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JOSE MORAN MOYA Noma’s herb toast and smoked cod roe combines earthy, acidic and seafood flavors. A local oyster prepared with seaweed oil at Noma restaurant Icelandic skyr (a yogurt-like product), Swedish Noma, but the food and dining experience are shops. The Inge Vincent ceramics shop is one of truffles and musk ox. Both Meyer and Redzepi equally as memorable. In fact, the restaurant, the area’s treasures; the shop’s paper-thin, airy insist that all food selections at Noma not only located on Jaegersborggade, a small street in the pieces are a testament to the city’s reputation as celebrate food’s taste, but also honor its unique city’s Norrebro district, is largely credited with a design hot spot. The thoroughfare also offers history, geography and culture. At Noma, as with breathing new life into the formerly rough and a unique micro-view of just how Copenhagen’s many of Denmark’s best restaurants, the prepara- run-down area. food movement has trickled down to influence tion and presentation of food aim to engage din- Jaegersborggade is now one of the hippest and encourage ingenuity and talent in all forms. ers’ minds as much as their taste buds. neighborhoods in the city and features a bevy The street is home to a local favorite, Manfreds “The new Nordic cuisine manifesto … has of cafes, clothing stores, and jewelry and design & Vin restaurant; Ro Chokolade, which supplies produced a lot of restaurants, bakeries and small- THOMAS IBSEN scale food producers who serve or sell food that is intimately linked to our landscapes and have SAMPLING THE rather unique flavor profiles,” Meyer explains. “Thus, they can be replaced by nothing else in the world.” Meyer passionately practices what he preaches. Bolstered by the popularity of the Nordic food CITY of SPIRES movement and the success of Noma, in October 2013 he opened The Standard, a multilevel In addition to being the capital of the world’s happiest country, complex that features three restaurants, a jazz club and two bars, and has already generated an Copenhagen is also the globe’s newest culinary mecca. onslaught of favorable buzz. BY SANDRA MACGREGOR A Full Plate openhagen, a city once best known First Course foodies across Scandinavia to revaluate their Copenhagen’s culinary cache reaches far beyond for its pickled herring and frigid Few would argue that the country—and approach to Nordic fare. Noma, Redzepi and Meyer. The city is currently winters, has in the past few years Scandinavia itself—owes much of its ascension to In less than a decade after the publication home to 13 restaurants boasting a total of 15 Ccome to claim its rightful spot beside the height of haute cuisine to chef René Redzepi of Meyer’s testament to taste, Noma would be Michelin stars, as well as a culinary cornucopia London, Paris and Milan as one of the world’s and restaurateur Claus Meyer. The two men recognized three times in a row as the best restau- of eateries and drinking establishments whose most enthralling culinary capitals. With an ever- co-founded Noma, Copenhagen’s most famous rant in the world by the prestigious Restaurant primary aim is to show off the extraordinary growing list of Michelin-starred restaurants and and award-winning restaurant, and it was magazine, as well as achieve two coveted influence a cold clime can have on warming your menus that feature one-of-a-kind ingredients Meyer who, in 2004, unveiled his revolutionary Michelin stars. appetite and spirit. like fried reindeer moss and sea buckthorn, “Manifesto for the New Nordic Kitchen.” The Those lucky enough to get a table at Noma Another restaurant garnering rave reviews— Copenhagen’s Nordic offerings continue to manifesto, which calls for a regional, seasonal (plan to book a reservation at least three months and a Michelin star—is Relae. Co-owned by attract in-the-know foodies looking to sate their and sustainable relationship with food, would in advance) will find a menu true to Meyer’s former Noma chef Christian Puglisi, the restau- appetites with innovative, exquisite cuisine. ignite a passion in chefs, food producers and manifesto and filled with singular specialties like rant boasts a more casual setting than that of Noma was named the best restaurant in the world in 2010, 2011 and 2012 by Restaurant Magazine. 