CONNECT TO THE BEST OF HONG KONG AND BEYOND
DECEMBER 2018 • ISSUE 1 THE INFLIGHT MAGAZINE OF HONGKONG AIRLINES
診ݰ犋؊ Moveable feasts 12 hours, four wheels, one hungry writer: a quest to devour Los Angeles’ smorgasbord of global fl avours 聅ޱ碟纷य़䜗物洠敋蝿၎繮牧 ෭瑛哴吚瑿䛑ํ哴ํጱ獊ꖒ֯訐 DECEMBER 2018
852 Cover.DL.PZ.MS_TP.indd 1 16/11/18 12:49 PM ꗹ Eat your ᤈ How many cuisines can you try in the City of Angels in 12 hours? If you’re Kate Springer, quite a few… ꗹ way ݰ 皈ݢ犥ߝ瑛吚瑿ग़靦圵کࣁ̿ॠֵԏउ̀၎繮牧㮆ੜ䦒獉 犋ݶ芸羬ޫ牫Kate Springer咳匍物ܻ㬵傶괚犋靦ŏŏ ၎ through 繮
Photos by Marianna Jamadi Los Angeles
HK 852 Dec-2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 34 19/11/18 5:22 PM HK 852 Oct -2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 35 19/11/18 5:22 PM tepping out onto West Olym- chef Roy Choi. “If you went to other cities pic Boulevard, west of down- in the interior of America and you weren’t town Los Angeles, the fi rst a fl uent English speaker, you might stand S thing I notice about Gue- out. But in Los Angeles, you could more laguetza Restaurante – an Oaxacan res- easily fi nd your community. Plus, every- taurant located in Koreatown – is its cit- one loves the weather.” rus-hued façade. There are murals on all It’s easy to see the appeal. During my sides, one of which depicts a smiling boy time in LA, the temperature hovers around wearing a sombrero and holding a rooster 22°C, with an intermittent breeze and a under the shade of the building’s eaved roof. soft kiss of sunlight. It couldn’t be prettier. In any other city, a Mexican restaurant Weather, education, safety, free speech... might seem out of place in Koreatown, but these are just a few of the reasons LA appeals I’m in LA, where the city of 10 million is to immigrants. home to people from more than 140 coun- Which bring us back to Guelaguetza. tries speaking over 220 languages. Besides I’m in LA on a mission to sample as many Mexican, there are also Chinese, Japanese international cuisines as possible in a day and various other Korean fusion cuisines – 12 hours, to be exact. The task is daunt- along the street I’m on. ing so rather than go at it alone, I enlist the “Historically, we’ve been a relatively wel- help of Lisa Scalia, co-founder of Melting coming place for immigration,” says Richard Pot Food Tours. With 10 years of leading Foss, a food writer, researcher and board food tours of the city under her belt, I can’t member of Culinary Historians of South- think of anyone better to join me on the ern California I meet some time later for race from one corner of LA to another to Korean-Mexican short rib burritos at Kogi sample the city’s most diverse bites. And Food Truck, founded by Korean-American the clock starts… now!
