Destination Paradise

Destination Paradise

It’s all about you, the reader

Destination Paradise Staff

eing stationed overseas can have its setbacks. The opportunity to travel is not one of them. On Oscar Johnson the contrary, living in the Pacific offers you the chance to explore the many wonders of this re- Editor gion. And judging by the stories in our 2014 edition of Destination Paradise, your fellow readers Bare making the most of the opportunity. Yuko Okazaki This year’s magazine features first-person takes from readers who found their own piece of paradise Layout Designer in the Pacific region. From Fiji and Phuket to Bali and China, they’ll take you on an adventure that covers 11 destinations. Kat Nickola, whose family is stationed in Korea, takes us on four journeys, including hiking in Tibet and riding elephants in Laos. She and her family are definitely enjoying their Max D. Lederer Jr. time in the Pacific! Publisher Destination Paradise is just a taste of what Stars and Stripes offers. Our community newspapers – Lt. Col. Brian H. Porter, USAF Stripes Kanto, Stripes Okinawa, Stripes Guam and Stripes Korea – serve up travel and culture stories, restaurant reviews, and the latest happenings on and off the local bases. Commander And if you’re looking for even more ideas about things to do or see, check out Kanto.Stripes.com, Terry Wegner Okinawa.Stripes.com, Guam.Stripes.com or Korea.Stripes.com, all of which are packed with travel Business Operations Manager and dining information. These interactive sites allow you to share your experiences with your military Chris Carlson community – all you have to do is log on and submit your story. Publishing and Media Design Manager Stars and Stripes wants to hear from you and give you a voice. Whether it’s a story you want to Ed Kelin share with the rest of our audience, or if there’s something you’d like us to do better, reach out to us. We’ll get back to you, right away. I promise. Advertising and Circulation Manager Now it’s time to turn the page and escape to a piece of paradise. Enjoy the journey. Maria Kato Marketing Chris Carlson John Parker Publishing and Media Design Manager Interactive Media Manager Yoshifumi Yagisawa Production Manager Area Managers Monte Dauphin, Japan Scott Wheeler, Okinawa Rick Villanueva, Korea Multimedia Consultant Max Genao Doug Johnson Scott Jung Jason Lee Carolina Nishimoto Megumi Savoy China Hans Simpson Robert Zuckerman Page 30 Graphic Designers Korea Ayako Kamio Yukiyo Oda Laos Page 14 & 22 Kenichi Ogasawara Kayoko Shimoda Pages 36 Sales Support Ryoko Imahori Yoko Noro 14&22 Yuko Saito Yusuke Sato Tibet 30 Saori Tamanaha Hye Yong Yi page 8 8 34 Beppu Destination Paradise 2014 is an exclusive Page 34 Stars and Stripes adverting supplement for members of the U.S. military community 18 36 26 serving overseas. The content herein is India unofficial and is not to be considered as Page 18 24 Philippines the official views of, or endorsed by, Stars and Stripes, the U.S. government, or the Page 26 Department of Defense. The advertising in this 38 publication does not constitute endorsement Phuket 6 by Stars and Stripes of the products or services advertised. All rights reserved. Cover and Page 24 contents may not be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written permission.

Bali Email: [email protected] with Page 38 Fiji questions or comments. To subscribe to Stars and Stripes, email: SSPcirculation@stripes. Page 6 com. Mailing address: Unit 45002, APO AP 96338-5002 4 Destination Paradise 2014

Yes, we dove at “night and petted sharks.”

My housband and I (we are the couple in the middle) had a great time with our friends in Fiji.

his past summer my husband and I went ceremony. You toss a flower into the sea as you on a once-in-a-lifeatime scuba diving depart the island, and if the flower comes back trip to Beqa Lagoon resort on Beqa to the shore, you are said to be destined to re- TIsland, Fiji. We went back and forth on whether turn. I actually cried when we left. I’ve been on we should go because of the cost and the fact many a vacation and was never moved enough my husband received military orders to Japan to cry when it was time to leave. around that time. But, we’re so glad we did! We had a single bure (a private hut) and it We were worried we’d be too stressed out was lovely. We even had a few geckos visit and with the upcoming PCS move to enjoy a vaca- chirp at us. Oh! Be on the lookout for mon- tion, but we were wrong and we’d do it again goose as you walk the grounds. in a heartbeat. Some of the most amazing dive Just be sure to bring the right kind of sites in the world are in Fiji, so dive there if you adapter for your electronics. There is In- ever get the chance. ternet, but you have to pay for it. It was so We went with our local dive shop’s group of refreshing to be unplugged from Facebook, 12 and there were about 10 other email, and the web. People Dive guests outside our group actually talked to each other on the island that week. MY PARADISE during meals and we only This gave us a very low-key used our phones for pictures. It vacation with an exclusive feel to it. I’m unsure was so nice to be unplugged. into Fiji’s if it is true, but I heard there was a two-year One of my favorite things from this trip was wait to vacation at our Fiji location. After our waking up and falling asleep to the waves softly experience, I would not be surprised if that crashing in the distance. welcoming were the case. I took advantage of the complimentary I was most impressed with the kindness welcome foot massage the second day while and warmth of the locals who worked at the my husband, David, took a nap. The massage resort. They lived in a small village that you therapist was so friendly and had a great sense waters could see from the resort’s dining hall. We of humor. It was delightful and I knew that I were welcomed by the staff at the shore with a would want to look into their other services. traditional welcome song and we were offered Later in the week we treated ourselves to the fragrant garlands. Beqa signature massage and that was so very When it came time to leave they sent us off relaxing. The therapists are professional, kind, Story and photos by with a goodbye song and a traditional flower and experienced. And even though you were in Angela Schnabel

6 Destination Paradise 2014 a private hut, you could still see out across at The Bistro site were a lot of fun, but we the ocean and feel the sea breeze. got just as many great pictures, video, and The food was fabulous (the best resort memories from the other boat dives. Yes, we food I’ve ever had, actually), and the staff and dove at night and petted sharks. The night level of service were impeccable. They knew dive was just so fascinating. So many differ- your names within a few days, which blew ent sea creatures come out at night. my mind since we aren’t used to that kind of Seeing only by the beam of your flash- service in the States. light adds another level of adventure to I rarely eat dessert but had it every night scuba diving. You look to your left only to while in Fiji. We dove hard every day so see complete darkness until you shine your I figured my body could handle the extra light over. Then you see a small reflective calories. They also had lean and vegetarian dot. Then another. Reef sharks are check- options available. ing you out. What a rush! I will definitely The soups were delicious. The fish tasted do it again. One of our dive masters even wonderful. The steak was to die for; it was grabbed shark teeth for us from the bottom perfect. It took a lot of will power to avoid of The Bistro shark dive site. I turned them licking the plate. into necklaces that look pretty awesome. The fire walkers are exclusive to Beqa and they put on quite a show. The local villagers Taking a dive put on what they called a fashion show, but it was more of a cultural display of different The diving was unbelievable. I have outfits and dances. never experienced anything like it, and look Usually I’m ready to get back to the daily forward to other amazing dives in our future. grind and see our two fat cats. But this time We have dived at Playa del Carmen, but Fiji I found myself wishing the vacation would was the perfect place to start our scuba div- never end. I imagine it was mostly because ing bucket list. I knew the same daily grind and packing for I wore my traditional sarong at home The dive crew was very experienced and the move to Japan awaited us back home. after work for weeks and it took about two took us to wonderful dive sites. How they I also knew there would be no freshly cut months for me to get over my daily longing kept up with everyone I’ll never know. But, I papaya every morning, no “bula!” when you to be back in Fiji. Now it is a fond memory felt very safe in their hands. greet each other, and no sarongs back home and we hope our flowers returned to the The night and shark dives in Oklahoma City. shore so we can visit again someday. Many times monks “wanted to come over and hold our daughter, see her blond hair and get a picture.”

