Journeys The magazine of the appalachian trail conservancy July — August 2012

inside: Big Bald Bird Banding ❙ Family Hiking ❙ Shared History: A.T. Presidential Visits ❘ Journeys From the Editor The Magazine of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy

Volume 8, Number 4 Appalachian migration. A protected path as unique as the A.T. offers all of its July — August 2012 visitors and natural inhabitants the freedom to progress, in both a literal and figurative sense. In this way the Appalachian Trail is a migratory path, providing hikers the autonomy to wander through lush fields, along roll- ing grassy balds, and up and over rugged but fiercely beautiful mountains from which they are given a glimpse Mission of the vantage point of high-flying birds. And by way of the Trail and its corridor, the birds too are given freedom The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s mission is to preserve and manage the Appalachian Trail — ensuring to travel — high above and safely through the fields, forests, and Appalachian Mountains of the eastern U.S. that its vast natural beauty and priceless cultural heritage can be shared and enjoyed today, tomorrow, Along the North Carolina and Tennessee mountains of the Trail, the Big Bald Banding Station, operated by and for centuries to come. volunteers from Southern Appalachian Raptor Research, monitors the passage of thousands of winged A.T. inhabitants. “[It] is one of very few banding stations in the U.S. that monitors and bands songbirds, raptors, and On the Cover: Nevena “Gangsta” owls. An average of 2,000 passerines are captured, banded, and safely released during each autumn migration Martin carefully crosses a stream in Board of Directors A.T. Journeys at Big Bald,” says volunteer Mark Hopey (page 24). These volunteers are also teaching future generations to Baxter State Park during a 10-mile trek J. Robert (Bob) Almand ❘ chair Wendy K. Probst ❘ Managing Editor understand and respect the importance of birds in the southern Appalachian ­— with her thru-hiking partner Amy William L. (Bill) Plouffe ❘ Vice Chair Traci Anfuso-Young ❘ Graphic Designer Mountains each summer during Vacation Bird School, where local elemen- “Wags” Armon — from Rainbow Kara Ball ❘ Secretary tary school students are immersed in a world of bird ecology through litera- Bridge to Katadhin Stream camp- Arthur Foley ❘ Treasurer Contributors ture readings, creative writing, applied arts, nest searching, bird banding, ground. “The crossing was deceivingly Lenny Bernstein Laurie Potteiger ❘ Information Services Manager and data collection techniques. intense — it took each of us about Richard Daileader Chris Loomis ❘ Proofreader Behind these idyllic Appalachian Trail scenes of humans, flora, and five minutes to maneuver across the Marcia Fairweather fauna positively coexisting, is a driving force consisting of thousands of The staff of A.T. Journeys welcomes hand-full of rocks to safely reach the Brian T. Fitzgerald people who support the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC), the A.T. editorial inquiries and comments. other side. Wags bravely crossed first, Mary Higley Park Office, and the multitude of organizations and volunteer groups (like E-mail: [email protected] even though she has a fear of water Terry Lierman the indispensable Trail-maintaining clubs and the ATC’s Trail crews) to crossings, and shot this photo as I Sandra (Sandi) Marra Observations, conclusions, opinions, and product keep this delicate balance obtainable. Exemplary of this was the recent, slowly made my way over,” explains Charles Maynard endorsements expressed in A.T. Journeys are those successful completion of a boardwalk along a problematic, swampy area Nevena. “That day was such a jubilant Elizabeth (Betsy) Pierce Thompson of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the A.T. in Pawling, New York (page 28). “Most A.T. visitors are well one — my husband, James, slack- Clark Wright Jr. of members of the board or staff of the Appalachian aware that the Trail typically follows the height of land across the ridge packed us, the Trail was so flat and Trail Conservancy. tops of the Appalachians and that valley crossings are less common. A easy, and Katahdin was literally just ATC Executive Staff tenet of A.T. trail design and construction is that the footpath ‘lie lightly Inset: A Vacation Bird School student around the corner so we all felt like we Mark J. Wenger ❘ Executive Director Advertising on the land’,” explains the ATC’s Mid-Atlantic regional director Karen gently holds a banded bird that is had our thru-hikes in the bag and Stephen J. Paradis ❘ Chief Operating Officer A.T. Journeys is published six times per year. Lutz. “This presents a dilemma for Trail designers who occasionally have about to be released back onto the giddily skipped our way down the Trail. Stacey J. Marshall ❘ Director of Finance Advertising revenues directly support the complex crossings across fragile terrain, such as the Swamp River wetland. A.T. – photo courtesy of Southern But in her very typical fashion, the Trail & Administration publication and production of the magazine, Accommodating lots of visitors, fragile habitat, and a desire to reach a Appalachian Raptor Research; showed us, via that stream crossing, Royce W. Gibson ❘ Director of Membership and help meet Appalachian Trail Conservancy simple aesthetic that is subordinate to, and does not overwhelm, the Background: Rhododendrons in full that the challenges of the A.T. never & Development objectives. For more information and advertising landscape is a challenge. Achieving those objectives requires a bit of sci- bloom on the A.T. in the Blue Ridge cease, and that the Trail will break you Laura Belleville ❘ Director of Conservation rates, visit: appalachiantrail.org/advertising. ence with a strong measure of art.” Mountains of Virginia – photo by down again and again in order to build Brian B. King ❘ Publisher Anyone who has set out on an excursion on the A.T. can attest to a feel- Tom Lawson. you back up.” Nevena and Amy had Javier Folgar ❘ Marketing & A.T. Journeys is published on Sterling Matte paper that is ing of emotional evolution. “Underneath all the dirt and sweat I am sure met by chance at the beginning of Communications Manager manufactured by NewPage Corporation, responsibly my eyes were shining and I was smiling,” says recent thru-hiker Nevena Martin (page 47). “Despite what one both of their hikes at Springer sourced, using allocated chain-of-custody certified fiber. might assume at first glance, I was not to be pitied, I was to be envied … I felt truly alive.” Photographer Mi- Mountain in Georgia. The two then It is printed with SoySeal certified ink in the U.S.A. by chael Pyle also felt this transition into “something far greater than himself.” Appropriate to the theme that stayed together all the way to Dartmouth Printing Company, Sterling, Virginia. his photos encapsulate (page 32), Michael explains his thoughts about a childhood hike to Bear Rocks in Katahdin (As I See It, page 47). Pennsylvania with his father: “I reached the summit out of breath, hands raw [and the] vista before my eyes was breathtaking. I imagined myself soaring over the pastoral scene, like the red-tailed hawk circling above.” For the animals and birds who inhabit it, the Trail provides the freedom to make necessary migrations each year, and for those fortunate humans who find themselves migrating the Trail for a day, a week, or several months at a stretch, it provides the freedom to process thought, gain new perspectives, and feel at peace as they A.T. Journeys ( ISSN 1556-2751) is published bimonthly travel — and their souls soar — along the highs and lows of this most magnificent, enduring path. for $15 a year by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, 799 Washington Street, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425, Membership Wendy K. Probst ❘ Managing Editor (304) 535-6331. Bulk-rate postage paid at Harpers Ferry, For membership questions or to become a member, call (304) 535-6331, ext. 119, West Virginia, and other offices. or e-mail [email protected]. A.T. Journeys welcomes your comments, story suggestions and photographs. Queries may be submitted via e-mail to [email protected]. Postmaster: Send change-of-address Form 3575 to A.T. Journeys, P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425. © 2012 Appalachian Trail Conservancy. All rights reserved. Get Social With Us

may — june 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 03 contents ❘ July — August 2012

❘ 10 ❘ features 10 A.T. Family Adventures In anticipation of Family Hiking Day, we suggest 10 great places to unwind and get back to nature with your family along the Trail. 18 One Shared History Before it was a trail, the A.T. was the heartland of ❘ 38 ❘ the American frontier — many U.S. presidents have extolled its beauty and assisted in its development, protection, and maintenance. departments

24 16 ❘ Trailhead Mountain Migration Trail to Every Classroom in Union County; In the high peaks of the mountains of North A.T. Museum Leaders Honored Carolina and Tennessee A.T. hikers might come ❘ 28 ❘ across volunteers who monitor songbirds, raptors, 38 ❘ Terra Incognita and owls with the Big Bald Banding Station. A member of the Potomac A.T. Club joins an old friend to support a capable and determined group of adventurous 03 ❘ From the Editor blind trailblazers explore new ground during a 28 pre-Trail practice hike. Not Bogged Down 06 ❘ Letters ❘ 24 ❘ Both science and art went into the careful, ❘ ❘ 42 trail stories two-year construction of the new Pawling Boardwalk, 08 Overlook In his book The Gentle Art of Wandering David Ryan keeping hikers’ feet dry and protecting swampy ❘ ponders the history and significance of lesser noticed, Inset: Volunteer, Kathy Gunther, wetlands on A.T. in New York. 44 Trail giving releases a sharp-shinned hawk after and somewhat hidden, landmarks on the Trail. ❘ measuring and banding on Big Bald 46 public notices ❘ (this page) – photo by James Petranka. 32 47 As I See It A Sense of Peace During her five-and-a-half month thru-hike of the Michael Pyle thrives on delivering feelings of A.T. Nevena Martin felt “truly alive.” serenity and a sense of “soaring over the pastoral scenes” with his A.T images.

