hikers. Here, the trail 555 branches in the direction of southeast cca 0,7 km by a slope towards main ridge of Goveđak, which is covered with conifers on the west side, and the east side is rocky and steep and goes towards katun Katunište. We have left 2,1 km to the peak Goveđak N= 42° 38´ 56˝ E= 19° 49´ 30˝ (2039). The peak is fantastic natural viewpoint and resting place.
From the peak, we continue by a ridge and then by western slope through sparse fores by gentle descent on the rocks. After 1,5 km, this path is connected with the path from direction of Rogovi and leads southeast under stone lodges west from peak Plana (2126), along the spring in katun and then further to saddle Gropa (1990) through endemic pine forest. This part of the trail is demanding and you should pay additional attention during moving through rocks and grass. Katun Gropa is abandones, however you can set up a tent near the spring towards saddle.
*** Climb from saddle Rogovi (2012) to the peak Goleša (2126) is possible for more experience hikers with return by cattle path to the saddle Gropa at your own risk.
From the saddle Grope N= 42° 38´ 48˝ E= 19° 50´ 16˝ 1990 hiking trail 555 is marked and leads along the ridge through dense coniferous forest across tt.2059 to saddle on Drekina kosa N= 42° 38´ 00˝ E= 19° 49´ 46˝ 1916. Winds and snow burdens are very frequent in this part of the trail. Carefully follow the markings. Markings are put along the trail by the ridge Misa near larger puddle Misa, and after 500 meters we come to Mutna lokva N= 42° 37´ 14˝ E= 19° 49´ 52˝ (1931). One hundred meters south, the trail separates by western slope towards Duljov katun. Follow left (east) trail with markings on trees and rocks and at the next crossroad, follow markings of hiking trail towards southeast to peak 2095 from which you will see Tatarijsko (Beškeda) lake, then descend by northern slope in the direction of east and include to forest path by north slope of Kacuber to katun Ravna (1870) where several huts exist – katun as a temporary shelter.
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On the eastern edge of clearing of katun Ravna, forest trails branch. The left one (553) is a shortcut which leads to Visitorsko lake via Peporani, and the right one, unmarked leads to katun on the western slope of Somina. Hiking trail 555 from this crossroad is marked by western ridge and leads along Crvena lokva to peak Somina N= 42° 36´ 18˝ E= 19° 52´ 29˝ (2138) and from eastern peak of Somina (2182) to saddle Maja e Ljugu i bors and south peak of Visitor (2198) and 2210. From this peak, we continue by the ridge in the direction of north for one kilometer and we get to the peak Visitor N= 42° 36´ 39˝ E= 19° 53´ 11˝ 2211 (Krivi smet or Bandera). First and only orientation plate in Montenegro can be found at this peak. From Visitor and Krivi smet peak, especially attractive are views towards Prokletije, Plav basin and lake Plav.
Katun Mramorje Visitorsko lake
Descent from the peak goes along norther ridge, then along eastern slope of middle peak and saddle near Glava (2015) to katun Mramorje N= 42° 37´ 29˝ E= 19° 52´ 52˝ 1810 and Žižina’s mountain hut. Visitorsko lake is located 400 m northwest from katun Mramorje with two new huts and plateau Proplanak where you can set up your tents N= 42° 37´ 31˝ E= 19° 52´ 48˝. It should be noted that forest gravel road to the lake is breached from Pepidi (Murino) as well as marked mtb trail. Sixth day of ViP Dinarica demanding tour ends up here. Take a rest in silence in coniferous forest near the lake, it will suit to all who have mastered this route. There is a small floating island on the lake that, according to legend, served shepherds to protect flocks from beasts.
Mountains Zeletin and Visitor are very rich in flora and fauna, with several endemic and relict plants (pine Molika), and wides area is still insufficiently explored. The area of Visitorsko lake is protected as a natural monument within Prokletije National Park.
ITINERARY 7
Visitorsko lake – Velika gropa – botanical garden Velemun – Đurička river – Treskavička river – Veliki Hrid – Krš Bogidevice - Hridsko lake
Start: Visitorsko lake
Finish: Hridsko lake
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Length: 24 km
Necessary time: 10:00 h
Difficulty: demanding
Markings: summers standards of PSCG and signposts on grassy surfaces
UTM waypoints:
34T 4719749 408248, Žižina's hut
34T 4720069 409755, Velika gropa
34T 4718653 411901, botanical garden Velemun
34T 4716598 413357, Đurička river
34T 4716807 416460, Treskavička river
34T 4716190 416452, turnoff before the bridge
34T 4715077 419288, Veliki Hrid
34T 4714486 419692, Krš Bogidevica (Hridsko lake)
From Visitor – i. e. Visitorsko lake and Žižina's hut (1810) start hiking earlier in orderr to get to the destination during daylight. Hikig trail 541 to Plav (Plavski bridge 912 mnm) is the part of ViP Dinarica and it is marked through the forests, which requires additional attention.