ibet is one of those places that inspires all Every wall has a mural, every room has amazing kinds of emotions for those not living there. colorful tapestry, and the smell of burning incense And regardless of your preconceived no- and yak butter is permeating. It was sensory over- Ttions, a visit there will be an exciting adventure. load for a family just off the jet! My family and I traveled to Tibet for eight days Before leaving, we needed to visit the toilet. I in the month of May during a month-long whirl- must share that a highlight of my day was squatting wind China tour. Our first adventure was getting over a hole and looking through it down a 30-foot in! We flew from Chengdu to Lhasa, the capital of cliff; I never thought a bathroom experience could Tibet, on an early morning flight. be so exhilarating! It is recommended that you arrive a day prior to For the afternoon we had some welcome free touring to acclimate to the altitude, but we were un- time exploring (in a clockwise direction) the huge lucky in that there was a simple misspelling on my outdoor vendor market along Barkhor street – a husband’s Tibetan permit, forcing us to delay our cobblestone road that encircles the Jokhang flight and stay an extra day in Chengdu. Needless to Temple. The many side alleys were fascinating, and say, we were a bit tired as our guide TseTan greeted we quite enjoyed bartering for souvenirs among us at the airport with traditional Tibetan welcome the unique stalls selling everything from yak-fur scarves and whisked us away to our first site. clothing and Tibetan Buddhist amulets to shirts Potala Palace is the famous former home to and DVDs. Our guide, TseTan, also took us inside The lure the Dalai Lama, the former spiritual and political Jokhang Temple to see all the happenings within leader of Tibet. In 1959, the 14th Dalai Lama fled this very active and very spiritual place. Tibet as the Chinese invaded and has not been There were huge, colorful fierce-looking pro- of Tibet welcome to return. tector-god statues, a central Buddha statue, and Fortunately, Potala Palace escaped an altar overflowing with incense, yak candles, major damage during the turbulent and fragrance. It is here that we saw the first history of Tibet and we were able to of many Tibetan pilgrims slowly making their experience it firsthand. Potala Palace is way around the temple by standing in prayer Story and photos by composed of two parts, the Red Palace and then prostrating belly-down Kat Nickola and the White Palace. on the ground only to rise again We marveled at the Dalai Lama’s and repeat one body-length fur- living quarters within the White Palace ther. Throughout our entire trip – the modesty of decor and small size we were humbled by the pilgrims took us by surprise. Then, as we crossed we saw in towns, on roads and a huge courtyard into the Red Palace, in the middle of nowhere slowly the ornate decor took our progressing in this manner. breath away. This part On our second day in Lhasa of the palace is much we visited two outlying and larger with numerous active monasteries: Dre- halls and chapels. It is pung and Sera. Again, we was the place for study, were overwhelmed by the worship and ritual. sights and smells within

8 Destination Paradise 2014 the numerous halls and chapels. Both places also In May, the summer rains have not yet started, temple buildings, monk residences, courtyards, reflected the unique Dzong architectural style so the mountainsides are still quite brown with and libraries. we saw everywhere from Potala to the smallest the only greenery appearing along rivers in the The monastery is still very active with numer- of temples. valleys. If you have ever been to Nevada, you ous monks and lay people busy everywhere; The buildings are made of stone or clay have a glimpse of Tibet, except that Tibet is sometimes it was as if we had stepped back in bricks and are set up much like a fortress; the HUGE. The mountains are huge, the rivers are time. It was here that we saw a room filled with exterior walls are thick and slope inward as they huge, the distances are huge. We goggled the ancient texts, a hawk circling a sky-burial stupa rise up, the massive windows are numerous scenery, stopped at sacred lakes, visited another high above, and old women carrying mud bricks but always quite high, and the roof is a flat- monastery in Gyantse. We even took pictures on their backs up to men rebuilding walls. The Ti- tened Chinese-style. Red ochre color is used to next to an active glacier. We ended up driving betan people are still very involved in the happen- highlight the white-washed facade that seems along dirt roads for six hours up over 5,000-me- ings at their religious sites – it is their volunteer to hide the lovely courtyards, temples and living ter passes into the Tibetan Himalaya and the hard work and pilgrim’s devotion that keep these quarters within. town of Shigatse. places so amazing. As we visited these places, we found friendly Along the way we were truly able to learn We spent the evening in Shigatse and took monks dressed in their dark red and yellow robes. about Tibet and it’s people through conversation another full day along the dusty roads to reach And, as always, having children along helped with our guides. Both TseTan and Tsering (who the hamlet of Shegar. Watching the remote bar- ease the steps into conversation. joined us for this portion) ren landscape was fascinating as we tried to spy Few spoke English, but many were very open about their signs of life. Our daughter especially enjoyed times monks wanted to come MY PARADISE lives and love of their culture. spotting yaks grazing on meager grasses along over and hold our daughter, We found a new sense of “the middle the steep hillsides. see her blond hair and get a picture. way,” as the Dalai Lama would have it, when it Through the occasional village – maybe 10 As we walked through the Sera monastery, comes to opinions about Chinese rule in Tibet. houses – we were able to glimpse daily life for the our daughter was given a special blessing with The sizeable town of Shigatse has another Tibetan people as they washed in the cold river, ash placed on her nose from the altar burning famous monastery, the Tashilhunpo, where the plowed fields with yak-drawn equipment, or sat beneath the horse-head protector of children. Panchen Lama traditionally resides. The role of grinding grain. We stopped often for breaks; the Everywhere we went, Tibetans seemed eager to Panchen Lama in declaring the next Dalai Lama roads have strict speed limits monitored by peri- have their children play with ours. has created a tense situation between the Chinese odic checkpoints, so our tour guide’s technique Another outing found us being serenaded by government and Tibetans. The controversy lies was to drive fast and then take breaks to absorb the children at Dickey orphanage. We spent a in who and where the Panchen Lama is – with the additional time. It worked out great to meet warm afternoon playing with the children, letting Beijing claiming one person and the Dalai Lama locals and have a chance to play. them show off their rooms and art, and truly declaring it is another who disappeared at age 6. Traveling with children is such a joy as it appreciating the joy that can only come from The Panchen Lama alive at the time of the really breaks the ice with local people. I will never helping those less fortunate. Chinese invasion of Tibet supported the progress forget the vision of my daughter playing with After feeling like Lhasa was getting a bit to brought into the country by the Chinese, which five Tibetan kids out in front of their house; their touristy (which it isn’t), it was time to hit the meant the monastery was spared complete toy of choice was a broken machinery belt and open road and see what the ‘real’ Tibet was like. annihilation. He has since died, leaving the the dust. I will also never forget the views as we We boarded a minivan with our small tour group controversy in his wake and Tashilhunpo without traveled over 17,000-foot mountain passes. Not – about five other folk on adventures of their its traditional leader. The place is huge and sits sure what to expect, I was always shocked to see own. Then we drove for hours into the Tibetan up on a foothill above the city – visible for miles countryside. It is incredible and immense. while approaching. Inside is a vast network of See Tibet ON PAGE 10