july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 05 ❘ Letters

Thank you so much for the now live in northern Minnesota, which in the highlands. Thank you again TA C for well written article about Troutville, Vir- is beautiful in a different way, but I al- the opportunity to give back, forge new ginia (“Open Invitation,” May/June) in the ways treasure those Appalachian memo- friendships, and strengthen old ones — all recent issue of A.T. Journeys. The board of ries. Getting young people involved with while repairing Briar Ridge and building directors for T4T is truly touched and the Trail is the best way to preserve it. some great rock steps in my favorite section humbled in the way you portrayed the town Karen Stubenvoll on the Trail! A QUIVER OF that all of us love so much. Some even had Fairfield, Ohio Nick Nelson Green ONE. tears in their eyes while they were reading your story. Your article elevated commu- Although I was intrigued to nity pride in a way I have not experienced. find the article on World Trails in my My plumber called me and left a voice mail most recent issue of A.T. Journeys (“Walk- all excited about seeing the article. He ing This Planet,” May/June), I was cha- wanted to be sure I had a copy and if not, grined to read that the Camino de San- wanted to drop his copy off at my house tiago is in Chile. I just got back from — wow! I never thought my plumber was hiking about 100 miles of the Camino, that passionate about the work we were which is, indeed, in Spain. Anyway, A.T. ALL SEASONS. doing in Troutville, then I found out that he Journeys is otherwise great. My husband ALL FUELS. and his wife had hiked the entire A. T. be- and I have been hiking short sections of ONE STOVE. fore they settled down with their plumbing the A.T. since the late 60s. Buen Camino, business in this little town. What a small as they say on the Camino de Santiago. world. A million thanks for capturing the Pat Thompson vision, the hope, and the future [of Trout- Chapel Hill, North Carolina ville]. You have made a huge and positive ATC staff was delighted to see May/June cover and ©MOTOFISHIMAGES difference for all of us. Photo Essay artist Charles Aldridge at his booth at facebook comments Trail Days in Damascus, Virginia. Here, he displays Sybille Nelson Introducing the MSR® WhisperLite™ Universal hybrid-fuel stove. Troutville, North Carolina his cover image in front of the original painting. Just wanted to say thank you Find out more at www.msrgear.com/wlu to all the staff and volunteers who maintain Thanks for giving a paperless the Trail. We just had a great section hike A.T. Journeys welcomes your comments. option! I love the well-done electronic from Dicks Creek Gap to Neels Gap and The editors are committed to providing version. were really surprised how well and main- balanced and objective perspectives. What a nice story about the 4-H’ers tained the Trail and all the signposts looked Not all letters received may be published. in Unicoi County (“Promoting the Trail — as though they were recently replaced. Letters may be edited for clarity and length. from the Ground Up,” May/June). I lived Great job and thank you again! Please send them to: in nearby Johnson City, Tennessee in the Pete Price E-mail: [email protected] 1980s, discovered Beauty Spot Gap and Letters to the Editor other spectacular sections of the Trail, Just got back from another Appalachian Trail Conservancy then returned on a long hike in 1994. I week with Konnarock “Super” [Trail] crew P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-0807

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06 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 ❘ overlook Comparison of General Fund Revenue and Expense for 2011 and 2010 ended December 31 of each year

Public Information 1% Education & Outreach 2% In-Kind Contributions 1% Net Investment 1% 7% Development Income < 2011 annual reporLand Trustt< 1% 10% Other General & Over the last five years the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) has grown into a diversified 9% Administrative organization, reaching out to a broad range of constituents while continuing to offer 12% Sales traditional and innovative programs. We are proud of our many accomplishments in 2011. Membership 52% 9% Services 45% Volunteers and cooperative agency partners are central to our conserva- of the National Trails System. We were happy that our visits, along with tion work. In 2011 we wholeheartedly began to renew longstanding plans visits from partner organizations,Conservation resulted in the final $5 million dollar ap- Contractual and agreements that guide management of the Appalachian Trail. Local propriation from the Land and Water Conservation Fund for the 10,000-acre Services Management plans are the most important plans to ensure consistent Trail Rocky Fork tract in Tennessee. We also supported a Maine Forest Legacy management and are developed by volunteer A.T. clubs with staff support project that received $8.5 million of Land and Water Conservation Funds 15% and coordination. We have also been focused on renewing critical state and to protect nearly 18,000 acres of forested lands adjacent to the Trail in the agency agreements. These agreements ensure adequate support for Trail High Peaks area of Maine. 20% Memberships protection and management. As we begin to celebrate the 75th anniversary We are excited about the continued enthusiasm and growth of the new of the Trail’s completion, we also have much to be proud of in terms of the Appalachian Trail Community™ program. The program is a multi-year approach Publications & Marketing Public Support 15% organizational structure in place to support complex working relationships to engaging communities along the Appalachian highlands towards meaning- that have created and support one of the most effective trail projects in the ful protection of natural resources and access to public lands for learning, in- world. This past year, the ATC’s conservation director was invited to share our spiration, and community building. We are aiming to maximize the contribution Public Information 1% Education & Outreach 2% In-Kind Contributions successful model at the second World Trail Conference in South Korea, speak- of the Appalachian Trail to the social, economic, and environmental well-being 1% Net Investment ing to trail representatives that came together from around the globe to share of local communities through initiatives that include sustainable tourism devel- Income < 1% Land Trust 7% Development experience and to build a global network of trail partners. opment, education, citizen science, physical fitness, resource conservation, and < 1% 10% Other Back home, the ATC continued to support Trail crew programs that land-use planning. By the end of 2011, 24 communities across the 14 A.T. states General & tackle the most challenging Trail management projects in partnership with had been designated or had applied to the program. 9% Administrative longstanding Trail club volunteers. In 2011, we hosted more than 400 crew Many of our recently designated communities support the Trail to Every volunteers who helped us maintain Trail sections across the southern and Classroom program, a professional development program cooperatively man- 12% Sales Mid-Atlantic Trail regions. Most notably, we continue to rehabilitate the aged by the National Park Service and the ATC for K-12 teachers, which Membership 52% 9% Services 45% Trail at Bear Mountain with local club partner New York-New Jersey Trail provides educators with the tools and training for place-based education and Conference, to build out the final location of the Trail sections near the New service-learning on the A.T. We supported training for another 45 teachers Conservation Contractual River in Virginia, and to construct new Trail sections in Tennessee. A sig- in 2011, the sixth year of this program, offering workshops and a week-long Services nificant challenge this past year was addressing Trail damage in the after- training session. We also developed the first annual Family Hiking Day in math of Hurricane Irene. This torrential storm washed out bridges and Trail conjunction with National Public Lands Day on September 24, 2011. Informa- 15% sections throughout Vermont. Staff and volunteers responded in partnership tion about this program was presented on the ATC’s Web site including with local club partner, the Green Mountain Club, to survey the damage suggested hikes, volunteer-led hikes, Trail-related activities, and safety tips. 20% Memberships and assist with repairs. Overall in 2011, 5,427 volunteers participated in The 38th Biennial Membership Conference at Emory & Henry College in our Trail programs, donating more than 230,575 hours. southwest Virginia was a huge success. Hosted by the seven A.T. maintain- Publications & Marketing Public Support 15% Seasonal ridgerunners hired and administered by the ATC continue to ing clubs of central and southwest Virginia, the conference celebrated the provide much needed information and guidance to visitors about the A.T. A.T. Planned around the ATC’s membership meeting, the conference pro- Expenses 2011 2010 and its intended primitive experience, its location, regulations, and tradi- vided an opportunity for A.T. enthusiasts to take a Trail related workshop, Revenues 2011 2010 Conservation 4,118,002 2,537,929 tions. Ridgerunners work to encourage and to elicit the support of those hike on the A.T., or explore other attractions in southwest Virginia. During who live nearby, but who may not understand or use the Trail regularly. this meeting, the membership elected its new Board of Directors. Public Support 1,230,678 1,342,372 Land Trust 34,792 114,696 We continued to work on high priority land acquisition projects and Lastly, throughout the year, as in the past, the ATC has benefited from In-Kind Contributions 190,225 101,618 Membership Services 750,083 508,482 were extremely pleased to celebrate the addition of the White Rocks tracts the generous support of our members as well as our corporate and foundation Memberships 1,173,233 1,066,234 Public Information 77,594 61,488 (840 acres of forested land) to the Appalachian National Scenic Trail cor- partners. To all of them, and to all the thousands of volunteers who support Contractual Services 3,630,007 2,084,950 Education and Outreach 117,171 103,137 ridor in Pennsylvania. The ATC conservation staff had another successful the Trail, we express our deepest gratitude. Sales 975,515 964,390 Publications and Marketing 1,569,626 1,282,273 year, meeting with congressional representatives from the 14 Trail states in Net Investment Income 7,165 6,514 Development 561,918 547,419 Washington, D.C. as part of the annual Hike the Hill advocacy week, spon- J. Robert Almand ❘ Chair sored by the American Hiking Society and co-sponsored by the Partnership Mark J. Wenger ❘ Executive Director/CEO Other 780,344 532,873 General and Administrative 734,063 678,990 Total Revenues 7,987,167 6,098,951 Total Expenses 7,963,249 5,834,414 For the complete 2011 Annual Report visit: appalachiantrail.org/annualreport Increase in Net Assets of General Fund 23,918 264,537

08 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 09 adventures ily e A fam ng th .T. alo 10

Len Foote Hike Inn & 1 Amicalola Falls State Park, Georgia hike The five miles to the inn from the parking lot at the park to the top of the falls is a fairly gentle climb, rising about 700 feet over the entire hike. From the trailhead, the lime-green blazed trail to the Hike Inn joins briefly with the blue-blazed Approach Trail Sometimes you have to unplug to Springer. The inn itself is only four-and-a-half miles to get plugged back into family, and especially into the great from the Springer Mountain summit. while you’re there outdoors. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) will host its At 729 feet, Amicalola Falls is the tallest cascade in the southeastern U.S. second annual Family Hiking Day in conjunction with National Stay overnight in the park lodge, at a campsite, or Public Lands Day on September 29. We’ve picked ten great places in a cabin. Enjoy educational programs in the park, stop by the Visitor Center for A.T. info, and visit the to go for a hike along the Trail and suggested some other Trail-side officially designated Trail community of nearby adventures to whet your family hiking appetite. So grab your hiking Dahlonega, Georgia. * boots, Trail maps, and camera and load up the car for a memorable weekend with your family.

By Julie Judkins and Angie Sheldon From left: Enjoy a stay at the Len Foote Hike Inn; Trek to the top of Amicalola Falls. Photos by Georgia A.T. Club and Van Hill.

10 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 11 Take a hike along the LUSH, GRASSY bald of Max Patch. photo by Van Hill.