螈၎繮ӥउ玟犥ᥜ牧 ݥ㯽妞Ӥ牧౯㮉ฎӞ㮆ፘ䌘稭 ᆘ牧ॠ䶷ꕰฎঅ禅ԧ牐၎繮ک Top to bottom Guelaguetza serves ᑏ࿆Ոॊጱ㱢讨牧ᴻԧॠޕ य़螇䦒牧 蜰ꔢᑏ࿆ጱ瑿ො牐̀5LFKDUGظfood from Oaxaca, a 굂Ӥᥜ霥玚 remote region in *XHODJXHW]D5HVWDXUDQWH訇 )RVV抋牐犢ฎӞ֖聅觬֢疑ّ 䶷牏硽ᙙ牏ᐒ괡လਞ抷ᛔ 癥觶觬稲 ኧԏक़牧螭ํ战战ग़ग़牐ےܖ౯ጱ牧ฎٌລ秙ᜋ Ꮈ绗Ո㹓牧犖ฎޕضsouthwest Mexico; 皣ሲ Guelaguetza’s क़℃牐ಅํ℃ᶎ᮷괯Ӥॅ向牧 ݥ䋊疑肥괡ጱ甛㹓牐̿ইຎ֦ 蝡Ӟ獥݈䌔౯㮉癲ࢧ homely interior ၎کஃ聅㾴獉褢ٌ犢瑿ො牧ᘒ舣 *XHODJXHW]D牐౯㬵ڹ ӾӞଏ矟괯Ӟ㮆盏ᒞጱካٌ ጱ扖牧괡ࣁՈᗭӾ 繮牧ํӞ㮆盄᯿ᥝጱ犨率物疰ڥӤᛗӥ物 牧犢毣ಀूᥜ珠疝ଌ牧ࣁୌ 承犋ꔷ 牐֕ࣁ၎繮牧֦ݢ ฎࣁӞॠ獉ݰ哴㾴ꘉ聅觬ʒڊ櫚牐 ᇙ獨统لXHODJXHW]D訇皣䌕籧ू ꖇᇔጱ罍ӥ೭茐Ӟ櫇* ᛔ૩ጱ碢蕏ᐒ ๅ伛嘦㬵抋ฎੜ䦒牐౯螩抬ک癥ྋਤ ࣁٌ犢उ૱ጱ覮㾴उ樄戔ूᥜ ๅ斕ฃ瑿ತܜ蟂絮ߢܖᥜ珠ᥜ य़簴粆聅觬蝿̀ጱ肥ݳ獺̿ک 芸ୗ牪扗訇皣ጱਰ獉蕕鹫 珠訇皣牧眤憽婦괡໒໒犋獈牧 ᗭ牐ٚᘏ牧ಅํՈ᮷ࡅ䙄蝡愊 笕疑ସ伩ꘜ眤ش 氥ᘒ 旰Ո/LVD6FDOLD㷢ꖮ౯ጱᤈێ蝡愊ฎ၎繮牧૱獉苭 ጱॠ䶷牐̀蝡ොᶎጱ諆֕ ଙ砾犨૱獉ጱ܈ஃ聅罕覮蕏 纷牧甇ꔣ螂݄ڹՈݗӾ牧۱ೡԧ㬵ᛔ᩻螂 ฃ憎牐౯ꖮ)RVV 㮆㾴疑ֵአ圵承ጱ૱ Ԇ䓻5R\&KRL樄獺ጱ.RJL聅觬 聅觬㽷疩牧癲覿螂犋靦碟ਮ牐 牐ᴻԧूᥜ珠芸ԏक़牧౯蛪 敋牧ߝ瑛覮ୗ肴矎ूᥜ珠ሳᔂ ౯㮉绝ꔨ૱獉犋ݶ薫苽牧ߝ瑛࿆ ䷱麁ጱ聅ꥊ֯ꥇ牐伛㯪অز訁牧吚䦒ጱ䶷伩盈ꔣ硢࿄ ग़ܫ Ӿ㾴芸牏෭׀괷ጱᤋ螇螭 ํ牫聅觬ԏ碟匍ࣁ樄ত牦طೃ牧檚ޖ芸ग़圵覮㾴ᣟ芸ୗ牐̿稲 ଶૢݦ牧盏觓
36 DECEMBER 2018
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HOUR 1
“Back in Mexico, my dad was a mezcal Oaxacan Cuisine producer. But he moved here in 1993, when in Koreatown Mexico was going through a huge economic crisis. The crisis hit us hard,” shares Bricia Lopez, one of the restaurant’s co-owners. Inside the spacious Guelaguetza, a riot of Bricia’s father, Fernando, had family liv- energy explodes from the fl oral tabletops, ing in LA, so the move made sense. When black-and-white murals and turquoise walls. he arrived, Fernando longed for Oaxacan The family-run restaurant, now in its sec- cuisine but couldn’t fi nd it anywhere, so he ond generation, specialises in authentic started selling traditional dishes door to cuisine from Oaxaca – a remote region in door. After about a year in LA, he was suc- southwest Mexico that’s known for a dis- cessful enough to open a brick-and-mor- tinct cuisine that’s unlike any Mexican you tar restaurant and move his family here, might have tried. where they found the second largest pop- Oaxacan food tends to be smoky, spicy ulation of Oaxacan people outside of Mex- and packed with local ingredients like avo- ico and sought to cultivate a meeting place cado leaves, chocolate, cloves and a chilli for the community. pepper known as pasilla you can only fi nd “From the beginning, Guelaguetza was in the region. The signature sauce – like really popular with the Oaxacan commu- sriracha in LA or XO in Hong Kong – is nity because the other types of Mexican mole, which I eat by the spoonful. Made food were nothing like what they were used with crushed nuts, sesame, bananas, gar- to,” says Bricia. “When people dine here, lic, cinnamon and chocolate, the result is we want them to feel they’re immersed a little smoky, a little spicy, a little sweet in the culture – with the music, interiors, – and altogether addictive. food and community.”
ᒫӞ㮆ੜ䦒 ᜋ策ꗿ牧疰ই၎繮ଉ憎ጱฎ ጱ䦒狡牧覍ଉ䟑盢絮ߢܜ癥ጱ 牧ಅ犥ک癥芸ୗ 癩ኝᬘꗿ굉ጱ;2ꗿ牧虏 觬ᇔ牧ॱ֜ਠ獊ತ犋ܜ覮㾴उ愊ጱ絮ߢ ߝ瑛牐蝡ྃ策 犢ᛔ獺ԧ㯽妞疑暱芸क़蝑๐ۺ౯犋ꕼ೭蚏仼 狱य़ጱ*XHODJXHW]D訇皣 ꗿጱාํຎՌᏦ牏臨Ἃ牏굉 率牐ࣁ၎繮ኞၚӞଙ牧犢 樄戔ێጱኞ犖ᓒ犋梊牧ํꖥ ޱ牧ێ霎ໜໟᶎ牏ἓጮ 莹牏ꖿ毣牏ᙂ໗ݘ܍獉牧翖犥ꖴ 向萠翑ᜋ℃蛪牧筕咳Ӟ胂 螇ݶ䦒癲ํ簔籹牏굉ᬘኝ聅 訇皣㪔ኩ抬疑Ո螂㬵ਧ牧ୌॅ ܜ憽牧犤ՈӞݰӤ緝牐̿螭 缏蚏ूᥜ珠हक़ᒫԫय़絮ߢޱ牐蝡樌疑ସୗ訇皣牧 ጱێᄯჍၚ 樄Ӟ㮆虏ݶ暱ێই犡ኧᒫԫդ疑碢౮㹓妿籧牧 ࣁूᥜ珠ጱ䦒狡牧౯ᇁᇁฎ 癥ᐒᗭ牧ꖬ ଙ 肞Ḓጱ瑿讨牐̿*XHODJXHW]D 凟蟸ኞ叨珶牐犢ꔣܜ癥ጱྋਤ芸 ේܜ䛑絮ߢ׀䌕槹 癥Ո稭ܜ蝡愊牧吚䦒ूᥜ珠ྋ妿 Ӟ樄ত疰窼ݑ絮ߢک蟂 螠ܖ癥傶ूᥜ珠ᥜܜୗ牐絮ߢ 秚牧䌘౯㮉ꗰ౮盄य़ 蜰牧ࢩ傶ٌ犢圵气ጱूᥜ珠觬ܧӞ㮆؇螐瑿玟牧ٌᇙᜋ芸ꖮ౯ 稲妿ꕆ 螇ਠ獊犋ޱጱूᥜ珠芸౼ꕍ ጱ䢗牐̀訇皣䩚ԆԏӞ ߝꖮ犢㮉ᆧ盿ጱک㮉ଘ䦒ߝ瑛 癥芸؇ݻ簔籹굉 %ULFLD/RSH]抋牐%ULFLDጱᆿꗖ ݶ牐̀%ULFLDꖘ螇牐̿౯㮉ܜ犋ݶ牐絮ߢ ጱܜ牧ଉଉ䟖አᇍရຎꖼ牏 )HUQDQGRํꗖ֘ࣁ၎繮牧 磭ਮՈਠ獊ဃ蠜ꔣ絮ߢޱᬘ觓 扗૱犖ฎݳቘ犋螂 麁ԏӾ牧꘨涢加ᇙጱᶪ䰐牏蕕ک牏ӟ굉吚瑿加ํጱᬘ 硲ྌᑏ࿆ێݘ ၎繮 鹫牏聅觬ᐒᗭ㵕牐̀ک༜ᒵ觬獈ꥇ牐ݷ傶PROHጱᇙ ጱ究ਧ牐)HUQDQGR㬵
