© MICK ROCK BUYING GUIDE NOVEMBER 2011 tralia holdanimpressivelibraryofbackvintages. The cellarsofPenfold’s MagillEstateinSouthAus 35 33 30 26 19 2 AUSTRALIA PORTUGAL ITALY FRANCE SOUTH AFRICA ARGENTINA 78 76 66 49 44 BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM REVIEWS, VISIT RATINGSFOR ADDITIONALAND BEER SPIRITS WASHINGTON CALIFORNIA SPAIN

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Penfolds’ Grange is arguably Australia’s most lauded wine. Yellow Tail is ar- gnon Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River; 90 points, $18) and Penfolds’ 2008 guably its most successful. One often sells for $500 or more, the other often Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (South Australia; 91 points, $36). sells for $10 or less. The 2006 Grange is reviewed this month, as is Yellow These are not cheap-and-cheerful whites or palate-staining reds, just ex- Tail’s Bubbles Sparkling Wine. In many ways, neither is truly representa- cellent wines at relatively affordable prices. tive of their genre; they inhabit vastly different habitats along the spectrum Similar values abound throughout this bountiful midsection of the of Australian wines, deflecting attention from many of the deserving wines Australian wine scene, and you’ll find dozens more inside: top-­scoring that fall somewhere in the middle class. Cabernets from Margaret River, Shiraz from Barossa and McLaren Vale, Yet it is precisely those middle-class Australian wines that deserve the even two very good sparkling wines from unexpected sources—Padtha- most attention from buyers. Some are unique regional expressions of par- way and Clare Valley. ticular grape varieties, like Clare Valley Riesling or Hunter Valley Semi- Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, we take another look at the llon. Others are classic regional blends, like Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc unending flows of wine streaming north from Argentina and South from Margaret River or Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon from South Austra- ­Africa, assorted wines from Bordeaux and Italy, fine table wines from lia. Many offer outsanding quality for the price. the Iberian Peninsula and the latest releases from California and Wash- This issue of the Buying Guide includes numerous examples of exact- ington. And if you’re thirsty for still more reviews, you can find all of our ly these sorts of wines, from Jim Barry’s 2010 The Lodge Hill Dry Ries- more than 105,000 wine ratings and reviews online and free of charge at ling (Clare Valley; 90 points, $18) and Brokenwood’s 2007 Oakey Creek buyingguide.wine.com. Semillon (Hunter Valley; 92 points, $32) to Cape Mentelle’s 2010 Sauvi- Cheers! —Joe Czerwinski

AUSTRALIAN WHITES SEMILLON WHITE BLENDS RIESLING Brokenwood 2007 Oakey Creek Semillon Cullen 2009 Ephraim Clarke Sauvignon 92 (Hunter Valley). For full review see page 5. 91 Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River). This Jim Barry 2010 The Lodge Hill Dry Ries- wine seems a bit sweaty at first, but with a little aeration 90 ling (Clare Valley). Quintessential young Brokenwood 2006 ILR Reserve Vineyard it becomes more toasty and citrusy. Hints of honey and Clare Riesling, with lime sherbet aromas and flavors 90 Selection Semillon (Hunter Valley). For tangerine mark the palate, but with its modest alcohol and a delicate thread of talclike minerality running full review see page 7. and crisp acidity, it never seems heavy at all. Try as an through it. It’s light to medium in body, very clean, fresh apéritif or with seafood. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. and zesty on the finish. Drink now, or hold 5-7 years to Keith Tulloch 2007 Semillon (Hunter Val- abv: 11.5% Price: $35 allow a more evolved, toasty character to emerge. Ne- 89 ley). A typical expression of Hunter Valley gociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Semillon, with modest alcohol and crisp acids. Struck Cape Mentelle 2010 Sauvignon Blanc- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 flint and lime custard mark the nose, while the flavors 90 Semillon (Margaret River). Mouthfilling suggest the dust of crushed stones and citrus. Drink and round, filled with ripe pineapple and passion fruit Pewsey Vale 2010 Individual Vineyard now–2017. USA Wine Imports. —J.C. flavors. There are some sweaty and mealy notes bal- 90 Selection Dry Riesling (Eden Valley). abv: 11% Price: $NA anced by hints of stone fruit, which all act to build com- Hints at honey, apple and citrus on the nose, then deliv- plexity and interest. Potent and long on the finish. Drink ers all of those notes minus the implied sweetness and Margan 2009 Semillon (Hunter Valley). now. Moët Hennessy USA. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. coupled with high acid levels. Although this is in a nice 88 With a flinty edge to its lemon-lime aromas abv: 13% Price: $18 place now as an apéritif or with oysters, it should hold and an indescribable stone-dust component to its fla- nicely for at least 5–7 years, adding richness and versa- vors, this is an intriguing medium-bodied Semillon that Hungerford Hill 2010 Fishcage Semillon- tility as it ages. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. finishes with laser-like precision. Drink now–2020, by 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Hunter Valley). Most —J.C. which time it will have developed honey and toast char- Hunter Valley Semillons are unblended, but this one abv: 12.5% Price: $17 acters. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. adds Sauvignon Blanc for increased aromatics. It’s lem- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 ony and fresh, with some leafy notes on the nose, then Frisk 2010 Prickly Riesling (Victoria). For crisp and citrusy without being severe on the palate. 86 full review see page 13. Brokenwood 2010 Semillon (Hunter Val- The mouthwatering finish lingers nicely. Hunter Valley 87 ley). Brokenwood’s entry-level Semillon is al- Fine Wines, Inc. —J.C. Wakefield Estate 2010 Riesling (Clare ways a reliable introduction to the Hunter Valley style. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 86 Valley). Light and crisp, with a perfumed bou- Crisp, zingy citrus fruit and light body make it a fine quet of baby powder and lime blossom. Simple green accompaniment to raw oysters or other shellfish when James Oatley 2009 Tic Tok Sauvignon apple and lime flavors carry a tart edge through the fin- young. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 87 Blanc-Semillon (Western Australia). This ish. American Wine Distributors. —J.C. abv: 12% Price: $20 is a plump, slightly creamy-textured blend of approxi- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 mately 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon. Lime, melon and white pepper notes mark the nose and pal-

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Cayuse 2008 Bionic Frog Syrah (Wal- Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Franc (Napa Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul la Walla Valley). Initially a rather subdued Valley). A rare Cabernet Franc from Merry- Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Reviewer Virginie Boone 100 95 in Santa Rosa. Frog; as if it has been tamed down. Then, suddenly, vale, and a spectacular one. They’ve handled this finicky If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s There’s a plush core of blackberry fruit, and the classic variety just right, although surely the addition of some initials appear following the note. When no initials appear Cayuse funkiness is there, drenched in liquid rocks and Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec adds weight and tone. following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or cured meat and drying tannins. It’s all in proportion and The wine is dry, richly tannic and enormously flavorful, more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are a fine reflection of the steely vintage. As it opens grace- offering waves of cherries, red currants, red licorice, by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. fully you discover that it is a stunningly refined Frog, cola, sweet cedar wood and even savory hints of bacon. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, quite possibly the best ever; powerful and distinctive, A tremendous Cabernet Franc that will stand as a de- its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by but also elegant, feminine. —P.G. finitive version in California. —S.H. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.4% Price: $80 abv: 14.9% Price: $90 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Moone-Tsai 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Merryvale 2008 Profile (Napa Valley).A 95 (Napa Valley). One sip is all it takes to fall in Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. 97 tremendous wine that shows how Merryvale is love with this Cabernet, which contains a little Merlot. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- absolutely at the top of its game. Impeccable in struc- It’s rich and lush and authoritative on every level. The critical circumstances. ture, with refined tannins that are soft and firm at the texture is soft as velvet, but the tannins are firm, back- Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 same time, and a fine cut of acidity. Entirely dry, the ing up blackberry, cherry, chocolate, cassis, mineral and points) are not reviewed. Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend is awesome in black- new oak flavors that are complex and linger long into SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS berry, cherry, cassis and oak flavors, with complexities of the spicy finish. Such are the tannins that the wine is Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent anise, soy sauce, grilled meats and minerals. Beyond the likely to age well through 2016, at least. Cellar Selec- quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. particulars, it just feels dramatic and rich in the mouth. tion. —S.H. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible A great wine that should develop in the bottle over the abv: 14.1% Price: $75 and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but abv: 14.9% Price: $165 that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae Vineyard 7&8 2008 Es- for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are tate Cabernet Sauvignon generally priced at $15 or less. 96 (Spring Mountain). It’s hard to SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW exaggerate the purity of this wine, Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. which is 100% Cabernet. It startles com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting for the intensity of mountain black- & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting berries and raspberries, and then a products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted firm minerality kicks in, along with for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted the tannins, providing grounding will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission structure. The finish lasts for a full Aveleda 2004 Grande Follies Vinhas da forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. minute. Winemaker Luc Morlet has 94 Quinta da Agueira (Beiras). A superb, con- LABELS really hit the jackpot with this dry, centrated wine, powered by ripe fruits that are now Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given spectacularly complex young wine, reaching their peak. The wine has a dense texture, with the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and which will develop for at least a de- rich berry and sweet plum fruits, bitter chocolate and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax cade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. solid, dark tannins. Age for 5–6 years. FJN Fine Wines 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. abv: 14.8% Price: $125 LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 14.5% Price: $50 buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 3 D.R. Stephens 2008 Walther River Block L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The 94 (Walla Walla Valley). Fragrant with smoky 93 (Napa Valley). Another great success from estate vineyard is on the east side of Rutherford, on red fruits, this tight, young, pure Cabernet Sauvignon Merryvale. Somehow they manage to make red wines Howell Mountain Road, up into the Vaca Mountains. brings a generous mix of raspberry, pomegranate and that are ripe, oaky and opulent, yet maintain balance This is prime Cabernet territory, and the wine is 100% cherry fruit into play. The firm and supple tannins are so that you can drink it over the course of a meal with- varietal. It’s very rich and dry in blackberries, with a folded in seamlessly, with hints of iron, coffee and choc- out the flavors palling. Dry and tannicly sophisticated, firmly tannic astringency and a fine coating of oak. olate. Cellar Selection. —P.G. it shows complex waves of blackberries, cassis, cherries Needs time to come around. Give it at least six years, abv: 14.5% Price: $37 and sweet, smoky cedar. —S.H. possibly far longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.6% Price: $105

Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. De Bortoli 2007 Noble One Bortytis Semi- 93 Helena). This is a big, ageworthy Cabernet, 94 llon (New South Wales). De Bortoli’s Noble Hestan 2007 Stephanie Cabernet Sau- grown on the winery’s estate vineyard. It’s a real success, One is as good as ever in 2007, offering intense botrytis, 93 vignon (Napa Valley). Smooth and rich, a a dry, tannic wine of considerable elegance and spicy dried apricots, honey and bergamot in a sweetly unctu- flashy Cabernet that impresses for sheer opulence. deliciousness. But it’s too young to drink anytime soon, ous style. Think of a Sauternes, but with more sugar and Notable especially for the texture, with perfectly ripe, with a scoury, astringent mouthfeel. Made with a splash less alcohol. It should age well for 10 or more years. De rounded tannins, and the blackberry and cassis flavors of Petit Verdot and Malbec, its core of sour candy black- Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C. are very fine. Another success from the fabulous 2007 berries and black cherries needs at least five years to be- abv: 10% Price: $32/375 ml vintage in Napa Valley. —S.H. gin to emerge. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $50 abv: 14.9% Price: $95

Jarvis 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- 94 gnon (Napa Valley). The estate vineyard is Jarvis 2007 Lake William (Napa Valley). Riglos 2008 Gran Corte (Mendoza). A in the Vaca Mountains, east of the city of Napa. You can 93 Napa reds don’t get richer than this. Made from 93 luxurious Malbec-and-Cab-led blend that spent taste the cool climate in the brisk acidity that frames roughly equal parts of Merlot and the two Cabernets, 22 months in new French oak and hardly shows it. The this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s very ripe in black- Sauvignon and Franc, with a squirt of Petit Verdot, it’s nose is sweet and deeply fruity, with floral violet notes berries, with rich layers of toast from new French oak. so sweet in blackberries and cherries and caramelized and chocolate. It’s seriously dense in the mouth, with For all the sweet fruit, the finish is dry, even rasping. new oak, it’s almost like a dessert wine. But it’s total- chewy tannins, roasted blackberry, exotic spice and to- Such are the tannins that the wine feels tough, even at ly dry. Dazzling and showy, the flashiness is given real bacco flavors. Roasted and rich on the back end, with this age. Give it another five years, at least.Cellar Se- substance by depth and finish. Drink now–2015. —S.H. broad swaths of berry fruit and texture. Drink now lection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $115 through 2013. Paul Hobbs Wines. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $195 —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Vineyard 7&8 2008 7 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Another wonderful Cabernet from this fine winery, which manages to finesse Spring Mountain’s notorious tan- nins. While it’s diamond hard and dry, with a brittle minerality, it’s ex- travagantly lush in blackberry, cher- ry, cassis and licorice fruit, accented Quinta da Garrida 2007 Reserva (Dão). Nickel & Nickel 2008 Martin Stelling with 95% new French oak. Lay it 92 Intensely concentrated wine, still young, show- 92 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). down for a good 6–8 years. Cellar ing powerful tannins and big black fruit. It has a solid There’s a huge, molten core of blackberry and cherry Selection. —S.H. core, very structured, with the rich fruit acting as a bal- fruit in this wine, whose grapes source from the prima- abv: 14.8% Price: $75 ance and foil. Age for 3–4 years. Winebow. Cellar Se- ry vineyard for Far Niente, which is Nickel & Nickel’s lection. —R.V. parent company. It shows its west Oakville pedigree in abv: 14% Price: $17 ripeness, dryness and finesse of tannins, but those tan- nins are very astringent, typifying the winery’s house style. Give this 100% Cabernet a good six years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $140

Nickel & Nickel 2008 Branding Iron Cab- 92 ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This 100% Cabernet is the ripest and sweetest of the winery’s 2008 Zaca Mesa 2007 Black Bear Block Syrah offerings, but it still shows the tannins that are Nickel 93 (Santa Ynez Valley). Made from 100% Syrah, & Nickel’s mark. The vineyard is in west Oakville, and Nickel & Nickel 2008 Quarry Vineyard this wine shows Zaca Mesa’s house style of exception- offers that region’s superbly lush, delicious blackberry, 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Really ally ripe, heady fruit flavors tucked into a balanced, dry blueberry and cherry flavors. Those tannins, while firm, tannic now, with a mouth-numbing astringency that ac- wine. It’s as lush as velvet in the mouth, with complex are sweetly ripe, giving the wine an oxymoronic soft centuates the dryness and makes the mouthfeel rather flavors of blackberries, anise, cocoa and black pepper. toughness. —S.H. rasping. However, There’s no question about the depth Feels soft and light and yet powerful and insistent at the abv: 14.8% Price: $95 of flavor. This 100% Cabernet is vast in sweet blackber- same time. Drink now–2013. —S.H. ries and cassis, with an earthy undertone of herbs and abv: 14.5% Price: $60 minerality. Give it at least six years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

Nickel & Nickel 2008 C.C. Ranch Caber- 92 net Sauvignon (Rutherford). Offers a blast Brokenwood 2007 Oakey Creek Semil- of sweet red cherry candy flavor, accented with new oak 92 lon (Hunter Valley). Of Brokenwood’s three notes of buttered toast and caramel. There’s no question current-release Semillons, this one gets the nod as the this 100% Cabernet is delicious, but it’s also fiercely tan- Nickel & Nickel 2008 Rock Cairn Vine- most complete. It’s light to medium in weight, but oh so nic. Makes the gums quiver. Should develop in the bot- 92 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). long and precise on the finish, and intense yet seemingly tle over the next seven years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Classic Nickel & Nickel Cabernet, bone dry and super transparent, like spider’s silk, with fleeting glimpses of abv: 14.5% Price: $95 tannic. Hits the mouth hard with astringency that ef- wet stones and moss. Try between 2015 and 2025. Old fectively masks the ripe blackberry fruit. Half new oak Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. adds a toasty richness, but also some hard wood tannins. abv: 12.2% Price: $32 Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it really needs cellaring. Try after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $95

WineMag.com | 5 Nieto Senetiner 2009 Terroir Blend Mal- Calcareous 2009 Viognier-Marsanne Gauchezco 2009 Plata Malbec (Mendo- 92 bec (Mendoza). An impressive Malbec 91 (Paso Robles). Calcareous’s regular Viogni- 91 za). Spicy, concentrated aromas of leather, ber- blended from three vineyards ranging from 3,120 to er and Chardonnay are very good wines, but somehow, ry fruit and dried cheddar cheese lead to a lush, bal- 3,780 feet in elevation. The aromas are inviting and this blend of both of them is better. The Viognier is un- anced palate with heft, acidity and tasty flavors of choc- open, with wild berry, spice and toasty notes. Elegant oaked, while the Marsanne was fermented and aged in olate, coffee and spiced blackberry. Full, long and fla- and well balanced in the mouth, with smoky, ripe fla- half new French oak. The flavors are elaborate and exot- vorful on the finish. A big Malbec but one that’s well vors of berry, plum and earth. Toasty and coconutty on ic, of ripe tropical fruits and honey, yet the wine is crisp balanced. Mountain West Wines. —M.S. the finish. Drink now through 2014. Winebow. —M.S. and refreshingly dry. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $33 abv: 14.7% Price: $28

Lost Canyon 2009 Morelli Lane Vineyard Riglos 2008 Gran Malbec (Mendoza). Finca El Origen 2009 Gran Reserva Mal- 91 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). De- 92 Rich, pure and inviting as can be, with coco- 91 bec (Uco Valley). A little charred and hard liciously dry and complex, offering waves of fruit and nut, cola, licorice and a ton of black fruit making for on the nose, with licorice, pepper, mint and coffee aro- spices. Raspberry, cherry, red currant, red licorice, cola, an excellent bouquet. The palate is rich and smooth in mas. The palate is perfectly balanced and quite gen- cinnamon, clove and anise spice flavors are brightened texture, with blackberry, cassis and cola flavors. Lay- erous, with massive blackberry and chocolate flavors. with brisk acids. May not be an ager, but terrific now ered and pure on the finish, with exemplary depth and Spicy and long on the finish, with mocha notes. Defi- with ahi tuna, lamb chops, steak. —S.H. length. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. nitely a ripe, big-boned wine. Carolina Wine Brands abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 14.9% Price: $30 USA. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $20

Lost Canyon 2009 Saralee’s Vineyard Pi- Stephen & Walker 2009 Late-Harvest 91 not Noir (Russian River Valley). This isn’t a 92 Chardonnay (Mendocino Ridge). Smell- Fuse 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa big Pinot Noir. It’s not dark or heavy or soft. This cool ing like a deep-dish apple pie, this wonderfully smooth, 91 Valley). Another very good Cabernet from part of the Russian River doesn’t yield such wines. It’s golden colored late-harvest Chardonnay is voluptuous Fuse, at a great price, following the 2007. Blended with light in tannins and silky in the mouth, the essence of and sexy, rich yet not overwhelming, perfectly balanced Syrah and Merlot, it’s rich and soft in blackberries and Pinot Noir. Official alcohol is 14.4%, which seems about in sweetness and only 11% alcohol. It would be so good cassis, with a peppered, smoked meat note that must right. For all that, it’s very rich in cherry pie filling, with a dry cheese or tarte Tatin but can also stand with come from the Syrah. Best now. Editors’ Choice. cola, sweet tobacco, spice and sandalwood flavors, and aplomb on its own. —V.B. —S.H. should develop over the next 3–5 years. —S.H. abv: 11% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.4% Price: $45

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Merryvale 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros). Chocolate Box 2008 Dark Chocolate Shi- J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa Reser- 91 A fancy Chardonnay, whose 50% new French 90 raz (Barossa Valley). Plummy, rich and ripe, 90 va (Alentejano). An intensely structured wine, oak gives a delicious layer of buttered toast and vanil- with a creamy mouthfeel and dense, chocolaty flavors, surrounded by a cushion of sweet, jammy fruits. The la, but is in keeping with the volume of the underlying this is a hefty mouthful of Barossa Shiraz at a great price. wine is warm and rich, with a tarry smoky character as wine. Made from grapes grown in some of the best vine- At 14.5% abv, it’s nicely balanced, with a lingering fin- well as acidity. It should be aged for another 2–3 years. yards in eastern Carneros, it’s rich in pineapple, lemon, ish. Drink now and over the next couple of years. Roc- Winebow. —R.V. lime and green apples, with a honeyed finish. —S.H. land Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: NA Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $17

Joseph Jewell 2008 Elk Prairie Vineyard Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Sauvi- 90 Pinot Noir (Humboldt County). Though the 91 gnon Blanc (Columbia Valley). A delight- Gundlach Bundschu 2010 Estate Vine- bottle is incredibly heavy—a bit much for Pinot—the ful expression of the grape, cleverly mixing 80% stain- 90 yard Gewürztraminer (Sonoma Coast). wine is surprisingly lithe and velvety, with inviting aro- less with 20% French oak fermentation, and bringing A very nice example of a dry Gewürz. Name an exotic matics of cherry and spice. Layered and tamely volup- out the best of both. Juicy and refreshing, with a tangy spice, and you’ll find it here, especially cinnamon. The tuous, this is a tremendous, tiny-production Pinot from fruit core of citrus, grapefruit and pineapple flavors. It’s fruit is all about oranges, pears and lychee, while acidity an unlikely place—Humboldt County—a place with lively and acidic without being at all sour, and a pleas- is brisk and fine. Will challenge home chef and somme- clear potential in this producer’s hands. —V.B. ing, lightly toasty roundness fills out the finish. Editors’ lier pairing talent. Pork and stewed fruit come to mind. abv: 13.9% Price: $39 Choice. —P.G. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $18 abv: 14.4% Price: $23

Merryvale 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 90 Polished and elegant, in the Merryvale style, Brokenwood 2006 ILR Reserve Vineyard Hestan 2006 Meyer Vineyard Caber- this is a fresh, young Pinot Noir to appreciate now for 90 Selection Semillon (Hunter Valley). Bro- 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Very ripe in its ripe fruitiness. Shows flavors of raspberry and cherry kenwood’s flagship Semillon is light in body, with an blackberries, cherries, cassis, licorice and smoky oak, pie filling with the spices, vanilla and smoky sweet san- acid structure that’s notable for its intensity. Aromas of with deep, long flavors that are sweet in fruity essence. dalwood. So delicious and easy to drink. —S.H. struck flint and lime zest presage the crisp lime flavors Already throwing some sediment, but still a very tannic abv: 14.3% Price: $35 and fresh, zippy finish. Give this puppy another few wine, brooding and astringent. Needs a good six years, years in the cellar to gain honeyed nuance, then drink and could go the distance. Cellar Selection. —S.H. it over the next decade. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Se- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 lection. —J.C. abv: 11% Price: $48

WineMag.com | 7 Nickel & Nickel 2008 Kelham Vineyard Sea Mist 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian Zaca Mesa 2007 Z Three (Santa Ynez 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Drink this 90 River Valley). A lovely Sauvignon Blanc that 90 Valley). A blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Gr- with rich, fatty steaks and chops to cut through the tan- shows how well the variety grows in the Russian River enache, and a fancy wine to drink now for its wealth of nins, which are considerable. Right out of the bottle, Valley. It’s dry and crisp in acidity, with rich, honeyed flavor. Dry, soft and velvety, it shows ripe berry and cur- the wine is drily astringent. But there’s a rich core of flavors of green apples, peaches, sweet lemons and va- rant fruit, with earthy, meaty notes and loads of crushed blackberries, cherries and cherry liqueur that makes the nilla. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. black pepper. —S.H. finish almost sweet. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $42 abv: 14.2% Price: $95

Zuccardi 2009 Emma Bonarda (Mendo- Planeta 2009 Carricante (Sicilia). This is a Vina Robles 2010 White4 (Paso Robles). 90 za). Black cherry and wild berry aromas are 90 very exciting wine that represents Planeta’s first 90 Quite an interesting wine. A blend of Viognier, tight and don’t stray much from center stage. The pal- winemaking efforts on the superhot (figuratively and lit- Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc and Vermentino, it’s not just ate is layered, fresh and spunky, with flavors that match erally) Mt. Etna volcano. Refined and pristine aromas of a simple mix of leftover batches, but a true attempt at the bouquet in that cherry, wild berry and plum run the pear, stone fruit and lemon zest are backed by a beau- constructing a complex interpretation of terroir. With show. Toasty and chocolaty on the finish, with a rock- tiful veil of drying mineral and brimstone. Congratula- apricot, tangerine and white peach flavors, it’s a fasci- solid feel and bright fruit flavors that don’t quit. Wine- tions to the Planeta family! Palm Bay International. Ed- nating alternative to a dry, crisp white wine. Editors’ sellers Ltd. —M.S. itors’ Choice. —M.L. Choice. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: NA Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $16

Château Haut Selve 2010 Graves. Herba- Proemio 2006 Barrel Selection Red Wine 89 ceous, crisp wine with green notes leading to 90 (Mendoza). Red berry aromas with spice and Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2008 Shiraz grapefruit and lemon zest flavors. The wine is clear as licorice shadings make for a good opening. The wine 90 (McLaren Vale). This wine wobbles along the a bell, with its fruit deliciously forward. Baron Francois smacks down hard on the palate, creating a clacky feel line between superripe and overripe, at times seeming Ltd. —R.V. to go with plum, berry, herb and spice flavors. Serious a bit raisiny, at others seeming just right. It’s full-bodied, abv: 13% Price: $20 and full, with juiciness, grabby tannins and a toasty cof- soft and expansive, with a lush, long finish, but drink it fee-laden finish. Malbec, Syrah and Merlot. Atlanta Im- over the next few years. Jackson Family Wines. —J.C. provement Co. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $53

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Château Haut Selve 2008 Graves. Ripe Deusa Nai 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). J. Lohr 2007 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet 89 wine, full of rounded juicy black currant fruits, 89 Rioja-based Marqués de Cáceres’ first foray into 88 Sauvignon (St. Helena). An elegant wine, this has a core of tannins, dry and laced with wood toast. Albariño is a success. This wine is light, salinic and mel- rich in blackberry, blueberry and cherry fruit, with plen- There is a black chocolate bitterness which goes with ony on the nose. The palate is complete and offers fine ty of sweet, smoky oak. There’s a cut of acidity, and the the acidity on the finish. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. acidity with brine, pineapple and green apple flavors. tannins are firm. Your window for drinking this Cab is abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Good and lightly pithy on the finish. Vineyard Brands. 2013. —S.H. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $16

Gauchezco 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). 89 Composed up front, with floral aromas match- Toad Hollow 2009 Goldie’s Vineyard Pi- ing wits with dry herb notes and solid berry fruit scents. Paul Dolan 2009 Made With Organical- 86 not Noir (Russian River Valley). This bot- The palate is snappy and crisp, with focus and narrow, 89 ly Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon tling has been variable over the years. The ’09 is soft tight flavors of raspberry and plum blended with vanilla. (Mendocino County). Paul Dolan uses fruit from his and fruity, with pleasant raspberry, cherry, cola, brown Bright and juicy throughout, with vanilla and toast on Dark Horse Ranch as well as some from Parducci to sugar and cinnamon spice flavors. Drink now. —S.H. the finish. Mountain West Wines. —M.S. make this almost 100% Cab (there’s 2.5% Petit Verdot), abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $15 a fruit-forward wine with ripe, concentrated flavors and awesome dollops of cinnamon and cola spice. Let the wine air. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

J. Lohr 2009 October Night Chardonnay Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend 85 (Arroyo Seco). Oak stands out on this Char- 89 Merlot (Sonoma-Napa). A sweet, soft, lus- donnay, offering buttered toast and vanilla flavors. The cious wine that flatters the mouth with flavors of cher- wine underneath is a little thin in fruit, but it has nice ries, raspberries, currants, milk chocolate and toast. Annika Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay Monterey acidity. —S.H. Easy to drink, with elegant tannins. —S.H. 88 (Livermore Valley). Made by Karl Wente for abv: 14.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.3% Price: $23 golfer Annika Sorenstam, this Chardonnay is luxurious- ly big, oaky and full of vanilla, caramel, ripe apple and lime characters and very good for its style. Textured and looking for buttery lobster rolls or similar such fare to pair itself with. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

WineMag.com | 9 SPIRITS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Voli Raspberry Cocoa Fusion (France; Condes de Albarei 2010 Albariño (Rías Toad Hollow 2010 Eye of the Toad Dry 90 Palm Bay International, Port Washing- 90 Baixas). Apple and melon aromas are pure and 90 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). ton, NY); 30% abv, $23. While it won’t cure your minerally. The palate is round and offers good density Acid fans will find plenty to celebrate with this 100% Pi- craving for a chocolate fix, this vodka is smooth and and acidic balance along with tasty, better-than-normal not Noir. It rocks in tartness and is fully dry, with a deli- pleasant sipping, and surprisingly addictive. The aroma melon, papaya and apple flavors. Creamy but balanced cate, silky mouthfeel. The flavors are subtle but satisfy- translates more grape-like than berry. The clear spirit on the finish; meets or beats any reasonable expectation ing, suggesting strawberries, rose petals and Provençal is mildly flavored, with a pleasant, subtle cocoa finish. for fine Alabariño. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. herbs. Easily merits its high score for getting the rosé Made in Cognac, France, this spirit is 80 calories com- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 job done right. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. pared to the 100 that most vodkas have. abv: 11% Price: $13

BEST BUYS

Martín Códax 2010 Albariño (Rías Baix- 90 as). A little leesy on the nose, but mostly it’s Aveleda 2010 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho forward and lemony. The palate is citric and crisp as a 89 Verde). A delicious, dry Vinho Verde, its acid- Aveleda 2010 Alvarinho (Minho). A splen- whistle, with lemon, green apple and a secondary sweet- ity tamed by the ripe fruit and soft creamed apple fla- 91 did Alvarinho, produced in the southern Vin- ness akin to pineapple. Focused and clean on the finish; vors. It has a steely edge, the acidity cutting through to ho Verde region, with ripe creaminess as well as shafts chiseled and defined. Martín Códax USA.Best Buy. give a firm and refreshing aftertaste. FJN Fine Wines of lime juice and grapefruit. It’s ready to drink, while —M.S. LLC. —R.V. it could age for another year. FJN Fine Wines LLC. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 11.5% Price: $9 —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

Pacific Rim 2010 Riesling (Columbia Val- Finca El Origen 2010 Reserva Malbec 90 ley). Right on the borderline between dry and 89 (Uco Valley). Dense and solid from the start, Aveleda 2009 Follies Fonte Nossa Sen- sweet, this richly fruity Riesling is packed with flavors of with deep plum, wild berry and earth aromas. Ripe, 91 hora da Vandoma Touriga Nacional- peach, apricot, pear, a hint of mint, and a streak of wet whole and nice on the palate, with crusty blackberry, Cabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). Rich, rounded and stone. There is a lot going on for such an inexpensive chocolate and spice flavors. Finishes lightly toasted, smooth, this is an exceptional value, with its black fruits, wine. Best Buy. —P.G. with comportment. Real good for everyday Malbec. firm tannins and dense texture coming from Touriga abv: 11.5% Price: $10 Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon. It feels rich, ready to abv: 14.5% Price: $12 drink now, likely to develop over the next several years. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Alamos 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery Concannon 2009 Selected Vineyards Porcupine Ridge 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 88 at first, then it rounds out and settles down to 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). For 88 (Western Cape). Green apple and white wa- offer blackberry richness and jammy aromas. The pal- a big-production, small-price Cabernet it would be hard termelon rind lead the way on this Sauv Blanc, as fla- ate is soft, lush and cushioned, while blackberry flavors to find much better than this, a smooth, round and lush vors of green fig and bright citrus liven up the medium- run sweet, toasty and chocolaty. Remains sweet on the Cab with some of Cab Franc’s herbaceousness (though weight mouth. Balanced and very drinkable; enjoy now. finish, with fig and minty spice flavors. E & J Gallo. Best only Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot have been blended Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. Buy. —M.S. in), cherry, plum and rhubarb. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.8% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Rocland Estate 2009 Ass Kisser Fine Red Bogatell 2010 Garnacha Blanca (Terra Kirkland Signature 2009 Malbec (Mendo- 88 Wine (South Australia). Lush and creamy in 88 Alta). Pure peach, pear and oceanic aromas 88 za). Meaty and dark right from the start, with texture and showing a bit of warmth, this is a mouth- properly reflect the wine’s name, which stems from a berry syrup, toast and peppery aromas. The palate is filling, crowd-pleasing blend of Grenache, Shiraz and popular beach in nearby Barcelona. In the mouth, it’s ripe and good, with bulk and balance. Tastes toasty and Mataro (Mourvèdre). Ripe currant fruit is nicely framed tangy and linear, with crisp, citrusy acids and corre- spicy, with licorice and black pepper supporting ripe by hints of vanilla and cedar. Drink now–2015. Rocland sponding flavors of lime and green apple. Finishes tight blackberry. Healthy, long and nice overall. Misa Im- Wine Imports. Best Buy. —J.C. and dry. Savorian Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. ports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.9% Price: $8

