Moveable Feasts 12 Hours, Four Wheels, One Hungry Writer: a Quest to Devour Los Angeles’ Smorgasbord of Global fl Avours 聅ޱ碟纷य़䜗物洠敋蝿၎繮牧 ෭瑛哴吚瑿䛑ํ哴ํጱ獊ꖒ֯訐 DECEMBER 2018
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CONNECT TO THE BEST OF HONG KONG AND BEYOND DECEMBER 2018 • ISSUE 1 THE INFLIGHT MAGAZINE OF HONGKONG AIRLINES HONGKONG OF MAGAZINE INFLIGHT THE 診ݰ犋؊ Moveable feasts 12 hours, four wheels, one hungry writer: a quest to devour Los Angeles’ smorgasbord of global fl avours 聅ޱ碟纷य़䜗物洠敋蝿၎繮牧 ෭瑛哴吚瑿䛑ํ哴ํጱ獊ꖒ֯訐 DECEMBER 2018 DECEMBER 852 Cover.DL.PZ.MS_TP.indd 1 16/11/18 12:49 PM ꗹ Eat your ᤈ How many cuisines can you try in the City of Angels in 12 hours? If you’re Kate Springer, quite a few… ꗹ way ݰ 皈ݢ犥ߝ瑛吚瑿ग़靦圵کࣁ̿ॠֵԏउ̀၎繮牧㮆ੜ䦒獉 犋ݶ芸羬ޫ牫Kate Springer咳匍物ܻ㬵傶괚犋靦ŏŏ ၎ through 繮 Photos by Marianna Jamadi Los Angeles HK 852 Dec-2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 34 19/11/18 5:22 PM HK 852 Oct -2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 35 19/11/18 5:22 PM tepping out onto West Olym- chef Roy Choi. “If you went to other cities pic Boulevard, west of down- in the interior of America and you weren’t town Los Angeles, the fi rst a fl uent English speaker, you might stand S thing I notice about Gue- out. But in Los Angeles, you could more laguetza Restaurante – an Oaxacan res- easily fi nd your community. Plus, every- taurant located in Koreatown – is its cit- one loves the weather.” rus-hued façade. There are murals on all It’s easy to see the appeal. During my sides, one of which depicts a smiling boy time in LA, the temperature hovers around wearing a sombrero and holding a rooster 22°C, with an intermittent breeze and a under the shade of the building’s eaved roof. soft kiss of sunlight. It couldn’t be prettier. In any other city, a Mexican restaurant Weather, education, safety, free speech... might seem out of place in Koreatown, but these are just a few of the reasons LA appeals