DECEMBER 2018 37
HK 852 Oct -2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 37 19/11/18 5:23 PM HOUR 3 Elbowing through crowds for Brazilian churrasco
From Koreatown, we race west to the share his mother’s recipes. Grilled on enor- Original Farmers Market to get a feel for mous spits, the medium-rare chunks of what’s arguably the city’s original foodie Brazilian beef are mostly unadulterated, hotspot. This landmark was established aside from some rock salt, while the cit- in 1934, originally for farmers to sell their rus-spritzed chicken arrives with a halo produce. It quickly morphed into a dining of garlic aroma. hall where immigrant families set up stalls “The Farmers Market has always been – many of which are now run by fourth or a rich area for food, eclectic shops and fi fth generations. amazing stories of entrepreneurship,” In the retro alfresco space, you can dine says Scalia, who rattles off each vendor’s on Italian pasta at Buca di Beppo, snap up name and backstory with ease. “You can English toffees from Littlejohn’s or linger get something from just about every con- over churrasco – Brazilian grilled meats – tinent here.” at the acclaimed Pampas Grill. The owner We don’t have time to linger so I make of Pampas, Francisco Carvalho, emigrated a mental note to come back. The clock’s from southeastern Brazil and wanted to ticking and we rush toward our next meal.
׀This page, top to ᒫӣ㮆ੜ䦒 樌愊牧֦ݢ犥ࣁ%XFDGL य़ᰁ굉ꖿ牐̿蜦ॢ૱ᵞݻ㬵 bottom The Original ꦨ牏ࣁ 䛑掘聅觬牧ମ岒犋Ӟ໒牧ڥFarmers Market has Ո㬵Ոஃԏ樌य़珷૬ᥜ籞篙 %HSSRՁአय़ been around since /LWWOHMRKQŇV搳揮舣ୗ瞫胅ᔥ牧 疻匍Ӟ㮆݈Ӟ㮆涠Ո獺䮣硲 Brazilian ౯㮉櫝樄ԧ覮㾴उ牧ஃᥜᶎ ݈ᘏࣁ㯪ݑവጱ3DPSDV Ԫ牐̀6FDOLD抋牐ྯӞ֖ମԆ ;1934 grilled meats at ጱ蜦ॢ૱ᵞ蝱咳牧眤ݑ璱圸扗 *ULOOߝ瑛૬ᥜ籞篙牐3DPSDVጱ ጱݷਁꖤጱ硲Ԫ牧甇᮷ই Pampas Grill 磧ݘጱ聅觬公讨穢瑻牐蝡 ମԆ)UDQFLVFR&DUYDOKRኧ૬ 괚疑ቊ牐̿蝡愊襇ᵞ獊ꕟݱय़૱ Opposite page 㮆瑿䰤ว讨ꔣ ଙ獺ୌ牧 ᥜ䩚ܖ蟂ᑏ࿆ᛗ၎繮牧괤磭 窓ጱᔜ꘧牐̀犋螂牧ኧꔣ䦒樌 ՁٌྮꗖጱḒ聅 ํ褖牧౯㮉๚ꖥԋኸ牧ಅ犥౯ړ蜦ॢࠓ搚蜦叨ߝ牧֕盄盠 ꖮਮՈ׀Sharing platters at 㬵 Messob; Getahun ړᑏ࿆疑ସ樄戔䣣䲆 觬牐癨ࣳ篙݉Ӥጱय़璸૬ᥜᇍ 懯㴟㬵෭ٚଶ我牐䦒樌Ӟ׀Asfaw, owner of 蝱麁౮ Ӟꕾ瑿螂݄牧౯㮉ᥝ摸ஃӥӞ ےݝꔼړMessob ጱय़ࣳ觬璤牧吚Ӿ犋靦䣣䲆匍 ᙂ籞ᛗӣ౮ᆧ牧य़蟂 牐篙 ᒊߝ瑛聅觬ԧ牐ݚӞ圵犋ݶጱޱ挨ܻܻכ牧ޱ૪ኧ疑碢ᒫࢥᛗᒫԲդ౮㹓妿 ટ烡ꗙ 笕괕ݘᜋጱ䜛क़绚 櫚ᙂꕊӤ䲥秶牧ӤᏮ䦒֎犥 芸羬݈괡ฎ綍ޫ牫ش籧牐ꔣ
38 DECEMBER 2018
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ՁړӤᛗӥ物0HVVREጱ ୗ㬫練牪扗訇皣ମԆ *HWDKXQ$VIDZ
䌘殷Ӥᛗӥ物稲ݥ霒ԋጱ 蜦ॢ૱ᵞত獺ᛔ ଙ牪 3DPSDV*ULOOጱ૬ᥜ篙ᙂ
“It was my dream to move to the US, for freedom of speech, freedom of choice”
HOUR 5 ᑏ࿆聅㾴ฎ౯ጱ瓵మ牧ࢩ Zipping across 傶蝡愊ํ抷ꗷ䢔ᛔኧ town for Ethiopian
To really get a sense of the city, we’ll need South Fairfax Avenue, in Central Los Ange- (a bread and tomato mix) atop a base of to drive. Heading south from the Farmers les, and suddenly the shops feature a script spongy injera bread. “You use your hands to Market, the buildings transform before my I’ve never seen before. Haigo’s favourite eat. If you use a fork, I’m gonna charge you eyes while Uber driver Haigo launches into restaurant – Messob – is straight ahead. an extra US$100,” he warns with a laugh. his own immigrant story. He fl ed Ethiopia While Getahun Asfaw, the co-owner, Before heading off, Asfaw says we must after being