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E-book Milan on Bike

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Authors and Photographers Marialuisa Bonivento itinerary: Gianfranco Rocculi itinerary: Giordano Roverato itinerary: Alessandro Avalli itinerary: Maps Editor Luca Marin Graphic Design Alberto Fardin Dealership Ads Green Life srl e Clear Channel

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Crystal Milan

The Crystal Milan runs the new districts of recent construction that put Milan ahead together with the big world capital cities. The bicycle route to discover the futuristic contemporary skyscrapers starts at the Pirelli skyscraper and winds along the new Milan until the Palazzo Lombardia skyscraper through places that will make you ride with your head upwards.

5 km

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A bit of history

Milan is found at the centre of rising in the name of technological the Po Valley and surrounded achievements, such as the electric by mountains that are perceived elevator and the introduction within nearby distance during clear of structures with steel beams windy days. and columns, instead, in Milan, excluding some non-residential Milan was for centuries a horizontal structure, such as church towers, city with the imposing whitening of urban development was privileged the Duomo as the only reference in width and horizontal lines, such for its height. The placement of the as in the projects of Luigi Broggi: “Madonnina” on the highest spire for example, the former Stock dates back to 1774. Exchange Building, now Post The 108,50 meters height was Office in Cordusio Square and the a limit that no one would had Italian Credit Palace in the nearby ever thought to cross for a long Tommaso Grossi Street. time. Just over a century later, while in the “Loop” of the city of Chicago, destroyed by a terrible fire, the first “skyscrapers” were

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Still in the early ‘900, in fact, the building code in Milan, appreciated by traditionalists, prescribed a maximum height of 28 meters. Only in 1923, in Piemonte Square, in a scenic location right near Washington Street, the prescribed limit was waived due to the vastness of the square and side streets, bringing the height of the two ten-floor-twin buildings to 38 meters. These buildings were rough, decidedly bourgeois in taste and between the eclectic and decò styles. It was, however, an isolated phenomenon that had a following ten years later with the construction of the Parco Tower or Littoria, today Branca, a structural skeleton built in just 68 working days with Dalmine steel tubes. Inaugurated at the Fifth “Triennale” and therefore erected with panorama and celebratory functions, this resounding land- mark, in fact, tops 108,60 meters, 10 meters more than the “Madonnina”. Nowadays this is still the highest panoramic point accessible to the public.

Palazzo del Comune

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Crystal Milan

In the following years, many American style Pirelli skyscraper “towers” would rise in the centre (1955-60), that, in the diaphanous of Milan, always characterised transparency of the curtain wall, by the fullness of the building’s is in closed form, isolated from façade but much higher than the the context and resolved in itself. surrounding buildings. It is from this building that we will begin our bike journey to discover From Rasini Tower (1933-34) the futuristic and contemporary to Porta Venezia, Snia Viscosa skyscrapers, which we will Tower (1935-37) in Corso continue to call “Towers” almost to Matteotti, Locatelli Tower (1936- contextualise their impact. 39) in Repubblica Square, the discussed New Medieval Velasca Tower, a masterpiece of 1958, which, as Rogers would say, takes into account the pre-existing environment and the different historical finds in the area, in a subtle play of allusions. In stark contrast appears the

Milan Skyline

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Following the new bike lanes and not only of futuristic meeting that have found their paths in a places for young and old people. natural way -- almost predestined, The new “skyscrapers”, which not only ideally, to connect are many more in number than architectures and ways of life -- in London, are located in central you see the City sliding in front areas and not in compounds such of you, with the feeling that its as La Défence in Paris or Eur in modernity is not raised haughtily, Rome. but in all its humanity, with the loving relationship typical of a The effect is that they give the village. impression of being ubiquitous in the City skyline, towering in The new “Towers” are not just the distance with their typical about business, in fact, but people silhouettes, from building to building, live and take possession, once often with studied symmetries. cranes, scaffolding, excavations Following the proposed route, and shovels give way to gardens it is fun to take small personal and public spaces, first with digressions to discover and perplexity, almost afraid, then with acquire interesting views, to then undisguised pride. The squares go back to the original road. acquire the ancient role of agorà

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We start from a Vertical Fairy Tale

The cycle path coming from the “A vertical fairy tale”, Biancardi Central Station, carrying along wrote in his novel “The bitter Vittor Pisani Street, grazes on the life.” With its 127-meters height, right “Il Pirellone” (The Pirelli Tower). the building actually appeared higher than the “Madonnina” and It is also known as the “slender to preserve the tradition that building” that housed for years somehow did not want to exceed the Lombardy Region, which such height, a miniature copy of deservedly carved out its role as a the great golden Madonnina statue noble father to Milan skyscrapers. was placed on top in secret. Destroyed by bombing and built between 1955 and 1960, on A creative Italian-style solution that the ashes of the historical Pirelli made everybody happy and the factories, it takes, among others, problem was well overcome. the unmistakable signature of Gio Ponti, who wanted in his project to give value to the intangible perfection of the crystal structure.

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Before continuing on to Vittor Pisani Street it is worth taking a look to the Galfa Tower, which owes its enigmatic name to the acronym of the two streets that border it, Galvani and Fara. Shortly after its amiantus removal, widely used at the time in that type of buildings, the skyscraper was “occupied” by political protests that advocated a ready use. Continuing along the path that runs along the wide Pisani Street with its high arches, you will get to the Republica Square, between two imposing towers, almost signs of recognition and welcome, on the left, the 31-story Breda Tower built in 1954 and on the right, the 18-story Locatelli Tower built in 1939. Between the two, there is a difference of nearly 50 meters that you can clearly see continuing the path and turning to look at the towers from far in perspective.

Locatelli and Breda Towers

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Towards the “Diamantone”

From Repubblica Square, following Solaria Tower the path that bends to the right, we first take Ferdinando di Savoia Avenue and then Liberazione Avenue. Here, where only a few years ago there were large empty and broken areas, partially occupied by the “Varesine Lunapark”, now two skyscrapers appear, built at the respective ends of the site between Gioia Street and Galilei Street, the Solaria Arquitectonica Tower and the Varesine B Tower by Lee Polisano and Kohn Pedersen & Fox, affectionately nicknamed “Diamantone”, due to the faceted shape and its irregular geometry with perimeter columns

inclined from the vertical line in a game of oblique lines. As the highest steel construction in Italy, it enjoys a more uniform façade and minor defects such as undulations, just to name the most obvious, and presents laminated glass instead of the traditional ones that were thermal tempered.

Diamantini and Varesine B Tower

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Moreover, as a building Diamantone constructed according to principles of environmental sustainability, it is LEED GOLD certified, one of the highest levels recognised by the Green Building Council. It consists of 30 floors plus four undergrounds, it is correlated by a series of low bodies of 9 floors, also known as “diamantini” (little diamonds), all for office use. Residential instead is the Solaria, the tallest building in Italy in its category as one of its three wings reaches 143 meters. Altogether it hosts 102 apartments, some on two or three floors, with swimming pools or hot tubs. The progressive transparency of the glass etched in the parapets was designed to allow at the same time privacy and views of the landscape. As an “extreme” luxury building, “multipurpose” areas have been co-housed, such as a home theatre with large screen, room for meetings, play areas for children, areas for yoga practice, party room, library and also a billiard table.

Diamantini

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Samsung district

meetings and promoter of events targeted at citizens, businesses and institutions. Open to the public and with independent access from the offices, it is really worth a visit, there is one showroom where all visitors have the opportunity to experience the Smart Home through the best In a place where technologies and touch with hands you can breathe the the Samsung ecosystem. future after each pedal stroke, the Samsung District can not Certified LEED Gold for the level be missed in its 12,500 square of sustainable quality, in line meters. It constitutes a real digital with international standards, this and technological district at the represents the building where the service of the community in addition technology keeps up with the times. to giving hospitality to its company offices in a efficient, comfortable and interactive manner, according to the new models of the Smart Work. Inside the new centre of innovation and business in Milan, born from the redevelopment project of Porta Nuova, and precisely on the ground floor of the “Diamantino” building, the Samsung Smart Arena shines with an auditorium equipped with the best technologies. Thanks to a space that is completely adjustable to its many diverse projects and initiatives, it is protagonist of conferences and SAMSUNG

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Taking a brief digression on Vespucci Street and reaching Along the short Vespucci Street, on the odd numbers side, there are several small beyond the nineteenth-century restaurants where there is an air of novelty. At Porta Nuova, it is curious to note number 5, “Petit”, a bistro-friendly atmosphere, “shabby chic” (www.petitbistrogroup.com), N. the contrast with the futuristic 3 the fish restaurant “Sweet”, where, in the tower that is in the background, afternoon you can taste an aperitif with “fried and bubbles” (sweet-milano.it) and N. 1, l ‘Alulife like a warm hug of past and future. Café, open from 7 am to 24, with competitive prices and pleasant outdoor space weather In fact, it is this gate that gives its permitting (www.alulifecafe.com). name to the skyscrapers project built from 2010 to 2013, at the time called “nuova” (new) because it was the latest built.

Porta Nuova

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From the Path to the Podium

The square was dedicated to Gae Aulenti and called “podium” because it is 6 meters above From an area with elevated views, street level, giving access to take the “crossover”, a long shops, homes and hotels. pedestrian-cycle bridge, bypassing the axis road of Melchiorre Gioia, that connects Repubblica Square with Garibaldi, in a few minutes, by foot or by bicycle. One can therefore access the heart of the complex signed by César Pelli, consisting of a circular plaza with a diameter of 100 meters around which three steep winding silvery towers lie in various heights made by eco-sustainable glass and steel.

Gae Aulent Square

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A sinuous bench sculpture winds Unicredit Tower around three circular fountains covered with a thin water layer. At the centre, a technological tree, the Solar Tree, comes out like a firework and lights the square with solar energy. The highest tower (231 meters), that hangs in all its grey and bright verticality, is the UniCredit’s headquarter, which gives its name to the skyscraper. Its peculiar Events take place, such as concerts characteristic is the 85 meter in summer. An ice rink will be installed spire, tapering upwards, almost in winter. Also highly popular, football tables (Balilla old style) for resembling the highest spire of the twenty players where teams battle Duomo. it cheerfully in extemporaneous Steel perforated, to prevent the international formations. It’s enough to leave a document to receive the formation of ice, it is entirely ball. covered with LEDs that determine its colour from time to time: lilac at Now the rumour has spread among tourists. Perfectly in line with the the inauguration of the subway line spirit of the new era is RED, chosen M5 stops of Isola and Garibaldi, by Feltrinelli for its library at the base red for the 150 anniversary of the of the Unicredit Tower, acronym for Red Cross or tricolour. “Read, Eat, Dream”, reminding Sartre who gathered his friends around the Among the other two towers, the dinner table in the library. 22-story B and 12-story C, there is a large gap in the centre from which 23 long golden trumpets rise from the lower floors, an installation of Alberto Garutti, as futuristic ears of Dionysius, bringing the sounds from below to the surface.

