14000 Miles, a Carriage and Two Women
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14000 I MILES A CARRIAGE AND TWO WOMEN FRANCES S. HOWE THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2007 witin funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/14000milescarria00lioweiala 14000 MILES A CARRIAGE AND TWO WOMEN FRANCES S. HOWE AWAY. AWAY. PKOM MKN AND TOWNS TO THB WILDWOOD AXD TUB DOW.VS." — Shelley. P R I V A T K I. Y P R I N T E l> 1 DOG Copyright, 1906, by Frances S. Howe. SBNTINBL PRINTING CO. FITCHBURG. ^ \\^^^?K^ FOREWORD. Many of these informal reports of more than 14,000 miles' driving were written for the Boston Evening Transcript some years ago, and the later letters for the Leominster Daily Enterprise. They cover an unbroken series of summer and autumn journeys, which have never lost any of the freshness and charm of that first little trip of two hundred miles along the Connecticut. A drive across the continent, or even on the other side of the water would seem less of an event to us now than that first carriage journey. This volume is a response to "You ought to make a book," from many who have been interested in our rare experience. F. C. A. F. S. H. Leominster, Mass. 1 SfV'^''^9 CONTENTS. I. Summer Travels in a Phaeton, . 1 II. Chronicle of the Tenth Annual Drive, 16 III. Old Orchard and Boston, ... 32 IV. MOOSILAUKE AND FrANCONIA NoTCH, . 48 V. Connecticut, with side trip to New Jersey, 73 VI. DixviLLE Notch and Old Orchard, . 91 VII. Catskills, Lake George and Green Mountains, 109 VIII. Narragansett Pier and Manomet Point, 127 IX. White Mountains and Vermont, . 137 (A Six HfSDRKD Milks Dkivb.) X. By Phaeton to Canada, .... 153 (NOTBS OP A SBVKN Hl'NDRBD MiLBS TKIP.) XI. Outings in Massachusetts, . 173 XII. Bar Harhor and Boston, .... 190 XIII. Dixville Notch and the North Shore, 211 XIV. The Kennehec Journey, .... 228 XV. On Hk.hwavs and Byways, . 241 (ISy-i. TO 1904.) XVI. Lake Me.mph rem agog 252 POSTSCRIPT. Buggy Jottings of Seven Hundred Miles Driving, 265 CiHCfiT OP THE Nkw Ksoi,and States. 14000 MILES 14000 MILES CHAPTER I. SUMMER TRAVELS IN A PHAETON. "We were a jolly pair, we two, and ladies at that ; and we had decided to go, amid the protestations of the towns-people and the remarks of Madam Grundy that it was not proper, and that there were so many tramps it was not prudent for two ladies to take a trip with their horse and carriage along the North Shore. Nevertheless, we take our lives in our hands, and 'do the trip' in a large comfortable, roomy buggy," etc. A letter in the Boston Evening Transcript, under the heading "Along the North Shore," from which the para- graph above is taken, so aptly describes a part of one of our journeys, that we cannot resist the temptation to tell you something of our travels, which our friends no longer consider daring and experimental, but a thor- oughly sensible and delightful way of combining rest and pleasure. In the summer of 1872, "we two, and ladies at that," made our trial trip, with the consent and approval of family friends for our encouragement, and the misgiv- ings and fears of those outside to inspire us with caution. Tramps were not in fashion, and I have forgotten what was the terror of those days. Like the "other two," we were equipped with a pet horse — safe, but with no lack 14000 MILES of spirit — a roomy phaeton, with lunch basket, wraps, books, fancy work and writing materials all at hand. Our bags, with rubber coverings, were strapped under- neath the carriage. Some cautious reader may like to know that we did not forget to put in the "box" a wrench, a bottle of oil, strong cord, etc., for emergencies. Of course we had a map, for geography was not taught very practically in our school days, and we should be lost without one. We made no definite plans beyond the first day, but had vaguely in mind, if all went well, to drive through the valley of the Connecticut River. Our first day's ride took us around Wachusett. We did not delay to climb its woody slopes, for we had many times visited our little mountain, and knew its charms by heart. It was new scenes we were seeking, and we were eagerly anticipating the drive along the Connecticut, fancying that much more beautiful and romantic than the familiar hills. It was not until we reached the hot, sandy roads, and were surrounded by tobacco fields, with rarely a glimpse of the river, that we realized that valleys are most enjoyable when seen from the hill-tops. The peculiar charm of the view from Mt. Holyoke we can never forget. A