imprisoned for fi ghting the com- introduces the menu, he fi elds my bar- try a traditional coffee ceremony to round munist regime in the ’70s, seeking asylum rage of questions. “I moved here 22 years out the experience. “Ethiopia invented cof- fi rst in Europe before moving to California ago to join my brother who was already fee,” he says, glowing with pride. A woman to study accounting in San Francisco. After living here. It was my dream to move to appears to roast the beans tableside, fi ll- three decades working as an accountant the US, for freedom of speech, freedom ing the air with a warm, earthy aroma. She in LA, Haigo lost his job, and now drives of choice,” says Asfaw. brews the smooth coffee in a dark-wood for Uber while he fi nds his footing again. He says you won’t fi nd a wink of fusion jebena – a coffee pot with a fl ute-like neck It doesn’t seem like we have much in cuisine on his menu. It’s traditional and – and pours it into tiny cups that encour- common, but we quickly bond over food. precise, featuring homestyle sharing plat- age slow, measured sips. I sip my brew, Haigo says there’s amazing Ethiopian cui- ters packed with a rainbow of dal, curried but have my eye on the clock: there’s fi ve sine just south of the market. We turn onto potatoes, collard greens and tomato fi t-fi t hours left in our 12-hour dining marathon.
䛑㯽妞ྋਤ֯ꥇ牐֦̿ᥝ׀ᒫԲ㮆ੜ䦒 匍౯ℂ๚፡螂ጱ觓วʒ蝡愊 ݝ 穉㫎玟牐ᘒ አಋ㬵ݰ牐ইຎ֦አ݉ݰጱאӞਧฎੜ璕ल ޱ穉㫎觓א汜詊૱獉疨ತ璕ल ᴫزDLJR磧ࡅ䙄ጱ訇皣0HVVRE疰 扖牧ᮎ౯疰괡ग़硩聅+ ౯ޞ揲ࠩ牐̀犢樄ሻᒞ瑿괾ے ො牐訇皣犥夺牏翑牏焗ꔧڹᥝꗖ蛪眤ݑ蝡㮆उ૱牧疰 ࣁ 牧$VIDZ䁎೮ڹ㮉牐櫝樄訇皣 א殾犔ࣖ敋牐౯㮉ጱ8EHUݪ秚 羱ጱ墤讨翖牧դ蔭茐璕ल +DLJR牧犖䌔犢ጱᑏ࿆硲Ԫী 穉㫎ጱ㾴෪ᜋ牧珊匍㻌Ӟ ౯㮉Ӟਧᥝ手手㯽妞߅珹㰽 א牐聅ጱ犵ꖤ๙༗ꖮ ୗ牧虏꘨涢ๅ㾼笕牐̿璕लێݶ扖氂፡犲 麁ጱ諆وী螇㬵牐౯㮉ጱ 圸傶PHVVREጱ艟婻訇ໟ翖笕 穉㫎ฎ߅珹ጱ咳რ瑿牐̀犢笕 ړ܈聅觬牧ک犋ग़牧֕Ӟ藳 ಭ瓼牐+DLJR抋牧蜦ॢ૱ᵞ犥 አ訇玟牧ࢥ雍㬙笕ᆙᇆꗆ蔩 癲ᛔ虦瑿抋牐߅珹ᆛঅ牧俁 穉㫎ጱ瑿䰤牐 蝱Ӟ㮆㮆奞ੜጱಋ蕣磻ৼ愊牧א穉㫎芸 ߝ牧Օ奧璕लאӞ樌盄অጱ璕लํܖ 記牐౯㮉ࣁ၎繮Ӿஞ洦Ӥ揲 ମԆԏӞ*HWDKXQ$VIDZ抋牧 অ虏ਮՈࣁ碉㮆㰽ୗ๗樌՚奞 ේय़螇牧ᤋӤጱ珶ମ珊 芸㻌Ӥ犋괡ํ犨֜ᣟݳ芸ୗ牧 ߝ瑛牐ظ凟ဩ
DECEMBER 2018 39
HK 852 Oct -2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 39 19/11/18 5:23 PM HOUR 7 Salivating over sharing platters in Tehrangeles
As we leave Little Ethiopia and wander back into the afternoon sun, Scalia tells me about the city’s Persian community: “You haven’t experienced LA’s multicultural cuisines until you’ve been to Tehrangeles. It’s just a few blocks from the University of California, Los Angeles’ campus.” Sold on the promise of kebabs and yoghurt dips, we rush off, leaving the mini African enclave behind, and 20 minutes later, we pull up in front of a chocolate-brown building on Fairfax Avenue, in the Westwood District, that’s dressed up with a garden of succu- lents and intricate latticework. Founded by chef Hamid Mosavi more than 35 years ago, Shamshiri Grill is one of those restaurants where the décor takes a backseat so the food can shine. And shine To get a feel for Persian cuisine, we order a it does. Originally from Iran, chef Mosavi few sharing plates: lamb and chicken kebabs, moved to the US in 1976 when he was hummus, taftoon (a Persian bread), shi- just 16 to pursue an education. He took razi salad (with chopped cucumber, tomato a