Scotland's Highlands 2

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Why Go? Inverness...... 149 From the rugged, rockyy crags of Glen Coe to the shapely, Around Inverness ...... 156 pointed peaks of Knoydart, Glenelg and Kintail, the moun West of Inverness ...... 158 tain ranges of the Great Glen and Lochaber are testimony to Loch Ness ...... 159 the sculpting power of ice and weather. Here the Highland landscape is at its grandest, with soaring hills of rock and The Road to Skye...... 162 heather bounded by wooded glens and rushing waterfalls. Fort William ...... 165 Not surprisingly, this part of the country is an adven Around Fort William ...... 169 ture playground for outdoor sports enthusiasts. Glen Coe Glen Nevis ...... 169 and Nevis Range draw hordes of hill walkers, climbers and Nevis Range ...... 170 mountain bikers in summer, and skiers, snowboarders and Glen Coe ...... 171 ice climbers in winter. Inverness, the Highland capital, pro Lochaber ...... 174 vides urban rest and relaxation, while nearby Loch Ness and Road to the Isles ...... 176 its elusive monster add a hint of mystery. From Fort William, base camp for climbing Ben Nevis, Glenﬁ nnan ...... 176 the Road to the Isles leads past the gorgeous beaches along Knoydart Peninsula ...... 179 the coast from Arisaig to Morar and to Mallaig, jumping-oﬀ Walking in the Great point for the islands of Skye, Eigg and Rum. Glen & Lochaber ...... 180

When to Go Best Places to Eat Fort William » Lime Tree (p168 ) °C/°F Te m p Rainfall Inches/mm 40/104 10/250 » Contrast Brasserie (p 154 ) 30/86 8/200 » Lochleven Seafood Cafe (p174 ) 20/68 6/150 » Old Forge (p 179 ) 10/50 4/100 0/32 2/50 Best Places to -10/14 0 Stay JF MAMJ JASOND » Rocpool Reserve (p 153 ) Apr–May The June Fort William Sep Ideal time scenery is at its hosts the UCI for hiking and hill » Lime Tree (p 167 ) most spectacular, Mountain Bike walking – midges » Lovat Arms Hotel (p162 ) with snow linger- World Cup, pulling are dying off, but » Trafford Bank (p152 ) ing on the higher in huge crowds of weather is still peaks. spectators. reasonably good. » Ben Nevis Inn (p169 )

13-great-glen-lochaber-shi2.indd 148 7/10/2011 12:21:20 PM INVERNESS Inverness Castle CASTLE (Castle St) The hill above the city centre is 149 POP 55,000 topped by the picturesque Baronial tur Inverness, the primary city and shopping rets of Inverness Castle, a pink-sandstone centre of the Highlands, has a great location confection dating from 1847 that replaced astride the River Ness at the northern end a medieval castle blown up by the Jaco of the Great Glen. In summer it overflows bites in 1746; it serves today as the Sher with visitors intent on monster hunting at iff ’s Court. It’s not open to the public, but nearby Loch Ness, but it’s worth a visit in its there are good views from the surrounding own right for a stroll along the picturesque gardens. River Ness and a cruise on the Moray Firth in search of its famous bottlenose dolphins. T� Tours The city was probably founded by King Moray Firth Cruises WILDLIFE CRUISES David in the 12th century, but thanks to its ( %01463-717900; www.inverness-dolphin-cruises often violent history few buildings of real .co.uk; Shore St Quay; h10.30am-4.30pm Mar-Oct) age or historical signifi cance have survived. Off ers 1½-hour wildlife cruises (adult/child Much of the older part of the city dates from £14/10) to look for dolphins, seals and bird the period following the completion of the life. Sightings aren’t guaranteed, but the Caledonian Canal in 1822. The broad and commentaries are excellent, and on a fine shallow River Ness, which fl ows a short 6 day it’s good just being out on the water. miles from Loch Ness into the Moray Firth, Follow the signs to Shore St Quay from & LOCHABER GLEN GREAT THE INVERNESS runs through the heart of the city. the far end of Chapel St or catch the free shuttle bus that leaves from the tourist of 1� Sights & Activities fi ce 15 minutes before sailings (which depart Ness Islands PARK every 1½ hours). In July and August there The main attraction in Inverness is a lei are also departures at 6pm. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES surely stroll along the river to the Ness Is lands. Planted with mature Scots pine, fir, Jacobite Cruises CRUISES beech and sycamore, and linked to the river ( %01463-233999; www.jacobite.co.uk; Glenurqu banks and each other by elegant Victorian hart Rd) Cruise boats depart at 10.35am and footbridges, the islands make an appealing 1.35pm from Tomnahurich Bridge for a 3½ picnic spot. hour trip along Loch Ness, including visits They’re a 20-minute walk south of the to Urquhart Castle and Loch Ness Exhibi

castle – head upstream on either side of the tion Centre (adult/child £26/20 including SIGHTS INVERNESS & ACTIVITIES river (the start of the Great Glen Way), and admission fees). You can buy tickets at the return on the opposite bank. On the way tourist offi ce and catch a free minibus to the boat. Other cruises, from one to 6½ hours, you’ll pass the red-sandstone towers of St are also available. Andrew’s Cathedral, dating from 1869, and the modern Eden Court Theatre, which Happy Tours WALKING TOURS hosts regular art exhibits, both on the west ( www.happy-tours.biz; adult/child £10/free) Offers bank. 1¼-hour guided walks exploring the town’s history and legends. Tours begin outside the Inverness Museum & Art Gallery MUSEUM tourist offi ce at 11am, 1pm and 3pm daily. ( %01463-237114; www.inverness.highland.museum; Castle Wynd; free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Between Inverness Taxis TAXI TOURS the castle and the tourist offi ce is Inverness ( %01463-222900; www.inverness-taxis.co.uk) Museum & Art Gallery, which has wildlife Wide range of day tours to Urquhart Castle, dioramas, geological displays, period rooms Loch Ness, Culloden, and even Skye. Fares with historic weapons, Pictish stones and per car (up to four people) range from £50 contemporary Highland arts and crafts. (two hours) to £200 (all day).

Victorian Market MARKET John O’Groats Ferries BUS/FERRY TOURS If the rain comes down, you could opt for a ( %01955-611353; www.jogferry.co.uk; hdeparts spot of retail therapy in the Victorian Mar 7.30am) From May to September, daily tours ket, a shopping mall that dates from the are run (lasting 13½ hours; adult/child 1890s and has rather more charm than its £57/28.50) by bus and passenger ferry from modern equivalents. Inverness bus station to Orkney.

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