From Žižina's hut, N= 42° 37´ 29˝ E= 19° 52´ 52˝ go to the east and by northern slope Glava through the forest. After one kilometer of descending, you will reach a new road to Pepidi and then by road serpentines to Velika Gropa near a hut and a spring N= 42° 37´ 40˝ E= 19° 53´ 58˝ 1630 where you can take a short break. Go further by the road for about 100 meters and turn on the forest path right (northeast) by following markings. Through the forest, the trail is flat and you will reach the ridge called Samar. Pay attention about the markings when you come to the crossing of multiple paths. Follow the path in the direction of southeast and after 500 meters you will get to the meadow Bulatovida ornica.
Meadow is a suitable place for a short break and viewpoint towards Plav and Veliki hrid. On the edge of the forest there is drinking fountain from which, across meadow and edge of the forest, marking trail goes through beech forest and descends in bigger meadow. Descending should be continued by northern edge of the meadow by forest path, which goes through Gaj forest straight to hamlet Kudište. Here the descent finishes, you will leave Visitor massif and go down to peaceful valley called Brezojevice. The trail through Brezojevice is asphalt road through the orchards and farms to the crossroad at the road Murino – Plav. Near the crossroad N= 42° 36´ 55˝ E= 19° 55´ 33˝ 910, botanical garden Velemun can be found which is worth visiting. Continue further right towards south to crossroad for Gusinje and Plav. From the crossroad (triangle) turn left, then across the bridge over Lim river towards Plav town center which will take about 2,5 km. There you can find bus station, information center of LTO and NP Prokletije.
LAKE PLAV
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Lake Plav is the largest glacial lake in Montenegro. It is situated on a spacious Plavsko – gusinjska basin, i.e. tectonic depression between Visitor and Prokletije massif at 908 meters above sea level. It is the lowest glacial lake in Montenegro due to the impact of the longest glacier in the Pleistocene on the powerful frontal moraine near Plav. It is 2,16 km long, one kilometer wide and 9,10 meters deep. The water level varies an average of 1,5 km. In the summer, the lake is perfect for swimming and water sports. In the winner, the lake is frozen. It is rich in fish and serves as a natural spawning ground for the entire river Lim basin. The water comes from the basin of river Ljuča. River Lim is the flow of lake Plav, which is the largest water flow of northeast Montenegro and the largest tributary of the river Drina.
Lake Plav
PLAV
Plav is a town and municipality in Montenegro which is formed in the Middle Ages on a hill between lake Plav and Đurička river N= 42° 35´ 49˝ E= 19° 56´ 38˝ 960 masl. Data about settlements of Plavsko – gusinjska basin date back to the Neolithic period. Toponyms indicate the presence of Illyrians and Greeks, while there are traces of Roman culture as well. Slovenian tribes inhabitet this place at the beginning of VII century. In the early Middle Ages, this area is under the rule of Serbian mayors and kings. In the Middle Ages, this area was a part of despotism of Vuk Brankovid and property of monasteries of Ped and Dečani to the Turkish conquest in 1455. The trace of thisi time is Brezojevice monastery. Plav was built in the Ottoman state (XVI – XVII century) in order to prevent the influence of Clement. Construction and establishement of settmenets, trade and craft shops (squares), cultural and religious institutions as well as military fortifications which is completed in 1619. Traces from that period are the old mosque and tower Redžepagid in the town, as well as remains of cross-border towers. Plav was taken over by Montenegrin army in October 1912 in the Balkan war. Plav later became a part of the Kingdom of Montenegro, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and aftet World War II, as part of Yugolavia when it developed rapidly and became economically stronger. Perspective of Plav is tourism development through valorization of natural resources of NP Prokletije and lake Plav.
Coming in town center should be used to purchase supplies in order to continue hiking, collecting information in info centers of LTO and NP Prokletije, sign for crossing the border at the occassional (connections) border crossings at border police. In the main street you can find restaurant, caffes where you can refresh yourself and visit the old mosque and tower Redžepagida which is found nearby. For
158 those who want to spend couple of days here, you can find accommodation and a guide through the LTO.
We continue hiking by the trail 540 which is a segment of Peaks of the Balkans, from the crossroad near info center NP Prokletije by the main road, across the bridge on Đurička river (here you can find market and buy some local products). Follow the signposts and at first crossroad near the cemetery (k. 959) turn right towards Prnjavor. By coming to the first crossroad, continue straight towards new forest path towards north by ascent to the curve and last houses above the village of Korita where is the perfect place for a rest and viewpoint towards Plav, lake Plav and Gusinje valley. Follow the marakings for the new road towards forests of the north ridge Kofiljača and continue by new forest path near the lake in Boncova towards katun Polja (k.1217). After coming to the east slope, follow the path to the left towards Treskavička river from the crossroad N= 42° 35´ 57˝ E= 19° 58´ 54˝ 1240. Here the trail goes straight to the bridge on the river and onto a gravel road by upstream of Treskavička river.
