Music, Sharing His Incredible Mind

COVER ART: Photographer: Hörður Sveinsson, a long Hörður Sveinsson time collaborator with Stylist: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Edda Guðmundsdóttir met John Grant in a Make Up: studio and took the Ísak Freyr Helgason photo with the help of Assistant: UV light. Ólafur Magnússon Set design: Unnar Ari Baldvinsson

08: JOHN GRANT! 11: Injustice & Art 31: A Hot & Steamy Visit 06: Geldingadalur, The 19: Introducing RAKEL 28: Austurlands Speaks Remix 23: Reading Too Much 27: We Hate Sagas! We First 07: Wolf Riding Hotties Into A Helicopter Want Fantasy Novels! EDITORIAL More Beauty, Less Bigotry The Reykjavík decades according to scientists; histor- interesting artist, but it’s shocking for G r a p e v i n e i s ically, it could go on for centuries. Icelanders to read about his past, his s u r v i v i n g o n e The government still decided to upbringing and the incredible bigotry more month. And open up the borders on May 1st, mean- and spectrum of violence that he had to what a month ing that those that have been vacci- endure for just being who he is. It’s even to survive! The nated or already had the virus can more interesting to read about how he Reykjanes penin- travel to Iceland, no matter if they are deals with this, not only through his sula has awak- from within the Schengen Area or not. art, but also his courageous dauntless- ened, like scientists feared, offering Icelanders will use colour schemes for ness. It reminds one of how important Icelanders the most impressive, and countries when evaluating the danger individual freedom is, and the right for perhaps most beautiful, nature display of travellers to spread the virus. Mean- each and everyone to have their right on earth right now. Not only is there ing if your government is doing poorly to exist in the world. And for us at the one active fissure, but three, and there in fighting the virus, it will be labeled Reykjavík Grapevine, we will fight for could even be more in the same area red, and therefore everyone visiting those rights as long as we exist. within days or weeks. The volcano in from those areas has to quarantine The fear of those who are different the Fagradalsfjalls volcanic system is unless you have a certification that you will never go away. Sadly so. Fortu- a game changer for the greater city have been vaccinated or have had the nately, John Grant found his voice in area, affecting the people nearby in virus before. music, sharing his incredible mind. many ways. The gas pollution adds to But, Iceland is not only about the More beauty, less bigotry. It's as simple other complications like COVID-19, striking nature and volcanos. We also as that. which is still a concern, of course. But have incredible artists. In our issue we it also brings us a lot of opportunity. interview the cover star, John Grant, an Valur Grettisson This could be the best thing that has internationally known musician who Editor-in-chief happened to the travel industry in has been living in Iceland for almost Iceland. This volcano could go on for a decade now. John is not only an

John Pearson is a Rey- Hannah Jane Cohen is Pollý is a hard-work- Sveinbjörn Pálsson Catharine Fulton is a Art Bicnick is an Andie Sophia Fontaine Owen Tyrie is a young Valur Grettisson is kjavík resident who based out of Iceland ing journalist by day is our Art Director. writer and editor who international man has lived in Iceland journo straight out of an award-winning combines writing with by way of New York. and an enthusiastic He's responsible for has been involved of mystery. He since 1999 and has Cheshire, England. Af- journalist, author professional back- She's known for her ball-catcher by the design of the with the Grapevine moves like a shadow been reporting since ter studying journal- and playwright. He grounds in music, love of Willa Ford, night. A four-year-old magazine and the for many years, from through the subcul- 2003. They were the ism for three years has been writing for broadcasting, scuba David Foster Wallace, dachshund mix with cover photography. being our online tures and soirees first foreign-born in Leeds, he recently Icelandic media since diving, engineering and other such an IQ of a five-year- When he's not work- news editor to sta$ of Reykjavík, never member of the moved to Reykjavík 2005. He was also a and underwater "intellectuals." Her old human, Pollý has ing here, he DJs as journalist. She is still, o%en ghosting Icelandic Parliament, in order to pursue his theatre critic and photography. He loves visionary work is been the o"cial Terrordisco, hosts now our beloved the scene in a pu$ an experience they dream of becom- one of the hosts of puns, alliteration and known for expand- Chief Of Morale at the Funkþátturinn copywriter. Outside of blue smoke—the recommend for ing Icelandic. He’s a the cultural program, lists that have three ing the definitions of the Grapevine for radio show, or sits at of dealing with our exhaust fumes of the anyone who wants film fanatic, gaming 'Djöflaeyjan' at RÚV. things in them. emotion, introspec- eight months and is a table in a Laugarda- writers turning in elusive, well-travelled to experience a enthusiast and most Valur is not to be tion, and above all a regular contribu- lur café, drinking work late, she also Bicnick Mini. workplace where of all, ginger. Oh, and confused with the else, taste. Hannah is tor to the Grape- copious amounts of has two extremeley colleagues work tire- he loves tea. dreadful football club also the current Drag vine Newscast on co$ee and thinking cute kids. lessly to undermine that bears the same King of Iceland, HANS. YouTube. Woof. about fonts. each other. name.

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In the Westfjords of Iceland, what we call “downtown” others might refer to as “the Arctic.” Call it what you will. We just live here. Shop at 66north.com Keeping Iceland warm since 1926 Follow us on Instagram @66north The Reykjavík Grapevine 4 First Issue 04— 2021

Since my baby le# me, I found a new place to dwell...

Oh yeah, the volcano in Gelding- adalur is still erupting—in fact, What Are Icelanders two new fissures have opened up about 500 m from the original Talkin! About? eruption site — and the antics of people trekking to see the volcano Shake, rattle and roll has been worrying Civic Protection and health authorities. Some visi- Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Art Bicnick tors seem to think the hike to the volcano is a short, pleasant jaunt, NEWS The biggest contro- slower than expected. Minister rather than the hours-long hike THE HOME versy shaking Iceland of Health Svandís Svavarsdóttir through challenging conditions it right now is the new quarantine told reporters last February that is in reality. This has led to some hotel. That is, anyone coming to some 190,000 Icelanders would be minor injuries, and in at least one the country—whether tourists or vaccinated by the end of June— case necessitating rescue. Civic OF ICELANDIC Icelandic citizens—had to spend ”numbers we can stand by”, as she Protection has reminded people five days in an upscale hotel, with put it—yet at the time of this writ- to dress for freezing temperatures the room and food mostly covered ing, only just over 24,000 people and wet weather, to equip their SEAFOOD by the state. This was done because have been fully vaccinated (bear- boots with spikes, pack food and asking those arriving in Iceland to ing in mind that “fully vaccinated” to have a fully-charged phone. You quarantine themselves between means a person has received both would also do well to remember AND LAMB COVID-19 screenings apparently shots and a grace period of about that there is still a pandemic going wasn’t working, with some disre- two weeks has elapsed). At this rate, on, so masking up and maintaining garding quarantine altogether. by the end of June authorities will social distance is still a must. And if APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart This new policy was, however, in only be about halfway to their goal. Civic Protection staff on the scene a legal grey area, and has led to While authorities quietly updated tell you that the dangerous volcanic restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks some Icelanders challenging the their vaccination schedule, the gases have shifted and you must most historical buildings. hotel quarantine in court. Lawyers public has taken notice, and opposi- leave, by all means do so—evacua- representing these people have tion MPs have asked what the hold tion is not an optional thing. We specialize in fresh seafood described this five-day hotel stay in up is. Despite this, Prime Minister and local ingredients terms like “worse than prison” and Katrín Jakobsdóttir has insisted the “gulag” and “North Korea.” Interest- government fully intends to meet prepared with a modern twist. ingly, none of these lawyers have their stated goal. Only time will tell. said a word about asylum seeker shelters, which have been covered extensively by the media for years now as being demonstrably worse than Icelandic prisons. The chal- APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR Austurstræti 16 101 Reykjavík apotek.is lenge in Reykjavík District Court led to the court finding that the Icelan- dic government did not have the authority to put people in this hotel if they already had a legal address in Iceland, or otherwise had a place to quarantine in. Now Parliament must reconvene to make quarantine regulations clearer, and legal.

We probably wouldn’t need to worry so much about this if everyone had received a COVID-19 vaccine, but shots have been rolling out much It's over Anakin!

PUBLISHER LISTINGS DIRECTOR SALES DIRECTORS CONTACT US: magazine may be Hilmar Steinn Hannah Jane Cohen —» Editorial reproduced in whole Aðalsteinn or in part without the Grétarsson [email protected] Jörundsson +354 540 3600 [email protected] written permission Published by [email protected] [email protected] of the publishers. The COPY EDITOR —» Advertising Reykjavík Grapevine Fröken ehf. +354 540 3601 Helgi Þór Harðarson [email protected] Catharine Fulton [email protected] 354 540 3605 is distributed Hafnarstræti 15, [email protected] around Reykjavík, 101 Reykjavík —» Distribution Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, www.grapevine.is EDITOR$IN$CHIEF INTERN FOUNDERS Seyðisfjörður, & Subscriptions Borgarnes, Keflavík, [email protected] Valur Grettisson John Pearson Hilmar Steinn +354 540 3604 [email protected] johnpearson@ Grétarsson, Ísafjörður and grapevine.is distribution@ at key locations Member of the Hörður Kristbjörnsson, grapevine.is along road #1, and Icelandic Travel NEWS EDITOR Owen Tyrie all major tourist [email protected] Jón Trausti —» Press releases Industry Association Andie Sophia Fontaine Sigurðarson, attractions and www.saf.is andiesophia@ [email protected] tourist information grapevine.is PHOTOGRAPHERS Oddur Óskar centres in the Kjartansson, —» General Inquiries country. You may not Saga Sig [email protected] like it, but at least Printed by Landsprent CULTURE EDITOR Valur Gunnarsson ehf. Elísabet Davíðsdóttir it's not sponsored (no articles in the Hannah Jane Cohen Timothée Lambrecq [email protected] Reykjavík Grapevine Hörður Sveinsson The Reykjavík are pay-for articles. The opinions PHOTO EDITOR Emilie Dalum Grapevine is published 21 times expressed are the Art Bicnick Berglaug a year by Fröken writers’ own, not the [email protected] Garðarsdóttir ltd. Monthly from advertisers’). Eugeny Hramenkov December through February, and fortnightly from March til October. Nothing in this NATURALLY PURE ICELANDIC LAMB – BEYOND COMPARE

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Enjoy the best we have to offer, Icelandic food – naturally. 6 The Reykjavík Grapevine First Issue 04— 2021

Some days later, yet another fissure ASK A opened, so it looks like we're in for the long haul here. Rabbi Are we in danger? Q: How Does One Celebrate Shabbat In The lava from this fissure is flowing The Midnight Sun? into nearby Meradalur and while it is, like Geldingadalsgos, far from popu- lated areas and infrastructure, the lava is reportedly flowing fairly quickly. Like the Geldingadalur eruption, this is also a fissure eruption—there is little to no ash, but there is fountain- ing lava and the gas emissions that come from such eruptions, such as toxic sulphur dioxide. But you need to Photo by Timothée Lambrecq be very close to such an eruption for it to be harmful, and for now the area If you celebrate a weekly holiday is closed to all but scientists and Civic that’s set to begin at sundown and Protection staff. end at nightfall, how do you do so when there is none? We sat down with What next? Rabbi Avraham Feldman to ask how one celebrates Shabbat in Iceland. Look at this show-o% Volcanoes are always unpredictable, and this latest fissure is no exception. Shabbat is a weekly celebration of the “We can never know ahead of time creation of the world. It’s a day of rest, how this volcano will behave,” volcan- a day for family, introspection and a time to focus on what’s important. It’s ologist Magnús Tumi Guðmundsson unplugging from the regular world told RÚV. “There is a certain amount of New Volcano Just and being present for a day. Shabbat pressure, and there doesn’t seem to be begins at sunset on Friday and finishes a lot of material coming to the surface, at nightfall on Saturday. The highlight but it could lead to an increased erup- is the Friday night dinner, which starts Dropped tion. But we see no signs that it’s with a blessing on a cup of wine—the New fissures open near ori(inal Geldin(adalur eruption decreasing. This event is not at all Kiddish—and then a candlelit meal. over.” So that brings us to Iceland. In win- Words: At around noon on April 5th, those The area was immediately evacuated, The area will likely remain closed ter, sunset can be as early as 15:30 Andie Sophia watching the Geldingadalur eruption which went relatively smoothly, but until scientists have a better under- and, in summer, as late as just a%er Fontaine livestream noticed that a new player observers were quick to note that the standing of what is going on in the midnight. There’s a certain window has taken the stage: a fissure, some- fissure opened with very little warning, region. If the area does open again, of time you can start Shabbat early Photo: where between 50 and 100 metres long, and at an area where volcano watchers however, it is very likely that the visit- and in Iceland, that’s two hours. But Art Bicnick opened up about 500 metres north of would often congregate, thus making ing area will be considerably differ- that still means you’re sitting down the original eruption site. it nothing short of miraculous that no ent from what volcano-watchers have for dinner at 22:00, which is very late, one was injured. come to expect. but it turns it into a really epic Shabbat experience. You watch the midnight sun while you’re having Kiddish. LOST IN GOOGLE TRANSLATION Shabbat ends on Saturday at nightfall, but that doesn’t happen for about two months in the Icelandic summer. So the fun fact about the end of Shab- Save our… Rhinos? bat in Iceland is that it ends on a Sun- day morning because there is techni- In what may be a to go see myself seas around ning-in-a-straight- cally no Saturday night. bizarre surprise a rhino! But we Iceland, snacking line beast? Well, Once you hit the Arctic Circle, to many of you, stopped, paused on any unfortunate it’s not as simple though, that raises some difficult Iceland now has and thought for mammal or fish as we thought. The questions as at certain times, there rhinos! a moment before they happen upon. word for a killer is no sunrise or sunset. These are very This completely hopping in the In short, there’s whale is ‘háhyrnin- new questions because when the code blew us away at GrapevineMobile this old persistent gur’ whereas the of Jewish law was written, there were Grapevine HQ! We and realised our substance called word for a rhino no Jewish communities in these re- were ready to go old friend Google polychlorinated is ‘nashyrningur’; gions. It’s a di$erent world today. In on safari. Our pho- Translate had biphenyl (PCB) the similarities fact, there was a Jewish astronaut who tographer was fid- pulled a fast one which was banned between the words went to space, so there was a ques- dling around with on us. Our disap- years ago due to clearly being the tion of how best to observe Shabbat his lenses trying pointment was the harmful e$ects ‘hyrningur’ part. So when each revolution around Earth— a to figure out which immeasurable and against humans. yeah, no rhinos in day—was 90 minutes! would be best for frankly, our day was Now they’re harm- Iceland… for now! People might wonder why these capturing mega- ruined. ing our underwater OT technicalities are important, but in fauna, Valur was The article is in buddies. Judaism, the technical and the spirit desperately trying fact not based on But why would need to come together—like the body to contain Polly’s our horny friends Google Translate and the soul. But for Iceland, from a excitement at mak- but actually refers mistake a highly Jewish law point of view, the case is ing a new interspe- to killer whales— deadly swimming pretty straightforward. It’s just that it’s cies friendship, and orcas—that do killing beast with a very extreme, very unique, and, I think, I was damn ready o%en swim the highly deadly run- very cool. HJC °

