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PDF of Issue California Agriculture JULY-SEPTEMBER 2003 ■ VOLUME 57 NUMBER 3 Wine and artisan cheese find their niche University of California | Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources | Research in Agricultural, Natural and Human Resources Specialty crops and value-added products: a bright spot in California agriculture ver the last century, California pay a premium price. The California Milk Advisory Board growers have pioneered hundreds along with innovative processors and distributors and UCCE ofO specialty crops and value-added advisors in Humboldt, Sonoma, Marin, Glenn and Merced Ellie Rilla products. Today we produce more than counties are working with dairy operators who want to pro- County Director, 350 commodities, and supply more duce artisan cheeses. UC Cooperative than half of the nation’s fresh fruit and Extension, Likewise, growers in Marin County are finding enthusias- Marin County vegetables. An important component tic markets for grassfed beef and eggs from range-fed hens, in the remarkable success of California as well as cut flowers and cool-weather coastal crops such as agriculture has been the willingness of farmers to be innova- artichokes and berries. In a recent UC Cooperative Extension tors and early adapters — whether it’s planting new crops or survey, 24% of Marin County growers were marketing value- developing new markets. added products such as organic dairy products, natural However, recent market trends in many traditional com- wool and olive oil. About half (47%) of those surveyed were modities have led to consolidation of the grower-processor- interested in adding value-added products to their farming retail chain, often at the expense of smaller, family-operated operations. operations. Small farmers find they have only limited ability Since 1987, UCCE Sonoma County has offered an to influence the market prices that allow them to continue 18-week course on specialty crop production, which includes farming, let alone make a profit. This concentration of mar- marketing information on how to set up a farmers’ market kets — along with global competition — has forced produc- booth, start a subscription farm or package products for ers to look for new niches. wholesale or retail. In Fresno County, the Small Farm Incu- Many growers have found that it pays to go the extra step bator Project — a collaboration between UCCE and local and provide consumers with specialized, value-added prod- agencies and nonprofits — provides information to minority ucts, like farmstead cheeses, boutique olive oil and premium farmers on small farming practices, including marketing and wine (see page 71). For instance, production of specialty postharvest issues. cheeses more than doubled between 1993 and 2001 (see page Ventura County farm advisors are pointing small growers 76). This renaissance of specialty foods has not only been a toward lucrative, unique subtropical crops like lychee, pas- boon to growers and consumers, it has revitalized rural com- sion fruit, cherimoya, longan and star fruit. Similarly, small munities and in some cases improved the environment. farm advisors are evaluating the suitability of new specialty Small growers have tapped new markets, including sell- crop varieties for the San Joaquin Valley including 300 pep- ing their specialty products directly to consumers through pers, 200 squash, 180 tomatoes and 42 blueberries, as well as farmers’ markets in the Bay Area, Los Angeles, Silicon Valley, blackberries, papaya and tomatillo. San Diego and other population centers. Local farmers’ mar- Some small farmers have pursued agritourism to create kets have increased from just two in 1977 to more than 400 income and add value to the farm. The UC Small Farm Cen- today, generating over $150 million of business annually. En- ter and UC Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education trepreneurial growers can bring their products directly from Program offer workshops and a guide to help growers set up the farm to city residents who appreciate freshness, quality such ventures. and variety, and are willing to pay for it. California’s organic industry, while still a small part of the Growers who concentrate on specialized and value-added state agricultural economy with less than 2% of gross sales, is products seem to be recreating a market that was popular showing dramatic growth. What began as a small, alternative a century ago when personal contact and regional identity growing method is being mainstreamed by larger operators were commonplace due to transportation and refrigeration who are farming specialty crops such as lettuce, broccoli, constraints. California’s specialty cheese boom is a case in strawberries and wine grapes on certified organic acreage point. The popular Point Reyes Original Blue Cheese was across the state. born of owner Bob Giacomini’s desire to The UC Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources keep his kids on the farm. At the same time, Giacomini was recognizes the importance of new crops and value-added able to cut his herd size in half, easing pressure on pastures, products for California agriculture’s long-term viability and reducing water-quality concerns and thereby lightening the the need for research and extension efforts that can help re- load on his entire dairy operation while still making a profit. duce risks inherent in adopting them. By providing sound Giacomini and other dairy producers have discovered that science and guidance for creative innovation, UC can pro- the geographically specific qualities and flavors that the milk mote a diverse and viable agriculture — one that provides carries from the soil, water and pastures into the cheese cre- opportunities for growth and advances the well-being of all ates unique flavor characteristics for which consumers will Californians. News departments California 68 Letters Agriculture Economic analysis clarified Skeptical about soil quality News and Peer-reviewed Research published bimonthly by the Division of Agriculture and Research update Natural Resources, University of California 69 VOLUME 57, NUMBER 3 Breeding and genetics key to stemming Pierce’s disease Executive editor: Janet White Managing editor: Janet Byron Central Valley growers Art director: Davis Krauter pulling grapevines Publications assistant: Jessica Glikshtern California Agriculture 1111 Franklin St., 6th floor Research articles Oakland, CA 94607-5200 Phone: (510) 987-0044; Fax: (510) 465-2659 71 California’s wine industry [email protected] enters new era http://danr.ucop.edu/calag COVER: The strength of California agricul- ture has always been its ability to adapt Heien, Martin Mailed at periodicals postage rates at Oakland, CA and at additional and find new markets for unique products. mailing offices. Postmaster: Send change of address “Form 3579” to Consumers are drinking better but less California Agriculture at the above address. (ISSN 0008-0845) In recent years, growers have excelled at RATES: Subscriptions free upon request in U.S.; $24/year outside developing value-added products such as wine; the wine industry has broken into the U.S. After publication, the single copy price is $5.00. Orders premium wine (see page 71) and artisan distinct price and quality sectors. must be accompanied by payment. Payment may be by check or cheeses (see page 76). UC advisors have international money order in U.S. funds payable to UC Regents. MasterCard/Visa accepted; requests require signature and card played a key role in helping them cultivate 76 Sampling and farm stories expiration date. Please include complete address. and market the wide range of delicious prompt consumers to buy Articles published herein may be reprinted, provided no specialty crops and products found in pro- advertisement for a commercial product is implied or imprinted. specialty cheeses Please credit California Agriculture, University of California, citing duce aisles and farmers’ markets across the volume and number, or complete date of issue, followed by inclusive state (see page 66). Reed, Bruhn page numbers. Indicate ©[[date]] The Regents of the University of California. Photographs may not be reprinted without permission. Artisan cheese consumers are “food UC prohibits discrimination against or harassment of any person experimenters” who want to know on the basis of race, color, national origin, religion, sex, physical or mental disability, medical condition (cancer-related or genetic charac- the story behind the cheese, and they teristics), ancestry, marital status, age, sexual orientation, citizenship, will pay for quality. or status as a covered veteran (special disabled veteran, Vietnam-era 81 veteran or any other veteran who served on active duty during a war or in a campaign or expedition for which a campaign badge has Low-income consumers, been authorized). University Policy is intended to be consistent with 81 the provisions of applicable State and Federal laws. Inquiries regard- though less aware of ing the University’s nondiscrimination policies may be directed to genetically modified the Affirmative Action/Staff Personnel Services Director, University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources, 300 Lakeside Dr., 6th foods, are concerned Floor, Oakland, CA 94612-3550 or call (510) 987-0096. and want labels ©2003 The Regents of the University of California King In focus groups, ethical and safety Associate Editors Animal, Avian, Aquaculture concerns were cited most often; & Veterinary Sciences nutrition programs should address Edward R. Atwill 86 emerging food technologies.
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