After river crossing, turn right (upstream) and after 100 meters come to the deviation from the gravel road, before bridge in the firection of southeast N= 42° 35´ 37˝ E= 19° 58´ 54˝ 1185. After 200 meters of slight ascent, you come to the meadows of katun Treskavica where you turn left at the first crossroad in the direction of the north until the exit from the forest and first huts in the katun where you should turn in the direction of southeast by a ridge for about one kilometer from the huts under the forest. It’s a nice view towards Kofiljača and Meteh from this place. Here the area of National park begins. This katun is active during the summer to late autumn and there are conditions for sheltering from bad weather and supply of domestic products and forest fruits. The trail is marked by a ridge through coniferous forest.
Mountain lodge Hrid
By following markings on trees, after 1,2 km turn from the crossroad in the forest to the right, continue through the meadow and through the cove by climbing by northern slope to the top with sparse vegetation on the west side N= 42° 35´ 02˝ E= 20° 00´ 59˝ 2011 of Veliki Hrid. The peak is a natural viewpoint for the east part of the National Park and nature reserve Hridsko lake. The border zone is the near of the peeak and extends towards the ridge of Veliki Hrid. The trail is marked through sparse conifer forest and blueberry fields and after less than a kilometer, you come to the forest path from Babino Polje across Hrid huts (7,5 km) which passes next to the mountain shelter Krš Bogidevice N= 42° 34´ 43˝ E= 20° 01´ 17˝ 1996. By coming to this shelter, the seventh stage of ViP Dinarica ends. Here, six to eight hikers can spend the night in a shelter in sleeping bags and/or set up a tent on the meadow near the shelter. CAUTION! Lighting a fire is prohibited. Hridsko lake can be found 1,3 km southeast, which is worth visiting and enjoy the rest of the day in the silence and scents of nature. Entrance is charged by ranger service of the National Park.
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Hridsko lake
ITINERARY 8
Shelter (1955) – Hridsko lake 1936 – saddle 2060 – border tower shelter 2091 – saddle Mala Bogidevica 2100 – Maja e Spalit 2203 –Triple border (Ravno brdo) 2242 > connection with Kosovo - Rupa dobroš (towards Dafa bogides and Đeravica)
Start: Hridsko lake
Finish: Triple border, connection with Kosovo
Length: 8,4 km
Highest point: 2243 masl
Lowest point: 1936 masl
Necessary time: 3:00 h
Difficulty: demanding
Markings: summer standard of PSCG and signposts on grassy surfaces
UTM waypoints:
34T 4714486 419692, Hridsko lake
34T 4714486 419692, shelter on Veliki Hrid
34T 4712705 421724, abandoned border tower
34T 4712213 424340, Tromeđa (Triple border)
National Park Prokletije is the youngest, fifth Montenegrin National Park which was established in 2009. It covers the part of mountain territories of Plav and Gusinje. National Park covers an area of 16 630 hectares. It stretches from Gusinje and Plav mountain range, along the border with Albania with many peaks which are over 2200m: Trojan, Karanfili, Bjelid, Bor Šdapica, Horolec Triple border and Krš Bogidvica with two nature reserves such as Hridsko lake and Volušnica. Separated protected areas of lake Plav and Visitorsko lake are also included in the National Park. Grebaje valley, Ropojana, Babino
160 polje and Đurička river are natural approaches to katuns and mountain peaks. The highest peaks of Montenegro, Zla Kolata and Maja Rosit are within the zone of the Park. Significant forest complexes, glacial cirques, cliffes and meadows rich in diverse and endemic flora of Southern Alps, as Prokletije are usually called by botanists, and protected animals and beasts are also in the Park zone. Relief is jagged with numerous peaks, ridges bound into a wreath, steep slopes, river valleys and hydrographic objects. The climate is sub-alpiine. Maximum precipitation are characteristic for late autumn and the beginning of winter. Snow cover is present from 90 to 210 days. Park has established ranger services with info points in Grebaje, Gusinje and Plav. Albania and Kosovo established parks at the borders with NP Prokletije, which form a geo morphological unit and the basis for international cooperation. Valorization of the Park content in tourist and scientific purposes takes place nowadays.
Hridsko (Ridsko) jezero N= 42° 34´ 43˝ E= 20° 01´ 17˝ 1970 is the jewel of mountain lakes in Montenegro and it is located in northeastern part of Prokletije in nature reserve of the National Park Prokletije, in a wide area between Veliki Hrid (2011), Hridski Krš (2358), Krš Bogidevica (2374) and Mali Hrid (2092) and it is surrounded by coniferous forest. The lake is one of the most beautiful mountain lakes in Montenegro and it is type of glacial lake. Flows operate at hight water level, but the water quickly dissapears and sinks. Shore of the lake (especially from the southwest and west side) has a lot of big stones of prismatic edges. This kind of stone can also be found in the lake water. The scientist Jovan Cvijid (in 1913) claimed that „glacial relief at the foot of Hridski krš is the best preserved in our country“. In the summer period, the lake is 295 meters long, 175 meters wide and 5 meters deep. The water is clear, therefore you can see the bottom of the lake, while lake freezes in the winter. The lake receives water from rain and melting snow from several smaller springs in the surrounding and at the bottom of the lake. Due to dense coniferous forest, the lake has special blue color. Water level is 1,5 meter during the year. It is poor in fish since 1957 as well as poor in food for fishes, the water is poorly heated. Hridsko lake is an exceptional natural value and it is declared by nature reserve in order to protect it.