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shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is* shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.isDon't Hesitate! Act Now! * You only need to type the URL in once 7 The Reykjavík Grapevine First Issue 04— 2021 GODS OF ICELAND Lives, so wasted and gone But in a fantastic plot twist—and GRAPEVINE potential experimental side project— those two lucky giants spared by Ýmir’s bloody genocide went on to create a PLAYLIST new sub-species of Jötnar, including the Frost Giants, who lived in Jotun- heimr, and the Fire Giants, who lived in Múspellsheim. The Frost Giants, while being total chaotic messes, were relatively controlled in their frosty kingdom by the Æsir gods in next door Ásgarður. That said, the Fire Giants are some- what troubling. Apparently, when Kælan Mikla - Kristín Sesselja - Sólstöður W.A.I.S.T.D. (what am Photo by Timothée Lambrecq Ragnarök arrives, they’ll burst out of This track I supposed to do) their fiery hellscape and kill everyone. demonstrates that Sassy Sessy kicked It’ll basically be a Jon Snow/Daenerys Kælan Mikla keeps ass and took names evolving in ever- last year with the Targaryen situation, except hopefully improving directions. insanely catchy with a more satisfying ending, and, Slaps like a funeral “Fuckboys,” a obviously, a bombastic soundtrack. dirge but carries the middle-finger to AdobeStock is the #1 resource for o&cial Jötnar pictures power of a blizzard on misbehaving males the horizon heading everywhere. Then as quickly your way. We the year turned, she The pain of a lifetime lost have long been fans topped the airplay of Kælan Mikla, and charts at RÚV’s Rás 2 My favourite Jötunn is a rather lovely we were absolutely radio station with the Jötnar, A Sick af Power Metal Band young woman named Hyrrokkin. A right to tell you that balladic “Earthquake,” this is the band to lonely soul who roamed the woods in presciently Throu(h the fire and the flames, a Jötunn carries on keep your eye on. preceding Iceland’s a lawless portion of Jötunheimr, she Keep following— real-life shakes. patrolled the world on the back of a more surprises are Coming back strong surely in store. ASF with a heavier sound Words: If there’s a group from the Norse mean, the epic melodic chorus writes wolf that she controlled with reigns and a darker vibe, Hannah Jane Pantheon more suited to creating a itself, doesn’t it? made from poisonous snakes and was Kristín Sesselja is in Cohen cheesy power metal band than the But while they are giants, that considered so strong and fierce that no mood for honey and candy floss Jötnar, I’ll eat my copy of WoW and also term is actually rather vague in Norse she shook the earth and caused things lyrics. “I write a lot give whomever points them out one mythology. Unlike the towering crea- to spontaneously combust with but of sad songs, it’s trillion pillaged cities. Seriously, that’s tures you might have seen in hits one push. And that’s with just one tap kinda my thing” she sings. Keep it up Superpowers: a real bet. [EDITOR'S NOTE: No, it's not] like ‘Jack & The Beanstalk’ and ‘Harry of the finger, so just imagine what she Are giants. Ride Kristín – that, and Potter’, the Norse giants weren’t neces- could do with a killer riff accompanied the ass-kicking. Oh, wolves. sarily large, hairy, and dumb. In fact, by a children’s choir. Brutal. Viktor Orri Árnason - and the earthquake So far away... Eilífur: IX. Var—Er predictions. JP Weaknesses: some were human sized, wise, attrac- But, in the end, the Jötnar are “Var - Er” is the first Veins that run Anyway, usually described as giants, tive and even rather fascinating to actually just so metal that when you single from Icelandic with toxic blood the Jötnar were one of the early races talk to. Take Ýmir, the first of the lot, research them, literally every name contemporary composer’s Viktor which is fatal to in the Norse Pantheon. Think of them who famously birthed two children via and term associated with them is actu- their own kind. Orri Árnason’s debut as the “bad guys” of the Nine Worlds, as his armpits and was later murdered, ally already the name of a power metal PENTATONE album, which, as he explains, Modern opposed to the totally-not-violent-and- bleeding out toxic blood that subse- band, song or album. It actually makes explores the concept Analogue: scary Æsir and admittedly-quite-lovely quently killed all but two of his kind. me question the creativity of the genre, of living forever. But A Swedish Vanir. In fact, the definition of Jötunn Jeez. He’d probably have some stories but, I suppose, through the fire and the this is no triumphant fountain of youth Eivør - Gullspunnin Power Metal in the Oxford Language Dictionary is “a to tell, which, we’d reckon, would make flames, the Jötnar will carry on. Band that just extravaganza. No it’s Eivør, despite being took it too far. member of the race of giants, enemies a fantastic two-disc concept album. an eerie, everlasting from the Faroe of the gods.” Enemies of the gods! I Shame ghosts can’t shred, eh? and enchanting Islands, was quickly orchestral work adopted by Iceland featuring a droning when it became clear men's choir (a that she is a vocalist JUST SAYINGS heavily underused of unparalleled instrument imo) talent. At her very and an overall best, her voice is aura of meditative backed by music that resignation. Who gives her the chance wants to live forever? to exercise the full “Úr öskunni í eldinn” Not Viktor. HJC strength of her range, and “Gullspunnin” “Úr öskunni í eldinn” means “from Hannah Jane: That’s amazing. is definitely one of those songs. An ashes into the fire.” It’s a saying that Me: But then he became a hardline ethereal rush that is still commonly used in Iceland, and Methodist afterwards, hating other washes over you like most importantly, it’s a bad thing. It people's fundamental human rights and the ocean as the tide comes in, you would seems that the phrase is fairly well- inciting a civil war to enslave everybody do well to make this known in English—in fact, a simple that doesn't share his view of life. your new crying-in-

Google search reveals that there are a Hannah Jane: Wow, he just went the-bathtub track. Laufey - Best Friend ASF bunch of Christian books with similar straight from öskunni í eldinn. “Best Friend” is like if names dating all the way back to the There you have it. We were actually Amanda Palmer made a wholesome PG track 1970s. This is fitting because this saying going to have a saying related to volca- for the credit scene basically means, in Icelandic, that bad noes, only to discover that there is not of a Disney movie. things can always get worse. To help one saying or idiom about volcanos in A love letter to her best friend—despite you understand, I’ve helpfully provided Icelandic. In conclusion, our forefathers' all her ﬂaws, such a little dialogue to illustrate the saying: lack of interest in volcanos is borderline as her hairdo—it’s Me: So An airplane crashed on this shocking. VG Laufey’s smiley take on rockabilly that guy but he survived it miraculously. truly stands out here. D’aww! HJC How it feels to get your vaccination

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shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is* shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.isDon't Hesitate! Act Now! * You only need to type the URL in once 8 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04— 2021 Tales Of A Michigan Boy A New Chapter In The Open Book Of John Grant Words: John Pearson Photos: Hörður Sveinsson

“I suppose I never really tire of going back over my life, and trying to figure out what the fuck happened.” John Grant—musician of international renown and Reykjavík resident for the last decade—has some stories to tell while he does that figuring. Drug and alcohol addictions, past indul- gences in self-destructive sex and religiously inspired self-loathing—to name but three topics—are all reflected across John’s work. But his new album, ‘Boy From Mich- igan’, focuses that storytelling on the early years, when a young gay man emerged into an environment where being himself simply wasn’t an option. Lockdown baby

“Pandemic-schmandemic, right?” John quips, his eyes flashing their character- istic twinkle. While the past year was one of unprecedented restriction for most musicians, it supplied John with a captive crew of collaborators—and no excuse not to knuckle down and get creative. When COVID-19 first blew into Iceland, John was in Reykjavík with his close friend and fellow musician Cate Le Bon. They had assembled a band to play a few live dates, but with the gigs cancelled—and routes home for the international tour party shutting down—they decided to make the most of the situation. “We holed up in the studio for two months—even though the others were only supposed to be here for four weeks—and recorded an album,” John says. “We thought we might as well just do it, because we’ll never get this time again.” John had to steel himself against some old familiar foes; the voices of anxiety, self-doubt and self-loathing. “When I get up in the morning my brain is just like ‘Don’t go into the studio, you fucking gross faggot. You don't have any business trying. Nobody wants to hear your fucking voice, because it's pathetic.’ You know?” John pauses for a moment, then concludes: “But I just have to be like, ‘Yeah, I hear you. See you later!’ And I go.” He finds the voices usually fall silent once he reaches the studio, where he’s in his element. 9 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04— 2021

Soon afterwards, John moved to John the person. and Lynyrd Skynyrd,” John remembers. Iceland for the “crisp air and deep This transparent approach is consis- “But for me it was Abba, which led to "I suppose connections” that he had found here. tent across his first four albums, each side-glances and, like, ‘Fuck, we’ve got John’s new friends included a man reflecting elements of his life from a live one here, boys! Let’s see if we can I never really who would become his long-term across the years. 'Boy From Michigan’ get him on the Aerosmith bus!’” partner. Biggi of Icelandic electro reaches furthest back, with themes “Oh, and Donny and Marie—we were legends GusGus also came into John’s revolving around John’s upbringing in listening to that too,” he laughs, embar- tire of going life around that time, and went on to Michigan and Colorado. rassed, but not. produce his second solo album, ‘Pale “The album is sort of childhood John was captivated by the post-punk back over my Green Ghosts’. viewed through the prism of adult- and new wave movements of the early The following years saw two more hood,” he says. “I definitely romanticise eighties, and “Rhetorical Figure” from life and trying albums from John—‘Grey Tickles, Black that time in my life; I'm a little obsessed the new album is a direct connection Pressure’ and ‘Love Is Magic’—with with Michigan, you know.” to that scene. The song channels Devo, 'Boy From Michigan’, his fifth studio Album tracks “The Rusty Bull” and John’s favourite band of the period and to figure out outing, bringing the story up to date. “County Fair” both evoke a folksy mix of still a major influence on him. “I love However, John’s development as John’s real Michigan childhood spliced songs like that,” he enthuses. “I can't what the fuck an artist has been superimposed on a with his idyllic fantasy version, while get over songs with that kind of bass. roller-coaster ride of personal issues the song 'Boy From Michigan’ juxta- I'll never stop making songs like that.” and challenges: anxiety, depression poses a warm, welcoming groove in the John adopted the flamboyant fash- happened." and the drugs prescribed to counter verses with a jarring, anxious feel to the ions that came with the new music, but them; hedonistic, self-destructive sex choruses. Its refrain carries a warning his need for self-expression soon ran which led to him contracting HIV; from John’s childhood friend—delivered into the brick wall of conservative social The presence of his fellow musicians and an addiction to booze, along with just before John moved from Michigan intransigence. helped John overcome any inertia those sundry other narcotics. to Colorado—about the treacherous “My mother was an extremely sensi- voices might have imposed. “I mean Preceding and underpinning all world beyond what they currently knew. tive person and so lovely, but man she they've travelled and they’re here to do these issues was John’s experience “It was sort of out of the frying pan, really struggled with me. She was so this,” he says of his creative crew, “so of growing up gay within a strictly into the fire—because that's when the ashamed of me when I would come to you just deliver. And Cate was good at Christian environment; an intolerant shit really hit the fan,” John says of the her store wearing eyeliner. And it wasn’t helping me focus.” atmosphere, where homosexuality was move. just like, ‘I can't believe you’re wearing “I'm pretty particular. It's funny, regarded as a wicked lifestyle choice. The track “Mike and Julie” depicts that’. It was a deep shame and disgust, for somebody who doesn't feel like It meant going straight to hell, giving the teenaged John—now in Colorado— like ‘I can't believe my son is…’” John he knows what he's doing I have very licence to those around them to create deftly side-stepping the issue of his recalls, his voice trailing off. specific ideas about how I want it to be,” hell on earth for the purported sinner. sexuality by positioning a female friend he laughs. “So yeah, I’ve managed to This environment precipitated lifelong between him and a male admirer. Clos- poop out another record with the help personal struggles within John, which ing the Colorado chapter of his youth, Angry orange baby of Cate Le Bon. And I'm so proud of it.” have taken time to address. “The Cruise Room” reflects John’s last “My sensitivity was not something night in Denver before emigrating, “All this stuff going on in the United to be destroyed and crushed, which I hopeful that Germany would offer a States today makes me feel like every- Heaven and hell on tried to do with alcohol and drugs,” he more accepting environment. thing from my youth is happening says. “It was actually a very beautiful Closing the album, however, is again,” John says. “There’s all the nasti- earth thing about me and it has taken me “Billy”—a gentle ballad, lamenting a ness and hatred, but people aren't even John’s loving relationship with Iceland decades to start to think about wanting relationship stifled by society’s expec- ashamed of it now. It's just right on the started back in 2011. Promoting his to be able to accept it someday.” tations of manhood. surface, unapologetically.” debut solo album ‘Queen Of Denmark’, “I think part of the fight for me is he visited Reykjavík to play the Iceland about the cult of masculinity,” John Airwaves Music Festival and expe- Reaching back to says. “I was quite sensitive and I sort of rienced a life-changing moment in a got crushed by everything around me "It's funny, for some- downtown gentleman’s outfitter. Michigan because I had no defences. And when “I was in a store called Dressmann, John Grant’s past is writ large over his it became about me being gay, I didn't body who doesn't feel on Laugavegur—which is no longer work, along with the clear evidence really want to talk about it. But I was there—and this guy was staring at me,” that it’s not always an easy thing to forced to deal with the issue on a daily like he knows what John recalls with a smile. “And I thought share. basis. ‘Quit that faggot shit,’ you know?” maybe he'd caught me looking at him “You know, there's a lot of ugliness and I was gonna get beaten up for being in my story,” he acknowledges. “I feel he's doing I have very a faggot, you know?” rage and hatred in my heart for the fact Are we not men? “And he was like, ‘Are you John that I couldn't defend myself against specific ideas about Grant?’ And I was like, ‘Yeah, but how the people who were attacking me on As a young John started to develop an the fuck do you know that? Like— a daily basis, because I believed that I interest in music, what appealed to him seriously–how do you know?’ I was deserved that treatment.” immediately marked him out as differ- how I want it to be." supposed to be incognito. Anyway, he To tell his story, John has made ent. offered to show me around and he and himself an open book through his “What my brothers were bringing to I are still fantastic friends. He is one music. There is no separately created the table—because they were seven to of the loveliest human beings I've ever public persona; what you hear from nine years older—were bands like KISS, met.” John the artist comes straight from Aerosmith, Van Halen, Molly Hatchet 10 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04— 2021

The album was written and As he says, telling Icelanders that “Having standards and perfection- nicate with Icelanders on a certain Icelandic artist he says: recorded during the final months you’re gay will usually be met with ism—and not wanting to commu- level in English, but you're miss- “I never feel a part of anything of the crumbling Trump regime. polite indifference; a far cry from nicate like a child—is a pride issue,” ing out on a huge world of who they anywhere I go; it's sort of a natural That bizarre, psychotic chapter of the standard reaction back in Mich- he says. “I was never affected by that really are. So I'm not going to give defence mechanism. I suppose I'm American history is reflected in igan. before but I am now, and my unwill- up,” he declares, “even if I often feel still very scared to join any club. I “The Only Baby”, which finds John John has brought his consider- ingness to try to speak Icelandic in like it.” do go out and take part in things, musing on the idea of the former able language skills—which already certain situations makes me angry.” On the subject of cultural inte- but I do enjoy my solitude here. But president as the bastard son of included fluency in German and John recognises that the gration, John has made numerous also, of course, as a human I desire Liberty, the nation’s virgin mother. Russian—to bear on Icelandic. This language of another culture is an connections in the Icelandic music contact with other humans.” “I think something was brought is a man who keeps language text- invaluable tool when attempting to scene over the decade. However, The importance of human to the surface and unearthed by books by his bed, and creates tables assimilate into it. “You can commu- when asked if he feels like an contact to John is plainly evident in that vile cunt,” John says, precisely of Icelandic grammatical declina- and deliberately. “Of course, he's tions for fun. But even John—like not the problem. But he certainly many new Icelanders—often stirred the pot.” finds his new tongue "Does a mother stop “Christianity was assimilated tricky to grasp, and by capitalism, so that it no longer sometimes feels resembles anything near the reticent to put loving her child who teachings of Jesus,” he continues, his language animated. “It’s the exact oppo- skills on site. And the paradox of the whole display. has a heroin addic- thing is this; tolerance that allows intolerance leads to the death of tion? No, she has the tolerant. Period. And so it is a paradox, yes, but this cannot be tolerated.” a deep love for Asked whether he still sees himself as an American after ten years away, John’s response is that child and instant: “I've always been told that I was a weirdo there, even apart from the obvious. Like, ‘Oh you're so that will never European!’. And I’ve always thought to myself, ‘My favourite band is Devo from Akron, Ohio—that's change." pretty American!’ I'm an American boy through and through.” “Does a mother stop loving her child who has a heroin addiction? “Just So You Know”, one of the new No, she has a deep love for that album’s most touching moments. child and that will never change,” “It's to be played at my funeral,” John continues. “And her heart says John of the track, “so that aches because of what that child is there's no guilt for the people left going through. And I'm sure we feel behind. I feel all this guilt about my the same about our countries, don't mother, because she went away and we?” then I couldn't say anything. And I wonder if she knew that I loved her. So I'm saying to my people, ‘Yeah, The importance of we had some rough times. But just know that I deeply felt your love.’ I human contact think that is such a beautiful gift “It seemed that Iceland was unaf- to give to your loved ones. To say fected—unspoiled—by the world,” ‘Yeah, don't worry. I did know.’” John reflects. “I became fascinated In time, John’s Icelandic part- with it back in the eighties because ner—the one that he met when he of The Sugarcubes. That album first arrived—transitioned to the came out in 1988, and I loved it so role of close friend. But one kind much.” of meaningful human connection While he may never shake a is no less valid than another. feeling of residual love for his “That last relationship was great country of birth, John’s heart and perhaps an indicator that I'm is clearly in his adopted Nordic making progress,” he affirms. homeland. This connection has, “Self-love means that you choose in part, to do with the way that somebody good for yourself, Icelandic society is rela- right? So I think at least I’m tively accepting of on the right track.” diverse sexu- alities. Find today's events in Iceland! Download our free listings app - APPENING on the Apple and Android stores

just part of our lives whether we have experienced assault or not. You can’t get around it.”