23 Trumpets

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Descending to Corso Como

Beyond, flanked by the buildings The area of Corso Como, a long stretch of the “borghetto” (little town) of Comasina Street: the area is now designed by the Studio Muñoz & very fashionable and topical, completely Albin Houston, there is a street pedestrian. During the urbanisation of going down named after Vincenzo the late nineteenth century it became populated with workers’ houses and Capelli, war and peace patriot. small craft activities and industrial and Residential units with terraces and it retains original structural features that were revisited. gardens raised in different forms are placed above the commercial A successful example is at number 10: the Sozzani Gallery (www.10corsocomo. part designed as high glass com) is appreciated all over the world volumes. Here too, great attention with its multifunctional philosophy that was given to energy consumption, embraces art, music, culture, cuisine which is 10% lower than law and design, as well as for the trendy nights in nightclubs and lounge bars standards. that have a high concentration in the At the end of the descent, we take area. Corso Como, while to the right, beyond the green zone dedicated to Anna Politkovskaya. you can see the Garibaldi station, the city’s neuralgic centre. At the end of the Corso Como pedestrian area, which is interesting not only for its shops and venues but also for its people, you find yourself in XXV Aprile Square, dominated at the centre by Porta Garibaldi.

Via Vincenzo Capelli

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After taking a look at the former Smeraldo theatre, that was given Pasubio Avenue is another street full of a new life with Eataly (www.eataly. delightful places, derived mostly from old net/it), you take Pasubio Avenue industrial spaces: at Number 2, “Factory, ,Marroncelli Street and then pizzeria with kitchen”, where beautiful pedalling from Quadrio Street, frescoes in charcoal evoke workers’ steeply but short along a “bend”, environments of the past. Fine wines and no to additives and preservatives (www. until you get to Cavalcavia Bussa lafabbricapizzeria.it). Across the street, from which you have a view of the third is a “Flavour Factory” where tracks and points of the below fans of “street food” can find home made train station. piadine of all kinds. Popular flavours in exquisitely traditional Italian dishes The area of 8,400 square (DOC), instead, are served at “Osteria meters, built in 1961 and now in del Gambero Rosso” at number 6. The transformation process, appears name comes from Pinocchio, Collodi’s tale remembered in various designs on dominated by the two Garibaldi the walls (www.algambero.com). Open Towers, former state railways, since 1880 at number 10, corner of Via in all their grandeur. In their Marroncelli, l’ “Antica Trattoria della Pesa” redevelopment not only unlikely continues to offer traditional Milanese panel colours, pastel pink and cuisine where risotto with Ossobuco, sausage and cassouela are the master yellow, with a patchwork effect in dishes. Vegetarians off limits, of course. contrast with bluish windows were Just to note that Milan was already replaced by Studio CMR Space international in the ‘20s, as evidenced by with a rigorous white / blue high a plaque at the entrance, Ho Chi Min tech design, but also, less visible used to eat, who it’s said to have lived in a small apartment in Maroncelli Street. but perhaps more important, technological systems were redesigned with the construction of solar collectors, solar chimney with natural ventilation, ventilated hyperactive facades, wells for the groundwater’s exploitation, climate controlled greenhouses in the floors and anything else that was just a dream of a few visionaries when the buildings were built.

Garibaldi Towers

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Bosco Verticale

A short walk from the skyscrapers, in Going down the bike path, you find Maroncelli Street is a narrow street where yourself in the Isola neighbourhood, there are laboratories, eccentric clothing stores, which once was isolated and among the most unconventional of Milan, and dangerous, a place, they said, art galleries. Among these, at number 10, you can find the Colombari Galleries where Scarlett “from which to stay away.” Today, and Paola, “daughters of art” as heirs of a instead, it is a magnet for young dynasty of antiques Turinese dealers, manage people often involved in ecology two large spaces. initiatives. One focuses on furniture, lamps, pictures, vases signed by Mollino, Mendini, Bridges and From Borsieri Street, which continues other designers of the ‘900, while the other is to the left , take De Castillia Street, attracted by the art design and by incredible To the left, by Boeri Studio, as gleaming “Bossalino style” hats. At number 12 there are both Tallulah Studio Gallery, with monuments of the new ecology, its amusing stools covered with scraps of two towers of the Bosco Verticale Rubelli, and the Wunderkammer Studio with appear with their 23 and 16 floors. its futuristic iron furniture, wood and polished aluminium. Predisposed to come into contact Opposite at number 11, it is fun to browse with large amounts of air and light, among fake jewellery made with fabric, resin, with their trees (900 species of trees recovered buttons in a small workshop, high up to 8 meters) they contribute L’Arzigogolo. Shoe lovers will find a wide selection from all over the world at number 3, to building a microclimate and Lift Shopping Spirit, a store-lounge where you filtering fine particles present in the can sip a tea or drink in a relaxing and home urban environment environment.

In Borsieri Street at number 4A, there is the historical “FIAB Ciclobby” association, a lobby of urban cyclists that has been promoting for decades the use of bicycles as a daily means of transportation. Under the “no pollution, no noise, no space.” We might add that it’s fun and makes you save time. (www.ciclobby.it) At number 26, every Saturday, from 9:00 to 17:00, there is an appointment with the “Bio Verziere”, organised by AIAB organic market, where the manufacturer sells directly to the consumer, favours biodiversity and environmental protection. (www. aiablombardia.it) Bosco Verticale

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In the period of New Romanticism, aimed at recovering the primordial nature, lush plants surround architectural artefacts, with natural ease as the moss does on the rocks. Apparently, in fact, because here everything is subtended by detailed studies on the choice of plants and their placement. It is a successful project and in tune with the deepest contemporary needs, if you think that the Bosco Verticale, with its “Green Wall”, won the International High-rise Award, first among 800 competitors worldwide. A nice shot! But only the beginning of a dream of a better life, because the lungs of the entire area was thought to be a huge park of the future where there is already a pedestrian path running through it, connecting De Castillia Street with Gae Aulenti Square.

Bosco Verticale

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At number 28 in De Castillia Street lies an interesting building of industrial architecture, headquarter of the Foundation Riccardo Catella. Born as a railway warehouse, it was used in the ‘900 as a movie set and art workshop. Now, hive of cultural initiatives, it is a meeting place with bocce courts and even a restaurant (www. ratana.it). Going through the bike path, leaving Via De Castillia on the left, beyond the roundabout, you reach the final stage of the route. The complex construction

of the Lombardia Palace, built and designed by Pei Cobb Freed & Partners in New York, in the fully pedestrianised area between Restelli, Galvani, Algarotti and Gioia Streets, consists of four buildings with a sinusoidal shape and a 39-story tower made by concrete, steel and glass, awarded for design, innovation and sustainability by the Council of Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat in Chicago as best European Skyscraper of the year 2012.

Lombardia Palace

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At the centre, completely covered lakes, and you may appreciate by transparent plastic, you find the the beautiful natural skyline big square of Città di Lombardia “live”, taking on Sundays the with a curious high-arched shape. “supersonic” elevator up to the 39th floor where you can enjoy It appears flanked by two others, a beautiful and breathtaking view open towards Pola and Gioia of the City and the mountains. Streets. Interesting and mysterious at first glance, the installation with flower beds, hills, lakes and towering boulders is meant to symbolise the Alps with its

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Secret and Mysterious Milan

Biking around in the heart of Milan and discover curiosities and details that often go unnoticed in everyday’s life, filled with wonder even to the authentic Milanese citizens, often too busy to enjoy the pleasures of the slow-sight. The aim of this itinerary is therefore to enhance the Milan hidden or forgotten and pay attention to the little known artistic and historical events, revive it in all its complex authenticity.

7 km

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The Cathedral as you’ve never seen it before!

The skyline of the Duomo to Polybius writing, housed a (Cathedral) is familiar with its 135 temple where the Insubri hold their spires and 3288 statues, both signs and symbols. internal and external, some curious After the consul Marcellus in and not necessarily inspiring 225 had conquered the city and mystical as you might imagine. sacrificed on the altars young The area seems to have been defenders, the temple was considered sacred already 25 dedicated to Minerva. centuries ago because, according

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With time there was built the San Giovanni alle Fonti where, is early-Christian Santa Tecla’s handed down, the 387th Easter church, whose surviving portions, day when Saint Ambrose baptized found through excavations, can Saint Augustine. be visited in the basement of the The actual size of this sacred churchyard, next to the remains place can be deciphered in the of the octagonal Baptistery of lines, at first glance mysterious, visibly etched in the pavement outside the churchyard.

Duomo

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The construction of the Cathedral, Biscione which lasted more than four hundred years, recognized as the ‘never finished’ work, from the expression of Milan “La fabbrica del Domm”, curiously reflects the various construction periods, especially in the diversity of fantastic decorations and symbols. It can range from the scene depicted in the right lower part of the recent front door, where is foreshadowed one of the legends that reveal the origin of statue placed on the balcony the Visconti emblem, derived from above the central entrance that the shield of dark Voluce killed by seems to have inspired the Ottone Visconti during the First Statue of Liberty in New York, Crusade, to “La legge nuova (The from depictions of funny faces or new law)”, the nineteenth century caricatures of animals’ muzzles that run along the base of the cathedral, the statue dedicated to a San non-existent Napoleon, in homage to the Course that just in front of the Cathedral was self crowned placing on his head the Iron Crowned, full of “God gave it to me, woe betide anyone who touches it.” The statue, at the top right corner of the window, at the third buttress towards the Royal Palace, is recognizable by the folded arms and arrogant attitude, almost defiantly.

The New Law

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Galleria Leaving the Duomo, bicycle in hands, you enter Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, made lavish, in view of Expo 2015, the recent restorations operated thanks to the brands Feltrinelli, Prada and Versace, the lounge patrons in the heart of Milan. It will be for the wonderful mosaic pavement, it will be for the lighting, it will be for the chromatic harmony of the shop signs, all, absolutely all, strictly in gold on a black background, but there lingers a living party atmosphere of other times. Neither secret nor mysterious is the custom, now international heritage, which has targeted the emblem of the city of Turin, or rather the “jewels” of the bull on the ground. It is frequently noted in the short arm of the gallery that brings to Via Silvio Pellico, a group of tourists who, arrayed in a circle like a tribal ritual, performing festive, in turn, in the fateful pirouette luck. In fact even if the bull has now been brutally castrated, rooted tradition, continues inexorably.