Hot Springs, viewing, and visitors’ centers, families might also community of Abingdon; stop by the Grayson 2 North Carolina want to plan a stay at Le Conte Lodge, on top of Highlands State Park Visitor’s Center; look for hike Lovers Leap is a somewhat steep two-and Mount Le Conte, which is accessible only by trail wildflowers on Whitetop Mountain; and stay at one -a-half-mile loop hike with overlooks of the French (five miles minimum hiking one way). Check out of the many cozy B&B’s. Broad River and the town of Hot Springs. Alterna- list of events throughout the summer and fall of * tively, Max Patch offers a 1.6-mile hike on the the park’s Junior Ranger guided programs and grassy bald with panoramic views, including Mount special events, or visit the Great Smoky Mountains 5 Giles County, Virginia Mitchell and the Smokies. Institute at Tremont or the Smoky Mountain Field hike A brief, half-mile trek to Wind Rock while you’re there Float down the School for family camps, environmental education, Overlook — just a few miles drive past Mountain French Broad River, soak in the Hot Springs, and stay and naturalist programs. Lake Hotel — offers sweeping views of mountains at a B&B, campground, cabin, or campsite. in the distance. Or hike along Pearis Mountain, * starting at Sugar Run Gap near Woods Hole Clockwise from top: Take a break at Thomas 4 Hostel and enjoy the view of Sugar Run Mountain Damascus, Virginia Knob Shelter; Keep an eye out for Great Smoky Mountains hike Grayson Highlands State Park — starting in the distance and the town of Pearisburg below 3 National Park, North at Massie Gap head up to the A.T. via the Rhodo- before returning. wild ponies in Grayson Highlands; Carolina and Tennessee dendron Trail, then head north for 2.3 miles along while you’re there Paddle the New Enjoy the view in Giles County. hike For the more adventurous family, a trek beautiful Wilburn Ridge to Wise Shelter. Remember River; visit or stay at Mountain Lake Conservancy Photos (in order) by Anne Maio, to Charlies Bunion, from Newfound Gap, is ap- to keep an eye out for wild ponies along the way. and Hotel, the Inn at Riverbend, or Wood’s Hole proximately eight miles. And, at 6,625 feet, Cling- Or take a four-mile loop hike on Appalachian and Hostel; or enjoy a meal at the Bank Food and Drink, Kaley Bartosik, and Angie Walker. mans Dome is the highest point along the entire Iron Mountain trails beginning in downtown Damas- the Palisades, or the New River Grill. A.T., with 360 degree views. From the parking lot cus. Mount Rogers National Recreation Area also to the top of the dome is a one-mile roundtrip. There offers a hike from Elk Garden to Thomas Knob you’ll find an information center and a bookstore Shelter. If you still have some energy on the way Harpers Ferry, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps. back take the spur trail up to Mount Rogers, the 6 West Virginia while you’re there Besides hiking, highest point in the Commonwealth of Virginia. hike Take a five-and-a-half mile walk along camping, fishing, biking, picnicking, historical while you’re there Bike on the Virginia the A.T. and C&O Canal, passing John Brown’s sites, horseback riding, waterfalls, wildlife Creeper Trail from Whitetop to the designated Trail Fort and over the Potomac River on the Goodloe

12 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 E. Byron Memorial Footbridge. For a more stren- 8 Boiling Springs, Norwich, Vermont & uous hike, take the steep, two-mile round trip Pennsylvania 10 Hanover, New Hampshire trek to Weverton Cliffs. hike The White Rocks Trail travels 1.3 miles to hike The Appalachian Trail guides you right while you’re there Stop by the ATC’s connect with the A.T. just 300 yards south of Center through these two A.T. Communities, starting in a Visitors Center — located about a quarter mile Point Knob. The White Rocks Antietam quartz- wooded section of Norwich, Vermont and coming off the A.T. in historic Harpers Ferry — where you ite outcrops provide a commanding view of the of out on Elm Street, leading down to Main Street. can learn more about the Trail, view hiker photo the South Mountain landscape to the southeast. From there the A.T. leads to the Ledyard Bridge and albums, and get your official Appalachian Na- while you’re there Go fishing at Children’s crosses over the Connecticut River into Hanover, tional Scenic Trail passport stamp. Harpers Ferry Lake, take a tubing trip on Yellow Breeches Creek, New Hampshire. National Historical Park — at the confluence of or take a drive to the A.T. Museum, and cool off while you’re there Visit one of the best the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers — is steeped with ice cream in Pine Grove Furnace State Park. science museums in the country, the Montshire in Civil War and African American history. * Museum — an interactive world of science, nature, * and technology, and a kid’s paradise. Enjoy 9 White Mountains, storytelling and music on Saturdays at the Norwich Bear Mountain, New Hampshire Farmers Market, take a dip at Storrs Pond Recreation 7 hike New York Take a hike to a hut. The Appalachian Area, or kayak on the Connecticut River. This year marks the 75th anniversary of the Mountain Club’s hut system offers multiple ad- * completion of the A.T. The first section of the A.T. ventures for families of all types — from an hour’s to be completed back in 1922 to 1923 was between hike to a lake or waterfall for the younger ones, Arden and the Hudson River in New York, includ- to a more challenging hike for your teen. Lone- ing Bear Mountain. some Lake Hut, at Cannon Mountain, provides hike The 1.3-mile Bear Mountain Summit Loop views of the Franconia Range across a clear — in Harriman and Bear Mountain State Park — glacial tarn; it is the westernmost hut on the A.T. follows a newly-built section of the A.T. (the largest and is just an hour’s hike from the road. Or stay Trail relocation project that has ever been under- at Zealand Falls Hut, which provides outstanding taken) and includes spectacular views of the Hudson views of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, and River, the hills of the West Point Military Reservation, maybe even a glimpse of a moose. Hike the A.T. in Harpers Ferry (top left) and cross and Brooks Lake. while you’re there Visit the town of while you’re there Walk across the Franconia Notch, Franconia Notch State Park, over the Potomac River on the Goodloe E. Byron Hudson River and watch the sailboats; visit Perkins or begin or end your hike at the Highland Center Memorial Footbridge (this page); Take in Memorial Tower, or the Bear Mountain Zoo. Lodge at Crawford Notch. spectacular views of the Hudson River at Bear Denotes officially Goodloe E. Byron Memorial Footbridge and Bear Mountain photos by Van Hill; Father and son in Mountain (top right); Visit the interactive designated* A.T. Communities. Harpers Ferry photo by Laurie Potteiger; Montshire Museum photo by Jon Gilbert Fox. Montshire Museum in Norwich (bottom right). For more information on these and other A.T. hikes visit: appalachiantrail.org/hiking/find-a-hike

14 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 15

by spearheading a very successful TTEC program. The 14 Blazes award went to Union County Middle School art teacher Sylvia Garner, who managed to incorporate interviews, 3-D media, origami, printmaking, oil pastels, local authors, an A.T. rock sculpture, and, of course, the bat cave. She made sure the A.T. was a ❘ ❘ part of the conversation in her classroom every day. Both of her sons are thru-hiking the A.T. this year. trailhead For students, the high point of the year (both figuratively and literally) came a few weeks later when northern end Shenandoah National Park by Ken Miller they all got a chance to hike part of the A.T. Nearly four hundred sixth and seventh grade students visited Springer Mountain, where Georgia A.T. Club members Tony Rogers and Tom Ottinger spoke to them about Benton MacKaye and the Springer plaque. About 30 eighth graders also hiked from Springer down to the Len Foote Hike Inn for the night and did a Trail maintenance project the next day. And the entire eighth grade (more than 150 students) hiked to the top of Blood Mountain the following week. Prior to this year, despite living within a few miles of the Trail, the majority of students at Union County Middle School had never even heard of it. Even fewer had ever set foot on it. Now, thanks to the work of the school faculty and administration, and the cooperative efforts of the Georgia Appalachian Trail Club, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, and the Blue Ridge District of the Chattahoochee-Oconee Na- tional Forest, these students have experienced firsthand the beauty of the natural world along the Appa- lachian Trail. And they recognize the importance of preserving it for future generations. Georgia middle school students sign the register at the Blood Mountain Shelter during their A.T. hike. A.T. Museum A Celebration of Trail Education Leaders Honored by julie judkins and tom ottinger by the State

Union County Middle School in Blairsville, Georgia has just of Pennsylvania completed a year of unprecedented emphasis on the Appalachian Trail. While participating as a committee member to bring Blairsville and Union County on board as a designated Appalachian Trail Community, Appalachian Trail Museum founder and president Larry principal Donnie Kelley learned about the Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s (ATC) Trail to Every Classroom Luxenberg, along with out-going Appalachian Trail Museum manager Margy Schmidt, (TTEC) program. He then brought that to his own school by creating a program he called “14 Blazes,” which have been recognized by the Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural allowed teachers to earn blazes by incorporating the A.T. into their lessons. After earning 14 blazes (one Resources (DCNR) for their roles in establishing the museum’s strong partnership with for each A.T. state), teachers qualified to enter into a school-wide competition to win $2,181 (one dollar Pine Grove Furnace State Park, the 2011 Pennsylvania State Park of the Year. The mu- for every mile of the A.T.) worth of teaching supplies and professional development. seum is located in a 200-year-old, restored grist mill in historic Pine Grove Furnace State For teachers, the culmination of the activity took place at a dinner on Saturday, April 28. That day the Park and at the midway point of the Appalachian Trail. school celebrated a year of TTEC lessons, projects, posters, puzzles, and poems — more than 350 of them Deb Bowman, with the recently renovated Ironmasters Mansion conference center, in fact. Walking into the fellowship hall where the event took place, you immediately grasped the amount education center, and hostel also was recognized by DCNR Secretary Richard Allan. The of work and dedication teachers had contributed to inspire their students who created, researched, and Ironmasters Mansion is also located at Pine Grove Furnace State Park. “Being recognized assembled such astounding productions. for our partnership with Pine Grove Furnace State Park is an honor for all who have While the local band Cornbread Ted and the Butter Beans played upbeat tunes, teachers and guests dedicated their time and resources to making the Appalachian Trail Museum a reality,” Union County Middle School students browsed through beautiful prints on student-constructed walls, oil pastels, books that students had said Luxenberg. “Being in Pine Grove Furnace State Park is a benefit for us and the park, and their teacher, Sylvia Garner, touch prepared on A.T.-related topics, sculptures, bowls, and best of all, a bat cave — complete with a black and we thank park manager Jason Zimmerman and Pennsylvania State Bureau of Parks the first (or last) blaze at Springer light so you could see enough to sign the register. And just to make sure the A.T. experience and environ- Director John Norbeck for their continued support of the museum.” Now open for its third successful Mountain; A student gazes at ment were fully accounted for, a beautifully handmade tree with fall leaves was also at the entryway of The Appalachian Trail Museum opened for its third season this past March. The 2012 season, the Appalachian Trail Museum Brasstown Bald from the summit the cave. Guests were also treated to a 14-minute student-led video, which showcased the different museum hours will be noon to 4 p.m. on weekends from March 31 to Memorial Day; (above) has welcomed more than of Blood Mountain. aspects of the school’s participation in the A.T. From mathematics to art, on the Trail and in the school, daily from noon to 4 p.m. Memorial Day through Labor Day, and noon to 4 p.m. weekends 20,000 visitors — from all over students showed their excitement and teachers shared their orchestration in a symphony of a Trail to from Labor Day to Sunday, November 4. During its first two seasons, the museum wel- the U.S. and many other countries Every Classroom activities. comed some 20,000 visitors from all but a few states and many countries. Luxenberg — in the past two years. The ATC then honored principal Donnie Kelley with the Regional Partnership Committee’s Partner of said volunteers are being sought for all aspects of museum operations from greeters and the Year award — given to an individual who has shown exceptional leadership and made significant docents to maintenance and landscaping crews to program and hike leaders. contributions to the Trail. Donnie earned it with his extraordinary commitment in helping Blairsville-Union County become designated as an A.T. Community, by serving as the community’s A.T. Ambassador, and For more information visit: www.atmuseum.org or contact [email protected].