Okinawa.Stripes.com • Guam.Stripes.com • Kanto.Stripes.com • Korea.Stripes.com 9 Mount Everest; she was a month shy of two at the pilgrimage route known as the Kora. the time. Of course, one of the few local families Starting at Jokhang Temple, the route circum- that live at the tiny seasonal tent village had a navigates all the highlights of the city - going past newborn baby. Base camp is really a small col- statues, prayer wheels, carved scriptures, and the Tibet lection of tents for tourists to bunk overnight or park at Potala Palace where we enjoyed the cool for trekking groups preparing their ascent. shade and a trip around the lake in a duck boat. Continued from page 9 The first climber’s base camp is visible Some shopping in the market rounded out our beyond here below the Rongbuk glacier at the Tibetan experience and made for a relaxing final such a giant expanse of more glorious ‘nothing’ base of the mountain. There are also about 30 day before boarding the Lhasa Express for a two- as far as the eye could see, plus nearby prayer yaks mulling about, a huge pole with thousands day train ride bound for Beijing. flags at the highest point and the occasional of prayer flag streamers hanging from it, and a Typically I plan all the details for our trips, farmer peddling yak pictures. Who can resist a small stone-walled ranger station. My daugh- but visiting Tibet it slightly more complex. In picture of your kid on a yak in Tibet? ter was fully obsessed with playing with the order to gain entry into Tibet, you must already Our fifth day in Tibet we woke before dawn rocks, dirt and yaks. The view, however, was the be in possession of a Chinese visa; for this I to get on the road. We were racing the sun to our highlight: Mount Everest shining white under a drove to the Chinese consul in Seoul where I last high pass and views of dawn over the highest crystal blue sky. filled out the paperwork and left my passports mountain in the world. But it was overcast. The The mountains surrounding us were simply and a hefty fee. sun did make a dramatic glowing appearance made of rock and scrabble, while a snow-cov- One week later I returned and picked them through a hole in the clouds, but, alas the big ered Everest lay between them, just beyond the up! Next, you must have a hand-written Ti- mountain was shrouded. Bummed, my daughter valley. We took a bazillion pictures! We wan- betan Travel permit signed within the week you and I went back to sleep as our minivan bumped dered. We got lunch at a restaurant tent. Then, travel, and you may not obtain one for yourself. and jostled the rough dirt road back down the before we left, we watched a quick-moving It is compulsory to enter Tibet and be on a tour other side. cloud form around Everest’s mid section like a with a tour guide or group that is approved by I awoke to the shock of my life. The clouds skirt. By the end of the afternoon the enigmatic the Tibetan Tourism Bureau. As long as you had parted and glorious Mount Qomolongma mountain would be hidden from view again. find a good tour guide, they will handle the Ti- (Everest) stood in all her glory showing off May is the best time to see Everest because betan permit details for you and ensure that you to the world. The van stopped at Rongbuk there is a better chance to get the experience we have the permit in hand before boarding a flight monastery – the highest in the world, and had, but it is still a long shot. or train into Lhasa. There are also additional as we drooled over the view, our guides took Returning to Lhasa was another two-day travel permits required for certain regions (like care of the paperwork necessary to make it event across the barren landscape of Tibet. We Mount Everest) within Tibet, whose complexi- through our final checkpoint and on to base enjoyed a new route following the Yarlung River ties should be handled by your guide. camp. There was a village feel to the area with through a slightly agricultural area. Returning to We found the people at TibetTravel.com 10 semi-permanent tents acting as restaurants, Lhasa after so many days on the road felt like re- to be super helpful and knowledgeable. They bunks, and the highest post office in the world. turning from another planet. Back in town with are also a fully local run guide group with very I have no way to verify this, but I believe my a renewed appreciation for the Tibetan people, reasonably priced small group tours. I highly daughter is the youngest non-Tibetan to visit we decided to join them for a day’s walk around recommend them.

10 Destination Paradise 2014

You’ll take in great “scenery ..., and get a great workout.” The impressive South Gate of Namhan Mountain Fortress The West Gate

o-workers used to ask me, what is the original fortification was made of wood and there to do while stationed in Korea? I timber in keeping with the style of the times, it remember laughing in reply. For some was in the 1600s during Yi Dynasty Korea that Ctime I have been completely enthralled with the stone-clad walls were first constructed on the site. history of East Asia, a history very different but Work continued on the fortress up until the 18th no less important that the Euro-centric ver- century when the grey brick parapets and cannon sion we learned as children. The thought that I embrasures were added. Command and control could possibly run out of things to see and do in of garrison personnel was executed by royal of- a country and culture as old as Korea was quite ficers in massive, wooden, two-story command funny to me then. It is no less so now. posts issuing orders to soldiers at gates and guard My favorite place in all of Korea is conve- posts spaced along the long wall. niently located on the outskirts of Seoul and is The fortress has borne witness to many of actually visible from the MWR golf course at Korea’s most turbulent historical events. These Sungnam. I’m talking about Namhan Mountain include anti-Japanese guerrilla activity during the Fortress or Namhansanseong, sometimes referred colonial period and anti- to as the Great Wall of Korea. government demonstrations The fortress consists of 11.7 MY PARADISE under successive military A walk kilometers of stone, masonry governments. Arguably, the walls, closely following the ter- site’s most famous moment came with the first rain as Korean fortifications generally do. These Manchu invasion of Korea in 1627. As a response long walls connect what is essentially five distinct to this massive incursion, Korean King Injo fled along the peaks, creating a massive, hollow interior filled to the sanctuary along with 13,800 soldiers and with numerous temples, palace compounds and a a personal bodyguard of 3,000 fighting monks. village. The massive fortification served as the last While the Manchus failed in every attempt to refuge of the Korean royalty, army and people for breach the great walls, the continued logisti- Great Wall centuries, and ultimately the very spot where the cal support of such a large force eventually took Korean king was forced to surrender his nation to its toll and after 47 days, the king was forced to invading Manchu hordes. surrender. Lost along with Korean self-determi- of Korea There has been a fortification of one type or nation was a long-standing relationship with Ming other on the site since A.D. 672 when a Uni- China and two princes taken as hostages by the fied Shilla Kingdom Manchus. This momentous event took place not was constructing far from where U.S. military personnel and their defenses against spouses daily tee up for 18 holes of golf Story and photos by Tang Dynasty at Sungnam Golf Course, oblivious to Marvin Haynes China. While the historical significance of the location. While the hands- down best time to make the trip

14 Destination Paradise 2014 The West Gate

is when the autumn foliage is at its over, peruse historical data posted brightest, I’ve made the trek in each in English and take pictures. of the four seasons and it is worth Hikers and foodies alike will a visit any time of the year. Check appreciate the small village located online before planning a visit, how- near the center of the fortress ever, as the location is closed to the “bowl.” The local specialty is “tot- public a couple times per year. tori,” a dark, brown flour made It takes roughly three and a half from acorns and most dishes are hours to complete the full circuit served with some type of acorn at a brisk hiking pace, and several product. Many familiar dishes are stretches are downright challenging served here substituting the tot- as the walls really do rise and fall tori for standard wheat flour and with the steep Korean ridgelines. the change in taste is memorable, The more adventurous hikers will adding yet another dimension to be thrilled with several kilometers the wide palette available in Korean of as yet un-restored wall sec- cuisine. Additionally, as with most tions along the Eastern side of the popular Korean hiking destina- fortress. This extension was built to tions, shops sell everything from cover perceived weaknesses in the back-packs to brand name attire to approaches to the fortress proper power bars. and is truly impressive, if difficult In addition to all this, within to access and—frankly—find. Still, the fortress walls lie over 200 it makes for a great tromp through buildings of historical significance. the woods uncovering further Chief amongst these are the walls, gates and cannon positions. Haenggung Temporary Palace, These few intrepid adventurers Jongmyo Royal Ancestral Shrine will find themselves in possession and Sajik, an important alter for of a knowledge of the fortress far royal sacrifices. Additionally, four surpassing that of the more than 3 temples remain within the stone million average visitors each year. walls, Gaewonsa, Mangwolsa, Jang- Casual hikers will find a network gyeongsa and Hyeonjeolsa, each of of hiking trails criss-crossing the which is worth a closer look though interior of the fortress. These it would indeed be a long day to are delightful walks through the hike the entire wall and then walk voluminous forest, anchored at to each of the temples. each end by the restored masonry Lying so close to Seoul, there of the walls. While the trek around really is no excuse not to make the the perimeter can be quite a hike, trip down to visit such an histori- these shorter courses are a bit less cally and culturally significant site. adventurous but still provide a You’ll take in great scenery, learn a pretty good feel for the immensity thing or two about Korea, eat well of this historical defensive work. and get a great workout, escaping Regardless of which method of the pollution and traffic of Seoul. viewing the fortress you choose, All-in-all, a trip to Namhansanseong each of the four major gates as well is a day well spent for those seeking as the numerous smaller “secret” interesting activities while stationed gates is worth the time to climb in, or simply visiting, Korea.

Seojangdae Command Post where King Injo oversaw the defense.

