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Explorations About Mount Sir Sandford, British Columbia Author(S): Howard Palmer Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol Explorations about Mount Sir Sandford, British Columbia Author(s): Howard Palmer Source: The Geographical Journal, Vol. 37, No. 2 (Feb., 1911), pp. 170-179 Published by: geographicalj Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1777904 Accessed: 12-06-2016 12:30 UTC Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at http://about.jstor.org/terms JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Wiley, The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to The Geographical Journal This content downloaded from 131.172.36.29 on Sun, 12 Jun 2016 12:30:35 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 170 EXPLORATIONS ABOUT MOUNT SIR SANDFORD, BRITISH COLUMBIA. Geologically it appears to be a part of it. Botanically it contains Pina shrinkiana, or the Tian-Shan spruce, the characteristic conifer of Turkestan; whilst zoologically it was observed that the northern foothills formed the northern limit of the Chukor partridge (Caccabis chucar). The real dividing-line, therefore, between Central and Northern Asiatic types, lies somewhere between the Barlik and Sair mountains, and not, as might be expected, in the rift-like depression called the Dzungarian Gate. The Sair mountains are the eastern continuation of the Tarbogatai, and although they were not explored, it was noticed that they formed the southern limit of the Siberian larch. Between these ranges-the Barlik and the Sair, there are other mountain groups which must have formed a chain of islands in a wide strait connecting the northern sea with the seas of Central Asia; and the Dzungarian Gap was merely a strait between one of the islands (the Barlik) and the mainland of Ala-tau." The expedition reached Kulja on November 14. Next year's programme is not quite settled, but a start will probably be made in January along the Chinese trade-route through Urumshi and Turfan to Hami. Mr. Price returns to England from hlere, whilst Mr. Miller and myself will go eastwards. Our objective will be the Barkul-Hami group of mountains where geographical and zoological investigations will be carried on to prove whether this group really belongs to the Altai system rather than to the Tian-Shan, as the Russian explorers Grum Grijmailo believed it to be. Our work will then take us eastwards to the Aty-bogdo, of Kozloff, in the western part of the Gobi and further eastwards, if time permits. EXPLORATIONS ABOUT MOUNT SIR SANDFORD, BRITISH COLUMBIA.* By HOWARD PALMER, LL.B. (Harv.), P.R.G.S. I. INTRODUCTION. THIE Selkirk range of British Columbia includes some of the largest and most interesting tracts of unexplored alpine territory south of Alaska. Extending from the international boundary in a north-westerly direction for nearly 250 miles, the chain fills roughly the area comprised within the Big Bend of the Columbia and between its northerly and southerly courses. Right in the bight of this curious loop lies one of the most magnificent and least-known portions of the range-a fertile field for the explorer.! Though travel has passed around it through the Columbia valley since the early goldseeking days, and several mining trails penetrate its borders for considerable distances along the rivers, orographical knowledge about * Map,'p. 240. t A. 0. Wheeler,' Selkirk Range,' vol. 1, pp. 232, 256, notes. This content downloaded from 131.172.36.29 on Sun, 12 Jun 2016 12:30:35 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms EXPLORATIONS ABOUT MOUNT SIR SANDFORD, BRITISH COLUMBIA. 171 the tract as a whole is of the scantiest description. When viewed from the heights adjacent to the Canadian Pacific Railway, which crosses the system at about a third of its length from the northern extremity and bounds the terra ignota on the south, it presents a perfect sea of nameless peaks and glaciers,.spreading out, wave on wave, to the horizon with scarcely a break. In the very heart of the district towers Mount Sir Sandford, the loftiest summit of the range yet determined. Its com- manding height and conspicuous form led to its christening and measure- ment from a distance of 27 miles by the Government Survey; but down to 1909 no one had ever set foot upon the mountain or knew even a practicable way thither. The result by triangulation was 11,634 feet.