JOURNEYS THE MAGAZINE OF THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL CONSERVANCY July — August 2012 INSIDE: Big Bald Bird Banding ❙ Family Hiking ❙ Shared History: A.T. Presidential Visits ❘ JOURNEYS FROM THE EDITOR THE MAGAZINE OF THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL CONSERVANCY Volume 8, Number 4 APPALacHIAN MIGRATION. A PROTECTED PATH AS UNIQUE AS THE A.T. OFFERS ALL OF ITS July — August 2012 visitors and natural inhabitants the freedom to progress, in both a literal and figurative sense. In this way the Appalachian Trail is a migratory path, providing hikers the autonomy to wander through lush fields, along roll- ing grassy balds, and up and over rugged but fiercely beautiful mountains from which they are given a glimpse Mission of the vantage point of high-flying birds. And by way of the Trail and its corridor, the birds too are given freedom The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s mission is to preserve and manage the Appalachian Trail — ensuring to travel — high above and safely through the fields, forests, and Appalachian Mountains of the eastern U.S. that its vast natural beauty and priceless cultural heritage can be shared and enjoyed today, tomorrow, Along the North Carolina and Tennessee mountains of the Trail, the Big Bald Banding Station, operated by and for centuries to come. volunteers from Southern Appalachian Raptor Research, monitors the passage of thousands of winged A.T. inhabitants. “[It] is one of very few banding stations in the U.S. that monitors and bands songbirds, raptors, and On the Cover: Nevena “Gangsta” owls. An average of 2,000 passerines are captured, banded, and safely released during each autumn migration Martin carefully crosses a stream in Board of Directors A.T. Journeys at Big Bald,” says volunteer Mark Hopey (page 24). These volunteers are also teaching future generations to Baxter State Park during a 10-mile trek J. Robert (Bob) Almand ❘ Chair Wendy K. Probst ❘ Managing Editor understand and respect the importance of birds in the southern Appalachian — with her thru-hiking partner Amy William L. (Bill) Plouffe ❘ Vice Chair Traci Anfuso-Young ❘ Graphic Designer Mountains each summer during Vacation Bird School, where local elemen- “Wags” Armon — from Rainbow Kara Ball ❘ Secretary tary school students are immersed in a world of bird ecology through litera- Bridge to Katadhin Stream camp- Arthur Foley ❘ Treasurer Contributors ture readings, creative writing, applied arts, nest searching, bird banding, ground. “The crossing was deceivingly Lenny Bernstein Laurie Potteiger ❘ Information Services Manager and data collection techniques. intense — it took each of us about Richard Daileader Chris Loomis ❘ Proofreader Behind these idyllic Appalachian Trail scenes of humans, flora, and five minutes to maneuver across the Marcia Fairweather fauna positively coexisting, is a driving force consisting of thousands of The staff of A.T. Journeys welcomes hand-full of rocks to safely reach the Brian T. Fitzgerald people who support the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC), the A.T. editorial inquiries and comments. other side. Wags bravely crossed first, Mary Higley Park Office, and the multitude of organizations and volunteer groups (like E-mail: [email protected] even though she has a fear of water Terry Lierman the indispensable Trail-maintaining clubs and the ATC’s Trail crews) to crossings, and shot this photo as I Sandra (Sandi) Marra Observations, conclusions, opinions, and product keep this delicate balance obtainable. Exemplary of this was the recent, slowly made my way over,” explains Charles Maynard endorsements expressed in A.T. Journeys are those successful completion of a boardwalk along a problematic, swampy area Nevena. “That day was such a jubilant Elizabeth (Betsy) Pierce Thompson of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the A.T. in Pawling, New York (page 28). “Most A.T. visitors are well one — my husband, James, slack- Clark Wright Jr. of members of the board or staff of the Appalachian aware that the Trail typically follows the height of land across the ridge packed us, the Trail was so flat and Trail Conservancy. tops of the Appalachians and that valley crossings are less common. A easy, and Katahdin was literally just ATC Executive Staff tenet of A.T. trail design and construction is that the footpath ‘lie lightly Inset: A Vacation Bird School student around the corner so we all felt like we Mark J. Wenger ❘ Executive Director Advertising on the land’,” explains the ATC’s Mid-Atlantic regional director Karen gently holds a banded bird that is had our thru-hikes in the bag and Stephen J. Paradis ❘ Chief Operating Officer A.T. Journeys is published six times per year. Lutz. “This presents a dilemma for Trail designers who occasionally have about to be released back onto the giddily skipped our way down the Trail. Stacey J. Marshall ❘ Director of Finance Advertising revenues directly support the complex