Santa Julia 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sau- Borsao 2010 Garnacha (Campo de Bor- Parducci 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- 88 vignon (Mendoza). Full and concentrated, 88 ja). Big, black and alive in the glass, with earth 88 docino County). A terrific deal in Mendocino with aromas of roasted blackberry, cassis and plum. The and black fruit aromas. The mouth is lively and pure, Sauvignon Blanc, subdued in the nose at first, this wine palate is solid and offers a pleasant and proper mouth- with blackberry and red plum flavors covering both the opens up into easy-drinking vanilla and lemon flavors, feel, while the flavors of cassis, raspberry and plum sat- dark and red fruit bases. Grabby and long on the finish; its stainless-steel fermentation keeping it refreshing and isfy and come with only a touch of herbal essence. Dark very likable value-priced Grenache. Fine Estates From light and a go-to apéritif; its depth keeps it fresh and on the finish, with follow through. Winesellers Ltd. Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. bright over time. An ideal SB to go with a light dinner. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8 Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $11

WineMag.com | 11 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Wakefield Estate 2008 Promised Land José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periqui- Menduco 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco 88 Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon (South Aus- 87 ta (Setubal). The latest vintage of Periquita 87 Valley). A touch rubbery and medicinal if you tralia). With its red-berry fruit tinged with tar and maintains the high standards of this popular Portuguese get deep into the bouquet, with sizable berry aromas black olive, this is a complex, savory red available for a brand. With its juicy fruit, soft tannins and blackberry to boot. The palate is comfortable and balanced, with song. It’s medium in weight and creamy in texture, turn- flavors, it is a little more structured than some previous earthy black fruit flavors that suggest fig and blackber- ing crisp and silky on the finish. Drink now. American vintages while still keeping its full fruity character. Palm ry. Toasty and chocolaty on the finish. Carolina Wine Wine Distributors. Best Buy. —J.C. Bay International. Best Buy. —R.V. Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $12

Borsao 2010 Monte Oton Garnacha Nieto Senetiner 2010 Reserva Bonarda 87 (Campo de Borja). This perennial Best Buy Korbel NV Brut (California). Another fine 87 (Mendoza). Smoky and dark from the start, is once again rock solid. Fresh berry fruit and compote 87 brut from Korbel, dry, yeasty and citrusy, just with char and earth aromas to go with basic blackberry. aromas make for a good bouquet. There’s no shortage like a good bubbly should be. It’s a little rough and The palate delivers power and a good texture, with bold of acidity, so the palate is jumpy and lively, with crisp, scoury in the bubbles, but at this price, a good deal. blackberry and peppery flavors. Becomes more rubbery almost tart raspberry and plum flavors. Structured and Best Buy. —S.H. as it opens but holds onto its plum and chocolaty vir- forward; hamburgers and pizza wine par excellence. abv: 12% Price: $12 tues. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $7

Line 39 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (North 87 Coast). $10 for this very drinkable Cab? That’s Parducci 2009 Chardonnay (Mendocino Borsao 2010 Viña Borgia Garnacha crazy. But Line 39 is exactly that, a concentrated, juicy 87 County). This inexpensive Chardonnay has a 87 (Campo de Borja). This Garnacha is another and fruity Cab with plenty of classic Cab tannins that’s fair amount of oaky depth to it, unexpectedly since only from the Borsao operations, and it’s clean with plenty of an incredibly good value and probably pretty easy to 5% of it was aged in American oak, the rest in stainless black fruit on the nose and palate. Juicy, tight, forward find. Scoop it up where you find out though note that steel. Nonetheless it has toasty vanilla flavors and aro- stuff with a dark and peppery finish. A little raw and two bottles were tasted here with some bottle variation. mas of lime, apple and cantaloupe and tastes refreshing pointy, so drink with salami, a burger or skirt steak. Fine Best Buy. —V.B. and clean. Best Buy. —V.B. Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $6

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Round Hill 2010 Oak Free Chardonnay Valentin Bianchi 2010 Elsa Bianchi Mal- Finca El Origen 2010 Malbec Rosé (Men- 87 (California). So ripe and rich in fruit, you 87 bec (Mendoza). Spicy black cherry aromas 86 doza). Berry and rubber band are the lead aro- won’t even notice the absence of oak. The grapes come are lightly floral, lemony and suggestive of a woodsy mas. The wine has texture and lasting freshness despite mostly from Lodi, with a touch of Monterey. Bright- candle. The palate is balanced and bold, with ripe black- being more than a year old already. It’s medium in size ened with crisp acidity, the flavors are of spicy, zesty berry and spicy flavors. Rich, strong and a bit chocolaty and body, with red fruit and apple skin flavors. Solid, tangerines and vanilla. Best Buy. —S.H. on the back end. A winning wine for the price. Quintes- fruity and just lively enough. Carolina Wine Brands abv: 13% Price: $8 sential Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $9 abv: 14% Price: $9

Santa Julia 2010 Reserva Malbec (Men- 87 doza). Dense, meaty and lightly herbal on the Bota Box 2009 Riesling (California). The Frisk 2010 Prickly Riesling (Victoria). This nose, with minty berry notes. The palate is firm and is- 86 important thing to know about this Riesling is 86 is truly prickly, with a slight spritz of CO2 acting sues tannic crack in front of plum, herbal flavors, brown that it’s frankly sweet, with sugary apricot, orange, green to perk up the lime, green apple and pineapple aromas sugar and vanilla. Turns mildly hot and grating on the fin- apple and honeysuckle flavors. It’s also brilliantly clean and flavors. It’s at the same time plump and off dry, deft- ish, with juicy length. Good for everyday Malbec. Wine- and vibrant in acidity. If you like this off-dry style, it’s ly balancing sweetness and zest. Drink now. Old Bridge sellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. definitely for you. Best Buy. —S.H. Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 12% Price: $20/3 L abv: 9% Price: $10

Symington Family Estates 2009 Altano Callia 2010 Alta Malbec (Tulum Valley). La Purísima 2010 Capa Rota Macabeo 87 (Douro). A warm, ripe vintage of Altano, its 86 Good berry and plum aromas send this out in 86 (Yecla). Light and basic Macabeo with melon berry and red plum fruits rich and generous. It has at- solid form. The palate is full and grabby, with jammy, and other sweet, mellow aromas. The palate is a bit flat tractive, well-balanced, soft tannins. A layer of acidity slightly herbal flavors of blackberry and plum. The fin- in feel but otherwise there’s nothing wrong. Tastes of and spice completes this harmonious wine. Vineyard ish is medium in length, with size and a spot of heat. light citrus, kiwi and white grapes. Chalky and slight- Brands. —R.V. Ripe, good and fresh for an under-$10 Malbec. Palm ly stony on the finish. Marquee Selections. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $NA Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 12% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 13 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Barefoot NV Deliciously Sweet Moscato Courtney Benham 2010 Gewürztraminer Glen Ellen 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Pi- 85 (California). Rides the Moscato wave with a 85 (Santa Barbara County). Soft and a little 84 not Grigio (California). A sound, everyday sweet honeyed richness, carrying tangerine, apricot and sweet in sugar and honey, yet shows Gewürz’s spices, Pinot Grigio, with good citrus and spice flavors, bright- lemon fruit. Fine acidity gives it a brisk, clean finish. with abundantly ripe tropical fruit, citrus, vanilla and ened with crisp acidity. Gets the nod for simple rich- Best Buy. —S.H. honeysuckle flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. ness. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 9% Price: $7 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $10/1.5 L

Concannon 2010 Selected Vineyards Pi- Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve 85 not Grigio (Central Coast). Drink this dry- un4seen 2009 Red Wine (California). 83 Chardonnay (California). Sugary sweet in ish wine with almost anything that calls for a light-bod- 85 Dark like a cave in color, this big red blend con- honeysuckle, pineapple and vanilla flavors, this Chard ied, crisp white, and don’t worry about it. It has savory sists of Zinfandel, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot, all has the benefit of crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. citrus flavors, with a pleasant hint of vanilla honey.Best sourced from vineyards in Lodi and Clarksburg. Oaky abv: 13% Price: $10/1.5 L Buy. —S.H. and tannic, not overdone alcohol-wise, the cherry fla- abv: 13% Price: $10 vors are just right for the backyard barbecue or other casual meat-eating gathering. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Old 83 Vine Zinfandel (California). Pretty good for Concannon 2010 Selected Vineyards the price, with jammy cherry, berry, cocoa and spice fla- 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). A fine vors. An easy Zin to drink with BBQ or pasta with to- wine, brisk in acidity and clean in the finish, with slight- mato sauce. Best Buy. —S.H. ly sweet flavors of oranges, pears, peaches and honey. abv: 14.9% Price: $10/1.5 L A nice cocktail sipper, or with Asian fare. Best Buy. Bota Box 2010 Pinot Grigio (California). —S.H. 84 A nice wine in a box, and at the equivalent of abv: 13% Price: $10 about five bucks a bottle, a value. Crisp in acidity and clean, it has flavors of oranges, limes and apricots. A little too sweet, but at this price, who’s counting? Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $20/3 L

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 BEST BUYS er, Viognier and Trebbiano that manages to be large- Penfolds 2008 Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvi- ly neutral on the palate at the same time it’s perfumed 91 gnon-Shiraz (South Australia). Penfolds on the nose. Frothy and off dry. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. Chief Winemaker Peter Gago is enthusiastic about his —J.C. 2008 Shirazes, including this blend of 52% Cabernet abv: 11.5% Price: $10 and 48% Shiraz. Bin 389 continues to represent excel- lent value in a cellar-worthy red; it’s richly fruited, with oak in matching intensity yet not jammy or oaky, and the DESSERT WINES velvety finish lasts a good long time. Drink now–2025, and probably beyond. Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar De Bortoli 2007 Noble One Bortytis Selection. —J.C. 94 Semillon (New South Wales). For full re- abv: 14.5% Price: $36 view see page 4. Glen Ellen 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Pi- Tahbilk 2005 Eric Stevens Purbrick Cab- 83 not Noir (California). Thin, with acidic cherry Peter Lehmann NV Classic Muscat 91 ernet Sauvignon (Nagambie Lakes). Not flavors and a touch of oak. Saved by dryness and a nice 92 (Barossa). Fortified Muscats from the Baros- a fruit bomb at all, this is a harmonious Cabernet, one Pinot silkiness. Best Buy. —S.H. sa are rare these days, but this is a delicious stickie well that gracefully combines cedar and vanilla from oak ag- abv: 13.5% Price: $10/1.5 L worth trying. It delivers cherry-scented toffee and toast- ing with richly textured cassis fruit. It’s full bodied and ed walnuts on the nose, then adds caramel to the mix. firmly structured, with a long, elegant finish. Drink It’s nicely balanced between fruit and nutty complexity. 2014–2020. Epic Wines. Cellar Selection. —J.C. Hess Collection. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $51 abv: 17.5% Price: $25/500 ml Yalumba 2008 FDR1A Cabernet Sauvi- Continued from Page 2 Peter Lehmann 2009 Botrytis Semillon 91 gnon-Shiraz (Barossa). A lush blend of 62% 88 (Barossa Valley). A nicely balanced sweet Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Shiraz, this is full bod- ate, while the finish is crisp. Drink it over the next six wine, with moderate alcohol levels that would make it ied and a bit jammy at this stage, full of primary blue- months or so. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. attractive as a pairing with foie gras or as a dessert-style berry and blackberry fruit framed with cedary oak. The abv: 12.5% Price: $14 sipper. Dried apricots, honey and melon notes end on a potent finish lingers, suggesting the potential to cellar citrusy note, including a bit of orange pith. Drink now. through 2020 if you have the patience to wait for a more Hess Collection. —J.C. complex, integrated wine. If not, just pop and pour for SPARKLING WINE abv: 11.5% Price: $17/375 ml the upfront fruit. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 Henry’s Drive Vignerons 2010 The Post- 88 mistress Blanc de Blanc (Padthaway). A AUSTRALIAN REDS Chapel Hill 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon fine repository for excess Chardonnay fruit, The Post- 90 (McLaren Vale). Full-bodied and intense, this mistress offers only slight yeastiness, but ample citrus CABERNETS & BLENDS is a rich, ripe Cabernet for drinking now–2018. Cassis fruit and a soft, elegant mousse. Gingery and toasty on fruit is tinged with hints of mint, chocolate and vanilla, the finish. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. Moss Wood 2006 Moss Wood Vineyard and while the tannins are velvety soft, the finish remains abv: 12% Price: $20 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). fresh. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C. This is Margaret River Cab at its best: silky and Clar- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Pauletts 2008 Polish Hill River Trillians et-like but with the extra flesh of the New World. Pipe 89 Sparkling Brut (Clare Valley). Better known tobacco and cedar flow together seamlessly into a long, Château Tanunda 2008 Noble Baron for its dry Rieslings that benefit from aging, this Clare cool finish. Delicious now, and should age gracefully 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). Perfectly Valley producer has turned out a very respectable bub- through 2020. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. fits the prototypical Barossa style of Cabernet, display- bly that’s ready to drink. It’s round—almost lush—on abv: 14% Price: $95 ing ripe cassis and chocolate notes framed by ample the palate, boasting hints of citrus, cream and toast. In- oak. It’s mouthfilling and round, with no hard edges and ternational Spirits & Wines, LLC. —J.C. Penfolds 2008 Bin 707 Cabernet Sau- a long, mint-tinged finish. Banfi Vintners. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $NA 92 vignon (South Australia). Bin 707 always abv: 14.5% Price: $50 stands out for its massive initial hit of American oak, but Westend NV Eternity Sparkling Cuvée this wine has the fruit-driven power to stand up to its Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz- 86 (South Eastern Australia). Ready to drink, barrel regime. Perhaps because of the warm vintage, 90 Grenache (South Australia). This is a huge- this is a soft, rounded sparkler that offers plenty of the wine is full-bodied but rather open-knit on the pal- ly fruity, lush wine destined for early consumption. The toasted brioche flavor, with pineapple and honey com- ate, marrying cedar and vanilla with cassis. Anticipated blend of 65% Shiraz and 35% Grenache displays almost ing through on the finish. A.W. Direct. —J.C. maturity: 2015–2025. Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar grapey aromas and flavors, a bit of cassis and plushly abv: 11.5% Price: $13 Selection. —J.C. textured tannins. Drink now as a cocktail red or with ca- abv: 14.5% Price: $150 sual fare. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Jip Jip Rocks NV Sparkling Cuvée abv: 14.5% Price: $20 85 (Padthaway). A fruit-driven style of sparkling Langmeil 2008 Jackaman’s Cabernet wine, with apple and citrus notes only slightly touched 91 Sauvignon (Barossa). Can a Barossa Caber- Pauletts 2006 Polish Hill River Caber- by yeastiness. It’s a bit coarse in texture, but soft and net be said to be understated? Especially considering 90 net Merlot (Clare Valley). The blend of 70% cuddly on the finish, making it easy to back for another the warm vintage, this wine is wonderfully elegant and Cabernet and 30% Merlot spent 15 months in French sip. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. restrained, revealing hints of mint, cassis and oak. It’s oak, yielding a medium-bodied wine that shows classi- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 full bodied and dense, yet remains fresh, with a long cally restrained Cabernet character on the midpalate. finish that artfully balances firmness and softness, crisp- Cedar, tobacco and cassis mingle easily, shading into Yellow Tail NV Bubbles Sparkling White ness and weight. Drink now–2020. Negociants USA, chocolate on the slightly warm finish. Drink now–2016. 83 Wine (South Eastern Australia). Yellow Inc. —J.C. International Spirits & Wines, LLC. —J.C. Tail’s sparkler is an aromatic blend of Semillon, Tramin- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 15 Shingleback 2006 D Block Reserve Cab- wine for immediate gratification. Treasury Wine Es- Langmeil 2009 Three Gardens SMG 89 ernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale). Full bod- tates. Best Buy. —J.C. 88 (Barossa). Aside from some tarry, rub- ied, chunky and grapey, this is a young, still somewhat abv: 13.5% Price: $10 bery notes immediately upon opening, this is a pretty rambunctious teenager of a wine. Cassis and vanilla play straightforward, medium- to full-bodied blend of 40% leading roles, as yet lacking much complexity, but finish- Angove’s 2007 Vineyard Select Cabernet Shiraz, 32% Mourvèdre and 28% Grenache. Sweet va- ing long and mouthwatering. Give it a couple of years in 85 Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Spicy and herbal nilla accents lush blackberry fruit, while spice notes the cellar. Precept Wines. —J.C. upfront, with cassis fruit that seems just a little dried mark the supple finish. Decant or otherwise aerate it, abv: 14.5% Price: $35 out, giving way to molasses and brown sugar. It’s a medi- and drink it over the next few years. Negociants USA, um-bodied Cabernet with slightly drying tannins and a Inc. —J.C. Shirvington 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon coarse-textured finish. Trinchero Family Estates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 89 (McLaren Vale). This well-endowed Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $19 is full bodied and supple, with soft curves suggesting Rocland Estate 2009 Ass Kisser Fine immediate drinkability. It starts off with mint and cassis Jacob’s Creek 2009 Reserve Cabernet 88 Red Wine (South Australia). For full review on the nose, but quickly develops some dried-fruit, al- 85 Sauvignon (Coonawarra). More austere see page 11. most molasses-like characters on the palate along with a and lighter in weight than other Australian Cabernets touch of alcoholic warmth. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. in this price range, perhaps reflecting its coolish Coon- Andrew Peace 2009 Masterpeace Red abv: 15.5% Price: $60 awarra origins. Herb and cherry notes finish dusty and 85 Blend (South Eastern Australia). This me- crisp. Might surprise in a year or two. Pernod Ricard. dium-bodied blend of four varieties (Shiraz, Cabernet Penfolds 2007 Koonunga Hill Caber- —J.C. Sauvignon, Grenache and Mataro) features supremely 88 net Sauvignon (South Australia). This abv: 13.9% Price: $13 soft tannins, balanced by crisp acids, while the flavors wine’s tobacco and cassis notes are textbook Caber- are a slightly resiny or medicinal—but not unpleasant— net, although it stands out for its velvety tannins and Tahbilk 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon blend of mint, cedar, smoke and cherry. Drink now. rich mouthfeel. The fruit is dark, verging on date-like (Nagambie Lakes). This wine is a bit aus- T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —J.C. 85 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 or chocolaty, yet the wine retains a sense of structure tere and tough to warm up to, with dry, leafy overtones throughout the long, textured finish. Fine to drink now, encircling tangy cassis fruit like a cigar wrapper. Firm but it should last a few years if you decide to wait. Trea- and crisp on the finish; try it in another year or two—it sury Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C. PINOT NOIR might improve with short-term cellaring. Epic Wines. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 —J.C. Nugan Family Estates 2009 Vision Pinot abv: 14% Price: $19 St. Hallett 2008 Gamekeeper’s Shiraz- 87 Noir (King Valley). King Valley Pinot Noir? Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). This en- Why not, if it can be this good at this price. Gentle 88 Yellow Tail 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- try-level red from St. Hallett displays ample cedar and smoke and oak spice notes accent dark cherry and plum gnon (South Eastern Australia). A sweetly cinnamon spice, cassis and plum fruit and judicious 85 fruit, ending with hints of mocha. Tannins are a bit firm, ripe amalgam of cassis, vanilla and cedar, this medium- touches of mocha and vanilla, all framed by soft tannins so this should drink well through 2015 or so. Southern bodied Cabernet is pleasant enough, if a little lacking in and crisp, tangy acids. Drink now. Lion Nathan USA, Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. distinctiveness. It turns faintly dusty on the finish, mak- Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $13 ing it suited to pair with burgers or steak. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —J.C. Josef Chromy 2009 Pinot Noir (Tasma- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Wakefield Estate 2008 Promised Land 86 nia). Light and fresh in style, with pleasant Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon (South Aus- cherry fruit accented by delicate notes of green herbs 88 Paringa 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon tralia). For full review see page 12. and sous bois. It’s a pretty wine, quaffable even, with (South Australia). 82 Marked by bouncy, con- hints of charred oak and coffee showing up on the fin- Leeuwin Estate 2006 Art Series Cabernet fected fruit and very soft and sweet-tasting flavors, this ish. Drink now. Bob Bofman Selections. —J.C. 87 Sauvignon (Margaret River). This wine is is a disappointing effort. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $28 definitely on the herbal side, but it’s also suave and silky, abv: 14% Price: $10 with refined notes of tobacco, cedar and cassis. Medi- Jacob’s Creek 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir um bodied and elegant, even if the flavors are a touch OTHER RED BLENDS 84 (Adelaide Hills). Slightly confectionary, with green. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. cinnamon and vanilla notes alongside cherries and cara- abv: 13% Price: $45 mel. Finishes with a touch of warmth. Pernod Ricard. Heartland 2008 Stickleback (South Aus- —J.C. Peter Lehmann 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- 89 tralia). This inexpensive blend of Shiraz, Cab- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 87 gnon (Barossa). This is a Barossa wine, so ernet Sauvignon, Dolcetto and Lagrein represents a there’s a sense of warmth and sweetly ripe fruit, yet it’s tremendous value. The intensity of flavor—mint, cedar De Bortoli 2009 Deen De Bortoli Vat 10 also Cabernet, so that’s coupled with a sense of restraint and cassis—is remarkable for under $15, while the tex- 83 Pinot Noir (South Eastern Australia). and traditional cassis and cigar box notes. The tannins ture is cofee-tinged and velvety. Epicurean Wines. Best Earthy and tealike, with those attributes framed by are soft, yet the wine finishes on a tart note. Drink now. Buy. —J.C. charred, nutty oak. It’s supple enough to be balanced Hess Collection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 for immediate consumption. De Bortoli Wines USA abv: 14% Price: $16 Inc. —J.C. Peter Lehmann 2009 Layers Red Wine abv: 13% Price: $15 Rosemount 2009 Diamond Label Cab- 89 (Barossa). A gulpable blend of five varieties 86 ernet Sauvignon (South Eastern Austra- (Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, Grenache and Cari- lia). Gen Yers and Baby Boomers will remember when gnan), this is a medium-bodied wine reminiscent of SHIRAZ Rosemount’s ubiquitous Diamond Label wines repre- cherries and cedar. A bit of crispness on the finish ac- sented great value. This Cab offers slightly confected cents the otherwise lush feel. Drink now. Hess Collec- Penfolds 2004 Grange Shiraz (South cherry fruit, a whisper of mint and hints of vanilla. It’s tion. —J.C. 96 Australia). A throwback to the monster Shiraz round in the mouth without being heavy, a fresh fruity abv: 14.5% Price: $17 style of old, with loads of toasty, vanilla-laden oak, meaty

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 nuances and driving, intense boysenberry fruit, the Kilikanoon 2007 Testament Shiraz Mount Langi Ghiran 2006 Cliff Edge Shi- 2004 Grange should prove tremendously long-lived. Its 92 (Barossa Valley). Despite some slightly 91 raz (Victoria). Not only is this a great value, massive concentration and firm tannins suggest cellar- raisiny notes, this wine also displays some exotic flo- but it exhibits completely different character from many ing through 2020, after which it should drink well for ral aromas, then bold flavors of stone fruit and choco- of its competitors. It starts off smoky, then adds rasp- at least another decade or two. Foster’s Wine Estates late. It’s full bodied without seeming heavy at all, end- berry fruit and builds layers of savory complexity on top, Americas. Cellar Selection. —J.C. ing long, with savory plum and mocha shadings. Drink culminating in a finish that features crisp berry flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $500 now–2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. and tapenade. Full bodied and intense, with moderate abv: 15% Price: $40 tannins; drink now–2008. Rathbone Wine Group. Edi- Penfolds 2006 Grange Shiraz (South tors’ Choice. —J.C. 94 Australia). Not quite the massive monster that Peter Lehmann 2005 Eight Songs Shiraz abv: 14.5% Price: $20 is the 2004 Grange, the 2006 is still no shrinking violet. 92 (Barossa). This full-bodied, richly textured It’s full bodied, muscular and extracted, and while the Shiraz is ready to drink, with slightly lifted aromas of Shirvington 2008 Shiraz (McLaren Vale). flavors veer toward espresso and dark chocolate, there’s plums and baking spices and a velvety mouthfeel. Long 91 Full-bodied and creamy-textured, this is a big also a ribbon of raspberry fruit running through the and supple on the finish, it should continue to drink well (16% abv) yet beautiful example of McLaren Vale Shi- wine from start to long, dusty finish. Drink 2015–2025, through at least 2018. Hess Collection. —J.C. raz, with ample toast and vanilla from oak maturation and probably beyond. Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar abv: 14.5% Price: $38 balanced by bold raspberry fruit and plenty of meaty, Selection. —J.C. savory complexity. The long, supple finish suggests a abv: 14.5% Price: $500 Shingleback 2006 D Block Reserve Shi- drinking window from now through 2016. Quintessen- 92 raz (McLaren Vale). For the price, this full- tial Wines. —J.C. Andrew Hardy 2004 The Ox Shiraz bodied, richly textured Shiraz "overdelivers," as Aus- abv: 16% Price: $67 93 (McLaren Vale). The Hardy family history of tralians like to say. Scents of raspberries, chocolate and grape growing goes back several generations in McLar- cedar give way to a harmonious mélange of berries Tahbilk 2005 Eric Stevens Purbrick Shi- en Vale, and this wine is sourced from vines said to be and chocolate in the mouth, balanced by savory notes 91 raz (Nagambie Lakes). At six years of age, planted in 1891. It’s full bodied and lush in texture, with of black olive and coffee. Drink now–2018. Precept this wine shows finely integrated fruit and oak, with the aromas and flavors that suggest chocolate, mint, mari- Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. two merging seamlessly into shadings of cedar, meat, spice cake and leather. It’s full bodied and intense, solid- nated beef and brandied fruit. It shows a bit of alco- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 ly built; firm without being tough and crisp without be- hol, so drink it over the near term. Southern Starz, Inc. ing hard-edged. Drink now–2020. Epic Wines. —J.C. —J.C. Torbreck 2006 RunRig Shiraz-Viogni- abv: 14.5% Price: $51 abv: 15% Price: $100 92 er (Barossa Valley). For all of this wine’s warmth, it’s not overly weighty, instead delivering Wirra Wirra 2007 Woodhenge Shiraz Kilikanoon 2007 Attunga 1865 Shiraz raspberry jam flavors tinged with cracked pepper and (McLaren Vale). Full bodied, rich and creamy (Clare Valley). Named in part for the year the slightly herbal or floral notes. No sharp edges, no dry- 91 93 on the palate, this is a lush Shiraz ready for immediate vineyard was planted, this is a hugely ripe expression ing tannnins, just a mouthful of pleasure, ending with consumption. It delivers intense dark fruit flavors with of Shiraz, a thick, chocolate fudge-like wine that never- hints of espresso and dark chocolate. Drink now–2016. the merest hint of raisining, ending on a chocolaty note. theless retains some freshness along with hints of black Torbreck. —J.C. International Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $220 pepper. The texture is creamy and rich, while the finish abv: 14.5% Price: $30 is weighty and long. Drink now–2017. Old Bridge Cel- Yalumba 2006 The Octavius Shiraz lars. —J.C. Brokenwood 2008 Shiraz (McLaren Vale- abv: 14.5% Price: $235 (Barossa). As usual when young, the oak is 92 Beechworth). An interesting blend of McLar- obvious in the 2006 Octavius, reeking of smoke and 90 en Vale and Beechworth fruit, this wine likewise blends Wirra Wirra 2007 RSW Shiraz (McLaren cured meats. But there’s also balancing raspberry fruit bright berry fruit with subtly savory elements like Vale). 93 Masterfully combines savory and sweet and hints of green peppercorn. This is full bodied and smoke and leather. Tannins are soft and silky, showing elements, seamlessly blending cedar, meat and black ol- a bit tough and chewy on the finish; give it a few years a bit of creaminess on the midpalate. Drink now–2015. ive notes with dark chocolate and plum. This is a full-on, to soften and integrate. Drink 2014–2020. Negociants Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. lush and creamy Shiraz, with a long, powerful finish that USA, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 inspires sip after sip. Drink now–2020. International abv: 13.5% Price: $110 Vines, Inc. —J.C. Chocolate Box 2008 Dark Chocolate Shi- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Charles Cimicky 2006 The Autograph 90 raz (Barossa Valley). For full review see 91 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Full bodied and page 7. Greg Norman Estates 2006 Reserve Shi- impressively extracted, this is a big, meaty Shiraz, hint- 92 raz (Limestone Coast). A hugely oaky wine, ing at bacon and earth alongside dark chocolate, cola Henry’s Drive Vignerons 2008 Shiraz but one that manages to taste awfully good nonetheless, and plummy fruit. Finishes long, with dusty tannins 90 (Padthaway). A solid, potent example of Shi- with layers of vanilla and toast leading into a full-bod- framing espresso and black olive flavors. Drink now– raz, this 2008 doesn’t show any ill effects of the vintage- ied, supple wine loaded with notes of maple syrup and 2020. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. time heatwave, offering fresh, clean flavors of blueber- brown sugar. Drink now. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $46 ries, vanilla and tobacco. Tannins are firm and slightly abv: 14.5% Price: $35 dusty in style, making this a solid choice with steak or Cluster M45 2007 Shiraz (Heathcote). roasts. Drink now–2015, and possibly a few years after Kilikanoon 2007 Parable Shiraz (McLar- 91 This luxury release from Heathcote has been a that. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. 92 en Vale). For a wine with all of this ripeness steady performer over the years, and the 2007 boasts abv: 14.5% Price: $35 and concentration, this is remarkably light on its feet. the same plush, velvety texture that prior vintages have It’s a medium-bodied Shiraz with a creamy texture and shown. Prune plum and cracked pepper mark the nose, Leeuwin Estate 2007 Art Series Shiraz plenty of mocha, leather and berries, with a long, silky, followed by rich, ripe, chocolaty flavors. The only ques- 90 (Margaret River). In keeping with its Western coffee-tinged finish. Drink now–2015. Old Bridge Cel- tion will be, is it too fudge-like? Drink over the near Australian origins, this is a medium-bodied Shiraz, with- lars. —J.C. term. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. out the overbearing ripeness found from some other re- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 15% Price: $70 gions. Black cherry fruit is accented by hints of mint or