Do girls lie? But what is it about the Icelandic justice system that is so failing survivors? “It would be rape culture,” Eva explains. “I think it’s much easier to live in a society where we believe that girls lie. It’s so much easier to believe that women are vindictive or too sensitive or reading into something that wasn’t meant that way.” It’s a bone-chilling statement and one that, for most women, will probably hit close to home. It’s also a thought that leads into another portion of rape culture—the lack of education men get on boundaries, consent and coercion. “I have great hopes for the younger boys. There’s so much more conversation now than there was so they are not exposed to as much toxic masculinity,” Eva says. “I hope they are beginning to call each other out on the culture of locker room talk and such.” For Eva, the way forward is conversation. “It has to be an educational process,” she explains. Children and adults, Antonía Berg, Anna Lára Friðﬁnnsdóttir and Eva Huld Ívarsdóttir she emphasises, need to have frank discussions about the normalisation CULTURE of rape culture in our every day lives. NEWS At the same time, the judicial system needs to better accommodate survivors—both during and after their case. 1,600 Lives A project for Iceland The 1600 Niðurfelld nauð"unarmál project tackles the failures of In the future, Eva plans on exhibiting the Judicial System throu"h art all the ceramic statues together somewhere public. Her biggest dream is to see the series travel Iceland, as the TW: Discussions of rape and sexual vio- the project in collaboration with finan- As Eva was devastated by the story number 1,600 represents the amount of lence. cial director Anna Lára Friðfinnsdóttir behind that specific case, she quickly cases dropped all over the country. “It’s and Antonía Berg, the founder of Flæði, realised that that was only one story— not just for Reykjavík, it’s for the whole Words: Counting from 1 to 1,600 would take where the workshops to make the ce- there must be many more. At the same country,” she states simply. Hannah Jane you 26 minutes and 40 seconds. That’s ramics will take place. “We can always time, she saw a TEDTalk about a woman “It’s very weird for me to take on this Cohen about the length of a TV sitcom or half read numbers and talk about numbers who had made origami sculptures of project. It’s not typical lawyer work,” she as long as a basketball game. But in Ice- but it’s a different experience to actually whales to underscore how many had concludes. “It’s a project that touches so Photos: land, the number has a graver, more witness them.” died in a certain timescale. She there- many of us and I believe a project that Art Bicnick painful relevance. It’s the amount of The Justice System’s statistics actu- fore thought of the idea to bring these we would like to see happen as a collec- rape cases dropped by the Icelandic ally do not officially record how many dropped rape cases to the public con- tive culture.” Judicial System over the last two de- rape cases are dropped. Therefore, the sciousness via art—and via art where cades—the amount of cases that pros- number 1,600 is based on work by Ice- each piece would represent a case. And The workshops will be filled on a sign-up ecutors or police officers deemed to be landic scholars who painstakingly de- while she’s not a ceramic artist, the me- basis and interested parties can join and unfit to be examined or go to trial. termined the number of dropped cases dium just felt right to her. message the 1600 Niðurfelld Facebook But the number will soon take on in 2008 and 2009, which Eva then ex- group for more information. a more physical form as part of the trapolated to fill two decades. That said, Info 1600 Niðurfelld Nauðgunarmál proj- the number could easily be more—this The fallout of rape culture The upcoming ect, which aims to create a ceramic is not a high estimate. The 1600 Niðurfelld nauðgunarmál 1600 Niðurfelld sculpture for each individual case lost, project will be hosting workshops at nauðgunarmál highlighting the plight of survivors, the Flæði—the first in April—where sign- workshops will failures of the justice system and what Why was this dropped? ups can make their own ceramic stat- be on April 9th at we as a society can do better. The idea arose in Eva’s head last De- ues for the series. Being a survivor—or 17:00, April 10th cember. By profession, Eva is a lawyer revealing yourself as a survivor—is not at 12:00, April who specialises in sexual offences, and required for participation in the proj- 11th at 12:00, and Bringing numbers to life particularly rape. ect, Eva emphasises. “Each and every April 12th at 17:00 “It’s a criticism of the justice system “I always had in the back of my mind one of us women, we all know rape cul- at Flæði. More as well as a project to point out how how phenomenally many cases don’t ture. Whether you are actually a sur- workshops will be announced on the many cases of rape don’t ever get to be get treated at all,” she explained. After vivor or not, you are familiar with the Flæði Facebook examined or go to court. That’s what we publishing her master's thesis, which feeling of being afraid and the way rape page. are trying to represent,” organiser Eva explored 20 specific rape cases from is always a threat,” she says. Huld Ívarsdóttir explains. She’s created 2013-2017, a survivor reached out to Men are often shocked when they her to look at her case, which had been realise how persuasive violence is in dropped by the Judicial System. Im- women’s daily lives, Eva explains. It’s mediately, Eva was blown away by how true—all women remember the first much evidence there was supporting time that they got scared of men or Participants need not be artists themselves! the crime. “I could not believe that it when their Mom sat them down to talk was dropped,” she says incredulously. about rape. Over their lives, women just “I know that the saying is always that innately know how to carry keys in a these things are word-against-word, parking lot or pretend to talk on the “Each and every one and you can’t work with that, but there phone on a dark street. of us women, we all was so much more in this case. There “There are reasons for us doing was a lot of evidence that could have that,” Eva declares. “We take it in just know rape culture. been used and tried and examined fur- as a language and a societal view. And ther, but it wasn’t.” that’s what I call rape culture. We can’t Whether you are Eva then began thinking about the define our culture without acknowledg- actually a survivor or fallout such a result could have on a ing that.” woman. “I have witnessed how devas- “We all have a friend, we all have a not, you are familiar tating this is,” she says. “Imagine, you sister, or someone we care for. Each with the feeling of went through all this and then someone and every woman, we are so aware of Each piece will represent an individual case dropped just says ‘Well, it’s just not believable.’” this,” Eva continues, resolutely. “It’s being afraid.” The Reykjavík Grapevine 12 Culture Issue 04— 2021 Get Grapevine Merch! “You have extreme joy and being in love, all of these incredible, VOLCANO wonderful COLLECTION emotions, as well as melancholia and my inner darkness.”

"[Composing] is sort of representing you in the purest form."

model shaping her music from a visual perspective. The Dawn Of Eydís “[Composing] is sort of representing you in the purest form,” she explains. “But when releasing Evensen music for the first time, I asked myself, how do I want to create Presenting a composer and a this visual world? With all these visual elements that I’ve made to whirlwind emotional journey accompany the music and with that, just being yourself—it’s been Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Saga Sig interesting to create that.” Emotionally, the jump allowed A hypnotising start Eydís to live fully and authenti- Album cally. The album, she explains, is a com- “In modelling, you get to work ‘BYLUR’ by Eydís Evensen will be pilation of her life. “All of the con- on beautiful locations with really released on April 23rd. tent of the album is material I ini- interesting people from across the tially started composing when I world, so it can be incredibly ex- was seven,” Eydís says. She speaks citing. But it was also my job,” she with a light hybrid-French accent, says. “Versus music, that’s always a result of her time in Paris, she been my passion. So throughout explains. “I remember the feeling my journey of working as a model of [that first composition]. I had and living in different cities, my this emotion stuck inside me and passion was still always music. I’d it kind of just hypnotised me and always seek out a piano to just get I just walked straight to the piano, some headspace for myself.” shop.grapevine.is sat down, and played this piece.” While the piece has been sub- stantially reworked in the two Peaceful missions shop.grapevine.is decades since, it’s clear that the Eydís released her first song “Næ- memory is still a deep one for the turdögg” (“Dew”) in early Decem- shop.grapevine.is artist—the start of what would ber. The track begins like a waltz, From the northern Icelandic town later become the biggest part of meandering in a soft fog before shop.grapevine.is of Blönduós emerged 27-year-old her life. And in the 20 years since moving into a more sensual, in- composer Eydís Evensen, who that initial composition, Eydís stinctual direction. At all mo- burst onto the scene this De- never stopped writing. ments, Eydís’s technique is vis- shop.grapevine.is cember with a slew of gorgeous ceral, physical. Every slight pause post-classical pieces with haunt- The purest form she makes between notes, every shop.grapevine.is* ing music videos to match. She’s small disruption of the beat, ev- on the cusp of releasing her debut Eydís has spent much of her life ery slight change in her force on Don't Hesitate! effort, ‘BYLUR’, which she under- working as a model, for years the keys is full of meaning. With- Act Now! lines will be a stirring, emotional journeying from city to city and out hyperbole, it’s unusual to find * You only need to type the URL in once journey that’ll bring you to the living out of a suitcase. While someone who can make but a few edge and back. vastly different from composing, notes feel so loaded. Eydís sees her experiences as a “It was something I had been The Reykjavík Grapevine 13 Issue 04— 2021 waiting years for,” Eydís smiles, ous underlying beat throughout The duality of an artist when asked about releasing the it. It’s a state of flow, of changing song. She laughs—a tinkling your environment and the emo- Outside of music, nearly all of Ey- sound that stands in stark contrast tions around that,” she says. dís’s favourite activities involve to the solemnity of the song she’s “Brotin,” meanwhile, breaks the outdoors. She enjoys hiking, discussing. “It was a wonderful that exciting veneer, journeying swimming, snowboarding, and feeling, like you have a new bottle into the more hidden parts of Ey- is, she explains, generally up for of champagne.” dís’s life. “It’s [a reflection of] my any surprise. “I like a last-minute Eydís composed much of it most vulnerable emotional state adventure,” she says brightly. “My while living in Cape Town before of feeling kind of broken inside. friend this week said, ‘Hey, should finally finishing the piece when There’s heavy darkness, especial- we go for a 4 a.m. hike to the vol- she moved to New York. “I was go- ly in the latter half of the piece, cano? And I said, ‘Yes, of course.’” ing through a bit of a challenging where we sort of take a moment Eydís lights up when she begins Weekend time in my personal life, so ‘Næ- to pause,” Eydís says softly. “And to talk about her worldwide ad- turdögg’ was like a peaceful mis- that’s when it really is a piece of ventures—from skydiving to im- sion for me,” she explains. me, and one that hits.” promptu globetrotting. Her voice becomes airy, glittery, and it’s hard to reconcile her wonder with the The spectrum of feeling The first showcase serenity and sureness she emits The album as a whole, Eydís em- Once she releases the album, Eydís when discussing her music. phasises, is an emotional journey is excited to bring her music and “I completely understand that. brunch that encompasses every aspect of visuals to a live audience, when- It’s hard to explain, but sometimes her inner world. ever that will be safe. Despite only I feel like I have these different [11:30 - 16:00 ] “It takes you—at least for my- releasing her music in 2020, she sides of me,” she concludes. “One self, personally—on a broad spec- actually played her first ever show day, I’m skydiving in South Africa, trum. You have extreme joy and at Iceland Airwaves 2018 in a show- which is just insane and so much being in love, all of these incred- case organised by Simon Raymond. fun, and the next day I’m by my- ible, wonderful emotions, as well “It was really exciting. It was self, composing something and as melancholia and my inner dark- very challenging putting this show just being a bit sad about life.” ness—things that have been very together for the first time, but it But when asked if she has any challenging in my life,” she notes. was a wonderful showcase. I was last words on the album, her eyes “It’s a whole spectrum of different generally really excited to have my go wide in surprise as she’s jolted A dish full of emotions flowing from a solo piece first ever performance—I had a out of her stories of adventure and into a string septet.” little bit of the sweaty palms, but back into the pool of her music. Eydís points to two tracks, I really enjoyed it,” she laughs. And “Goodness, no! I don’t think so. tasty brunch “Wandering II” and “Brotin,” as just after the show, she explains, I’m just excited to be sharing this prime examples of this range. a representative from Sony Mas- for the first time with the rest of “‘Wandering II’ is a two-part terworks came up. She was later the world,” she says kindly. “I hope piece; both were composed when signed by the label. everyone will enjoy it. + mimosa I was living out a suitcase, trav- “I ran outside to tell my family elling from city to city every two and friends about the representa- weeks, or two months, or so. This tive, holding his business card, and second part is about a continuous the Northern Lights were out,” she way of living, so it has a continu- smiles. Only 2990 kr.