Jewels of the bull

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Bas-relief in Agnello Street

In the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is worth taking a look at two local historians of Italy and perceive yourself first-hand in the atmosphere of yesteryear, marked by solid traditions. From 1867 is the Campari no, Who, now in Via Agnello, asks at the entrance to the gallery, where it comes from that name, where among exquisitely looking up above the door of Liberty chandeliers of the artist number 19, will find the answer in Mazzucotelli and mosaics of D’Andrea, you can enjoy the a small relief depicting precisely Bitter that inspired the famous the docile animal. posters of the time, now looked Almost a street sign, you think, like works of art (www.caffemiani. it). as the head of the wolf near Via Lupetta, more than a tribute Coeval, inside the gallery, in the symbolizing the religious’ “Agnus right arm, which goes in Foscolo Street, restaurant / cafe, Savini, Dei”. whose elegant dining rooms have hosted Puccini, Mascagni and Verdi, is still elite meeting point for after Scala drinks and beyond (www.savinimilano.it).

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Sciur Carera’s history

They call him the man of stone Sciur Carera or better Sciur Carera, but it is a marble relief of the third century, moved several times and now anachronistically “parked” under the arcades of Corso Vittorio Emanuele at number 13, in correspondence of a modern building. Without arms but with a rich drapery toga, of the tenth century, completed with a head styled typical of medieval ecclesiastical, had been recycled as an archbishop. In the nineteenth century had well- served features of the Roman Pasquino of which were written and posted satirical tickets. In 1848 by a notice that advertised “the strike of cigars” to the detriment of the Habsburg monopoly, even gave rise to the 5 Giornate (Five Days) of Milan. Other symbol site of the after shows is the Santa Lucia in San Pietro The name of Sciur Carera derived all’Orto Street, with walls literally from “Carere...” the beginning of papered with dedications from at a sentence Cicero carved at its least 400 portraits of famous people, base, which in Italian sounds, attracted, since 1929, by the equally “Must be free of any fault those famous Neapolitan cuisine (www. asantalucia.it). who are ready to criticize others.” A nice way to silence many blah, blah blah.

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Walk of Fame

Heading towards the Verziere, or the Archbishop’s garden, the area where there was a rich fruits and vegetables’ market, you pass Largo Corsia dei Servi, a dimly lit hallway with a little passage, Bianchi Café is a fresh and despite being a few steps from dynamic site for those who love the Duomo. the two wheels. In addition to Looking down at the sides, at the food and wine houses holds a number 21 you see handprints, showroom and a workshop. Here footprints and signatures, made in cyclists, or simply curious, can the course of twenty years, from discover patterns signed Bianchi. 1984 to 2004, a sort of “Walk of www.bianchicafecycles.it Fame” as in Hollywood in a minor, little valued and then forgotten, even if it includes people linked to the world of entertainment such as Sharon Stone, Sylvester Stallone, rather than Francis Ford Coppola.

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S.Bernardino alle Ossa

The name of the medieval Church thousands of skulls and human San Bernardino alle Ossa guesses bones caged by networks of its contents. Wanted by the iron henhouse. In counterpoint to secular Disciplines movement that, this macabre atmosphere and to dedicated to the worship of the redeem the horror, the frescoes dead, practiced self-flagellation by Sebastiano Ricci describing to atone for sins, the church the “Triumph of souls among the contains a chapel, accessed angels”, introduces a colourful along a narrow tunnel on the note, almost solar. right. There are enclosed, well aligned, mostly to form crosses,

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Ufo’s eat? Here is explained the arcano

Larghetto Street takes its name and ancient science, here is from the small lake fed from the a mystical note. The one feet internal network of canals, created tall votive that the abbot of the in 1438 to accommodate the corporation of the Carbonari had barges from Lake Maggiore who put up thanking the Assumption unloaded the Candogli marble and still stands on one side of the other materials for the building of house, well after four centuries. the Cathedral. Interesting is the lower part of the painting where it is still possible to Gian Galeazzo Visconti, indicating distinguish an ancient depiction of that these vessels were not the Lazaretto. subject to tolls; he did enter the symbol AUF (Ad Usum Fabricae) that has remained our expression “for free”, that is to latch without payment. The old building at number 2 has to its name “la cà dei Tencitt” that is the home of the blacks, the dirty, to the fact that in addition to the porters, housed coal transporters and their families. It was considered a rough area and when the last plague, which had wreaked havoc across Milan, had spared, right-thinking people had given immunity to the presence of powerful witches, not to the deprecated layer of coal dust that in all likelihood, for his absorbent property, had prevented the disease from spreading. But that’s another story. After superstition Ex voto in Ca’ dei Tencitt

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Within the ancient and mysterious argues that the effluvia of his names of streets that has lost their workshops would attract insects, meaning is the Vicolo delle Mosche the more educated would relate (The Flies Alley), the transition now to cantharides based medicine, incorporated in the building that called “Flies of Milan”, used as an faces the Duomo. ancient, dangerous Viagra and probably prepared in the alley by Great attempt to hazard a an apothecary who, forerunner of guess. From the most banal that our rampant publicity, advertised “Omo sano cò le mosche de Melano (Healthy man with the Flies of Milan)”.

the Flies Alley

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Mediolanum was a half-wolly sow!

Out of any discussion is rather Floor Panigarola House clear etymology that the Streets Safari, Armorari, Orefici, Speronari, Cappellari gravitate around Piazza dei Mercanti, antique mall and administration of justice. Here, where there is now the sixteenth- century well, was once located the elusive “Pietra dei Falliti” (Stone of the Failed) on which, who was accused of fraudulent bankruptcy had to sit without pants, exposed to public ridicule, while the “Parlera” on the first floor of the fourteenth- west side, on the ground floor of century Osii palace, located along the Panigarola house, also known the south side, there were sold the as the Notaries Palace, you Failed goods at auction. On the can see a curious floor made of rounded pebbles that give shape to two serpents / dragons whose turns ringed will cover almost completely the surface. To the north, on the façade of the Palazzo Della Ragione or New Broletto, built in 1233 by the mayor Oldrado from Tresseno stands a dedicated low-relief on the grounds to whom had solved the Cathars heresy. Macabre merits were considered that did not act on the wings of persuasion but that he simply burn them, summarily, in large numbers. Osii Palace

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Oldrado da Tresseno On the front side of the building and precisely above the capital of the second arc, stands a small low-relief of the Roman times passing mostly unnoticed. It actually embodies one of the 26 hypotheses about the origin of the name of Milan. Represents, in fact, a half-woolly sow, that hairy just in front of the body (medium lignum) that was first dreamed and then recognized on site from the Celtic Belloveso, legendary founder of Milan. In the porch of the New Broletto, open on all sides with large arches, is fun to experience the mystical world of the echo, speaking softly at a pillar on one side you can exchange messages with another person placed near another pillar in diametrically opposite position. It seems it was the trick used by ancient traders to communicate with each other without being noticed.

Medium Lignum

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Curiosities of Piazza della Scala in Milan

Passing through Piazza della Scala torn down the church of Santa is worth to recall some curiosity, Maria Della Scala, built in 1381 by one is the origin of the mystical Bernabò Visconti in honor to, in name of the theatre, built in 1776 fact, his wife Regina della Scala. in the place where it had been

43 Secret and Mysterious Milan

Another concerns the porch of the Leonardo da Vinci theatre with flooring in large slabs of grey granite on which passed the carriages of noblemen or at least rich music fans who came to the show, this way protects from weather and takes them directly into the hall inside, without soaking their shoes. The entrance and exit of the porch, there are still two small wayside places to safeguard the integrity of the pillars by the impact of the wheel hubs. Another curiosity relates to the imposing statue placed in the centre of the square, where once stood the old and dilapidated houses. Depicts Leonardo da Vinci, surrounded on either side by the rigid figures of four of his disciples. The scene had not left the Milanese indifferent, used to give nicknames to everyone and everything, with witty bonhomie. In this case it was the turn of “Elliter in quarter”, which means “A litre for four”, coined by Giuseppe Romani, representative of the Scapigliatura movement, who, it was said, had good familiarity with alcohol.

44 Secret and Mysterious Milan

Manzoni House

Passing through Piazza Belgioioso, on the left you can see the elaborate decorations in brick façade inspired by the architecture of the Lombard Renaissance and wanted by Alessandro Manzoni, botany enthusiast in the palace with a romantic garden, who lived for over sixty years. It is said that in the interior, simple and elegant, were made magnetic experiments and séances, practices introduced by the second wife’s son, Stefano Stamp, fond of that hobby in vogue at those times. Belgioioso Square

45 Secret and Mysterious Milan

Omenoni House

named by the Milanese for the The numbers that can be seen eight Talamoni, huge statues that carved into the entrance of the decorate the façade of the late old houses in the old town do Renaissance and which seem not denote the dating, as one even more impressive by the might venture, but indicate the street narrowness. It is difficult to progressive house numbering. say whom they want to represent, Introduced by Austrian domination however, behind the head of six Empress Maria Theresa of of them, reads the name of an Austria started from the Royal ancient conquered population. Palace, bearing the number 1 and A strange house that had attracted continued in a circular spiral to the attention of the Vasari because the borders corresponding to the “full of fantastic inventions,” Spanish walls. disconcerting as the character The number supported by an that built and lived, Leone Leoni, alphabetical letter indicated sculptor and goldsmith from life buildings constructed in a second daring. Despite poisons, torture time. This numbering system called, and stab wounds were on the precisely, Teresian is still in use in agenda for him, he always the city of Venice. This explains the managed to save his skin. Charles riddle of the number 1722 affixed V and Philip II had protected him in on top of the door of the sixteenth- extremis, not wanting to risk losing century House of Omenoni, so their valuable craftsman / artist.

46 Secret and Mysterious Milan

Violent, but art lover, in his home S.Balila Square in Milan had amassed a collection of works by Tiziano, Leonardo, Raphael, of the Carracci and his friend Michelangelo. Even now that the interiors, renovated in 1929 by Pietro Portaluppi, hosting a historic men’s club, not open to the public, the façade at the top, just under the eaves, shows a disturbing stone relief, with his allegorical signature, where a satyr, overshadowing slander, is mauled, incidentally, by two lions. Another lion, not aggressive, but crouched on a high column as a tame cat, is in Piazza San Babila, right in front of the church. Ancient emblem of the district, it is elevated to that position since 1650, when the then roads’ magistrate, Count Carlo Serbelloni, to defend it from Hooligans, distanced it from the ground, inserting a column Cà de l’orègia between the lion and the base. In Serbelloni Street at number 19, to the right of home Sola- Busca, Art Nouveau building of 1930, nicknamed “Cà de l’Oregia”, appears in all its perfection a and modernity, talking in a huge marble ear, work of Adolfo great pavilion auricle you could Wild, author of various sculptures communicate with the inside, as in luxury homes in the area. in a kind of intercom. Surprising Just to give a touch of mystery news for those times!