The eighth stage is a connection with one of the stages on the territory of Kosovo in the direction of Đeravica or Bogdaš. The beginning of the eighth stage begins at the mountain shelder on Veliki Hrid N= 42° 34´ 43˝ E= 20° 01´ 17˝ 1996 by vehicular road and the trail 540 to Veliki Krš (2194) near the signposts. From the signposts, start moving by the cove between few pine and spruce trees and stone blocks for 350 meters on a rocky viewpoint of Hridsko lake N= 42° 34´ 15˝ E= 20° 02´ 02˝ 1970. After visiting the lake (30 minutes) go back and continue by vehicular road by which marked trail 541 goes by southwestern slope of Krš to large block in the direction of southeast through sparse coniferous forest. After 1,5 km and two smaller road serpentines in a gentle curve, you come to the open grassy slope where gravel vehicular road changes the direction towards east with a slight decline.
Triple border
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From the curve on the road, you will be able to see massif Đeravica, Triple border, Ujkov krš. Maja horolac where is the boundary line with Albania, towards albanian Prokletije and saddle Mala Bogidevica (2143). On the eastern plateau, after one kilometer, there is an abandoned border tower N= 42° 33´ 46˝ E= 20° 02´ 47˝ 2070. This border tower can be reached by southern slopes of Hridski krš which can be used as a shelter from bad weather. This place is known and windy with all the vagaries of the mountain.
Continue by the cove to the saddle where vehicular road from the crossroad continues towards katun Bogidevica and saddle Dafa bogides. Hiking trail 451 goes by narrow ridge of Maja e spalit which is border zone, therefore staying and crossing the border must be announced to the border police (Montenegrin in Plav). The trail is marked from stone border by northern side of the ridge along the border with Albania, 1,7 km below Triple border (2366). The trail from albanian katun Doberdol (which is part of the Peaks of the Balkans) goes this way. From here, in the direction of southeast, by southwestern slope you come to Ravno brdo between ridge of Triple border N= 42° 33´ 33˝ E= 20° 04´ 44˝ 2242 on the border with Kosovo and connection point. Climb to the top of Triple border is the part of the trail as special and exceptional viewpoint and continuation the path towards Đeravica. From the saddle, the trail descends to the spring and crossroad of trails for 600 meters in Rupa dobroš (towards Dafa bogides – north and Junička pločica – south).
Service providers on hiking trail
Information and contacts
Recommended accommodation, restaurants, agrotourism, producers of honey and other local products of the North of Montenegro.
DAY 1 – ZABOJSKO LAKE – CHURCH RUŽICA
1. Vukman Rovčanin, tel. +382 (0) 67 802 873, katun Zaboj, municipality Mojkovac:
Not far away from Zabojsko lake, household of the Rovčanin family provides accommodation for up to 10 people, in the period from May to October. Guests who spend the night here can enjoy food prepared by housewives – they will be served by homemade dairy and meat products and on family table traditional dishes such as boile lamb, bucketwheat pie, cicvara, kačamak can be found. Visitors will enjoy fantastic landscape and experience life on village, while watching hard-working hosts doing their everyday activities on the farm. Kind host can also organize various hiking tours in order to get familiar with the environment. Near the house, towards the lake, household own small caffe where travelers can take a break.
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2. Vučeta Stanišid, tel. +382 (0) 69 910 988, katun Planinica, (Crvena Ploča, near katun Zaboj) municipality Mojkovac:
This kind host lives in katun with his wife in the period from April to November. Visitors, enjoying warm family atmosphere, can talk with our hosts and find out more about village lifestyle, they can see grandmother while knitting, or housewife preparing cottage cheese, grandchildren playing with goatsand create true picture of life in katun, and of their village Dobrilovina, which can be found in Tara river canyon, where they live throughtout the year. This household can accommodate up to five person and all visitors will be served by quality dairy products, homemade bread, teas, etc.
3. Stevan Španjevid, tel. +382(69) 554 962, katun Planinica, mountain Sinjajevina, municipality Mojkovac:
The Španjevid family lives in katun Planinica, on Sinjajevina mountain in the period from May to October. Kind host Stevan, who works as ranger in National Park Durmitor will gladly help all travelers and provide information about National Park, Sinjajevina mountain and other natural attractions that can be found nearby. Family and accommodate and serve food for couple of persons, while dairy products, meat from family production, homemade raspberry and blueberry juices can always be found on family table. Fresh mountain water can be found 500 m from household and is one of rare water springs on Sinjajevina.