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Hulda Kristín best spent relaxing because it’s the bratún with my friends to play Were- Kolbrúnardóttir perfect time to do so. Maybe I’d put wolf. We’re kind of a nerdy group of shop.grapevine.is some indie pop on but it deﬁnitely friends; we’re all together in film Hulda Kristín Kolbrúnardóttir is depends on what kind of mood I’m in school and we also enjoy playing one member of Iceland’s beloved that day. Sometimes I go into hard- Dungeons and Dragons when we’re shop.grapevine.is Eurovision entry Daði & Gagnamag- core metal or even elevator music if all around. A good way to spend the nið, who have stolen the show once I’m feeling like it! evening would also consist of going shop.grapevine.is again with their new release ‘10 for some drinks downtown with my Years’. You also might recognise Time to crack on! friends.. shop.grapevine.is her from the Kiriyama Family. She stands out from the crowd with her I usually like to do something dur- If only we weren’t in a pandemic... lovely blue hair, clean edgy look and ing the day, not just sit around doing shop.grapevine.is absolutely stunning dance moves. nothing. Maybe I’d go down to the One of my favourite things to do is Don't Hesitate! What follows is how Hulda would studio to finish some projects I’m spend my time getting ready for shop.grapevine.is*Act Now! spend her perfect day in the city. working on and take my time with it. performing. I love doing warm ups It’s nice to have something to focus throughout the day, planning what * You only need to type the URL in once Wake up fresh & feeling well rested on. It keeps me occupied. In terms of I’m going to wear and the whole lunch, I’d deﬁnitely meet my friends process around preparing to per- I like to wake up when you’ve slept somewhere; we like to go to Gló, the form. One thing I really love is doing just enough—the perfect balance vegan place in Skeifan. I love the la- sound checks! It’s mental prepara- of not too much but not too little. sagne there, it’s so tasty! tion for me to get on stage—I can The best way to start the day is just sometimes get quite shy, but going Venue Finder Kicking back, prepping for the night by pampering myself. Then I’ll go through a sound check helps me get Venues Museums & Galleries grab some breakfast, make some myself together before singing. The numbers (i.e. E4) tell you the position ART67 The Penis Museum Kjarvalsstaðir pancakes, have a smoothie, then I enjoy meeting my friends to make on the map on the next page. The letter Laugavegur 67 F7 Laugavegur 116 F8 Flókagata 24 H8 Open daily 9-21 Open daily 10-18 Open daily 10-17 is the row, the number is the column. take the dog out for a nice walk. dinner. It’s something we do o#en. Ásmundarsalur Kirsuberjatréð Ásmundarsafn The mornings for me are usually Maybe I’d also like to go to Klam- Austur Kiki Queer Bar Freyjugata 41 G6 Vesturgata 4 D3 Sigtún Austurstræti 7 D3 Laugavegur 22 E5 Open Tue-Sun 8-17 M-F 10-18, Sat-Sun Open daily 10-17 10-17 American Bar Loft Aurora Reykjavík Reykjavík City Library Austurstræti 8 D3 Bankastræti 7 E4 Grandagarður 2 B1 Kling & Bang Tryggvagata 15 D3 Open 09-21 Grandagarður 20 A4 Mon-Thu 10-19, Fri 11- B5 Mengi W-Sun 14-18, Th 12-21 18, Sat-Sun 13-17 Bankastræti 5 E4 Óðinsgata 2 F5 Ásgrímur Jónsson t Museum Listastofan Árbæjarsafn Bíó Paradís Nordic House Bergstaðastr. 74 G4 Hringbraut 119 Kistuhylur 4 Vital Info Hverfisgata 54 E5 Sturlagata 5 H2 July 8-Sep 1, Mon-Fri Open Wed-Sat 13-17 Open daily 13-17 Bravó Ölsmiðjan Berg Contemporary Living Art Museum The Settlement Laugavegur 22 E5 Lækjargata 10 E3 Klapparstígur 16 E5 Granadarður 20 A4 Exhibition Useful Numbers Opening Hours - Bars & Clubs Public Toilets Tu-F 11-17, Sat 13-17 T-Sun 12-18, Th 12-21 Aðalstræti 16 D3 Dillon Paloma Open daily 9-18 Emergency: 112 Bars can stay open until 23:00 on week- Public toilets in the centre can be found Laugavegur 30 E5 Naustin D3 The Culture House Mokka Kaffi Hverfisgata 15 E5 Skólavörðustíg. 3A E5 Reykjavík Museum On-call doctors: 1770 days and weekends until further notice. inside the green-poster covered towers Dubliner Prikið Open daily 10–17 Open daily 9-18:30 of Photography Naustin 1-3 D3 Bankastræti 12 E4 Tryggvagata 15 D3 Dental emergency: 575 0505 located at Hlemmur, Ingólfstorg, by The Einar Jónsson Museum of Design Mon-Thu 10-18, Fri 11- Opening Hours - Shops & Banks English Pub R6013 Museum and Applied Art 18, Sat-Sun 13-18 Taxi: Hreyfill: 588 5522 - BSR: 561 0000 Hallgrímskirkja, by Reykjavík Art Mu- Austurstræti 12 D3 Ingólfsstræti 20 E4 Eiriksgata G5 Garðatorg 1 Most shops: Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–16, seum, Lækjargata and by Eymundsson Open Tue–Sun 10–17 Open Tu-Sun 12-17 Saga Museum Gaukurinn Röntgen Grandagarður 2 B2 Post Office Sun closed. Banks: Mon-Fri 09-16 on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets can also be Tryggvagata 22 D3 Hverfisgata 12 E5 Exxistenz The National Open daily 10-18 Bergstaðast. 25b F4 Gallery of Iceland The downtown post office has moved to found inside the Reykjavík City Hall and Hard Rock Café Reykjavík Roasters Fríkirkjuvegur 7 F3 Sigurjón Ólafsson Swimming Pools Lækjargata 2a D3 Kárastígur 1 F5 Gallerí List Open daily 10–17 Museum Hagatorgi 1, open Mon–Fri, 09:00–17:00. the Reykjavík Library. Skipholt 50A H10 Laugarnestangi 70 Sundhöllin, the downtown pool at Hressó Tjarnarbíó M-F 11-18, Sat 11-16 The National Open Tu-Sun 14-17 Austurstræti 20 D3 Tjarnargata 12 E3 Museum Pharmacies Barónsstígur, is an indoor swimming Public Transport Hafnarborg Suðurgata 41 G2 SÍM Iðnó Strandgata 34, 220 Open daily 10–17 Hafnarstræti 16 D3 Lyf og heilsa, Egilsgata 3, tel: 563 1020 pool with hot tubs and a diving board. Most buses run every 20–30 minutes Vonarstræti 3 E3 Open Wed-Mon 12-17 Open Mon-Fri 10-16 The Nordic House Lyfja, Laugavegur 16, tel: 552 4045 More pools: gpv.is/swim Fare: 480 ISK adults, 240 ISK children. Kex Hostel Hverfisgallerí Sturlugata 5 H2 Tveir Hrafnar Skúlagata 28 E7 Hverfisgata 4 D4 Thu-Tu 11-17, W 11-20 Baldursgata 12 G4 and Lágmúli 5, tel: 533 2300 Open: Mon-Thu from 06:30–22. Fri from Buses run from 07–24:00, and 10–04:30 Tu-Fri 13-17, Sat 14-17 Open Fri-Sat 13-16 Kaffibarinn Hafnarhús 06:30–20. Sat from 08–16. Sun from 10–18. on weekends. More info: www.bus.is. Bergstaðastræti 1 E4 i8 Gallery Tryggvagata 17 D3 Wind & Weather Tryggvagata 16 D3 Open 10-17, Thu 10-22 Window Gallery Tu-Fri 11-18, Sat 13-17 Hverfisgata 37 E5 A Downtown & or go on a date—either will be, as A Chandler would say, perfection. Harbour DistrictÐ

FISKISLÓ Get the bigger, moreThe detailed version of The ReykjavíkMap Grapevine ÐUR 11. Þrír Frakkar City Map at your nearest hotel or guesthouse, with selections from our Best-Of awards, vital info, downtown bus stops and a wider view of the city. Baldursgata 14 GRANDAGAR

ELEGANT PREMISES !" IN THE HEART OF To get a sense of Icelandic food B Maritime REYKJAVIK on it like a werewolf... culture from a time before it was Museum fashionably New Nordic, pay a visit BREAKFAST and BRUNCH Dining 6. Sumac Grill + Drinks to Þrír Frakkar. This restaurant has Saga Aurora LUNCH and DINNER MENU not let anything sway them from Museum Reykjavik LOCAL and FOREIGN DISHES Laugavegur 28 tradition—you’ll spot everything 1. Plútó Pizza ÁNANAUST HAPPY HOUR DAILY 15-18:00 from foal, to black bird, to cod NÝ Hagamelur 67, 107 Reykjavík Sumac’s vibrancy seeps into throats and plokkfiskur that are sure LE ND HOLTSGATA U M C GATA Ý everything—the food, ambience, to remain long in your memory. A visit SELJAVEGUR RA RG Love pizzas, but don’t think they’re service and its mix of diners across to this place underlines that good ATA

quite big enough? Why not dive into age groups. By focusing on flavour old-fashioned Icelandic cooking can FRAMNESVEGUR BANKASTRÆTI 7A - 101 REYKJAVÍK - TEL. 562 3232 an 18 inch pie from Plútó Pizza? Or, if profiles unique to the cuisines, it is a be all kinds of memorable. ÍGUR VESTURGATA that sounds a bit much, opt for their successful transplant from Beirut to BÁRUGATA ARST RÁNARGATA slice and drink deal; and when we Reykjavík. For an indulgent spread, HOLTSG. ÖLDUGATA say “slice”, we’re still talking about we recommend getting all the dips GATA RABORG RIMANNASTÍGUR THE Ð Ý a quarter of a pizza here—you won’t and a few flatbreads. Mop it up with D ST Drinking BRÆ MARARG. go hungry. the excellent grilled lamb chops TÚNGATA ÆGISGATA and the now cult whole roasted 12. Vínstúkan Tíú Sopar HÁ cauliflower. VALLAGATA 2. Eriksson Brasserie S WAY ÓLVALLAGATA to plan your journey Laugavegur 27 TÚNGATA Laugavegur 77 ÁS 7. Hlemmur Mathöll VALLAGATA The charming basement bar focuses It’s hard to categorise Eiriksson with Hlemmur Square on natural wines as well as wines its Italian-French leaning menu. The from smaller producers and lesser- E HÓLAVALLAG. interiors and menu whisper nouveau They got it all, folks: Bahn mi, Napoli- known regions. They have twelve S ! ÓLVALLAGATA riche indulgence, the ‘fancy’ stye pizza, fish tacos, lamb specials, bottles open at any one time, and ingredients are a giveaway. But all Michelin-quality high end cuisine, the selection changes daily, so you these reservations aside, they dish coffee, and even fucking gelato now. truly never know what you’re going REYNIMELUR HRINGBRAUT URGATA out a mean veal, good steaks and a Yup, this food hall is a one-stop-shop to get. Ð

VÍ SU smattering of pasta and pizzas. for literally everything in Reykjavík's Ð IMELUR Strætó beloved bus station. It's also one of 13. Aldamót Bar F LJÓSVALLAGATA The o!cial Icelandic 3. Bastard Brew & Food Grapevine's favourite places for a Hólavalla- public transport app first date, in case you're like, in the Kirkjutorg 4 garður Vegamótastígur 4 market for that. Cemetary Taking over the famed Klaustur place, ESPIMELUR This downtown bar/eatery is a bit 8. Fine this cosy spot is the perfect mix of B of a palace. It’s an English pub style classy and relaxed. It's become a environment, without the sense of Rauðarárstígur 33 favourite of our Culture Editor in the G FURUMELUR history—everything from the tables past months with socially distance- National BIRKIMELUR library to the plush leather seating are Did you know that the Chinese kanji safe tables and table service. This catalogue-fresh—but with eleven for fine recalls that of rice/meal? This place has got a bright and boozy beers on tap, a mdedly of burgers, proper Sichuanese restaurant packs future. National museum sharing plates, and comfort food, a wallop of flavour, heat and textural it's one of our favourite post-work delight in each of their selections. 14. Kiki Queer Bar hangout spots. Their tacos are unreal The simply stir-fried hot and sour by the way. Swoon. potato matchsticks and vegetables Laugavegur 22 H ÐURGATA SU are exactly the kind of subtlety University 4. Café Babalú that has been absent from Chinese Kiki is a love-it-or-hate-it situation, of Iceland cuisines in these parts and puts to but if you’re looking to dance to the Skólavörðustígur 22 rest doubts that this is only a fiery greatest hits of the past 30 years, spicy cuisine. Other must-tries are it won’t disappoint. Even though A staple for all Reykjavíkingur, Babalú the beef in hot oil, yu-shiang chicken. right now there is no dancing, they offers comfort food for folks on a are re-opening up with tables, STURLUAGATA SÆMUNDARGATA I budget as well as a Star Wars themed small drag shows and other queer Nordic House 9. Chickpea Culture Center Laugavegur 60A, 101 Reykjavík bathroom (seriously). Their chilli will entertainment. RuPaul bless.FÁLKAGATA 1 2 himalayanspiceiceland.com fill your belly, and there’s a vegan Hallveigarstígur 1 carrot cake sure to tempt you back 15. Miami Bar

for repeat visits. Unpretentious and Tucked in next to downtown’s if you knowARAGATA and love the work of the C bubbly, tuck yourself into a booth Kronan supermarket lies Chickpea, Hverfisgata 33 musicians you’reODDAGATA seeing, you might downstairs or squirrel yourself a new bijoux vegetarian eatery. The be treated to something brand new away for a quiet tête-à-tête over tea restaurant is based around falafel, With a sharp aesthetic that’s miles on any given night. Wine bar upstairs. And try the vegan carrot which is delicious, bringing to mind ahead of any other joint in town, cake, we beg you. the fresh bites you’d find on the Miami serves up pure vice with a 17. Luna Flórens & food carts of the Middle East—and the splash of cosmopolitanism and a 5. Deig salad is equally as visceral. Many of dedicated ping-pong room in the Grandagarður 25 the ingredients are locally sourced basement. If that’s not enough, Vegamótastígur 4 and seriously—try the kim chi. It's a they also offer Cuba Libre on draft. Part flower-child, part spiritual and family secret and positively to die for. So sit back, drink, and you’ll feel with a whole lot of whimsy thrown It’s hard to make any promises just like you’re in ‘Scarface’—minus into the mix, this cosy and hand- about availability at Deig due to 10. Búllan the massacres and mountains of crafted bar is so intimate it makes the bakery’s love of innovation and cocaine. you wanna spend the day musing surprising flavours. The good news Geirsgata 1 about geodes, lunar cycles and tarot is that you’ll rarely see a misstep 16. Mengi card readings. You can do all this and there as all of their stuff is amazing. An oldie but a goodie, Búllan slings more while sipping on their excellent Stop by, and Deig’ll fix you up with a solid burger that seals Iceland’s Óðinsgata 2 house cocktails and an excellent slice a chocolate cake cruller, crème reputation as a worthy burger of vegan cake. Go for an after work brûlée doughnut or some other destination. It was the winner of our Mengi’s concert room is more white drink. That's when this place thrives. VÍNSTÚKAN fried delight. But if you get a chance Best Of Reykjavík 2020 Best Burger cube than dive bar. The programme to taste their glazed, almost cakey, award and man, does it deserve that. encourages new collaborations and lemon poppy seed doughnut—leap Go for a nice greasy hangover meal experimental performances, so even E HÓLMASLÓ

Downtown & Marshall House Viðey ferry Harbour DistrictÐ ÐAR GAR TTA FISKISLÓ New In Town LE ÐUR K Grandi SONO matseljur GRANDAGAR Mathöll The Nordic House Sæmundargata 11 KLETTAGARÐ Maritime Are you tired of the same old generic Sigurjón Museum vegan or vegetarian food? Sick of tast- Art Museum AR ing the same plant-based whatever that Saga Aurora you know (and we know) will eventually VESTURGAR Museum Reykjavik revolutionise the way the world eats? Well ÐAR ÁNANAUST we have news for you! SONO matseljur is an all-new eatery that opened up at the NÝ LE Nordic House. It prides itself on blending ND HOLTSGATA U M GATA Ý herbs and ingredients that others would SÆBRAUT SELJAVEGUR RA RG KLEPPSVEGUR ATA o#en turn their noses up at, such as ﬂow- LÁGHOLTSVEGUR er water and nettles. We bet you haven’t FRAMNESVEGUR SGRANDI !) eaten that before. OT EIÐ ÍGUR VESTURGATA SUNDABORG BÁRUGATA GRANDAVEGUR ARST RÁNARGATA GEIRSGATA Harpa KIRKJUSANDUR HOLTSG. ÖLDUGATA Concert ATA ' KLEPPSVEGUR AG RABORG RIMANNASTÍGUR Hall HRINGBRAUT LL Ð Ý Reykjavík RVA TU ST VES BRÆ Art Museum ÁLAGRANDI MARARG. ÆTI R TÚNGATA ÆGISGATA

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LANGAHL BÓLSTA IT'S OPEN! Yup, a small, stylish drinking Grab a rib and be happy. Klapparstígur 40 should be your first stop. Tulipop serves up everything from SÍ ÐARHLÍ HÁALEITISBRAUT HRI MIKLABRAUT Ð hole popular with the after-work NGBRAUT lamps to wallets Ðall covered in the UMÚLI STARHAGI KRINGLUM ÁLFHEIMAR HEIMAR business crowd, Kaldi is a great Hildur Hafstein is known for her cutestSKAFTA monsters you’ll ever see. The Ð