I’m in LA, where the city of 10 million is to immigrants. home to people from more than 140 coun- Which bring us back to Guelaguetza. tries speaking over 220 languages. Besides I’m in LA on a mission to sample as many Mexican, there are also Chinese, Japanese international cuisines as possible in a day and various other Korean fusion cuisines – 12 hours, to be exact. The task is daunt- along the street I’m on. ing so rather than go at it alone, I enlist the “Historically, we’ve been a relatively wel- help of Lisa Scalia, co-founder of Melting coming place for immigration,” says Richard Pot Food Tours. With 10 years of leading Foss, a food writer, researcher and board food tours of the city under her belt, I can’t member of Culinary Historians of South- think of anyone better to join me on the ern California I meet some time later for race from one corner of LA to another to Korean-Mexican short rib burritos at Kogi sample the city’s most diverse bites. And Food Truck, founded by Korean-American the clock starts… now! 螈၎繮ӥउ玟犥ᥜ牧 ݥ㯽妞Ӥ牧౯㮉ฎӞ㮆ፘ䌘稭 ᆘ牧ॠ䶷ꕰฎঅ禅ԧ牐၎繮ک Top to bottom Guelaguetza serves ᑏ࿆Ոॊጱ㱢讨牧ᴻԧॠޕ य़螇䦒牧 蜰ꔢᑏ࿆ጱ瑿ො牐̀5LFKDUGظfood from Oaxaca, a 굂Ӥᥜ霥玚 remote region in *XHODJXHW]D5HVWDXUDQWH訇 )RVV抋牐犢ฎӞ֖聅觬֢疑ّ 䶷牏硽ᙙ牏ᐒ괡လਞ抷ᛔ 癥觶觬稲 ኧԏक़牧螭ํ战战ग़ग़牐ےܖ౯ጱ牧ฎٌລ秙ᜋ Ꮈ绗Ո㹓牧犖ฎޕضsouthwest Mexico; 皣ሲ Guelaguetza’s क़℃牐ಅํ℃ᶎ᮷괯Ӥॅ向牧 ݥ䋊疑肥괡ጱ甛㹓牐̿ইຎ֦ 蝡Ӟ獥݈䌔౯㮉癲ࢧ homely interior ၎کஃ聅㾴獉褢ٌ犢瑿ො牧ᘒ舣 *XHODJXHW]D牐౯㬵ڹ ӾӞଏ矟괯Ӟ㮆盏ᒞጱካٌ ጱ扖牧괡ࣁՈᗭӾ 繮牧ํӞ㮆盄᯿ᥝጱ犨率物疰ڥӤᛗӥ物 牧犢毣ಀूᥜ珠疝ଌ牧ࣁୌ 承犋ꔷ 牐֕ࣁ၎繮牧֦ݢ ฎࣁӞॠ獉ݰ哴㾴ꘉ聅觬ʒڊ櫚牐 ᇙ獨统لXHODJXHW]D訇皣䌕籧ू ꖇᇔጱ罍ӥ೭茐Ӟ櫇* ᛔ૩ጱ碢蕏ᐒ ๅ伛嘦㬵抋ฎੜ䦒牐౯螩抬ک癥ྋਤ ࣁٌ犢उ૱ጱ覮㾴उ樄戔ूᥜ ๅ斕ฃ瑿ತܜ蟂絮ߢܖᥜ珠ᥜ य़簴粆聅觬蝿̀ጱ肥ݳ獺̿ک 芸ୗ牪扗訇皣ጱਰ獉蕕鹫 珠訇皣牧眤憽婦괡໒໒犋獈牧 ᗭ牐ٚᘏ牧ಅํՈ᮷ࡅ䙄蝡愊 笕疑ସ伩ꘜ眤ش 氥ᘒ 旰Ո/LVD6FDOLD㷢ꖮ౯ጱᤈێ蝡愊ฎ၎繮牧૱獉苭 ጱॠ䶷牐̀蝡ොᶎጱ諆֕ ଙ砾犨૱獉ጱ܈ஃ聅罕覮蕏 纷牧甇ꔣ螂݄ڹՈݗӾ牧۱ೡԧ㬵ᛔ᩻螂 ฃ憎牐౯ꖮ)RVV 㮆㾴疑ֵአ圵承ጱ૱ Ԇ䓻5R\&KRL樄獺ጱ.RJL聅觬 聅觬㽷疩牧癲覿螂犋靦碟ਮ牐 牐ᴻԧूᥜ珠芸ԏक़牧౯蛪 敋牧ߝ瑛覮ୗ肴矎ूᥜ珠ሳᔂ ౯㮉绝ꔨ૱獉犋ݶ薫苽牧ߝ瑛࿆ ䷱麁ጱ聅ꥊ֯ꥇ牐伛㯪অز訁牧吚䦒ጱ䶷伩盈ꔣ硢࿄ ग़ܫ Ӿ㾴芸牏෭׀괷ጱᤋ螇螭 ํ牫聅觬ԏ碟匍ࣁ樄ত牦طೃ牧檚ޖ芸ग़圵覮㾴ᣟ芸ୗ牐̿稲 ଶૢݦ牧盏觓 36 DECEMBER 2018 HK 852 Dec-2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 