4. Household of Ilija and Danka Popovid, katun Okrugljak, tel. 069 255 464:
In katun Okrugljak, which is considered to be the richest katun in Montenegro when it comes to livestock, household of the Popovid family resides from the beginnig of June until the end of October. In
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addition to opportunity to see how family takes care of 200 sheep and cattle, housewife Danka will show you how to milk a cow, make cheese and how to preserve meat and other products in a traditional way, due to lack of electricity. Visitors will find various products on family table, among which are dairy products, homemade juices, jams and teas, as well as meat specialties that are prepared and dried by family itself. Accommodation is provided for up to five persons in two huts in katun.
5. Household of Vladan Vuletid, katun Okrugljak, tel. 067 317 707:
The Vuletid family resides in katun from the beginning of June until the beginning of October, when they care of 300 sheep, horses and cattle. Visitors can hear interesting stories about katun from our host Vladan, who will present the way of life of families which traditionally reside in this part of Sinjajevina. This kind host received numerous awards for quality dairy products and lamb, while hard-working housewife prepares traditional dishes. Accommodation can be provided for 10 to 15 travelers and in order to experience this mountain in different way, the family offers horseback riding.
6. Household of Nikola Moračanin, Borova Glava, tel. 069 943 185:
Household of the Moračanin family, which resides in katun Borova Glava from the end of May to the end of September, unlike other families in this and nearby katuns, does not reside here due to cattle grazing. Moreover, they have only one cow and stay on the mountain for leisure, clean air and climate, which can be a remedy for some health problems. Housewife usually serves dairy products, blueberry juice, thyme, St.John's wort and sallow teas and visitors can taste traditional dishes, while for cooked lamb, they must be announced at least one day in advance. Family cottage provides accommodation for up to seven people.
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7. Household of Obrad Miličid, Borova Glava, tel. 069 474 592: Household of Obrad Miličid resides in katun Borova Glava from the end of May to the end of October. The family takes care of 22 cows and 180 sheep and visitors can find out how demanding is to keep huge herd of cattle, but also can learn how to milk cow or sheep, make cottage cheese and do other activities at the farm. The Miličid family will serve homemade juices, pies made of nettle, meat and cheese, and unavoidable on the table are dairy products – sheep and cow milk, sour milk, cheese and cream.
8. Household of Vukota Vujisid, Borova Glava, tel. 069 464 938, 069 601 747:
At the slopes of Sinjajevina, in Borova Glava katun, the Vujisid family resides for years in the period from May to mid-October. In this humble village household, visitors can taste homemade products such as cheese, beef and pork ham, milk, vegetables from the garden etc. The area is rich in blueberries, therefore housewife makes homemade blueberry juice, but do not miss to taste plum and apple brandy as well. This place is not covered with mobile phone signal and electricity, so visitors will feel what life used to be like in Montenegrin katunsand realize that this way of life some families still practice today.
DAY 2 – CHURCH RUŽICA – MOJKOVAC – M. LODGE DŽAMBAS
1. Mountain Lodge „Ckara“, Mojkovac, tel.067 888 866, 067 284 582, Goran Rabrenovid:
Mountain Lodge Ckara is located at 1624 meters above sea level in katun of the same name on Sinjajevina mountain. It is opened for all visitors in the period from May to October. It is built in accordance with the environment and accommodation capacity comprises 40 beds. Near Mountain Lodge, there are attractive locations such as paragliding take-off site (site called Pogledala), caves, climbing rocks and others, therefore in addition to relaxation and traditional food, environment has enough interesting content for all active guests. Every year, cultural and entertainment events related to this area are organized, such as Memorial Krcko, celebration of St. Peter's day etc.
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2. Eco village Dorid, Podbišde - Gacka, Mojkovac, Radoje Dorid, tel. 067 353 375:
Eco village Dorid is established in a quiet place intended for relaxation and offers many opportunities for recreation. When it comes to accommodation, offer comprises three comfortable and modern houses. Farm also consists of summer house and small playground, which makes this area perfect for families. The area is rich in mushrooms and friendly hosts can organize collecting and preparing of porcini, chanterelle, morels and champignons and in addition to traditional dishes and products, you can taste juices made from Siberian chokeberry (aronia) and raspberry, collected from the family plantation, which is located nearby.
3. Rakočevid Estate, Podbišde, Mojkovac, Vlatko Rakočevid, tel. 069 022 286:
Rakočevid Estate, hidden in the village of Gacka, represents true paradise for nature lovers. On large farm, accommodation is organized in various facilities – houses, apartments and bungalows, and visitors can enjoy the taste of dishes from national cuisine in a restaurant and the summer garden. For those who want extra comfort, there is a spa centre with pool, sauna and gym and in the immediate vicinity basketball, football and tennis court can be found. Offered activities comprise rafting, paragliding, biking, hiking and jeep safari and there is a possibility of renting bike equipment.