88 89 MONTAGE | SPRING 2014 MONTAGE | SPRING 2014 CELEBRATING DENMARK’S CAPITAL Copenhagen’s seasonal traditions provide an authentic glimpse into local culture. Here are some suggestions for enjoying a holiday during the city’s warmer months: PHOTOS COURTESY OF 1105 QUEEN’S BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION APRIL 16; AMALIENBORG PALACE Denmark’s monarchy dates back more than 1,000 years, making it Europe’s oldest, as well as a source of pride for the country’s constituents. Thousands of Danes from all over the country annually descend upon the capital to pay tribute to Queen Margrethe II on her birthday. The queen tradi- tionally makes a rare appearance to greet the crowd from her balcony at Unripe strawberries, cress and buttermilk from Relae, a restaurant credited with Relae’s caramelized onion, poached with elderberries and served with sorrel Amalienborg Palace, a site that’s worth the revitalization of Copenhagen’s Norrebro district leaves, tapioca and onion puree a tour of its own any time of year. The Bar 1105’s sophisticated, event also affords locals and visitors singular handmade chocolates; and The Coffee The Cocktail List minimalist decor ensures the alike a unique opportunity to witness Collective, a specialty coffee roaster that’s gar- A city’s culinary takeoff is often mirrored by a cocktails take center stage. a special changing of the royal guard. nered a cult following. similarly stellar rise in its drinking establishments, (dkks.dk/amalienborg-palace) Die-hard gourmands will not be able to and the pattern has held true in Copenhagen. An resist comparing Noma to the city’s other two- exciting array of bars and cocktail lounges has COPENHAGEN BEER FESTIVAL Michelin-starred establishment, Geranium. flooded the City of Spires in the past few years, MAY 22-24; TAP 1 Whereas Noma’s design is sparse and under- most notably in the picturesque Gammel Strand As the home of Tuborg and Carlsberg, stated, Geranium favors a sleek, cultivated atmo- area. The legendary Union bar, which is modeled Copenhagen has long been a bea- sphere—and the menu is just as refined. But, as after a Prohibition-era speakeasy, is located near con for beer aficionados. From May many local and international food connoisseurs the central square. To ensure that it is frequented 22-24, both visitors and locals can will attest, the only way to really know which by those in the know, the bar has no address or embrace the city’s malt culture at the restaurant stands supreme is to experience both signage—loyal patrons can only identify it by a Copenhagen Beer Festival. Held at and let one’s palate decide. gold bell above a black door. Tap 1, the original site of Carlsberg’s NADEZHDA1906 - SHUTTERSTOCK brewery, the event will feature a dizzy- Paul Muldowney, owner of The Union, All the Ingredients ing array of more than 700 beers from explains that one of the main driving forces Copenhagen’s newfound status as a culinary both large beer brands and micro- behind the city’s increase in innovative, luxury capital adds to its already sterling reputation breweries. This is a unique opportu- cocktail lounges is the culinary scene. “There as one of Europe’s most aesthetically inspired nity to taste a large selection of brews, PAUL MULDOWNEY are a lot of Michelin-starred restaurants here countries. It is, after all, the birthplace of Lego, many of which aren’t available in other now, and high-end cuisine is very popular,” he Bang & Olufsen, Bodum and famed storyteller parts of the world. (beerfestival.dk) says. “When people go out, they expect a high Hans Christian Andersen. One must simply stroll standard of experience.” It’s that same quality around the city’s compact, charming streets to SANKT HANS AFTEN of experience that Muldowney’s exclusive bar gain an appreciation for its subtle yet innovative (ST. JOHN’S EVE) undoubtedly delivers. approach to both architecture and design. JUNE 23; CITYWIDE Copenhagen is arguably the most bicycle- Another cocktail lounge that has become a With such intriguing cuisine and a distinctly It should come as no surprise that friendly city in the world. favorite among foodies is 1105 (which is said to progressive culture, it’s no surprise Denmark was Danes, who endure below-freezing NANISIMOVA - SHUTTERSTOCK NANISIMOVA be a popular haunt for the Noma staff). This styl- ranked as the world’s happiest country in the temperatures during winter, have ish, contemporary establishment is famed for its United Nations’ World Happiness Report, and a special appreciation for warmer inventive cocktails, like the Copenhagen cocktail, the EU’s second most innovative country by the months. The summer solstice is one an inspired blend of Heering cherry liqueur, Bols European Commission in 2013. Meanwhile, the of the biggest festivals throughout all Genever, lime juice, simple syrup and Angostura European Commission also named Copenhagen of Scandinavia, and the celebration bitters. The bar’s manager, Hardeep Rehal, the European Green Capital of 2014 due to the welcoming the sun god dates back to appreciates just how much the culinary move- city’s environmentally conscious urban planning, pagan times. Copenhagen hosts one ment has motivated members of the city’s food bicycle-friendly streets and plans to become car- of the most boisterous tributes on and beverage scene: “What you are experienc- bon neutral by 2025.

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