part-time job at his cousin’s restaurant and parsley), mast-o-musir (a yoghurt dip before striking out on his own in 1984 with with cucumber and dried mint, topped with Shamshiri Grill. walnuts and raisins) and black tea with a By 1990, Mosavi had four locations across hint of cardamom. Everything tastes fresh LA. “When I opened Westood Shamshiri and light, and is served with a warm fami- in 1984, there was only one small Persian ly-style hospitality. restaurant in the area,” says Mosavi. “Soon The more I peel back the layers of LA, the after Shamshiri, someone opened a Persian more I realise how much the city embraces market next to me, then the carpet busi- diversity. “Immigrants are the backbone of ness began to open branches in Westwood, our economy – the hotels, the restaurants, then an ice cream shop... a stream of Irani- the farms... ” says Scalia. “Multicultural- ans started to appear around Westwood.” ism is a part of the fabric of Los Angeles.”
ኧԆ 戔ူේ૱䁰牧ꕍ݈ํՈࣁᥜڹThis page A sharing ᒫ犊㮆ੜ䦒 6KDPVKLUL*ULOOꔣଙ plate at Shamshiri; 㬫練 䓻+DPLG0RVDYL獺缏牧秋䋿ጱ ๙玟樄瑿穓ମ牏襃ᔤମ牏篑篰ޱՁ险وpreparing kebabs at 굂獈ੜူේ ᜋጱ聅觬牐 ମ牏ቐ䌌ମ牏戡ಅᒵ牧犋靦նڊShamshiri 訇記愊ፐ斉茐 牐̀䷱ڊ匍䦒ጱ ๔Ո樄তࣁᴫ蜱Ӟ癲ܨේ牧ူڹ穉㫎 0RVDYLኞꔣא吚౯㮉櫝樄ੜ璕ल ଙ牧吚䦒ݝํ 傶ԧ眤ݑူේ芸ጱ瑿螇觓ఘ牧 ԏӾ牧 ն๔牧ᘒࣁط檚܌Opposite page 玟牧굂蝱 “Jungle” curry Ձ芸ୗ牐ྯړat Jitlada Scalia疰݊૱獉ጱူේᐒ 䵇ጱ犢牧ᑏ聅㾴媣ꖘ䋊 ౯㮉讨ꗷԧ皃ྃ Ӥ疑ےጱ訇皣砾犨 螇芸ୗ緡斕ፄႴꔢ牧ٚسࣁ蔭ضᗭ物̿ইຎ֦๚݄螂ੜူේ牧 䮣牐犢Ḓ 犋ޕꖥמଙ樄戔 ସୗꗖ獥ྃஇ牧ፘ ّ肬牧㬵ꔣز疰犋ᓒ꘨涢螂၎繮ጱग़ 氝牐౯᩼琲手ԧط 靦ਮՈٚӣ ԧکේ 6KDPVKLUL*ULOO牐ظ麁聅觬牐̀౯㮉ࣁ揲凟ဩ ک؊ ଙ牧0RVDYLࣁ၎繮૪䢐ํࢥ 薹၎繮ጱ皈葏牧疰᩼ԧ薹ڹय़螇ӤӞଖ珹ᜋୌꖇᇔ زମ牐犢抋物̿6KDPVKLULᶎ 蝡㮆उ૱ฎই֜䢐಼ग़ړӥ牧蛪괷ᥜ๙玟牧訇皣क़ᶎጱ 樌 ໒䪢翖笕翑ရရጱग़ᙂꔪᇔ牐 Ӯ牧ํՈࣁ౯ጱ訇皣ෟꗹ樄 麁牧ᘒ覍瞩拙槹क़牐
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ૢ霎物 -LWODGDጱ̿祜̀߅߹
䌘殷Ӥᛗӥ物 Ձୗړ6KDPVKLUL*ULOOጱ 㬫練牪扗訇皣䓻䒍ྋࣁ篙 蕣ᴨ篙ᙂԀ
Immigration HOUR 8 in LA: a timeline Cruising northeast chef Suthiporn “Tui” Sungkamee and his Then called sister Jazz Singsanong – who emigrated Los Pobladores, in 1979 from the province of Nakhon Si the city was to Thai Town for established by Thammarat, near the Malaysian border, to a group of scorching curries pursue a college education – the restaurant Mexican families. put Southern Thai food on the map in LA. ၎繮吚䦒ጱ舣 “The Thai community is a special case, -1700s ݷ圸傶̿/RV For dinner, I have my heart set on Jitlada, because they weren’t fl eeing from insur 3REODGRUHV̀牧ኧ which has been praised exhaustively by rections or rebellions,” shares Foss. “The وӞᗭूᥜ珠疑ସ ݶୌ缏牐 respected food writers like the late Jona- earliest immigrants from Thailand were than Gold. The Thai restaurant is hidden masses of students, who came to study. The annexation away in an unassuming strip mall in East They loved it here, and many stayed and of California to the US and the Hollywood’s Thai Town. Bright neon signs started businesses and restaurants.” Gold Rush would and a line out the door signal I’m in the I skip familiar staples like pad thai in see the largest right place. favour of the items on Jitlada’s submenu mass migration Southern California has the largest – the one dedicated to homestyle South- in US history. population of Thais outside of Thailand, ern