4. Hotel Dulovid, Mojkovac, Dulovid Zoran, tel. 050 472 615, 067 631 654:
Hotel Dulovid is located in Mojkovac town centre, a town which is situated between two mountain massifs – Sinjajevina and Bjelasica and National Park Biogradska gora can be found nearby as well. This hotel is characterized by modern and comfortable accommodation, which is suitable for all tourists who wish to enjoy untouched nature which surrounds Mojkovac. Hotel offer comprises seven rooms with
166 total capacity of 18 beds. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, with bathrooms, internet and central heating. Hotel has restaurant and summer garden with the capacity of 200 seats where you can taste different traditional dishes, while caffe on the ground floor can visit 40 persons.
5. National restaurant Kozak, Mojkovac, tel. 067 814 408:
At three kilometers from Mojkovac, authentic architecture of Kozak restaurant is inspired by savardak attracks all travelers who are to be find on the main road, from which restaurant is only 10 meters away. The ambiance where you can feel the spirit of ancient times with large fireplace in the middle of the restaurant which is built by wood and stone, hospitality of staff and warm atmosphere make that guests of this restaurant always come back. Kačamak, cicvara, meat on “peasant” way, homemade brandies are just part of rich offer of specialties of traditional dishes and beverages. The restaurant has a hall on two levels with summer garden in which guests can enjoy in the natural shade of oak and birch.
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6. Motel „Krstac“, Mojkovac, tel. 069 264 254, e-mail: [email protected]:
At five kilometers from Mojkovac, motel Krstac is located along the main road Podgorica – Beograd. River Tara can be found near the motel, which makes this place perfect for rafting lovers as well. Accommodation capacity comprises comfortable and modern rooms which meet the highest standards, with separated bathrooms, and this complex also offers functional bungalows. From all accommodation capacities, you can see magnificent nature and mountains that surround this motel. There is a parking lot in front of motel and visitors can enjoy and taste national as well as international dishes. Kind staff is always at your service in order to provide all necessary information about attractive surrounding.
7. Mountain Lodge Dzambas, Mojkovac, Mido Sošid, tel. 067 554 351:
Mountain Lodge Dzambas is located on Bjelasica mountain, at the foot of Mučnica peak. Accommodation capacity comprises 50 beds and on the ground floor there is spacious living room. Lodge is open for all hikers and nature lovers. Kind housewife is in charge for food and she prepares traditional dishes such as kačamak, cicvara, different kind of pies etc… Suitable location of this Mountain Lodge represents starting point for all hiking expeditions, led by experienced mountain guide Mr. Mido Sošid. The most important events organized by Mountain Lodge are Memorial March Dušan Bulatovid - Dzambas which is held in June, while winter games in snow are usually organized during winter months.
DAY 3 – M.LODGE DŽAMBAS – KATUN VRANJAK
1. Household of Slavica Dubak, katun Šiška, tel. 067 417 711:
Household of the Dubak family is situated in katun Šiška, where they reside from June to October. Location of the household is ideal because it is located near Šiško and Ševarinsko lake, therefore
168 represents ideal place for refreshment after hiking tours. Family lives in fully functional old hut, which is difficult to find nowadays. In addition to livestock, the family is into beekeeping, so guests can also try meadow honey. Housewife Slavica is there to make the atmophere even better with traditional appetizers and to tell you interesting stories related to this area, while visitors will be able to try quince jam.
2. Mountain Lodge Vranjak, katun Vranjak, Bjelasica, Dragan Tapuškovid, tel. 067 289 435:
Mountain Lodge Vranjak is located on the slopes of Bjelasica mountain. Suitable location allows hiking tours and visit to the most important natural attractions such as Biogradska river, Crna Glava peak and many glacial lakes that can be found nearby. Mountain Lodge comprises accommodation capacity of 24 beds in six comfortable rooms. Housewife prepares traditional dishes such as kačamak, priganice, meat, goulash, and grilled dished as well as dairy products from local producers are also offered. If groups want to be accommodated in Mountain Lodge, it is necessary to announce couple of days in advance, in order to prepare food on time.
3. Eco katun Vranjak, katun Vranjak, Bjelasica, Miki Bulatovid, tel. 069 400 094:
Eco katun Vranjak, on Bjelasica mountain, na Bjelasici, was formed on the basis of tradition and life of Montenegrin Highlanders centuries back. In katun, you can taste traditional products and specialties and guests who want to spend couple of days surrounded by fantastic nature, bungalows with total capacity of 100 beds are offered as well. For those who want to spend active holiday, kind hosts can organize hiking tours and give you possibility to visit surrounding peaks and natural and natural attractions as well as jeep safari, canyoning, cycling and skiing, while you can rent horses and ride to the nearby peaks of National Park.