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Milan and the pink flamingos

Flamingos

Passing by Cappuccini Street, where at number 3 is located Villa Invernizzi, it is worth a peek into the garden and surprise a family of pink flamingos in flesh, bones ... and feathers, perfectly settled in and careless of curious passers- by.

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Oberdan Square

In Piazza Overdan, towards Via Vittorio Veneto, towering two columns at the underlying Day Hotel Venezia, where between 1925 and 1950, accessible to The column towards Corso Milanesi and outsiders, there were Buenos Aires was none other popular and luxurious bathrooms, than the chimney of the heating shower cubicles, wardrobe, boiler, camouflaged. The other, ironing, bike storage and even a in full, had been erected just for bank. symmetry.

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Lazzaretto, well described by Manzoni in chapter XXXI of the Promessi Sposi, little remains. It consisted of a vast quadrangle whose centre consisted of a church open on the eight sides to allow all plague victims to assist from afar to religious functions that were celebrated. The church now closed for renovations, is dedicated to St. Charles Borrowed who built it in 1585. Proceeding in Via San Gregorio, up to number 5, you can understand how it was that the porch perimeter, closed externally by a wall with windows, gave shelter; actually open air, to the plague victims. The small part that remains at NE, after the demolition of the late nineteenth century, retains ten original arches and five chimneys on the roof. The moat that is seen outside is part of the ancient “fountain of health”.

The ancient Pharmacia di Lazaretto in 29 Castaldi Street is really old, going back to 1750. From the beginning of the last century, Amaro Giuliani, the owner, had created a drink to offer to his loyal clients. The Amaro drink became famous and was then marketed.

Lazzaretto

50 Secret and Mysterious Milan

And finally…

Renzo

Under recovery, some columns of the Lazaretto, during demolition, were saved and placed in the courtyard of the mysterious Palazzo Luraschi in Buenos impressive temple dedicated to Aires at number 1. To make an the Promessi Sposi, contributes 12 busts depicting the characters that seem to look at who comes in from above, as from a balcony.

Lucia

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Glancing at suggestive cloisters, emotion that Stendhal suggested courtyards or patios hidden by of Milan defining the city with doors or deleted by the buildings the most beautiful courtyards of façades, often depleted, you can Europe. To be discovered. notice views with statues, fountains, arcades, columns, gardens which inspire awe and that discovery

52 INDEX

Liberty in Milan

A bicycle, in a city like Milan, offers the opportunity to discover extraordinary architectural beauties. Palaces, friezes, aquariums, plant motifs, wrought-iron railings are the main characters of a journey that will take you to discover a Liberty City. In some places it will be necessary to carry your bike in hands to be able to go in the opposite lanes enjoying, with your nose up, their beauty.

8 km

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55 Liberty in Milan

Brief History

A hundred years ago or so, it was a special moment for Milan, as always when change does not turn into crisis, but in potential. Opportunities that the city then had been able to greatly grasp, opening up to Europe and optimising the new input of creativity and artistic sense inherent in its DNA. To grow and share. Our ancestors had understood. Burying under fear, resentment or distrust their talents was considered an useless waste of energy. Between the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, as part of a huge urban transformation, giving a more modern style, the city’s look was changing and the Liberty European fashion was playing a good role, which also spread all around Italy with general enthusiasm. A return to basics if you think that the name comes from the London warehouses of Arthur Liberty which exhibited art objects and fabrics of Art Nouveau, daughter of the English Pre-Raphaelites that, with Dante Gabriel Rossetti, http://lenews.info/2014/06/18/ofelia/ were inspired by Italian art that preceded Raphael.

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A lost time atmosphere

Sinuous decors of strong graphic They became the symbol of style, stylised plant motifs, masks, a desired triumph of freedom beautiful reflections of stained and fantasy, embodying life glass. Wrought iron inspired by a choices in the name of a positive, lush, untamed primordial nature. confident potential as opposed Houses dressed in bright colours to the prevailing static nature of of majolica decorations that seem classicism and academicism. to reflect the voluptuous Belle Epoque atmosphere.

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Liberty in Milan

Aquarium Gadio Street city. Reaching, as in a magical spider web the various sites and moving from one to another by knights errant, riding his steel horse, it is possible to relive the atmosphere of the past, recreated as if by magic. And by looking around, relating it with the life that takes place now.

Architects and artists- artisans involved in the world of ‘’new art” had a wide scope to build entire neighbourhoods, backed by not only aristocratic clients, but consisted, for the most part, from an emerging cultured middle class, bowled by new ideals, not only aesthetic. You could touch economic and social changes, transfused in fascinating buildings that have given an alluring dimension to the

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More than a thousand buildings, Bellini Street which share some stylistic elements, appear sophisticated or simple, but always different from each other in an endless variety distributed through oil spots within centre and periphery, from large office buildings, residential districts, up to industrial plants. The idea is to report an itinerary that touches some exemplary buildings and allow a ‘hide and seek’ personal discovery of others. In reality, there is often a fancy mingling with Eclecticism, or recovery of previous styles, accentuated in the early days with Decò, that, in the later period, can be recognised by the lines stiffening.

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Bike in hands and nose up... Let’s go!

At Liberty, a short walk from the 1904, and dismembered as a result Cathedral, it was dedicated a of war damage. Now tall pilasters square dominated by a palace mark the floor of the façade, that looks white like cotton candy. decorated with French monsters and floral ornaments. High up It is the rationalist Reale Mutua at the large semicircle windows, Assicurazioni Palace of which there are proudly displayed three it was reassembled the façade giant pairs of cherubs that give of the luxurious Corso Hotel additional grandeur to the building. in 15 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, built by architects Cattaneo and Santamaria between 1902 and

Liberty Square

61 Liberty in Milan

Built in 47/49 Corso Venezia, in the back in evidence, so much that middle of a prerogative street and Castiglioni Palace, named after populated by sober Neoclassical the rich owner who had wanted palaces, the first Art Nouveau to launch the challenge, was building in Milan (1901/1904), has immediately called the Cà of Ciapp had a disruptive effect, not so much (the Bumps’ House). for the asymmetry of the façade, The same architect Giuseppe with a single balcony to the right, Sommaruga, annoyed by the for the use of rustication crude criticism and irony of well-meaning that takes the natural shapes of and not, eventually confined the the rock, for the severe facade of two figures, that were supposed monumental dimensions, for full- to represent Peace and Industry, bodied porthole windows closed in the back of a villa designed by by interlacing wrought iron or for him, now the Columbus Clinic in the profusion of large putties, but Buonarroti Street, where they still especially for the two statues, the are in a tight angle. work of Ernesto Bazzaro, which portrayed women almost giving their back with their powerful bass

Castiglioni Palace

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Three liberty jewels

From Corso Venezia it is worth However, beautifully dark in every to make a small detour to take small detail is the third one that a look at three houses built by appears in all its shocking majesty one of the greatest exponents in 8 Cappuccini Street, at the of the Milanese Liberty, architect. corner with Vivaio Street. Giulio Ulisse Arata, for the same family, the Berri Meregalli, in the block between Sebelloni Street, Mozart Street, Barozzi Street and Cappuccini Street. In the first, at 7 Barozzi Street, dating back to 1910, the powerful structure appears softened by animal-heads, distributed with profusion, at the windows frames and in support of the balconies balustrades. In the second, made a year later in 21 Mozart Street, it was the turn of gigantic monstrous rams’ heads that, by implementing the philosophy of those times to combine aesthetics with practicality, are used as gutters. They have an aesthetic function instead, the two figures, painted with solar shades of plaster, at the central balcony, that stand out on the coated tiles of different sizes.

Berri Meregalli House

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Commissioned in 1911, but borrowed from a vast medieval completed only in 1915, unlike bestiary and the inevitable huge many other buildings inspired by cherubs, this time dangerously Liberty which thanks to mass clinging to downspouts. production had brought art to Who has time to cast a look inside, everyone, it is definitely a house in the foyer, dramatically stunning, for the rich. will be surprised to see at the end, Embodies, in fact, the best that the in a central position, protected as superior craftsmanship could offer: a precious treasure between the D’Andrea’s mosaics, Rimoldi’s ceiling and the mosaic floor, an painted figures, from Prendoni enigmatic sculpture of Adolfo Wildt and Calegari’s external sculptures representing the Winged Victory, to unparalleled Mazzucotelli’s 1919, with its already Futurist wrought iron. imprint. A mixture of natural and manmade stone, of high and low concrete reliefs, of gold mosaics, alabaster and red brick, with subjects

Berri Meregalli Palace

64 Liberty in Milan

At Porta Venezia, at 42 Piave Galimberti House Avenue appears another corner building, austere and majestic but not so disturbing. It is the former Kursaal Diana. Built in 1907 by architect Achille Manfredini, with a French mansard roof, contained large pools and a theatre later destroyed by bombing. The restoration carried

out in 1926 by the architect Giuseppe De Finetti, transformed the building into a luxury hotel, now Hotel Diana Majestic entrance that still retains a superb original wrought iron chandelier. Appetisers are wonderful in the charming garden with an arbour and mature trees.