specialities for those with adventur- ,癥㬫獈聅㾴肥螸 with more than 100,000 living here. As ous palates. I try tamarind snapper headے Ӥ吚瑿ጱے硰牧 1848-1855 Ⴃᰂᄤ疻樄牧藉咳 a result, there are many regional-specifi c beef tongue soup, catfi sh salad, fried morn- ”聅㾴ݥӤ憒秇磧य़ styles of Thai cuisine to discover. Jitlada ing glory and a palate-punching “jungle ጱᑏ࿆ᄤ牐 is an explosion of curios and memorabilia, curry that’s dotted with “dragon balls” – from magazine clippings to retro stickers, egg yolk-stuffed fi shballs. The fi recracker There’s an infl ux clocks, vintage lamps and framed photos hot fl avour of the curry, in particular, had of immigrants from around the from Thailand. Opened in 2006 by the late my ears ringing after just one spoonful. world after war or revolution. Ӯኴݱ瑿ྯེ妿稲 㮆ੜ䦒 क़磧ग़窊㾴Ո֘ጱ瑿ො牧Ո 㾴ᑏ࿆ฎय़瞙ኸ䋊ኞ牧犢㮉䙄ك䜗凗᯿य़ᶐԏ ᒫ 牧᮷괡ํय़瞙ᑏ
20th century ࿆竤獈၎繮ᒵ聅 ꔣ䩚麃ᶎጱ窊㾴उߝ瑛߅߹ 괚᩻螂苭牐窊㾴瑿ො芸羬ࣁ Ӥ蝡㮆瑿ො牧ಅ犥究ਧኸӥ㬵 㾴उ૱牐 蝡愊ጯꖴ硯牧ᘒ-LWODGD㳷犥 狶ኞ樄訇記牐̀౯ኼ螂窊 蟂聅觬股ݷ牧૪硲Ԇ䓻 ୗꕋမᔇᒵ詊ݷ聅觬牧ᵞӾ讨ܖԧภ訇䦒ྦྷ牧౯ஞፓӾ૪ 窊㾴ک 48% of LA 森ਧԧ-LWODGD牐蝡樌窊㾴訇皣 6XWKLSRUQʼn7XLŊ6XQJNDPHH ꗷ-LWODGDጱग़ྃ窊ܖᇙᜋ疑ଉ 妿籧䮣率牧 芸牧螕ݳ玄ꔣ琲ꔢጱՈॊ物嬄ێꖮটট-D]]ݳ ێ盓ṛ磭᯿ጱ聅觬֢疑禅کidentifi es as ݑ Hispanic or ଙℂ矑蜱泷㬵ᥜ㫎ꗹ 磭ৼꥻ湂毣牏ᇍᛢ仼牏諳湂ꔶ Latino. 14% hail വ牧吚Ӿ۱ೡ૪硲ጱ ᘏꔣ ޱ၎ 牏ꕋ蝢芸牧螭ํӞྃ襖破کfrom Asia. -RQDWKDQ*ROG牐-LWODGD褲萢 हጱ窊㾴၎࣡ᑏ࿆ ၎繮Ո傶 ꔣ䩚艰磷ၚ窊㾴उӞꔧٌᨩ犋 繮牧狕ꗜय़䋊抓纷牐̿窊㾴ᐒ 菠ጱ̿祜̀߅߹牧愊ᶎጱ ӟӟ聅窓ᥜ紑
犝ጱ襠ᡭ籗 ᗭጱఘ丆穉斃ᇙྛ牧ࢩ傶犢㮉 ̿熫ቐٌ̀䋿ฎᢓ焗衅湂犒牐طPresent-day 䟴ጱ珶ମᤋ牧 粤蕏牧ݚํ傶 ꙃମᶎጱਁݙ牧氥ᐏ౯૪㬵 㪔覍ࢩ傶㵕㫂ಯ凗ᘒ蝓櫝疑 ߅߹琙ᬘ篷穉牧౯ݝ犋螂亮瑛 挻ط㫎窓蕏牧圵碢 肊࡞࡞֢段牐ک๗ጱ窊 Ӟݗ牧૪眤ڡ癥ฎ窊㾴犥 瑼牐̀)RVV抋牐̿磧ےܖྋ嘦瑿ො牐ک 麁牐ز覍ଉग़
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“Embracing someone’s food traditions is an acceptance of their culture”
䢐಼獨Ոጱ聅觬㯽妞牧疰ᒵই矑 羳獨Ոጱ麁
Helmed by Alain Ducasse-trained Wesley Avila, a second-generation Mexican-Amer- ican, Guerrilla Tacos started six years ago as a food truck with a US$167 investment. Cruising from one success to the next, he fi nally opened a brick-and-mortar loca- HOUR 11 tion this summer. At this new open-air spot, Avila brings together a world of infl uences: there’s Jap- Winding down anese signage on the wall, as well as char siu tacos and lamb kebabs on the menu. with boundary- On the Beef Chile Colorado taco, you can add foie gras to the hearty combination of blurring tacos sliced hanger steak, a drizzle of chile de arbol sauce, pumpkin seeds and chives. This is LA in a taco shell: a melting pot With my mouth burning and tummy of cultures that celebrates diversity, and bursting, it seems implausible I can an entrepreneurial spirit. push through with one more stop… “Over the past 25 years, LA has been then I realise I haven’t had a single taco. leading the way in simultaneously being How did I let this happen? There’s an open to fusion foods and searching out hour to spare on the challenge, so we more true expressions of traditional cul- make a beeline for the Arts District – ture,” says Foss. “Food is a tool of commu- in the southern edge of Downtown LA nication, transcending language and tone – to the most headline-grabbing taco of voice. Embracing someone’s food tra- vendor around: Guerrilla Tacos. ditions is an acceptance of their culture.”