crossings across fragile terrain, such as the Swamp River wetland. A.T. – photo courtesy of Southern But in her very typical fashion, the Trail & Administration publication and production of the magazine, Accommodating lots of visitors, fragile habitat, and a desire to reach a Appalachian Raptor Research; showed us, via that stream crossing, Royce W. Gibson ❘ Director of Membership and help meet Appalachian Trail Conservancy simple aesthetic that is subordinate to, and does not overwhelm, the Background: Rhododendrons in full that the challenges of the A.T. never & Development objectives. For more information and advertising landscape is a challenge. Achieving those objectives requires a bit of sci- bloom on the A.T. in the Blue Ridge cease, and that the Trail will break you Laura Belleville ❘ Director of Conservation rates, visit: appalachiantrail.org/advertising. ence with a strong measure of art.” Mountains of Virginia – photo by down again and again in order to build Brian B. King ❘ Publisher Anyone who has set out on an excursion on the A.T. can attest to a feel- Tom Lawson. you back up.” Nevena and Amy had Javier Folgar ❘ Marketing & A.T. Journeys is published on Sterling Matte paper that is ing of emotional evolution. “Underneath all the dirt and sweat I am sure met by chance at the beginning of Communications Manager manufactured by NewPage Corporation, responsibly my eyes were shining and I was smiling,” says recent thru-hiker Nevena Martin (page 47). “Despite what one both of their hikes at Springer sourced, using allocated chain-of-custody certified fiber. might assume at first glance, I was not to be pitied, I was to be envied … I felt truly alive.” Photographer Mi- Mountain in Georgia. The two then It is printed with SoySeal certified ink in the U.S.A. by chael Pyle also felt this transition into “something far greater than himself.” Appropriate to the theme that stayed together all the way to Dartmouth Printing Company, Sterling, Virginia. his photos encapsulate (page 32), Michael explains his thoughts about a childhood hike to Bear Rocks in Katahdin (As I See It, page 47). Pennsylvania with his father: “I reached the summit out of breath, hands raw [and the] vista before my eyes was breathtaking. I imagined myself soaring over the pastoral scene, like the red-tailed hawk circling above.” For the animals and birds who inhabit it, the Trail provides the freedom to make necessary migrations each year, and for those fortunate humans who find themselves migrating the Trail for a day, a week, or several months at a stretch, it provides the freedom to process thought, gain new perspectives, and feel at peace as they A.T. Journeys ( ISSN 1556-2751) is published bimonthly travel — and their souls soar — along the highs and lows of this most magnificent, enduring path. for $15 a year by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, 799 Washington Street, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425, Membership Wendy K. Probst ❘ Managing Editor (304) 535-6331. Bulk-rate postage paid at Harpers Ferry, For membership questions or to become a member, call (304) 535-6331, ext. 119, West Virginia, and other offices. or e-mail [email protected]. A.T. Journeys welcomes your comments, story suggestions and photographs. Queries may be submitted via e-mail to [email protected]. Postmaster: Send change-of-address Form 3575 to A.T. Journeys, P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425. © 2012 Appalachian Trail Conservancy. All rights reserved. Get Social With Us may — june 2012 ❘ A.T. JOURNEYS ❘ 03 CONTENts ❘ July — August 2012 ❘ 10 ❘ features 10 A.T. Family Adventures In anticipation of Family Hiking Day, we suggest 10 great places to unwind and get back to nature with your family along the Trail. 18 One Shared History Before it was a trail, the A.T. was the heartland of ❘ 38 ❘ the American frontier — many U.S. presidents have extolled its beauty and assisted in its development, protection, and maintenance. departments 24 16 ❘ TRAILHEAD Mountain Migration Trail to Every Classroom in Union County; In the high peaks of the mountains of North A.T. Museum Leaders Honored Carolina and Tennessee A.T. hikers might come ❘ 28 ❘ across volunteers who monitor songbirds, raptors, 38 ❘ TERRA INCOGNITA and owls with the Big Bald Banding Station. A member of the Potomac A.T. Club joins an old friend to support a capable and determined group of adventurous 03 ❘ FROM THE EDITOR blind trailblazers explore new ground during a 28 pre-Trail practice hike. Not Bogged Down 06 ❘ LETTERS ❘ 24 ❘ Both science and art went into the careful, ❘ ❘ 42 TRAIL STORIES two-year construction of the new Pawling Boardwalk, 08 OvERLOOK In his book The Gentle Art of Wandering David Ryan keeping hikers’ feet dry and protecting swampy ❘ ponders the history and significance of lesser noticed, Inset: Volunteer, Kathy Gunther, wetlands on A.T. in New York. 44 TRAIL GIVING releases a sharp-shinned hawk after and somewhat hidden, landmarks on the Trail.