WineMag.com | 17 eucalyptus, while the tannins are silky and fine. Drink um-bodied nature. Chunky tannins suggest beef or Tahbilk 2006 Shiraz (Nagambie Lakes). it now and over the next several years. Old Bridge Cel- lamb as pairings. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 87 Fresh and lively, with bright berry fruit accent- lars. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $20 ed by hints of chocolate and cedar. This is a medium- abv: 14% Price: $35 bodied, elegantly proportioned Shiraz, with a smooth Taltarni 2007 Shiraz (Pyrenees). A decent mouthfeel and a crisp, tart-berry finish. Drink now– Penley Estate 2008 Hyland Shiraz (Coon- 88 value in Aussie Shiraz, this is a medium-bodied, 2015. Epic Wines. —J.C. 90 awarra). This is a full-bodied, reasonably lush rather restrained rendering of the grape, with dark fruit abv: 14% Price: $19 example of Coonawarra Shiraz, with hints of mint and flavors and hints of coffee, smoke, molasses and cracked pepper accenting bright berry fruit. Despite the 15% pepper. Tannins are firm, so give it another couple of Wakefield Estate 2008 Shiraz (Clare Val- abv, there’s no apparent heat, just increased volume. years and drink 2013–2018. Clos Du Val Wine/Goelet 87 ley). Supple at first, with brown sugar and Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. Wine Estates. —J.C. prune flavors that seem sweetly ripe, but this full-bod- —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $16 ied wine firms up substantially on the finish, where it abv: 15% Price: $20 turns a bit leathery in flavor and coffee-astringent. Taltarni 2006 Single Vineyard Shiraz Drink now, before the fruit fades. American Wine Dis- Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2008 Shiraz 88 (Heathcote). Strongly marked by its 16-month tributors. —J.C. 90 (McLaren Vale). For full review see page 8. stay in American oak, this is a creamy-textured, lush abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Shiraz that displays vanilla, cedar and cured-meat aro- De Bortoli 2008 Reserve Release Syrah mas, while the flavors are dark and earthy. Savory, meaty Bulletin Place 2009 Shiraz (South East- 89 (Yarra Valley). Distinctive for its potent herb, notes emerge on the supple, vanilla-laden finish. Drink 86 ern Australia). This value-priced label has olive and pepper shadings, this firm, tannic Syrah (note now–2016. Clos Du Val Wine/Goelet Wine Estates. turned out a notably successful 2009 Shiraz, combin- the spelling) stands well apart from the vast majority of —J.C. ing red currants with enough meaty, savory elements to Australian offerings made from this grape. It’s a bit aus- abv: 14% Price: $16 possess real interest. It’s medium in body and fleshy yet tere but concentrated enough to suggesting cellaring. crisp, making it very drinkable over the near term. Vine- Try after 2016. De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. Cellar Se- Water Wheel 2008 Shiraz (Bendigo). A yard Brands. Best Buy. —J.C. lection. —J.C. 88 drink-now style of Shiraz, with elevated alcohol abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $55 to provide volume and texture alongside bold mint, cas- sis and vanilla flavors and plush tannins. Southern Starz, Xavier Flouret 2009 Waroo Shiraz (Pem- Ozzie-Ba-Ru 2006 Shiraz (Hunter Valley). Inc. —J.C. 86 berton). Really appealing on the nose, with 89 Despite the sub-$20 price, don’t expect an easy, abv: 15.5% Price: $18 smoky, meaty scents that give the impression of a Shi- fruit-driven style. This is more smoky and meaty, with raz that’s savory, yet packed with fruit. But the wine is hints of vanilla, cedar and mint making for a complex, Beelgara 2008 Springview Shiraz (Clare less impressive in the mouth; it’s soft and cuddley—de- medium-bodied Shiraz. The long finish is framed gently 87 Valley). This upmarket offering from Beelg- liciously ready to drink—without anything apparent in by supple tannins, making it ready to drink now–2014. ara displays lashings of toasty oak layered over briary, reserve. Drink now. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. Ozzie-Ba-Ru International Wines Ltd. —J.C. brambly fruit. It’s medium-full in weight and features abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.7% Price: $17 a creamy texture on the midpalate, then a slightly tart finish that accentuates the wood tannins. The Yancey Yalumba 2008 Shiraz-Viognier (Eden Val- 9 Mile Road 2008 Shiraz (South Austra- Marketing Group. —J.C. 86 ley). This is the midlevel entry in Yalumba’s 88 lia). Full, thick and viscous, this is a reasonably abv: 15% Price: $39 Shiraz-Viognier range, slotting in above the Y Series but dense Shiraz at a realistic price. Black cherry notes carry below the Hand Picked. It’s a medium-bodied, slightly a hint of raisining, but also rich chocolaty goodness and Kilikanoon 2008 The Lackey Shiraz creamy-textured wine, with prominent green olive and lingering mocha on the finish. Drink now. American Es- 87 (South Australia). The 2008 vintage was a peppercorn nuances to its plummy flavors. It fades a lit- tates Wines, Inc. —J.C. tough one at Kilikanoon according to winemaker Kev- tle on the finish, so drink now–2013. Negociants USA, abv: 13.9% Price: $15 in Mitchell, but this second label has turned out well. Inc. —J.C. It’s full-bodied and richly textured, with notes of tar and abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Groom 2008 Shiraz (Barossa). Dark-choc- black olive up front, turning warm and slightly raisiny 88 olaty in style, with intriguing notes of mint, bas- on the finish and marked with a touch of bitter coffee. Yellow Tail 2009 Reserve Shiraz (South kets of ripe blackberries and some annoying hints of Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 86 Eastern Australia). Bold and jammy in style, hay or alfalfa. It’s medium-full in body and extremely abv: 14.5% Price: $15 with intense dark berry fruit and some peppery, leafy supple, making it a very drink-me-now sort of pleasure. notes. Tannins are supple, while crisp acids mark the LisaLisa Inc. —J.C. Madison Ridge 2009 Lot 466 Shiraz (New finish. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —J.C. abv: 14.9% Price: $38 87 South Wales). In the context of Australian abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Shiraz, this is on the lighter end of the spectrum at un- Nugan Family Estates 2009 Vision Shiraz der 14% abv. The tannins are supple and the fruit plum- Gosford 2009 Reserve Shiraz (South 88 (Riverina). This medium-bodied Shiraz comes my, savory and spicy, making it a good buy for current 85 Eastern Australia). A medium-bodied Shiraz swathed in a big overcoat of toasty oak, but avoids any consumption. A.W. Direct. Best Buy. —J.C. suited to everyday drinking, with cherry-berry fruit ac- harsh tannins, instead balancing tart red-berry fruit with abv: 13.9% Price: $10 cented by hints of leather and smoke. It’s a fresh, easy oak spice while remaining silky-textured from start to quaff to match with burgers or pizza. A.W. Direct. Best finish. Drink up over the next few years. Southern Starz, Morambro Creek 2008 Shiraz (Padtha- Buy. —J.C. Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. 87 way). Solid, workmanlike Shiraz, offering a abv: 13.9% Price: $8 abv: 14% Price: $12 mélange of caramelized berries, tobacco and cassis. Seems warm but at the same time slightly austere, mak- Oxford Landing 2009 Shiraz (South Aus- Plantagenet 2007 Omrah Shiraz (West- ing it a good candidate to partner grilled steak. Drink 85 tralia). Bright berry fruit is jammy and simply 88 ern Australia). If not for some distractingly now. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. fruity, but clean and soft. Drink this medium-bodied, garlicky notes, this wine would have scored higher, as abv: 14.5% Price: $20 supple Shiraz over the next year or so. Negociants USA, it displays bright, crisply defined cherry fruit, complex Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. mocha and fudge shadings and a food-friendly, medi- abv: 13.5% Price: $10

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 R Wines 2008 Strong Arms Shiraz (South palate is almost syrupy in feel, with sugary flavors of to cheesy. The palate has some jump in it, but the fla- 85 Australia). An easy-to-drink, burger and piz- baked pear, apple and butterscotch. Finishes weighty vors are generic and sweet, suggesting mealy citrus and za sort of Shiraz, with slightly uneven notes of ripe and and heavy; almost like a late-harvest wine. Drink imme- banana. A rudimentary wine with a gimmicky name. raisined fruit and soft acids and tannins. The Grateful diately. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S. Palate. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 15% Price: $10 Añoro 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Septima 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Angove’s 2008 Red Belly Black Shiraz 86 Opens with mellow peach and melon aromas 82 Heavy and oily smelling, and a bit mealy, too. 84 (South Australia). A lean, streamlined ver- and some oak. The palate is round, creamy and full, but The palate is o.k. in feel; but it’s vapid and pithy tasting, sion of Aussie Shiraz, with leathery notes of dried cur- hollow in the center. Tastes of spiced, dried apple with with bitterness to the finish. Underwhelming. Aveniù rants that finish firm and crisp. Trinchero Family Es- a stalky, pithy accent. Easy and basic on the finish, and Brands, Inc. —M.S. tates. —J.C. overall it’s pricey for what’s in the bottle. Vine Connec- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $11 tions. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Queensgate 2009 Shiraz (South Eastern SAUVIGNON BLANC 84 Australia). This is a light- to medium-bodied Espiritu de Argentina 2010 Chardonnay Shiraz with a bright profile of juicy red berries and just 85 (Mendoza). After a slightly murky start the Michel Torino 2010 Ciclos Fume Sauvi- a hint of chocolate, turning rather crisp on the finish. nose settles on basic apple and sweet oak. The palate 86 gnon Blanc (Salta). Round, floral and sweet Drink now. Winery Exchange. Best Buy. —J.C. is full, with citrusy acidity and chunky flavors of melon smelling, with citrusy acidity that pushes up passion abv: 14% Price: $8 and orange. Maintains focus on the finish, with lychee fruit, orange and lemon flavors. There’s weight and and lime flavors pushing it towards tropical. Drink now. body come finishing time, and the overall impression is Andrew Peace 2009 Masterpeace Shi- Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. that of a tropical, dense white wine with some creami- 83 raz (South Eastern Australia). This light- to abv: 13% Price: $10 ness. Priced high for what you get. Frederick Wildman medium-bodied Shiraz is crisp and tart, yet also shows & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. some dried-fruit character on the finish. T.G.I.C. Im- Luca 2009 G Lot Chardonnay (Tupun- abv: 13% Price: $27 porters. —J.C. 85 gato). A resiny, oily nose is barrel heavy and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 a strong clue of what’s to come. The palate has a thick, Portillo 2010 Estate Bottled Sauvignon syrupy feel and sweet, almost sugary flavors of pear and 85 Blanc (Uco Valley). Citrus and peach aro- De Bortoli 2008 DB Family Selection Shi- melon. By the time it’s wrapping up, the wine veers to- mas are basic but clean. The palate starts out fresh and 83 raz (South Eastern Australia). Herbal and wards cloying. Has its virtues but it’s entirely too sweet easy before losing some steam, but along the way there’s green peppercornish, with dark berry flavors and herb- in this critic’s opinion. Vine Connections. —M.S. peach, green apple and dry melon flavors. Good for a al-vegetal notes. Light and crisp; complex for the price. abv: 14% Price: $32 simple, tropical-style white wine. Palm Bay Internation- De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C. al. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $9 Portillo 2010 Estate Bottled Chardonnay abv: 13.5% Price: $10 84 (Uco Valley). Light and mostly neutral smell- Paringa 2009 Shiraz (South Australia). ing, with a hint of pear and apple. The palate is zesty, Valentin Bianchi 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 82 Very sweet and soft, with mocha notes punctu- lean and well cut, however the flavors are more pithy 84 (Mendoza). Neutral on the nose, with a touch ated by brighter berry flavors that come across as nearly and bitter, with orange and nectarine notes. Finishes of white fruit essence peeking through. The palate is cloying on the finish. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. hot and peppery. Palm Bay International. —M.S. easygoing and slightly lemony, with lemon-lime fla- abv: 14.6% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $10 vors and tropical overtones. Finishes sweet and bland. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Proemio 2009 Chardonnay (Mendoza). abv: 13% Price: $13 ARGENTINE WHITES 84 Light, lemony aromas come with a hint of but- tercup. The palate is basic, wet and juicy, with average Pulenta Estate 2010 VI Sauvignon Blanc CHARDONNAY citrus and apple flavors. Finishes solid and mostly fresh, 81 (Luján de Cuyo). Smells murky and sweaty, with generic sweet apple and melon notes along with with corn and wheat aromas in addition to strained cit- Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Catena some weight. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.S. rus. The palate is chunky, with acrid flavors that un- 88 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Toasty right from abv: 13.5% Price: $12 derwhelm. Finishes sulphuric, green and weedy. Paul the start, with a good application of barrel aromas mixed Hobbs Wines. —M.S. with apple and butterscotch. The palate is both creamy Tilia 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Opens abv: 12.5% Price: $16 and vital due to core acidity, while the flavors run tropi- 84 with oily, hard aromas of peanut brittle and res- cal, sweet, citrusy and resiny. Keeps its zing on the fin- in. After it airs out, it’s lively in the mouth and grabby, ish, which tastes sweet and ripe. Winebow. —M.S. with resiny, bitter notes mixing with core citrus flavors. TORRONTÉS abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Zesty but pithy on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Doña Paula 2010 Estate Torrontés (Sal- DiamAndes 2010 Chardonnay (Uco Val- 87 ta). Orange blossom, nectarine and almond 87 ley). Toasty apple aromas are familiar and ge- Zuccardi 2010 Q Chardonnay (Mendo- skin aromas are true to the grape and inviting. The pal- neric. It’s full in the mouth, with an oak-based resiny 84 za). Resiny oak is front and center on the nose, ate maintains a light, juicy, citric feel as it delivers flavors grab and woody flavors of banana, pear and baked ap- turning any and all fruit spicy. The palate is wet and ba- of melon, apple and banana. Fresh and forward, with a ple. A lot of woodspice lingers on the creamy finish, sic, with a woody feel and oaky flavors that include spic- hint of heat and bitterness to the finish. Southern Wine which is slightly bitter in taste. Dourthe USA. —M.S. es and white fruits. Offers proper weight but smells and and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 tastes overtly resiny. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Monteviejo 2009 Lindaflor Chardonnay François Lurton 2010 Torrontés (Uco Val- 87 (Mendoza). Yellow in color, with baked corn, Arge & Tina 2009 Chardonnay (San 86 ley). Light and somewhat neutral smelling, heavy oak and implied sweetness on the bouquet. The 83 Juan). Sweet melon and apple aromas fall off with peach and pool water aromas. It’s fresh, tangy and

WineMag.com | 19 light on its feet, with citrus, melon and mild pithy fla- The palate runs narrow and tight, with sharp acidity and Gauchezco 2010 Malbec Rosé (Mendo- vors. Finishes similar, with lasting freshness, mild bit- stalky flavors of lemon, green apple and lime. Finishes 84 za). Funky smelling, with a mix of sweat, hot ter notes and varietal correctness. Vintus LLC. —M.S. fresh and cutting, with controlled pithiness. 70% Char- summer field and leather. It’s more fresh in the mouth, abv: 12.5% Price: $13 donnay and 30% SB. Vias Imports. —M.S. with adequate acidity and stalky, slightly minty fla- abv: 13% Price: $11 vors mixed with mild berry notes. Finishes bland. Cel- Tilia 2010 Torrontés (Salta). A simple, clean larthief, LLC. —M.S. 86 bouquet of white and tropical fruit is as it should Zuccardi 2010 Serie A Chardonnay- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 be. The palate has an oily texture and textbook flavors 85 Viognier (Mendoza). Sulphuric at first, with of mango, pineapple and melon. Slightly oily feeling citrus and air freshener aromas. The palate has a cer- Caligiore 2010 Pianissimo Rosé (Men- on the finish as well. Good for a simple, tropical warm- tain roundness and fleshy quality, while the flavors are 83 doza). Heavy and stalky smelling, with burnt weather quaffer. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. sweet, melony and a little oily. Some almond-skin bitter- aromas. The leaden palate is weighty and short on fresh- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 ness rises up late, most likely reflecting the 25% Viog- ness; tastes pithy and stalky, with some nectarine and nier in the blend. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. plum thrown in. Seems to be fading. Marquee Selec- Espiritu de Argentina 2010 Torrontés abv: 14% Price: $15 tions. —M.S. 81 (Mendoza). Bitter orange and Fantastik clean- abv: 13% Price: $10 er aromas are not what you’d call lithe and welcoming. Finca El Origen 2010 Reserva Viognier Spritzy and jumpy on the palate, with mealy orange and 84 (Uco Valley). Starts out volatile, with a burn- juniper flavors. Finishes pickled, with a tangy grapefruit ing sensation to the nose. After settling, the palate ARGENTINE REDS carryover. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. shows heat along with baked apple, melon and bitter- abv: 13% Price: $10 ness. Finishes solid but pithy, with some leftover heat. MALBEC Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $12 Bodega Renacer 2008 Renacer R Malbec OTHER WHITE WINES 92 (Mendoza). Dense blackberry fruit reigns su- Montepio 2010 Pinot Gris (San Juan). Sa- preme on the nose, with smoke and dark, earthy notes La Posta 2010 Cocina Blanco (Mendo- 83 linic and minerally on the nose, with a hint of lying in wait. The palate has a firm tightness and oaky 88 za). A natural type of blended white with va- peach. The palate is wet and light, however the flavors black-fruit flavors that offer a twinge of coconut and nilla, powdered sugar, peach, pear and citrus on the run stalky and tart, with green banana and bitterness herbs. Toasty and chocolaty on the finish. A big, stacked bouquet. The palate is fresh and zesty, with apple, cit- leading to a chalky finish. Quaffable. Hand Picked Se- Malbec to drink now through 2013. Winebow. —M.S. rus and peach flavors, and no oak, resin or toast foisted lections. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $65 into the glass. Nicely focused throughout, with a good abv: 13% Price: $13 mouthfeel. Chardonnay with 15% each of Sauvignon Nieto Senetiner 2009 Terroir Blend Mal- Blanc and Torrontés. Vine Connections. —M.S. 92 bec (Mendoza). For full review see page 6. abv: 13.7% Price: $15 DESSERT WINES Riglos 2008 Gran Malbec (Mendoza). For Luigi Bosca 2010 Finca La Linda Viognier Familia Marguery 2008 Historias Passi- 92 full review see page 6. 87 (Luján de Cuyo). Minerally and dry smelling, 87 to de los Andes Muscat (Mendoza). A bit with floral aromas along with the scents of white peach shocking and overpowering initially, with pull-back ear- Trivento 2008 Eolo Malbec (Luján de and apple. The palate feels good and clean, with round- ly aromas and alcohol-related burn. Give it time and it 92 Cuyo). Eolo is apparently on the upswing in ness matched by nice acidity. Flavors of spiced apple displays itself as a full, ripe, complex wine with heavy ex- just its 3rd incarnation. The nose is deep and sweet, and pith are supported by zestiness, while the finish traction and ripe peach, apricot and bitter flavors. Tof- with licorice, rubber, lemon peel and tobacco to go with is honest. Not many value-priced Viogniers can match fee and caramel lead the spicy, still-bitter finish. South- bold berry aromas. Shows immensity and structure in this. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S. ern Wine Group. —M.S. the mouth, with layered blackberry flavors and creami- abv: 14.2% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $25/500 ml ness. Fades well, with tobacco and leather gracing the finish. Drink now through 2014. Banfi Vintners.Edi - Mendel 2010 Sémillon (Mendoza). A chal- Palo Alto 2010 Coiron Late Harvest Char- tors’ Choice. —M.S. 87 lenging white wine that bears a resemblance to 80 donnay (Maipú). Chunky, unfocused aromas abv: 15.5% Price: $79 Bordeaux Sémillon. The nose starts out sweaty and with tell you almost all you need to know. The wine is edgy phosphorous, but it turns more honeyed and complex and cidery, with mustard and pickled flavors. Stalky and Bodega Renacer 2008 Punto Final Reser- with airing. The palate is plump and balanced, with lay- jumbled on the finish. Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. 91 va Malbec (Perdriel). A rich Malbec with ered honey, melon, apple and pith flavors. By the time abv: 12.5% Price: $12/500 ml graham cracker, pastry, blackberrry and boysenberry it finishes up, it’s showing complexity, butterscotch and aromas. Talk about super concentrated; this is thick but white pepper notes. Interesting but not for all. Vine balanced, with tannic grip and dark, baked flavors of Connections. —M.S. ROSÉS berry and chocolate. Bulky on the finish, with peppery abv: 13.6% Price: $25 spice, vanilla and a touch of heat. Winebow. —M.S. Dominio del Plata 2011 Crios Rosé of abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Callia 2010 Pinot Grigio (Tulum Valley). 87 Malbec (Mendoza). Shiny pink in color, with 86 Round and floral, with melon and other simple, youthful, crisp aromas of cherry and watermelon. Zesty Finca El Origen 2009 El Origen Gran clean aromas. Good mouthfeel, proper acidity and ba- and fresh on the tongue, with spunky cherry and rasp- 91 Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). For full re- sic, likable flavors of citrus, green apple, green banana berry flavors that finish with natural sweetness. Candied view see page 6. and tropical fruits make it a good quaffer and a good to an extent, but mostly it’s fresh and balanced. Vine value. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. Connections. Best Buy. —M.S. Gauchezco 2009 Plata Malbec (Mendo- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 14% Price: $12 91 za). For full review see page 6.

Benegas 2010 Clara Benegas Chardon- Finca El Origen 2010 Malbec Rosé (Men- Martino 2009 Old Vine Malbec (Mendo- 85 nay-Sauvignon (Mendoza). Muddled apple 86 doza). For full review see page 13. 91 za). A winning Malbec for under $20. The nose and spice aromas are o.k. and improve with familiarity. is pure and hits with a blast of licorice, tobacco, cola,

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 blackberry and dry balsam wood. The palate is driving, mouth, with smacking tannins and just enough cushion Valentin Bianchi 2008 Particular Malbec with blackberry, black plum and pepper flavors. Potent to soften things up. Minty and woody tasting, with berry, 89 (San Rafael). Attractive and not overpower- but balanced on the way out. Drink now and over the tobacco and peppery flavors on the palate and finish. ing on the bouquet, with plum and red berry aromas next couple of years. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. Delectatio Wines. —M.S. mixing with smoky rubber and floral hints. The acidity, abv: 14% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 however, is piercing and racy, creating angularity on the palate along with red plum, raspberry, vanilla and coco- Mendel 2009 Lunta Malbec (Mendoza). Bodega Catena Zapata 2009 Catena Mal- nut flavors. A fiery, pointy Malbec with very nice flavors 91 Big, woody and pure, with attractive plum and 89 bec (Mendoza). Smoky but also sort of salinic and length. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. berry aromas that bring earth and toast. The mouth is on the nose, with pumped-up berry and black currant abv: 14.1% Price: $30 alert and features textured tannins, while the flavor pro- aromas. The palate is chewy and a bit heavy, with dark file is a bit rooty and sweet, with roasted black fruit and berry, cassis and peppery flavors. Heavy, sultry and black Alamos 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). For full spice. Grabby, warm and stout on the finish. Vine Con- on the finish, with a lasting syrupy sweetness. Should be 88 review see page 11. nections. —M.S. appealing to most Malbec fans. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Finca 8 2008 Reserva Malbec (Uco Val- 88 ley). Blueberry, spice, sandalwood and foresty Pulenta Estate 2008 Gran Malbec (Luján Domiciano de Barrancas 2008 Cosecha aromas are the good elements; funky, foxy additions not 91 de Cuyo). Tight and deep, with leather, dried 89 Nocturna Malbec (Mendoza). Gritty on the so much. The palate sports a raw, scratchy feel with hard cheese and full berry aromas. The palate is jammy and greeting, with char, plum, berry and juniper aromas. tannins that go with strawberry, plum and vanilla fla- lush in feel, with roasted, mile-deep berry and licorice The palate is full-bodied, with nice raspberry, plum and vors. Tastes and feels lactic on the finish, with a snappy flavors. A fine Malbec that’s easy to drink and black in spice flavors. Good and easy as it unfolds on the finish. offset. Good Malbec but it struggles to achieve harmony style; the finish runs long and solid as berry fruit and Well-mannered and juicy, with a notch or two of com- and total balance. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. toasty oak hold court. Drink now through 2013. Paul plexity. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.1% Price: $45 Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Finca Perdriel 2008 Colección Malbec Finca El Origen 2010 Reserva Malbec 88 (Mendoza). Smoky, savory and fairly dense on Sottano 2008 Judas Malbec (Mendo- 89 (Uco Valley).For full review see page 10. the bouquet, with blackberry and a bit of earthy funk 91 za). Opens like a luxury-level Malbec should; to it. Lush, jammy and chewy in the mouth, with baked it’s dark and dense, with black cherry, smoke and rub- Finca La Anita 2010 Tonada Malbec blackberry, pepper, baking spice and other earthy fla- bery aromas. The palate is deep and juicy, with bold, vors. Registers as a chunky, saturated and ripe wine with (Mendoza). Attractive berry and dried fig aro- attractive black fruit, plum, tobacco and vanilla flavors. 89 weight to spare. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. mas are rich and healthy. The pretty bouquet is backed Smooth, healthy and drinkable now. Well-Oiled Wine abv: 14.5% Price: $20 by bright, juicy blackberry flavors that come with a spicy Company. —M.S. backing. Lightly toasted and smooth on the finish; over- abv: 15.3% Price: $90 Kaiken 2009 Ultra Malbec (Mendoza). all this is uncomplicated Malbec that hits the spot. San The first impression is all about raisin and Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. 88 Cruz Andina 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). A prune, aromas that suggest overripeness. Despite that abv: 13.6% Price: $20 90 full-force Malbec with classy black fruit, rub- sweetness, the palate is deep, saturated and layered, ber, cassis and balsamic aromas. The palate sports a nice with dark berry and raisin flavors along with fig, spice Gauchezco 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). For mouthfeel, fine balance and tasty flavors of herbs, black- and chocolate. Very rich and softly built; best if you like full review see page 9. berry, roasted plum and chocolate. Elegant but strong, 89 sweeter, richer reds. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers. with layering and a lot of qualities for a $20 wine. —M.S. Gouguenheim Winery 2008 Reserva Mal- Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $20 89 bec (Mendoza). Round, earthy and full, with leather, spice and several other good things floating Kirkland Signature 2009 Malbec (Mendo- Ricominciare 2008 Altísimo Malbec (Uco about the nose. The palate has a crisp and zesty feel, 88 za). For full review see page 11. 90 Valley). An exotic style of Malbec with Mid- with bright plum and berry flavors accented by spice, dle Eastern spice, violet, anise and berry aromas. The herb and a touch of buttery oak. Solid, tight and stylish Sottano 2008 Reserva Malbec (Mendo- palate has hammering tannins but enough body to ab- for the price. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 za). Roasted and rubbery on first take, with aro- sorb it, leaving herbal black fruit, fig and peppery fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 mas of leather, beefy blackberry and a pinch of herbal vors. Warm and toasty on the finish, with savory notes juniper and sharpness. The palate is racy and flows well, that last for a good long while. The Artisan Collection. Lagarde 2008 Primeras Viñas Malbec with lightly herbal flavors of red plum, raspberry and —M.S. 89 (Mendoza). Floral berry aromas bring prune leather. Long on the finish, with a juicy feel. Well-Oiled abv: 14% Price: $30 and tree bark as well. The palate is warm but not over- Wine Company. —M.S. extracted, while the flavors of red plum, dry herbs, berry abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Susana Balbo 2009 Signature Malbec and resiny vanilla turn lemony on the back end. Juicy, 90 (Mendoza). Heavily charred and roasted perky and herbal on the finish, with some heat. Well- Zuccardi 2010 Serie A Malbec (Mendo- throughout, with a blackened nose. The palate is broad Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. 88 za). Full and dark from the beginning, with and chewy, with thick tannins and roasted, ripe flavors abv: 14.9% Price: $49 black plum, floral notes and a clean overall presenta- of blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Remains se- tion. It’s full, zesty and has proper mouthfeel, while the verely toasted all the way to the final drop; aged in 80% Tikal 2009 Amorío Malbec (Mendoza). A flavors of berry, toast and herbs are honest and gener- new French oak (apparently fully toasted oak). Vine 89 savory bouquet includes aromas of chocolate, ous. Stylish on the finish; nice Malbec. Winesellers Ltd. Connections. —M.S. smoke, blackberry and earthy plum. The palate shows —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 grip and a syrupy density, while the flavors run towards abv: 14.5% Price: $15 candied black fruits, leather and savory spice. Very ripe Zorzal 2008 Climax Malbec (Tupungato). and a bit soft and sweet. Drink now through 2013. Vine Carlos Basso 2010 Dos Fincas Malbec 90 Berry fruit aromas blend nicely with cola, for- Connections. —M.S. 87 (Uco Valley). Rubbery and gaseous at first, but est, toast and barrel aromas. It’s crisp yet deep in the abv: NA Price: $33 with time weighty, meaty black fruit aromas come out.

WineMag.com | 21 The wine carries a rich, syrupy mouthfeel and dense, Callia 2010 Alta Malbec (Tulum Valley). the feel a little hard. Flavors of standard red berry are dark flavors of blackberry and pepper. Chunky on the 86 For full review see page 13. sweet but undistinguished. Good but regular. Mistica finish, which is thick in feel but short in length. South- Wines LLC. —M.S. ern Wine Group. —M.S. La Posta 2009 Angel Paulucci Vineyard abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $13 86 Malbec (Mendoza). Lemony and strange at first, with gamy notes, leather and incense. The palate Toneles del Sur 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Dominio del Plata 2010 Crios Malbec feels chunky and medicinal, with herbal, sweet, jumbled 85 Jammy and reduced on the nose, with medicinal 87 (Mendoza). Full, dark and smoky on the nose, flavors of candied blackberry. Finishes flat and quick, red berry and plum aromas. The palate is high in acid- then juicy, tight and well built on the palate. Tastes leaving medicinal sweetness. Vine Connections. —M.S. ity, with a mix of herbal berry, roasted plum and leath- good, with fast-moving black fruit and chocolate flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ery, earthy flavors. Sheer on the finish, where the acidity fading quickly into a clean, moderate finish. Lively and and tannic bite are forceful. Wine Brindis Importers. tight for Malbec. Vine Connections. —M.S. Michel Torino 2009 Don David Finca La —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $15 86 Maravilla #6 Malbec (Cafayate). A bit abv: 13.8% Price: $16 grassy and green, with good power, herbal black fruit Luca 2009 Malbec (Uco Valley). Thick aromas, spice and cola. The palate is very high in acid- Zorzal 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Hard, 87 and concentrated aromas feature barrel-driv- ity, which at first creates a sheering sharpness and tart 85 roasted and rubbery aromas suggest compost en toast, lemon peel and savory berry. It’s rather flat, plum flavors. With more airing it grows rounder and and autumn leaves. The palate is tight and layered, but sweet and jammy in the mouth, with buttery berry fruit more complex, but overall it’s exacting, odd and funky. tannic, with black fruit flavors, heavy spice notes and and then a sugary candy flavor. Very sweet and soft on Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. herbal leanings. Finishes with leafy notes, licorice and the finish; needs more edge, spine, acidity and clarity to abv: 13.5% Price: $20 bitterness. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S. rank higher. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $32 Notro 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). A bit raw 86 and hot on the nose, with wild berry aromas Bodega del Fin del Mundo 2010 Postales Menduco 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco Val- and some fiery horseradish before it rounds into form. 84 Malbec (Neuquén). A bit stalky to begin with; 87 ley). For full review see page 12. The palate has a good, regular feel and crisp plum and there’s tobacco, herbs and generic berry aromas that red cherry flavors. Fruity and fresh, but limited. Hand turn raisiny upon airing. The palate is definitely on the Salentein 2009 Killka Collection Malbec Picked Selections. —M.S. raisiny side, and thus it’s sweet, a bit flat and ultimately 87 (Uco Valley). Sweet and floral smelling, with abv: 13.5% Price: $13 tastes and feels slightly overripe. Gaucho Imports, LLC. jammy berry fruit pouring out of the bouquet. There’s —M.S. snap and lift to the mouthfeel along with rubbery berry, Tercos 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Woodsy, abv: 14% Price: $11 plum, chocolate and herbal flavors. Tight and grippy on 86 spicy aromas form a solid opening. There’s ad- the finish, which has an herbal tinge. Palm Bay Interna- equate acidity on the palate along with raspberry, red Don Cristobal 1492 2010 Finca La Niña tional. —M.S. plum and mild herbal notes. Racy, spicy and just toasty 84 Malbec (Mendoza). Stalky aromas suggest abv: 14% Price: $14 enough to rate well across the finish. Global Vineyard hay and green herbs, with raspberry in the backdrop. Importers. —M.S. It’s hot and short in terms of mouthfeel, with herbal fla- Santa Julia 2010 Reserva Malbec (Men- abv: 13.8% Price: $12 vors leading the way and berry fruit running behind. 87 doza). For full review see page 13. Dry red fruit and herbal notes dominate the finish. Ea- Tomero 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). A touch gle Eye Imports. —M.S. Sottano 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Opens 86 raw and rough on the bouquet, with rubbery abv: 14% Price: $10 87 with burnt rubber aromas that soon yield to ber- berry aromas and earth notes that suggest compost. The ry fruit, char and dark chocolate. The palate is snappy palate is thick but shows angular tannins, while the fla- Espuela del Gaucho 2010 Malbec (Men- and tangy despite feeling full, while the flavors of herbs vors are oaky and creamy, with basic berry and plum in- 84 doza). Light berry aromas mix with brine, and berry are quickly replaced by resiny oak. Finish- termixed. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. cumin and sweet spice on the nose. In the mouth, it’s es firm, with herbal notes and carob. Well-Oiled Wine abv: 14.5% Price: $15 rather lean and juicy, with sharp acidity creating fresh Company. —M.S. red berry flavors and tang. Turns more piercing and cit- abv: 14.3% Price: $17 Argana 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Sweet rusy the longer it airs out. Winery Exchange. —M.S. 85 and jammy on the nose, then clampy and grab- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Tilia 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Crisp and by on the palate, with woody, tight-grained flavors of 87 a little minty smelling, with wild berry and dry pepper and clove. Turns more narrow and even more Matias Bertona Wines 2008 Inspiratto spice as the primary aromas. It’s thick and chunky but clove-dominated on the finish. Has its merits and good 84 Malbec (Mendoza). Hot and spicy on the well balanced, with sweet, slightly medicinal flavors of structure, but the fruit is blanketed by forceful clove nose, with red pepper flake and floral red berry aromas. black fruits and mint. Solid and smooth on the finish. and hickory flavors. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.S. The palate is quite sharp and sheering, with raspberry, Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $12 red plum and medicinal flavors. Hard and hot on the abv: 13.5% Price: $10 finish, with tangy acids and prevailing juiciness. Wine Coiron 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Roasted Brindis Importers. —M.S. Valentin Bianchi 2010 Elsa Bianchi Mal- 85 and brambly on the nose, with lemon, burnt abv: 13.8% Price: $16 87 bec (Mendoza). For full review see page 13. notes and spice more than bold berry fruit. The palate has a tight, rubbery feel and flavors of hickory, clove and Mendel 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Clipped Bodegas Caro 2010 Aruma Malbec (Men- mild red berry. A decent but standard and slightly oaky 84 and pruney smelling, with condensed, dull aro- 86 doza). Big, thick and herbal on the nose, with Malbec. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. mas. The palate is soft and mealy, with big tannins, heft initial funk that suggests sweaty leather. The palate feels abv: 13.5% Price: $11 and prune-like flavors. Never really finds solid ground heavy and extracted, with herbal blueberry and black- or footing; substandard for Mendel. Vine Connections. berry flavors. Stays leathery and herbal through the fin- Tempus Alba 2009 8 mo in 70% Fr and —M.S. ish. A new lower-priced wine from Bodegas Caro. Pas- 85 30% US oak Malbec (Mendoza). Generic abv: 13.9% Price: $30 ternak Wine Imports. —M.S. red berry aromas show a stalky element as well. The pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $16 ate is juicy and acidic, with a pointed quality that makes