Watch where “you’re stepping when on the sandy shores in this area of India.” Auto-rickshaw is the convenient way to travel in India. I’m the guy in the middle.

uper! Super! Mr.!... Super!!!” package deal that came with a plane ticket, A crowd of smiling local children hotel and dining. I wanted to immerse myself shouted with enthusiasm from the in the local culture. I also wanted to surf in an “Sbeach as I finished riding a glassy, head-high ocean blue where few others venture. wave in the point break. My first stop was Mamallapuram, located The youngsters were excited and amazed 55 kilometers from Chen¬nai, the capital city to see something they had never witnessed in of Tamilnadu province. This fishing town on their lives: surfing. Yes, I was in southern India, the Bay of Bengal is one of the most frequented the last resort. tourist destinations in Tamilnadu. The smell of spices, coconut trees, Hindu People come from afar to visit the Shore temples and chai on the street corners; the Temple. More than 1,400 years old, this temple sound of car horns and mooing sits on the edge of the sea cows; and the pure smiles and protected by a row of of the local people created MY PARADISE bulls carved out of rock. It a unique ambience. It was is absolutely mesmerizing when lit neither a luxury beach resort nor a packed with by moonlight. Culture the chaos of an overpopulated country. I also had a chance to view Shore Temple India was different from what I imagined. from my surf board. The powerful breaks in I discovered southern India to be a land of front of the temple were awesome. But I will myths, mysteries and mag¬nificent structures. tell you that the water was polluted and quite shock in From the beaches to the mountains, it’s pictur- murky. In fact, I had to go to the local doc- esque and gives off a beach town vibe where tor for antibiotics after scraping my leg and people can kick back. I imagine it to be quite waking up ill the next morning. That’s a whole India different from the northern part of India. other story. I traveled to India for a month because I Also in this area is “Krishna’s Butterball,” a wanted to explore and experience new things. huge boulder resting precariously on a narrow And I wanted to go at it alone. I didn’t buy a rock base. Legend has it that several Pallava Story and photos by Tetsuo Nakahara

Locals take care of their business on the beach in Vishakapatnam. Local women sells fruits and vegetable under the 18 Destination Paradise 2014 tree at the market in Mamallapuram. Sadhu wait for a meal at Sri Ramana Ashram. kings attempted to move the boulder. physically exhausted. They didn’t budge it. Not even with the Now back to surfing. My dream help of elephants. I spent part of a lazy surf spot of this trip was near Vizag. I afternoon kicked back under the shade stopped the rickshaw driver at the point of this huge rock. of a cliff. The waves below were lined up Eating in India During my stay in India, I also had an over the horizon. It was beautiful and Rice is the staple food for the people in southern India. opportunity to stay in Sri Ramana Ash- there was no one in the water. I had the The combination of sambhar, or curry, with white rice, is ram, which was the home of philoso- whole place to myself. I was stoked. the favored food among the locals. If you go to one of the pher Ramana Maharshi (1879-1950). That night after hitting the waves, local shops, you may be encouraged to eat with your right Located at the foot of the beautiful I ended up staying in the home of the hand because that is the local style. You’ll find just how mountain Arunachala in Tamil Nadu, village leader for a week. I had asked vil- difficult it is to eat rice with your fingers. However, you thousands flock here yearly to find peace lagers where I could find a hotel or guest will find that it helps with blending food together, which within oneself. The ashram was a perfect house. They said there weren’t any, but enhances the taste. By the way, your stomach can be place to practice meditation and feel the the village leader offered me to stay at upset easily in India, so it’s a good idea to bring your own holiness of the Indian culture. his home. It was wonderful experience medicine from home. One of my other unforgettable that will last a lifetime. But I had to note experiences in India was a 13-hour train that most of local people do not have ride from Chennai to Vishakapatnam toilets in their homes, so they take care (known as Vizag). With the train of their business on the beach. Yes, on running through many small towns, I the beach. So watch where you’re step- was able to get a glance of the country’s ping when on the sandy shores in this poverty. It also gave me a chance to talk area of India. with the locals, many of whom were Traveling to the southern part of fascinated with my surf board. Several India was truly a once-in-a-lifetime of them felt the need to bang on my surf experience. It was calm, chaotic and board over and over again while asking, beautiful. But it also opened my eyes to “What is this?” After the long ride, I was how others around the world live.

An Indian convenience store is Local children work on their homework outside. Surfers head to the water in Mamallapuram. open for business.

My daughter “enjoyed racing the dinosaurs and

found that she My family walked where dinosaurs once roamed.

ou are standing at the muddy shallow edge We started our trip the day prior, driving south is as fast as a of a giant lake looking out along it’s coast at and making a stop at the mountain top temple of the scenery. A huge verdant plain stretches Munsuam. From here we could take in the impres- raptor.” Yaway from the lake ending at a dark green forest. sive view of the sea to the south and get a lay of the In the far distance you can make out the telltale land – it is very mountainous in this part of Korea shape of a volcanic mountain. The thing that strikes and the islands make it seem as though the land you most, however, is the myriad of creatures simply crumbles out into the ocean. The sky was that call this place home. There are a few herds of warm and sunny and in the blue waters below we ornithipods, those gentle plant-eating two-legged could see many green islands; quite a few of them creatures, gathered at the water’s edge eating. make up the Hallyeo National Marine Park. We en- Some have amazing duck-bill features while others joyed the giant gold Buddha and the walk up to the resemble good old Iguanodon. temple carved in the side of the cliff, but the view There are a few mothers tending nest’s of eggs. was the real appeal here. In the flat savannah you can see a gathering of big From the temple we continued our trek into the long-necked four-legged sauropods swishing their southern part of Sacheon City, the nearest local huge tales and grazing on the trees at the edge of town. The kids were so excited because as soon as the forest. They move toward the lake and then we passed into Goseong County there were dino- walk along the muddy edge into the distance. It saur characters on all the signs and random dino- is mystical until you see the predators following saur statues along the roadways. the herds; a few therapods: In fact, the bus stop shelters Tracking bipedal meat eaters at the top MY PARADISE were all dinosaur shaped! We of the food chain. searched for a cheap motel and Flash forward 100 million found a great one that I knew my daughter would dinosaurs years and you instead see a reckless five-year- love; it had a Parisian theme complete with fancy old girl following in the footsteps of those giant furniture and a round bed. If you are ever travelling creatures - literally. It’s misting out, but we are still in Korea without a hotel reservation you are in for at the edge of the water. This time it’s the sea. The the best most interesting deals; the small ‘love mo- in Korea ground is no longer muddy, but has instead formed tels’ don’t generally book online. When you get to into sedimentary rock in the time since the dino’s your destination just look for “모텔” and the wavy- roamed. Out of nowhere a 2-year-old terror comes lines sauna sign. Go in and ask about room costs ( running at you and falls on the slippery rocks into bang olma-yay-yo), if the price is right then ask to one of the many tide pools that occupy the cracks in see a room (pway yo) before agreeing to stay (nay!). Story and photos by the rock. He has drenched another pair of pants. Remember, pointy talky and facial expression go a Kat Nickola This was our family’s most recent long weekend long way. Our family of four always crams into one spent in Goseong-gun, the self-proclaimed “land room, and typically the motel will give us a sleeping of the dinosaurs.” It is a small county in the state of mat for the kids on the nice warm ondol floor. Gyeongsangnam-do at the far south central part of We woke to find an overcast sky, but warm- the Korean peninsula. During the middle Creta- ish temperatures. Undeterred, we drove about 10 ceous, some 100 million (or so), years ago it was minutes to the Goseong Dinosaur museum. The at the edge of a big lake whose monsoon weather approach itself was a highlight as the kids counted dramatically varied the lake’s water levels. This the dinosaur-shaped lampposts up over the hill allowed for mud flats to form and the dinosaurs ap- and then goggled at the view of the Dinosaur-esque parently loved tromping through the mud as their shape of the museum itself perched on a cliff over fossilized footprints remain to prove it. The area is the ocean. When we arrived, however, we were now a gorgeous blend of inland mountains, rocky shocked to find the car park empty – ours was the sea cliffs, and off shore islands in a fairly sparsely second car of the day. I worried it was closed, but it populated part of Korea. In other words: it’s an wasn’t. This just isn’t the crowded-with-Koreans at- 22 Destination Paradise 2014 outdoor family’s dream. traction that so many places up north are. Since the area is so hilly, there is an escalator to triumphantly rabbits and deer to see. In a separate building just cliffs to a stony beach take you up the hill from the car to the museum downhill from the museum is a hands-on facility and then continued entrance. The fee is a super cheap 3,000 won for where kids can make dinosaur models and other around to the next in- adults and 1,500 won for kids. Inside the museum dino-related crafts for a small fee. Outside, the let. Well, the storms it’s ALL dinosaurs: many fossil skeletons crowded view out over the sea is spectacular, and it’s the the previous fall into a couple wings, a huge skeleton- filled atrium, perfect spot to stop for some lunch. Be sure to had ripped it apart a lower level with a walk-through reproduction pack some food with you; there is only a small quite a bit. With the of cretaceous time, and some hands-on activities. snack stand at the museum. tide low the deck My daughter enjoyed racing the dinosaurs and Beyond the fenced area occupied by the mu- isn’t necessary, so found that she is as fast as a raptor. One thing that seum and its dinosaur park is the local Sangjogam we enjoyed really impressed my husband and I were the actual County Park. So, after spending over an hour following the fossils on display. Most museums only have fossil playing around we walked down the stairs over route along replica’s out to view, but this place had a few REAL the cliff edge to see some real fossils. This part is the rocky fossils still half-buried in stone within special a little tricky as you need to plan your day around shore finding atmospherically controlled cases to look at. The the tides. more dinosaur kids, of course, liked any computer touch-screen Calling ahead is very helpful. Call the Korean trackways and that had cool graphics about dinosaurs. These are tourist helpline at 055-1330 and have them call the collecting tiny all in Korean, but easy enough to get the point. dinosaur museum at 055-670-2828 to find out the shells. At the The museum also contains a great display about low tide for the day you will visit. We lucked out stony beach dinosaur footprint fossils – this is, after all, the and low tide was around 3 p.m., so by the time we we followed a local area’s claim to fame. My two year old son also were done with all the fun on the museum grounds trail back up really enjoyed the 3D video offered in the small the water at the base of the cliff was on its way out. to the dinosaur theater. It is a fictional cartoon story about a dino- This is when the trip turns from neat to amaz- museum and saur that gets stuck in our time, which causes all ing. At the base of the sea cliffs the shore is made returned to our the dinosaurs and fossils at the museum to come of slabs of rock out into the sea. Impressed on car the fun way: a slide. Yes, there is a slide to go alive. It’s ... great for kids. these rocks are dinosaur footprints! A real fossil- back down the hill to your vehicle! In all, the museum is nice and quiet modern, ized trackway of a sauropod wandering a Creta- After such an adventure, the kids were tired and but the grounds outside make the whole experi- ceous lakeshore. In addition to that, the cliffs have instantly napped in the car. ence well worth the trip. Beyond the museum is been eroded to form some huge sea caves. While My husband and I took advantage of the time a huge ‘dinosaur park’ occupying the rest of the it was slippery, and the water was cold, both my to explore the local area and check out other cliff top. Here is where the kids can run off some kids had such fun running around on the rocks and dinosaur trackway sites. There are at least 4,300 steam! There are three or four playground areas, exploring the caves. From here a deck walkway lots of dinosaur statues, a maze, and even some used to follow the edge of the water around the See dinosaurs ON PAGE 24 Soak up the sun in