65 Liberty in Milan

Eco friendly village in Belle Epoque style

Behind, a bit removed from the they want to be a colourful hymn streets of big traffic, a picturesque to nature’s freedom. At number district created in an area 12, built by the same architect previously occupied by stables between 1904 and 1906, there is that housed horses intended to Guazzoni House, named after the tow the omnibus and discontinued owner, master builder who carried with the advent of electric trams, out the work. it has a high concentration of The chiaroscuro (light-dark) of buildings which follow the the new the volumes is here played on fashion dictate, high aesthetic level the plasticity of wrought iron and of Liberty. Starting from Galimberti cement, moulded into shapes of House, in 3 Malpighi Street, built female heads, cherubs and plants between 1902 and 1905 by the foliage, with intertwined flowers. architect. Giovan Battista Bossi that draws the colours of two-dimensional figurative ceramic tiles, floral motifs in concrete and twisted wrought iron, the latter made by the firm Arcari and Ajay. As in buildings Lavirotte and Klein in Paris, painted tiles that line to 170 square meters the three sides of the building had to fulfil the practical purpose of helping to maintain it clean. Ceramic tiles, already cooked and painted, were painted and cooked yet another time before being applied as a mosaic. A great deal of male and female figures, in a tangle of lush vines echoed the ideas of iron and cement plants, Galimberti House

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ex cinema Dumont

To complete the spectacular view of Malpighi Street, just down the road, on the square, at 2 Frisi The area of Malpighi Street and Street, dominates the façade surroundings is a “village in the city” of the former cinema Dumont, characterised by its ecological touch graced with flowers and ribbons and sophistication. To be discovered: in concrete and a woman’s head Eating at Mimmo, 34 Sirtori Street, that dominates the top tympani. also appreciated for its atmosphere. The building created in 1905 by Sleep at Locanda del Pino, cozy B & the architects Tettamanzi and B in 28 Melzo Street. Mainetti to accommodate over Browse among the jewels of “Anthozoa”, 500 spectators, now contains the in 7 Malpighi Strret, between the teas Venice Library, cultural hub of the of “La Teiera Ecclettica” in 30 Melzo neighbourhood. Street, among the scents from all over the world of “British Book” on the same A district with scenes from Belle street at n. 34. Epoque, has gradually developed a connotation of eco-friendly Reserved to the real ecologists: “La animated by fil rouge of respect Città del Sole” for those who love to play and Naturasì, the famous for the environment. In its streets Supermarket. on a human scale, not surprisingly almost without traffic, it breathes There’s also the Brompton Junction a cheerful atmosphere that seems shop, highly popular, where you find to want to project from the past in pocket bikes or nearly so. a happy future.

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The risorgimento heroes

The path continues in an area with Cambiaghi House streets and squares dedicated to the Italian Risorgimento heroes, i.e. Bixio, Fratelli Bandiera and Pisacane just to name a few. On these streets, in fact, one is struck by an incredible row of Liberty palaces, deployed on the side of the even numbers, 12- 20, in front of a low newer building that houses a school. Built in the early years of the century, they are surprising for the continuity of the architectural design and the restrained elegance of the decorations formed from time to time by refined forms of concrete on the framing of windows or doors, by delicate floral motifs or wrought iron worked with such delicacy to look like laces.

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Campanini House

There are even the amazing wrought iron by Mazzucotelli. Two Junoesque female figures in cement designed by Michele At 11 Bellini Street, the arch. Alfredo Vedani on both sides of the Campanini designed his house, entrance, unlike those created by precisely Campanini House. One Bazzaro in Palazzo Castiglioni, did may think that he was free to give not cause any scandal, perhaps the best of himself since he did for the hidden position of the not have to come to terms with building which lies in a tight angle, clients. and still stand in the same place. Furthermore, it was built in 1906, the same year of the World Expo, that helped to launch activities, whether or not from craftsmanship, in an atmosphere of general enthusiasm for the potential that the innovations could bring. The building is, in fact, a masterpiece of elegance and balance of solid and void, with successful patterns of architecture and applied art, floral inserts on cement plaster in delicate light green, stained glass, painted bands. Campanini House’s gate

69 Liberty in Milan

Built in 1902, at number 8, one can find the interesting building constructed by Bonomi in Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The use of iron and glass reminds contemporary overseas or Anglo-Saxon buildings.

Here the iron sight not only For those wishing to experience performs the function of supporting the thrill of living in a historic Liberty structure, but becomes a refined Palace, you can choose the ornament with protruding volumes, “Celebrity Top Suite” http://adtoday. arabesque and fancy shapes it/vivere-un-sogno/ within “The- Place, Luxuryaccommodations”. while the large windows give the building a sense of lightness. The current building’s interiors were designed by architects John and Lorenzo Muzio, who also built the building next to it in 1963 to complete the block.

Vittorio Emanuele Street

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Made in 1903 in real Liberty energy to the inertia of the metal style, the Ferrario House was with his imaginative work. constructed in 3/5 Spadari Street At number 9 of this ancient road, by Arch. Ernesto Pirovano. that, like many other of the centre The simplicity of the building of Milan, takes its name from what appears modified by the rhythms once took place there, is “Casa of the horizontal deck with Peck” (Peck House) with its Liberty three balconies and columns decorations that seem in tune with and supported by corbels in the buildings that precede in a the shape of a griffin, which homogeneous architectural street. appears ennobled by the tunnels of Alessandro Mazzuccotelli, the most famous craftsman of wrought iron, who also seems to have the ability Spadari Street, Casa Peck. At the to impart motion and lower floors, there is still a historical store of gastronomic delights, a forerunner of passion for quality food, praised even by Gabriele D’Annunzio.

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The liberty style aquarium of expo 1906

What cannot be missed along the route of the bike path is the Civic Connected through a winding bike Aquarium in 2 Gadio Street. path, there is Corso Garibaldi. For The building was opened in 1906 long pedestrian stretches, definitely “bike friendly” for the presence of for the Universal EXPO in Milan, Rossignoli, the historic store that, at a time when Milan spent great among other things, provides DIY means to prove its modernity and service to inflate tires. success. Eating: at n. 26, “Re di Coppe e Here was the stand dedicated Piatti” offers exquisite Sicilian cuisine to fish farming that the arch. at reasonable prices http://www. saporinews.com/2014/05/sapori-e- Sebastiano Locati had built atmosfere-di-sicilia-da-re-di-coppe- between the Castle and the piatti Sempione Park. Pick into n. 44, for South African It is one of the top aquariums products and wines, do a little gym in the world, certainly of great at n. 50 in Centroara, specialised in impact with concrete inserts made Pilates, just to pleasantly relax your contracted muscles. by the Chini Company, ceramic friezes and the fountain with an hippopotamus head, dominated by an imposing Neptune. Among aquatic plants, fast goldfish quiver in the water, unaware witnesses in a historic setting.

Aquarium Gadio Street

72 INDEX

Martesana Canal

This route, even if part of one of the landmarks of modern Milan, the San Marco area with its skyscrapers, follows a path that has more than 500 years, that sinuous unravels the busy streets of Milan, up to the Adda river, through the then 16th century MARTESANA county. We’ll talk just about that history and what is currently living along the banks of the MARTESANA CANAL. The route is flat and spreads for 36 km. At the end you can decide whether to go back on a bike or with a comfortable train.

39 km

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75 Martesana Canal

A bit of History

In 1457 Francesco Sforza, wished Adda which Leonardo built the to build a canal, which from the San Marco’s basin. castle of Trezzo mounted up in To one side, two closed hatches the heart of the city of Milan, to for regulating the inflow and outflow give a boost to navigation in the of sailing water, and on the other Padana Valley, already crossed side water flowed unimpeded to over the centuries by the boats provide motive power for crafts. of the Etruscans and then the Romans, experts at creating Downstream from where waters artificial channels to complement were joined together to fall, then, the many natural waterways.In in the wide expanse of water that 1496 Ludovico il Moro, to complete covered the width of San Marco the connections, asked Leonardo where today are located the car da Vinci to join the waters of the parks. Martesana with those of the Navigli Milanesi internal trench. It was to overcome the height difference of the waters between Ticino and

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From the city centre, following up the canal’s waters, on barges pulled by horses, it would be achieved, centuries later, the villas built on the banks, often places for kings or emperors like Maria Teresa of Austria or Napoleon to stay in. Navigation on the Martesana would end with the coverage of the ring of canals, which began around 1930 and ended in the 60s, when it was downgraded from transport channel in an

irrigation canal. The Martesana’s path, in 1497, measured 38 kilometers and 721 meters from the incile to the Tombone of San Marco, consisted of 28 bridges, four basins for navigation and many mouths for irrigation. It can be better understood by following the cycle path, going opposite the trend, it also seems to take us back in time.

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Martesana Canal

Let’s Start!

The route of the cycle path remains of old mills and green begins in San Marco street with oasis, as the recent Greco the Tombone, painted in dark garden, surpassing succession of colours from the Scapigliatura villas that overlook the water, such Milanese movement, continues as those of the “Crescenzago’s north, with the famous Conca and Riviera Milanese” or steeples of the customs and passes under churches and “courtyard houses”. the Ponte delle Gabelle (Bridge of Taxes), to exit in Melchiorre Gioia Street, and from here continues towards the north all the way from

Melchiorre Gioia until Martesana’s El Tombon de San Marc, historic bar/res- waters reappear at Casina de taurant in Milan at the corner of San Mar- Pomm or de Pomi. co Street and Montebello Street, ideal for drinks and dinner with friends The cycle path begins to follow the path of the canal with gentle Pasticceria Martesana - 14 Cagliero Street. Open daily from 7.30 to 20.30. curves, between neighbourhoods www.particceriamartesana.com with distinctive working-class The pastry’s chef Davide Comaschi is a winner of the chocolatiers’ world champi- onship.

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follows the path of the water, untangles between Greco and Gorla in an easterly direction to Padova Avenue. If the canal is the water for the gardens, the cycle path is the air for those who survive in the city: Sunday cyclists for the trip out of town, daily cyclists who go to work; mothers with children, youngsters with dogs, breathless joggers. All together and everyone for themselves here there is room for everyone, as you reach the intersection at Padova Avenue, at the home of the Alpini di Crescenzago, then turn left at Idro Street until you cross the Lambro.

And it is at the Cascina de Pomm, that on December 13th , 1986, a group of riders led by Luigi Riccardi met to free what would become the Martesana bike lane from the brambles that obstructed it. It was on that day, thanks to the efforts of Riccardi, founder of Ciclobby and later president of FIAB, that the bike lane that we Home to one of the Italy’s most are describing opened. famous cabaret: The Zelig.

In 2014 the bike lane was entitled www.areazelig.it to his name as a sign of respect 140 Monza Avenue, Milan for his efforts on promoting the 02.2551774 use of bicycles. In the first part, the cycle path

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Where the countryside begins

After about 6 km from the start, Milanese aristocratic villas: Villa we will get to Cologno Monzese Cazzaniga and Villa Alari Visconti, and then to Vimodrone where the towards Cernusco, eighteenth- path runs alongside the meadows century “Villa di delizia (Villa of with playgrounds and farmsteads. delight)” described in the ‘700 by Pietro Verri, and then climbing up The grounds are wider, reviewing will meet Villa Borromeo and Villa the mountains on the horizon and Melzi, where Leonardo da Vinci is perceived to be the beginning lived. He studied, painted and of a journey that is also in the designed the canal. Lombardy history and culture. From the other side of the waterway are reflected the

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After Bussero and Cassina de Pecchi, you enter Gorgonzola, In Gorgonzola there is a lovely restaurant terrace on the Naviglio “The Stazionetta”, about 15 km from the start, accessible through a pedestrian bridge, where in addition to the Villa Sola put there just as we do not need to resist Busca Serbelloni and the adjoining to our stomach attentions, especially at lunchtime. garden, the track narrows right in front of a curious wooden building, www.lastazionetta.it overlooking the canal as a bridge Open Monday to Friday from 6:00 to but it is closed as a house, with 20:00 (breakfast and lunch). windows and internal living rooms Saturdays 6:00 to 00:00 (breakfast, and connecting Busca Street with lunch and dinner). a private condominium. Closed: Sundays 8.30 until after lunch (breakfast and lunch) The curiosity to seek access to ... By popular demand it may open every the building leads to discover a Sunday. beautiful mosaic of the Madonna Summer closure: 9th to 24th of August. Reopening: 25th of August. and Child. Just a few tens of meters to the left, it’s worth taking a look at the old mills.