16 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 17 Clockwise from top left: President Roosevelt visits a Civilian Conservation Corps camp in Shenandoah National Park; Then Vice President Nixon with his wife, Pat, in 1959, at the Roan Mountain Rhododendron Festival - photo by Hugh Morton, North Carolina Collection, University of North Carolina Library at Chapel Hill; President and Mrs. Hoover at Camp Hoover.

One Shared history

An American presidential legacy of restoration and renewal along the Appalachian Trail. By Leanna Joyner

18 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 The experience along the A.T. is one we share with our nation’s forefathers. Their presence and impressions of the Appalachian range shaped our nation and our parks.

Last year a documentary premiered in Germany extolling the Crampton Gap throughout the day, with the earliest fighting beauty, wonder, and amazement of the Appalachian Trail, beginning at 9 a.m. at Fox Gap and not ending until nightfall. enticing people to cross the Atlantic to experience the Trail. Two future U.S. Presidents were at Fox Gap for the Battle of This appeal echoes a similar proclamation made more than South Mountain — Colonel Rutherford B. Hayes and Sergeant 200 years ago by Thomas Jefferson — that the scene found William McKinley were elected the 19th and 25th Presidents, along the present day Appalachian Trail “is worth the voyage respectively in 1877 and 1897. across the Atlantic.” From a vantage point in Harpers Ferry, During the battle at Fox Gap, Colonel Hayes was shot in his West Virginia, Jefferson described the marriage of the Po- left arm. This was Hayes’ second appearance in Civil War his- tomac and Shenandoah rivers as they rushed through the Blue tory along the Appalachian Trail. He and members of his 23rd Ridge Mountains as “the most stupendous scene in nature.” Ohio regiment had captured and held Pearisburg, Virginia for Before the Appalachian Trail was a trail, it was the site of rug- several days in May of 1862. In May of 1864, under orders from ged mountains, the heartland of the American frontier, and Brigadier General George Crook, Hayes’ legacy along the A.T. a battleground. It was the simple majesty of the Appalachians continued, since he was likely the wagon master who oversaw that captivated Jefferson in 1783, when the mountains served the jettison of supplies, giving Minie Ball Hill its name, near as an emerging territory to be explored and understood. Wind Rock. Following the Battle of Cloyd Mountain and the It is that terrain that young George Washington traveled destruction of the railroad bridge over the New River at Cen- regularly as a surveyor for Lord Fairfax, learning the land and tral Depot, the Union charted a rugged mountain route to drawing maps. With this knowledge, Washington served as a West Virginia over Salt Pond Mountain. The journey was ex- guide and Lieutenant Colonel to General Edward Braddock in ceptionally difficult because of the heavy rains, and steep, the British battle with the allied French and Indians; in 1755 muddy roads. Mud pulled on the wheels of the wagon trains, Braddock and Washington crossed South Mountain in Mary- the boots of men, and the hooves of horses; supplies had to be land through Turners Gap in what became the National Road. dumped to make travel easier. It rained so much that their Washington and others advocated for the development of a spirits were soaked as well; Hayes described the “fierce rain- National Road, a smooth path to unite the burgeoning coun- storm” and the “disagreeable rainy day” that led to this entry try, its resources, and its people. According to Leonard Adkins’ in his journal: “My brigade had charge of the [wagon] train. I The Appalachian Trail: A Visitor’s Companion, the National Road acted as wagon-master; a long train to keep up. Rode all day through Turners Gap has carried Presidents Abraham Lincoln, in mud and rain back and forth … Got to camp — no tents Andrew Jackson, William Henry Harrison, James Polk, Zach- — at midnight. Mud; slept on wet ground without blankets. ary Taylor, and Martin Van Buren. A horrible day, one of the worst of all my experience.” Similarly to advocating for the National Road, as president Following the Civil War, James Garfield instigated turning of the Potomac Company, Washington defined a vision for the the federal armory buildings in Harpers Ferry over to Storer establishment of the C&O Canal to facilitate the transfer of College founders for use in educating former slaves — the col- goods along the Potomac River to the nation’s interior. Ex- lege became one of the nation’s first institutions of higher plorer, planner, and accomplished Revolutionary War general, learning open to African Americans — and in June 1944 Frank- Washington was unanimously elected to serve as the United lin D. Roosevelt signed legislation to create the Harpers Ferry States’ first President in 1789. Because of his familiarity with National Monument. It transitioned to a national historical the area through his thorough explorations and military ex- park in 1963. Through the 1920s, most national parks had been perience, President Washington recommended Harpers Ferry established west of the Mississippi, but in 1926 President Calvin as the site for the arsenal and armory, positioning the town’s Coolidge signed the bill establishing the Great Smoky Moun- role in history, as an objective of John Brown’s 1959 raid and as a keystone position in the “War Between the States.” Harpers Ferry changed hands seven times during the Clockwise from top left: Civilian Conservation Corps members take a break Civil War, including the notable Confederate capture of 12,500 during Trail work in Shenandoah National Park; President Hoover fishing Union troops and supplies by Stonewall Jackson leading up at Camp Hoover; President Franklin D. Roosevelt dedicates the Smokies to the Battle of Antietam. Concurrent with Jackson’s orders in 1940 at Newfound Gap along the A.T. – photo courtesy the Thompson to secure Harpers Ferry, Robert E. Lee’s Confederates met Photograph Collection, McClung Historical Collection. All Hoover, CCC, and advancing Union soldiers at the crest of South Mountain on FDR in Shenandoah National Park (previous page) photos are courtesy of September 14, 1862. They fought in Turner Gap, Fox Gap, and Shenandoah National Park.

20 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 21 Corporate partnerships play a critical role in supporting our work and conserving the pristine tains National Park and Shenandoah National Park. Though it Mount Minsi outside of Delaware Water Gap, which once would be 14 years and 9 years, respectively, until they were hosted the old hotel. nature of the 250,000 acres of trail lands in our care. Relationships created through our complete and President Franklin Roosevelt dedicated them. During his Vice Presidency in 1959, Richard Nixon and his corporate partnership program permit us to move forward with Benton MacKaye’s vision for President Roosevelt’s New Deal initiative to put young men wife Pat attended the Roan Mountain Rhododendron Festi- to work as the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) helped these val. His visit was arranged by the Roan Mountain Citizens the A.T. as a place for renewal and an opportunity to promote wilderness. parks gain completion. Roosevelt visited the CCC camp along Club and boosted attendance at that year’s event from 1,000 Skyline Drive in 1933, making his visit to the Appalachian Trail to 5,000. President Grover Cleveland enjoyed fishing at Ty- official, even as it was relocated from its original location along ringham Cobble near the Appalachian Trail’s path in Mas- Thanks to our 2012 Gala Partners the spine of the Blue Ridge to accommodate the creation of sachusetts, and Calvin Coolidge was born and grew up in the Skyline Drive, allowing greater access to the majestic vistas shadows of Mount Killington in Plymouth Notch, Vermont. CONGRESSIONAL PARTNER from the peaks of Shenandoah National Park. It may have been Coolidge regularly returned to his home in Vermont to seek during this same visit to the forthcoming park that FDR vis- renewal, and, while visiting during his term as Vice Presi- ited Camp Rapidan, established by President Herbert Hoover dent, was awakened by his father in the middle of the night and his wife Lou Henry in 1929. They purchased 164-acres and to learn that President Warren Harding had died suddenly paid for the materials to build a camp that is just over a mile in San Francisco. Coolidge’s father, a notary public, swore from the present day Appalachian Trail the Vice President into the office of the at Milan Gap. They used “Camp Hoover” presidency under the waning half moon for Presidential business as well as relax- on August 3, 1923. ation; he met with his cabinet, congress- The 30th President was nicknamed men, senators, and hosted the British Silent Cal for his brevity, but he was at no Prime Minister. Hoover also enjoyed loss of words to describe his affection for trout fishing in Hemlock Run, which he his home state and its natural beauty. “I said put him back in touch with “the could not look upon the peaks of Ascut- simpler life of the frontier from which ney, Killington, Mansfield, and Equinox CAPITOL PARTNER every American springs.” without being moved in a way that no At the end of his Presidency, Hoover other scene could move me … I love Ver- donated Camp Rapidan to the federal mont because of her hills and valleys, her government for use by other Presidents scenery, and invigorating climate, but as a retreat, or as a future park. Rather most of all because of her indomitable than use Camp Hoover, FDR established people.” After retiring from his term as his presidential retreat, more easily President, he returned to Plymouth Notch navigated in his wheelchair, near Thur- where, from East Mountain, he could look mont, Maryland. President Roosevelt’s upon Killington for the rest of his days. TRAIL PARTNER Shangri-la, later named Camp David by The rapture of nature captured the President Eisenhower, is about three imagination of more than Coolidge, miles, as the crow flies, from the Appa- Hoover, FDR, and Jefferson; and it com- lachian Trail’s traverse of South Moun- President Clinton and Vice President Gore pelled them and others, such as Lyndon tain in Maryland — situated in Catoctin place a capstone in a retaining wall at Jef- B. Johnson, Jimmy Carter, and Bill Clin- Mountain National Park. Sitting Presi- ferson Rock, along the A.T. ton to advocate for its conservation. SUSAN GAGE C A T E R E R S dents Eisenhower, Carter, Reagan, and President Johnson signed into law the George W. Bush visited regularly, conducting business as well legislation establishing the National Trails System, ensuring as enjoying the renewal of the mountains. Getaways like the A.T.’s existence and protection as a unit of the National Park Camp David and Camp Hoover revitalized the spirit of our Service in October of 1968; and President Carter extended the Presidents, just as time on the Appalachian Trail rejuvenates protections granted to the Trail when he signed the A.T. Amend- To see a full list of partners or learn many of the American populace who hike it. ments to the National Trails System Act in March of 1978. more about ATC Corporate Partnership