Phuket, y paradise is Phuket, Thailand. up without the aid of an alarm, put on our Perhaps it was the timing – we were swimsuits, grab breakfast at the resort, and long overdue for a vacation and it head to the beach until noon. About noon we Mwas low season so not so many tourists and would stroll back to the resort for lunch for Thailand prices were cheap. But this was the best vaca- whatever we wished to eat which was very tion for my family and me! peaceful with a one- and three-year-old. The I cannot tell you about the drinking scene staff catered to our children like family and or the scandalous night life but I can those mean lime mixed Story and photos by describe to you the most drinks were addicting. peaceful week in Thailand. MY PARADISE After lunch, we relaxed at Nicole Henley A week is not enough, but the resort pool for the rest of you will get a good glimpse of this culture the afternoon. And by the way, we had three that has terrific customer service, fresh exotic pools to choose from and each one was clean fruits, spicy chilies that you will want to put and clear. on every bite of food, and sandy beaches that I still crave those spicy chilies and that beg you to lie out and catch some sun rays. warm sun blanketing us on the smooth, sandy We fell into a daily routine that wasn’t beach. It was such an affordable vacation and forced and was one to envy. We would wake one I always recommend to others.

we got great service from the proprietor who still made us a delicious meal even though her kitchen was getting renovated. In fact, we were Dinosaurs so excited to be staying right near the footprints that we took an evening hike in the misty rain Continued from page 23 along the shore and found that the boardwalk trail continues intact even farther along the cliff tops to a third inlet where the little village has a summer swimming and water park. My kids are For more information: excited to go back as the seasons change. In the morning, the tide was at its lowest, eng.dinopark.net exposing a huge number of dinosaur trackways of many different kinds. This is where we were – Website for Sangjogam county park visualizing the Cretaceous, as my daughter with a wealth of dinosaur information, walked along all the footprints telling me about local dinosaur knowledge, and a listing each dinosaur and my son fell into one tide pool of all the dinosaur fossil trackway sites in after another. After the novelty of the fossils Korea (and the world). wore away the kids became fascinated by all the creatures living in the tide pools. They enjoyed eng.goseong.go.kr watching the anemones recoil when touched and – Website for Goseong-gun with tourist chasing tiny crabs around. We had such a good information for the area including the time we wandered all the way back around the museum, county park, local temples, inlet to the sea caves which seemed much more mountain trails, and boats out to massive at low tide. As the weather warms I can the Hallyeo marine park. fossil footprints and nest sites in the vicinity, see Goseong-gun becoming more crowded, and they are all well signposted from the but for us, the completely deserted museum.goseong.go.kr road. Off the road you are on your own to rocky shore was heaven. Con- – Website for the Goseong find them! In the evening, we stayed at the versations on the way home Dinosaur Musuem. This site is ONLY motel (there are two minbak) in the included plans to return only in Korean, however, the “ 01 tiny Jejeon village adjacent to the dinosaur and extend the VR” link at the center of the page museum and county park. V-Motel ended trip out to the opens an awesome cyber tour of the up being quite nice, and as the only visitors islands. museum and local sites.

24 Destination Paradise 2014

At night, we found “ourselves shivering half asleep under thin blankets.”

The Spanish colonial architecture of Vigan City, Ilocos Sur. Photo courtesy of Philippine Department of Tourism

he Philippines is a country blessed with We enjoyed traditional performances by nature, rich culture and arts, delicious dancers and singers in native attire. We also pe- cuisine and warmhearted people. rused a trove of religious art, such as silver altars, T This country is a great combination of gilded “carrozzas” (floats) and ivory-headed stat- Western and Asian influences surrounded by ues at the private museum of the Escudero family. natural beauty. One of our most fun experiences in the village Whenever I travel to this country with my was a native-style lunch near a sparkling waterfall. wife and daughter it always welcomes us with We sat at bamboo tables and chairs at the bottom beautiful views, old colonial townscapes, good of a waterfall soaking our feet as we enjoyed local food and the brilliant smiles of the local people. cuisine served on banana leaves. The coconut- Treasures Among countless attractions throughout the flavored chicken and fish were delicious and well- Philippines, I have three favorites which are ideal suited for our lunch at a coconut plantation. for families to visit on short day trips from Manila – Caliraya Lake, Villa Escudero and the artist Caliraya Lake near the village of Angono. They are all located around the Laguna de Bay, a few hours drive from the You might be thinking the Philippines is hot country’s captital. and humid everywhere, but that is not true. I was In fact, the routes to the sites themselves are surprised to find cooler climate when my family Pearl of the attractive. Mountainous terrain offers spectacu- and I visited the Caliraya Lake in East Laguna. lar vistas of big Laguna de Bay Lake and the When we were there last, it was nearly 50 degrees great scenic mountains of Banahaw, Cristobal Fahrenheit cooler than Manila. Orient and Makiling. “That is because of strong mountain breeze blowing from Mount Banahaw and the Sierra Villa Escudero Madre Mountain Ranges, besides its high alti- tude,” explained Danny Viceo, my brother in law Villa Escudero may be the best place to go and guide. “It is nearly 400 meters above sea level Story and photos by if you want to see the rural Philippines without where cool wind blows all the time.” Takahiro Takiguchi traveling too far from Manila. Carabao-drawn We had stayed overnight to enjoy camp- carriages, a coconut plantation and native cot- ing and jet-skiing in the cool mountain air. But tages with thatched roofs overlooking Labasin beware: We didn’t imagine how much cooler Lake, provide a great snapshot of rural Filipino it would be and didn’t bring jackets. At night, life. In the village, you can experience the Philip- we found ourselves shivering half asleep under pines’ rich cultural heritage, history and cuisine in thin blankets. an ideal rural setting. With its submerged hills, gigantic volcanic Villa Escudero is an old coconut plantation rocks, red-clay shorelines and pebbled shores, founded in the late 19th century. Since it was Caliraya Lake looks like it is part of ancient opened to the public about 30 years ago, it has kingdom ruins. The grey-green colored water offered visitors the glimpses of plantation life. My adds to the air of mystique. Few would guess that family and I spent a day there walking around the the lake was artificially created as a reservoir for a Victorian-style garden and riding in a carabao- hydroelectric power plant in the 1930s. drawn carriage through coconut groves as local “This lake is not only a good place for boating, 26 Destination Paradise 2014 musicians serenaded us with folk songs. wind surfing and water skiing,” a local told me. A Carabao-drawn carriage in Villa Escudero

A pre-lunch photo op in Villa Escudero

Carabao draw the attention of all ages in Villa Escudero. Visitors admire renowned painter Rafael Pacheco’s work in Angono Village.