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Soon after Gorgonzola, Villa Fornaci, Bellinzago and then In Cassano, where we will have accu- Inzago, (nearly 24 km from the mulated a route of about 27 km, here’s start) are immediately recognizable another dining venue that deserves our for the spire of the octagonal tower attention: it is “Il Buco (The Hole)”, tavern in Groppello. Behind the counter the kind of Villa Aitelli Vitali. At Cassano, lady Teresa ensures that the restaurant in a place called “La Volta”, the keeps faith to its dedicated kitchen and Martesana curves north, to bathe cooks frogs, fish and snails. first Groppello, with the basin, and 50 Fara Street, Cassano d’Adda. Ruotone, and then Vaprio. 0363 64998

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Biking along the waterway

After Groppello, about one kilometre from Casino, the path becomes so scarily pretty. Rough, From Vaprio, crossing the Adda without banks and without lights, on a wooden walkway, built by and even of the natural very little Cristoforo Crespi, you can make filters. a digression to Crespi d’Adda, to see the old factory town. It is on the left along the waterway and on the right a few meters from the Addax. It’s the north of the Adda’s park: much of it is forest not grass, Ideal to get there at lunchtime and eat humidity, smells of plants and while watching the slow flow of the Adda. animal sounds. But also silence. 4 Libertà Square, Canonica d’Adda (BG) Phone: 02.9094048 Few kilometres and a few people www.terrazzamanzotti.it after you get to Vaprio d’Adda.

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The current latest incile of the between the river and the canal Martesana is Concesa. The and who collected payments. But original is more forward in Trezzo this is also a point of view of a d’Adda, an outcropping rock certain beauty that inspired among still clearly visible from the bike others Bernardo Bellotto for “four path that continues along the views of Vaprio and Canonica”. fascinating river Adda, including Leonardo also studied and drew Leonardo’s landscapes and inspiration from this point of view industrial archaeology. - Villa Melzi d’Eril is at walking distance- so that, in the recent In Vaprio, close to the end of our renovation of the building was journey, here we are 33 km away included the Leonardo in Adda from Milan, you also pass next Interactive Gallery. to the Casa del Custode delle Acque (House of the Guardian of the Waters), the person who controlled the waters’ system

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Where the canal arises

The bike path that had della Divina Maternità (Shrine of disappeared to make way for the Divine Maternity), the canal the road reappears at the end of arises here, in the last corner to the incline that leaves behind the the northeast of the province of Vaprio Bridge. It is like the previous Milan but with some fresh air and stroke, rough and wild, so beautiful fragrant vegetation. (depending on your point of view). And as before, there are elderly people who walk and boys running because dirt does not necessarily mean abandoned or forgotten. After a few kilometres of forest, there is paradise, you find Concise, the fraction of Trezzo d’Adda where the Martesana Canal arises. Observed, guarded but also protected from the Santuario

“Al lavatoio”

13 Alzaia Street, Trezzo sull’Adda. Phone: 02.9091586

The Adda River locates the restaurant, downstream of a dam in beautiful art nouveau style, behind of which the river makes a bend, creating a magnificent scenery to be seen. On the shore you find large quantities of splashing swans, ducks, moorhens, kingfishers and other birds.

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From departure, we have covered tranquillity. But the cycle continues, about 36 km. The cycle path goes and as a lady that has found its left and continues as a narrow time, runs towards the Addax’s path, a short distance from the swans and the Paderno Canal, water and with a little effort you up to Manzoni’s Lecco. get to the Adda’s dam, where you find the Visconti Castle and Taccani hydroelectric plant. Here you can stop to enjoy the waters

For returning you can go back the same way, if your legs have the agility of other 36 km. Otherwise you can fall from Concessa in Cassana d’Adda long before the canal and then the Muzza channel, until you cross the railroad tracks, where turning right is the Cassano station (from Cassano is about 1 km) to get a comfortable train that brings you back to Milan.

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The history of Milan would be very different from the one we know if the city and the province were not so tied to the tangle of water, canals, rivers, streams and ditches that unfold like a spider web between the centre of the city and its countryside. After the rationalization of canals and ditches, up to date, in the province of Milan run 370 km of waterways. It is from this extensive irrigation’s network that draws the landscape of South Milan Agricultural Park, which together with the canals will be the backdrop to our journey of about 40 km.

40 km

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Let’s go!

Departure is from Piazza XXIV Maggio, the large space recently renovated overlooking the marina. This was the historic port of Milan up to 31st March 1979, one of the most important ports of goods in Italy, where in addition to the food that arrived in the city from the countryside, landed barges loaded with sand piled up along the banks, had suggested to the old Milanesi the nickname of the area still in use: THE SABBIONI.

XXIV Maggio Platz

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A bit of some road trip…

Our route, along the canal that runs on the right, runs along the Erba Brusca Restaurant. Alzaia Pavese (towpath Pavese), where up to Milanofiori there is a lot of traffic that it is better to be 286 Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, Milan very careful. The first stage LA CHIUSA, also The most appropriate definition called the Conchetta for as little of this restaurant is “garden with a kitchen”: the outside is a space given to maneuver, then, garden (where guests can eat after crossing Tibaldi Street during summer), where they grow you continue leaving behind aromatic herbs and vegetables in the overpass Schiavoni. After a season, raw materials for its dishes couple of miles appear CONCA and a symbol of this kitchen. FALLATA, so called because the abandonment of the work had www.erbabrusca.it thwarted the use of the waterway. Fallata means in fact wrong, but with a wry sense...

Conca Fallata

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...the cycle path begins...

Pedalling for 3 km, about 7 from the start, we get to Milanofiori Trattoria Burlagiò and its commercial centre. Here the exclusive path dedicated to bicycles begins. The Trattoria Burlagiò is a Milanese tavern that rises on the banks of Before passing under the bridge the Naviglio Pavese, where you of the ring road, in a small picnic can taste regional tradition dishes. area, you can see nutrias or wild The first most requested dish is the mythical yellow rice. Among the rabbits searching to consume their typical seconds to stand out are the daily meal. breaded veal cutlet, ossobuco (often The bridge seems to be the virtual served as a main dish along with yellow rice) and Cassoeula. border between Milan and its countryside, passing it, we will have the feeling that the city world Trattoria Burlagiò - 12 Pavese Street - has closed behind us. 20089 Rozzano Vecchia (MI) Tel. 02.8250046 - Fax. 02.8258357 Soon we arrive to Rozzano, where Closed Sundays and Saturdays at noon. we can admire a rich system of weirs and a crystalline waterfall. If there is a breath of wind, the www.trattoriaburlagio.it steam raised from the water will give us a nice cool feeling.

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Next to the weir, a small distance Silk Factory between the Giovi highway and Naviglio Pavese, there is an old abandoned building, actually a piece of industrial archaeology, among the most important ones. It is indeed a testimony of the Milanese industry of the early twentieth century, the factory, in disuse for fifty years, the Société Anonyme de Filatures Schappe, a French national company, was specialized in the production of silk, which had opened in 1907 in Rozzano as the only Italian subsidiary. The machines were powered by a small hydroelectric plant, which exploited the Naviglio’s weir and its waterfall. At work in this thriving activity during the Twenties were more than 800 people.

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Mills, orchards and fields

After the mill, over 2 to 3 km we cross Moirago and graze Zibido, without crossing the town of which we do not even notice the sign. As we continue to pedal along the path that runs straight on the right side of the waterway, we note that the dwellings will increasingly rare, replaced by orchards first and then fields. Along the shore, patient fishermen wait to see the rod bend and the fish take the bait.

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At about 11 km from the start, Moirago’s Old Tavern just before the small village Badile, there is a map sign with the South Agricultural Park routes perfectly The location is historic, the place designed and an iron bar to deter was built back in 1250 and has cars to go on the cycle path. The become a Tavern in 1478. This is sign on the left indicates “Caggiano the Old Tavern of Moirago in Zibido San Giacomo in Milan. The tavern - Naviglio Grande”. serves classic Mediterranean cuisine After passing the bar with our with specialties from Lombardy; the bikes, we will have to follow the dishes are both fish and meat. Pasta and desserts are homemade. signs to “Naviglio Grande”, our intermediate destination, before going back to Milan. 4 Pavese Street tel. 02.9000.21.74 fax 02.9000.33.99 [email protected] www.anticaosteriamoirago.it

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Agricultural south park

A good number of 9 paths meander through the Agricultural South Park and often intersect Cascina Cà Granda each other. Those we now choose are Route 5 or blue (Badile - San Pietro Cusico) and the Route The vineyard, located in the heart 4 or pink (San Pietro Cusico - of the South Agricultural Park in Caggiano). Milan, covers an area of about 90 hectares. There are planted corn After passing the bar, we will and fodder, for the healthy nutrition alternately see in our route of the herd, and a small part of stretches of clay to paved rice cultivation typical of the area. The old stable has been restored stretches. and opened to the public: it is here Two or three open spaces with that are sold raw milk quality, dairy benches invite us to give ourselves cheese, obtained with the milk’s workmanship, and rice cultivated a short relaxation. Going back with techniques that respect the on the saddle, after a ride, you environment and elaborated as will have the feeling of being light once, without preservatives and years away from the busy city, bleaching. The machine and the milk while mountains will seem next distributor of products (bottles, rice, honey, yogurt) are open every day close to you. of the week from 8 am to about 8:30pm. The dairy farm (fresh and aged cheeses, cold cuts) is open only on Saturdays and Sundays from 10am to 12 and from 4 to 7pm. Zipo farm dr. Marco Pozzi - Cascina Ca ‘Grande - Via San Giacomo 15, Zibido San Giacomo (MI)

[email protected] - 338/7916753 [email protected] - 349/2601886

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In fine weather, stands the skyline of Resegone, the Mount cited by Manzoni in the first pages of his “The Betrothed”.