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR 23. 12 Tónar HLÍ place to feel a little classier and slightly hippy, slightly witchy Icelandic brand’sÐ flagship store is ÁLFTAMÝRI GO drink with dignity. The beer selection vibe—a lone jewellery shaman SkólavörÐ ðustígur 15 an explosion of pastels and neons. Shopping SAFAM is top-notch, and the handcrafted within the Icelandic scene. FillingESKIHLÍ a Seriously, Tulipop is the cutest. SÓLHEIMAR SKÓGARHLÍ BARMAHLÍ BÚSTA Ý interior tips the scales of upscale niche all her own, her mix of delicate This city-centre record storeÐ is RI 20. Myrkraverk Studio REYKJAHLÍ Ð rustic charm. You can be certain jewellery with unusual shapes is something of an institution, offering 25. 66° North MIKLABRAUT Ð MÁVAHLÍ that conversation will rule, not loud Skólavörðustígur 3 truly a delight. AVEGURStop by her tuckedÐ the unique experience of having the Ð STIGAHLÍ LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA music. You also might meet important away Klapparstígur studio to store staff ask about your music Laugavegur 17-19 Ð Ð DRÁPUHLÍ people, fall in love, and move to This hole-in-the-wall artist-run experience the magic in person. taste then sit you down with some GNO Ð SKEIFAN Seltjarnarnes. space is a true treasure for those headphones, and a pile of Icelandic 66 North is the OG brand in Iceland, Ð ARVOGUR seeking some edgier artworks. records. It’s alsoBLÖNDUHLÍ a label that puts out donned by everyoneGRÆNAHLÍ from rural 22. Kokka STAKKAHLÍ 19. American Bar Featuring a rotating cast of many top Icelandic artists.Ð A must- farmers to downtown Ðfuckboys. Reykjavík’s best underground Laugavegur 47 visit Reykjavík store. Note: They also Peruse their wares and it’s obvious FLUGVALLARVEGUR MIKLABRAUT FELLSMÚLI Austurstræti 8 artists, including Freyja Eilif, Solveig have a small bar and occasionally why—their quality and aesthetics is Reykjavík GRENSÁSVEGUR Domestic Pálsdóttir, Boot Foot Toys and Kokka is a fancy fantasy-land some shows. impeccable. These are pieces that Football fans will rejoice in seeing Arngrímur Sigurðsson, it’s a feast for food and homeware lovers, will last you notHAMRAHLÍ only your lifetime, Airport Ð Terminal Kringlan the row of screens perennially for the eyes with art covering nearly filled with all sorts of utensils you Ðbut probably your grandchildren’s. Shopping HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES Mall F HÁAHLÍ Party Every Night. Cocktails! Ð

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Nauthólsvík Beach The Reykjavík Grapevine 18 Music Issue 04— 2021 hole. It’s trance-like, but with a “I felt this was stillness and cleanness that man- an attempt to ages to walk the line between dis- create some- comfort and meditation. Inconsistency, though, is a thing that would hallmark of the instrument. “The be a kind of strings want to go the path of least resistance,” Úlfur says. “So they two-way com- decide whether they jump up an munication octave or an octave and a fifth, and all the way up the harmonics between human scale.” and machine.” A being with it. I felt this was an attempt Úlfur hasn’t yet used it in any of his to create something that would be own compositions, but for him, the a kind of two-way communication innovation and exploration of the between human and machine.” instrument was the ultimate pleas- The sound itself makes one ure. “I think building instruments think of what a church organ from their most discrete elements would sound like were it floating is just my obsession,” he laughs. within the singularity of a black “I’m making new things all the time. It’s mainly the interface of how you’re interacting with a thing that creates the instrument. It’s not about the technology, or how it works. It’s how you feel when you’re The Segulharpa in all its mechanical beauty touching it, or in the presence of it,” he concludes. “It’s like the harp is looking at you when you’re in its space. And it’s really fascinating when you finish something how an instrument can become more than A Harp, A the sum of its parts. It’s an intimate relationship once you get involved with these things. It has a character.” He pauses. “It’s almost like a Human, And A being.”

Machine gpv.is/music Úlfur Hansson’s Se"ulharpa births a new sound Share this + Archives

Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Elísabet Davísdóttir

“When it worked and I finally got of electronic music? And then, like the string sound working cor- a lightbulb, the Segulharpa ap- rectly, it was pure magic,” Úlfur peared. Hansson says—a big smile on his “This [Segulharpa] just came Taste the face. He’s fresh off of taking first to me—what it was supposed to prize at this year’s Guthman Musi- look like, the feeling that it evokes. cal Instrument Competition with I wanted to create something that his own instrument, an electro- was very mysterious and that you magnetic harp called the Segul- don't have to be technologically best of Iceland harpa. Right now, he’s reminiscing oriented to interact with at all. It on his first attempts at making it. doesn't have any markings or any “No one is telling you whether this text or anything. It doesn't even is possible or not and then you go have moving mechanical parts,” and get it. It’s a Frankenstein mo- he says, smiling. “All you do is just ment,” he grins. approach this kind of monolithic thing, and out of curiosity, you start touching it and it responds A sealed mystery to your touch. As soon as I had ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST “I’ve always been into electronic that idea, it just took many years music since I was small, but when to implement it and figure out how Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic I became a bit older, I got really in- to make that work. So even though spirit Brennívín terested in death metal and black it’s very complex technically, that's Followed by 7 delicious tapas metal and that kind of music. not the point.” Going to concerts, you’d just feel • Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce the music in your body. It’s such • Icelandic Arctic Charr with peppers-salsa a visceral experience,” Úlfur says, Fear of feedback when asked about the origins of Within a perfect wooden circle, • Lobster tails baked in garlic the harp. “So that physical aspect the Segulharpa contains 25 steel • Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster sauce of sound became a huge deal for strings that are curved within a me, and it’s an age old dilemma magnetic field. On the top of the • Icelandic lamb with beer-butterscotch sauce with electronic music—it’s al- instrument lie copper and steel ways confined to speaker systems. circles that, once touched, oscil- • Minke Whale with cranberry & malt sauce You’re programming something late the strings through electricity, And for dessert on a computer. Then you either run emitting a sound that’s created by it and it does its thing or you have a machine but controlled through • White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion coulis pre-programmed tracks that you the nuanced touch of the player. play like a keyboard, but the sound “It’s based on feedback, which is always coming from another is an inherently unstable phe- source. It’s almost as if there’s nomenon that provokes almost 8.990 kr. always an extra step away from like a fear reaction, which makes your body or your immediate in- it exciting and unpredictable. So teraction with the instrument that you’re always unsure of what this you’re playing.” process that you’re getting your- Úlfur, therefore, sought to see self involved with is gonna create late night dining what he could do to rectify this as you touch it,” Úlfur continues. Our kitchen is open gap. How could one create a three- “And I think that physicality and dimensional meaning and physi- that uncertainty is interesting as until 23:30 on weekdays cal relationship within the context you touch the instrument and play and 01:00 on weekends TAPASBARINN | Vesturgata 3B | Tel: 551 2344 | tapas.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 19 Music Issue 04— 2021 Event Picks

won’t be able to see the Sugarcubes perform anymore (reunion tour when), GusGus is still alive and kicking, and they will be performing at Harpa to bring the magic back for their 25th anniversary. The lineup also includes guest appearances Almost Famous: Friday Party! Ultraflex MUSIC It’s finally here! The official from Emiliana Torrini, NEWS biography no Viking saw John Grant and a host April 23rd - 20:00 - Bíó Paradís - April 9th - 19:00 - KEX Hostel - Free! coming about the legend- of others, promising a 1,600 ISK ary Icelandic metal band Skálmöld. night that you will be Remember all that Soviet exercise And by Mírír’s head, we are going to GusGus bragging about to your Kate Hudson at her best. Rock stars gear you just never have a chance read this until it evaporates. Surpris- friends for years to actin" like miso"ynist bu%oons. to wear? Finally, the occasion has ingly, the book also reveals that our May 7th & May 8th - 20:00, 22:30 - Harpa - 5,990- come. So don’t miss out Spontaneous sin"in" of Elton John’s arrived. Ultraflex will be doing a very dear president, the sensitive boy 12,990 ISK on this rare occasion: “Tiny Dancer”. It’s all there in this small show at KEX Hostel, which will scout Guðni Th. Guðnason, is a keen Catch them live this award-winnin" Cameron Crowe be the perfect opportunity to get metal fan. He wrote the foreword in the There was a time that of Iceland ever heard of May! Hey—not every early-au"hts classic, which you are your aerobics on. Get there early— book, which was as a whole written by the only Icelandic were the Sugarcubes band lasts a quarter of a cordially invited to enjoy, in public this band is so popular and the the British author Joel McIver. The biog- bands anyone outside and GusGus. While you century. ASF no less, at this screenin". Sweets public is so starved for exercise that raphy features interviews with all the and drinks will also be on o%er. ASF we assume it’ll fill up quick. HJC members of Skálmöld as well as other prolific characters from the Icelandic Our music listin"s section is currently throwin" out its flannel shirts in anticipation of WBS. Sorry! metal scene. You’ll also find a list of every gig Skálmöld has ever played, their songs translated into poetically faithful English, and tons of behind- the-scenes photos. What more could we ask for? Well, perhaps some mead while we listen. VG

GusGus is always at it like an active volcano constantly threatening a new fissure (and then two more) when least expected—not that we know anything about it. They will be dropping a new album at the end of May, and have preempted that fated release with a slew of fantastic videos made by Arni & Kinski—who were actually part of RAKEL, catching the light the GusGus collective in the 90s. These include “Stay The Ride”, “Higher”, and track is a dreamy, emotional mel- “Our World”. “Higher”, featuring the ange of pop and electronic beats fantastic Margrét Rán from VÖK, is a Steppin$ Into The Sun that crescendos into a cinematic particular favourite here, and was a masterpiece worthy of a big-budget honourable mention for Best Music blockbuster trailer. In it, Rakel’s Video at the 2021 Grapevine Music RAKEL is here with a dreamy, escapist debut voice wavers between soft vulner- Awards. So expect solid house music. Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Art Bicnick ability and full-on strength. Her Expect fire. Expect nothing less than control on her own instrument is 1,200 degrees. VG immense as she croons to a lover, EP that it’s her first interview about But despite her impressive re- who is, as Rakel does to a listener, the EP. “So maybe I’m not very good sumé, Rakel never started working keeping one awake. RAKEL’s debut EP ‘Nothing Ever at this, putting these thoughts into on her own stuff until early 2020, “It’s the first song I ever wrote Changes’ will be out on April 28th. words because I’ve never really said when she teamed up with producer where I was like, ‘Oh, this is some- Check out her current releases on them out loud,” she explains, smil- Hafsteinn Þráinsson, better known thing,’” Rakel explains. “It started all streaming platforms. ing as she takes a sip of coffee. as the indie master CeaseTone, and as a tiny thing. I sampled something Called ‘Nothing Ever Changes’, a close friend of Rakel’s. and made this loop and then, I just the EP will be Rakel’s first. Under “About a year ago, Haffi was like improvised over it and the song just artist name RAKEL, the 28 year old ‘Rakel, you need to do something came out whole. That’s actually nev- only recently dropped her debut with your stuff! Just bring it to the er happened again since that day,” efforts, two singles entitled “Our studio,’” she says with a delicate she laughs. Favourite Line” and “Keeping Me smile. “That’s how my solo project The EP is, along with her mu- Awake” at the end of 2020 and be- started rolling. Up until then, I was sic as a whole, she emphasises, ginning of 2021. That said, she’s scared of doing my own thing.” intensely personal. “I create that A new label is up and running in long been in the industry, but now, For Rakel, Hafsteinn’s involve- music that’s serious and a little bit Iceland, called Vax and their first two it’s time for her to take centre stage ment was serendipitous, giving sad. It’s an outlet for those kinds of efforts are, to put it finely, very promis- alone. her the confidence she needed to feelings,” she explains. ing. Their first release was ‘Dysjar’ Apparently, some things do strike out on her own. “Haffi knows But while the EP starts in wist- by the doom-jazz combo Dalalæða, change. me really well and we connect fulness, of feelings of being un- and the second, ‘Music Library 02’ by through music,” she explains. “It moored, it ends with a bit more cinematic instrumental duo Hvörf, The right time was the perfect moment. The focus strength, Rakel promises. “There’s which dropped at the end of March. “The whole EP is about feeling a lit- was right and it’s been a pleasant a kind of relief at the end of the EP, The vibe brings one’s memory back tle bit unsure of what you’re doing Rakel started playing the violin at thing—making music together. I’m which is a little bit sad, but it’s also to a “little known” label called Mo’ in life,” Rakel Sigurðardóttir says six, later moving into jazz singing in happy that I started doing it now at a solution,” she concludes. “It’s dif- Wax—you know, the first label that DJ softly. “Just in general. Your place, her teenage years, which she further 27. It was the right time for me.” ficult but it happens.” Shadow appeared on in the 90s. Maybe where you’re at—it’s about kind of pursued at university. In the midst we’re just nostalgic, but this is one escaping your reality in some way.” of these studies, she began collab- Creating an outlet label that we’re excited to see more of She pauses, looking around for a orating with indie-folk star Axel and one all local music fans should pay minute as if to collect her thoughts, Flóvent, with whom she accompa- Rakel’s first single, “Keeping Me attention to. VG gpv.is/music before emphasising, once again, nied on many tours over the years. Awake”, came out in October. The Share this + Archives i8 Gallery Tryggvagata 16 101 Reykjavík [email protected]

t: +354 551 3666 www.i8.is Art

As of publishing date Emilie has now given birth to a beautiful baby! Congrats!

you became the only one who really penetrated that intense strange Artist/Curator/Friend little bubble,” he says to Emilie, a smile brightening his face. The undefinable relationship of Emilie Dalum and Michael Richardt We trust each other Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick & Emilie Dalum Years later, they both ended up back in Iceland studying at the CALLUM INNES Arts Academy, which led them to 15 April - 29 May 2021 Exhibit programme from university while further intertwine artistically. Michael was working on a perfor- First, there was Michael’s perfor- ‘Nature in Transition - Shifting mance photography project called mance ‘Sun to Pearl’, which was a Identities’ will open at the Nordic ‘The Glass Dress’. message to five generations into House on April 17th. “And that was when you started the future that saw Michael walk- taking photos of me!” Michael ex- ing about the capital area express- 27.03.–19.09.2021 “For the past half a year, I’ve claims. Emilie nods in response, ing himself at the top of his lungs. been writing a lot about what pointing at a photo close to her Emilie filmed it. Later, they began is going on here, who we are to kitchen table of Michael, which work on a hybrid project—Michael each other. Friends? Artists? A was taken that year. At the time, as artist, Emilie as curator—de- curator?” photographer Emilie she hadn’t yet professionally stud- veloped for the Hugarflug Confer- Jóhannes S. Kjarval Dalum posits from across her ied photography, but her early ence, which brought them together Eilíf & kitchen table to long duration work with Michael ignited her pas- in an even stronger way. performance artist Michael Rich- sion for the medium, ultimately “I wanted to do a performance Eggert Pétursson ardt. Neither have an answer. changing her artistic life forever about calling in my Nigerien an- Egill Sæbjörnsson But together, the two are like and becoming the photo series ‘Mi- cestry,” Michael explains. It fea- Einar Garibaldi yin and yang. Michael stands out. chael’—a selection of which will be tured a range of physical objects endur-Gjörningaklúbburinn In his wigs, bright clothing, and shown at the Nordic House. made by Michael and placed by completely fearless personality, he “I was always so appreciative of Emilie, and a one-take video of Guðrún Einarsdóttir catches the eye of everyone fortu- her documenting me. I was also Michael’s powerful live perfor- Guðrún Kristjánsdóttir nate enough to meet him. Emilie, hungry for that space to be medi- mance—which featured dark fig- Hrafnkell Sigurðsson meanwhile, is quieter, less con- ated. Something really started…” ures, newspaper articles, and his komaKatrín Elvarsdóttir spicuous. She refers to herself as Michael trails off. But like a twin, thundering voice—filmed by Emi- someone who documents, which Emilie quickly jumps in. “Without lie. Katrín Sigurðardóttir stands in opposition to Michael, us really knowing,” she concludes. In the exhibition ‘Nature in Kristján Guðmundsson who, one infers, is documented. Emilie went on to intimately Transition - Shifting Identities’ Ólafur Elíasson Nonetheless, over the years, the document Michael’s life—not just the Nordic House will pair Emi- Eternal Páll Guðmundsson two have become woven together as a performer but in his daily lie and Michael together, bringing in a way that surpasses language. routines as well—in Michael’s Co- them into a closer dialogue than Ragna Róbertsdóttir Their relationship is new territory. penhagen rehearsal studio. There, they ever have been before. Ragnar Kjartansson Now, the two will exhibit to- Sigurður Guðjónsson gether at the Nordic House as Recur- part of the ‘Nature in Transi- Steina tion - Shifting Identities’ exhibition with a collaborative project that includes ‘Densified Entity’, a video work by Michael, ‘Michael’, rence a photo series by Emilie, and ‘I Am Calling For Colours’, a drift- wood installation by Emilie.