Hong Kong Airlines fl ies to ᒫ܈Ӟ㮆ੜ䦒 'XFDVVHጱԆ䓻:HVOH\$YLOD ಅࣁ物Ӟ㮆统Ꮘኴ褖ጱय़簴 Los Angeles daily. For 牏玄ꔣ䋿涢زԆቘ牧犢ฎᒫԫդूᥜ珠蕏聅 粆牧稧毂麁ग़ ܫmore information, visit ᩼麁ጱूᥜ珠ሳᔂ 牧*XHULOOD ጱꔍଶ牧犥݊篷综篷哴ጱ獺䮣ڹଙمhongkongairlines.com 㾴Ո牐 ړጱ괿ᰂ牧ኧ ᔜᐟ牐)RVV蔭ᐏ物̿螂݄ࢥزӞ檋 7DFRV䚣萞聅ک౯ጱᛢ毣肾ৼ螭眤 굉膠绚ྯ෭璂戔ํ膠紑ஃ㬵굉 ӞӮ夵犥㬵牧၎繮Ӟꕭ䌘ᣟ ۑꖮ၎繮牐礚褂ๅग़懱௳牧抬倵薩 箢公牧犋螂౯统ꕍమ蚏牧ܻ㬵 聅觬敋狶蚏牧矑蝫玲괔౮ 犖๚ 牧奰ꔣࣁ犡ॕ樄戔訇皣牐ࣁ ාቘ೮樄硯ꔍଶ牧ݶ䦒疨ꔴܫKRQJNRQJDLUOLQHVFRP ᛔ૩蝫Ӟկूᥜ珠ሳᔂ ݰ螂牐磧౯㮉螭ํӞ㮆ੜ 蝡樌襷ॠ訇皣愊牧$YLODᵞݳӮ 疻匍㯽妞麁ጱๅ֯ꗯ䕩牐觬 ᔰ物℃Ӥ觽犥෭ ᇔฎ禅ٌ᯿ᥝጱԻꔷૡٍ牧ࢩز窂ጱ ኴݱ瑿ጱܖ䦒牧ಅ犥疰ꕭॷӥउ玟 傶ਙ᩻᩼ԧ承犋ݶݗᶪጱ ܫ䛑݉籞ሳᔂ׀ஃ玟獉磧ݑဳፓጱ ਁ꘨牧ମ獉㳷ڹꗆ蔩玟牧 ሳᔂܫମ*XHUULOOD7DFRV牐 Ӿ䩚ᗤᙂԀ牐Ӟկੜੜጱሳ ኴ褖牐䢐಼獨Ոጱ聅觬㯽妞牧 ၎繮ጱᔜ꘧ 疰ᒵই矑羳獨Ոጱ麁牐̀ڊ牧疰珊匍ܫݷ䓻$ODLQ ᔂێ扗ମኧ괟妿硳
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(Oaxaca green chillies with chicken) and An at-a-glance look at Tlayuda choriqueso (a tortilla topped with Los Angeles’ top places to eat, pork rind paste, visit and rest your head Oaxacan cheese and chorizo). ܖਾጱᔜ墋瞲֘ط၎繮公槹聅蟸֯ꥇꖮ薪 Guelaguetza Restaurante Studio, the Art Deco 疑ସୗ絮ߢܜ訇皣 façade feels like it’s *XHODJXHW]D been imported from 5HVWDXUDQWHԆ簔籹 牧芸ୗ۱ೡޱthe 1920s. Don’t miss 策ᮟ觓 the cold brews and &KLOHV5HOOHQRVҁ絮ߢ kombuchas on tap at ܜ翑ᬘ༜櫚ᙂ҂ Fairgrounds Coffee & 7OD\XGD&KRULTXHVR Tea café, along with a ҁूᥜ珠ሳᔂ菥訁Ӥ桅 Shamshiri Grill 芸ꥇᘒ㯪ݑ蝍ച牐ٌ加 new rooftop pool. 笕掮ရꗿ牏絮ߢܜ臨ॊ 6KDPVKLUL*ULOOฎ玟獉 ᇙጱूᥜ珠ሳᔂܫ蟴ා ᥜ紑粤굉脿҂牐 Ḓ瞙ူේ訇皣ԏӞ牧扗 ۱ೡ綛萈牏݉籞謋湂 ;W Olympic 玟匍ݷ傶̿ੜူේ̀牧 ᒵ牐2000 E 7th St 3014 癥 guerrillatacos.comےBlvd; ilovemole.com ֖ꔣᥜ๙玟牧ꗼ蜱 牐ꙃ໊ړय़䋊၎繮 Stay ֘ਾ Messob 芸ୗ۱ೡԥ蠈ဟꗿ牏ᛔ Visit ว讨 Ace Hotel Founded in 1985 in 疑蕣篙訁箺箛篙ᙂԀ OUE Skyspace LA Housed in the former the heart of Little ᒵ牐1712 Westwood To get your bearings, United Artists Building Ethiopia, Messob Blvd; shamshiri.com head up to the 69th in the Broadway offers an experiential fl oor of OUE Skyspace Theater District, the tour through the East Jitlada LA. Home to Ace Hotel Downtown African nation. Almost A Thai Town institution California’s tallest Los Angeles features every detail has been that serves up palate- open-air observation striking architecture, The Mayfair imported, from the scorching