“The coast, formed by deposits of three large rivers, leaning down to two contiguous mountains, one called San Martino, the other, in Lombard dialect, Resegone, from many of its summits in a row, it makes it look like a saw: so that is not who, at first sight, even if it is right in front, as for example as walls of Milan who look north, do not discern at once, to such a mark, in that long and wide dewlap, from other darker named and of most common form.” (The Betrothed, Alessandro Manzoni)

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The water meadows

In addition to the Resegone you technique consisted and consists can see the Grigne, Milanese of the springs’ water usage, even climbers’ gym, and farther Monte in winter. Rosa with its imposing size. While in summer the lawns are Looking down, much closer to us, watered regularly, in winter now we see the MARCITE (water continuously. So that the spring meadows). water flows throughout the year Characteristic cultural technique with a constant temperature of of the Po Valley fields had been between 9 °C (in winter) and 14 used for the first time in the °C (in summer), by keeping it grange, large farms owned by in constant motion and slightly the abbeys scattered in the area, degrading the ground, preventing from Viboldone to Mirasole or the soil from freezing. Chiaravalle, just to name a few that are worth a visit. The ancient

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In this way the vegetation’s development continues even during winter, making it possible to perform at least seven denominations of forage per year (but often also nine), against 4-5 obtained with another type of cultivation. Continuing to ride, about a mile from the junction, you’ll actually drive along one of the 1400 farms of the park and face a gentle slope that will allow us to overcome the highway Milan - Genoa. Completed the descent and crossed Zibido San Giacomo, before continuing on rough road that will lead us to San Pietro Cusico, where itinerary 4 starts. To do some math: from the waterway’s junction we have left L’Osterietta Restaurant - Pizzeria behind about 3 kilometres, while from Milan the kilometres will be 15. Lombardy’s typical cuisine, with possi- bility of pizza. It is open from Tuesday to Sunday (closed on Mondays)

From 12.00 to 2.30pm

From 7pm to 11.30pm

62 XXV Aprile Street

San Pietro Cusico, fraz. Zibido San Giacomo (MI), 20080

Tel. 02.90.00.24.83

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The oasis of Boscaccio

Once left San Pietro, there are nice views with ditches and canals that will accompany us to the Natural Reserve of Lake Boscaccio. Here we are 20 kilometers from the start and about 18 to arrival. The Boscaccio is a truly spectacular natural oasis, made with discretion and respect for nature of an abandoned quarry. Obtained with other similar procedures, it is primarily distinguished by its size, since its extension, over 35 hectares, places it among the larger ponds in the Milan Province, surpassed only by Idroscalo.

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Cascina Boscaccio

Moreover, over the years, the Boscaccio characteristics have proved ideal for resting migratory Cascina Boscaccio birds and nesting of many rare species and not. Cascina Boscaccio is an Within happy Boscaccio eighteenth-century’s typical inhabitants do not only appear Lombard farmhouse that has birds, but in the lake, 5 meters preserved, unchanged over the deep, are hosted numerous years, the architectural features of species of fish and amphibians simplicity typical of rural buildings which fans can see up close in the region. Lake Boscaccio, around three quarters of the thanks to diving courses locally corpus of the farm buildings, is organized by qualified instructors. fed by numerous springs of pure Other than spy on the inhabitants’ water, and recreates a natural movement in the depths of habitat typical of the Lombard the lake, the Boscaccio offers plain. Together, structure and nature, give shape to a unique and sports activities and enjoyment, charming location as the setting such as horseback riding or for fairytale ceremonies. swimming lessons and boating. The landmark is a farmhouse that hosts, from time to time, banquets www.cascinaboscaccio.com/ and conferences.

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Madonnina del Dosso

Left behind the Boscaccio by some pedaling, we find the ‘Madonna del Dosso’, an isolated chapel built in the middle of the expanse of rice fields and surrounded by some trees, whose shade is particularly appreciated by cyclists, especially in summer. It is a small devotional church whose construction is linked to the discovery of a wooden crucifix that is still preserved in the Church. It is not known the construction date but for some already existed around the years 1280-90. Il dosso, the rise on which it stands and from which it takes its name, is not an artificial embankment but the original plan of the ground, around which in the twentieth century was dug to extract the clay layer for the manufacture of bricks.

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The Naviglio Grande

A few minutes away are Gaggiano Water House and the path of the Naviglio Grande that will bring us back to Milan. After the bridge, we move to the opposite side of the Naviglio Grande: where the path runs for about 13 kilometres until you reach the dock. Along the way you will meet again farms, many of which are almost uninhabited. In Corsico you can make water supply from the ‘Casa dell’Acqua’ (Water House), where the various taps of public drinking fountains gush out fizzing water, chilled and simple.

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19 Quasimodo Street Angolo sul Naviglio Restaurant 20090 Trezzano sul Naviglio (MI) (the angle on the Canal Restaurant)

Cell. 346 408 4587 The restaurant is located in a building whose construction took Tel. 02 84 56 97 36 place before 1233, and that Fax 02 84 56 97 34 since then hosted a tavern. The [email protected] restaurant is characterised by being located directly on the canal, Closed on Mondays the kitchen and a glass porch, www.ristoranteangolosulnaviglio.it which overlooks a lovely garden with an original herb garden in tiers. The dishes are inspired by traditional cuisine, with particular attention to local ingredients.

Angolo sul Naviglio

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From the Water House, about Chiesa di San Cristoforo five kilometres to reach our final point which was also the starting one, and after traveling a path ring of about 40 kilometers back to the Darsena (dock) of Porta Ticinese, along the road that is again suitable for cars, we will first meet the Canottieri Milano (Milan Rowing) and then the Canottienri Olona (Olona Rowing), historical Milanese sports associations. Back in the chaotic frenzy of Alta Luce Teatro (High Light Theatre) Milan, with our eyes still full of the 192 Alzaia Naviglio Grande - 20144 Milano Lombardy countryside images and inside our nostrils the scent 348.7076093 of crops and grassland that we Alta Luce is a theatre which offers just left, we realize what these courses in a former laboratory adjacent two speed worlds are separated to the Naviglio, shortly after the Church from each other by only a few of St. Christopher. kilometres. www.altaluceteatro.com

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The way for EXPO 2015

A ride from Piazza Duomo to the Expo 2015 site is a journey through the history and geography of Milan, that for miles and periods tell the tradition and the future of this city, Milanese and worldwide known. For comfort you can take a BIKEMI bike, Milan’s bike sharing, which for the occasion has made available 1.000 red bicycles with pedal assistance. The track is completely safe: the cycle tracks alternate roads not too busy until you get to Cascina Merlata where racks are provided for at least 500 bicycles. From here on the Universal Exhibition which houses 80 pavilions and 145 countries.

12 km

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Let’s start with the bike almost in hands...

It is nice to start our cycling though a well of the XVI century, while in from Mercanti Square, in the front of the lodge are the Palatine homonymous street that begins in Schools and the remains of a front of the Duomo and comes in prison. Cordusio. Mercanti Square has a Today that building is a bank unique charm: it was built in 1228 while the Palazzo della Ragione is –though before the Duomo- when returning to its true glory thanks the new Broletto “Palazzo della to a major restoration, and hosts Ragione” was built. exhibitions of great photographers. Here the typical activities of the On a wall of the building there is courts were managed, while the the “scrofa semilanuta” (half-wooly Square was for the traders, as well sow), an animal which is associated as the adjacent lodge overlooking with the origin of Milan, according the street. At the center there is to one of the legends. It is visible but we do not say where, it would be nice to be able to find it before you carry on pedaling. Across the road from dei Mercanti Street you find the Palazzo Giureconsulti. It is a project of Vincenzo Seregni made in 1562; large staircases and beautiful halls host exhibitions and cultural events in an appropriate context. Few rides away and you get in Cordusio Square to cross in Dante street.

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We hope to find a red light so, in Mercanti Square the meantime, we can have a look at the Square that is designed by elegant buildings built between the end of 1800 and the beginning of the next century, according to Cesare Berruto’s plan, taking on what we see today: Palazzo Broggi -the Stock Exchange from 1901 to 1932, Palazzo of the Assicurazioni Generali (of Luca Beltrami and Luigi Tenenti) and the Palace of Credito Italiano, whose first construction was of Luigi Broggi. In front of our wheels instead a web of tram tracks, as Cordusio is the hub of communication routes that depart and arrive in the folds of the city. Beyond the romantic view on track, we must be careful and remember one of the basic rules of urban cyclists: the tracks are “cut” with a trajectory of at least twenty degrees and when needed you must be able to support the entire sole of the foot on ground and not just the tip, the usual “measure” which adjusts the saddle height.

Duomo

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The way for EXPO 2015

Dante street... and then you pedal!

We leave on our right the statue of the ‘700s poet Giovanni Parini and take Dante Street with our bike in hands for only 500 meters enjoying the look at shops and buildings. Today Dante Street is pedestrian, decked with flags, populated, chatted, watched. In projects at the beginning of last century, when the street was opened, it was going to be called Sempione Street and be an avenue together with Corso Sempione, which we will find later, clearing the Sforzesco Castle and Palazzo della Ragione perhaps its park. As in Cordusio Square, the finest palaces were In the heart of Milan’s Palazzo della built between the late ‘800s and Ragione, the best exhibitions devoted the beginning of the next century; to photography, from contemporary some are at the beginning of the talents to the masters of the photo- street, number 7 and 9. graphic language. Within six months of the Expo will be organized two exhi- Since we are cycling you can turn bitions whose theme is ‘A trip in the right for Rovello Street and browse beautiful country’ through the images the headquarters of the Piccolo of the most important Italian photogra- Teatro (Little Theatre). “Arlecchino, phers. The largest photo exhibition ever Servant of Two Masters” is Milan in dedicated to Italy in two separate but the international world from 1947, related times: year of conversion of the cinema INSIDE March 21 -21 June 2015: Italian Broletto to theatre, so that tradition photographers together with internationalization OUT July 1 -27 September 2015: World are the tracks on which the Piccolo photographers has traveled to date: Theatre of Milan - Theatre of Europe. www.palazzodellaragionefotografia.it

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Taking once again left on Dante Steet at the corner of Cairoli Square, there is an interesting international library named Melting Pot, here you find books in their original language from England, France and Spain. Piccolo Teatro From there, and a little further on, Since the beginning of the years at number 2 San Giovanni sul Muro 2000 the Piccolo has accentuated Street, you find the dal Verme its international and interdisciplinary Theatre, with two rooms: 200 and dimension, by standing as an ideal 1500 seats- for concerts, events citizen and European cultural center. and exhibitions. Dante Street ends On its stages alternate plays and dance shows, exhibitions and film on Cairoli Square. festivals, round tables and cultural At the centre of the square there’s studies. a monument to Garibaldi built in www.piccoloteatro.org 1895 by Ettore Ximenes with its basement of groups fighting for revolution and freedom; instead its ornamentation there are Foro Buonaparte arms, these built towards the end of 1800. Rather are of nowadays the two Expo House buildings, for everything you want to know about the event.