Beyond formally established presidential retreats, Presi- Bill Clinton was the first President to visit and briefly work visit appalachiantrail.org/partners dents have had close encounters with the Appalachian Trail; on the Appalachian Trail. In recognition of the effort of the Presidents Ulysses S. Grant and Dwight Eisenhower at- thousands of volunteers who work to protect this National tended West Point just a few miles from Bear Mountain in Park, he and Vice President Al Gore worked to place a cap- New York. And, in his term as the 26th President, Theodore stone in a retaining wall at Jefferson Rock in Harpers Ferry Roosevelt stayed at the Water Gap House in August of 1906. during an Earth Day celebration in 1998. The resort, which was later ravaged by fire and never restored, It is in all these ways, at sites along the course of this had large balconies that overlooked Mount Tammany and long, skinny Trail, that hikers are connected with the lead- much of New Jersey. The Appalachian Trail now traverses ers of our nation, in one shared history. M arshall by S tacey photo

22 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 23 caption text

Mountain

TMext andigration photos courtesy of Southern Appalachian Raptor Research

hile camping near the A.T., shaded by high-altitude stands of spruce-fir in the grams — about the size of an American robin. This owl is currently listed as a Great Smoky Mountains National Park, or high on Roan Mountain, one may threatened species in Tennessee, defined as both extremely rare and critically hear a curious sound punctuating the night air from early March through late imperiled and is similarly listed as threatened in North Carolina — this includes June. It could be described as an incessant “tooting” highlighted occasionally one of the breeding areas of this tiny owl, Big Bald Mountain. with plaintive wailing. Others might recall a large truck backing up at a construc- tion site, or even the long-lost sound of a saw blade being sharpened or “whetted,” Clockwise from left: Volunteer Jesse Morris carefully picks a Canada warbler — one of the neotropical migrants Wthe traditional derivation of this uncommon bird with a most unusual name. that breeds at high altitudes along the A.T. — out of a mist net – photo by Nicolas Morris; A brown thrasher The northern saw-whet owl, Aegolius acadicus, is eastern North America’s small- is released after banding and measuring; A saw-whet owl in his nesting box. Inset from top: Cape May warbler, est owl, standing only six-to eight inches high and weighing a mere 75 to 100 sharp-shinned hawk, Coopers hawk – photos by James Petranka.

july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 25 Big Bald Mountain, rising to 5, 516 feet, and nearby surrounding habitat is predominantly high-alti- tude northern hardwood forest type. The presence of the saw- whet owl on Big Bald Mountain was documented in 1995, and volunteers from Southern Appalachian Raptor Research (SARR) have conducted monitoring efforts each autumn from 2005 through 2011 to determine if these owls were migrating through the Big Bald Mountain habitat. This migration monitoring data prompted the U.S. Forest Service and SARR to enhance the owls’ nesting opportunities by placing nest boxes in the Big Bald Mountain habitat. Southern Appalachian Raptor Research is a non-profit, vol- unteer group passionate about birds of all types and their habitats. SARR volunteers have been operating autumn song- bird migration monitoring along the Appalachian Trail at Big Save the Bald Mountain for the past 10 years, expanding on the early work of Dr. George and Cleo May- Volunteer, Emily Volk, holds a Watch commenced in 2004, documenting field, who started songbirds studies there in two-week-old chestnut-sided the passage of 15 different species of raptors Dat e the late 1970s. SARR now operates three MAPS warbler after banding the fledgling annually. In the past eight autumns, Big (Monitoring Avian Productivity and Survivor- during SARR’s MAPS program in Bald Hawk Watch has counted a total of Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s ship — a nationwide program) stations, in 2011; Local elementary school 24,813 birds of prey, with an average sea- cooperation with the Institute for Bird Popula- students learn about bird ecology sonal total of 3,102 migrating raptors. 2013 Biennial Conference tions, collecting data to monitor the health of at Vacation Bird School. From early spring until late autumn, the breeding bird communities at Big Bald and SARR volunteers help educate the public other habitats during the summer months. SARR volunteers about the migration and ecology of songbirds and raptors in the also expanded migration monitoring at Big Bald Mountain to southern Appalachians. Hundreds of Appalachian Trail hikers July 19-26, 2013 include raptor trapping, hawk watch, and public education ef- passing through the Big Bald Banding Station have enjoyed the forts at Big Bald Banding Station with funding assistance from opportunity to release songbirds or look a bird of prey in the the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, the Tennessee Ornitho- eye. High school biology students from area schools, teachers Cullowhee, logical Society, the Land Trust for the Little Tennessee, the U.S. from the North Carolina Center for the Advancement of Teach- Forest Service, North Carolina and Tennessee Wildlife pro- ing, and local bird clubs have also visited Big Bald for hands-on North Carolina grams, and many private donors. experiences with birds. Visits by Madison County and Bun- Big Bald Banding Station (BBBS) is the bird migration combe County, North Carolina elementary school students have monitoring and research program — operated by volunteers been an educational highlight in recent years. This July, SARR from SARR — in the southern Appalachian mountains of is conducting a week-long Vacation Bird School, designed to North Carolina and Tennessee during the months of Septem- immerse late elementary school students into the world of ber and October, and is one of very few banding stations in southern Appalachian bird ecology. Activities include literature the U.S. that monitors and bands songbirds, raptors, and readings, creative writing, applied arts, nest searching, bird owls. An average of 2,000 passerines are captured, banded. banding, and data collection techniques to help understand the and safely released during each autumn migration at Big Bald. ecology of birds in the southern Appalachian Mountains. A raptor trapping substation lures and bands approximately Big Bald Mountain has been designated as an Important 100 birds of prey of 10 different species. The Big Bald Hawk Bird Area (IBA) by the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency and the National Audubon Society’s Important Bird Area program, and is part of the Southern Blue Ridge IBA, which includes several high altitude sites such as Roan Mountain, Unaka Mountain, and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. This north-south corridor provides migratory, breeding, and wintering habitat for numerous bird species. If you keep your eyes and ears wide open during a trek along this section of the A.T. you might spot any number of magnificent winged Hikes, workshops, excursions, and more wildlife, and, after dusk, you may just hear the very loud call Registration opens April 15, 2013 of the tiny saw-whet owl. Volunteers needed in all areas! For more information on Vacation Bird School, or how to participate in on-going monitoring visit Southern Appalachian Raptor Research at: Contact Peter Berntsen: [email protected] www.bigbaldbanding.org. For more information visit: appalachiantrail.org/2013biennial

26 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 Photo courtesyjuly — august Western 2012 C arolina❘ a.t. jour Universityneys ❘ 27 boggednot down By Karen Lutz When faced with seemingly insurmountable challenges, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) and its Trail club volun- teers somehow just seem to put a big smile on their faces and demonstrate remarkable resilience and “can do!” attitudes. Clockwise from top left: Such was the case with solving the mucky problem of crossing New York-New Jersey Trail Conference, ATC, and A.T. Park the Great Swamp in Pawling, New York. Numerous and frequent Office representatives plan the new bridge over the Swamp storm events over the past decade altered the Hiller Brook River; New York-New Jersey Trail Conference and ATC Mid- stream course and eliminated any possibility for an at-grade Atlantic Trail Crew volunteers treadway or traditional puncheon construction options. The with the final pier driven for the boardwalk; The Trail crew situation was exacerbated by a family of beavers whose enthu- enjoys a peaceful commute to work – by Mira Sari; A siasm for construction in the wetland continues to rival our swamp-eye view – by Chris Everett; A pre-boardwalk, own volunteers. >> temporary solution; The completed boardwalk – photos by James Haggett. july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 29 Early on, in a heroic attempt to provide More than 75 volunteers Ultimate passage for hikers across the swamp, septuagenarian Jane Geisler and fellow contributed in excess of 5,000 hours volunteer sexagenarian Ollie Simpson of labor to drive the piers, frame Beautifully Illustrated, Appalachian lugged in scores of cinder blocks and and deck the boardwalk, and topped them with dozens of pallets and construct the bridge. Expertly Chronicled salvaged planks to make a passable path A Celebration for your Bookshelf Trail Store above what seemed to be constantly ris- those volunteers are affiliated with the what unique feature, it is not the only ing water. What the result lacked is aes- Dutchess/Putnam Appalachian Trail unusual aspect to this Trail section. The Appalachian Trail: Celebrating America’s Hiking thetics was more than made up for by the Management Committee, a part of the Weekend visitors arriving from New Trail, by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy with a sheer audacity of the feat performed by New York-New Jersey Trail Conference, York City can hop off a Metro North foreword by Bill Bryson, is half a survey of the history open 24-7 these two incredible and dedicated wom- with volunteers Frank Dogil, Bob Haas, train at the Appalachian Trail train stop en. But their efforts were always deemed and Steve Klauck contributing much of and enjoy the boardwalk within a matter of the Trail since conception — backed by archival to be a temporary fix until a more perma- the design, engineering, and craftsman- of a few feet. Metro North also installed photographs, documents, and maps — and half a nent solution could be designed, funded, ship that went into the project. Special a pedestrian friendly railroad track collection of stunning images from along the entire and built. The A.T. management partners groups such as students from the nearby crossing, but visitors should take great chose an option with which they were Trinity-Pawling School helped with the caution when crossing the tracks as the A.T. This 10-inch-square hardcover edition also comes familiar — an elevated boardwalk sup- effort and the IBM Corporation sent a speeding commuter trains arrive with with a 9 x 48-inch National Park Service “strip map” ported by helical piers. This technique has team of 13 volunteers, in celebration of little warning. poster of the Trail. been successfully used for expansive A.T. IBM’s 100th anniversary, to help remove Most A.T. visitors are well aware that wetland crossings at the Pochuck in Ver- the old deteriorated puncheon. The TA C’s the Trail typically follows the height of non, New Jersey, Thundering Falls near Mid-Atlantic Trail Crew spent ten weeks land across the ridge tops of the Appala- Killington, Vermont, and for shorter working on the bridge and boardwalk chians and that valley crossings are less spans elsewhere along the Trail. with several crew volunteers participat- common. A tenet of A.T. trail design and Under the very capable leadership of ing for nine or ten of those weeks. Crew construction is that the footpath “lie the New York-New Jersey Trail Confer- volunteers came from as far away as Italy lightly on the land.” This presents a di- ence volunteer Jim Haggett, with consid- and Great Britain. lemma for Trail designers who occasion- erable behind the scenes support from While the boardwalk itself is a some- ally have complex crossings across fragile equally capable ATC staffer Bob Sickley, terrain, such as the Swamp River wet- detailed plans were developed, local of- land. Perhaps ironically, many of these ficials were cultivated, environmental crossing in the more urban states occur compliance reviews were completed. in areas that are near population centers, Funds were secured from the National resulting in heavier visitation and poten- Park Service, Carol Paterno (a private tial environmental degradation than donor), and a grant from the ATC’s L.L. might otherwise be the case. Accommo- Bean Grants to Clubs program. Finally, dating lots of visitors, fragile habitat, and volunteers were recruited and trained. a desire to reach a simple aesthetic that After decades of discussions, including is subordinate to, and does not over- the now absurd consideration of re-chan- whelm, the landscape is a challenge. neling Hiller Brook, the partners were Achieving those objectives requires a bit ready for the final fix. of science with a strong measure of art. The construction of the 1,600-foot All of the partners involved with the This 332-page ATC book, boardwalk and replacement of a 34-foot Swamp River boardwalk and bridge are copublished with Rizzoli bridge (which was originally built in 1984) pleased with their efforts; about the of- International, documents took approximately two-and-a-half years ficial opening of the boardwalk — com- the history, beauty, and to complete. More than 75 volunteers plete with a ribbon cutting ceremony, significance of the making contributed in excess of 5,000 hours of which occurred this recent July 1. They labor to drive the piers, frame and deck invite you to take a hike on the A.T. in and enhancement of the boardwalk, and construct the bridge. Pawling and enjoy this beautiful new America’s most-storied trail, During that period, local volunteers con- addition to the Appalachian National the trail in our care. ducted 99 separate work trips. Most of Scenic Trail.