curries from terraces, the building an industrial-chic 7KH0D\IDLU蟸ମ֖ꔣ၎ chairs to the coffee Southern Thailand is a hive of interactive décor and artsy 繮૱玟犥ᥜ牧㴄ਠ౮ cups, and the menu alongside more easy- artwork and activities, atmosphere. ᘉꔢૡ纷ꔣ犡ଙॕ疄 stays true to tradition. to-digest staples. murals and a 樄䮣牐蟸ମኧ၎繮 13m-long glass Ace Hotel *XOOD-¶QVG¶WWLUୌꖇ戔 Messob Jitlada Skyslide that zips ଙ樄䮣ጱ0HVVRE 蝡樌֖ꔣ窊㾴उጱ訇 daredevils around the FH+RWHO'RZQWRZQ 懯Ԫ率ಅ戔懯牧ٌ၇ფ$ 菠ጱ窊 outside of the buildingޱ穉㫎玟ጱ 皣牧珊糽襖破אRV$QJHOHV蟸ମଷ苽 蕕觽ꗆ蔩觓໒ጱक़ᨩ牧 ֖ꔣੜ璕ल/ 蟂߅߹牧犥݊Ӟ羬 from the 70th toܖׯꔷᛗӤӮ夵 ໐ஞ牧癲覿ਮՈ疻樄蝡 㾴ط蛪傶 糠ই䦒ڹጯꖜ㶓玀ᴺ玟牧 .य़唰麁ጱ詊ݷ窊 69th fl oorޱݗڜ 我 㮆䩚覍㾴疑ጱ聅觬꘨涢ک肥聅य़䓯牧䢐ํ喠ፓୌ ଙդ牐獨梊螂 ꖇૡ䮣觓໒䦒蕕 )DLUJURXQGV&RƈHH ԏ碟牐訇皣獉ጱ訇༗犥 ୗ聅觬牐5233 W 奞 Sunset Blvd; OUE Skyspace LAړ7HD߅珹皣ߝ瑛獖ု߅ ᛗ߅珹磻ᒵय़蟂 鹫牧၇ფꗆ蔩䶷௳牐 穉㫎蝱 jitladala.com 薪วଘݣאࡅ稭聅觬牏櫚ੲ蟸 珹皐ฦꖵ牧݊ꔣ(YH ℄牧璂ኧ璕लֵ֦ ᶪ䰐ጱ扖牧蝡愊ฎ $PHULFDQ%LVWUR0%DU ݗ牧芸ୗ哴氥㯽妞瑿螇 28(6N\VSDFH/$֖ꔣ 牐1041 S Fairfax Guerrilla Tacos 聅㾴肥螸补ᤈय़䓯ޱጱӥ陴Ḓꗷ牐929 S Ձݑग़᯿眤ਥ訇觶꘨涢 觓֦ 癥磧ṛጱ襷ےBroadway; acehotel. 㪔Ձአ獊ꔢॠݣ်穰牐 Ave; messob.com Chef Wes Avila has 괣牧傶獊 com/losangeles 1256 W 7th St; gained a following for ॠ薪วଘݣ牧戔ํӞ羬 㵕ꗆ蔩ߝၚ㵕牏ڜ mayfairla.com Shamshiri Grill his unique version of The Mayfair Shamshiri Grill is one Mexican-American ॅ向牧犥݊Ӟ螇䜗我 On the western edge Eat 訇觶 of the fi rst Persian cuisine – think ਮ腭ᰁጱ珋裾ॠ绚ቄ of Downtown LA, The Guelaguetza restaurants to open in gourmet tacos topped ቼꕁༀʒݷ傶 Mayfair opened this Restaurante the area now known as with everything from ̿6N\VOLGH̀ጱ蝚กꕁ summer following an This family-run Tehrangeles. sweet potato to char ༀ戔ꖙꔣय़䓯क़蟂牧 ambitious restoration Oaxacan Signatures include siu and Baja cod. ᩼ 괣ᛗ괣牐ྌक़牧 牧虏މproject. Designed by establishment dishes yoghurt dips, 薪วݣ阑戔ํ蟸 LA-based Gulla up smoky, savoury homemade fl atbreads Guerrilla Tacos ֦Ӟꗹߝ瑛聅蟸牧Ӟꗹ Jónsdóttir fl avours in dishes such and charcoal-grilled Ԇ䓻:HVOH\$YLOD䚣茐 ོ搕ॗ檚聅ว牐
Architecture & Design as chiles rellenos kebabs. 加䰽Ӟ癹ጱूᥜ珠聅ୗ oue-skyspace.com HOTEL) (ACE SPENCER LOWELL IMAGES:
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