36 19/11/18 5:22 PM LOS ANGELES ၎繮 HOUR 1 “Back in Mexico, my dad was a mezcal Oaxacan Cuisine producer. But he moved here in 1993, when in Koreatown Mexico was going through a huge economic crisis. The crisis hit us hard,” shares Bricia Lopez, one of the restaurant’s co-owners. Inside the spacious Guelaguetza, a riot of Bricia’s father, Fernando, had family liv- energy explodes from the fl oral tabletops, ing in LA, so the move made sense. When black-and-white murals and turquoise walls. he arrived, Fernando longed for Oaxacan The family-run restaurant, now in its sec- cuisine but couldn’t fi nd it anywhere, so he ond generation, specialises in authentic started selling traditional dishes door to cuisine from Oaxaca – a remote region in door. After about a year in LA, he was suc- southwest Mexico that’s known for a dis- cessful enough to open a brick-and-mor- tinct cuisine that’s unlike any Mexican you tar restaurant and move his family here, might have tried. where they found the second largest pop- Oaxacan food tends to be smoky, spicy ulation of Oaxacan people outside of Mex- and packed with local ingredients like avo- ico and sought to cultivate a meeting place cado leaves, chocolate, cloves and a chilli for the community. pepper known as pasilla you can only fi nd “From the beginning, Guelaguetza was in the region. The signature sauce – like really popular with the Oaxacan commu- sriracha in LA or XO in Hong Kong – is nity because the other types of Mexican mole, which I eat by the spoonful. Made food were nothing like what they were used with crushed nuts, sesame, bananas, gar- to,” says Bricia. “When people dine here, lic, cinnamon and chocolate, the result is we want them to feel they’re immersed a little smoky, a little spicy, a little sweet in the culture – with the music, interiors, – and altogether addictive. food and community.” ᒫӞ㮆ੜ䦒 ᜋ策ꗿ牧疰ই၎繮ଉ憎ጱฎ ጱ䦒狡牧覍ଉ䟑盢絮ߢܜ癥ጱ 