Documentation begins Emilie and Michael met in 2010 at Performers House in Silkeborg, Denmark. “We didn’t speak that One of Emilie Dalum's 'Michael' series much but I sometimes tell people I was in awe of Michael,” Emilie says. “High heels, big dresses— Michael, who was doing a project “We trust each other,” Emilie that’s what he was wearing. And I based on his mother entitled ‘RULE concludes strongly smiling at Mi- was very young and innocent, try- PINK’, began to dive into a deeper chael, who returns it instantly. “If Kjarvalsstaðir Open daily ing to explore myself.” place in his performance art than you don’t have trust, you cannot do F l ó k a g a t a 2 4 10 h 0 0 – 17 h 0 0 Over the years they lost touch he’d been before. something like this.” 10 5 R e y k j a v í k artmuseum.is until they both ended up in Iceland “I was feeling that a lot was hap- +354 411 6400 #reykjavikartmuseum in 2012. Emilie was on an exchange pening in my space and in a way, The Reykjavík Grapevine 21 Our Picks Issue 04— 2021

Sigurður Guðjóns- are basically syn- son will be Ice- aesthesia, except land’s representa- for those without tive for the 59th synaesthesia, Venice Biennale in you know? In this 2022, but you can exhibit, he dives see his works a into the hidden bit closer to home landscapes of right now, you matter, unveiling lucky dog! Known the uncanny and Eðli hlutanna The Earth Has Many Keys Húsvörður slær í $e$n for his immersive alien character explorations of daily phenom- Until April 11th - light sculptures Until April 25th bulb that simu- April 10th-25th tion translates of machinery, ena that are o# Midpunkt and viewers will - Livin" Art lates moonli"ht. - Þula to “Janitors Big construction and ignored. So drop be able to ﬁddle Museum Accordin" to her Hit”. Helga was a relics, Sigurður by for some visual Birgir Sigurðs- with a remote statement, she There’s a lot member of the combines the and aural sensa- son and Elín control to change The Earth. The also sent a me- going on here at Kunstschlager Sigurður Guðjónsson: natural with the tions you might Anna Þórisdóttir the colours of the Universe. Man. teorite back into Þula, the gallery collective back Unseen Fields technological in a have never felt team up for this lights, thereby Time. Meet Katie space. Is that the Grapevine in the day, which series of complex before, you lucky duo-exhibition at making their own Paterson. Here, true? Perhaps simps hard for. Grapevine also April 9th-June 5th - intertwined sound dog! HJC Kópavogur’s Mid- mark. Congrats— she mapped out her real name is Made by Helga simped hard for. A BERG Contemporary and visual experi- punkt Gallery. This you’re an artist dead stars and Katie “'X Æ A-12” Páley Friðþjófs- win-win combina- ences. His works time, it’s all about now. HJC created a li"ht Paterson. HJC dóttir, this exhibi- taion. HJC

April 9th-May 6th

Raw Power MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART Wait, another Erró exhibition? You HAFNARBORG Art Listin$s Peysa Með Öllu Fyrir Alla bet! This one places Erró's works Magic Meeting - A Decate On You’d be a little taken aback if your from di%erent periods in the Spanish-Icelandic art duo Libia doctor turned up with green lips, context of contemporary Icelandic Castro and Ólafur Ólafsson haven't Events are listed by venue. For complete vampire fangs and dental braces or art. It's a diverse selection that, as done a solo exhibition at Hafnarborg listin"s and detailed information on venues, a giant tongue covered in a dozen always, contain the numerous media in 10 years. Now they're back with an tiny tongues—although maybe not reference the artist has become exploration of the Icelandic (not yet visit "rapevine.is/happenin". in these strange times—but these known for. o)cial) Constitution. Remember? Send your listin"s to: listin"s@"rapevine.is are just the sort of surreal realities • Runs until May 30th, 2021 That document written in 2008 that that Ýr Jóhannsdóttir—artist name the public agreed with in a referen- Ýrúrarí—creates. Now she’s got a REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM & dum but someone Parliament won't Opening Finnur Jónsson. The avant-garde art studio project that will see her make KJARVALSSTAÐIR o)cially ratify? of Finnur—the first Icelandic artist her tongue-filled projects using only Eternal Recurrence • Runs until May 30th, 2021 REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM & to address outer space in his works, discarded sweaters from the Red Jóhannes S. Kjarval—a#er whom the ÁSMUNDARSAFN in the first half of the 20th cen- Cross. Stop by on March 14th, 16th museum is named—is here put in LIVING ART MUSEUM Sirra Sigrún Sigurðardóttir tury—presents the artist's unfet- and 23rd to join in. dialogue with a number of promi- Katie Paterson — Sirra’s work is cosmic in nature, tered interpretation of the marvels • Runs until May 29th, 2021 nent contemporary Iceland artists The Earth Has Many Keys o#en connected to speculations of the celestial bodies, which are DEIGLUMÓR: Ceramics from Icelandic including Ólafur Elíasson, Ragnar The exhibition features works about about our position within the inner the theme of this exhibition. Always Clay 1930 – 1970 Kjartansson, Steina and Eggert the earth and the universe, geo- workings of nature, physics and remember: We are but matter expe- While ceramic art has followed hu- Pétursson. Now that's a lineup. logical and cosmic time, poetic and the forces that drive the world. Her riencing itself on a pale blue dot. mans since their earliest years, few • Runs until September 19th, 2021 philosophical connections between works o#en display our position as • Runs until January 9th, 2022 relics of ceramic art from ancient man and the world around us. Katie individuals, our significance and Iceland have been preserved. That GERÐARSAFN KÓPAVOGUR ART MUSEUM Paterson has mapped all the dead insignificance. As an existentialist EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM said, there is still a rich history of Castles In The Sky stars, created a light bulb to simu- paper, who ruminated on our own Permanent Exhibition Icelandic clay in the 20th century Kópavogur: A town that birthed not late the experience of moonlight, obscurity, we can't agree more. The museum contains close to and this exhibition is here to high- just this art museum but also artists sent a meteorite back into space, • Opens on April 22nd, 2021 300 artworks including a beautiful light the numerous workshops that Berglind Jóna Hlynsdóttir, Bjarki and developed a scented candle • Runs until October 17th, 2021 garden with 26 bronze casts of the took up the cause of Icelandic clay Bragason, Eirún Sigurðarsdóttir, and that creates a scented journey artist’s sculptures. over the last hundred years. Unnar Örn Auðarson. Now, all four from the surface of the Earth, up to MUTT GALLERY • Runs until May 9th, 2021 present their views on this grand the Moon, via the stars and into a Almar Steinn Atlason: Útför á sólar- REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM development. vacuum. ströng Settlement Exhibition REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM & HAFNARHÚS • Runs until May 15th, 2021 • Runs until April 25th, 2021 Grapevine-favourite Almar Steinn At- As Viking ruins meet digital technol- Ragnar Axelsson: GERÐUR lason presents a series of paintings ogy, this exhibition provides insight Where The World Is Melting As the first Icelandic artist to use KLING OG BANG he made from 2016-2017 while living into Reykjavík's farms at the time of Grapevine-favourite Ragnar Axelsson iron in her artwork, Gerður Hel- Yes, a falling tree makes a sound in a van on the island of La Réunion the first settlers. presents a not-to-miss exhibition gadóttir was a pioneer of three- (and it has a lot to say) in the Indian Ocean. According to with selections from his 'Faces of dimensional abstract art in Iceland. Curated by Helena Aðalsteinsdóttir, the performance artist/painter, they REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY the North', 'Glacier', and 'Heroes Of Gerður's creativity and experimental Kling og Bang’s new exhibition pres- were inspired by internal chaos, The Silent But Noble Art The North' series. Ragnar has been nature is a motif within the museum ents a series of works inspired by personal shortcomings and the Sigurhans Vignir (1894-1975) le# documenting the Arctic for over 40 and reflects its unique position of feminist science fiction. Artists such awkwardness and beautifulness of the museum an archive of around years, and in stark black-and-white being the only museum founded as Brokat Films, Tarek Lakhrissi and existence. 40,000 photographs. Many of these images, he captures the elemental, in honour of a female artist. Using more showcase reimagined futures, • Opens on April 11th, 2021 document everyday Icelandic human experience of nature at the iron plates or steel wires, the artist rewrite patriarchal narratives and • Runs until May 16th, 2021 society just a#er the creation of the edge of the liveable world. created delicate compositions in o%er artistic recentralisations of Ongoing Republic of Iceland in 1944—a chris- • Runs until May 9th, 2021 space, o#en with a cosmic refer- marginalised identities. tening, labourers at work, people Hulda Rós Guðnadóttir: WERK – Labor ence. • Runs until May 9th, 2021 NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND skating, the occupation of Iceland Move • Runs until April 18th, 2021 Of The North during World War II by British troops, Hulda Rós Guðnadóttir's installa- 'Of the North' (2001) is created from a beauty pageant, a birthday party, a tion in the lobby of the museum Steina’s archive of video recordings, wigmaker… and so on. consists of a three-channel filmic mostly of Icelandic nature—ei- • Runs until September 19th, 2021 work, sculptures, and a video ther the surface of the earth, or The Arctic Circus recording of the assembly of microscopic views: microbes, as For one and a half years, photogra- said sculptures. It's an explora- well as crashing waves and melting phers Haakon Sand and Gudmund tion of the multi-layered global ice, landslips and an array of natural Sand followed the everyday life of economy—featuring dockworks Garðatorg 1· Garðabær phenomena relating to geological Sirkus Íslands. So, you could perhaps mimicking their own work in re- Open Tue - Sun 12 -17 formation and destruction of our say... they ran away and joined (pho- peated choreography. Ooph, that planet. tographed) the circus. really puts our work into perspec- • Runs until January 9th, 2022 • Runs until May 30th, 2021 tive, right? Barren Land • Runs until May 9th, 2021 Exhibitions: In 2004, landscape painter Georg REYKJAVÍK MARITIME MUSEUM D43 Auður Lóa Guðnadóttir: Yes/No Guðni bought a plot of land and built Fish & Folk Auður Lóa Guðnadóttir—the Designer in Residence - Ýrúrarí a studio, which he entitled Berangur Name a better duo than fish and print-size sculptor and Princess Until May 23 ('Barren Land'). This name could Iceland. You can’t. So come learn Diana scholar—is here with more really be appplied to all his works he about the history of Icelandic fisher- than 100 new sculptures. So come Icelandic Ceramics 1930 – 1970 created there—they are all touched ies from row boats to monstrous experience house pets, internet Until May 9 with a rugged sensibility of the trawlers. cats, found photographs, histori- craggy weather-beaten barren land Melckmeyt 1659 cal reproductions, Instagram pics on which they were made. Check out Melckmeyt was a Dutch merchant and more put into physical form, a selection here. ship that crashed near Flatey Island exploring issues as vast as post- • Runs until April 25th, 2021 in 1659. Explore the wreck here. colonialism and institutional dis- HELLO UNIVERSE with two images of di%erent origins crimination to good ole’ humour. It's 2021 and we're over Earth. Enter against each other. • Runs until May 9th, 2021 Film

THE SWEETEST CENTURY Since opening our bakery in 1920, we have constantly pushed the boundaries of tradi- The Director re-enacting a key moment from the ﬁlm tional Icelandic baking methods. Find us in the heart of Reykjavík serving piping hot, sages. Also, it was really hard to fresh pastries made from scratch, every gauge the success of the film. It lat- morning from seven-thirty AM. er got into really good festivals, but Just Say Yes I didn't see it with an audience. So Not a sweet tooth? That’s OK. Come by for a Oscar nominee Gísli Darri on “Yes-People” I was completely clueless. But I did go through the academy process to savory brunch or taste one of our homemade Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photo: Art Bicnick & Film Still make it eligible. I was just happy sodas or craft beers. that it was eligible to be honest, and Gísli Darri Halldórsson, long a “Anyway, it made me think: is it when it was shortlisted I thought known name in animation in because our vocabulary is so lim- that was the peak. And then I was Iceland and abroad, learned last ited, that we are more sensitive nominated and I was just frozen for month that he is now also an Oscar to tone?,” Gísli says. “I remember like half an hour afterwards from nominee for directing, for a short those thoughts going through shock." animated film called “Yes-People”. my head, the fact that compared The film, which is only about to French or even English we are eight minutes, follows a day in the very poor in vocabulary. I'm sure On the horizon life of several characters, whose anyone learning Icelandic has had Interestingly, the characters in separate routines sync beautifully, this obstacle of 'how do I say this “Yes-People” may be making an- even musically. Most striking, the word in Icelandic?' and you usually other appearance in a future, per- film is nearly completely silent, need a sentence to express a word, haps longer project. employing small vocalisations and unless it's about a type of snow or "I wrote a huge story around just one word: “Já”, the Icelandic something." these characters, to facilitate the word for “yes.” animation process and make it more fun and smooth,” he says. “I Frozen know they have a huge backstory Saying a lot with a little The nomination for Best Animated and I know where they're going, The concept is reminiscent of the Short Film did catch Gísli Darri by so maybe these characters will be old chestnut that you can have an surprise, in a way. somewhere in the future. But I do entire conversation in Icelandic "I was really surprised by the write a lot, and have many more using only the word “jæja,” a word nomination, but I had shown the ideas, both animated and live ac- whose meaning changes depend- film by pure chance to a pretty big tion. This project was kind of like ing on the tone you use. Gísli Darri producer in the UK, before it even an artistic roar. I just wanted peo- sees the parallels in explaining the went into the festival circuit,” Gísli ple to know that I'm a director. I've piece’s inspiration. tells us. “And she pretty much said been an animator for a long time. "I think the seed of the idea was I immediately, 'You should consider I'm very keen on writing and di- was talking to my Irish friends and sending this to the Oscars, I think recting my own things, whether they were over for New Years, and I it has a huge chance.' I didn't re- it's short or long format. I have was explaining this thing with 'já' ally believe her. I think I'd already ideas and material for both, so I and it just made them laugh,” he had five no's from film festivals, so definitely want to chase that." tells us. “I studied languages, so I was getting a lot of mixed mes- I'm already quite obsessed with these things. I think it's a bit of a blur, because there were a lot of ideas at the same time. It was like an explosion; it wasn't just about the languages. It was also about routines and habits."