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Michel Torino 2009 Don David Reserve vors and a soft, mushy finish. Lacks balance. Evaki Inc. burnt character to the plum-packed palate. Bitter and 84 Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). A disjointed, —M.S. peppery on the finish. Eco Valley. —M.S. out-of-the-box Malbec that starts out peanutty and abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 earthy on the nose. Things round out aromatically, but in the mouth it’s angular and edgy, with stunted black- Funky Llama 2010 Shiraz (Mendoza). berry flavors offset by tartness. Has its positives but PINOT NOIR 81 Smells muddled, like a mix of spiced ground overall it doesn’t fully click. Frederick Wildman & Sons, beef and dusty earth. Cutting and citrusy on the palate, Ltd. —M.S. Finca Don Carlos 2010 Calathus Roble with pie cherry and sour plum flavors. Gritty and tart abv: 13.9% Price: $16 87 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Rubbery and smoky on the finish as well. Tastings Import Company. —M.S. at first, with earthy, leathery aromas. Snappy, crisp and abv: 13% Price: $7 Noble Aconcagua 2009 Malbec (Mendo- juicy in the mouth, with honest PN flavors of light red 84 za). Scratchy, generic red berry aromas are the fruits, toast and oak-based spice and chocolate. Dry, Finca El Origen 2010 Syrah (Mendoza). opening. The palate runs narrow and tight, with clacky clean and a bit hot on the finish. Hand Picked Selec- 80 Rubbery on the nose, then sharp in the mouth, red berry flavors followed by a sugary sweetness. Can- tions. —M.S. with herbal, sour plum flavors and weird funk as well. died and sweet on the finish before mild bitterness sets abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Bitter, tart and hard on the finish. Carolina Wine Brands in. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S. USA. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $14 Rutini 2010 Trumpeter Pinot Noir (Men- abv: 14% Price: $8 87 doza). Dry, spicy aromas work well with core VinEcol 2010 Made With Organic Grapes raspberry and earthy notes. The palate has a healthy Tierras de Ponte 2010 Syrah (San Juan). 84 Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with jammy aro- mouthfeel and honest flavors of brown sugar, toast and 80 Cherry cough drop and clove spice carry the mas but it’s also stewed and stalky. The palate is resiny black cherry. Spice and tempered caramel flavors grace nose. Expect a hard, sharp, high-pitched wine that’s and tannic, which means it’s grabby. Tastes a bit leafy the finish, which has vigor and confirms the value fac- sour and citrusy. Tart and lean Syrah. Atlanta Improve- and burnt, with spiced, roasted red plum flavors. Offers tor and overall quality. Pasternak Wine Imports. Best ment Co. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14 mostly oak spice and heat on the finish. Mistica Wines Buy. —M.S. LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $13 BONARDA Don Rodolfo 2010 High Altitude Vine- Caligiore 2008 Organic Legacy Old Vines yards Pinot Noir (Cafayate). A touch stem- Malbec (Mendoza). Sweet and syrupy smell- 85 Zuccardi 2009 Emma Bonarda (Mendo- 83 my and cooked smelling, with Cafayate’s patented herb- ing, with maple-covered doughnut and muddled spice za). For full review see page 8. al notes. The palate has a regular feel and briary, herbal 90 and tree bark aromas. The palate is more cutting and flavors of pepper, tobacco and red berry fruit. Spicy and acidic than expected, with a sheer mouthfeel and heavy Viejo Isaias 2010 Clásico Bonarda (Men- warm on the finish, but good in a competent way. Cab- vanilla and oak flavors covering up underdeveloped red doza). Robust berry and plum aromas come ernet Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 fruit notes. Hard, crisp and tannic stuff. Marquee Selec- with ample toast and spice. The palate has a crisp, fo- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 tions. —M.S. cused feel and kicking black fruit and berry flavors. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Finishes bright, solid and toasty, with a controlled cof- Funky Llama 2010 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). fee-like bitterness. Very nice wine; only 200 cases pro- Mildly stemmy and rubbery on the nose, then Gardel 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Candied 84 duced. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. 83 and green on the nose, with odd spice scents. grabby and chalky on the palate, with herbal, jumbled abv: 13.8% Price: $16 The palate is lean in weight and hollow in the mid- red fruit and earthy flavors. Dry, short and juicy on the dle, with simple red fruit, cough drop and caramel fla- finish, which is solid and average in length. Tastings Im- Zuccardi 2010 Serie A Bonarda (Mendo- vors. Finishes basic and short. Frontier Wine Imports. port Company. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 za). A thick-styled Bonarda with honest berry —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $7 and peppery spice aromas. It’s borderline syrupy in feel, abv: 13.3% Price: $12 with a streak of acidity to keep it balanced. Flavors of Nieto Senetiner 2010 Reserva Pinot Noir plum, wild berry and currant lean towards red, while Pasaje Alto 2010 Andes Crossing Malbec 84 (Mendoza). Hard cherry and spice aromas are the finish is long and strong, albeit sticky and weighty. 83 (Mendoza). Smells earthy and leathery, with a varietally correct, while the palate is standard in feel, Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. grilled meat element to the nose. The palate runs sharp with toasty, creamy flavors of sweet berry. Has enough abv: 14% Price: $15 and high in acid, with narrow plum flavors. Doesn’t of- acidity and vibrancy to rank as juicy on the finish. fer a whole lot on the finish. More rubbery and tart than Winebow. —M.S. Nieto Senetiner 2010 Reserva Bonarda ideal. Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $11 87 (Mendoza). For full review see page 12. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 SYRAH/SHIRAZ La Posta 2009 Estela Armando Vineyard Familia Marguery 2010 Casa Marguery 85 Bonarda (Mendoza). Blueberry and other 81 Malbec (Mendoza). Briary, herbal plum and sweet berry aromas are flowery but not very staunch or berry aromas come with a leafy, tomato side. Look for a Argana 2010 Syrah (Mendoza). Scratchy, dark. The palate has a high acidity level and a scouring hard and clacky mouthfeel with herbal, leafy flavors of 82 reedy raspberry aromas set up an edgy, tight feel to go with tart, driving cherry and red plum flavors. red plum and cherry. Stays mulchy on the finish. South- and drying wash of tart plum fruit and then a peppery, Scratchy, zesty and crisp on the finish, with tight tannins ern Wine Group. —M.S. woodspiced finish. Tart and astringent overall. Atlanta that draw down. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $15 Improvement Co. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13.2% Price: $12 La Riojana Coop 2010 Triada Malbec (La Tilia 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza). Smoky and 81 Rioja). Creamy and chocolaty on the nose, Valle de la Puerta 2010 La Puerta Syrah 85 rubbery upon opening, with woodspice set- with vanilla notes creating a candied persona. The pal- 81 (Famatina Valley). Earthy and murky smell- tling in as the dominant aroma. Tight and jagged in the ate is flabby and overly sweet, with confected berry fla- ing, with hard, clamping tannins and a leafy, herbal, mouth, with minty, toasty flavors of black fruits and pep-

WineMag.com | 23 per. Turns more drawing, tannic, drying and woody with Bodega Catena Zapata 2009 Catena Kaiken 2008 Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon time. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Solid and 87 (Mendoza). Spicy and bricky on the nose, with abv: 13.5% Price: $10 inviting up front, with licorice, menthol, floral berry tobacco, earth and herbal red berry aromas. The pal- and power. The palate is tight, firm, tannic and lemony, ate is round and tight, with roasted cassis and berry fla- Espiritu de Argentina 2009 Bonarda with oak-based vanilla, dill and lemon flavors accenting vors along with a dusty aftertaste. Sweet on the finish, 82 (Mendoza). Stemmy and funky smelling, with meaty but generic berry fruit. Snappy and tight on the like brown sugar and roasted berries. T.G.I.C. Import- a burnt, stalky element to the core aromas. The palate finish, with plenty of acidity. Winebow. —M.S. ers. —M.S. grates and tastes of stemmy, burnt berry fruit. Stemmy abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 and herbal on the finish as well. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. Felipe Rutini 2006 Encuentro Malbec- Noble Aconcagua 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 13% Price: $10 88 Merlot (Mendoza). A pungent aromatic brew 87 gnon (Mendoza). Rooty aromas of tree bark, of stewy plum, burnt rubber, grilled meat and leather cola, tobacco and sweet briar set up a plump, tannic pal- leads to a high-acid, spiky palate featuring herbal plum ate with roasted, sweet flavors of Mission fig, dark berry CABERNETS & BLENDS and tangy black currant flavors. Packs punch on the and spice. It’s easygoing and loamy on the finish, with nose and throughout, with aggressiveness at all check chewy tannins and not too much bite. Bob Bofman Se- Riglos 2008 Gran Corte (Mendoza). For points. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. lections. —M.S. 93 full review see page 4. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $14

Benegas 2006 Benegas Lynch Meritage Luigi Bosca 2008 Reserva Cabernet Sau- Riglos 2008 Las Divas Vineyard Gran 91 (Mendoza). Huge as a grizzly bear, with grilled 88 vignon (Maipú). Rooty and smoky smelling, 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). Fairly meat, dried herbs and oregano on the nose. The pal- with hickory, roasted berry, cherry and red currant aro- herbal on first take, with green, peppery core aromas ate is really big, with astringent tannins and large fla- mas. The palate is smartly structured, with cassis, plum coming with wood spice and black fruit. The palate is vors of toast, blackberry, spice and caramel. Finishes and other solid berry flavors. Finishes with composure firm and clacky, with tannic clamp and jammy flavors sweet, with burnt brown sugar and drying tannins. A and length; a likable wine for grilled meats. Testa Wines of baked plum that turn candied the longer it airs out. four-grape wine led by Cabernet Sauvignon. Vias Im- Of The World. —M.S. Sweet and jammy by the time it finishes. Paul Hobbs ports. —M.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $21 Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.7% Price: $30 Santa Julia 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (Mendoza). Tomero 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- Altamira 2006 Navigato Family Selection 88 For full review see page 11. doza). Rustic on first blush, with smoky, lightly Grand Reserve (Uco Valley). Nicely staged 87 90 Viña Cobos 2009 Felino Cabernet Sau- baked berry fruit aromas. It’s rubbery and grabby in the aromas of berry, plum, coconut and vanilla set up a driv- vignon (Mendoza). Chocolaty raspberry and mouth, with sweet caramel and brown sugar accents to ing, full-force palate that’s lemony in feel and offers 88 plum aromas are oaky and hint at vanilla. The palate the core baked berry fruit flavors. Toasty and peppery potent flavors of raspberry, plum, herbs and oak. Dry, is fairly soft, with freshening acidity hoisting up sweet on the finish, then sweet as it fades out. A little hot at woody and a touch fiery, with power to spare. Just 250 plum and blackberry jam flavors. Rich and stout late, 14.8% alcohol. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. cases made. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. with molasses on the finish. More easy and ready than abv: 14.8% Price: $15 abv: 15.2% Price: $65 tannic and firm. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Carlos Basso 2010 Dos Fincas Caber- Bodega del Fin del Mundo 2006 Gran net Sauvignon-Merlot (Uco Valley). Baked Reserva (Patagonia). Roasted at first, with 86 90 Zuccardi 2008 Q Cabernet Sauvignon berry, molasses and roasted, jumbled berry fruit aromas coffee, grilled meat and earth aromas taking the lead. (Mendoza). Woodsy aromas lead the charge, lead to a grabby, full-bodied palate with dark, baked Narrow in the mouth, with firm tannins that frame ripe 88 followed by mocha, smoke, raspberry and plum. There’s berry and leathery flavors. Toasty and sizable on the fin- and healthy raspberry flavors accented by vanilla and good acidic lift to the palate and toasty, dark flavors of ish, with a solid feel and general cleanliness. Southern cola. A little bit traditional in that it’s earthy and dry, roasted berry, cassis and chocolate. Finishes lively and Wine Group. —M.S. but it’s not devoid of fruit and attitude. Gaucho Imports, bright. Solid Cabernet for the money; a good wine to abv: 14% Price: $13 LLC. —M.S. match with beef. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $22 Michel Torino 2009 Don David Reserve 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calchaqui Valley). Finca Perdriel 2008 Colección Cabernet Bodega Norton 2008 Barrel Select Cab- On first blush it comes across entirely green and herbal. 89 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Smoky, rich and sa- 87 ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A fruity, jam- Even with airing it continues to show salad dressing, to- vory to start out, with compact berry and plum aromas my style of Cab with thick berry aromas resting in front mato and herbal aromas in addition to red fruit notes. that slant towards raisin with airing. The palate is warm, of a full-bodied, chewy palate with forward red berry Full and solid on the palate, with bell pepper, tobacco full and offers good structure; flavors of baked plum and and chocolate flavors. This is smooth, not complex and and roasted berry flavors. Finishes with more herbal/ berry are nice and the finish is savory and firm, with tan- easygoing proof that Argentina is not only about Mal- green hints and good structure. Frederick Wildman & nic framing. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. bec. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 13.9% Price: $16

Michel Torino 2008 Ciclos Malbec-Merlot Kaiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- Sottano 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- 89 (Salta). Layered aromas of cassis, berry, coffee 87 doza). Ripe, rubbery berry aromas become like 86 doza). Rubber, bacon, berry and plum aromas and mocha come with regional Cafayate green notes. chocolate-covered cherry with time. The palate is full are good overall. The palate is creamy as a whole but The palate is lively and offers ribald acidity along with and a bit syrupy, while the palate is creamy and sweet, has enough acidity to carry cassis and berry flavors past red plum, berry, vanilla, spice and toast flavors. Turns with baked blackberry and peppery flavors. Sweet and being resiny and herbal. Basic on the finish, with mild more oaky the longer it’s open, with vanilla and dill on soft on the finish, with herbs and a touch of coffee-like oak flavor and resin coming into play. Well-Oiled Wine the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. bitterness. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. Company. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $17

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Viña Alicia 2008 Paso de Piedra Caber- Michel Torino 2009 Don David Finca La Benegas 2008 Don Tiburcio (Mendoza). 86 net Sauvignon (Luján de Cuyo). Rubbery 84 Urquiza #8 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafay- 90 Earthy and deep from head to tail. The nose and leathery smelling at first, with berry and cassis aro- ate). More briary and green than Torino’s regular Don offers fresh compost, loamy berry, cola and overriding mas resting below the surface. Feels tannic and closed David Cab, with aromas of vinegar, lettuce, tomato and richness. Feels smooth and layered across the palate, on the palate, with syrupy, reduced plum, berry and cur- green pepper. Tannic, tight and juicy in the mouth, with with dark berry, pepper and bitter chocolate flavors. rant flavors. Not too much shows up on the finish oth- green-leaning red currant and plum flavors. Tannic and Blackened on the finish and toasty; 50% Malbec with er than thickness and a subtle plum nuance. Southern grating on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. four additional Bordeaux varieties. Vias Imports. Best Starz, Inc. —M.S. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $14

Zorzal 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- Wandering Grape 2010 Malbec-Merlot Bodega Renacer 2009 Enamore (Men- 86 doza). Earthy, roasted and condensed on the 84 (Mendoza). Baked plum and berry aromas 90 doza). Black plum, blackberry, lemon zest and nose, with a compact, structured palate housing tight come in front of a lively palate with earthy berry and licorice are the key aromas on this Amarone-patterned plum and cherry flavors. Shows freshness, lift and a baked flavors. It’s medicinal and spicy later on, with blend from Argentina. The palate is concentrated, rich good step, with a juicy finish and racy acids. Wine Brin- some grab and a simple, standard structure. 65% Mal- and lush, with grabby, soft tannins and sweet flavors of dis Importers. —M.S. bec and 35% Merlot. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. blackberry, brown sugar and caramel. Toasty and mild abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $11 on the finish, with jammy thickness. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Finca El Origen 2010 Reserva Cabernet Finca El Origen 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- 85 Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Opens with rub- 83 gnon (Mendoza). Tomato leaf, rhubarb and Carlos Basso 2006 Signature Blend (Uco bery, gaseous aromas that morph into latex and finally herbal aromas come in front of a tight, tannic and prick- 90 Valley). Stout and a little baked up front, with briary berry. The palate has a highly regular, tannic feel ly palate with green, spicy berry flavors. Turns hot and heavy berry and slightly stewy aromas. Chewy and along with minty, generic flavors of berry and herbs. Ba- smacky on the finish, with carob and herbal flavors. Car- meaty on the palate, with plum, berry, leather and herb- sil and spice notes show up on the mildly green finish. olina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. al flavors that marry well and show complexity. Fine Contains 15% Malbec and Syrah. Carolina Wine Brands abv: 14% Price: $8 structure and tightness suggest this Malbec-led blend USA. —M.S. could age for a while longer; drink now through 2014. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 Argana 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- Southern Wine Group. —M.S. 80 doza). A weird wine with a distinct and over- abv: NA Price: $25 Gouguenheim Winery 2009 Cabernet riding clove character that’s manifested on the nose, 85 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Berry aromas are palate and finish. One-dimensional and strange, with Gouguenheim Winery 2006 Red Melosa clean and forward, with just a spot of resin and vanilla. way too much clove impact. Atlanta Improvement Co. 90 Flores del Valle (Mendoza). Floral and at- The palate is snappy and crisp, with cherry and plum —M.S. tractive on the bouquet, with citrus peel, light raspber- acidity framing dry, tangy, lightly herbal flavors of rasp- abv: 13.4% Price: $12 ry, cassis and lift. The palate runs tannic and fresh, with berry and red plum. Light and zesty on the semisharp crisp black cherry and kirsch flavors that flow seamlessly finish. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. into layered tobacco and mild herbal notes. A sophisti- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 OTHER RED BLENDS cated red made from Malbec, Cabernet and Bonarda. Vias Imports. —M.S. Ricominciare 2009 Cabernet Franc-Cab- Bodega NQN 2006 Coleccion NQN Pa- abv: 13.5% Price: $21 85 ernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). One of the 91 tagonia Universe (Patagonia). Dense and harder, more tannic wines from Argentina you’ll come beefy at first, then menthol, licorice, blackberry and Proemio 2006 Barrel Selection Red Wine across. The nose has leafy, menthol aromas that are earth aromas come out on the nose. The palate is deep 90 (Mendoza). For full review see page 8. raisiny and rooty. The palate is like nails it’s so tannic, and well structured, with toasty, dark flavors of choco- while the flavors of cassis, prune and bitter chocolate late mint along with leathery berry. Finishes with coffee Lagarde 2009 Guarda (Mendoza). Sweet are deep and good. Super tannic stuff. The Artisan Col- and peppery flavors. Serious and satisfying; 60% Mal- 89 and leafy smelling, with a hint of green bean to lection. —M.S. bec and 40% Cab Sauvignon. Vias Imports. —M.S. go with root beer and berry aromas. The palate is tan- abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 nic and tight, with an untamed overall mouthfeel. Tastes lively and zesty, with blackberry, plum and chocolate fla- Casarena 2009 Estate Bottled Cabernet Finca Perdriel 2006 Vineyard Selection vors. Toasty and firm on the finish. Malbec, CS, Merlot 84 Sauvignon (Agrelo). Rubbery, dense aromas 91 Mendoza). Intense stuff, with foresty, force- and Syrah in descending order. Well-Oiled Wine Com- are murky and on the green side as leafy, tomato notes ful aromas of blackberry, black cherry, char, mineral and pany. —M.S. rise up. Feels a bit thick and heavy, with herbal, sticky, toast. The palate is quite thick and dense, with baked abv: 15% Price: $28 sweet berry flavors mixed with a syrupy grab. Carries its and spicy blackberry flavors offset by herbal notes. Con- weight in plodding fashion; a sweet and unctuous Cab. centrated and minty, with a bullish finish. T.G.I.C. Im- Proemio 2006 Grand Reserve Winemak- Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. porters. —M.S. 89 er’s Selection (Mendoza). Somewhat rustic abv: 14.9% Price: $17 abv: 14.8% Price: $70 on the nose, with baked, herbal lead aromas bringing side scents of tree bark and earthy berry. Tightly wound Don Cristobal 1492 2010 Finca La Niña Monteviejo 2008 Lindaflor Petite Fleur and tannic in the mouth, with cola, spice and chocolaty 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Lean, 91 (Mendoza). Ripe blackberry aromas are ac- flavors. Dry, focused and composed as it makes its point. fiery berry aromas come with forced oak and dried cented by herbal notes, tomato, cedar and tobacco. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.S. cheese scents. The palate is creamy and pasty feeling, The palate is full and walled in by big tannins, while the abv: 14% Price: $26 with chunky berry fruit and thick, creamy oak flavors flavor profile is ripe, masculine and centered on black and tannins. A bit herbal as well. Eagle Eye Imports. fruit, mocha and coffee. Toasty and oaky late, with to- Tikal 2009 Patriota Malbec-Bonarda —M.S. bacco on the finish. A serious wine with obvious quali- 89 (Mendoza). Black fruit, licorice, cola and abv: 14% Price: $10 ties. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S. chocolate aromas cover the bases. The palate is full, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 sweet and saturated, with a slight syrupy feel and bold blackberry, blueberry and mocha flavors. Sweet on the

WineMag.com | 25 finish, with vanilla, coffee and a small wash of herbal it transitions to the finish. An herbal, sharp-edged red. delicately spicy, oak-driven backdrop. Ripe apple and green; 60% Bonarda/40% Malbec. Vine Connections. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. pear notes mingle seamlessly with delicate almond and —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 hazelnut toast accents, while hints of sweet baking spice abv: NA Price: $20 remain through the lengthy finish. World Premiere Wines LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. Finca Perdriel 2008 Centenario (Mendo- SOUTH AFRICAN WHITES abv: 13.5% Price: $15 88 za). Warm and oaky on the nose, with sawdust, cassis, vanilla and lemon peel aromas. The palate is satu- CHENIN BLANC Post House 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- rated and kind of dull in feel, with ripe blueberry, black- 89 bosch). There’s a gorgeous toasty character berry and spice flavors that are chunky and don’t evolve Ken Forrester 2009 The FMC Forrester to the red apple skin and almond aromas on the nose, on the back palate and finish. A rich Malbec-Cabernet- 92 Meinert Chenin Chenin Blanc (Stellen- while aggressive citrus and ripe apple flesh flavors take Merlot blend that registers low on pulse. Drink now. bosch). Ripe notes of red apple, honeydew, orange hold of the medium-weight mouth. The moderate acid- T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. blossom and a touch of nuttiness are all augmented ity cuts through the generous palate, while a serious abv: 14.8% Price: $35 by a backdrop of gorgeous assorted wild flowers, add- spicy aftertaste remains through the finish. Terry Seitz. ing complexity and liveliness to the bouquet and lush, —L.B. Sottano 2009 Reserva Blend (Mendoza). round palate. Dried apricot drizzled with honey and abv: 13.5% Price: $24 88 Briary aromas start with some funk and animal gingery spice unfold on the close, but balanced acidity then settle down and clean up. The palate has a nice, keeps the long finish mouthwatering and bright. Drink Rijk’s 2009 Touch of Oak Chenin Blanc layered feel and earthy flavors of berry, cassis and herbs. now–2014. Cape Classics. —L.B. 89 (Tulbagh). The touch of oak that’s promised Finishes long, chocolaty and spicy, with freshness. 60% abv: 14% Price: $65 on the label is delivered with subtle hints of almond Malbec with 30% Cabernet and 10% Syrah. Well-Oiled and dusty spice. Otherwise, the wine is fresh and lively Wine Company. —M.S. Rijk’s 2007 Private Cellar Reserve Chen- with assertive and zippy notes of green plum and un- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 92 in Blanc (Tulbagh). Though the fruit is start- derripe tropical fruit, all of which carry through to the ing to fade on this mature Chenin, it’s drinking quite mouthwatering finish. Drink now. The Artisan Collec- Valle Azul 2006 Cuvée Don Vito (Patago- beautifully now with rich notes of fresh butter, baked tion. —L.B. 87 nia). A sappy, jammy nose offers a nice entry apple, clove-spiced orange and yellow florals on the abv: 13.5% Price: $30 to this simple blend of Cabernet and Merlot. The pal- nose. Peach pit, honeydew and orange oil flesh out the ate feel is regular and healthy, while the flavors run to- mouth, but the acid cuts through the weight and pro- Ken Forrester 2010 Petit Chenin Blanc ward generic red fruits with a touch of green herbs and vides a clean cut to the spice-infused finish. Drink now. 88 (Western Cape). Bright and balanced with caramel. Snappy and crisp on the finish. Vias Imports. The Artisan Collection. —L.B. earthy notes of straw and almond skin spicing up the —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 green melon, anjou pear and rich kiwi fruit flavors. The abv: 14% Price: $16 mouth is full and satifying while the finish is somewhat DeMorgenzon 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stel- brisk with great lift. Drink now. Cape Classics. Best Montepio 2010 SyBo Syrah-Bonarda 91 lenbosch). Delicious and decadent while si- Buy. —L.B. 87 (Mendoza). Full berry aromas with spice on multaneoulsy restrained and balanced, this is a gor- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 the side form a good opening. It’s a full, tight wine on geous Chenin that offers a little bit of everything: ripe the palate with oaky, meaty, almost foresty flavors of fruit, floral character and sweet spice. Fresh nectarine, Lammershoek 2008 Chenin Blanc blackberry, spice and mint. Racy, drying, tasty and good rich fig and softly honeyed melon fill the nose and -me 88 (Swartland). Fermented in French oak using given that one finds few Syrah-Bonarda blends to pick dium-weight mouth. There’s a clean, acidic lift to the only wild yeasts, this is a lavish and spicy Chenin for from. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. finish that transitions into notes of orange blossom and a reasonable price. Wood-driven notes of honeyed al- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ginger root. Cape Classics. —L.B. monds, toasted challah and Honeycomb cereal domi- abv: 14% Price: $30 nate the overall character, though flavors of pineapple Notro 2010 Sangiovese-Bonarda (Men- and juicy peach appear in the mouth. Worthwhile Wine 85 doza). Basic sweet berry aromas come across Ken Forrester 2010 Reserve Chenin Company. —L.B. like fruit punch. The palate has a standard, solid mouth- 90 Blanc (Stellenbosch). A strong toasty streak abv: 14.5% Price: $25 feel and generic berry flavors. A little bit medicinal on lines the essence of this beautiful Chenin Blanc, adding the finish, and overall it’s your regular everyday red character to the apple and pear fruit core. The mouth- Cederberg 2010 Chenin Blanc (Ceder- wine with not much varietal character. 50% each San- feel is full and rich without being overdone thanks to 87 berg). Soft citrus, green apple and plum lead giovese and Bonarda. Hand Picked Selections. Best the balanced acidity, while nuances of sweet spice, pie the way on the nose of this easy-drinking white. More Buy. —M.S. crust and wood-grilled Red Delicious all linger well into of the same unfolds in the brisk mouth, with tart green abv: 13% Price: $9 the long finish. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. berries and lime pith staying through the close. Re- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 freshing and zippy; drink now. Worthwhile Wine Com- Don Cristobal 1492 2010 1492 Red Wine pany. —L.B. 83 Mendoza). Sharp, prickly aromas suggest tart Rijk’s 2008 Private Cellar Barrel Fer- abv: 13% Price: $18 red plum and wild herbs. The palate is a bit heavy and 90 mented Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region). sticky, with sweet, gummy, medicinal berry flavors. Fin- Though sweeter aromas of melon, dried peach and apri- Fleur Du Cap 2010 Bergkelder Selection ishes bitter and peppery, with a medicinal aftertaste. cot abound in the bouquet, the prominent acidity lifts 87 Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). Crisp citrus Eagle Eye Imports. —M.S. the mouth and provides vibrancy to the rich fruit flavors and underripe stone fruit flavors are at the core, with a abv: 13.5% Price: $7 on the palate. Woody spice and a touch of tannic astrin- touch of earthy grass adding another layer to this wine’s gency adds a nice texture to the finish. Drink now or character. Clean and balanced with a soft mouthfeel de- Notro 2010 Tinto Fundación (Mendoza). through 2012. The Artisan Collection. —L.B. spite the tart green plum and watermelon rind flavors. 83 Red plum, tomato and brambly herbal aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —L.B. set up a snappy, astringent palate with strained rasp- abv: 13% Price: $10 berry, spice and herbal flavors. Very dry and acidic as Vinum Africa 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- 90 bosch). A balanced and quite pleasing Chenin Mulderbosch 2010 Chenin Blanc (West- Blanc that offers both bright, fleshy fruit flavors and a 87 ern Cape). Quiet and shy, this wine takes