牧ಅ犥ک癥芸ୗ 癩ኝᬘꗿ굉ጱ;2ꗿ牧虏 觬ᇔ牧ॱ֜ਠ獊ತ犋ܜ覮㾴उ愊ጱ絮ߢ ߝ瑛牐蝡ྃ策 犢ᛔ獺ԧ㯽妞疑暱芸क़蝑๐ۺ౯犋ꕼ೭蚏仼 狱य़ጱ*XHODJXHW]D訇皣 ꗿጱාํຎՌᏦ牏臨Ἃ牏굉 率牐ࣁ၎繮ኞၚӞଙ牧犢 樄戔ێጱኞ犖ᓒ犋梊牧ํꖥ ޱ牧ێ霎ໜໟᶎ牏ἓጮ 莹牏ꖿ毣牏ᙂ໗ݘ܍獉牧翖犥ꖴ 向萠翑ᜋ℃蛪牧筕咳Ӟ胂 螇ݶ䦒癲ํ簔籹牏굉ᬘኝ聅 訇皣㪔ኩ抬疑Ո螂㬵ਧ牧ୌॅ ܜ憽牧犤ՈӞݰӤ緝牐̿螭 缏蚏ूᥜ珠हक़ᒫԫय़絮ߢޱ牐蝡樌疑ସୗ訇皣牧 ጱێᄯჍၚ 樄Ӟ㮆虏ݶ暱ێই犡ኧᒫԫդ疑碢౮㹓妿籧牧 ࣁूᥜ珠ጱ䦒狡牧౯ᇁᇁฎ 癥ᐒᗭ牧ꖬ ଙ 肞Ḓጱ瑿讨牐̿*XHODJXHW]D凟蟸ኞ叨珶牐犢ꔣܜ癥ጱྋਤ芸 ේܜ䛑絮ߢ׀䌕槹 癥Ո稭ܜ蝡愊牧吚䦒ूᥜ珠ྋ妿 Ӟ樄ত疰窼ݑ絮ߢک蟂 螠ܖ癥傶ूᥜ珠ᥜܜୗ牐絮ߢ 秚牧䌘౯㮉ꗰ౮盄य़ 蜰牧ࢩ傶ٌ犢圵气ጱूᥜ珠觬ܧӞ㮆؇螐瑿玟牧ٌᇙᜋ芸ꖮ౯ 稲妿ꕆ 螇ਠ獊犋ޱጱूᥜ珠芸౼ꕍ ጱ䢗牐̀訇皣䩚ԆԏӞ ߝꖮ犢㮉ᆧ盿ጱک㮉ଘ䦒ߝ瑛 癥芸؇ݻ簔籹굉 %ULFLD/RSH]抋牐%ULFLDጱᆿꗖ ݶ牐̀%ULFLDꖘ螇牐̿౯㮉ܜ犋ݶ牐絮ߢ ጱܜ牧ଉଉ䟖አᇍရຎꖼ牏 )HUQDQGRํꗖ֘ࣁ၎繮牧 磭ਮՈਠ獊ဃ蠜ꔣ絮ߢޱᬘ觓 扗૱犖ฎݳቘ犋螂 麁ԏӾ牧꘨涢加ᇙጱᶪ䰐牏蕕ک牏ӟ굉吚瑿加ํጱᬘ 硲ྌᑏ࿆ێݘ ၎繮 鹫牏聅觬ᐒᗭ㵕牐̀ک༜ᒵ觬獈ꥇ牐ݷ傶PROHጱᇙ ጱ究ਧ牐)HUQDQGR㬵 DECEMBER 2018 37 HK 852 Oct -2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 37 19/11/18 5:23 PM HOUR 3 Elbowing through crowds for Brazilian churrasco From Koreatown, we race west to the share his mother’s recipes. Grilled on enor- Original Farmers Market to get a feel for mous spits, the medium-rare chunks of what’s arguably the city’s original foodie Brazilian beef are mostly unadulterated, hotspot. This landmark was established aside from some rock salt, while the cit- in 1934, originally for farmers to sell their rus-spritzed chicken arrives with a halo produce. It quickly morphed into a dining of garlic aroma. hall where immigrant families set up stalls “The Farmers Market has always been – many of which are now run by fourth or a rich area for food, eclectic shops and fi fth generations. amazing stories of entrepreneurship,” In the retro alfresco space, you can dine says Scalia, who rattles off each vendor’s on Italian pasta at Buca di Beppo, snap up name and backstory with ease. “You can English toffees from Littlejohn’s or linger get something from just about every con- over churrasco – Brazilian grilled meats – tinent here.” at the acclaimed Pampas Grill. The owner We don’t have time to linger so I make of Pampas, Francisco Carvalho, emigrated a mental note to come back. The clock’s