“But it also provides an ideal fishing spot, espe- in painting, they produced professional works cially for black bass fishing.” In fact, I saw a few of art so lifelike as to be compared to high- visitors enjoy fishing on the lake. resolution photographs. Besides the richness in Jet skiing on Caliraya Lake In all, Caliraya Lake’s heavenly atmosphere contrasts of light and shade, their works were and cool climate offer an ideal rest, escape from so minute and accurate that I wondered if they hot and humid Manila. really were paintings. I was impressed with the fact that all the sev- Angono Village en children used the same painting style as their father to depict their rural lives. Their artworks The artists Village of Angono in Rizal is unfor- are full of affection and compassion toward the gettable. The village is known as the art capital of subjects, making them very attractive. You can the Philippines, where many gifted artists live and see in the paintings how much the Blancos love ply their crafts. It is the hometown of each other, and how strong two great national artists, mu- their bond is. ralist Botong Francisco and MY PARADISE We also visited the composer Lucio San Pedro. studio of a finger painter, Rafael Children at Mt. Pinatubo Both have inspired generations of artists to Pacheco, and participated in his workshop and create a variety of artworks. lecture demonstration. To my surprise, Pacheco Pacheco said during a workshop. Maybe his There are a number of art galleries and completed a minute painting full of religious concern is what drives him to create such unique studios within the village, such as Blanco Fam- sublimity by using his bare fingers, knuckles and masterpieces with traditional and ethnic themes. ily Museum, Nemiranda Arthouse & Gallery, palms within only 20 minutes. Like Blanco, Pa- We were really impressed with all great art- Tiamson Art Gallery, Ang Nuno Artists Founda- checo was also self-taught. The touch, colors and ists we met during our visit to this village. tion Gallery, Village Artists Gallery and more. structure of his paintings were so unique – they These are just a few examples of the hun- My family and I were able to visit some of them, were very romantic and sublime, yet very colorful dreds of places worth visiting in the Philippines. including Blanco Family Museum, which exhibits and vivid. I encourage you to visit any one or all of them to paintings by Jose Blanco and his seven children, “I am concerned that rich tradition and cus- experience some of the charm this country has to all of whom are still painting. toms of the Philippines might be exterminated offer. It is sure to be an experience that you will Although unable to afford classical training in the near future as modernization progresses,” not soon forget.

I was the only soul in “our family who braved the healing but freezing cold mud.”

Dad and daughter enjoying a walk in the countryside after a day of rock climbing.

ave you ever seen a traditional Chinese The approach to the climb was an idyllic jaunt painting with a river running between past paddy fields complete with water buffalo dramatically steep mountains, verdant grazing. The rock climbing was top notch! Ev- Hmisty valleys, maybe a little rice paddy off to the erything from 5.6 easy ups to challenging 5.11 side, and a guy in a bamboo raft trolling down routes to tackle. Limestone cliffs emerge from the center? Well, that is Yangshou. China, the dramatic green mountains and make for an yes China, is my version of paradise. For a awesome adventure; there are many different family who loves being outdoors, being active climbing areas. A perfect day of climbing must together, and experiencing interesting culture, be followed with some delicious noodles from a this place has it all. We went in May when the nearby road stall while waiting for the minibus weather was warm and comfortable during the to appear. day, and cool in the evening. That same limestone also provides for The quaint town rests along the Li numerous local caves to River, and the low cost of visit. We especially enjoyed things makes a river front MY PARADISE visiting the Water Cave. To Idyllic hotel room a reality even for enter we boarded a rickety unstable families on a budget. A few blocks deeper into canoe piloted by a weathered elderly man who town is an outdoor shopping market that turns was quite skillful in navigating the craft into Yongshou, into nightlife galore after the sun sets. There is the entrance to the cave. It was a bit low, so we really something here for everyone; unless you all needed to duck under the hanging rocks. enjoy big budgets, big crowds, and Inside we were dropped off and allowed to tourist trodden routes. explore the well-trodden path through the cave China The steep karst topography on our own and enjoyed the amazing collec- makes the area a rock climb- tion of still-active stalactites and stalagmites. ing paradise; small minibuses At the end of the trail we were invited travel out of town to all the to enjoy the mud bath! After changing into best sites. We crammed swimsuits behind a not-super private curtain Story and photos by into one with a guide who I was the only soul in our family who braved Kat Nickola simply yelled at the driver the healing but when it was time to stop on freezing cold the side of the road at the mud. My “wine bottle” area. husband and kiddo were waiting for the next part: the hot springs. I was unceremoniously hosed off and then we walked further up into the cave where a series of hot-spring fed pools cascaded down a huge mountain

My daughter with a Cormorant fisherman as he got 30 Destination Paradise 2014 ready for the evening’s catch. My family on our scooter rental exploring the countryside around Yangshou. The author, Kat, rock climbing outside of town. within the cave. After testing a few we found the rapids. In calmer portions we passed men stalls, tourist items, local minorities selling the pools near the middle-top to be the right fishing and women washing clothes in the river. their crafts, and lots of food and drink options. temperature and settled in. Ahhhh! In our We found the local people to be so very kind Further away are more necessities for daily life: a own time we dried and dressed and caught and helpful; everyone wanted to introduce their bustling food and meat market, banks, schools, the next boat out into the daylight. children to our blond daughter who enjoyed and the shops of normal life. It is an easy place The water seeping from these mountains the playmates. to bike around with lots of local people on bikes empties into the Li River, which runs through Another way to explore the dirt roads along or scooters, the occasional buffalo-drawn cart, town. We rented a scooter one day to explore the river is to rent a bicycle. and less vehicle traffic than other Chinese cities. the gorgeous countryside. It was fun to travel At first we were concerned about renting and We spent three days in Yangshou during a around the small hamlets, see rice paddy’s carrying a child in the kid carrier on our backs, month long trip to China. It was our first stop, actively plowed with water buffalo, and watch but the Chinese have a solution for everything. and we still wish we would’ve stayed longer. the cormorant fishermen readying for an They affixed a small basket-chair to the back rack To get there, you must fly or take the train into evening on the river. Another highlight was of the bike for our daughter, so we could all travel Guilin and then get a ride to Yangshou from your taking a bamboo raft down the river; a guide in comfort! When we tired of the rural scenery hotel or a local bus. Chinese visa’s are a must shuttled our scooter to the other end while and returned to town we found Yangshou to be for this trip; so be sure to arrange those ahead we enjoyed riding the raft. The man steering such a pleasant place. There is the scenic of time. Our hotel, The Riverview, offered a car would point out interesting rock formations old-town area nearest the river. and driver for $10 each way and tell us “feets up” as we rolled down Here you can find market of the hour-long trip.