From top: Weekend visitors arriving from New York City can hop off a Metro North train at Karen Lutz is the director of the ATC’s Mid-Atlantic Regional office. Available beginning September 25 at $50 retail ($45 for ATC members). Preorders received by the Trail’s 75th the Appalachian Trail train stop and enjoy the boardwalk within a matter of a few feet; The anniversary on August 14 will earn a 10% discount. To order now, visit: atctrailstore.org or call (toll free) ATC crew drives a helical “pier.” 1-888-287-8673. Item #567

30 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 A Sense of Peace Michael Pyle is drawn naturally to the A.T., where he has traversed the more than 300 miles that run through Pennsylvania and New Jersey. “It came natu- ral for me to combine photography and my appreciation for the Trail. I thrive on the challenge of capturing this feeling of serenity through my photogra- phy,” says Michael. “My goal is for my images to convey a sense of peace to my viewer.” He recalls hiking to Bear Mountain overlook at the age of six with his father. “When we reached the summit, the vista was breathtaking,” he explains. “For the first time in my young life, I was home. Now, whenever I feel fatigued or plagued by the trials of everyday life, I invariably find myself traversing the now familiar paths of the A.T., renewed in both body and spirit.”

www.tryonphoto.com

Susquehanna River from Pinnacle Overlook

32 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 33 Saddleback Mountain, Maine Mount Minsi, Pennsylvania

34 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ may — june 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 35 Pulpit Rock at Sunrise,Saddleback Pennsylvania Mountain, Maine

36 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 37 Celebrate the Anniversary of the Completion of the A.T.!

LOCAL CELEBRATIONS

ATC Mid-Atlantic Region – Appalachian Trail Club music, a parade, workshops, MRATC – 75th Anniversary 75th Anniversary Celebration Join us for a unique hiking and activities throughout the A.T. Hike August 1-4, 2012 adventure along the A.T. as weekend! Be sure to join the August 18, 2012 Boiling Springs, Pennsylvania part of the SATC’s celebration A.T. 75th Anniversary Parade Damascus , Virginia Join us for a series of hikes of the 75th anniversary of in Harpers Ferry on August 11! Hosted by Mount Rogers sponsored by the ATC and the completion of the A.T. The parade will begin at 12:30. Appalachian Trail Club the local Trail clubs, including Must be at least 12 years To register your class year, Trail Join us as we take a hike from family oriented hikes, full moon old to participate. For club, or organization, email: Whitetop Mountain to Summit evening hikes, and an education more information visit: [email protected] Cut with hope of magnificent based hike geared toward www.satc-hike.org. by August 1. Staging times will views, then downhill! getting people familiar with be assigned. Individuals are not native plants and animals. The A.T. 75th Weekend Celebration required to register in advance. ATC Mid-Atlantic Regional office August 11-12, 2012 will also be hosting an open ATC Headquarters & Visitor MATC – 75th Anniversary of Completion of the A.T. house on Friday, August 4. Center: 799 Washington Street, “OK,” I said. “How about hiking a section of the Appalachian Harpers Ferry, West Virginia August 18, 2012 Terra Incognita Trail?” That’s when Sharon made me aware of the requirements. Bring a Friend / Family Maine By Thomas Johnson Hosted by the Appalachian They wanted to hear water. It had to be in Maryland. A friend Member Hike Trail Conservancy. Hosted by Maine of mine who had been out with blind people cautioned that I August 2, 2012 Join us as we celebrate the Appalachian Trail Club The call came from Sharon, an old friend and should hold the hike to not more than three- to four miles. So, Dauphin, Pennslyvania 75th Anniversary of the For more information about this the program chair for the National Federation of the Blind as a prequel to what we hoped would be a future A.T. hike, we Hosted by Susquehanna completion of the Trail with event visit www.matc.org. (NFB). Another member of the Board of NFB thought it would settled on a 4.4 mile section of the Seneca Creek Trail in Mont- be a great idea to get members of the Maryland Federation of gomery County, Maryland. That met all the criteria, although the Blind out on a hiking trail, but they couldn’t do it alone. They the distance was a bit longer than had been recommended. And needed a connection to the hiking community. Sharon imme- that’s when I met the instigator. Maurice Peret, who is a trainer diately piped up. She knew a hiker, and she would make a call for NFB (he trains blind people on how to get around in the IAN H T — so she called me. world), was on the 2008 climb of Mount Everest that put a blind AC R Knowing Sharon, I already assumed that these people were man on the summit. He had “only” gone to base camp — at more L A pretty capable, and very determined. It might work. So we than 18,000 feet. When I began hiking with Maurice, I found A I P L started planning. Being a member of the Potomac Appalachian that he was at least as fast as I was. He wanted to do the full 4.4 P

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Trail Club (PATC), I felt sure I could interest our members in miles, anticipating that others might want to go the distance

helping out. But what kind of an experience would it be? They too. Just in case, though, we planned for bail-out points at road

couldn’t see anything, so we would have crossings, at 1.1 and 2.2 miles. Some

to engage their other senses. My first hikers, he felt, might want to stop at thought was to engage Bob Pickett, the This was terra the mid-point. ANNIVERSARY former PATC naturalist. Bob could find incognita, a voyage of The great day dawned, and people things that they could touch, smell, began pouring out of vans — 43 blind hear, and taste. He readily agreed, and exploration. They no people. A vast sea of people with white urged me to contact Karen Molines of longer had to imagine canes surged into the parking lot just the Maryland Native Plant Society off the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (MNPS). Karen, too, jumped right in, what it was like to hike where Seneca Creek joins the Potomac and contacted other members of MNPS. on a forest trail River. We were prepared with 12 sight- To learn more about the 75th Anniversary We soon had a group of sighted hikers ed hikers, but no one had anticipated of the completion of the Appalachian Trail, or to view — now they knew. that could help with the hike. continued on page 40 a complete list of upcoming celebrations, visit: www.appalachiantrail.org/75 38 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 IAN H T AC R L A A I P L

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ANNIVERSARY Terra Incognita continued Share your love for this big of a turn out. Maurice had everything under control. the A.T. with a He organized the crowd into three groups, depending on how far they thought they felt they could hike. We then moved out gift membership in a single group to the Towpath, for Bob Pickett’s talk on the history of the canal and Seneca Creek Aqueduct. Once we got on the trail, the hikers sorted themselves naturally according to hiking speed, and we made sure that there were sighted hikers and naturalists along with each of the informal groups. And that’s when the magic began. Bob spotted spicebush, and had everyone smelling the spicy fragrance. More enjoyment was in store. They encountered sweet cicely, which smells like licorice when crushed in the hand. They tasted wild strawberries (tiny and bland — not at all like the domesticated variety) and smelled honey- suckle. They touched the smooth bark of an ironwood tree and compared it with the rough bark of an oak so big they could not get their arms around it. They discovered bedstraw — a sticky green weed that the pioneers used to bind their bedding straw, and wild grape — a huge trunk of a vine that winds around big trees. A box turtle was discovered slogging through the forest and some, in turn, got to feel the shell. “So hard — I didn’t know their appalachiantrail.org/giftmembership shells were so hard,” was the most common reaction. (We let the little fella go after sev- A.T. in New Jersey, by Paul "Roadtrip" Longenecker. eral hands had touched his shell. He seemed to have weathered it all well.) We had only covered half the hike when it was time for the van pick-up. But it didn’t mat- ter, because we had accomplished everything we had set out to do. Very few of the partici- pants had ever been out on a hiking trail in the forest. (Many, indeed, had ever been off pave- ment.) They were way out of their comfort zone, Show your appreciation and support experiencing everything for the first time. It for the Trail each and every day with was not like being at home, where one knows an Appalachian Trail (A.T.) license where the sock drawer is, and remembers what plate. A portion of all proceeds will shelf one put the milk on in the fridge. This was help manage and protect the A.T. terra incognita, a voyage of exploration. And they were trans- Photo page 38: Adventurous souls divide into groups in the parking lot fixed by the experience. Everything they touched, everywhere before their hike. This page from top: Hikers Sylvia Yasa — an instructor at they went, was entirely new. They no longer had to imagine Blind Industries and Services of Maryland — and Yasmin Reyazuddin with what it was like to hike on a forest trail — now they knew. a box turtle. The group trekked along smoothly — up and down hills, over Once they moved out, they hiked about a mile an hour, blowdowns, and across streams — experiencing new sensations from their hiking up and down hills, climbing over blowdowns and cross- wooded surroundings with every step – photo by Georgia Harris. ing streams. (Try hiking a mile an hour with your eyes closed. Try hiking anywhere with your eyes closed!) And what they all. And now for the next act, which will be a four-day hike learned on the hike was duplicated with the sighted hikers. across Maryland on the Appalachian Trail in July. We don’t We in the sighted community had a new appreciation for what yet know how many blind hikers will be going, but Maurice blind people can do, and how they manage to live in a world will lead, his wife Lou Ann will be there, and PATC members For more information visit that the rest of us take for granted. It was truly magical for will come along for the ride. appalachiantrail.org/PLATES

Stay tuned for part two in the September – October issue.