Cordusio

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The castle

Carry on pedaling towards the Sforzesco Castle: it is impressive Teatro Dal Verme the difference in space from the (Dal Verme Theatre) road traveled so far and the open space in front of the castle. Dal Verme Theatre belongs to the The new flooring then, without City and Province of Milan and is any restraints, exacerbates this run since April 2001 - the year of difference -that is a beauty- its reopening – by I Pomeriggi Mu- and prepares the successive sicali Foundation. Dal Verme is the environments, the garden inside seat of the historic Symphony Or- the castle and the Sempione Park chestra I Pomeriggi Musicali, and soon after. is the site of a very complex and diverse programming that puts Mi- We can take the cycle path that lan on a vast landscape of mu- goes around the castle from our sic that ranges from classical and right and brings us to the ‘Arco symphonic to the scenes of inde- della Pace’ (Arch of Peace); or pendent rock, from jazz to elec- enter the Castle. During the project tronic music, from pop to higher planning of the end ‘800s the expressions of international con- Castle was a problem to pave. temporary folk music. Today is one of the symbols of www.dalverme.org the city; built as a defensive fortress between 1360 and 1370 by Galeazzo II Visconti, the work was then continued with the successors Gian Galeazzo and Filippo Maria, which transformed it into their residence.

Castello Sforzesco

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Fortunately ended the period in which Milan needed a similar Castello Sforzesco military construction, and passed (Sforzesco Castle) the indifference of the city towards The Sforzesco Castle, one of the the structure. most important monuments of Mi- Today the Castle is the setting lan, had, during its history, long for cultural exhibitions, sporting construction vicissitudes, brutal events; even the wide moat is one demolitions, reconstructions, res- of the most picturesque locations torations and embellishments, be- where in September is organized coming a symbol of Milan’s histori- the Milan Film Festival. cal moments, happy and dramatic ones. Today the Castle is well to house museums and libraries, as- suming cultural and public func- tions that still characterizes it. www.milanocastello.it

Castello Sforzesco

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Sempione Park, the lungs of Milan

Out from the ramparts of the Torre Branca (Branca Tower) Castle you find Parco Sempione (Sempione Park). D’Armi Square Built by Gio Ponti in 1933, restored and then gardens, to be built first by Branca Bros. since 1985 and and to defend now, the Park is made accessible in 2002, with its the city’s oxygen and gives the 108 meters is the highest point of illusion of being at the outskirts the Sempione Park in Milan. The even though you are in the heart roof terrace is accessible by an el- of the city. evator up to the viewpoint, view of the city. On a clear day, from the The area is about 390,000 square platform (diameter 18,50 meters) meters, fenced and guarded since located at the top, you can see a few years. Looking straight on, the entire profile of Milan, a good just outside the Castle you can see part of the Lombard plain, the Alps Arco della Pace (Arch of Peace), and Apennines. our next destination. 02.3314120 Though to get there we have to take the excavated roads [email protected] that open to the left or right: www.fps-eventi.it on one side it passes near the Triennale, benchmark for design, architecture, visual and figurative arts. On the other side the Arena Civica (Civic Arena), before the Napoleonic Arena and today Arena Gianni Brera), which was dedicated to the great sports writer and journalist from Lombardy.

Torre Branca

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The Arena –of the neoclassical architect Luigi Canova- was inaugurated in summer 1807 and Triennale still hosts the Italian Championships and Lombardy Athletics; it is the The Triennale di Milano is a cultur- home of the historic Riccardi – al institution that produces interna- tional exhibitions, conferences and light athletics- and of the Amatory events of art, design, architecture, rugby, but from here both cycling fashion, film, communication and and football passed by before society. It organizes exhibitions the construction of the San Siro dedicated to contemporary art, stadium; going back in time also to the architects and designers of chariot races, circus shows and national and international reputa- westerns, Buffalo Bill. tion, to the great designers who have changed fancies and styles, In Parco Sempione is still pleasant to social issues. to stroll through the streets, stopping at one of the small bars Triennale Design Museum is the that are hidden in the green or first museum of Italian design, and offers visitors the chance to dis- just get some fresh air under the cover the excellence of Italian de- trees; there after you will ride on sign through unusual viewpoints. concrete for obvious urban issues, so we fill ourselves of oxygen now. www.triennale.org

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The champs elysees of Milan

We get to Corso Sempione The Arch has been recently (Sempione Avenue) through restored and descriptions in Arco della Pace; so named by marble gleam in the sun, when Ferdinand I of Austria, when the there is some! Corso Sempione construction manager Carlo is intended as the first part of Giuseppe Londonio completed in an axis linking Milan to Paris, at 1838 the work which begun thirty the beginning of 1800. It clearly years earlier by Giovanni Cagnola recalls the Champs Elysées, with commissioned by the City of Milan a central avenue and two lines. and Napoleon. On the left of the first part of the Avenue we get to cross the road twice - front and left- to introduce ourselves on the cycle path at the centre of the Avenue, away from cars and trams.

Arco della Pace

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Among the tramcars you can RAI Palace meet those characteristics ones of Milan, the “Type 1928” built in about 500 units in that year and the next four. More or less fifty trams of that model are still circulating, beautifully awkward, wood and iron, cold and romantic. When one of these vehicles stop at number 27, the stop for the building of the RAI - Italian Television, and built by the Milanese designer Gio Ponti - you are in front of a piece of Italian history of the ‘900s within a few meters. We ride in Corso Sempione up to Losanna Street and turn left at the traffic lights, cross the Avenue and take Arona Street. Pedal for about 150 metres, turn left and immediately right and you find yourself in front of the Vigorelli.

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The legendary Vigorelli Velodrome

The Vigorelli Velodrome is the Vigorelli and Isozaki Tower legend of cycling in Milan and the world, a theater of sport, where the greatest cyclists of all times performed with victories, fame and applauses. The idea was of Giuseppe Vigorelli, commissioner of the then Mangiagalli junta, industrial and cyclist in his youth; in 1935 he makes it build to replace the then old Sempione Velodrome. The track is smooth, adrenaline, exciting. Time records, grand tours and cycling history with its champions; everything passes through Vigorelli and on the website www.vigorelli.org you can Vigorelli read the story and understand Once there was the magic of the why it should be kept alive and Vigorelli track and Italian cycling, a told, preserved, honored. world of emotions, entertainment and champions that have brought We will pass by cycling close success in Milan and Italy. From as a caress and continue in a simple sports facility becomes Gattamelata Street where we can a mythical place, a veritable peek in the workshop of Faliero temple of international cycling. Masi who is there, somewhere in Comparisons abound: the “Scala” the belly of the Velodrome, so to of cycling, the ‘Stradivari’ tracks. breathe the thin air of the cycling To relive all these emotions plan a world. visit through www.vigorelli.org

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Mhe ac Milan House

Ride through all Gattamelata Street, about a mile and a half that brings us to the pedestrian Gino Valle Square: we get to the Portello area, where between modern buildings and the old Fiera Campionaria (Trade Fair) shines “Casa Milan”. The futuristic building, of architect Fabio Novembre, is since the 6th October 2013 the AC Milan House www.acmilan.com. Museum, offices, restaurant and shop; here’s everything you look for that concerns the most titled football team in the world. But the best part is the Square, the largest in the city, when it is fulfilled with AC Milan fans cheering.

Portello Park

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You cross Gino Valle Square and carry on the pedestrian bridge that crosses the ring Renato Serra. Once at a supermarket turn left, then left again on Achille Papa Street; at the roundabout, on bike path you turn left crossing Portello Park, climb on the pedestrian bridge that crosses De Gasperi Street and descend in Cimabue Street. It is a narrow but safe street; drivers of this area are used to runners going on training in XXV Aprile ground, historical meeting place for professionals and amateurs in the various disciplines of light athletics. On the right, just before you get to the San Siro Montagnetta: the Mount Stella.

Bridge between Portello and Park

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The Monte Stella

Accumulation of rubble of World War II, the “Montagnetta” –so called by the Milanese- was then a strategic roadmap for cyclocross races and business of the legendary Renato Longo, 12 times Italian champion and five-time world champion of this specialty. Today the Monte Stella is the favorite place to organize football matches -on meadow path - and running on levels, the only optional place in Milan. From a height of fifty meters you can admire the metropolis and you may dream The Monte Stella’s Giardino dei Giusti is an area of over 7.000 square the mountains, which views from metres, inaugurated on January there are even closer. 24th, 2003. It originated from the proposal of Gabriele Nissim, president of the “Committee of the Giusti (Righteous).” Since 2008 the management of the Garden has entrusted to the Garden of the Righteous of Milan Association, founded by the City of Milan, the Italian Jewish Communities Union and the Giusti-Gariwo Committee . For all information: http://it.gariwo. net/giardini/giardino-di-milano/il- giardino-dei-giusti-a-milano-3504. html

Cycle Lane Montestella

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Benedetto Croce Street Monte Stella is also the site of “Il Giardino dei Giusti di tutto il mondo”, a memorial dedicated to all the Righteous in the world that have fought for genocide. Built in 2003 on the example of the garden and museum of Jerusalem Yad Washem and fourth in the world, the Garden of the Righteous of Monte Stella is for those who have struggled against the holocaust of the Jews, but also for the gulag’s victims, the Armenian genocide, massacres of civilians in Chechnya and anyone who has tried to defend the Men’s dignity. For each of them a tree and a stone in granite. It should be seen; sobering; to be taken along with ourselves. For Expo 2015 the architect Stefano Valabrega created the subdivision of the area into four zones: Meditation, Dialogue, Debris and one dedicated to an auditorium. Monte Stella is so called because “Stella” (Star) was the name of Piero Bottoni’s wife, the architect who designed the project. Today Monte Stella is a beautiful park!

Cycle Lane Benedetto Croce Street

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...the arrival at the Expo

We cross S. Elia Street starting There are no more beautiful here a long bike path that leads buildings of downtown Milan’s us to the Expo site. First you take centre but there is more green, towards Padre Salerio Street and more air and more sky. then to Benedetto Croce Street, Carry on through Apennini Street turning right. Turn left and then to the roundabout we take right immediately right to Quadrenghi to Suzzara Street, then left for a Street, jumping from left to right of few dozen meters away through a green area; after about a mile Gallarate Street. you get to the metro stop Bonola that you leave on you right going At the roundabout Cascina Merlata towards Appennini Street. we go right and we finally arrive to destination: the Expo Milano 2015 site. In the future that is tradition, remembering Expo 1906. In fact, tradition and future, dialect and English, for us have the same name: Milan.

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