EST. 1920 “This project was kind of like an artistic roar. I just wanted people to know that I'm a Laugavegur 36, 101 Reykjavík www.sandholt.is director.” The aforementioned key moment The Reykjavík Grapevine 23 Issue 04— 2021

Careful Icarus, don't ﬂy too close to the eruption

their distance while others ventured of greater order, purpose or reason bravely just metres from the destruc- when you watch a volcano. We live so tion. I, perhaps in a stroke of good for- far from the cruelty of nature that see- tune, was relieved of the choice to go ing it naked in all its terror inevitably close—we were too high to walk down inspires some sort of existential night- The Culmination Of and back in 15 minutes. I, therefore, mare. A falling drop of lava is the result didn’t even have to consider whether I of a geological domino effect that’s oc- would heed the call of Geldingadalur or curred for millions, if not billions, of ignore it. I could, like those cave-dwell- years on our planet. And a falling drop Aeons Of Serendipity ers, merely watch from afar. of lava in an accessible, picturesque location like Geldingadalur—that’s a Flyin" to Geldin"adalur, Iceland’s newest eruption, feat. Plato watch. The creation of the watch But the watchmaker here is ethereal. If you look at the Earth on the geologic It’s nature as a whole, which—in its ter- We really don’t stand a chance, do we? The limits of life timescale, volcanoes are commonplace. ror, in its death—is also perfection. A The maximum body temperature a hu- Iceland, in particular, would probably perfect nightmare. For while volcanoes Words: With calm surrender to my fate, these man being can survive is around 44°C. resemble a pot of boiling water. But for spell death for humans, for the earth, Hannah Jane were the words that entered my mind After that, proteins denature and the us humans, who exist for but decades they herald rebirth. Old crust becomes Cohen as the helicopter steadily emerged over brain, essentially, cooks. Lava, mean- on this speck of blue dust, a volcano new, having undergone aeons in the a ridge on the Reykjanes peninsula. In while, varies between 700º to 1,200°C. is a wonder. And a volcano that you depths of the mantle reforming to once Photos: front of me—of us—the pudgy black It’s outside the realm of our existence can safely stand but a skip away from again rise to the surface and say hello Art Bicnick tephra of the Geldingadalur eruption and, despite having concocted vari- and watch it erupt—that’s an anomaly. to the sun. site unceremoniously materialised ous inventions—kevlar and such—to That’s serendipity. So no, in the face of lava, we don’t Tour provided surrounded by a bed of fresh snow, handle it, it’s up there with gamma rays The Watchmaker thought experi- stand a chance. But that doesn’t mean by Norðurflug which we were now landing on. In the and prions. It’s death. ment, popularised by philosophers like we can’t sit, watch, and marvel over the Helicopter Tours. centre of the flow, rising ominously Gamma rays and prions, though, Descartes, puts forward the notion that shadows it coughs out into the sky. Check them out like the spires of a cathedral, lied the can’t be seen by the naked eye. Lava, physical laws work so perfectly, like a at helicopter.is. craggy cone, which—as fate would have meanwhile, is like a peacock. Stand in watch, that they must imply the exis- it—was in the midst of vomiting up a front of an erupting volcano and you tence of a designer—a watchmaker. violent gush of bright, neon lava. Flying can’t help but gape at the shining or- And it’s hard not to think of some sort high in the air, the lava then landed, ange sludge. It’s mesmerising, calling spilling out the sides of the cone and out intrinsically to the depths of the settling down into the basalt until it human soul much like the songs of the cooled and, ultimately, slowly assimi- sirens. The French call it l’appel du vide lated with the days- or hours-old rock. or the call of the void—man’s innate At the moment, I couldn’t put my fascination with that which would de- finger on what I felt. It was something stroy us—but perhaps, it’s time to re- that I had never experienced before. name it l’appel du volcan. Something that truly hit me, that Because, as the helicopter slowly cir- truly troubled me. But now, days after cumvented the volcano, Geldingadalur my flight with Norðurflug Helicopter called out to me. In my head, I saw my Tours to the baby volcano, I know what foot reaching out to softly poke the pil- it was: lowy lava or putting my hand into the Awe. cloud of ash just to see what it felt like. And so I watched, buckled comfortably into my seat, as the smoke poured out of the volcano, casting a shadow over the pristine snow. It was Plato’s cave “A falling drop of lava is the result realised—and like those poor inmates, of a geological domino effect that’s I couldn’t look away. occurred for millions, if not billions, of Watching from afar years on our planet. And a falling drop Softly, we landed at the volcano for a of lava in an accessible, safe, pictur- prompt 15 minutes, which gave us a esque location like Geldingadalur— chance to admire its beauty from atop the surrounding hills. Opposite us, that’s a watch.” hikers marched like ants; some keeping WOW! The Reykjavík Grapevine 24 Music Issue 04— 2021

ICELANDIC SEAFOOD makes world’s best sushi

You should see him not in a crown

Track By Track: ‘Hvítir Alcatraz Have you ever had a crush? Well I have, and it was embarrassing and Hrafnar’ by dady awkward. In the end, my love isn’t beautiful, it's messy with badly You didn’t ask for depressive disco, but dady constructed sentences (unless I knew you needed it have time to put it into a song). Words: dady & Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Berglaug Garðarsdóttir Ég Dey

Mastering engineer Garðar S. Track By Track Þráðlaus Jónsson (Almyrkvi) created a spot-on genre for this song called Check out ‘Hvítir Hrafnar’ by dady on “Þráðlaus” is about self-hatred and “Þunglyndis Diskó” (“Depressive all streaming platforms. how it can become something you Disco”). It’s an upbeat track about unintentionally surround yourself the heart-tearing vision of seeing dady—formerly Dadykewl—has with. By writing the song I came your loved one cry because you’re been on a three-year hiatus since his to a self-realisation that I had to an asshole. last effort ‘Klámstjarna’. But thank- constructively work on self love. fully, Iceland’s resident lovestruck, Something that everybody should Groundhog Day sullen, smooth af singer has returned do. As RuPaul said: “If you don’t The best of Icelandic produce with ‘Hvítir Hrafnar’, an album about love yourself, how the hell are you We may seem happy in Iceland and with a nod to Japan and South growing up, falling in love, getting going to love somebody else? the country is beautiful, but you wise, and getting sad. try living with the lights off 70% America. Modern Icelandic of the year in a cold, windy, dark Brotna room that only has Hagkaup as flavours, share plates and award the main excursion. So on a loving Did you seriously think I was not note, I want to say to my homies winning cocktails. going to blow off some distorted out there feeling like life can be a steam on this album? Well most of bit overwhelming and tough: You you probably didn’t even consider can always reach out to me for a it, but if you did, oh boy, you were chat. I’ve been there. However, I wrong. Play this song very loud am not a professional and I know SOCIALIZE and scream at your steering wheel a lot of people find Píeta Samtökin in the early morning traffic jams really helpful to chat with. You can WITH THE while you listen to this one. also check out 39.is for more information. LOCALS Í frjálsu falli Hvítir Hrafnar Syndir Vel People told me this song could be This song wasn’t intended for the longer, but why say just something No sub-bass. No bullshit. album, as nobody seemed to like it when you’ve said it all? That’s when except me, so I shamefully stored you leave it to the talented KARÍ- Anyway, I do hope you enjoy the it and admired it in solitude. But TAS. If you’re not touched by the album, although that is not a re- during a session with the legendary end of this song, go see a doctor. quirement. Art should always be mixer Oddur Kristjánsson (Sgan- made for yourself to like with the dall), I sneaked it in. He immedi- Kastaðir Mér Út intention to inspire people that ately saw the ugly beauty of it and are better at it than you, so they gave me a lecture that I should al- And we continue in... *drumroll* can make even better art. ways follow my heart, pay taxes and ...constant agony and depression! never listen to songs in mp3. If there’s one thing to take from this, it’s that you should align your “Change is inevi- Hleyp values and happiness to the per- table, and so is the son you’re becoming. Change is I’m in my 20s and slowly growing inevitable, and so is the fact that fact that our new into legit adulthood—business our new constitution is being held constitution is be- meetings, buying milk, saying back by people with all of our na- things like “best regards”, drink- tions’ money and there is little we ing held back by ing responsibly. “Hleyp” is about can do about it. people with all of me being scared shitless of the beast of capitalism, and how it will Ódauðleg our nations’ money Our kitchen is open chew me to pieces until my core and there is little 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. ambitions are to get a promotion, I’m not going to talk a lot about 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. while the creative and optimistic this song because it’s hard. All I we can do about side of me gets tortured in a vault can say for this one is that there it.”” Sushi Social hidden under the thought of buy- is a choir solo at the end of it, so Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík ing stocks in Icelandair. Oh and check it out. Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is Sdóri fucking kills it! The Reykjavík Grapevine 25 Issue 04— 2021

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fiction, which became popular in successful and widely-respected the late 90s when former journal- fantasy writer. In 2017, she won ist Arnaldur Indriðason began the Icelandic Book Prize for her tackling the genre after he lost young adult novel ‘Vetrarhörkur’ his job. While at first his novels (‘Winter Frost’). The novel told didn’t score particularly high with the story of a devastating alien critics, readers quickly caught on attack on Earth that destroyed and his works were a cherished our entire civilization, forcing relief from the seriousiousness humanity to reckon with their of Icelandic literature, ending new post-apocalyptic reality. up making Arnaldur the most The main characters are teen- popular writer in Iceland today. age siblings, who live a relatively But the genre that very few normal life until the aliens attack. writers in Iceland have explored So far the book might sound pretty is fantasy, which is borderline conventional, but there is a twist, dumbfounding when you con- as in the second novel in the series, sider how rich in fantasy stories the story quickly turns into a bru- Icelandic history is. You can find tal splatter horror story. Therefore, remnants of it in Tolkin’s ‘Lord Of to call it different from other young The Rings,’ countless video games, adult books on the Icelandic mar- movies and so much more, but not ket would be an understatement. very many Icelandic books. Like The core of Hildur’s works is a Arnaldur, it’s clear we need a trail- brutal criticism of modern people blazer. That said, there are some and the numbness in our daily candidates, so here is a rundown lives. It’s also an exploration of of our top fantasy writers paving selfishness and how easy it is to the way for the genre in Iceland. forget the importance of not taking others for granted. Hildur is truly a unique writer, and ‘Winter Frost’ He's a friend from work! is a great start for anyone that wants to enter Icelandic fantasy. It’s a brutal truth, but as a whole, most Icelandic writers have two The Generation relatively boring characteris- tics in common. First, they take themselves way too seriously. And second, they are still kind Shapin$ Icelandic of chasing the glorious shadows of our only Nobel Prize winner Halldór Kiljan Laxness— Fantasy though they’d never admit it. Although this is changing, the Icelandic sa!as are full of fantasies, but not so repercussions of these two char- much the modern novel acteristics are that most Icelandic writers haven’t really ventured Words: Valur Grettisson Photo: Shutterstock/Tithi Luadthong beyond the “serious novel” genre. The anomaly perhaps is crime

A metal fantasy Crime Cthulhu fantasy First we have Alexander Dan Vil- Ok, it’s a damn shame that no hjálmsson. He’s possibly the most one has translated Emil Hjörvar internationally well-known Ice- Petersen’s fantasy novels, but landic fantasy writer, as his books he’s so great—and potentially if have been successful commercial- we talk him up enough, he will ly. Alexander Dan’s debut ‘Shad- get translated—that we are go- ows of the Short Days’ was trans- ing to mention him anyway. Emil lated and published by Gollancz, is one of the most prolific writ- ICELANDIC GASTROPUB a widely known and respected ers in the fantasy genre and he’s publisher in the fantasy genre. put in the effort to not only pro- The book’s stage is an alternative mote Icelandic fantasy domesti- magical Reykjavík city with wiz- cally, but also internationally. ards and half-elves-half-humans Emil’s book, ‘Nornasveimur’ striving for a revolution. It’s a well (‘The Swarming Witches’) is a su- thought-out, deep and inventive pernatural thriller that’s sort of world, and what more do we re- like if an old Icelandic saga was ally need from a fantasy novel? crossed with H.P. Lovecraft. Emil Oh yes, and did we mention often writes crime fiction where that Alexander Dan is also a hard- the detectives have to cross worlds core metal guy who is the front- to solve despicable crimes. He’s man and writes the lyrics for the only writer in Iceland who the beloved black metal project focuses primarily on the crime Carpe Noctem? Well, now we did. fantasy novel while also featuring your classic Icelandic characters: elves, trolls, ghosts, and, of course, the horrific human beings that in the end are always the most cruel creatures of them all.

The younglings There are of course more fantasy writers in Iceland, and many more to come, we’re sure. It’s interesting to point out that all of these writers are younger than 40 and considering the high quality of work they are putting out, we’re certain the genre will blow up one day in Iceland. In fact, in our opin- ion, it’s only a matter of time.

!"# KR. !"# KR. Horror (for kids?) Within Iceland though, Hildur Knútsdóttir is probably the most SÆTA SVÍNIÐ / Hafnarstræti 1-3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 27 Lifestyle Issue 04— 2021

FANCIES is where we talk to Reykjavík's most fashion-forward figures about style

Fjallkonan is a new lively restaurant & pub in the heart Hafey Viktoría of Reykjavík offering a selection of Icelandic and international dishes from local ingredients. Casual and cosy atmosphere yet still fun and festive. Hallgrímsdóttir Stop by for snacks & drinks, lunch or dinner. Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Art Bicnick Icelandic Delicacies Hafey Viktoría Hallgrímsdóttir (25) works at Fab Lab Reykjavík.

Wearing: • Boots from Rokk og Rómantík • Black jeans • Corset from Vampire Clothing • Shirt from Morticia in Helsinki • Collar from Devoir De Chatonne • Bag from the goth market at the Wave-Gotik-Treffen festival

Describe your style in 5 words: A blend of different types of goth, but mainly industrial goth, fetish goth, and a little tribal goth. Other than that, it’s very dark and dom.

Favourite stores in Reykjavík: Rokk og Rómantík is nice. I also love when Loft does the Swap ’Til You Drop events. But I usually shop online or in other countries. My favourite online shops are Vampire Clothing for cor- sets and Cyber Dog for more extreme things. There’s a store in Helsinki called Morticia, which has some very cool stuff, but my favourite place for shopping is the giant goth market at Wave-Gotik-Treffen, the biggest goth festival in the world. That’s where I got this bag.