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 a little bit to fully open up. After it finally does, you’ll eycomb and sweet spice that linger beautifully through Indaba 2010 Chardonnay (Western be rewarded with dainty aromas of fresh apple flesh the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. 85 Cape). Sweet orange and ripe melon notes fill and barely ripe melon followed by flavors of orange oil abv: 14% Price: $15 the nose and plump mouth, while additional accents of and light toast that fill the round palate. Cape Classics. apple skin and soft toast carry through to the clean fin- —L.B. Eikendal 2010 Chardonnay (Western ish. Drink now. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 88 Cape). A flinty and mineral-driven Chard that abv: 13.5% Price: $10 also expresses a soft backnote of fresh savory herbs, Nabygelegen 2009 Chenin Blanc (Wel- white florals and clover on the nose. There’s plenty of Two Oceans 2010 Chardonnay (West- 87 lington). A lush and weighty Chenin Blanc rich fruit to be found on the round palate, as the as- 84 ern Cape). Clean and light with easy-pleas- with ripe fruit flavors of citrus oil, apple flesh, and green sertive toasted apple and honeydew flavors flood the ing notes of red apple flesh and tropical fruit acidity. A plum laced with notes of soft vanilla bean and clove. mouth and remain through the long finish. Protea Wine touch of buttered toasted challah bread adds depth to The richness of the palate lends itself to pair nicely with Importers & Distributors. —L.B. the close. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 hearty creamy chicken or fish dishes. The Artisan Col- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 lection. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $24 Winery of Good Hope 2010 Unoaked SAUVIGNON BLANC Chardonnay (Western Cape). Fresh and in- Raats Family 2010 Original Unwooded 87 viting with assertive notes of pineapple and sweet citrus Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region). Though Porcupine Ridge 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 87 backed by fleshy pear and melon accents on the nose it’s brisk and lightweight, the fresh green apple and (Western Cape). For full review see page 11. and mouth. The palate offers zippy acidity with a clean 88 white peach flavors are attractive and clean, marrying seamlessly with the mouthwatering acidity and orange lift to the finish. Drink now. World Premiere Wines Rustenberg 2010 Sauvignon Blanc blossom finish. Perfect for enjoying now. Cape Classics. LLC. —L.B. 88 (Western Cape). The brisk finish lifts the —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 round mouthfeel of this ripe Sauv Blanc, as flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $15 of ripe gooseberry and green fig are perfectly poised Fleur Du Cap 2010 Bergkelder Selec- against a backdrop of sweet grass and a touch of chamo- MAN Vintners 2010 Chenin Blanc (Coast- 86 tion Chardonnay (Western Cape). Soft mile. Refreshing and satisfying all at once; drink now 86 al Region). There’s a subtle honeyed edge to toast and hazelnut aromas add character to the other- and through 2012. Cape Classics. —L.B. this otherwise light and easygoing wine, adding heft to wise straightforward honeydew, pear and orange oil fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 the ripe melon and stone fruit notes. The lush fruit fla- vors of this value Chard. Medium weight with a round vors pair with the mouthwatering acidity on the finish, body but lifting acidity to keep things fresh and vibrant. Ken Forrester 2010 Sauvignon Blanc balancing everything out in the end. Drink now. Vine- Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Best 87 (Stellenbosch). Ripe tropical notes of kiwi yard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. Buy. —L.B. and firm guava are lifted with accents of dried white abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $10 florals and lemon rind citrus. The racy mouth finishes with a grapefruit-infused finish that shines bright. Drink Fairvalley 2010 Chenin Blanc (West- Glenelly 2010 The Glass Collection Char- now. Cape Classics. —L.B. 85 ern Cape). Straightforward and easy with 86 donnay (Stellenbosch). Round but lifted abv: 13.5% Price: $15 approachable aromas of ripe pear and fresh melon. with racy pineapple-infused acidity in the mouth, this Though light on intensity, it’s balanced and well-made Chard offers ripe melon and red apple flavors to bal- Nabygelegen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc with an overall crowd-pleasing style. Drink now. World ance the serious cut. A hint of peach pit nuttiness stays 87 (Wellington). Rich and complex, this Sauv Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. through the finish. Drink now. Cape Classics. —L.B. Blanc shows more depth and weight on the nose and abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 mouth than most would anticipate, but the finish cleans it all up with an endless mouthwatering sensation. Fresh Simonsig 2010 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- Jardin 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay (Stel- green grass, orange, green fig and apple flesh out the 85 bosch). A straightforward but refreshing white 86 lenbosch). Dainty and nuanced, this crisp palate. The Artisan Collection. —L.B. with notes of green plum and underripe peach pit citrus-driven Chard offers background notes of al- abv: 13% Price: $24 against a backbone of tropical fruit-driven acidity. Great mond skin and pear to flesh out the mouth. Lively and zip and liveliness to the finish. Drink now. Quintessen- Plaisir De Merle 2010 Sauvignon Blanc somewhat prickly acidity dances on the tongue through tial Wines. —L.B. (Western Cape). Vegetal notes of asparagus the mouthwatering close. Drink now. World Premiere 87 abv: 14% Price: $12 mingle with accents of chalk and sweet grass on the Wines LLC. —L.B. nose, while ruby grapefruit and underripe mango fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Tormentoso 2010 Old Vine Chenin Blanc vors burst in the mouth. Vibrant and clean; drink now. (Paarl). There’s a nice flinty character ex- Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —L.B. 85 MAN Vintners 2010 Chardonnay (Coastal pressed throughout this wine, pairing harmoniously abv: 14% Price: $NA Region). The notes of green apple and lem- with the ripe red apple and orange notes. Though the 86 mouth is rich and full, the finish exhibits great lift and ony citrus are fresh and clean with great clarity and pre- Eikendal 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (West- clarity. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. cision. Balanced and easy to drink with a buttoned-up 86 ern Cape). Green grass and a hint of baby abv: 13.5% Price: $13 finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. powder are paired with notes of green gooseberry and abv: 13.5% Price: $11 lime on the nose, while riper but similarly tart flavors of white cranberry and citrus take hold of the mouth- CHARDONNAY Riebeek Cellars 2010 Collection Char- watering palate. Drink now. Protea Wine Importers & 86 donnay (Swartland). Fresh, clean and easy Distributors. —L.B. DeMorgenzon 2010 DMZ Chardonnay with ripe aromas of red apple flesh and hard nectarine abv: 13.5% Price: $13 89 (Western Cape). A touch of oaky character on the nose and a solid lime-driven citrus core that liv- adds depth and richness to this attractive and balanced ens up the palate and the finish. Drink now. Kysela Père Riebeek Cellars 2010 Collection Sau- Chard. Red apple, ripe peach and orange oil flavors are et Fils. Best Buy. —L.B. 86 vignon Blanc (Swartland). Light and easy at the heart of the palate, accented by glimmers of hon- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 with a great lift to the green plum, hard guava and ba-

WineMag.com | 27 nana notes. Lively but not overly zippy or mouth-puck- and fresh honey. Drink now–2014. World Premiere mouth, but the spicy core dominates yet again on the ering on the finish. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. close. Terry Seitz. —L.B. Buy. —L.B. abv: 10.5% Price: $22/375 ml abv: 15% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Ken Forrester 2006 T Noble Late Harvest Boland 2010 Cappuccino Pinotage Durbanville Hills 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 91 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). The first 88 (Paarl). The name doesn’t mislead or disap- 85 (Durbanville). This Sauv Blanc could use a bit nosing strongly suggests a square of pure, fresh hon- point with intense mocha aromas and flavors paired more lift to the lightweight but round mouth, but over- eycomb, but it’s closely followed by attractive notes of with raspberry sauce and sweet spice flavors. This is all it’s clean and easy-drinking with notes of lime pith, baking spice, candied orange peel, apple pie and dried a crowd-pleasing style of Pinotage with a texture like gooseberry and dried grass notes. Drink now. Aveniù apricot. Spicy notes of clove and ginger show real stay- crushed satin, medium tannins and a lush but not overly Brands, Inc. —L.B. ing power on the finish, while appropriately assertive opulent mouthfeel. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 acidity keeps things fresh in the mouth. Cape Classics. abv: 14% Price: $18 —L.B. Fleur Du Cap 2010 Bergkelder Selection abv: 13% Price: $55 Remhoogte 2009 Pinotage (Simonsberg- 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape). Fresh 88 Stellenbosch). Fresh spearmint sprig perme- grass, green plum and lime rind notes characterize this Post House 2008 Treskilling Yellow Chen- ates the bouquet and palate, lifting up the intense black easygoing white. There’s a lifting prickly sensation to the 88 in Blanc (Stellenbosch). Though it might be cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. Medium weight, with palate followed by a short but cleansing finish. Maisons a bit direct and simple, this dessert wine is delicious and a nice juicy liveliness that transitions nicely into the long Marques & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —L.B. satisfying with decadent flavors of juicy peach, sweet finish infused with sweet spice. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 spice and ginger bread drizzled with honey. The alcohol abv: 15% Price: $19 shows a bit after swallow, but the spicy notes take hold on the close. Terry Seitz. —L.B. Winery of Good Hope 2010 Bush Vine Pi- DESSERT WINES abv: NA Price: $23 88 notage (Stellenbosch). An opaque garnet color in the glass, this is a deep and brooding Pinotage Klein Constantia 2005 Vin de Constance that shows great intensity and concentration. Heady 94 Muscat (Constantia). A lovely dessert wine, SOUTH AFRICAN REDS black fruit, espresso grinds, woody spice and black tea perhaps the pinnacle in South Africa. Concentrated and all abound on the nose and mouth, and a glimmer of quite intense with full-bodied flavors of orange rind, PINOTAGE peppery game lingers on the end. Big and firm with clementine and dried apricot fruit spiced with notes strong tannins and a tight finish. World Premiere Wines of crushed yellow florals, roasted nut skin, toasted egg Rijk’s 2007 Reserve Pinotage (Tulbagh). LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. bread and pure honeycomb. Balanced acidity prevents 91 With only 20 cases imported, this will be a abv: 14% Price: $13 the mouth from being too thick or viscous, while the tough find but it’s certainly well worth the hunt. This endless finish carries decadent notes of candied ginger. high-end Pinotage is lush and creamy, the oak-driven Hartenberg 2006 Pinotage (Stellen- Cape Classics. —L.B. notes of dark chocolate and smoky cigar spice fusing 87 bosch). The bouquet takes a while to fully ex- abv: 12.5% Price: $50/500 ml seamlessly with the damson plum and dark berry pre- press itself, as scents of blackberry, cassis, licorice root serve fruit center. Though dense and powerful, the long and milk chocolate develop with time. Despite its age, Klein Constantia 2006 Vin de Constance finish is surprisingly vibrant and spicy all at once. The the wine’s still tightly wound mouth offers firm tannins 93 Muscat (Constantia). Butterscotch, honeyed Artisan Collection. —L.B. and flavors of leather, roasted vanilla bean and plum almonds and candied ginger-orange peel lead the way abv: 15% Price: $75 skins with good staying power. Drink now–2013. Terry on the nose of this late harvest Muscat. Rich, overripe Seitz. —L.B. mango and honeydew add levity to the palate, lifting the Kanonkop 2009 Pinotage (Simonsberg- abv: 14.5% Price: $26 heady spice and viscous, syrupy flavors. The long finish 90 Stellenbosch). Deep, dark and concentrated carries a tinge of pithiness, adding some tongue-smack- with serious notes of blackberry, cassis and plum flesh Painted Wolf 2010 The Den Pinotage ing texture to the close. Has aging potential, though it’s all laced with a menthol edge. Accents of fruit cake and 87 (Coastal Region). Coffee grinds and black certainly also enjoyable now. Cape Classics. —L.B. sweet spice dance in the finish. Balanced and full in the licorice root spice up the black berry and cherry aro- abv: 13% Price: $50/500 ml mouth, the fine but present tannins and moderate acidi- mas in the bouquet. Surprisingly firm and concentrat- ty offer the promise of longevity; drink now–2015. Cape ed in the mouth, the skin-driven dark fruit flavors are Mullineux 2010 Straw Wine Chenin Blanc Classics. —L.B. forward but tight with serious staying power; allow for 93 (Swartland). Rich and honeyed, this viscous abv: 14% Price: $35 some time to soften and open up a bit before enjoying. and tongue-coating straw wine offers intense flavors of Southern Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B. baked apple, fresh honey, Medjool date and candied Rijk’s 2006 Private Cellar Pinotage (Tul- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 orange that remain endlessly on the palate and finish. 90 bagh). With a satiny texture and softened tan- Though the wine is decadently powerful, there’s enough nins, this is a well-balanced Pinotage that’s ready for Ken Forrester 2010 Petit Pinotage (West- acidity to support the weight and keep things from be- enjoyment now. Brambly dark berry, Asian spice and 86 ern Cape). Ken Forrester’s Petit Pinotage is an ing simply too sweet. Drink now through 2014. Kysela sweet mesquite smoke all abound on the nose and accessible and easy-drinking wine from the notoriously Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. mouth, while the long finish carries the charred woody love-it-or-hate-it grape that shows bright brambly for- abv: 8% Price: $37/375 ml edge even further. Drink now. The Artisan Collection. rest berry and plum flesh flavors coupled with a touch —L.B. of coffee-infused milk chocolate on the finish. Balanced Paul Cluver 2010 Noble Late Harvest abv: 14.5% Price: $55 and juicy, it’s sure to please. Cape Classics. —L.B. 92 Riesling (Elgin). An attractive dessert wine at abv: 14% Price: $12 an incredibly attractive price, this is a beautifully bal- Hartenberg 2007 Pinotage (Stellen- anced late-harvest Riesling with a refreshingly mouth- 89 bosch). Tobacco leaf, cured sweet dried sau- Riebeek Cellars 2010 Collection Pino- watering finish. The mouth is full and lush but the acid- sage and green peppercorns overpower the black cher- 86 tage (Swartland). Dark berries and a touch ity is crisp and cleansing, lifting the ripe and concentrat- ry and currant fruit tones, making this an earth- and of woody spice lead the way on the nose of this friendly ed notes of baked apple, dried mango, peach preserves spice-driven style of Pinotage. The fruit, more skin than Pinotage. As you settle in to the velvety texture, sultry flesh, shows a touch more in the lush, firmly structured tannins wrap around your tongue and mingle with the

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 juicy plum and peppery spice flavors. Ready to drink nent acidity followed by a black pepper-dominated fin- Vilafonté 2008 Series C (Paarl). The 2008 now. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —L.B. ish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —L.B. 93 Series C shows more grip and bruising structure abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $NA than previous vintages of the Cabernet-based blend, with gripping tannins framing the hugely concentrated Fairvalley 2009 Pinotage (Coastal Re- Winery of Good Hope 2010 Mountainside and heady blackberry, boysenberry and deep plum fla- 85 gion). There’s a sweet ripeness to the strawber- 86 Shiraz (Stellenbosch). Here’s a straightfor- vors. Tight and firm in the mouth, complex backnotes of ry and raspberry fruit flavors in this wine, with a touch ward but enjoyable Shiraz with notes of dark plum, black licorice, cigar tobacco and crushed African violet of chocolaty richness developing in the mouth. Easy cherry and strawberry on the nose and mouth. There’s petals appear once the structure subsides and remain drinking with soft tannins and a clean finish; enjoy now. a touch of greenness on the palate augmented by firm, through the very long close. Hold until 2014–2016. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. young tannins, but it all works out and fades smoothly Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $11 on the finish. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $14 Durbanville Hills 2009 Pinotage (Durban- Eikendal 2008 Classique (Stellenbosch). ville). 84 Straightforward raspberry and straw- Indaba 2010 Shiraz (Western Cape). 92 Composed of 40% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot and berry fruit aromas hit you first, followed by accents of 30% Cab Franc, this is a rich and robust Bordeaux-style There’s an attractive raspberry leaf aroma to bramble and soft peppery spice. Juicy and vibrant in 85 blend with assertive notes of tanned leather and cigar the bouquet of this wine, supported with scents of juicy the mouth with an easy structure and crisp finish. Drink box among the expected boysenberry and black cur- plum and crushed carnation. The mouth is medium now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —L.B. rant fruit core. Firm tannins grip the mouth and linger weight with light tannins and a softly peppered finish. abv: 14% Price: $12 through the long mocha-flavored finish. Drink now– Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. 2015. Protea Wine Importers & Distributors. —L.B. Fleur Du Cap 2009 Bergkelder Selection abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 84 Pinotage (Coastal Region). Here’s a lively and fruit-driven Pinotage with a hint of fudgy brown- Jam Jar 2010 Sweet Shiraz (Western Rust en Vrede 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- ie adding depth to the forward black berry and cherry 84 Cape). Reminiscent of strawberry and cherry 91 gnon (Stellenbosch). Intense and concen- fruit. The palate is light and easygoing with low tannins hard candies, this is a Shiraz for those who like confec- trated with thick notes of all-fruit preserves, tree bark, and a short but clean finish. Drink up. Maisons Marques tioned and somewhat artificial fruit flavors. Although cigar leaf and old campfire throughout the nose and & Domaines USA. —L.B. the style may not be for everyone, it’s balanced and easy mouth. The velvety texture is amped up with assertive, abv: 14% Price: $12 pleasing. Cape Classics. —L.B. lip-smacking tannins and a gripping finish that lingers abv: 12.5% Price: $12 endlessly. Hints of cassis skin and black tea astringency leave you primed for more. Terlato Wines International. SHIRAZ Two Oceans 2010 Shiraz (Western Cape). —L.B. 84 There’s a good fruit core to this value Shiraz, abv: 15% Price: $27 Cederberg 2008 Shiraz (Cederberg). with bright notes of cherry and strawberry thoughtout. 91 Deep and intense, the bouquet is like a bowl of The medium-weight mouth offers soft, approachable Thelema 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel- black cherries muddled with a mocha latte and drizzled tannins and ends with a clean close. Aveniù Brands, Inc. 91 lenbosch). There’s a prominent herbal streak with raspberry sauce. Accents of sweet cigar tobacco —L.B. to the nose of this wine, but it’s not jarring thanks to and purple florals add herbal complexity to the ripe fruit abv: 14% Price: $10 the support of rich black cherry and black currant fruit core, while moderate acidity and fine tannins texturize core. The savory herbs, menthol and licorice herba- the lush mouthfeel. Drink now–2013. Worthwhile Wine ceousness continues through to the palate, where again Company. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. CABERNETS & BLENDS it’s matched by equally intense dark fruit flavors and a abv: 14.8% Price: $24 mouthwatering finish. Silky wood-spice accents the long Edgebaston 2008 GS Cabernet Sauvi- finish. Drink now–2014. Cape Classics. —L.B. Rudi Schultz 2008 Syrah (Stellenbosch). 93 gnon (Stellenbosch). Hearty and complex, abv: 14% Price: $41 91 There’s a serious herbal edge to this wine, with this beautifully intense yet balanced Cab is begging for notes of bergamot tea leaves and menthol shining some time in the cellar. Strong aromas of cassis, for- Thelema 2008 The Mint Cabernet Sauvi- through the black raspberry and plum core. But it’s all rest berries, licorice, clove and bittersweet chocolate 91 gnon (Stellenbosch). There’s no doubt as to balanced and delicious, with the rich fruit never failing flood the nose, while flavors of black plum, leather hide, why they call this wine “The Mint,” as the first whafts to support it all, especially as the peppery spice comes roasted cocoa nibs and cigar box spice unfold in the lush of the bouquet provide an unquestionable mentholated into play in the mouth and the cocoa-like tannins linger aroma with a backdrop of black plum and currant fruit. mouth and transition through to the long finish. With on the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. Glimmers of crushed violet petals and mocha develop everything so proportionately big and powerful, give abv: 15% Price: $30 in the silky mouth, with the fine well-integrated tannins this until 2014–2018. Southern Starz, Inc. Cellar Se- sticking through the lingering close. Enjoyable now but lection. —L.B. Rust en Vrede 2008 Shiraz (Stellen- cellar-worthy for another couple of years. Cape Classics. abv: 15% Price: $60 89 bosch). Here’s a fruitfocused Shiraz that puts —L.B. forward just what one would expect: red cherry and abv: 14% Price: $45 Mvemve Raats 2008 MR de Compostella plum fruit flavors backed by hints of black pepper and (Stellenbosch). game. The fine tannins and medium body produce an 93 “De Compostella,” meaning Glenelly 2009 The Glass Collection Cab- overall structure that’s approachable now. Terlato Wines field or compilation of stars, reflects the fact that each 90 ernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). This is a International. —L.B. component is crafted to stand alone; all varieties are vi- very nice Cab at an extremely friendly price. Smoke and abv: 15% Price: $27 nified separately, aged and then blended. Vibrant plum, deep black fruit are the first impressions from the bou- black cherry and blackberry are spiced with notes of lic- quet, with aromas of whole tobacco leaf and balsamic Plaisir De Merle 2008 Shiraz (Paarl). orice root, leather and tobacco. It’s a dense and pow- reduction appearing upon further nosing. Filling and 88 Brambly red berry, dried tobacco leaves and se- erful Bordeaux-style blend with a firm structure that velvety in the mouth, a kiss of charred oak and roast- rious gamey notes lead the way on the bouquet, while promises to develop beautifully with time in the cellar. ed cocoa nibs remain through the close. Cape Classics. a bit more ripe plum and cherry flavors unfold in the Cape Classics. —L.B. —L.B. mouth. Balanced but a bit on the rustic side with promi- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $18

WineMag.com | 29 Raats Family 2008 Cabernet Franc (Stel- OTHER RED BLENDS ping tannins and a palate loaded with black plum skin, 90 lenbosch). A beautiful wine that shows true forest berries, cigar leaf and a hint of rosemary twig. Cab Franc character in it’s core of tobacco leaf and spicy Ernie Els 2009 Big Easy (Western Cape). The finish is long and reminiscent of French press cof- berry fruit. Bramble and black cherry add depth to the 90 This blend offers a nice mix of forest floor and fee; try after 2012. Cape Classics. —L.B. medium-weight mouth as fine tannins coat your entire wild berries along with soft accents of mocha and Afri- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 palate but fade gracefully into the slightly smoky and can violets. Lush and firm in the mouth, the dark fruit ashy finish. Expressive yet balanced; drink now–2014. dominates the palate but the accents of leather, licorice Beyerskloof 2008 Synergy Cape Blend Cape Classics. —L.B. and sweet spice linger through the long finish. Drink 86 (Stellenbosch). Once you get past the herb- abv: 14% Price: $30 now–2013. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. al edge, there are nice red berry and fudgy chocolate abv: 14.5% Price: $20 brownie aromas and flavors that play together nicely. Edgebaston 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon A touch of sweet spice appears after swallow to liven 89 (Stellenbosch). Baked plum and black berry Ernie Els 2008 Proprietor’s Blend (Stel- up the juicy fruit core. Drink now. Cape Wine Match. aromas mesh with a meaty character on the nose, while 90 lenbosch). Menthol and anise add depth —L.B. black pepper and crushed carnation petals add depth to to the otherwise black fruit-dominant bouquet of this abv: 14.5% Price: $16 the black fruit-dominant palate. It takes a while for the wine. Rich and full, the creamy texture is loaded with wine to fully open up, but once it comes out of its shell flavors of blackberry, licorice root and cigar box, all lin- Graceland 2008 Strawberry Fields Shi- the silky texture and rich fruit character shines magnifi- gering long after swallow. Firm tannins, medium acid- 86 raz-Cabernet Sauvignon (Western Cape). cently. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. ity and concentrated fruit all promise longevity: drink The alcohol is a bit too noticeable here, but overall this abv: 15% Price: $30 now–2014. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. is a straightforward wine with nice mocha and spicy abv: 15% Price: $35 oak accents to the wild berry and red plum fruit frame. Avontuur 2008 Cabernet Franc (Stellen- Drink now. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. 88 bosch). Glimmers of flint and smoke rim the Bouchard Finlayson 2008 Hannibal abv: 14.5% Price: $30 black cherry and berry fruit on the nose, coupled with 89 (Walker Bay). A very interesting blend com- earthy scents of tobacco and bramble. The medium- posed of 50% Sangiovese, 22% Pinot Noir, 13% Neb- The Ruins 2010 Made With Organic weight mouth offers more developed, oak-driven fla- biolo, 7% Mourvèdre, 6% Barbera and 2% Shiraz. Nu- 82 Grapes Syrah-Cabernet (Robertson). A vors of cocoa nib and roasted espresso bean while the ances of leather and sweet spice mingle seamlessly with low intensity wine with simple fruit flavors of berry and crushed satin texture fills the mouth with delicate tan- red cherry and fruit cake characteristics; the silky tex- plum and a slight effervescence in the mouth. Indigo nins that linger. Terry Seitz. —L.B. ture and soft tannins carry the earthy notes through the Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $26 close. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $36 Excelsior 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 (Robertson). With 60,000 cases imported, Post House 2007 Penny Black (Stellen- FRANCE this should be an easy find that’s well worth the money. 89 bosch). The high-tone fruit aromas work here, Black currant leaf, dark plum flesh and baked fruitcake lifting the otherwise dark and heady notes of mulled RED BORDEAUX fill out the nose and mouth, while a touch of milk choc- berries, cherry pie filling, cured meat and sweet smoke. olate enriches the finish. Balanced and drinkable now Balanced and ready to drink now with medium weight Château Jean-Faure 2008 Saint-Emilion. with medium weight and approachable tannins. Cape and dusty tannins. The finish shows nice evolution from 91 Rich and ripe, this is a full-bodied wine that has Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. fruit to earthy tobacco and finally coffee. Terry Seitz. great plum and sweet blackberry flavors and good con- abv: 14.5% Price: $10 —L.B. centration. Firm in texture, the dusty tannins giving fur- abv: 15% Price: $30 ther density. For aging over 5–6 years. North Berkeley Fleur Du Cap 2009 Bergkelder Selection Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Western Cape). Vansha 2009 SGMV (Paarl). The SGMV abv: 13.5% Price: $NA This Cab has all of the classic notes one would expect: 89 (Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvèdre-Viognier) is a rich dark berry fruit, black plum skin, cigar tobacco crowd-pleasing style of wine with a very attractive price Château Suau 2009 Côtes de Bordeaux. and black currant leaf are all front and center. The tan- tag. Mocha hits you first on the nose, with secondary 91 A big, dark and perfumed wine, with a good nins are surprisingly firm and tightly structured, but the scents of forest floor, licorice root, bramble and boysen- density of ripe fruits, powerful tannins and layers of nuances of milk chocolate sauce and graham cracker berry unfolding shortly after. The mouth is creamy and spice, acidity and red jelly. It balances weight with crumb add decadence to the finish. Maisons Marques lush and transitions into a beautiful sweet spice-infused freshness to great effect. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —L.B. finish. Cape Ardor LLC. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Château Arnaud 2009 Saint-Estèphe. Tormentoso 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Edgebaston 2009 The Berry Box (Stel- 90 With important flavors of new wood, dusty dry 85 (Paarl). There’s a dusty texture to this wine, 88 lenbosch). The Berry Box is a fitting name tannins and mint, this is a concentrated and powerful reminiscent of freeze-dried and crushed raspberry, for this wine, with its intense core of bright black berry, wine that also has elegance. It is ripe, rich with balanc- black berry and plum pieces. Aromas of menthol and mulberry, raspberry and wild strawberry infused with ing acidity, and ready for aging. Serge Doré Selections. carnation add interest to the nose, while a touch of notes of licorice root and peppery spice. The mouth is Editors’ Choice. —R.V. chocolate sweetens up the palate. Drink now. Vineyard ripe and full but not overpowering with fine-grain tan- abv: 13% Price: $25 Brands. —L.B. nins and a medium length finish. Southern Starz, Inc. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 —L.B. Château Cantinot 2009 Les Tours de Can- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 90 tinot (Premieres Côtes de Blaye). With its Riebeek Cellars 2009 Collection Caber- rich tannins, this wine combines toastiness with swathes 84 net Sauvignon (Swartland). An assertive Rustenberg 2009 R M Nicholson (Stel- of black currant fruits. It has a dusty texture, giving it a menthol streak shines through the dark fruit core, along 88 lenbosch). A heady and intense red blend structured, severe edge for aging. Roberts Fine Wines. with a hint of spice cake. Soft and somewhat flabby on composed mostly of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz Cellar Selection. —R.V. the midpalate; drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B. with touches of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Mal- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $9 bec, this wine offers a seriously firm structure with grip-

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Château Lamothe-Cissac 2006 Haut-Mé- Château Tour de Goua 2009 Cuvée les Château de Ferrand 2007 Saint-Emilion. 90 doc. Now just showing some maturity, the wine 89 Aubarèdes (Haut-Médoc). Ripe wine, fine- 87 A balanced wine, not powerful although well has dense tannins and a firm, dry character. It is concen- ly balanced with good acidity giving the concentrated concentrated with its red berry fruits and dusty tannins. trated, the black fruits laced with fruit skins and acidity. black currant fruit a bright character. Tannins show It has beetroot flavor, acidity and a firm, dry finish. Age Keep for 2–3 years. Saranty Imports. —R.V. well, a dry core layered with juicy fruit. Age for 2–4 for 3–4 years. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $24 Château les Cèdres 2009 Côtes de Château de Parenchère 2008 Cuvée 90 Bourg. Rounded and smooth, this wine has Clos du Roy 2009 Fronsac. Very dark in 87 Raphaël (Bordeaux Supérieur). Black cur- fine acidity to go with its black plum and herbal flavors. 89 color, this supercharged Merlot offers soft ripe rant-dominated wine, all fresh juicy fruit along with bal- The fruit is full in the mouth, richly spiced, while also berry fruits, with plum skin and toast, followed through anced dry tannins. The wood is there, with subtle hints textured with dusty tannins. Worth aging, but delicious- with pepper and spice. It is powerful, concentrated, the of black fruits and acidity. The Country Vintner. —R.V. ly juicy now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. acidity offering some contrasting relief. Bourgeois Fam- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ily Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30 Château le Bonnat 2008 Graves. Well bal- Château les Vimières 2008 Le Tronquera anced wine, perhaps with the wood revealing (Margaux). Dense, attractive, sweet, wood- 87 90 Château Haut-Bellevue 2008 Moulis-en- too much, otherwise with fine red berry and currant laden wine, with ripe black berry fruits and important Médoc. A suave wine, concerned at this stage fruits and dry fruit tannins. It has structure and great fruit tannins. The wine is concentrated, firm, based on 88 with its tannins and not with fruit. It is dry, the black juicy acidity on the finish. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. great fruit and structure. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $65 plum skin texture just giving an opening to black currant abv: 13.5% Price: $20 fruits. All this means that this is a wine for aging—give it Château Cantinot 2009 Premieres Côtes five years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Château l’Espérance 2008 Cuvée Car- 89 de Blaye. Intensely rich, this mint- and red- abv: 13% Price: $35 87 ole (Premieres Côtes de Blaye). Soft wine, fruit-flavored wine is powered by its ripe fruit. The tan- dominated by wood spice and tannins. It has weight, nins give shape to the ripeness, and there’s a line of acid- Château la Tonnelle 2008 Haut-Médoc. which suggests the juicy fruit will show through after ity, concentrated as well as fresh. Roberts Fine Wines. 88 Well structured wine, with herbal and bell a year. Age for 3–4 years. Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V. pepper flavors as well as delicious juicy black currant —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA fruits. The fruit is enclosed in a firm set of tannins, of- abv: 13% Price: $30 fering some aging potential. The finish brings out the Château de Parenchère 2009 Esprit de bright acidity of the vintage. Saranty Imports. Editors’ Château Suau 2009 Cadillac. Warm, soft- 89 Parenchère (Bordeaux Supérieur). Domi- Choice. —R.V. 87 fruited wine, with fine ripe red berry fruits as nated by new wood, this top cuvée from Château de abv: 12.5% Price: $18 well as a gentle tannic structure. There is an earthy Parenchère is certainly too young to drink at this stage. Merlot edge to the blend, along with the more dry tex- Its black, brooding character is very extracted and Château Lamothe-Cissac 2008 Haut- ture of Cabernet. For drinking next year. Kysela Père tough, although there are good hints of juiciness and 88 Médoc. Balanced wine, with well-integrated et Fils. —R.V. sweet berry fruits. The Country Vintner. —R.V. red fruits and dry tannins, offering plenty of fruitiness. abv: 12.5% Price: $27 abv: 14% Price: $30 Structure is important here, but so are the red currant and spice flavors. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Château Bel Enclos 2009 Cuvée Evi- Château Haut Selve 2008 Graves. For full abv: 12.5% Price: $25 86 dence (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Initial- 89 review see page 9. ly dominated by wood, then the ripe jammy fruit comes Château Pey la Tour 2008 Réserve du through to give a soft, rich wine, with bitter chocolate as Château Landat 2006 Haut-Médoc. Richly 88 Château (Bordeaux Supérieur). A finely well as red fruit flavors. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 89 juicy wine, with black plum and damson fruits made wine with big tannins equalled by the rich fruits. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 surrounded by layers of firm, dry tannins. It is struc- The wine has balanced wood character, acidity, great tured, intense, the fruit laced with satisfying acidity. Sa- berry fruits, damsons and a firm, dry core that promises Château Cantinot 2009 Haut Boutet de ranty Imports. —R.V. aging. Dourthe USA. —R.V. Château Cantinot (Premieres Côtes de abv: 13% Price: $20 86 abv: 14% Price: $18 Blaye). Fruity and earthy, this is a spice- and black cur- rant-filled wine. With Malbec in the blend, it has dis- Château les Vimières 2008 Haut-Mé- Château Tanesse 2009 Cadillac Côtes tinct tannins that give shape to the juicy fruit. Roberts doc. Owned by renowned wine consultant 89 de Bordeaux. From a large estate on the Pre- Fine Wines. —R.V. Jacques Boissenot (advisor to most of the Bordeaux 88 mières Côtes de Bordeaux, this wine is powered by abv: NA Price: $NA first growths), this should be exemplary—and it is. It is wood as much as fruit. However, the perfumed black pure black currant fruit, understated yet beautifully bal- anced. The acidity pierces through the dry fruit tannins. fruits will develop to give a good balance, the acidity Château de Launay 2005 Les Vignes de The wine finishes with just a hint of wood. Serge Doré cutting in to give a fresher finish. Serge Doré Selections. 86 Julia (Bordeaux Supérieur). With a few Selections. —R.V. —R.V. years in bottle, this is maturing well. It has ripeness, the abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $NA tannins beginning to soften into rich spice and damson jelly flavors. The acidity is still very present as is the dry Château Suau 2008 Côtes de Bordeaux. Château Bonnet 2008 Bordeaux. Always core. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 89 Structured wine, with juicy black currant and 87 a great value, this warm and fruity wine is im- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA red berry fruits, layered with important tannins. It’s bal- mediately accessible and drinkable. It has fine red ber- anced, pierced with great fresh acidity as well as a more ry fruits, a good core of tannins and just the right fruit Château de Parenchère 2009 Bordeaux mineral texture. Finely made, it needs another two acidity. Drink now. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. 86 Supérieur. Packed with dry tannins and a years aging. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. —R.V. dense structure, here is a wine that has weight and po- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA tential richness. There is some good weight of black-