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4. Mountain lodge Krivi Do, Krivi Do:
Mountain lodge Krivi Do in this katun on Bjelasica mountain is newly built facility. Tucked among green valleys, this mountain lodge is open throughout a year for all visitors and travelers. At the ground floor you can find kithen, large living room as well as two toilettes. At the first floor, there are comfortable bedrooms with wooden beds, while hikers should take with themselves their sleeping bags. This mountain lodge is a great place for resting, spending nights or shelter due to bad weather. Large groups of hikers can accommodate within this mountain lodge.
DAY 4 – KATUN VRANJAK – KATUN ŠTAVNA
1. Eco house and katun “Trešnjevik”, Andrijevica, tel. 067 400 361, Ljubiša Radovid:
Eco house and katun Trešnjevik can be found at Trešnjevik saddle, between Komovi and Bjelasica. In household of Ljubiša Radovid, you will have the possibility to see various ethnographic collection of artefacts, as well as to accommodate and taste local food. Accommodation capacity comprises two rooms in which up to six persons can be accommodated and when it comes to food, family will offer you goat meat or lamb prepared on steam which can be considered a specialty of this region, as well as dried meat from the family production, cicvara, nettle pie and dairy products. In cooperation with sports clubs from Berane, Rožaje, Plav and Andijevica, they gladly organize hiking, biking or rafting tours as well as fly fishing.
2. Inn “Trešnjevik”, Andrijevica, tel 069 652 940, Savo Lekid:
Inn Trešnjevik has a tradition more than 40 years long. It is situated along the road, not far from Komovi, therefore represents perfect place for a short break or lunch break. When it comes to traditional dishes, they offer goat meat or lamb prepared under the bell or on grill, kačamak, as well as homemade products such as cheese, milk, sour cream etc. Specialties made of mushrooms that
170 can be collected within nearby forests are emphasized – porcini and chanterelle that can be collected in the middle and at the end of summer, which can be tasted fried or prepared in a soup. Within the inn, there is also restaurant area with the capacity of 150 up to 180 seats.
3. Eco katun „Štavna“, Štavna, Andrijevica, tel. 067 380 532, 069 550 009, Branko Guberinid:
Eco katun Štavna is situated at the foot of Komovi, from which you can see magnificent peaks of this mountain massif and which is only two kilometers away from this katun. Kind hosts provided for all hikers and nature lovers accommodation in ten bungalows with the capacity of up to six beds in each bungalow. In every spacious bungalow, there is bathroom as well as wood stove, which will make your mountain nights warmer and more comfortable. Within katun, there is restaurant as well as summer garden in which you can try traditional dishes such as kačamak, meat specialties, nettle pie and homemade products made by housewife herself.
DAY 5 – KATUN ŠTAVNA – VILLAGE BOJOVIDI (PREVIJA)
1. Hotel Komovi, Slobodan Guberinid, Andrijevica, tel. 069 045 911:
Because of its fantastic location, content and offered services, hotel Komovi represents ideal place for hikers and all nature lovers. Hotel is based on development of mountain, sports, katun, rafting as well as hunting and fishing tourism. Accommodation comprises 42 rooms and one apartment. At 500 meters from hotel, there is soccer stadium, tennis court and gym. For those who want to visit surrounding mountains, experienced mountain guide is at your service, who guides both summer and winter tours. Hotel has a possibility of renting and servicing bicycles, which represent perfect place for visitors who want to experience the north of Montenegro on two wheels.
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2. Caffe SNACK BAR 85, Dragica Filipovid, Andrijevica, tel. 068 604 504:
Caffe Snack bar 85 can be found in Andrijevica city center and this business was established in 1978. Capacity comprises 40 seats, while summer garden can accommodate 20 more guests. It represents beautiful place for short break and caffe offers alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, while caffe’s owner produces plum, pear and apple fruit brandy, homemade blackberry, blueberry and raspberry juice. They are recognized for hospitality and kindness, and cake lovers can taste couple of different homemade cakes and ice-creams that can be found in the caffe.
3. Household of Milun and Milijana Bojovid, village Bojovidi, Andrijevica, tel. 069 662 080:
In the village of Bojovidi, not far from Andrijevica city center, you can find household of Mr. Milun Bojovid. Family home tucked among green valleys, with fantastic view over often snowy peaks of Komovi can be found two kilometers from katun Previja, where family has mountain huts in which summer days can be spent and this area is rich in pure mountain water. Cuisine of housewife Milijana is famous and recognizable, and cooked cheese, i.e. cottage cheese melted on fire and which can be tasted with cooked potato or homemade bread is recognized as specialty of this area. Hospitable hosts can prepare lunch for up to 15 persons, but group should be announced couple of days in advance.
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DAY 6 – BOJOVIDI – VISITORSKO LAKE
1. Household of Dejan Rajkovid, Visitorsko lake, tel. 067 253 686:
At 200 meters from katun Mramorje and at 500 meters from the main road, near Visitorsko lake, there is hut of Mr. Dejan Rajkovid which is opened throughout a year for all travelers. koja je otvorena preko cijele godine za sve putnike namjernike. There is a wood stove within this simple hut, but it can accommodate up to eleven people. The area is covered by a telephone signal. If you announce, host can prepare roast lamb, kačamak with potato and grilled dishes, and mountain stream can be found nearby therefore drinking water is available. Also, host produces apple, pear and plum brandy as well as teas from the plants from the nearby meadows.