Favourite piece: It’s probably this stomach belt/corset that I got from Morticia. It’s almost a corset but it doesn’t have boning. I really prefer buying blank shirts or pants and then adding cor- sets or other things to make the out- Must try dishes fit special and this belt really makes everything look cool. LAMB & FLATBREAD Slow cooked lamb, traditional Icelandic flatbread from the Something I would never wear: Westfjords, carrot purée, pickled red onions, horseradish sauce The worst thing I can imagine for ARCTIC CHARR & BLINI myself would be pink velvet pants. I Lighly cured arctic charr, chickpea blini, horseradish sauce, don’t like the touch of velvet so that roe, crispy lentils, yuzu-elderflower dressing would make me so uncomfortable! ICELANDIC PLATTER My daughter loves pink so I love buy- > Puffin, crowberry gel ing pink things for her, but I don’t > Minke whale, malt glaze like it on me. That said, I like when > Lamb tartar, chive mayo people dress the way that makes THE LAMB BURGER them happy, so when I see someone Bacon, mushroom & date duxelle, pickled red onions, pickled enjoying their clothes—even if it’s cucumber, rucola, smoked cheese, fries not my style—it makes me happy! SKYR ETON MESS CHEESECAKE White chocolate “Skyr” mousse, meringue, raspberries, Lusting after: raspberry sauce I really want to finish this dress that I’m half-done making. It’s a tight, pin- stripe, modular dress with big see- through puffy black sleeves that can be removed. Over that, there’s going to be a big hoop skirt, with the hoops connected with 3D printed scales Happy Hour 15-17 that can also be removed. So if it’s every day just the dress, it’ll be really classy, but with the sleeves and the hoop skirt it becomes very goth and extreme. FJALLKONAN WELCOMES YOU!

fjallkonan.rvk fjallkonan Hafnarstræti 1–3 > Tel. +354 555 0950 > fjallkona.is 15% DISCOUNT 15% discount of total bill, every day IF you bring this ticket Food

SALKA VALKA FISH & MORE Steamed Fresh Fish, Traditional Icelandic Fish ‘Stew’, Fish & Vegan Soups, Smoked Salmon & Vegan Toppings on Sourdough Bread, Beer, Wine, Coffee & more Reﬂecting on a new beginning SkólavörDustígur 23 • 101 reykjavík Di$$in$ A Way Out Austurlands Food Coop tries to recover Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Jonathan Moto Bisagni / Austurlands Food Coop / Vísir

Austurlands Food Coop, an initia- and haven't quite recovered from A nice chat with the tive started by Jonathan Moto Bisa- it fully,” Jonathan says. “The way Prime Minister gni and Ida Feltendal in 2019, was a the incentive grant system is set boon to Seyðisfjörður and Iceland up is to fund new projects. So it's Exercising his democratic right as a whole. The coop sought to bring a little bit tough for me to add new to petition elected officials, Jona- fresh organic produce to Iceland— projects onto the drawing board. than opted to go right to the top to something very lacking on our cold After reading the rules, which were amend the situation. North Atlantic rock—and their pro- just released right before Easter, I "I contacted [Prime Minister] duce boxes have been a hit. All that was kind of upset, like, jeez man, Katrín Jakobsdóttir about this, changed last December, however, all I need is some relief. I don't need she called me back, and we actu- when landslides struck the East to add more to my plate. To me, in ally talked about this,” he tells us. Iceland village and badly hurt their my situation, in order to help these “I said that I'm not asking for a business. They lost a great deal of businesses that exist, and were af- hand-out of free money or some- stock, and incurred damages in the fected by this, it would be nice if the thing. What would really help me millions. government stepped in and helped out is if I could have access to a Since then, they have been strug- with uninsured losses and things government-backed loan, like the gling to recover, and recently held a like this." one they offered all these tourism sushi pop-up in an effort to do just "My business lost quite a lot of that. But as Jonathan tells us, they money, and had to pay out a lot of are far from out of the woods. expenses, somewhere in the range of 3 to 5 million ISK,” he continues. “But other businesses were com- Shaky ground pletely wiped out. Like the hair- "I don't know where we'd be right dressers was completely wiped out. now if we didn't do the sushi pop- The only thing that's been covered up,” he tells us. “I don't know how by disaster insurance has been real we would've been able to pay our estate. So landlords and people that bills. I feel like it was the right thing bought property in this town have to do at the right time. It worked gotten compensated for the fire ap- out, and it got us through that praisals of their buildings that were month. That being said, we're still completely destroyed." on some shaky ground. We're scrap- Jonathan points out: "In Seyð- ing by. We've never been super prof- isfjörður it's a weird situation, be- itable, but we're just chipping away cause of the threat of landslides, at added-up debt." we have an artificially low property The duo are currently exploring value. So the fire appraisal is some- other ways of getting back on their times six times the market value feet, including various funds and of the house. A lot of people that Laugavegi 28 grants, such as those offered by the owned those buildings got compen- non-government organisation Aus- sated well more than they paid for 537 99 00 turbrú. These options have been far the house, which is great for them, [email protected] from perfect, however. but a lot of the smaller guys with sumac.is "My only problem initially with smaller businesses like myself, this is I already have my hands we've incurred losses that are not full with the situation right now, insured at all." The Reykjavík Grapevine 29 Food Issue 04— 2021

Jonathan in his element businesses. It's great for tourists, sort of support. But it's not really "That's how this project has got- but I feel like I've been working my the support I'm actually looking for. ten to where it's been,” he says. “It's ass off through this pandemic, and She texted me back asking if we can just been people really happy to be something like this. I'm facing los- talk about this after Easter, and she a part of something that they know ing everything because there wasn't was very nice. Then I spoke with the will change things and improve the proper defensive action taken 20 people at Austurbrú who explained quality of life." years ago when they made this risk that this was actually a good thing When asked what others can do assessment originally, or because and made for people like me." to help out, Jonathan is very suc- some elected official prioritised an- cinct. other project over having defenses "Just call me,” he says. “That's on our mountains and protecting Just call him! how we started this thing. When our people." "I'm hoping that the outcome of I think about becoming more le- "She was super nice,” he says. these funds is something that's go- gitimate a business in the future, “We talked for a half an hour, and ing to be very long term, and will I'm doing this because of a need. I then someone from her office put our company on a trajectory see that someone needs to do this. reached out to me and we talked where it's more streamlined and I’m almost doing this out of activ- for an hour and a half. They were we have the proper facilities,” Jona- ism. Eating good is a right; not a very kind and empathetic and un- than says. “We're right now running privilege. People should have va- derstanding." on a very DIY, just-get-it-done kind riety. They should have options "Once the allocation rules were of thing." and not feel cornered into buying released I texted her asking what At the same time, the success something because it's 50% off. It's was going on because I'm drown- of the Austurlands Food Coop was a weird way to do your shopping. So ing in work as it is, and it seems built on people believing in what right now, we really need an 'angel like I'm being asked to create more they’re doing, and that’s what they investor', as they call it. We need work in order just to receive some need most right now. someone who sees what we're doing, and sees it as the natural pro- gression for food. People are going to want healthier options, fresher REYKJAVIK EST. 2012 options. This is something that hasn't been embraced wholly by our current grocery stores. We really need someone with deep pockets who sees this inevitable future to get us out of surviving mode, and FRENCH ONION SOUP into thriving mode, so that we can Icelandic Ísbúi cheese, croûtons actually become something that's 2.490 kr. never going to go away. But apart from that, even just subscribing to MOULES MARINIÈRES the boxes really helps us out, be- steamed mussels from Breiðafjörður cause this helps us run our business 2.600 kr. more efficiently. We're coming up now in prime season, and for the FISH OF THE DAY next six months it just gets better chef´s special and better." 3.990 kr. Lunch offer from 11:30 - 14:00 1.990 kr. You can visit https://foodcoop.is/ for more information and to subscribe to their boxes.

ÓÐINSTORG | 101 | REYKJAVÍK | ÍSLAND SNAPSBISTRO.IS | +354 5116677

A view of the devastation “The air became filled with a deep orange hue that made me feel Travel like I had stepped into Mordor. All that was missing was Sauron’s eerie gaze.”

One Does Simply Walk To Geldin!adalur

Thin!s are heatin! up at the volcano site and we’re absolutely lavin! it

Words: Owen Tyrie Photos: Art Bicnick

Over the past two months, Iceland’s making the surroundings look simul- ing down, reflecting brightly off the creating what look like cracks into hell. been shakin’ like the Stevens due to taneously soft and rugged. The path snow. The surroundings looked as if Smoke slowly rose from the area and the crazy amount of seismic activity itself was relatively well-made—bar they had been plucked from Game of as the sky turned dark, the air became going down on the Reykjanes penin- the odd rock protruding through the Thrones or even Death Stranding, a filled with a deep orange hue that made sula. Finally, in mid-March, the sur- mud, waiting to break some unfortu- video game heavily inspired by Icelan- me feel like I had stepped into Mor- face cracked, giving way to an all-new nate soul’s ankle—and carved right dic landscapes. After a short break, we dor. All that was missing was Sauron’s Travel distance volcano: Geldingadalsgos. It’s a special next to a large snowy mountain, which pushed on along the path before being menacing gaze. from Reykjavík: eruption; not just because it may go on loomed over everyone as they trudged greeted by the phenomenal sight of the 40 km for years, but because of how relatively along, as if nature was watching our volcano. Death to drones accessible it is to normies like myself. every step. After about a mile or so, the So why not join me on a guided tour first challenge awaited: a steep, rocky Mount Doom, without the The slopes surrounding the volcano of the latest addition to Iceland’s fine hill climb. were packed with other people enjoy- collection of volcanoes? orcs ing the site. There were people with A scramble to the top That first glimpse of the volcano will picnics, taking selfies and plenty were Only a hop, skip and a big stick in my mind forever. It’s pictur- flying drones over the action; I couldn’t The path cut straight up the hill, with esque; walking through a small valley help but wish to see a drone drop out ass hill away loose rocks everywhere waiting to with the large black volcano sitting of the sky and for some poor bugger to Upon arrival at the trailhead, it was shift underneath one’s weight. It felt ominously in the distance. The lava cry in despair. Am I cruel for wanting hard to ignore the sheer number of far safer to go up on all fours, but that spewing out of its top comes into view that? Probably. cars clogging the road. Automobiles came with the caveat of looking like upon approach, like a guiding light The skies weren’t just filled with of all shapes and sizes lined the road a right tit. People were slipping left, beckoning you to come closer. drones, but planes and helicopters for what seems like miles, all parked right and centre as they made their way After a short walk through the val- circling ahead which annoyingly precariously on the edge of the tarmac. up the mountain side, but some kind ley, I emerged to get my first proper drowned out the noise of the volcano. Support the Grapevine! View this QR code in your You’d think one big gust of wind would porter had left behind a handy nylon look at the eruption site in all its glory After waiting long enough, the pesky phone camera to visit tip them all over, but it seemed safe rope for the less confident volcano- and, oh boy, is it glorious. Two cra- flying machines departed and we were our tour booking site enough, so we joined the conga line goer to grasp as they made their way ters continuously erupt, throwing out left with the sound of the eruption it- and began our ascent to the site. up and down. We salute you, whoever magma into the surrounding area. As self; a constant cracking and crashing The weather was glorious and put it there! stupid as it sounds, I had no idea how of lava hitting the rocks beneath it. the scenery even better. A thin layer The view from the top was breath- bright the lava would be; it glows like a Music to my ears. of snow covered the landscape like a taking. Literally. Absolutely knackered neon light as it flows out of the craters As darkness came, I was reluctant cozy old blanket, and dark black rocks from climbing my way to the top, I sat and it's hard not to be taken back by to leave and I envied all those who protruded through the bright white, and let it all sink in. The sun was beam- the sight of it. One certainly gets an had brought tents to stay the night. overwhelming feeling of awe watching However, it was pretty darn cold at the lava. No matter how long I looked I that point—despite the fact that I was remained impressed. standing just 100 or so metres from Circling further around the volca- molten lava. As I turned to leave, I no netted a view of the lava field that took one last look and drank it all in. surrounds the peak of the eruption. There’s really nothing quite like seeing Looking over the matte black hardened a volcano, and I implore anyone who magma created a surreal blurry view has the chance to visit to take a trip to of the landscape behind the volcano. Geldingadalur. The lava slowly seeps through the rock, I’m sure you’ll absolutely lava it.

Unfortunately, Sméagol was unavailable as a guide that day CAST IT INTO THE FIRE! DESTROY IT! The Reykjavík Grapevine 31 HORROR!SCOPES was very dramatic. And you never Issue 04— 2021 let anyone forget about that, do you? Sagittarius WELL, YOU ASKED If there’s something Sagittarius WHAT VOLCANO R U? likes, it’s media attention. There- Virgo fore, there’s none better volcano Words: H"nn"h J"ne Cohen to represent you than Iceland’s In 1985, Mount St. Helens unex- very own Eyjafjallajökull. Its The Grapevine’s team of amateur the surface of the Pacific Ocean. pectedly blew, killing 57 people, 2010 eruption caused lots of astrologists recently read online It was, for a short time, declared including Harry Randall Truman, havoc worldwide—from thou- that people who like astrology also the largest single volcano in the a lodge owner who considered sands of grounded aeroplanes to really like personality quizzes. world, until—in a Pluto-esque himself part of the mountain, stumbling newscasters trying In an attempt to appease this situation—it wasn’t. Taurus, like and Reid Blackburn, a photojour- to report on it—but in the end, group—and the advertisers that Tamu Massif, so-called experts nalist who heroically went to the it didn’t actually hurt anybody specifically target them—we have been stealing your spot- unstable volcano to document it. or cause any real damage. Basi- went to the cosmos and bothered light recently. Don’t let them. Just There’s only one sign that would cally, the ideal sort of attention- the constellations long enough to fucking get taller and explode. so viciously slaughter people that seeking behaviour. Brava! adequately determine… just what Show Hawaii’s Mauna Loa (tHe just wanted to, you know, hang volcano they were. TaLlEsT vOlCaNo In ThE wOrLd) out and get to know them and who is boss. that’s you, Virgo. This month, take a leaf from Fagradalsfjall Capricorn and stop (fatally) pushing away those that want to be close to you. Did you know Tenerife is a vol- Aries Gemini cano? Yes, the well-known party NFTs &

vacation island could easily be Curiously, Mount Etna has been No one exactly knows how Cali- the site of a massacre one day. Libra Vegan Spit unexpectedly active these last fornia’s Clear Lake Volcanic Field This about that next time you’re weeks. Since February 26th, the even exists. It’s not on a subduc- pounding back shots. We don’t Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine volcano has been spewing lava tion zone, rift zone, or hotspot, Easy! Kilimanjaro. Why? Because want to say you have a problem, Photo: Eugeny Hramenkov and showering ash every 48 hours so scientists have determined it even though it grabs headlines as but... on the dot. Apparently, this level must be related to the San An- the largest mountain in Africa, of mathematical precision is dreas fault in some way. So basi- the trek up is notoriously easy. You keep asking, we keep answering. rather unusual. In fact, the regu- Just like you. cally, it’s a fucking strange enig- Aquarius larity is actually making scien- matic mystery… much like you. Should I make my art an NFT? tists wary. Does this hit a little Deep in the desert of Chad lies too close to home? Ever notice Yes totally. Sure, non-fungible tokens Scorpio Emi Koussi, the volcano deter- how scared people seem to get are bad for the environment, specu- when you start getting your shit mined to be most similar to Cancer lative in value at best, underline the together? Why? Because that usu- Don’t hurt us, Scorpio—even Mars. Aquarius, your creativity is entire problem of the modern art ally means that soon said shit is though we know you, with your similarly otherworldly. And you The chill and party-ready Cancers going to rain down all over their Avoidant Attachment Style, in- are most certainly a Chad too. Go movement catering to the rich, and of the world are emblematic of little lives. Maybe don’t next time. evitably will—but you’re without get’em tiger. can easily be circumvented by taking Indonesia’s famed tourist des- Maybe best you leave it be. a doubt the fucking Yellowstone a screenshot of the art in question, but tination Mount Bromo. As they Caldera Supervolcano. No one can you shouldn’t let that stop you. Clout famously state: Mo Bros, Mo Fun. ever anticipate just when you will doesn’t come for free! fly off the handle, but it’s widely known (and studied) that when Pisces Taurus My roommate made fun of me for you do, you will basically just de- Leo waving at the volcano livestream stroy the entire world for at least Not a volcano. More a sinkhole of The extinct Tamu Massif lies, at a century. despair. camera. AITA? its shallowest, 1,980 metres below Krakatoa. You erupted once. It No, you are absolutely not TA. People all over the world are watching the volcano livestream. This is your best shot at getting your face out there for all to see. It could land you a call from a Hol- lywood producer or modelling agency. Don’t listen to naysayers’ claims that you’re blocking the view of the volcano. You’ve seen one volcano, you’ve seen them all. It’s not like the volcano is going to do something surprising and unexpected, like erupting lollipops or whatever.

Is it vegan to let my girlfriend spit in my mouth?

This is a complex question with many implications. If your girlfriend has enthusiastically consented to spit in your mouth and will suffer no ill con- sequences for declining to spit in your mouth, then it is probably vegan. How- ever, human saliva does contain numerous microorganisms incapable of consenting to being transferred to another mouth for consumption, so maybe it isn’t vegan. Listen to your heart. CITY SHOT by Art Bicnick Winter is back

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LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND

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Get Grapevine Merch! shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is “It was a wonderful feeling, like you have a new bottle shop.grapevine.is* of champagne.” shop.grapevine.is Eydís Evensen, composer, on how she felt after releasing her first single. P12

“For the past half a year, I’ve been writing a lot about what is going on here, who we are to each other. Friends? Artists? A curator?” Artists Emilie Dalum and Michael Richardt discuss their long-time undefinable relationship on the cusp of a new exhibition at the Nordic House. P20

“It was Plato’s cave re- Don't Hesitate! alised—and like those poor Act Now! inmates, I couldn’t look *You only need to type the URL in once away. ” We went to the Geldingadalur eruption site and got all philosophical and shit. P29

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