The truth is that the “sand is so heavy you Beppu Kaihin Sunayu. Photo by Takeshi Hanai oaking in a natural hot spring, or “onsen,” is powers of its myriad of springs, Beppu at- one of the most popular Japanese pastimes tracts more than 12 million visitors each year. can’t move once during the cold winter months. I know just Nestled between the mountains and the sea, Sthe place to enjoy this truly amazing way to kick the city is divided into eight different hot you’re buried.” back and take in nature – a must-do activity spring areas. Each area has a variety of accom- while you’re in the Land of the Rising Sun. modations, from traditional “ryokan” inns to Beppu, Oita Prefecture on Japan’s southern modern spa resorts. island of Kyushu is what is known as the nation’s Enjoy a leisurely stroll around old Beppu hot springs capital. The city boasts the second where the odor of sulphur from hot springs fills largest volume of hot spring waters in the world, the air. You will probably see locals walking with after Yellowstone National Park in the U.S. their bath buckets, towels and Beppu has more than soap, heading to one of the 2,800 hot spring vents, many town onsen. There are which unleash more than MY PARADISE several public onsen in walking 27,000 gallons of hot water distance from JR Beppu Station. Many are small, per minute. In Japan, there are 11 different rustic and old; however, they are cherished by categories of hot springs, which are classified locals, and part of their lifelong daily routines. according to their mineral composition, such Admission is only 100 to 200 yen ($1 to $2) at Getting as sulfur, alkaline soda, hydrogen carbonate or these public hot springs. They are well worth acidic – each said to help cure different types a try for a good soak, and a chance to soak in a of ailments. Only in Beppu can you enjoy 10 of rare glimpse of old-town charm. these 11 types of springs – each with its own In Beppu, you can also experience some into hot color, smell and efficacy – to find out which one unique onsen treatments such as sand baths, you like best. where you are buried from the neck down in water in Because of the legendary therapeutic black, heated sand. At Beppu Kaihin Sunayu, you Beppu, Japan

Story and photos by Tetsuo Nakahara

Hell hopping Sea Hell “Jigoku meguri,” or hells hopping, is famous attraction in Beppu. There are eight “hells” in Beppu which are multicolored volcanic springs that are meant for viewing only because they are too hot to bathe in. Each hell boasts its own theme, such as Sea Hell (consisting of bright, cobalt-blue hot water), Monk’s Hell (where the emerging grey bubbles look like the shaved heads of monks), or Blood Pond Hell (where hot water containing red melted clay gushes out). Six of the hells are located in the 34 Destination Paradise 2014 Kannawa district and two in the Shibaseki district. Monkey Mountain Onsen etiquette: Mount Takasaki is also a popular sightseeing spot in Beppu, thanks When in Rome, do as the Romans. The same to more than 1,000 wild monkeys goes for an “onsen,” or Japanese hot spring. that live there. The monkeys are fed Onsen are public spaces where people come to regularly by park wardens in order relax and enjoy. It is the perfect opportunity to to keep them on the mountain and communicate with locals while sharing a bath. There are, however, some must-dos and don’ts. to prevent conflicts with farmers and residents in the neighborhood; Wash before soaking: Everyone shares the admission is 500 yen ($5). 1. onsen water. To keep it clean, it’s important For more information on Takasaki to wash and rinse yourself thoroughly with soap Yama, visit www.takasakiyama.jp/ and water from a nearby tap before getting into takasakiyama/en an onsen. (Soap and shampoo may be provided.) Tidy up your space for others after you finished washing. Make sure that no soap gets into the onsen water. pay 1,000 yen at the entrance and receive a huge amount of mud in the bottom of the “yukata,” or traditional Japanese bath clothes. bath, this onsen is absolutely unique. You Strip down: In an onsen, wearing a large You put them on and walk to an area right on rub the mud unto your body and let it sit for 2. towel or a swimsuit is forbidden, unless it the beach and friendly attendants bury you a while because it is supposed to make your is a spa or similar facility that expressly requires in hot black sand. (I thought, “Wouldn’t it be skin very smooth. It contains lots of metals it. You must disrobe completely. If you find the nice to be buried here when it’s time to go six such as 195 milligrams of iron and 107 mil- idea of appearing naked in front of others too uncomfortable, private baths are available feet under?”) ligrams of aluminum per kilogram of water. for a fee. The truth is that the sand is so heavy you There are both indoor and outdoor baths. can’t move once you’re buried, so this may The outdoor bath is for men and women, Chill out: An Onsen is a place to relax. No not be for everyone. (I had a fly buzzing but there is a divider in the middle separat- 3. jumping into the water or swimming. Loud around my head that I could not shoo away; ing the two. boisterous talking should also be avoided. one sand bath is probably going to be enough If you are lucky, one of the locals may for me.) After 15 minutes, you will be rescued show you the way to a secret hot spring that Wear a ‘head towel’: You will see many by an attendant and can head for the indoor can only be reached by hiking a mountain. 4. people wearing small wash towels on their heads while soaking in an onsen. This is because shower and bath. It is quite refreshing and Watching large clouds of steam rise from the you should never rinse or let your towel touch the warms you to the core. You can also enjoy natural hot springs over the mountains as water. So what better place to keep it? A towel sand baths at Takegawara Onsen (100 yen you soak is truly an unforgettable experience. wet with cold water is also a good way to keep admission 1,000 yen for the bath), the city’s from overheating. most famous and oldest onsen that dates back to the Meiji Era (1868-1912). Towel off: Before entering the changing There is also a mud bath at Beppu Onsen 5. room after bathing, towel off excess water Hoyo Land, admission is 1,050 yen. With a to keep the floor dry and safe for others. Take a break: Some say that soaking in hot 6. onsen water can consume as much energy as running at full speed. It is important get out of the water and rest from time to time, and make sure you don’t get dehydrated. You may also want to avoid soaking after drinking alcohol, vigorous exercise or immediately before or after eating.

In most onsen, taking photographs is not 7. allowed.

It may be too bad for ‘tattoo you’

In most onsen, or hot springs, people with tattoos are not allowed to enter. This is because, historically, tattoos have been associated with “yakuza,” or gangsters in Japan (stemming from an even earlier practice of tattooing known criminals for identification). Although many younger people have tattoos for fashion these days, the practice of shunning the tattooed still persists (in many public bathhouses and commercial gyms, as well). The Sea Hell Monk’s Hell Blood Pond Hell rule also applies to foreigners. So, you may be refused entry into an onsen if you have very visible tattoos. If you have smaller less visible tattoos, however, it may be possible to cover them with a waterproof bandage. Another option is to use an onsen with a private bath. However, there will be an additional cost. From our perch on the “elephants we could see huge cliffs rising up to form the Mekong river valley.”

My son exploring the beach along the Mekong.

he country of Laos has an amazingly the conflict with Vietnam. However, it was all but intricate history full of kings and takeovers, impossible to maintain neutrality with the North French occupation and covert missions. Vietnamese constantly in Laos running supplies TIts ties to the West are deep and longstanding, along the bordering Ho Chi Minh trail. which makes for a fascinating visit. Laos asked the U.S. for assistance, and in 1966 Family The arms of French colonial culture still wrap the covert Raven FAC mission was born. The Ra- around this place, and the echoes of secretive ven FACs (Forward Air Controllers) were U.S. Air American assistance can still be heard. Officially Force pilots chosen for their flying experience in explores called the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, the Vietnam; they were secretly stationed at airfields country is now communist but has begun to open throughout Laos, including Long Thieng and its doors wide for tourists. Few come, which is Luang Prabang. These guys didn’t go to work in why it is such a wonderful place to go. uniforms and didn’t carry an American ID. Tech- mysteries, This is especially true in the ancient capital nically they were under the jurisdiction of the Air city of Luang Prabang. Walking amongst the city’s Attaché to the Laos Embassy, but the CIA really purely southeast Asian temples will carry you called the shots. Their mission: to support the into ancient times. Then you round a Royal Laotian Army on the mystique of corner onto a quaint street lined ground as they pushed out with French-colonial shops and MY PARADISE the North Vietnamese and street vendors selling baguettes. to suppress the Pathet Laos com- Laos It’s this combination of ancient culture and colo- munist insurgency. The Raven FACs flew low and nial remnants that puts the entire town on the list slow in 0-1’s, U-17’s (a Cessna 185), and T-28’s. of UNESCO world heritage sites. Sometimes they carried a Laotian to translate The baguettes are delicious; stuffed with any with troops on the ground. Other times they sandwich filling you can imagine or simply eaten were observers or flew reconnaissance missions Story and photos by plain with their wonderful crusty rind. This is looking for targets, but mostly they provided air how my children liked them. We would spend strikes for Laotian ground troops under attack. Kat Nickola our day rambling from temple to temple visiting There is nothing left in Luang Prabang to with the young monastic initiates, eating crusty even acknowledge the Raven FACs ever existed, bread at outdoor stalls, going on an afternoon but as the kids and I landed at the same airport, adventure, and spending the evening at the night their spirits in the mist could be felt. As we market. The pace of life, and vacation, is slower explored the local area we could imagine the and more rhythmic in Luang Prabang. tough and steely pilots negotiating the dramatic It hasn’t always been that way. The town karst hills, flying along the Mekong river valley, has been its own city state, absorbed into Thai and keeping an eye out for the enemy. The pilots occupation, Khmer occupation, French colonial- weren’t in it for the glory or reward; quite the ism, a royal seat of government, and was secretly opposite, as their existence would be denied. So, involved in the Second Indochina War (Vietnam why did they go? I would venture to guess it was War). The country was officially neutral during pure crazy adventure seeking; danger and thrill