WineMag.com | 31 berry fruits. If drinking now, it needs to open out in a Château Roquevieille 2008 Côtes de Château Bonnet 2010 Bordeaux Rosé. decanter or glass. The Country Vintner. —R.V. 84 Castillon. Fine-grained tannins course 84 Bright, crisp wine with flavors of caramel, straw- abv: 14% Price: $14 through this wine. It has good juicy currant fruits along berries and some sweetness. The wine finishes with at- with acidity. It feels lightweight, without great concen- tractive acidity. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. Château des Combes 2009 Bordeaux. tration, but is certainly immediately attractive. Saranty abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 86 Benefiting from the ripe 2009 fruit, this shows Imports. —R.V. the attractive character of many value Bordeaux wines abv: 13% Price: $NA Château de Parenchère 2010 Bordeaux in this year. It has red plum fruits, touched with raisins 83 Clairet. Darker in color than normal rosé, Bor- along with toast, acidity and a balance of tannins. Planet Maison Duhard 2009 Baron des Char- deaux Clairet also has more richness. This wine is con- Wine. —R.V. 84 trons Bordeaux. The Chartrons is the neigh- centrated with vanilla and sweet strawberry flavors, al- abv: 13% Price: $14 borhood of Bordeaux where the wine merchants tradi- though with a lack of freshness. Treat this is as a red tionally worked. This branded Bordeaux is softly ripe, wine. The Country Vintner. —R.V. Château des Demoiselles 2009 Castil- with an attractive density along with a dry core of tan- abv: 14% Price: $10 85 lon Côtes de Bordeaux. Dense tannins and nins. Ready to drink now. Cannon Wines Limited. a solid, chunky character suggest a wine with richness. —R.V. The black fruits are concentrated, with juiciness com- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 WHITE BORDEAUX ing through over time. It has the ripe power of the 2009 vintage. Laville Imports. —R.V. Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2009 Château Haut Selve 2010 Graves. For full abv: 13.5% Price: $18 83 Bordeaux. Very soft wine, with gentle berry 89 review see page 8. fruit flavors, cinnamon and a light, ripe character. Black Château Lagrave Paran 2008 Cuvée currant fruits emerge from the light texture with an at- Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2010 85 Géraldine (Bordeaux Supérieur). An aus- tractive tannic layer. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 88 Entre-Deux-Mers. Ripe and herbaceous, tere, tannic wine that will need a few years to develop. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 there is a great zing to this wine. It has crisp grapefruit It has solid tannins that are layered over the fresh berry and lemon flavors, pushing through the green apple skin and currant fruits. A smoky hint gives the wine extra Château Moulin de Canhaut 2007 Mé- texture. A real seafood wine. Baystate Wine & Spirits. character. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 83 doc. Dry and light, an unfocused wine. It has Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA tannins, only light fruit, very dry and ultimately tough. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Château Landat 2008 Haut-Médoc. Struc- abv: 13% Price: $25 Château de Parenchère 2010 Bordeaux 85 tured and fruity, this has black currant flavors, 88 Blanc. Attractive wine, boasting a good bal- dry tannins and a definite wood-aged feel. It is elegant, Château de Parenchère 2008 Esprit de ance between herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc and a more not powerful, opening slowly to reveal its fine fruit and 82 Parenchère (Bordeaux Supérieur). Heavi- perfumed character from Muscadelle. It has a creamy acidity. Saranty Imports. —R.V. ly wooded wine, so dry, with the fruit lost in all the burnt character along with intense acidity, leaving a fresh taste abv: 12.5% Price: $20 toast character. It’s all too much for the fresh style of in the mouth. The Country Vintner. Best Buy. —R.V. 2008. The Country Vintner. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11 Château Moulin de Canhaut 2008 Mé- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 85 doc. On the austere side, this shows more tan- Château le Bonnat 2010 Graves. Ripe, nin than fruit, based around a dry core that has spread Château de Virecourt 2009 Bordeaux. 88 fruity wine, pushing at the tropical fruit end of through the wine. There is some black plum skin and 82 Dry, dark-hued tannins cut through the wine, the spectrum. The flavors are creamy, touched by wood, black currant fruit, but it is hard to find. Serge Doré giving it a bitter feel. It is tough, firm, missing the bal- and deliciously ripe. Age for a year. Baron Francois Ltd. Selections. —R.V. ancing fruit. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $18

Château Roc Meynard 2009 Bordeaux Château Moulin de Canhaut 2006 Mé- Dourthe 2010 La Grande Cuvée (Bor- 85 Supérieur. Ripe, fruity wine, it has sweet tan- 81 doc. Already showing signs of aging, this is 88 deaux Blanc). Packed with great Sauvignon nins, blackberry fruit, laced with acidity. The wine is hard, dry and tough. Not much pleasure there. Serge Blanc herbal flavors, this is a delicious wine, at the cool all fruit, with only the lightest hint of wood. Bourgeois Doré Selections. —R.V. end of the spectrum of white wine. Grapefruit and lem- Family Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 on juice are enlivened by a grassy texture and crisp, abv: 14% Price: $15 fresh acidity. Dourthe USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Château Cadillac 2009 Cuvée J.J. Les- 84 gourges (Bordeaux Supérieur). As its BORDEAUX ROSÉ Château Bonnet 2010 Bordeaux Blanc. 14.5% indicates, this is a particularly rich wine. Maybe 86 Soft, ripe, cleanly made wine. It has some of too rich, because it is all superripe black fruit without Château Suau 2010 Bordeaux Rosé. For the herbaceous character of many white Bordeaux, but the balance of structure or acidity. Enjoy it as a block- 85 a Bordeaux rosé, this is fresh and delicious in a toned down and given warmth by a sweetly perfumed buster, probably not with food. Baron Francois Ltd. light, fruity style, and immediately appealing. Not for aftertaste. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. —R.V. aging, of course, but with a good touch of acidity as well abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $17 as vanilla. Screwcap. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13 Château Suau 2010 Bordeaux Blanc. Soft, Château de Parenchère 2009 Cuvée 85 open wine, with some attractive perfumed char- 84 Raphaël (Bordeaux Supérieur). Should Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2010 Bor- acter as well as light acidity. It is somewhat unfocused, Bordeaux be 14%? Maybe, but not this wine. It is too 84 deaux Rosé. Light, fresh, raspberry-flavored missing structure. Screwcap. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. big, dry, tannin-dominated and heavy. There is way too wine, with a hint of spice and great lines of acidity. The abv: 12.5% Price: $13 much extraction, and it shows in the bitter character. wine is fruity, delicious. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. The Country Vintner. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $20

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2011 SWEET BORDEAUX easy-drinking Pinot Grigio and this vintage of the popu- bouquet of this luminous and bright Pinot Grigio. That lar white lives up to its past reputation. Aromas of cit- fruity note adds a sweet sensation to the nose followed Château Suau 2009 Cadillac. Billed as a rus, pear and white flower are followed by a clean, crisp by aromas of passion fruit and citrus. Rolar. —M.L. 85 dessert wine, this is in fact more of an apéritif mouthfeel. Terlato Wines International. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $15 wine, with its botrytis sweetness muted by a soft, open abv: 12.5% Price: $NA character. It has ripe apricot flavors, hints of honey and Antica Corte 2010 White Blend (Delle a tang of orange peel. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Peter Zemmer 2010 Pinot Bianco (Alto 85 Venezie). A luminous blend of Garganega abv: 14% Price: $31/500 ml 85 Adige). This light and simple expression of Pi- (80%) and Pinot Grigio, this easy-drinking Italian white not Bianco (a grape capable of producing very sophis- would pair with tuna salad or sushi. Floral fragrances ticated wines) opens with sweet candy aromas, soda are enhanced by a steady, but compact mouthfeel. Sa- ITALIAN WHITES or lemon drop. It offers a clean, crisp aftertaste and a ranty Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. streamlined style. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10 ALTO ADIGE abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Esperto 2009 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene- Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2010 Pinot Gri- 85 zie). Easy and informal, this is exactly the style 90 gio (Alto Adige). It’s hard to imagine Pinot COLLI ORIENTALI DEL of wine you’ll want to pour with family and friends at, Grigio better than this. Fresh, creamy and packed tight FRIULI say, an outdoor picnic or barbecue. Packaged in a screw- with cool-climate aromas of white flower, citrus and cap bottle, the wine offers aromas of melon, citrus and fresh peach, the wine pairs beautifully with spicy Thai Guerra Albano 2010 Pinot Grigio (Colli pear. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.L. or Vietnamese dishes. Enotec Imports, Inc. Best Buy. 87 Orientali del Friuli). Zesty aromas of stone abv: 13% Price: $NA —M.L. fruit and fresh citrus characterize the pretty nose of this abv: 14% Price: $15 easy-drinking Pinot Grigio. There’s a touch of creami- ness in the mouth that would pair with chicken curry or GAVI Josef Weger 2010 Pinot Bianco (Alto spicy Thai rolls. Solstars Inc. —M.L. 88 Adige). The bi-lingual Italian-German label abv: 13% Price: $20 La Scolca 2000 D’Antan Cortese (Gavi). reads Pinot Bianco and Weissburgunder. Once in your 90 This is a unique expression of Gavi (from the glass, this fresh and luminous white wine offers lovely La Viarte 2010 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Ori- far-away 2000 vintage) that shows the extraordinary ag- layers of stone fruit, grapefruit and pear that wash clean 87 entali del Friuli). Aged in stainless steel for ing potential of this lively white wine. The elegance is all over the palate. Magellan Wine Imports. —M.L. a fresh, zesty feel, this tangy Ribolla Gialla offers aro- in the aging. Stone fruit and floral notes are enhanced abv: 13% Price: $20 mas of peach, mature melon and Golden Delicious ap- by white mineral, smoky ash and dried lemon zest. The ple. The wine is smooth and creamy and would make a wine is fresh and crisp with a sour almond note on the St. Pauls 2008 St. Justina Exclusiv perfect match to spicy appetizers. Kermit Lynch Wine close. This wine won’t appeal to everyone. Frederick 88 Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige). St. Justina Merchant. —M.L. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. is a gorgeously fragrant and lively wine that delivers a abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA steady stream of aromas from lemon blossom to honey- suckle and jasmine. It’s hard to beat the beauty of this Teresa Raiz 2008 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Ori- Coppo 2009 La Rocca Cortese (Gavi). bouquet. Plan to pair this wine with fragrant Thai or 87 entali del Friuli). This luminous, golden Ri- 87 Gavi is a fantastically fresh and luminous white Vietnamese dishes. Tesori Wines. —M.L. bolla Gialla offers aromas of butterscotch and honey- wine from Piedmont in northern Italy that offers tonic, abv: 14% Price: $29 suckle that are very true to this unique grape variety. compact aromas of stone fruit, honey and cantaloupe The wine’s creamy structure would stand up to Indian melon. There’s a softness in the mouth that is soon fol- Tiefenbrunner 2010 Pinot Bianco (Alto curry chicken or Chinese fried rice. 1_ No Submitting lowed by refreshing zest. Winebow. —M.L. 88 Adige). With fish, salad or spicy vegetarian Company. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 fare, you absolutely can’t go wrong with a wine like this. abv: 13% Price: $NA An expression of Pinot Bianco (or Weissburgunder in Principessa Gavia 2010 Cortese (Gavi). German), the grape offers more heft and weight in the Villa Rubini 2010 Sauvignon (Colli Orien- 86 Light and fresh with a cooling, crisp consistency, mouth and subtle, but steady aromas of pear and white 86 tali del Friuli). This fresh Sauvignon with its this luminous white wine would pair nicely with spicy peach. Winebow. —M.L. pretty aromas of citrus, tomato leaf and kiwi is aged for Indian or Mexican appetizers. Aromas of white flower, abv: 13% Price: $15 eight months on yeast to produce a creamy mouthfeel stone fruit and sweet apricot appear on the close. Banfi that is dense and long-lasting considering the easy pa- Vintners. —M.L. Josef Brigl 2010 Sielo Blu Pinot Grigio rameters of this aromatic grape variety. U.S. Wine Im- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 87 (Alto Adige). This fresh and food-friendly Pi- ports. —M.L. not Grigio opens with delicate floral notes of white rose abv: 13% Price: $16 and almond blossom followed by exotic fruit and citrus. MARCHE The balanced acidity would pair with chicken salad and mayonnaise. Admiral Imports. —M.L. DELLE VENEZIE Il Conte 2009 Villa Prandone Cavaceppo abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 Passerina (Marche). Forget Pinot Grigio Tommasi 2010 Il Grigio Ramato Pinot and try this wonderful white wine from Central Italy. Kupelwieser 2010 Pinot Grigio (Alto 87 Grigio (Delle Venezie). Copper-colored Pi- Passerina, a little-known native grape, offers crisp sassi- 87 Adige). Here’s a light and bright cool-climate not Grigios like this expression from Tommasi make a ness and bright aromas of kiwi, citrus and passion fruit. Pinot Grigio that would pair with seafood salad, tuna cheerful addition to Chinese take-out dinners or easy There’s loads of fresh personality here. Masciarelli Wine tartar or steamed mussels. The wine offers cool crisp- home-cooked meals. This creamy wine offers aromas of Co. —M.L. ness backed by citrus, peach and fresh apple flavors. 1_ peach, citrus and white almond. Rolar. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA No Submitting Company. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Capestrano 2008 Passerina (Marche). Tommasi 2010 Le Rosse Pinot Grigio 85 This bright white wine opens with a touch of Santa Margherita 2010 Pinot Grigio (Alto 86 (Delle Venezie). There’s a really nice point of crushed mint or basil followed by fruity tones of peach, 87 Adige). Santa Margherita wrote the book on mature peach or apricot that emerges from the fragrant citrus and peach. It’s an easy, compact wine that would

WineMag.com | 33 wash down well with steamed mussels or baked clams. OTHER WHITES and fried finger foods. Fresh aromas of citrus, peach, Vias Imports. —M.L. kiwi and white minerals characterize the lively bouquet. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Lis Neris 2009 La Vila Friulano (Friuli Saranty Imports. —M.L. 90 Isonzo). From a special vineyard selection, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 this gorgeous Friulano has the nature heft and creami- SICILIA ness to pair with risotto and scampi or spaghetti with Sandro de Bruno 2007 Superiore Durel- clams. The elegant aromas recall honeysuckle, peach 86 lo (Monti Lessini). Here’s an easy, fresh wine Planeta 2009 Carricante (Sicilia). For full and white melon and the wine leaves a very clean and with loads of stone fruit and citrus backed by accents 90 review see page 8. lasting impression. Lis Neris Estates. —M.L. of chopped mint and spearmint. The wine shows good abv: 13% Price: $28 structure and could pair with Atlantic fish or grilled cod. Calatrasi 2010 Terre di Ginestra BlanQ Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. 87 (Sicilia). BlanQ advertises itself as the perfect Falesco 2007 Ferentano Roscetto abv: 13.5% Price: $22 aperitivo, or cocktail wine, and this billing is right on 89 (Lazio). Ferentano is a luscious and rich white the money. The bouquet is redolent of summer flowers, wine that shows enough structure and staying power Sella & Mosca 2008 La Cala (Vermentino melon and peach and there’s a nice creaminess here, to pair with roast pork or turkey and gravy. It boasts a 86 di Gallura). La Cala is a fun and easy expres- provoked in part by the Sicilian sunshine. Supreme round, soft and supple texture backed by thick density. sion of Vermentino from the sunny island of Sardinia Wines & Spirits. —M.L. Winebow. —M.L. that shows bright citrus notes backed by tones of honey- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $23 suckle and wild sage. Pair this wine with fried calamari. Palm Bay International. —M.L. Firriato 2009 Chiaramonte Ansonica (Si- Lis Neris 2009 Picol Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12.5% Price: $14 87 cilia). Chiaramonte is an easy, refreshing ex- 89 (Friuli Isonzo). This beautiful edition of Pi- pression of Ansonica (one of Sicily’s most celebrated na- col (100% Sauvignon Blanc) opens a specifically Italian Terra d’Aligi 2009 Pecorino (Terre di Chi- tive white grape varieties) that would pair with most fish perspective onto this aromatic grape variety. Aromas of 86 eti). Here’s a Best Buy white wine that would -or vegetable-based dishes. The wine finishes with cool chopped sage, citrus and tomato leaf segue to smooth pair with salads, vegetable dishes and appetizers. It’s crispness. Soilair Selection. —M.L. roundness and long persistency in the mouth. Lis Neris crisp and luminous with lively aromas of citrus, lemon abv: 13% Price: $18 Estates. —M.L. zest, stone fruit and melon. Pecorino is one of Italy’s abv: 14% Price: $28 hottest varieties on the indigenous grape scene. Fran- coli USA. Best Buy. —M.L. UMBRIA Il Conte 2009 Villa Prandone Navicchio abv: 13.5% Price: $11 87 (Offida Pecorino).Pecorino is a very trendy Barberani 2008 Grechetto (Umbria). indigenous Italian grape that fully deserves all the atten- Valle Reale 2009 Vigneto Vigne Nu- 86 Grechetto makes for a wonderful alternative tion is has recently earned thanks to its natural structure 86 ove (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). Trebbiano to Pinot Grigio for lovers of fresh, easy Italian whites. and easy drinkability. The wine boasts aromas of honey- d’Abruzzo is a white wine that delivers both structure Citrus and stone fruit aromas are followed by drying suckle and apricot and would pair with white meat or and freshness wrapped around a core of pear, white mineral tones and a zesty, clean close. Vinifera Imports. fish. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. flower and peach. This expression from the historic Val- —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA le Reale winery does a very nice job of living up to the abv: 13.5% Price: $NA grape’s food-friendly reputation. Winebow. Best Buy. La Casa Dell’Orco 2010 (Fiano di Avel- —M.L. Lungarotti 2009 Pinot Grigio (Umbria). 87 lino). A popular choice in Rome and southern abv: 12.5% Price: $11 86 This sun soaked-Pinot Grigio from Umbria in Italy, Fiano di Avellino is a perfect seafood and shellfish central Italy focuses on ripe aromas of peach and pink white wine. There’s crispness and brightness here, all grapefruit. It’s a crisp, luminous white wine packaged backed by easy pear, peach and citrus aromas. Bedford SWEET WINE in a very modern and attractive transparent bottle. Vin International. —M.L. Divino. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20 I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano 2010 (Mosca- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 87 to d’Asti). I Vignaioli makes one of the best Teresa Raiz 2009 Vigneti Le Marsure Moscato d’Astis around, and one that is commonly 87 Chardonnay (Venezia Giulia). This is a found in retail outlets across the USA. This sweet and VENEZIE plush, ripe and rich Chardonnay from northeast Ita- delicate dessert wine opens with a luminous color, soft ly with pretty aromas of exotic and passion fruits, yel- bubbling and sweet flavors of honey, jasmine and peach. Duca del Frassino 2010 Garganega-Pinot low flower and papaya. It shows creamy density in the Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L. 85 Grigio (Venezie). The equivalent of four bot- mouth and can stand up to shellfish or grilled tuna. abv: 5.5% Price: $24 tles of wine, this well-priced boxed white blend of Gar- —M.L. ganega and Pinot Grigio opens with fragrant aromas of abv: 13% Price: $NA white flowers, stone fruit and honeysuckle. The wine is ROSATO fresh, easy and crisp on the close. MW Imports. —M.L. Venica & Venica 2008 Pinot Bianco (Col- abv: 12% Price: $20/3 L 87 lio). This is a naturally rich and creamy expres- Tommasi 2009 Bardolino Chiaretto. Bar- sion of Pinot Bianco that shows power, determination 84 dolino Chiaretto is an elegant and delicate wine Duca del Frassino 2010 Durello-Char- and persistence (at 14% alcohol). Aromas include ma- with pretty highlights of rose, raspberry and sweet cas- 84 donnay (Venezie). This 80-20 blend of Du- ture melon and stone fruit and the wine would pair with sis berry. The wine shows a soft, yielding nature in the rello (a native Italian grape) and Chardonnay opens with spicy exotic foods such as Thai beef with cilantro and mouth with a touch of crisp acidity on the close. Rolar. lively tones of stone fruit, white flower and honey. The green chili. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. —M.L. wine is thin and short on the close, but also very refresh- abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $12 ing and easy to drink overall. MW Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $20/3 L Giacomo Vico 2010 Donna Anita Arneis 86 (Langhe). Donna Anita is a crisp and luminous white wine that would be a great match to appetizers

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 ITALIAN REDS fruit nuances of blackberry and plum followed by wet from northern Italy offers linear and elegant aromas of earth and spice. There’s a rustic but genuine feel to this small berry, blackberry, spice and crushed black pep- ALTO ADIGE wine. Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —M.L. per. There’s both firmness and freshness that would pair abv: 13.5% Price: $12 with succulent red meat. Vias Imports. —M.L. Alois Lageder 2005 Krafuss Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $22 92 (Alto Adige). This excellent edition of Kra- Calatrasi 2010 Terrale Oro Syrah (Sicil- fuss (an oak-aged Pinot Noir from Italy’s pioneering 85 ia). This Sicilian Syrah shows ripe fruit aromas Suberli 2009 (Morellino di Scansano). bio­dynamic winemaker) opens with vibrant aromas of of red cherry, blueberry and succulent spice. It’s a plush, 89 One of the best Morellinos on the market, Su- small berries and toasted nut that emerge in a vertical chewy wine with mature flavors of blackberry jam. Vi- berli offers a plush and rich expression of Sangiovese and immediate manner. The intensity is wonderful and sion Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.L. from southern Tuscany with sun-kissed aromas of ripe it’s so much fun to follow the wine’s ever-changing evo- abv: 13% Price: $10 blackberry and cherry. The wine finishes with a soft, lution in the glass. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Cellar spicy close. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 VALPOLICELLA Pieropan 2006 Ruberpan (Rosso del Ve- Andriano 2009 Santa Maddalena (Alto Tommasi 2009 Valpolicella Classico Su- 88 ronese). Really a Valpolicella blend (with Cor- 87 Adige). A food-friendly blend of Schiava and 89 periore Ripasso. A bright note of spice that vina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes), Ruberpan offers Lagrein (two native grapes of northern Italy) this ruby- resembles crushed clove or cinnamon opens the nose pretty berry intensity and ruby luminosity. Bright aro- colored wine opens with a lean consistency and medium of this pretty Ripasso from northern Italy. The sweet mas of blackberry, spice and cola complete the picture. build. It shows cool-climate aromas of small forest fruit smelling, generous bouquet is followed by rich struc- Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. and blue flowers with a touch of white almond on the ture and a touch of bitterness. Rolar. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30 close. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $17 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2008 Pieropan 2008 Ruberpan (Valpolicella 86 Poggio Stella Merlot (Cortona). This easy 88 Superiore). Ruberpan is a Valpolicella Supe- Poggio Stella Merlot is redolent of black cherry, ma- AMARONE riore blend from the new estate of Soave’s Pieropan ture raspberry and currants. It’s aged in oak casks for producer. The ruby colored wine opens with cinnamon, six months to add a playful touch of spice and toast. Tommasi 2007 Amarone della Valpolicel- spice, black fruit, soya, cured meat and crushed pepper Pair this well-priced Italian wine with grilled sausage or 92 la Classico. This is a generous and dense Am- aromas. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. meatloaf. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. arone with pretty layers of ripe fruit, cola, spice and ce- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $13 dar, which overlap in a harmonious and integrated man- ner. The wine shows intensity and good depth of mature fruit flavors on the finish. Rolar. —M.L. VENEZIE PORTUGUESE WHITES abv: 15% Price: $75 Cantina di Soave 2010 Re Midas Corvina OTHER WHITES Pieropan 2008 Vigna Garzon (Amarone 86 (Venezie). Here’s an easy Italian wine (made 89 della Valpolicella). From famed Soave pro- with the native Corvina grape) that occupies a space Quinta do Carneiro 2009 Branco (Alen- ducer Pieropan, Amarone Vigna Garzon opens with a somewhere between red wine and rosé. You could eas- 85 quer). Light and fragrant, a perfumed wine, light, compact style and aromas of blackberry, dried ily serve Re Midas chilled and pair it with hamburger or with flavors of almond and refreshing acidity. It feels rosemary and black pepper. The wine shows sweet fruit pizza. MW Imports. —M.L. warm, with pear and lime flavors combining well. Luiz’s flavors on the close. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. abv: 16% Price: $76 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Duca del Frassino 2009 Cabernet-Corvi- 84 na (Venezie). A 80-20 blend of Cabernet and PUGLIA Corvina (a native grape of northern Italy), this refresh- ALENTEJO ing red wine opens with a lively ruby color and simple La Corte 2008 Solyss Negroamaro (Pug- aromas of berry fruit and red rose petal. Pair this wine Luis Duarte 2009 Rubrica Branco (Alen- 87 lia). Solyss is a pure expression of Negroamaro with picnic foods such as grilled sausage or hamburger. 93 tejano). The wine has power and considerable that offers mature berry and dark fruit aromas with an MW Imports. —M.L. wood flavors at this young stage. It also has concentra- earthy layer of exotic spice at the back. Pair this wine abv: 12.5% Price: $20/3 L tion of white and yellow fruits, well laced with acidity. with marinated pork barbecue. Grape Expectations Powerful while always balanced and stylish. Laurel Im- (CA). —M.L. Duca del Frassino 2009 Merlot-Pinot porters. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 84 Noir (Venezie). A friendly and informal blend abv: 14% Price: $25 of Merlot and Pinot Noir, this 3-liter boxed wine from Matané 2009 Negroamaro (Puglia). A northern Italy would make a perfect companion at out- Luis Duarte 2009 Rapariga da Quinta 87 pure expression of the hearty Negroamaro door picnics or baseball games. It’s a light and refresh- 92 Branco (Alentejano). Intense wood-aged grape from Puglia (the “heel of the boot of Italy”), this ing wine with crisp flavors of red berries and pressed wine, with tropical fruits over the toast and layer of dark and syrupy wine opens with earthy notes of pipe violets. MW Imports. —M.L. acidity. It’s impressive, with a fine balance of all the el- tobacco and dark chocolate followed by ripe fruit and abv: 12.5% Price: $20/3 L ements—richness and elegance. Give the wine a year blackberry. There’s a plush, slightly soft texture in the to fully integrate. Laurel Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. mouth. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 OTHER REDS Quinta do Quetzal 2009 Reserva Bran- La Corte 2008 Red Blend (Salice Salen- Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga 2006 91 co (Alentejo). Toasty, rich and smooth wine, 87 tino). This bright Salice Salentino (an 80-20 89 Terre di San Leonardo (Vigneti delle Do- its mango and grapefruit flavors rounded and full. It’s a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera) shows dark lomiti). With crisp mountain fruit, this Bordeaux blend

WineMag.com | 35 concentrated wine that is still finding all its complex ele- ing layers of complex flavors. Ibanez Pleven Offerings. Quinta das Maias 2010 Branco (Dão). A ments, so age for 2–3 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V. —R.V. 86 blend of six varieties, this is a perfumed wine, abv: 14% Price: $38 abv: 13% Price: $NA with flavors of wood aging to go with the yellow fruits. and a soft, rounded mouthfeel. Wineworth LLC. —R.V. Herdade dos Grous 2010 Branco (Alen- Luis Pato 2009 Vinhas Velhas (Beiras). abv: 13.5% Price: $9 90 tejano). Beautifully rounded wine, with just 90 Showing some of the warmth of 2009, as well a hint of vanilla to go with the peach and watermelon as the concentration of old vines, this is a rich wine with flavors, ripe plums and delicate acidity. Worth aging al- pure pear and melon fruits and balanced acidity. It’s DOURO though ready to drink now. The Barterhouse. Editors’ stylish, ready to drink, but could age for another year. Choice. —R.V. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Sobredos 2009 Aneto Branco Reserva abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $NA 91 (Douro). With more than a hint of wood, this is a spicy, rounded wine that feels rich and smooth tex- Herdade dos Grous 2009 Branco Reser- Filipa Pato 2010 Bical-Arinto (Beiras). tured. With Sémillon in the blend with local Douro 89 va (Alentejano). A superrich wine, full of new 87 A smooth yet still zesty wine, with lemon and grapes, there is a full-bodied feel to this serious wine. wood flavors, with cinnamon and other spices. It is im- peach flavors, reveling in its freshness and rounded cor- Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. pressive, almost too much in its intense flavors. It does ners. The wine, with its light and crisp feel, is for drink- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA need to age for at least a year. The Barterhouse. —R.V. ing now. Screwcap. Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $21 Wines & Winemakers 2009 Lua Cheia em 91 Vinhas Velhas Reserva (Douro). Wood- J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Vila Santa Reser- Caves Aliança 2010 Galeria Bical (Bair- aged wine, smooth and rich. The yellow fruits domi- 89 va Branco (Alentejano). Spiced with wood 84 rada). An earthy wine, softly fruity, with can- nate the light hint of toast, with the concentration of old and nutmeg, this elegant, fruity wine has red apple, taloupe melon and pear flavors. It’s simple, attractive, vines giving extra complexity. Wine Without Borders. green plum and pineapple flavors, rounded and soft. light. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: NA Price: $20 Castro Pena Alba 2008 Duvalley Grande Quinta do Quetzal 2010 Guadalupe Bran- DÃO 90 Reserva Branco (Douro). While there are 88 co (Alentejano). Think freshly cut pineapple considerable flavors of wood aging here, this creamy and you have this wine. It is dry but rich with tropical Alvaro Castro 2009 Quinta da Pellada white is more concentrated on ripe plum and apricot fruits that are cut through by a line of citrus. The tex- 93 (Dão). A field blend of old vines from Castro’s fruits, with attractive acidity and forward fruitiness. It ture offers a limpid, refreshing feel. Laurel Importers. Quinta da Pellada, this is an impressively rich and con- has weight and also a stylish feel to it. Wine Enterprises —R.V. centrated wine from a warm vintage. The fruit is ripe, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 with peach and mango flavors, the acidity laced with this abv: 12.5% Price: $NA richness. A hint of wood adds further complexity. Laurel J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Marquês de Bor- Importers. —R.V. Quinta de la Rosa 2010 Branco (Douro). 86 ba Branco (Alentejo). The white version of abv: 13% Price: $72 90 Ripe wood-aged wine that has creamy toast and this popular Portuguese brand is soft, ripe and warmly full fruit flavors within a firm structure of acidity and a fruity. Flavors are of fresh apples and green plums, with Alvaro Castro 2010 Branco Reserva tight mineral texture. It’s full-flavored, the fruit right up a lacing of lime juice. Signature Imports. —R.V. 90 (Dão). The wood-aged white from Alvaro Cas- front, all richness and final shining acidity. Vinum Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $15 tro is a great swathe of rich tropical fruits, a smooth Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V. structure, fruity but with the edge of mineral terroir and abv: 13% Price: $NA J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Loios Branco an intense density of flavor. Laurel Importers. —R.V. 85 (Alentejano). Attractive, softly fruity wine, abv: 13% Price: $26 Quinta de São José 2010 Azeo (Douro). with some citrus character as well as pear and apple 90 A delicious lemon- and apricot-flavored wine, juice. It is crisp, fresh, ready to drink. Winebow. Best Garrida 2010 Quinta da Garrida Reserva smooth and richly textured. There is a taut, edgy char- Buy. —R.V. 90 Branco Encruzado (Dão). Delicious creamy acter that keeps the wine structured as well as freshly abv: 12.5% Price: $10 wood-aged wine, elegant and aromatic. Flavors swirl fruity. For keeping a year. Laurel Importers. —R.V. easily here from red apples to lemon to a touch of pine- abv: 13% Price: $25 apple. It is ripe while also very fresh. The finish is round, BEIRAS the wood hints showing through. Winebow. —R.V. Quinta das Bandeiras 2010 Passagem abv: 13% Price: $15 89 (Douro). A gorgeously ripe wine, a product of Aveleda 2009 Grande Follies Vinhas da the warm vineyards of the upper Douro, giving tropical 93 Quinta da Agueira (Bairrada). Wood-aged Alvaro Castro 2010 Dão. Rounded, oily- fruit, pineapple and peach. The acidity is there to bal- wine, this combines toast with fine acidity, rounded and 89 textured wine, rich and ripe. Pear, peach and ance, with its apple skin texture. Vinum Wine Importing ripe fruit and great elegance. Dried apricots, melon, ap- melon flavors give the fruitiness, while the steely edge and Distributing LLC. —R.V. ples and peach are a feast of fruit, all subsumed into a adds structure and gives the wine a fine tension. Laurel abv: 13.5% Price: $NA finely balanced rich whole. Worth aging for 2–3 years. Importers. —R.V. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21 Duorum 2010 Tons de Duorum Branco abv: 13% Price: $40 88 (Douro). Herbal wine, with green plum fruits Castro Pena Alba 2010 Serrado (Dão). laced with basil and chive flavors. The wine has a miner- Filipa Pato 2009 Nossa Branco Bical 88 Ripe yellow fruits dominate this fruity wine. al edge to it, its fruit under tension from the acidity and 91 (Beiras). Rich and rounded, this is an impres- With its bright acidity, peach and apricot fruits and a bright aftertaste. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. sive ripe wine, its almond and green plum flavors giv- citric finish, it is fresh and ready to drink. Wine Enter- abv: 13% Price: $10 en great concentration. It is unctuous, smooth, reveal- prises LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Wines & Winemakers 2010 Lua Cheia em 88 Vinhas Velhas Branco (Douro). Made from