2. Household of Dražan Rajkovid, Kupušnjak, tel. 067 472 123:
Mountain hut of host Mr. Dražan Rajkovid can be found in the place called Kupušnjak and is six kilometers away from Mramorje katun. Situated in thick coniferous forest, mountain hut is opened throughout a year for all travelers, and it can accommodate up to six people. Wood stove can be found within the hut, and in front of it there is mountain stream with fresh water. Kind host can organize tours of visiting peak of Visitor mountain, Visitor lake and other interesting activities such as collecting blueberries and forest strawberries, horseback riding, and in winter, popular activities as snowshoeing and ski touring.
3. Household of Milan Dašid, katun Mramorje, tel. 068 294 246:
Mountain huts of Milan Dašid are located in katun Mramorje. Although this kind host lives in Plav throughout a year, not far from the katun, he has bungalows in katun Mramorje that are at disposal to all travelers. In addition to accommodation, Milan emphasize that he can guide groups to the near natural attractions such as peak Visitor and Visitorsko lake. In addition to guiding groups, you will
173 have the opportunity to try homemade dairy products, fruits and vegetables, collect teas from nearby meadows and the host will prepare some traditional dishes that are particular for this area.
4. Household of Srđan Rajkovid, katun Mramorje, tel. 068 244 279:
If you decide to visit Visitorsko lake which is a jewel of the northeast of Montenegro, do not miss to visit katun Mramorje which is located nearby. This katun provides fantastic view towards the surrounding and it is located near town Plav where you can visit other attractions as well. Host Srđan Rajkovid has a hut on katun Mramorje where he offers accommodation for travelers. For interested guests, he offers horseback riding, and do not forget to taste homemade brandy and dairy products. This host will explain you all about medicinal herbs and teas that can be found nearby and you can also hear lot of useful information about this area.
DAY 7 – VISITORSKO LAKE – PLAV – BABINO POLJE
1. Aqua Resort, Admir Šahmanovid, tel. 069 889 759, Plav:
Aqua Resort is situated on the very shore of Plavsko lake. Surrounded by fantastic nature, this resort is equipped according to the highest standards, therefore it meets requirements of all guests. This complex boasts with private beach from which water sports activities can be organized, therefore visitors can spend hot summer days on the waves of Plavsko lake. Spacious apartments and bungalows has a view towards Plavsko lake and town of Plav and restaurant of national cuisine can be found on the ground floor, where guests can enjoy and taste traditional dishes. For visitors who are looking for adventure, resort can offer tours of visiting natural and cultural attractions and it is only six kilometers away from National Park Prokletije.
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2. Camp Lakeviews, Plav, tel. 067 672 683, Miroslav Martid:
For all camping and outdoor lovers, camp Lakeview can be found at the very entrance in the town of Plav and it operates since 2013. It is situated near Plavsko lake and 150 persons can be accommodated at camping site. Spacious area comprises part at which toilette and showers are located, while for guests who like to be situated in the appartments, family offers accommodation of total 45 beds. On the ground floor, there is restaurant in which visitors can taste national dishes. Hosts will provide all necessary information about town and surrounding.
3. Hotel “Kula Damjanova”, Plav, tel. 067 638 311, Olga Turkovid:
In ethno village Komnenovo, on the very shore of Plavsko lake, there is hotel Kula Damjanova which operates since 2009, in the period from May to October. Complex was built in ethno style, starting with restaurant on three floors to 43 accommodation capacities with total of 120 beds. Rooms provide beautiful view towards Plavsko lake, and peace of this ambience is additional reason for visiting. Trips to visit nearby natural attractions such as Grlja waterfalls, Grebaje valley, Hridsko lake and Ali Pašini streams can be organized. When it comes to food, kačamak without potato, veil under the bell, nettle dishes as well as blueberries and blackberries that are characteristic for month of August are some of specialties from this interesting menu.
4. Eco mountain resort „Hrid“ Babino polje, Plav, tel. 069 231 388, 068 871 550, Enes Dreškovid:
Mountain resort Hrid can be found at 12 kilometers from Plav, in the heart of the National Park Prokletije, on the road towards Hridsko lake. This resort offers bungalows with total accommodation
175 capacity of 26 beds. When it comes to food, for smaller groups of visitor, Mountain Lodge provide food supply, and when it comes to bigger groups, there is chef who prepares traditional dishes. Also, food can be served in nearby villages, where housewives will gladly meet the requirements of all travelers. Activities such as hiking tours, visiting katuns and lakes, organizing lectures in nature can be organized and nights are reserved for socializing by crackling campfire.
NOTE! Given that many partners are farmers and herders who spend their time working outside and in the mountains, in order to provide you with the highest quality of services and products, please pay attention and do not forget to be promptly announced.
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