40 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 41 ❘ trail stories

continue on the Appalachian Trail, or take a side trail my attention was Little Fort Hill. The name dates to see the bridge you just crossed from high above. back to the Revolutionary War and the Trail goes The Gentle After reaching the viewpoint, which is spectacular, right over its shoulder. As you move along you will you can then return to the A.T. Immediately upon find more walls and will eventually find the founda- Art of Wandering reaching the Trail, you will see the remains of what at tions of the Revolutionary War inoculation station. one time would have been a well-built road. After you If you detour off the Trail for a few minutes at the An excerpt text and photos by David Ryan walk a few more miles on the Trail, you will finally reach your first wall. From there it will be like trying to shut off a blasting fire hose with your bare hands to not see one. Walls are everywhere. Wherever there Several years ago I had the is a semblance of a valley or level area, there will be opportunity to hike the Appalachian Trail in its en- walls. I found that I couldn’t keep count. tirety from Georgia to Maine. Since then I have re- The walls are remnants of what once were farms. turned to the Trail several times to take shorter hikes. They provide an amazing wandering opportunity. Like everyone who goes on a long walk, I took many Visualize that instead of standing in the middle of a pictures. Of all the pictures I took, forest, you are standing on cleared land in the middle three stand out the most to me. The of a bunch of farms. And that the walls around you first was of an old apple orchard, now are not in the woods but enclosing a working farm gone wild, in full blossom right on the field or pasture. As you walk around and follow the From top: An old Trail south of the James River in Vir- walls, you might be able to find the remains of the dirt road may have ginia. The second was of a New-Eng- farm. You could find an old foundation, a root cellar, connected farms to land-style stone wall deep in the a collapsed well, the old garden gone wild, or an old community centers woods east of the Hudson River in orchard; anything that would have shown that this many years ago; The New York State. And the third was was where people lived and worked. If you take this mile marker at Old taken from the top of Bear Mountain walk in the fall, you might even be able to pick an Albany Post Road, in Connecticut. That photo shows a apple from the orchard. If you take the walk in the just off the Trail. landscape of dense trees with perhaps summer, you will definitely find plenty of blueberries. twenty percent of it cultivated. And then as you look at the walls, think of all the All three show that before the Trail work that went into building them. After I took this was built, the land was used differ- hike, I bought a book on walls called Sermons in Stone: ently than it is today. It is very likely The Stone Walls of New England and New York by Susan that if you had hiked the Appalachian Allport, and I learned that two men with pry bars Trail’s route 150 years ago, you would and an ox with an ox sled could build 10 feet of wall not have gone through wooded moun- in a day. If you look around, you’ll see that it must tains; you would have passed small have taken years to build all of these walls. Can you farms, small logging operations and imagine lifting and placing these large rocks on a perhaps some mines. And the view wall all day long? Old Albany Post Road, you should be able to find the from the top of Bear Mountain in Connecticut would I learned there are still the foundations of an old As you continue up the Trail, at one point you may old mile marker. It says that New York City is only 55 have been completely different. The ratio of farmland house and barn that were used as a small pox inocula- notice an old dirt road no longer usable with walls miles away. to woods would have been reversed. tion center during the Revolutionary War right on the on both sides of it coming in from the right. Eventu- Just think about it. Everything you have just This gave me the idea of revisiting a portion of the Trail. I also learned that there was an old mile marker ally it will veer off to the left and leave the Trail route. walked by could be easily covered by a long distance Appalachian Trail to take a closer look at prior human just off the Trail on the Old Albany Post Road. In short, A road like this provides another opportunity for you hiker in a day. Can you imagine seeing and experienc- The author begins impact. I decided to examine a portion of the A.T. east there is enough to check out to keep someone wander- to wander and explore. Did the road connect the ing this much every day for several months? And ev- to ascend the stairs of the Hudson River in New York. My idea was to walk ing for days, months, or perhaps, the rest of one’s life farms to a local community center? If you followed erything on this particular walk just happens to be at Amicalola Falls in the same distance that a typical long distance hiker in this short span of trail. But, more than anything the road far enough would you find remains of an old within commuting distance of the nation’s largest city. Georgia; The A.T. runs would walk in a day (about 15 or 16 miles) just to see else, I thought it would be interesting to see how many commercial establishment or a burial ground? Or When I made the walk, I took a bus from New York directly through an what someone could discover on the day they hiked stone walls were still in place from the old abandoned would it take you to a modern housing development City to Bear Mountain State Park. When I finished the old stone wall in through the area. To develop some context and get farms along the A.T. I knew there were walls, but I and dump you into someone’s backyard? The only walk, 15 or 16 miles up the Trail, a passerby gave me a New York. some notion of what might be there, I read the Trail didn’t remember how extensive they were. way to find out is to wander down the road to see ride to a commuter train station only a few miles away. guides, contacted people responsible for maintaining If you were to take this same hike, you would start where it will take you. Within an hour and 10 minutes I was in Grand Central that section of the Trail, and did some research on the at the Bear Mountain Bridge in New York State to cross One of the place names along the Trail that caught Station in the heart of Manhattan. Internet. I learned that the area was an important the Hudson River. Very soon after crossing the river theater of the Revolutionary War and a major iron you will reach the woods and start making a steep The Gentle Art of Wandering is available at the the Ultimate A.T. Store: atctrailstore.org. David Ryan, is an A.T. 2,000-miler mining area during the 19th Century. climb to the top. Once you reach the top, you can and the author of Long Distance Hiking on the Appalachian for the Older Adventurer. More information can be found on Ryan’s blog: www.gentleartofwandering.com.

42 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ july — august 2012 july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 43 ❘ trail giving

march – april 2012 Creek in Three Forks area north of Springer by Kenny Murray

Individual Gifts Chuck Merrow Kenny Hayden by Richard & Phyllis Weber by Carl & Barbara The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) held its third annual Leadership Robert W. Messerschmidt Kimberly Sanders Melzer, Murray & Enid Miles, Awards Gala in Washington, D.C. in May. This year’s gala honored the conservation efforts $10,000 & above Douglas S. Rauber Louise Hensley Dean by Mrs. June Stillwell of U.S. Representative Norm Dicks of Washington, U.S. Senator Lamar Alexander of Ten- Lenny & Danny Bernstein Carol Reynolds Mr. J. Paul Sutton Malcolm White by Kenneth Sacks nessee, U.S. Senator Patrick Leahy of Vermont, and David Terry L. Lierman Dr. Emma Shelton Harry Hoyt by C.A.M. Cavanaugh, Lynn York by Sarah Kimberlin N. Startzell, former executive director of the ATC. All Elizabeth & Robert Thompson Robert J. Sickley, Jr. Sheila Lieberman, Pamela & & Family honorees played a vital role in protecting the Appalachian Myron Avery Society Dave Siegfried David McClellan Trail and its contiguous land. $5,000 to $9,999 Stanley J. Wiegand Fritz Ilgenfritz by Corporate & Representative Dicks, who served as Honorary Chair Mary Higley & Kyran Kennedy Elizabeth Daniels Foundation Gifts at the event, received the ATC’s Special Conservation Sandra Marra & Chris Brunton In Honor of Norman Johnson by Bev Visionary: Leadership Award for his instrumental work in perma- Mark & Linda Wenger Joe Chavez by David Henderson, Robert & Judith Bavarian Inn nently protecting the A.T. The environment has always Clark Wright & Emily Helms Manchester, Patty Mason, Edd & Gregory Mountain Products been a high priority for Mr. Dicks, who has served on the Trail Explorers Society Jerry Collins Birthday by Beth Merritt, Mr. & Mrs. The Home Depot Interior Appropriations Subcommittee during his entire $2,500 to $4,999 John Collins Hastings Puckett The International Association tenure in Congress. The award was presented by Terry Richard J. Daileader Stan Kornfeld’s Birthday by Rebecca “Becky” Jones by Lois of Machinists and Lierman of Maryland, Gala Committee co-chair and board Arthur & Denise Foley Sherri Gale Kornfeld & Susan Barth, Chimes Metro, Aerospace Workers member of the ATC. Louis D. Lanier Membership & Development Inc., Carol Lea Reynolds Trail Blazer: Senator Lamar Alexander received the ATC’s Congres- David M. Roby Team Commitment to ATC Kate Kessler by Karen McDonnell Comcast sional Leadership Award for his long history of spearheading Arthur Perkins Society by Jim & Marilyn Dickman Richard Kiehna by Jeffrey & Susan Echo Communicate efforts to protect and preserve America’s parks, greenways, $1,000 to $2,499 Belcher, John & Jean Bramhall, Expedia, Inc. and forests ‒ particularly his efforts on behalf of the A.T. Jesse H. Austin, III In Memory of Terry Isert, Joella Killian, Land- Garden Homes Management The award was presented by Charles Maynard of Tennessee, Kara & Jim Ball Willard “Bud” Bundy by OF-Sky Regional Council, Kurt Honeywell board member of the ATC. Dr. Ralph & Jennifer Blumenthal Mrs. Joan Bundy Nordstrom, Saberex Group LTD, Legg Mason Global Senator Leahy also received the ATC’s Congressional David Carter Joe Burke by Barbara & Schippers Family Fund, Lyle & Asset Management From top: Senators Leadership Award, presented by Mary Higley of Florida, Cecil & Joanne Dobbins Michael Williams Janet Smith Summit Global Ventures Alexander (left) and board member of the ATC, for his numerous programs and Brian T. Fitzgerald & Terry “Caterpillar” Carter by Helen Kiely by John & Fran Betz Susan Gage Caterers Leahy (far right) with legislative initiatives designed to protect America’s forests, Brenda Clarkson Robert & Susan Swain Peter Korsholm by Dale UPS the ATC’s executive farmland, and wildlife both in Vermont and around the Daniel E. Hammer Herb Clement, Sr. by B. Paul Mortensen & Family Walmart director Mark globe. After the Gala, Senator Leahy expressed his appre- Charles & Janice Maynard & May Roper John Lawless by Eileen & Robert Leader: Wenger — both ciation for the opportunity to spend some personal time Paul H. Morrow Hazen Cornelius by Margaret Lawless, Village Supermarket, Eagles Nest Outfitters Senators received the with colleagues from both parties to celebrate a shared Timothy & Debra O’Rourke & Joe Rose Inc., DOL Electronics Shop FPL Energy Maine Hydro, LLC ATC’s Congressional priority — the A.T. Edward Sohl Danny Couch by Allison F. Williams Kenny Lefkowitz by Judith Luria Hintz Targeted Marketing Leadership Award; David N. Startzell was honored with the first ever pre- Alice Mae Dame Vernier William L. Curwen by Green Penn Barbara Loo by Kimie & Ambassador: ATC board member sentation of the ATC’s Vanguard Award for his work with Greg Winchester Tripp Dedmon by Peggy Ledford Brian Ching, Gilbert Loo, American Public University Systems Terry Lierman presents the ATC over the past 34 years (25 years as executive director). The award was presented by the Benton MacKaye Society Chris Deffler by Margaret Deffler, Richard Stevens Leki USA, Inc. Representative Dicks Honorable Beverly Byron of Maryland, who served in Congress for 14 years. $500 to $999 Mr. & Mrs. John A. Wolff Michael Marziale by Maggie, Partner: with the ATC’s Special We are very appreciative of the all the corporate partners who sponsor this event. It would Emory W. Ackley Edwin Deffler by Mr. & Michael & Matthew Marziale, 4imprint Conservation Leadership not be possible without their continued support. UPS, The Home Depot, Honeywell, the Inter- Mr. W. Bates Chappell Mrs. John A. Wolff Steve Paradis Trailspace.com Award – photos by national Association of Machinists, and Susan Gage Catering have sponsored for three years Stephen L. Cloues Kyle Doucette by Ann Corran George Matthews by Stacey Marshall. in a row. Comcast, Walmart, and Echo Communicate have supported the gala for the last two Brian Cook Roger Eggleston by Patricia Crockett years. In appreciation we have reprinted our gala sponsors banner in this issue. To see a full Max Cornelius Renata M. Manzo Dawn Norwood by Billie Ayers list of our corporate partners visit: appalachiantrail.org/partners. John W. Cutler, Jr. June Engle by Georgia Carl “the Guru” Ownbey by Congratulations to all of our honorees and thank you to all who attended and made this Richard Disney Appalachian Trail Club Leonard & Laurie Adkins Membership dues and additional donations are tax-deductible event a success. James O. Ellis John Evans by Ms. C. E. Johnson Norman Putnam by as a charitable contribution. Robert B. Gottschalk, Jr. Becky Finch by Don & Jean Arthur, Georgiana Pacent The ATC is a Section 501(c)(3) All the best, Carl Hagelin John & Fran Betz, Gloria George Reny by Armuchee educational organization. Royce W. Gibson ❘ Director of Membership & Development Robert & Nancy Harvey Fracalossy, Marjorie W. Kristen Middle School To make a contribution or Royal Jay Holly Living Trust, Patricia A. Wright Robbie Stamper by East Liberty renew your membership, call Anne Humes Marty Fossett by Brook Stites Automobile Plant (304) 535-6331 ext 119, or visit: Judy L. Lipofsky & Family Franklyn Way by Mrs. Hedy Bauer appalachiantrail.org/donate