36 Destination Paradise 2014 Novice monks out for a walk. My two children and I enjoy the comforts of traveling. rolled into one – The true spirit of the fighter with tents at dusk. Local people and minority and gold leaf statue was made in the 1st century pilot. Now, thankfully, there is no enemy and groups from the surrounding area bring handi- in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). It came to Laos in we can once again take in the tranquil joys of crafts, metal works, paper craft and quilts to the 1350s via the ancient Khmer Empire’s capital this beautiful country. sell. There is also plenty of street food and many city of Angkor in what is now Cambodia. Its The day after our arrival, I loaded the kids into open-front cafes serving dinner. origins are treated as fact by the local Buddhist a van and we rode out to the Kuang Si waterfalls This is not a party town, thank goodness, and community, as is the statue’s traditional power of for an afternoon of swimming. The falls are re- things close up early for a good night’s sleep. providing the right to rule to the city who owns ally a long series of cascades and pools that flow Morning comes quickly in Luang Prabang. it. This kind of ancient history, that is still alive along the river below a 200-foot-high waterfall. At 4 a.m. the deep gongs of the 32 city Buddhist today, can be seen further afield, too. It is a site to behold, and there were lots of people temples begin to sound as the novice monks On another day in Luang Prabang, the kids that day taking it in. rise for morning meditations and rituals. This and I rode north along the river to a small town Fortunately, there is lots of room to explore is the heart of the city. There are thousands of called Pak Ou. We enjoyed an elephant ride and we found a great pool downstream that a young monks here because of the concentra- along the banks of the river, and a small 3-year- had a shallow entry perfect for swimming. The tion of temples, and at dawn they begin to old baby elephant joined us. My daughter took water was freezing, but our bodies adjusted. My process along the streets collecting food dona- a special liking for the baby and was given the kindergarten daughter spent her time trying to tions - merit from Buddhist followers – as their chance later to have some feeding time with it. catch the little fish in the pool with bags from the primary meal for the day. She was in her glory caring for the young animal. baguette sandwiches I bought at a stand before Almost all men in this Buddhist culture spend From our perch on the elephants we could leaving town. My two-year-old son, on the other some time as a monk. Many are sent when they see huge cliffs rising up to form the Mekong river hand, wanted to join the ‘big boys’ jumping off are 8, 9, or 10 to spend a season or a couple years valley. At the water’s edge we boarded a small the 10 foot waterfall that flowed out from our gaining an education within the monastery. A flat-bottomed boat with a trolling motor to cross pool. We carefully walked out along the edge of few make the lifelong commitment, and remain the river and got onto a floating bamboo dock at the falls to join a small group of college-age back- at the temple. Luang Prabang monks wear the the base of some stairs leading into the cliff. This packers and he decided that a smaller fall from a orange-colored robes typical of Southeast Asian open-front cavern is the sacred resting place for lower pool would be better. Good idea. He slid Buddhism, and it was fun to get to know some of thousands of Buddha statues and relics that have off with glee into the crystal blue water and we them during our visit. My two kids enjoyed play- been damaged or broken or replaced in temples swam around for quite a bit. It was deep! ing with a dog that temple monks had named throughout the Luang Prabang area. It was They were both exhausted after swimming, so “Thea.” They also stripped down and swam in the chock full of centuries-old Buddha’s, and tourists. we spent the afternoon napping at our wonder- river with all the local kids, posed so young nov- The kids and I briefly snapped some pictures ful little guesthouse. It was a typical ‘colonial- ices could snap pictures with their cell phones. before making our way up a stone stairway to a style’ building with a big front balcony, huge They learned that kids in Laos are just like them. higher, less visited cave. Now, this was a cave! It wooden shutters and wrought iron windows: no There is, however, a much deeper history was dark and mysterious; our flashlight landed glass. The warm breeze felt wonderful. This was within Luang Prabang. A tour of the local palace on Buddha images, statues in every niche within March, and the very end of the dry season. Soon gave us a glimpse into the life of the not-too- the main cavern and within a side grotto. The the rains would come. distant past life of the Lao royal family. In a side kids were fascinated and challenged each other to In the evening, we wandered to the local night room of the palace is the sacred namesake of the find more and more statues. We saw hundreds market where we spent every night of our trip. It town itself: the Phra Bang, or “Royal Buddha is a fun bustling street closed to traffic and filled Image.” Legend claims that this 32-inch bronze See Laos ON PAGE 38

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beach in pon returning from my deployment to Af- Bali for me not only became a vacation, it be- ghanistan, I found myself feeling unsettled. came my safe haven. The five days and six nights I I had taken 30 days of leave at home (in spent there were not enough overall, but it’s amaz- UJoplin, Missouri) and although it was nice to be ing what my visit did to rejuvenate my spirit. Bali around family and friends, it was busy, busy, busy. I met people from all over the world (Denmark, It was no different once I returned to my duty sta- London, Australia), hung out on the beach and tion in Japan. drank, zipped through traffic on I decided one day (on a a scooter, ran in to Snoop and whim) that I wanted/NEEDED MY PARADISE Justin Beiber at a nightclub, and Story and photo by to take a trip to a remote loca- even managed to score a ticket to Kellen Carr tion... somewhere on a beach and far away from Snoop’s Bikini Beach Party concert the next day! any thoughts of danger, timelines, work, or stress. I had a list of things I wanted to do while I And that’s when I chose Bali, Indonesia. was in Bali and I did not accomplish a single one. I had heard of Bali, but I didn’t know anything But I’m okay with that because 1) now I have an about it. I got on the Internet and immediately “excuse” to go back, and 2) because I HAD THE began searching for sights to see and things to do TIME OF MY LIFE! in Bali. The pictures of the beaches alone had me If you’re looking for paradise, look no further hooked. I KNEW that’s where I needed to be. than Bali. Laos

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of them. The mystique took over: These same statues would have been here, si- lently sitting in their secret cave, while the Raven FAC’s took off from Luang Prabang just down river on their secret missions 50 years ago. One evening in Luang Prabang, we The Kuang Si waterfall. climbed the hill in the center of town from the ‘back’ staircase passing a series One of the numerous city temples. My daughter playing in the water at Kuang Si waterfalls. of gigantic Buddha statues until we reached the peak of Phou Si. From here remarkable. Unlike most other Southeast Asian Thailand, to see the locals queued up in a nice neat we watched the sun glisten on the misty countries I’ve been too, the salespeople, street line or to find streets that are (though dusty and river and set behind the mountains. We vendors, and even tuk-tuk drivers were not pushy. rocky) free from litter. Now, was this related to could also see the runway – upgraded They still solicited business for themselves by offer- Laos government? I don’t know. But it did get me since the time of the Raven FACs; the ing services, but a simple “no thank you” and they thinking about how Luang Prabang did seem a bit 7:30 flight to Hanoi was just taking off. happily obliged, content to enjoy their day as much different than other places we’ve been in south- When I returned from our trip, my as you. In addition, the Laotian people – at least east Asia. It felt authentic and ancient. It seemed husband had an interesting question: in Luang Prabang – seem to follow the rules. Not mysterious with stories behind each facade; stories “Well, was there anything different that that other people don’t, but it’s not common in, say that connect with my own. made it feel communist?” I know, of course, he meant “were you For more information about the Raven FAC mission: and the kids safe?” We certainly were. • www.ravens.org In fact, there were two things that, only • Christopher Robbins, The Ravens: Pilots of the Secret War of Laos, Asia Books, 2000. in retrospect, stood out as being quite

38 Destination Paradise 2014