picture like that of the Northampton meadows, with the silvery river winding through them, we have found on no other hill or mountain-top. If this trial journey had proved our last, we would like to recall it in detail ; but, as it has been succeeded by others more extended, we must hastily pass by the nov- elty of our first crossing the Connecticut by ferry, the historic points of interest in old Deerfield, the terrific 2 14000 MILES thunderstorm just after we left Greenfield, the Broad Brook drive as we neared Brattleboro, the profuse quan- tity of lovely maidenhair ferns by the roadside, dripping with the morning rain, our lunch on the shore of Lake Spoflford, and so on to Keene and Jaflfrey. How can we so hastily pass over the ascent of grand old Monadnock? Perhaps we enjoyed it all the more for the repeated protests of the youthful proprietor of the Mountain House, who assured us the feat was im- possible, as the heavy showers which we had so much enjoyed in our morning drive had converted the path into a series of cascades. The mists which had entirely concealed the mountain were just breaking away, and we made the ascent in the face of warnings and water, yield- ing to no obstacles. Before we left the summit it was mostly clear, and we thought little of our moist condi- tion or the difficulties of the descent before us as we feasted our eyes, watching the showers as they moved oi) from village to village in the valley below, leaving a burst of sunlight in their wake. Our descent was rapid, notwithstanding difficulties, and when we reached the hotel, so delightfully located on the side of the mountain, we forthwith decided to prolong our stay. After a cosy supper, for we were the only guests, we repaired to the rocks to watch the sunset clouds, which are rarely finer. It was mild, and we lingered while the darkness gath- ered, until the mountain looked so black and lonely we did not like to think we had stood on that peak alone only a few hours before. While we watched, the clouds began to brighten, and soon the moon appeared in her full glory, making the whole scene one of indescrii)able 3 14000 MILES beauty. The next day was Sunday, and a lovelier day never dawned. The peculiar Sunday quiet pervaded the very atmosphere, and we sat on the rocks reading, writ- ing and musing all day, enjoying such a season of rest as one seldom experiences. Two days more passed, and we were safe at home, after an absence of only ten days, and about two hun- dred miles' driving, but with delightful recollections, which cannot be forgotten in a lifetime. This trial trip was so successful that when another summer came it was taken for granted by our friends that we should try again, and we started, equipped as before with map, but no plan — only an inclination to face north. Following this inclination took us through many thrifty towns and villages, and gave us delightful drives over hills and through valleys, until we found ourselves spending a night with the Shakers on the top of a high hill in Can- terbury, N. H. The brothers and sisters were unsparing in their attentions, though strict in certain requirements. We left them next morning, with a generous Shaker lunch in our basket, and turned our horse toward Alton Bay. As Brother George and Sister Philena assured us, it was the longest, roughest and loneliest ten miles' drive we had ever taken. The round trip on Lake Winnipi- seogee the following day was a delightful contrast. We now began to study our map, for we had not even a vague idea where next. We started at last, not anx- ious, but aimless; and after wandering several days in obedience to the will of the hour, landed on Wells Beach ; we passed Sunday on York Beach ; then drove on to Portsmouth, where we left our horse for a day to visit 4 14000 MILES the Isles of Shoals. The places of resort and interest as we followed the coast to Gloucester, Rye, Hampton, Sal- isbury, etc., are well known. After refreshing ourselves at Gloucester with rowing and moonlight bathing we returned to Newburyport, where we saw the homes of Lord Timothy Dexter, Harriet Prescott Spofford, and others of note. An excursion on the Merrimac in a barge, and the drive by the river road to Bradford and Haver- hill, we found very pleasant. It was in this vicinity that, for the first time, we were received ungraciously. The good landlady of an old-fashioned inn reluctantly re- ceived us, after rebuking us for the abuse of our horse, little knowing how much more thoughtful we were of him than of ourselves.