julymay — —august june 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 45 ❘ public notices As I See It ❘

Hiking Partners For Sale booklet, complete the activities, demos, Leave No Trace discussions, Need a hiking partner to hike Classic 1975 first edition Hiking and receive a Junior Ranger badge!. games and competitions, and a from Crawford Notch to the Appalachian Trail, both For more information visit: street dance with blue grass band. pitied, I was to be envied — during those five and a Katahdin to complete my S-N volumes. Dust jacket frayed, appalachiantrail.org/events. For more information visit: half months I felt truly alive. I lived by the sun and hike. I am 63 and in good shape. original owner signature but appalachiantrail.org/rangeleydesig my own whims. I had a clear-cut goal and was head- Hike 10-15 miles per day, otherwise very good condition. Celebrate recently designated nation or contact: villagesb@myfair ing straight for it. Any distraction along the way was depending on weather and terrain. $100 plus free shipping to U.S. A.T. Communities along the Trail. point.net. For information on future not considered an obstacle but, rather, was an added Contact: [email protected]. address. Contact: Lynne at Monson, Maine: July 20-22; A.T. Community celebrations visit: bonus to my adventure. I eventually developed faith [email protected] official designation ceremony and appalachiantrail.org/events and in myself and what the Trail would provide for me; Lost & Found Summer Fest Activities include an the A.T. Communities page at: While so many things have happened that the world and most of those in it are benevolent. Found, on 25 April 2012: Man’s For Your Information Anything Floats Race, a Slate Man appalachiantrail.org/community during the past three years to make me feel farther I felt such a sense of community among strangers wedding ring at Virginia Route On July 21 ATC Headquarters will Triathlon, music, field games, craft partners. and farther away from Springer, the memories from that I began to realize the details of who I am didn’t 603, Fox Creek trail head behind host Junior Ranger Day. Kids of fair, guided hikes and more! Visit: my first day on the Trail are so vivid that sometimes matter as much the understanding and acceptance kiosk. Please advise color, size, and all ages are welcome to gather appalachiantrail.org/monsondesig Public Notices may be edited it feels as though I can just close my eyes and instan- that comes from a shared goal — pursuing happiness for clarity and length. internal inscription. Will return it to together to learn about the A.T. and nation and monsonmaine.org. taneously find myself climbing a mountain in the and fulfilling a dream. Please send them to: you by mail. Contact: Ned how to get out on the Trail by Rangeley, Maine: September [email protected] cold rain. Few days of my life are as etched into my Every day since I reached out and touched that “Typhoon” Kuhns at (757) 552-0292 taking part in the Junior Ranger 15-16 The community will celebrate Public Notices soul as that day and all the rest that followed when mighty sign on Katahdin I’ve tried to recreate those or [email protected]. program. Stop by the ATC Visitor their official designation, have I was completing my thru-hike. IAN P.O. Box 807 H T Center to receive a Junior Ranger educational exhibits, survival skills Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-0807 I’ve spent a lot of time wondering what it was AC R L A about hiking to Maine that made those months A I P L some of the happiest ever. I was away from my fam- P

A ily and friends, and way out of my comfort zone. The

Commemorative 75th strangers I met in the woods didn’t know me from

Adam — they didn’t know what I liked to do on

Anniversary A.T. Poster ANNIVERSARY weekends, where I grew up, that I was married, how Receive your limited edition I liked my pizza, what I had done with my life up commemorative poster with any until that point. I was dirty. Not just a little mud smear here and there, but the kind of dirty that IAN H T AC R L A A I P L

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donation $35 and above.

stains your skin and fingernails. The kind of dirty

ANNIVERSARY you eventually no longer notice. The kind of dirty that will never be washed away. The kind of dirty that IAN CH T A R While supplies last. L A A I P L

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made day hikers squirm with discomfort as the ANNIVERSARY www.appalachiantrail.org/75 stench swirled around and made folks who gave us a ride reach for a can of Febreeze the second they IAN dropped us off. I worked all day, every day. I worked H T “Why do you love the AC R so hard at walking that, eventually, 15 miles up and L A Appalachian Trail?” Video Contest down mountains sounded like an easy day, a slow A I P L day. I worked so hard that I wore out three pairs of P

You could ask a hundred different people why they hike the A.T. and you’d

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boots and the tips of my hiking poles. I worked so

probably get a hundred different answers. But whatever their motives may be,

hard that I wasted away, became little more than feelings. It’s not as simple as it was out on the Trail, From top: Nevena

they come back, time and time again, because they love the Appalachian Trail! at the Maine state bones, muscle, dirt, and hair. I was starving. I con- but I can’t expect it to be. There are so many more

ANNIVERSARY stantly checked my dwindling food supply and was variables in life off Trail; and goals aren’t as straight- line; Nevena and That’s why the ATC wants to know why you love the A.T.! always hoping for more than what I found. I ate forward and well-marked. But that’s ok. Feeling her constant hiking We will be accepting video-shorts, no longer than three minutes, anything I could get my grubby hands on. alive on the A.T. was the result of a lot of hard work companion Amy which answer the question, “Why do you love the Appalachian Trail?” I looked bedraggled, starved, homeless, and and sacrifice; while inherent, I had to find it and be “Wags” Armon nearly possessionless anytime I walked out of the brave enough to accept it. I can only hope and pray are euphoric at the To enter, simply visit Facebook.com/AThike, and locate the tab marked woods and into a town. That is, until someone saw that the person I grew to be in those woods is still completion of their Do you want your “Video Contest.” Videos will be accepted until Sunday, September 2, 2012. my face. Underneath all the dirt and sweat I am sure strong enough to keep searching. hike – photos by photography published The grand prize winner will receive a custom ATC hammock, courtesy of my eyes were shining and I was smiling. Despite what Nevena “Gangsta” Martin Amy Armon. ENO™, have their video screened at this year’s “Discover the Appalachian one might assume at first glance, I was not to be lives in Starkville, Mississippi. in A.T. Journeys? Trail” Fall membership drive, be featured in A.T. Journeys, and the ATC’s YouTube page. “As I See It” is a monthly column from guest contributors representing the full range of the ATC partners, members, and volunteers. To submit a Send photos (2MB or larger) of hikers, shelters, campsites, and scenic column for consideration, please email [email protected] or write to Editor/As I See It, Appalachian Trail Conservancy, P.O. Box shots from Maine to Georgia to: [email protected]. For more information visit: 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425. www.facebook.com/Athike. northern end Shenandoah National Park by Ken Miller july — august 2012 ❘ a.t. journeys ❘ 47 www.appalachiantrail.org P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-0807

Help to preserve and protect the A.T.

Become a part of the A.T. community. Volunteer with a Trail Club or Trail Crew. Encourage your family and friends to get involved by giving them a gift membership. appalachiantrail.org Michael “Hand Me Down” McClure completes his section hike of the Trail – photo by Donna McClure.