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 old vines (vinhas velhas), this wine has good concentra- fruit coming right to the front. Dionysos Imports Inc. while still dancing on the palate. FJN Fine Wines LLC. tion of green and citrus fruits. There is a tang of lime Best Buy. —R.V. —R.V. zest, giving a cool, fresh feel and acidity. Drink now, or abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: 11.5% Price: $12 keep a year. Marquee Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14 Quinta de Sant’Anna 2010 Branco Fernão 88 Pires (Lisboa). Apple-flavored wine, as fresh SETUBAL Quevedo 2010 Oscar’s Branco (Douro). as can be and with some attractive spice and vanilla fla- 87 Smooth, oily-textured ripe wine, stylish and fla- vors. The acidity is finely balanced to give an ultrafresh Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Cova vorsome. The melon and apple flavors are counterbal- wine. Laurel Importers. —R.V. 92 da Ursa Chardonnay (Setubal). This single anced by a rich acidity, a dense structure and a vanilla abv: 13.5% Price: $23 -vineyard Chardonnay has a rich, New World feel to it. hint. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. The new wood is very present, as well as the tropical abv: 12% Price: $13 DFJ Vinhos 2010 Casa do Lago Branco fruit and spice flavors. It is a rounded, powerful wine, 86 (Lisboa). Full-bodied, spicy wine. It has a ripe, maybe too oaked at this stage. but likely to balance out Quinta de la Rosa 2010 Dourosa Branco toast and apple flavor and a smooth texture, with light in a year. Admiral Imports. —R.V. 86 (Douro). Grassy, herbaceous wine, with citrus acidity. The wine is dry while also soft. Dionysos Im- abv: 14% Price: $NA and gooseberry fruits and a refreshing tang of acidity. It ports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. is light to feel, bursting with fresh fruits, very crisp and abv: 13% Price: $9 Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Cata- green. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. 91 rina (Setubal). With its new wood flavors, this —R.V. DFJ Vinhos 2010 Coreto Branco (Lis- is a ripe wine with a Chardonnay-like richness. It has an abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 85 boa). Rounded, soft creamy wine, attractively opulent feel, flavors of white currants and vanilla com- fruity with yellow fruits and bright acidity. It’s easy, the bining easily with a lighter, fresher acidity. Admiral Im- Symington Family Estates 2010 Altano freshness naturally integrated with the soft fruit. Screw- ports. Best Buy. —R.V. 86 Branco (Douro). The white is a welcome ad- cap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 dition to the Altano range. This fresh lemon-and pine- abv: 12% Price: $6 apple-flavored wine has an almost Sauvignon Blanc her- Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 Quinta baceousness to it, while showing plenty of ripe fruit. DFJ Vinhos 2010 Point West (Lisboa). 91 da Bacalhôa Branco (Setubal). The estate There is a refreshing aftertaste. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 85 Full honey- and melon-flavored wine, with a vineyard of Bacalhôa has produced this rich, smooth- abv: 12% Price: $NA soft-textured character. It is full of ripe red apples, well textured wine. It has been wood aged, giving a bal- made, if internationally anonymous. Dionysos Imports anced feel on the palate. The wine is dense, full of rich Borges 2010 Lello Branco (Douro). Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. fruits as well as spice and a rounded texture. Age for 84 Smooth, rounded wine, with vanilla, ripe pear abv: 12.5% Price: $9 2–3 years, or drink now. Admiral Imports. Cellar Se- and a bitter herbal finish. The wine feels fat, unfocused. lection. —R.V. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. Dao Sul 2010 Cortello Branco (Lisboa). abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 84 A blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires, this is very aromatic, full of citrus flavors, crisp and clean. Light, Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 JP refreshing, quaffing wine. Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Li- 87 Azeitão Branco (Setubal). Perfumed, floral LISBOA quor Inc. —R.V. wine, dominated by Moscatel grapes. The white fruits, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA pear and vivid acidity give the wine a fine, fruity bal- DFJ Vinhos 2010 Grand’Arte Alvarinho anced character. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 91 (Lisboa). Full and rounded wine, with touches DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Branco (Lis- abv: 13% Price: $9 of toast, pineapple, melon and peach. It’s a fine expres- 84 boa). The most successful wine in the medi- sion of Alvarinho, keeping the essential fresh structure um-sweet Portada range, with its light honey and lemon of the grape while also giving extra weight and richness. flavors, both crisp and soft, ready to drink. Dionysos Im- TEJO Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. ports Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11 abv: 12% Price: $9 Fiuza 2008 Ikon Chardonnay-Trincadeira 93 (Tejo). Aromatic, tropical textured wine. Great Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Quinta DFJ Vinhos 2010 Segada Branco (Lis- flavors of ripe pineapple and mango balance with more 90 dos Loridos Alvarinho (Lisboa). A miner- 83 boa). Ripe and fruity, with some sweetness that green fruit characters and a twist of lime. The wood fla- al, tense wine, packed with delicious citrus fruits, a taut does not seem to be fully integrated. So the green plum vors are well restrained, offering just a touch of final chalky structure and green apple acidity. It has a salty flavors are attractive, as is the acidity, but there is an in- spice. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. aftertaste to it. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. trusive sugary edge. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $8 Fiuza 2009 Premium Chardonnay-Fernão DFJ Vinhos 2010 DFJ Alvarinho-Char- 92 Pires (Tejo). Fine, subtle wood here, with 90 donnay (Lisboa). Alvarinho away from the MINHO acidity that sits well with the melon, greengage and north of Portugal gives a much creamier style of wine green plum juiciness. The wine has a great layer of and makes a fine partner with Chardonnay. So this is Aveleda 2010 Alvarinho (Minho). For full spice, and a rich aftertaste. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. ripe, full-bodied, with tropical fruit flavors as well as 91 review see page 10. —R.V. kiwi. It has just the right acidity, well-balanced, worth abv: 14% Price: $22 aging another year. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. Aveleda 2009 Follies Janela Manuelina abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 (Minho). A blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro, Fiuza 2010 Chardonnay (Tejo). Smooth, this is rich as well as crisp wine. It has a rich texture, 90 rich style of wine, very ripe in character. It feels DFJ Vinhos 2010 Grand’Arte Arinto (Lis- with lemon, pear and lychee combining to give the soft, with tropical flavors and good acidity. There is a 88 boa). Arinto, sometimes used in sparkling acidity as well as the perfumed fruitiness. It feels full, great final citrus cut. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best wine, creates a bright, crisp, lime-flavored wine. It is Buy. —R.V. powered by its acidity and the apple skin texture, all the abv: 13% Price: $15

WineMag.com | 37 Fiuza 2010 3 Castas (Tejo). A fat-feeling cot and peach flavors, a fine rounded texture, smooth cot, melon, orange zest. The wine has a creamy charac- 89 wine that has definite richness and sweet pear and creamy. There is a great tangy citrus finish. Impres- ter, though always with the proper citrus acidity of Vin- and apricot fruit flavors. It is ripe, full in the mouth, sive, ripe and rich, definitely for food. Massanois Im- ho Verde. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. more of a food style. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best ports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $7 Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Solar de Pinheiro 2010 Azal (Vinho Wines & Winemakers 2010 Touquinhei- 87 Verde). A wine with some density of flavor to Vale d’Algares 2009 Guarda Rios Branco 90 ras Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Full, rich and go with its intense green apple character. It has some 89 (Tejo). Guarda Rios is Portuguese for the king- creamy, a fine expression of the rich white fruit char- ripe green berries, laced with pink grapefruit. Laurel fisher bird, which lives near the Tejo (Tagus) river. This acter of Alvarinho. It also preserves some of the crisp Importers. —R.V. crisp blend of Chardonnay with Alvarinho and Sauvi- citrus Vinho Verde character, giving a balanced, full and abv: 11.5% Price: $13 gnon Blanc has a light hint of wood aging, more of crisp structured character. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Edi- green fruits and lemon zest highlights. Artisan Vines tors’ Choice. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2010 Azul Portu- Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 87 gal Escolha (Vinho Verde). Rounded style abv: 13% Price: $13 of Vinho Verde with some weight to go with the extreme Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Lima 2010 citrus and bright grapefruit flavors. It has a little softness Fiuza 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Tejo). On 89 Colheita Seleccionada Loureiro (Vinho round the edges, but the core is taut, mineral, tangy. 88 the tropical side of Sauvignon Blanc, the wine Verde). As full-bodied as Vinho Verde gets, the wine Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. is packed with great acidity, and a fresh, creamy texture. is a fine example of the creamy, apple-driven Loureiro abv: 11% Price: $11 It’s as clean as a whistle, a delight to drink. Aidil Wines grape. The wine is full of green and yellow fruits, full in & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. the mouth with fine fruitiness. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Barca 2010 abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 11.5% Price: $12 86 Grand Escolha Loureiro (Vinho Verde). Smooth wine, with green plums and citrus flavors bal- Fiuza 2010 Native Branco (Tejo). Deli- Aveleda 2010 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho ancing the edge of yeastiness. The wine finishes crisp 87 cious, ripe-fruited wine, with pear and quince 89 Verde). For full review see page 10. and tangy. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. and a streak of citrus. Very fresh, although with an at- abv: 11.5% Price: $7 tractive creamy texture, it has a great final zing of acid- Casa de Vila Verde 2010 Alvarinho (Vin- ity. Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. 89 ho Verde). Alvarinho gives a rounded, light- Casa de Vila Verde 2010 Vinho Verde. —R.V. ly honeyed character to this rich wine. The flavors of 86 Classic fresh, extremely tangy wine, all apple, abv: 13% Price: $9 baked apple and crisp citrus dominate, with a full feel to citrus and crispness. It’s lively, although also with some the ripe aftertaste. Signature Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. fruit richness. Drink now, with shellfish. Screwcap. Sig- Wines & Winemakers 2010 Companhia abv: 13% Price: $14 nature Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 das Lezírias Catapereiro Branco (Tejo). abv: 11.5% Price: $10 The blend of Fernão Pires and Arinto produces a rich Solar de Pinheiro 2010 Avesso (Vinho and creamy wine with pear, ripe apple and apricot fla- 89 Verde). There is a definite spritz to this ripe Caves Aliança 2010 Aliança (Vinho vors. A floral character gives extra piquancy. Iberia and creamy wine. It has the freshest fruit, of course, 86 Verde). With its delicious petillance, this is an Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. rounded out by a baked apple flavor and sweet grape- apple-fresh, dry Vinho Verde, with lively acidity as crisp abv: 12.5% Price: $12 fruit acidity. Weight as well as freshness. Laurel Import- as possible, ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. ers. —R.V. abv: 10.5% Price: $9 Wines & Winemakers 2010 Samora Bran- abv: 12% Price: $13 87 co (Tejo). Ripe peach and green plum flavors, José Maria da Fonseca 2010 Twin Vines laced with steely acidity. This is a wine that has intense Casa do Valle 2010 Vinho Verde. A very 86 (Vinho Verde). On the dry side, this delicious- fruitiness, showing a round texture to balance the fruit. 88 mineral and rich Vinho Verde. The intense acid- ly crisp Vinho Verde has all the right citrus acidity. It’s Drink now, and will be best with food. Wines Without ity is there as well as citrus characters and delicious ripe bursting with lively fruits, just petillant in the mouth, Borders. Best Buy. —R.V. apple and pear flavors to round out the taut texture. with a crisp apple finish. Screwcap. Palm Bay Interna- abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. tional. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 10% Price: $7 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2010 86 Xairel Branco (Tejo). Fresh, apple-flavored Casa do Valle 2010 Vera (Vinho Verde). Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Lima 2010 wine, full of white fruits and a tangy, bright acidity. The 88 With a good dry tang, this is a delicious Vinho 85 Adamado (Vinho Verde). Attractive, just wine is deliciously fresh, with stone fruit acidity on the Verde full of citrus and green apple flavors, as bright off-dry wine, very fresh, packed with apples, tangy cit- finish. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. and breezy as the climate of Portugal’s northern Minho rus and a lively prickle on the tongue. Tri-Vin Imports. abv: 12.5% Price: $6 region. Screwcap. Schneider Selections. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 11% Price: $10 Quinta da Alorna 2009 What’s for Din- 85 ner? Branco (Tejo). All white fruit, lemon Casal do Paço Padreiro 2010 Afros Bran- Aveleda 2010 Fonte (Vinho Verde). Young, and grapefruit, soft and with a hint of softness. It’s a 88 co Loureiro (Vinho Verde). A citrus-driven 85 clean, fresh Vinho Verde, ready to drink, with fine apéritif wine, right up front and friendly. Screwcap. wine, fruity and fresh. The acidity is layered under a refreshing acidity. It has crisp apples and citrus, with Grape Moments. —R.V. smoother, ripe character that gives the wine some rich- just some sweetness to round it out. FJN Fine Wines abv: 12.5% Price: $8 ness. Clean, intensely fresh while also offering final LLC. —R.V. crispness. WineWise. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $8 abv: 12% Price: $17 VINHO VERDE Broadbent 2010 Vinho Verde. The lightest Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Lima 2010 85 feeling wine, attractive in its acidity, its slight Casa do Valle 2010 Grande Escolha (Vin- 87 Loureiro (Vinho Verde). The ripe Loureiro 91 ho Verde). Big, ripe- fruited wine, full of apri- fruit, at its best in the Lima Valley, gives flavors of apri-

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 sweetness and its creamed apple flavor. A perfect sum- tertaste is smooth, like syrup. Admiral Imports. Best Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Barca 2010 mer apéritif. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. 83 Rosé Escolha (Vinho Verde). On the dry abv: 9% Price: $10 abv: 17.5% Price: $15 side, with caramel and strawberry flavors, this is an at- tractive, bright rosé, as fresh as they come. Tri-Vin Im- Solar de Pinheiro 2010 Vinho Verde. Clas- Rozes 2009 Noble Late Harvest Malvasia ports. —R.V. 85 sic, crispy white berry- and lime-flavored wine. 87 Fina (Douro). This rich wine is touched by abv: 10.5% Price: $5 It is pierced with acidity, just touched by some softness. botrytis. although its main character is ultraripe, sweet For great summer drinking. Laurel Importers. —R.V. fruit. Mango, honey and an edge of toast come together Borges 2010 Lello Rosé (Douro). Pink in abv: NA Price: $13 easily. Vranken America. —R.V. 83 color, a smooth wine, layered in caramel, miss- abv: 14.5% Price: $27/500 ml ing real fruit. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. Aveleda 2010 Casal Garcia Branco (Vin- abv: 12.5% Price: $9 84 ho Verde). A light, bright, sweet apple juice- flavored wine. It has an attractive prickle and soft tex- ROSÉS DFJ Vinhos 2010 Coreto Rosé (Lisboa). ture. A fine, fresh aperitif. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 83 Soft, sweet raspberry fruit-flavored wine. It has abv: 10% Price: $8 Quinta de Sant’Anna 2010 Rosé (Lisboa). a line of acidity while its main character is the light, 86 A particularly clean, fresh and dry rosé, full of sweet aftertaste. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Borges 2010 Gatão (Vinho Verde). Clean, currant fruit, a taut, refreshing texture and a final burst —R.V. 84 fresh with attractive sweet apple acidity and a of acidity. Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $6 soft aftertaste, giving just a prickle on the palate. Dio- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Rosé (Lisboa). abv: 9% Price: $7 Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 JP 83 Light, sweet rosé, with just hints of acidity to 85 Rosé (Setubal). A just off-dry rosé with great give it a red berry freshness. Dionysos Imports Inc. Wines & Winemakers 2010 Salsus Col- fresh fruit, attractive red currants and vanilla flavor. This —R.V. 84 heita (Vinho Verde). Perfect apéritif Vinho is bright, clean, delicious as a food rosé. Screwcap. Ad- abv: 11.5% Price: $9 Verde, light as a feather, attractively laced with citrus miral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. and peach flavors. It has a light prickle on the tongue, abv: 13% Price: $9 Wines & Winemakers 2010 Azul Portugal with a soft aftertaste. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. 83 Rosé (Setubal). Caramel and strawberry aro- —R.V. Casa do Valle 2010 Rosé (Vinho Verde). mas lead to a ripe, while still, crisp crushed red berry abv: 9.5% Price: $9 85 Producer of one of the first rosé Vinho Verde, wine. Good acidity, a light just off-dry texture. Iberia Casa do Valle continues to make one of the best. Full of Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2010 Clemens delicious strawberry flavors with great acidity, delicious- abv: 12.5% Price: $11 83 Reserva (Vinho Verde). A soft Vinho Verde, ly fruity. Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. with white fruit flavors, only light acidity and some final abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Lagosta 2010 Vinho Rosé (Vinho Verde). sweetness. An attractive apéritif. Marquee Selections. 82 Sweet rosé from the Vinho Verde region, this —R.V. Fiuza 2009 Rosé (Tejo). Fine acidity on has some fresh raspberry and a light prickle to make it abv: 11.5% Price: $14 85 this crisp, raspberry-flavored wine. With an ex- just that extra bit refreshing. Admiral Imports. —R.V. tra year aging it demands to be drunk, offering a plea- abv: 11% Price: $NA Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Barca 2010 surable food-friendly style. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. 82 Escolha (Vinho Verde). Somewhat lean, with —R.V. tight apples and grapefruit, and a metallic touch that abv: 13.5% Price: $25 PORTUGUESE REDS spoils the acidity. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $5 Quinta da Sequeira 2010 Rosé (Douro). ALENTEJANO 85 Soft, ripe-fruited wine, with strawberry flavors. Lagosta 2010 Vinho Verde. A sweet, sug- It’s soft, warm tasting, the fruit full-bodied. Value Vines Luis Duarte 2009 Rapariga da Quinta 82 ar-water Vinho Verde, refreshing with acidity. LLC. —R.V. 94 Reserva (Alentejano). A smooth wine, all its Drink now. Admiral Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 structure encased in warm black fruit and toast. It de- abv: 9% Price: $NA velops slowly in the mouth, revealing sweet tannins and Aveleda 2010 Casal Garcia Rosé (Vinho opulent juiciness. The acidity is an equally warming ad- 84 Verde). Apples and strawberry combine easi- dition to the final spice character. Age for 3–4 years. SWEET WINES ly in this soft, fresh rosé. It’s fruity, light, with a slight Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. prickle in the mouth. Screwcap. FJN Fine Wines LLC. abv: 14.5% Price: $23 José Maria da Fonseca 2006 (Mosca- —R.V. 92 tel de Setúbal). The legendary Moscatel de abv: 10.5% Price: $8 Luis Duarte 2009 Rubrica (Alentejano). Setúbal is produced by one of the finest exponents of 94 Famed consultant Luis Duarte now produces a the style. With its raisin and honey character, aged in Caves Aliança 2010 Vista Rosé (Beiras). range of wines under his own name. This Rubrica is, as old wood, it is a gorgeous wine, suitable as an apéritif 84 Made from Tinta Roriz, this attractively ripe you would expect, beautifully made with the ripest of as much as with dessert. Palm Bay International. —R.V. rosé is simply fruity, with candy softness as well as some fruit and a juicy character from the Alicante Bouschet abv: 17.5% Price: $10/375 ml fresh acidity. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. in the blend. It is powerful, packed with tannins, de- abv: 12.5% Price: $9 serving several years’ aging. Laurel Importers. Cellar Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2004 Colhei- Selection. —R.V. 90 ta (Moscatel de Setúbal). Old gold in color, DFJ Vinhos 2010 Casa do Lago Rosé abv: 14% Price: $33 this Moscatel has been aged in wood to concentrate its 84 (Lisboa). A dry style of rosé, with some cara- intense flavors. It has flavors of marmalade, dried rai- mel character along with refreshing acidity. The wine is Herdade das Servas 2008 Reserva (Alen- sins, so sweet yet flushed through with acidity. The af- fresh, stylish, with a smooth texture and a crisp after- 93 tejano). Pitch black wine, densely concentrat- taste. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. ed, powerful, its wood aging giving shape to the huge abv: 12.5% Price: $9 fruit and tannins. Ripe black fruits add a juicy character,

WineMag.com | 39 with a jammy richness complemented by exotic spic- ter. It is full, packed with berry fruits that burst in the full of ripe sweet fruit. The tannins provide a gentle es. The wine needs five years’ cellaring. Iberia Wine & mouth. Laurel Importers. —R.V. backbone. Admiral Imports. —R.V. Spirits LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $NA Wines & Winemakers 2009 Abreu Cal- Herdade dos Grous 2009 Moon Harvest- Herdade dos Grous 2008 Reserva (Alen- 91 lado Reserva (Alentejano). A smoky aro- 88 ed Alicante Bouschet (Alentejano). The 93 tejano). Fermented in open lagars, this wine is ma and dark chocolate flavors gives the wine a brood- earthy character of Alicante Bouschet is very evident luscious with wonderful depth of black fruit flavor, spice ing feel. It has considerable weight to go with the spice, here. The wine, vinified following the lunar calendar, and acidity. It has hints of wood, although these are al- wood and black plum fruits. It could do with 2 years ag- is full of blackberry juice flavors. The estate is named ready well integrated into the ripe fruit. Age this wine ing. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —R.V. after the cranes, Grous, which nest here. The Barter- for at least 3–4 years. The Barterhouse. Cellar Selec- abv: 14% Price: $22 house. —R.V. tion. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $54 Companhia das Quintas 2008 Herdade 90 da Farizoa Grand Escolha (Alentejano). J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Ramos Reserva Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Tinto Rich, ripe and juicy, this structured and fruity wine 88 (Alentejano). A smooth, rich wine from a new 92 da Anfora (Alentejano). Always an impres- has warmth, ripe plum flavors and smooth tannins. It’s range signed by winemaker João Portugal Ramos. It sive wine, this latest vintage of Tinto da Anfora powers generous, full-bodied, with an open feel to it. Ready to has fresh berry fruits, spiced tannin with some struc- forward with great balance among its black fruits, ripe drink now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. ture along with acidity. It shows power, a touch of toast, tannins, oak and enticing acidity. There is a jammy feel abv: 13.5% Price: $NA while also having elegance. Ready to drink. Winebow. to the texture, although the firm structure holds it all to- Best Buy. —R.V. gether. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Herdade das Servas 2008 Tinto (Alente- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $13 90 jano). The high alcohol gives the wine great richness while still keeping balance. Warm plum jelly J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa Syrah Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta da Terrugem and blackberry flavors are well integrated with the wood 88(Alentejano) . A dark, firmly textured wine, its 92 Reserva (Alentejano). A new reserva cate- and spice. With its richness as well as tannins, it should fruit wrapped in dark tannins. There is a strong per- gory from Quinta da Terrugem, this is perfumed with age over 3 years or more. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. fumed character and the spicy damson juice is ripe. mint and solidly dense tannins. It has concentrated —R.V. A wine with power, density and also acidity. Winebow. black fruits, very rich in style. It needs aging to bring abv: 15% Price: $NA —R.V. out the beautiful fruit and structure. Tri-Vin Imports. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Cellar Selection. —R.V. Herdade de São Miguel 2009 Ciconia abv: 14% Price: $29 90 The Reserva (Alentejano). Rich and smooth Quinta do Quetzal 2009 Guadalupe wine, with ripe juicy black berry and plum fruits. It has 88 (Alentejano). The earthy ,sweet fruit is shot Herdade das Servas 2008 Syrah/Touri- sweet tannins, with acidity and a final juicy character. through with acidity. The wine is soft, rich, full of black 92 ga Nacional (Alentejano). Both grapes with Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. plum fruits, with a ripe, smooth aftertaste. Laurel Im- tannins and perfumes, Syrah and Touriga Nacional abv: 14.5% Price: $13 porters. —R.V. complement each other well. The result is a wine that abv: 13.5% Price: $14 has a dry core surrounded with exotic fruits, in flavors J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa Reser- that range from crystallized violet to herbs to dark plum 90 va (Alentejano). For full review see page 7. Caves Velhas 2010 Romeira (Alenteja- skins. Age this wine for four years. Iberia Wine & Spir- 86 no). Full-bodied, rounded and soft wine. It has its LLC. —R.V. Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Guadalupe Se- plenty of ripe plum and spice flavors along with an edge abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 90 lection (Alentejano). A firm, tannic and juicy of toast. Attractive, juicy wine for drinking now. Admiral wine. It has an austere, mineral edge to it, powered by Imports. —R.V. Herdade dos Grous 2009 23 Barricas black currants and bitter chocolate. The wine is concen- abv: 13% Price: $NA 92 (Alentejano). A limited edition of 23 selected trated, while having a fresh aftertaste. Laurel Import- barrels, this impressive wine shows great structure, ripe ers. —R.V. Caves Aliança 2010 Alabastro (Alenteja- Touriga Nacional perfumes, as much elegance as power. abv: 14% Price: $21 85 no). One of the many inexpensive wines from The acidity strides through the wine, giving a fine final Aliança, Alabastro has an earthy feel, chunky and fruity. fruity feel. The Barterhouse. —R.V. Herdade dos Grous 2009 Tinto (Alente- At the same time, it also has richness, perfumed tan- abv: 14% Price: $50 89 jano). A rich wine, dominated at this stage by nins and attractive spicy acidity. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. sweet wood as much as fruit. The black cherry and spice abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Caves Velhas 2009 Magna Carta Reser- are just about to come through with the balancing dusty 91 va (Alentejano). The long historical connec- fruit tannins and acidity. It needs about three years to J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Loios Tinto tion between Portugal and England is commemorated become fully ready. The Barterhouse. —R.V. 85 (Alentejano). Soft, fruity wine, a perfect foil in this finely structured wine. With its powerful dry tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 for grilled meats with its light tannin structure. Ripe and nins and big chunky fruit and wood, the wine shows an very fruity, generous and juicy. Winebow. Best Buy. imposing presence. The ripe fruits and tannins promise J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Quinta da Viço- —R.V. at least five years aging. Admiral Imports. Cellar Selec- 89 sa S.T. (Alentejano). The blend of Syrah and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 tion. —R.V. Trincadeira brings together two elemental grapes with abv: 13.5% Price: $NA their complementary earthy, barnyard characters. They give the wine a solid, tannic structure offering a solid, ALENTEJO Luis Duarte 2009 Rapariga da Quinta chunky texture and a final ripe feel. Winebow. —R.V. 91 Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). The abv: 14% Price: $40 Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Reserva (Alen- American oak aging gives this immediately attractive 93 tejo). A big wine in every sense, dark in color, and juicy wine just that extra spice and vanilla charac- Caves Velhas 2009 Serradayres Reserva the fruit supremely rich without being excessive. It is 88 (Alentejano). Brilliant red fruits dominate this very structured within its opulent framework. Likely to rich, full-bodied wine. It has a dense, jammy texture,

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 age well, this is concentrated, dense. Laurel Importers. mineral edge from the chalk (calcário) soil, but it is very Luis Pato 2010 Pato Rebel Baga (Beiras). Cellar Selection. —R.V. drinkable now. Laurel Importers. —R.V. 89 One of the finest Portuguese winemakers, Luis abv: 14% Price: $38 abv: 13.8% Price: $62 Pato also likes to portray himself as a rebel against the wine establishment. This wine revels in its pure Baga J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Marquês de Bor- Wines & Winemakers 2007 Azul Portugal character, packed with earthy tannins yet also rich in its 92ba Reserva (Alentejo). A delicious, smooth 88 (Bairrada). A wine that preserves some of the black currant fruit. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. wine, all rounded fruit and sweetness to go with the earthy character of the Baga grape while getting a rich- abv: 13% Price: $NA more determined tannins that lie beneath. With great er texture from Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. The concentration, the wine has a feeling of power while result is a powered, chunky wine that also has a hint of Caves Aliança 2008 Vista Tinto Tinta Ror- preserving a core of juicy acidity and sweet red plum elegance, finishing with delicious fresh spice and juice. 84 iz (Beiras). A smooth wine, feeling light in juice. Signature Imports. —R.V. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. style, with a touch of acidity to go with the gentle tan- abv: 14% Price: $75 abv: 13% Price: $11 nins. It is now quite ready to drink, easy and approach- able Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Alente 2005 Reserva (Alentejo). A smooth, Caves Aliança 2008 Reserva (Bairrada). abv: 13% Price: $10 89 wood-aged wine that shows concentrated fruit, 86 Earthy wine, with red plum acidity and a dry a mineral edge of tannins. It is dense, with the struc- edge. It has some soft juiciness, the wine’s natural aus- ture dominant, giving some aging potential. Toast and terity leavened by some ripe fruit in the aftertaste. Tri- DÃO black plum skin join acidity on the finish. Value Vines Vin Imports. —R.V. LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 Alvaro Castro 2007 Pape (Dão). A rich and abv: 13% Price: $18 95 powerful wine, dense and chewy. Its tannins Companhia das Quintas 2008 Quinta do dominate a wine that is still young. The damson and Alente 2007 Premium (Alentejo). Rich and 89 Cardo (Beira Interior). The 2,000-foot-high blackberry fruits give richness and acidity. Combined, 86 ripe, with soft tannins and black plum flavors. It vineyard of Cardo yields wines which are structured, the structure and the fruit make an imposing, poten- is round, while still having a core of attractive tannins. concentrated and austere in character when young. This tially long-lived wine. Laurel Importers. Cellar Selec- The fruit dominates, giving a friendly, accessible wine. 2008 is developing well, its black currant fruit soften- tion. —R.V. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. ing the tannins and acidity. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. abv: 13% Price: $72 abv: 14% Price: $14 —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Alvaro Castro 2007 Quinta da Pellada J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Marquês de Bor- 94 (Dão). A star wine from Alvaro Castro. It is 86ba (Alentejo). A young and fruity wine, full of powered by its tannins, its intense mineral structure, ripe black currant fruit. Its tannins are soft, a good bal- BEIRAS dark plums, cranberry and dense texture. Give this pow- ance with the fresh, juicy fruit. Drink or age a year. Sig- erful, impressive wine at least five years. Laurel Import- nature Imports. —R.V. Aveleda 2004 Grande Follies Vinhas da ers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15 94 Quinta da Agueira (Beiras). For full review abv: 13% Price: $72 see page 3. Alente 2007 Alentejo. Light-textured wine, Vinha Paz 2008 Reserva (Dão). With its in- 84 with its berry fruits dominant. Hints of wood Aveleda 2008 Follies Casa da Agueira 94 tense black color and perfumed aromas, this is aging balance with fruit tannins and acidity. Very ac- 93 Touriga Nacional (Beiras). An intense wine, a superb wine. The palate is firm, solid, still tannic, with cessible, the finish earthy and rustic. Value Vines LLC. with black currant and fresh damson fruits, layered with the fruit just coming into balance. Nineteen months of —R.V. firm tannins and acidity. It is rich, spicy, still structured wood aging has rounded the wine without dominating. abv: 13% Price: $10 and firm. Age for three years at least. FJN Fine Wines Give this seriously ageworthy wine 5–6 years. Laurel LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. BAIRRADA abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $35 Aveleda 2009 Follies Fonte Nossa Sen- Quinta dos Roques 2007 Reserva (Dão). Caves Aliança 2006 Quinta das Bacela- 91 hora da Vandoma Touriga Nacional-Cab- 93 Intense and concentrated, full of fruit, tannic 92 das Baga (Bairrada). With the French wine- ernet Sauvignon (Beiras). For full review see page structure and richness. It comes from a fine vintage and making influence of consultant Pascal Chatonnet, this 10. shows the ripe fruit, rich berry and red plum character, is a rich and rounded wine, bringing out some flavors along with a more austere, ageworthy edge. A very fine of wood, while preserving much of the firm, structured Caves Aliança 2008 Vista Reserva Touri- wine, and one worth keeping for 5–6 years. Wineworth character of the Baga grape. Just ready to drink, but 90 ga Nacional (Beiras). From central Portugal, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. worth aging. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. here is a dark, firm wine, perfumed with hints of violets abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 and given depth of flavor by the year’s wood aging. A warm, big-hearted wine with a solid core. Tri-Vin Im- Quinta da Garrida 2007 Reserva (Dão). Ataide da Costa 2009 Ataide Semedo ports. —R.V. 92 For full review see page 5. 91 Reserva (Bairrada). Warm and rich, show- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ing a ripe side of the Baga grape. It has red berry fruits, Quinta dos Roques 2008 Dão. An impres- lined with tannins, wood and juicy acidity. The dry edge Filipa Pato 2009 Baga-Touriga Nacional 92 sive wine with its rich fruit, jam and tar flavors is well balanced with the fruitiness to give a fine mineral 90 (Beiras). An initially severe wine, the tannins complementing the ripe plums and prunes. The wine aftertaste. Laurel Importers. —R.V. giving a dark edge. As it opens, it reveals juicy black cur- has acidity and a mineral character, while showing great abv: 14.5% Price: $32 rant and berry fruits, the tannin and the feel of wood ripeness, spice and a great swathe of tannins. Age for adding support to the extreme juiciness. The wine could 4–5 years. Wineworth LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Filipa Pato 2009 Nossa Calcário (Bairra- age for 2–3 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 91 da). Finely balanced, elegant wine, its acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $21 deliciously integrated with firm tannins and red berry Alvaro Castro 2008 Dão. Alvaro Castro’s fruits. There is the potential for aging here, with the 91 wines are firmly rooted in the granite soils of