* II. NARRATIVE. A preliminary excursiont into this region in 1908, with Mr. B. S. Comstock of New York, revealed Mount Sir Sandford and its setting as of unusual topographical interest. Grandly castellated peaks, broad spreading neves and magnificent- glaciers delighted our eyes on every hand and betokened a field well worth further investigation. Accordingly the next season the same party, with the welcome addition of Prof. H. C. Parker of New York, assembled at Golden, British Columbia, with this end in view. Profiting by a wider knowledge of the country, we expected to find a passable route to the mountain, to climb it if possible; but at any rate to explore the neighbouring glaciers and neves. We again engaged Manuel Dainard of Golden to outfit us and several woodsmen as packers. Leaving Beavermouth (2435 feet), the most northerly station on the Canadian Pacific Railway, at noon on June 14, we dropped down the Columbia river in canoes for 19 miles, and then turned up Gold river, the first large western tributary beyond Beaver river. By dint of strenuous work against its 5-mile current with oar, pole, paddle, and rope, we reached a point some 3 miles from the mouth at nightfall, and set up the tents on a sandy bar (2300 feet). The next day we advanced a short distance further upstream with the boats, and then, caching them and packing the outfit on our shoulders, we continued along the west bank. After covering about 4 miles we reached the West Branch, and camped at 2600 feet + near its confluence with the main stream. * A. O. Wheeler, ' Selkirk Range,' vol; 1, p. 74. t ' Appalachia' (Boston), vol. 12, No. 1, p. 16. $ This and the following heights mentioned, except where the contrary is indicated, were determined by aneroid. Owing to the lack of a near base station to which the readings could be referred, and to the sudden and frequent weather changes characteristic of the region, they are given to the nearest 100 feet only. In most cases, the figures represent the approximate averages of ascending and descending results, and they are based on an assumed altitude of 2300 feet for the confluence of Gold river with the Columbia. They are inserted here for whatever value they may possess as an indication of the relative relief. This content downloaded from 131.172.36.29 on Sun, 12 Jun 2016 12:30:35 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 172 EXPLORATIONS ABOUT MOUNT SIR SANDFORD, BRITISH COLUMBIA. We knew that this fork flowed from Sir Sandford's glaciers and planned to follow its valley henceforward. Indeed, there was no alternative, for on the further bank the Sir Sandford range flung out a long wall of grim precipices, precluding any advance in that direction, and the opposite slope was too rough for a traverse above timber-line. We found it anything but easy travelling. The valley was deep and narrow, with practically no floor. Its slopes, where not actually precipitous, fell down steeply to the streamln, so that for much of the distance we had to make our way along the water's edge. In addition, they were mantled with a dense growth of evergreen forest, choked with alders, ferns, and devil's club.* Here and there avalanches had ploughed down through the trees on either side, leaving a tangled chaos of old trunks and branches. Occasionally their terrific impetus had taken them even to the torrent itself, as several thick snow arches bore witness. In these clearings the alders flourished with especial luxuriance, and only by vigorous chopping could they be passed. Green's vivid description of travel through similiar country to the south cannot be improved on (Proc. R.G.S., 1889, p. 165). The method of progl'ession we finally adopted was to halt for a day or two in one place, until the men could locate a suitable advance camp, and hew out a trail to it with their axes. Then the whole party would move forward and the process be repeated. In this way we traversed the 12 miles to Sandford Camp, taking the same number of days. Most of the time hordes of mosquitoes pestered us, making gloves and headnets constantly necessary. During the march, Mr. Comstock and the writer ascended to a commanding point on each side of the valley for topographical purposes. From Taurus Camp we occupied a prominent knob (7600 feet) on a northerly spur of Mount Taurus, covering the valley from Survey peak to Sentry mountain and a portion of the Columbia river. A day or two later from Mosquito Camp we elimbed up the northerly slopes of the valley to the eastern summit of a massif, for which we propose the name Mount Stockmer (9000 feet). This was an important station, for besides giving us our first glimpse of Mount Sir Sandford's northerly faces, it enabled us to look over into the Columbia valley on the further side of the Giant's range.
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