from southeastern Brazil and wanted to ticking and we rush toward our next meal. ׀This page, top to ᒫӣ㮆ੜ䦒 樌愊牧֦ݢ犥ࣁ%XFDGL य़ᰁ굉ꖿ牐̿蜦ॢ૱ᵞݻ㬵 bottom The Original ꦨ牏ࣁ 䛑掘聅觬牧ମ岒犋Ӟ໒牧ڥFarmers Market has Ո㬵Ոஃԏ樌य़珷૬ᥜ籞篙 %HSSRՁአय़ been around since /LWWOHMRKQŇV搳揮舣ୗ瞫胅ᔥ牧 疻匍Ӟ㮆݈Ӟ㮆涠Ո獺䮣硲 Brazilian ౯㮉櫝樄ԧ覮㾴उ牧ஃᥜᶎ ݈ᘏࣁ㯪ݑവጱ3DPSDV Ԫ牐̀6FDOLD抋牐ྯӞ֖ମԆ ;1934 grilled meats at ጱ蜦ॢ૱ᵞ蝱咳牧眤ݑ璱圸扗 *ULOOߝ瑛૬ᥜ籞篙牐3DPSDVጱ ጱݷਁꖤጱ硲Ԫ牧甇᮷ই Pampas Grill 磧ݘጱ聅觬公讨穢瑻牐蝡 ମԆ)UDQFLVFR&DUYDOKRኧ૬ 괚疑ቊ牐̿蝡愊襇ᵞ獊ꕟݱय़૱ Opposite page 㮆瑿䰤ว讨ꔣଙ獺ୌ牧 ᥜ䩚ܖ蟂ᑏ࿆ᛗ၎繮牧괤磭 窓ጱᔜ꘧牐̀犋螂牧ኧꔣ䦒樌 ՁٌྮꗖጱḒ聅 ํ褖牧౯㮉๚ꖥԋኸ牧ಅ犥౯ړ蜦ॢࠓ搚蜦叨ߝ牧֕盄盠 ꖮਮՈ׀Sharing platters at 㬵 Messob; Getahun ړᑏ࿆疑ସ樄戔䣣䲆 觬牐癨ࣳ篙݉Ӥጱय़璸૬ᥜᇍ 懯㴟㬵෭ٚଶ我牐䦒樌Ӟ׀Asfaw, owner of 蝱麁౮ Ӟꕾ瑿螂݄牧౯㮉ᥝ摸ஃӥӞ ےݝꔼړMessob ጱय़ࣳ觬璤牧吚Ӿ犋靦䣣䲆匍 ᙂ籞ᛗӣ౮ᆧ牧य़蟂 牐篙 ᒊߝ瑛聅觬ԧ牐ݚӞ圵犋ݶጱޱ挨ܻܻכ牧ޱ૪ኧ疑碢ᒫࢥᛗᒫԲդ౮㹓妿 ટ烡ꗙ 笕괕ݘᜋጱ䜛क़绚 櫚ᙂꕊӤ䲥秶牧ӤᏮ䦒֎犥 芸羬݈괡ฎ綍ޫ牫ش籧牐ꔣ 38 DECEMBER 2018 HK 852 Dec-2018 034-044_Feature Los Angeles Food Challenge.JS.DL.PZ.MS.RESEND.indd 38 19/11/18 5:23 PM LOS ANGELES ၎繮 ՁړӤᛗӥ物0HVVREጱ ୗ㬫練牪扗訇皣ମԆ *HWDKXQ$VIDZ 䌘殷Ӥᛗӥ物稲ݥ霒ԋጱ 蜦ॢ૱ᵞত獺ᛔଙ牪 3DPSDV*ULOOጱ૬ᥜ篙ᙂ “It was my dream to move to the US, for freedom of speech, freedom of choice” HOUR 5 ᑏ࿆聅㾴ฎ౯ጱ瓵మ牧ࢩ Zipping across 傶蝡愊ํ抷ꗷ䢔ᛔኧ town for Ethiopian To really get a sense of the city, we’ll need South Fairfax Avenue, in Central Los Ange- (a bread and tomato mix) atop a base of to drive. Heading south from the Farmers les, and suddenly the shops feature a script spongy injera bread. “You use your hands to Market, the buildings transform before my I’ve never seen before. Haigo’s favourite eat. If you use a fork, I’m gonna charge you eyes while Uber driver Haigo launches into restaurant – Messob – is straight ahead. an extra US$100,” he warns with a laugh. his own immigrant story. He fl ed Ethiopia While Getahun Asfaw, the co-owner, Before heading off, Asfaw says we must after being imprisoned for fi ghting the com- introduces the menu, he fi elds my bar- try a traditional coffee ceremony to round munist regime in the ’70s, seeking asylum rage of questions.