WineMag.com | 41 the Dão. This powerful and concentrated wine, with its Caves Aliança 2008 Aliança Particular structure to carry it forward for many years. Dionysos damson and smoky flavors, dark tannins and wood spice, 87 (Dão). An easygoing ripe red, with the min- Imports Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. is a great expression of the region’s minerality. Age for erality of the Dão rounded into sweeter damson and abv: 13.5% Price: $NA four years. Laurel Importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. red berry fruits. There’s an attractive layer of acidity for abv: 13% Price: $21 freshness. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2009 Lua Nova em abv: NA Price: $14 91 Vinhas Velhas (Douro). “New moon on old Alvaro Castro 2008 Reserva (Dão). Bring- vines” is the name of this powerful Douro wine made 91 ing out the austerity of the Dão, this is a sinewy Quinta dos Roques 2008 Quinta do Cor- from selected old vines. It’s a solid, ripe wine, very tex- wine. It has black currant fruits, packed with juicy acid- 86 reio (Dão). A full, ripe wine that also preserves tured, complex. It has intense black fruits, laced with ity. The tannins give a taut, dry core, very mineral and the minerality of the Dão. There are black currant and acidity, very firmly anchored in a dense character. Age steely. Laurel Importers. —R.V. damson skin flavors, with juiciness as well as spice. for 3–4 years. Wine Without Borders. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35 Wineworth LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $10 Dao Sul 2009 Quinta de Cabriz Four C Caves Velhas 2008 Alma Grande Reserva 91 (Dão). An intensely structured wine, very ripe 90 Touriga Nacional (Douro). This is a dense, but also floral, perfumed and aromatic. There is power DOURO beautifully structured wine, full of black fruits, layered in this smooth, creamy character, which has rich berry wood and dry tannins. It is full in the mouth, the toast fruits to go with the tannins. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Duorum 2008 Old Vines Reserva (Dou- character balancing well with the powerful ripe fruit. —R.V. 93 ro). Incredibly young, this is going to be an Admiral Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA impressive, serious wine. It has all the elements—dark abv: 13.5% Price: $NA fruit and acidity tied together with intense tannins. It Vinha Paz 2009 Colheita (Dão). Impres- tastes of the hard landscape of the Douro, with a severe Symington Family Estates 2008 Altano 91 sively structured and fruity wine. A tarry tex- character that needs several years to soften. Winebow. 90 Quinta do Ataíde Reserva (Douro). Still ture, sweet juicy black fruits, a solid and concentrated Cellar Selection. —R.V. young, this single-vineyard wine in the Altano range is core—all come together in a firm, ageworthy wine. abv: 14% Price: $40 showing a powerful structure as well as concentrated Keep for 3–4 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V. black fruits. It is rich, dark-hued, needing 3–4 years ag- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Durham-Agrellos 2008 Marka Reserva ing. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 93 (Douro). An impressive wine, with spice, in- abv: NA Price: $NA Quinta dos Roques 2008 Touriga Nacio- tense ripe black berry fruits and a solid core of tannins. 90 nal (Dão). Touriga Nacional often shows bet- It has power without being overwhelming, densely tex- Quinta da Sequeira 2009 Douro. Located ter in the Dão than in the Douro, and this wine is a tured and ready to age for several years. Blue Chair Me- 89 in the eastern reaches of the Douro, Quinta da powerful case in point. It has a delicious perfumed char- dia. —R.V. Sequeira has produced a firmly tannic wine, with con- acter, intense acidity and blackberry fruits. The tannins abv: 14% Price: $39 centrated berries and dark prune and raisin flavors. are firm and in balance. Age for 3–4 years. Wineworth There are hints of licorice, dark chocolate, finishing firm LLC. —R.V. Companhia das Quintas 2008 Quinta da and concentrated. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 92 Fronteira Reserva (Douro). Big, wood-dom- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 inated wine. Black chocolate joins with sweet plums and Caves Aliança 2008 Reserva (Dão). A rich toast for both elegance and balance. It is still young, the Ramos-Pinto 2009 Duas Quintas (Dou- 89 and firmly structured wine, with intense tan- structure needing 3–4 years to really soften and show 89 ro). Deliciously fruity wine that has a herb and nins balanced by concentrated fruit. It shows the gran- its more opulent character. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. toast layer and tannins that are soft yet structured. The ite character of the Dão while also having spice and a Cellar Selection. —R.V. acidity gives the point to the red berry fruits. Drink full-bodied feel. Worth aging for another year. Tri-Vin abv: 14% Price: $NA over the next two years. Maisons Marques & Domaines Imports. —R.V. USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Caves Aliança 2008 Quinta dos Quatro abv: 14% Price: $15 91 Ventos (Douro). A perfumed, new-wood Caves Velhas 2009 Catedral Reserva dominated wine, with mint and toast flavors. It has el- Wines & Winemakers 2007 Murzelo 89 (Dão). The rich fruit is balanced with dry min- egance with layers of black berry fruits. At this stage, the 89 Reserva (Douro). Dominated by its tannins eral tannins to give a firmly structured wine. It is rich wood is dominant, and the wine would benefit from 2–3 and a firm, structured character, this dark-colored wine with a pent-up power of black tarry fruits, black plums years aging. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. is concentrated stuff. It has plenty of acidity that balanc- and intense acidity. Admiral Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24 es the solid, chunky plum fruits. Powerful, a big mouth- abv: 13% Price: $NA ful. MT Global. —R.V. Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta dos Quatro abv: 14% Price: $16 Garrida 2007 Quinta da Garrida Touriga 91 Ventos Reserva (Douro). A serious, full- 89 Nacional (Dão). From Aliança’s Dão estate, bodied superrich wine. It has all the ripe fruit of the Casca Wines 2009 Monte Cascas Colhei- the wine was aged 12 months in wood. It exhibits the 2007 vintage, almost Port-like in its concentration of 88 ta (Douro). Rounded, with rich jammy fruit, richness of the vintage, with its hints of raisins and firm blackberry fruit. There is intense structure and a dry sweet and full in the mouth. The wine has plum jelly fla- dry fruit. There is power here, while the wine also has core of tannins. The alcohol does show with a slight vors, generous and soft feeling, the tannins well buried. fine elegance. Winebow. —R.V. burn in the mouth—the only fault of the wine. Tri-Vin Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 15% Price: $59 Quinta das Maias 2008 Jaen (Dão). The Quevedo 2009 Oscar’s Tinto (Douro). 89 neglected red grape from the Dão, Jaen offers Sobredos 2008 Aneto Grande Reserva 88 Full, fruity wine with attractive tannins to give a dark color, solid and chunky fruit, very ripe with pow- 91 (Douro). Powerful, concentrated wine, with dry edge to what is a delicious, juicy blackberry-flavored erful acidity, earthy flavors and a dense tannic coating. still-young tannins. The blackberry fruits are ripe, al- barbecue wine. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. Powerful and concentrated. Wineworth LLC. —R.V. though with an austere edge that comes from the vin- abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 tage. The wine, however, has enough richness and

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Quinta de la Rosa 2009 Dourosa Tinto Quinta do Judeu 2008 Douro. A very rich There’s a touch of pepper, the finish showing fine acid- 88 (Douro). The little brother at Quinta de la 87 wine, its tannins wrapped in ripe, jammy black ity. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Rosa is getting bigger, with its well-crafted fruits, lay- fruits. The wine is solid, powerful, all concentrated fruit, abv: NA Price: $NA ers of firm spice, sweet tannins and final firm structure. sweet and juicy. Vinum Wine Importing and Distribut- A reflection of the vintage, this is particularly warm and ing LLC. —R.V. Quinta do Carneiro 2008 Pactus Touri- rich, for drinking now. Vinum Wine Importing and Dis- abv: 14% Price: $NA 85 ga Nacional (Lisboa). Earthy wine that has tributing LLC. —R.V. rich, chewy fruit, its tannins a serious element. There is abv: 14% Price: $NA Sobredos 2008 Aneto (Douro). Big, spicy weight as well, the wine ripe, full, with juicy plum fla- 87 wine, full of ripe black plums with dried prunes vors. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. Quinta de São José 2009 Douro. The nose coming through strongly. The tannins are dark, provid- abv: 14% Price: $13 88 is intensely barnyard, but as the wine develops it ing a firm core of dryness. It does feel somewhat hot, shows more smooth tannins, ripe berry fruits and a fine with alcohol that suppresses the attractive acidity. Dio- DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Tinto (Lisboa). structure. This is a wine that is still developing, bringing nysos Imports Inc. —R.V. 82 Described as medium sweet, this is soft and on the acidity, the wood and the damson fruit flavors. abv: 14% Price: $23 sugary, its tannins at an awkward angle to the soft sur- There is aging potential there. Laurel Importers. —R.V. roundings. This style works better with the rosé and abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Symington Family Estates 2009 Altano white versions of Portada. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. 87 (Douro). For full review see page 13. abv: 12% Price: $9 Rozes 2008 Quinta do Grifo Reserva 88 (Douro). Sweet ripe plum fruit flavors are Borges 2009 Lello Tinto (Douro). An at- laced with acidity and soft, dusty tannins in this smoky 85 tractive, bright, red-fruited wine, laced with in- SETUBAL tobacco-scented wine. It is smooth, rich, ready to drink. tense acidity and a layer of tannins. The wine has great Vranken America. Best Buy. —R.V. texture and some sweetness. A very drinkable red. Dio- Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 Só abv: 13.5% Price: $10 nysos Imports Inc. —R.V. 90 Touriga Nacional (Setubal). A big-hearted abv: 13.5% Price: $9 wine, rich as well as structured. The perfumed fruit Symington Family Estates 2009 Altano is blackberry lined with acidity, while the firm tannins 88 Organically Farmed Vineyards (Douro). Quinta do Crasto 2008 Crasto (Douro). give a dusty, dry heart. It’s a concentrated wine, full of From vineyards in Douro Superior, the eastern section 85 Soft, fruity wine, with an earthy character. The the complexities of Touriga Nacional. Admiral Imports. of the Douro region, this is a concentrated pure red ber- wine has acidity and red fruits with a final fresh burst —R.V. ry fruit-flavored wine. It wears its richness lightly and of ripeness. Not for aging, drink now. Broadbent Selec- abv: 14% Price: $30 easily, emphasizing the acidity as much as the ripe fruit. tions, Inc. —R.V. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periquita abv: 14% Price: $NA 87 (Setubal). For full review see page 12.

Wines & Winemakers 2005 Quinta da Vei- LISBOA José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periquita 88 ga da Casa das Mouras Reserva (Douro). 87 Reserva (Setubal). Great swathes of black Juicy, ripe wine, perfumed and the wood aging show- Companhia das Quintas 2008 Quinta da fruit, coffee and sweet tannins give this ripe and juicy ing through. The wine is sweet, rich, the tannins well 91 Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). A fascinating mix wine plenty of character and attractiveness. For imme- integrated into the powerful red berry fruits. There is of Bordeaux and Portuguese grapes results in a wine diate drinking. Palm Bay International. —R.V. a hint of maturity, with tobacco and spice flavors. MT that is both structured and attractively generous. Wood abv: 13% Price: $16 Global. —R.V. aging shows through although not excessively, the main abv: 14% Price: $22 character being the firm fruit tannins and black fruit Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 JP concentration. Worth aging two more years. Aidil Wines 86 Azeitão Tinto (Setubal). Fresh, juicy wine, Castro Pena Alba 2007 Duvalley Grande & Liquor Inc. —R.V. with soft tannins and taut red cherry fruit. The tannins 87 Reserva (Douro). Everything is overpower- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA provide a discreet backbone. Age for 2–3 years. Admiral ing with this wine, from the weight of the bottle, to the Imports. —R.V. alcohol, to the intense flavors. It is an impressive one- DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Shiraz (Lis- abv: 13% Price: $9 glass-only wine, packed with concentrated juicy fruity, 89 boa). Spicy wine, layering wood and rich black spice and wood flavors. Drink now. Wine Enterprises fruits, this is densely structured while still fruity. It is Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Meia LLC. —R.V. finely balanced, the acidity keeping a refreshing charac- 86 Pipa (Setubal). Juicy Castelão fruit propels abv: 15% Price: $NA ter. Although the wine is called Shiraz, as in Australia, this wine, giving spice, soft tannins and ripe red cher- in fact it has more to do with a Rhône Syrah. Dionysos ries. It is full, very accessible, its acidity adding an at- Duorum 2010 Tons de Duorum (Douro). Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. tractive edge of freshness. Drink now, or age a year. Ad- 87 Almost Port-like in its rich fruit, this is a young abv: 13.5% Price: $13 miral Imports. —R.V. and vibrant wine, full of red berries and sweet tannins. abv: 14% Price: $15 There is a delicious forward, juicy and fruity character Quinta de Sant’Anna 2009 Tinto (Lis- in this ready-to-drink wine. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. 89 boa). Full-bodied, with spice, pepper and a abv: 13.5% Price: $10 stalky edge. Blackberries dominate, followed by a firm, TEJO dry texture. It needs a year in bottle. Laurel Import- Muxagat 2010 Tinta Barocca Tinta Baroc- ers. —R.V. Fiuza 2008 Ikon Touriga Nacional (Tejo). 87 ca (Douro). It is rare to find Tinta Barroca on abv: 14.5% Price: $24 93 An obviously new-wood-aged wine, with a mod- its own. Normally it is used for blending in Port. Here, ern mint flavor and sweet wood tannins. It is very struc- though, it is in all its ripe fruit glory, an attractive, rela- Dao Sul 2009 Cortello Tinto (Lisboa). tured, still young, its spice and dark chocolate flavor go- tively lightweight wine. It’s for drinking now, with red 85 Fruity red berry-flavored wine, with attrac- ing well with the black fruits. Age this complex wine for berry fruits right to the fore. Winebow. —R.V. tive light tannins, plenty of acidity and an earthy edge. 3–4 years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Cellar Selection. abv: 13% Price: $20 —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

WineMag.com | 43 Falua 2008 Conde de Vimioso Reserva Fiuza 2010 3 Castas (Tejo). Red cherries giving a wine that has both structure and freshness. Ibe- 92 (Tejo). Always an impressive wine, this latest 88 and plums dominate this fruity wine. It has a ria Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Reserva of Conde de Vimioso is deceptively smooth, recognizable Portuguese dry tannic core, while around abv: 13.5% Price: $11 packed with ripe and juicy black fruits. It’s deceptive be- is a plush and juicy texture. A great barbecue wine. Aidil cause under the velvet surface there are powerful tan- Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Quinta do Carneiro 2007 Reserva (Alen- nins at work. The result is a wine for aging over several abv: 12.5% Price: $10 86 quer). A ripe and elegant wine, full of sweet years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. fruits, laced with tannins. It has an attractive tar and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Fiuza 2009 Merlot (Tejo). Despite its alco- plum set of flavors, firmly anchored in its central core of 87 hol, this is a very fresh wine, its ripe fruit show- dryness. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. João Teodosio Matos Barbosa 2007 Nin- ing typical Merlot cherry jam and soft tannins. It is in- abv: 14% Price: $14 92 fa Escolha (Tejo). With some Syrah in the tensely fruity, perhaps lacking complexity, although an blend, the wine has a fine perfumed character. The fruit attractive wine to drink now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Aveleda 2010 Casal Garcia Tinto (Portu- is stylish, with juicy blackberry flavors, laced with cof- —R.V. 83 guese Table Wine). Light red wine, with a fee, spicy toast, dusty tannins and delicious acidity. To abv: 14% Price: $17 stalky black currant character. It is very fruity, showing age over 5–6 years. Touchstone Wines. —R.V. herbs and soft tannins. Almost an apéritif red, certainly abv: 13% Price: $NA Fiuza 2010 Native Tinto Touriga Nacio- one for lightly flavored dishes. FJN Fine Wines LLC. 86 nal-Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). On the —R.V. Quinta da Alorna 2008 Reserva Touri- stalky side, this is all red berry fruits, with just a touch abv: 12% Price: $8 92 ga Nacional-Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). of wood to underpin the wine’s fruit-forward character. Wood-aged, well balanced and firmly structured, this is Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. concentrated while also elegant. The wine has a dense, abv: 13% Price: $9 SPANISH WHITES dusty tannic character along with ripe berry and plum skin flavors. Age this impressive wine for another three Wines & Winemakers 2009 Samora Tinto RÍAS BAIXAS years. Grape Moments. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 86 (Tejo). Soft, red berry-flavored wine. It has a abv: 14% Price: $18 light tannic structure, more in the way of juicy fruit, ap- As Laxas 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). proachable and easy to drink. There is a fine spicy after- 91 Textbook Albariño from what’s shaping up into Fiuza 2008 Premium Touriga Nacional- taste. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. one of Galicia’s best years in a long time. This wine is 91 Cabernet Sauvigon (Tejo). Firmly tannic abv: 14% Price: $12 elegant and lightly creamy, with flower blossom and cit- wine, a blend of two naturally tannic grapes. Their acid- rus aromas preceding apple, peach and nectarine flavors ity provides a counter-balance, giving a black fruit un- Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2009 that are straight from the farm stand. A pure and exem- derlay, spice from wood and a dry as well as juicy finish. 85 Xairel Tinto (Tejo). Juicy, fruity wine, all red plary wine given that 30,000 cases were made. Frontier Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. berries and freshness. The wine feels warm, just right Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25 for a hot dish on a cold day. The acidty gives some shape abv: 12.5% Price: $22 without losing the ripeness. Wine Enterprises LLC. Vale d’Algares 2008 Guarda Rios Tinto Best Buy. —R.V. Burgáns 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). 91 (Tejo). A rounded, powerful wine, propelled abv: 13% Price: $6 90 Simply delicious white wine with lip-smacking by black fruits as much as tannin. It has big berry fla- freshness, bright peach and apple flavors, and clarity vors, along with a dense structure, and a firm texture. Quinta da Alorna 2009 What’s for Din- from front to back. It’s a little leesy but a lot more crisp The wine will age well. Artisan Vines Distributing. Best 85 ner? Tinto (Tejo). Soft, easy drinking. This red and oceanic, with a well-cut body and mild citrus under- Buy. —R.V. has berry fruits, just the right amount of dusty and juicy tones throughout. European Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 flavors. Screwcap. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $8 Fiuza 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). Condes de Albarei 2010 Albariño (Rías 90 Serious, firmly tannic wine that shows a solid Wines & Winemakers 2010 Companhia 90 Baixas). For full review see page 10. structure to go with the black currant fruit. It has pow- 84 das Lezírias Catapereiro Tinto (Tejo). A er, although well balanced with its acidity. A firm, dark fruity wine, with juicy red fruits and a balance of light, Martín Códax 2010 Albariño (Rías Baix- aftertaste suggests further aging. Aidil Wines & Liquor dry tannins. The wine is dusty, firm, showing some 90 as). For full review see page 10. Inc. —R.V. earthy barnyard character. The aftertaste brings out abv: 14% Price: $19 acidity. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. Val do Sosego 2010 Albariño (Rías Baix- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 90 as). Crisp, lemony aromas are pure as a sea Quinta da Alorna 2008 Tinto (Tejo). A breeze. The palate is just as pure and fresh, with ripe 89 smooth wine that has the tannic structure of apple, citrus, pineapple and stone fruit flavors all mix- 2008, along with spice and juicy red fruit acidity. While OTHER REDS ing well. Elegant and crisp, with just the right finishing the fruit is important, it’s the overall structure, with its weight and length. Saranty Imports. —M.S. elegance, that scores for the wine. Grape Moments. Casal do Paço Padreiro 2010 Afros Tinto abv: 12.5% Price: $18 —R.V. 88 (Vinho Verde). This biodynamic estate pro- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 duces an amazingly intense red for a Vinho Verde, Deusa Nai 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). with some wood character, firm tannins and great black 89 For full review see page 9. Falua 2010 Conde de Vimioso Seleccio- fruits. The only hint of Vinho Verde comes from the 88 nada Colheita (Tejo). With its tight tannins, bright final acidity. WineWise. —R.V. Condes de Albarei 2010 Salneval Al- this is a very structured wine, its juicy black fruits al- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 88 bariño (Rías Baixas). Melon and peach aro- ready well integrated into the dark texture. It tastes mas are clean and attractive. The palate is round and powerful because it is so concentrated. At the same Wines & Winemakers 2009 Azul Portugal creamy, with just enough acidic cut. Flavors of melon time there is elegance. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best 87 Castelão (Palmela). Dark, dry tannins and and peach carry onto the finish, which has thickness and Buy. —R.V. firm plum skin flavors dominate this wine from vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 yards south of Lisbon. There is a great streak of acidity,

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 smoothness. Easygoing for Albariño. CIV/USA. Best ing citrus and mineral notes. Cabernet Corporation. and apple skins. Tastes tangy and crisp, with plum, nec- Buy. —M.S. —M.S. tarine and citrus flavors. Real good for the price. Spain abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $15 Wine Collection. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9 Palacio de Fefiñanes 2009 Albariño de Verderol 2010 Spring in a Bottle Verde- 88 Fefiñanes Albariño (Rías Baixas). Deli- 87 jo (Rueda). Clean and nice on the nose, with Vega Sindoa 2010 Garnacha Rosé (Na- cate aromas of lime and lemon blossom are well cut and green fruit aromas and classic Verdejo prickle. The pal- 87 varra). Shiny pink in color, with a crisp and minerally. The palate is juicy, fresh and lively, with sweet ate is bouncy and juicy, with lime, tangerine and passion wet nose that powerfully suggests refreshment to come. melon and apple flavors. Stays melony and apple-driven fruit flavors. Fades quick on the finish but remains crisp Juicy and superfresh on the palate, with cherry and on the finish, which ends a bit sweet. Kysela Père et and refreshing. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. raspberry flavors and citrusy undertones. A real win- Fils. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $22 ner in Garnacha rosé from Navarra. Fine Estates From abv: 13% Price: $26 Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. Val de Los Frailes 2010 Verdejo (Rueda). abv: 13% Price: $8 Serra da Estrela 2010 Albariño (Rías 86 More neutral, simple and heady than the top 88 Baixas). Apple and honeyed aromas are round Verdejos, but this being a fresh 2010 it still has its quali- Ochoa 2010 Garnacha Rosado (Navar- and ripe. The palate is chunky and easy, but with good ties and authentic Rueda characteristics. It’s citrusy and 83 ra). Salmon colored, with somewhat flat aromas acidity. Flavors revolve around apple and peach, while briney, with apple and tropical shadings. Matarromera of peach and sweet melon. Sweet on the palate, with the finish is linear and direct. Ripe and solid wine from USA, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. weight and thickness along with cantaloupe and a can- a good vintage for Albariño. Palm Bay International. abv: 13% Price: $10 died aftertaste. Finishes chunky and flat; tasted twice —M.S. with inconsistent findings. This note reflects the better abv: 12.5% Price: $15 bottle. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. OTHER WHITES abv: 13% Price: $14 Alvinte 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Neu- 87 tral smelling except for a touch of oiliness and Bogatell 2010 Garnacha Blanca (Terra tropical fruit. The palate is soft and melony, with sweet 88 Alta). For full review see page 11. OTHER ROSADOS melon and papaya flavors. Round and pulpy on the fin- ish, with a slight pithy bitterness at the very end. Fron- Dominio de Eguren 2010 Protocolo Blan- Capçanes 2010 Mas Donis Rosat (Mont- tier Wine Imports. —M.S. 86 co (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Melon 86 sant). Raspberry and citrus aromas sit in front abv: 12.5% Price: $22 and almond skin aromas lead to pithy citrus on what of a cheerful, sweet-styled set of juicy watermelon and amounts to a pretty good bouquet. Round, citrusy and plum flavors. This is about as simple as it gets, with a Pazo Serantellos 2010 Albariño (Rías fresh in the mouth, with orange, passion fruit and tropi- bright pink color, mild acidity and good balance. A wine 85 Baixas). Forward on the nose, with stan- cal leanings. Solid and well shaped for a $7 quaffer. 70% to drink as soon as possible. European Cellars. —M.S. dard apple and white peach aromas. The palate is a bit Airen and 30% Macabeo. Fine Estates From Spain. abv: 13% Price: $15 clipped and short, with green-leaning flavors of scallion Best Buy. —M.S. matched with grapefruit. Finishes citrusy. CIV/USA. abv: 12.5% Price: $7 Marco Real 2010 Garnacha Rosado (Na- Best Buy. —M.S. 85 varra). Confected on the nose, with red lico- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 La Purísima 2010 Capa Rota Macabeo rice candy and red apple skins. It’s forward and juicy in 86 (Yecla). For full review see page 13. the mouth, but a little cloying if not served really cold. Tastes of candied berry and watermelon; good in a regu- RUEDA Sumarroca 2010 Estate Bottled Char- lar way. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. 86 donnay (Penedès). Light and mostly neu- abv: 13% Price: $12 Blanco Nieva 2010 Pie Franco Verdejo tral smelling, with citrus aromas and not much else. 91 (Rueda). What a beauty this is. Strong-boned It’s chalky and medium-bodied, with semisharp acid- Cortijo 2010 Cortijo III Rosado Rosé apple, green melon and minerally aromas are the greet- ity and fresh, simple flavors of melon and apple. Crisp, 81 (Rioja). Murky out of the chute, with heavy ing. The palate is pure and right, with piercing pineap- zesty and juicy on the back end. Frontier Wine Imports. plum aromas. The palate is sticky and seems on its way ple, lime and mild briney notes. Lasting and true late, —M.S. to turning flat. Tastes kind of mealy and dull, with red with quality oozing up from the glass. Frontier Wine abv: 13% Price: $16 apple and caramel notes. Not fresh enough to do the Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. job. Ole Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Ochoa 2010 Viura-Chardonnay (Navar- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 85 ra). An unusual blend of Viura, Chardonnay Blanco Nieva 2010 Verdejo (Rueda). Cit- and Moscatel with unusual aromas of mustard seed, 89 rus, passion fruit and lime are draped all over gardenia and oily lemon extract. The palate is chunky SPANISH REDS the quality bouquet. The palate is juicy and offers a mild and round, with soft, floral green fruit flavors. Mellow spritzy feel, while the palate is sweet and easy but main- and smooth, with somewhat low acidity on the finish. CALATAYUD tains its necessary core citrus and mineral qualities. Fin- Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. ishes mild, smooth and a little sweet. Frontier Wine Im- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Evodia 2010 Old Vines Garnacha (Ca- ports. —M.S. 88 latayud). Floral and fresh smelling, with rosy abv: 12.5% Price: $22 notes, blueberry and nary any funk, leather or earth. SPANISH ROSADOS Vibrant and juicy in the mouth, with boysenberry and Viña del Sopié 2010 Verdejo (Rueda). plum flavors that set up a fruity, clean finish. Brighter, 88 Punchy and citrusy on the nose, with passion NAVARRA smoother and easier going than the 2009. European fruit leading the way. It’s balanced and round in the Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S. mouth, but good acids push green apple, green melon Bodegas Julián Chivite 2010 Gran Feudo abv: 15% Price: $9 and peach flavors. Solid and true on the finish, with last- 87 Rosado Rosé (Navarra). This vintage seems to have taken a step forward compared to past years. It’s Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2008 Vinas bright pink in color, with tight, salinic aromas of cherry 88 Viejas Garnacha (Calatayud). Minty, pointy

WineMag.com | 45 oak aromas jump out at you, followed by pepper, leath- CAMPO DE BORJA Campo Marin 2006 Selección Crianza er, spice and herbal berry scents. Tight and structured 80 (Cariñena). Sweet red fruit aromas have a in the mouth, with black plum and ripe berry flavors. Borsao 2010 Garnacha (Campo de Bor- chemical artificiality to them. The palate is underdevel- Turns oaky and hot on the finish, with vanilla and pep- 88 ja). For full review see page 11. oped, thin and tastes medicinal. Drying and hollow on per flavors. A little fiery but the real deal for Calatayud. the finish. Beacon Wine Company. —M.S. E & J Gallo. —M.S. Borsao 2010 Monte Oton Garnacha abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 87 (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 12.

Evodia 2009 Old Vines Garnacha (Cala- Borsao 2010 Viña Borgia Garnacha JUMILLA 87 tayud). Earthy tobacco and natural warmth 87 (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 12. provide for a good nose. It’s briary smelling as well, with Bodegas Carchelo 2009 C (Jumilla). Jam- racy cherry and plum flavors. Shows some heat from Bodegas Aragonesas 2010 Viña Tempra- 85 my, baked aromas of pastry and berry are flat 15% alcohol, but for $9 wine it packs a lot power and 84 na Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Pointy on and dense. The palate is soft and beefy, with jammy, al- flavor. Unmistakable Garnacha that reflects sunny envi- the nose, with modest fruit aromas suggestive of rasp- most syrupy blackberry and raisin flavors. Stays sweet rons. European Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S. berry. A bit astringent across the palate, with red plum on the finish. Flavorful and meaty but doesn’t show abv: 15% Price: $9 flavors that hit hard then fade fast, leaving bitterness much spine. Classical Wines. —M.S. akin to espresso. A crisp, juicy, tight style. Scoperta Im- abv: 14% Price: $16 Tres Ojos 2009 Unfiltered Old Vines Gar- porting Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 87 nacha (Calatayud). Rubbery and dark on abv: 13% Price: $7 Bodegas la Aldea 2009 La Aldea Monas- the nose, with lots of black plum and cherry to ponder. 83 trell (Jumilla). Berry and prune aromas are The palate is firm and balanced, with round, rubbery, heavy and rubbery. The palate is quite acidic, with plum roasted plum and dark berry flavors. Full, nice and long CARIÑENA and cherry tomato flavors leading to a stern, crisp and enough on the finish to keep you involved. Kysela Père grabby finish. Turns more linear and astringent the lon- et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. Bodegas la Aldea 2009 La Gardea Gar- ger it’s open. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $9 86 nacha (Cariñena). Lightly herbal and briary abv: 14% Price: $8 smelling, with solid berry aromas. The palate is thor- El Escocés Volante 2009 La Multa Old ough and chewy, with herbal plum and berry flavors in 86 Vine Garnacha (Calatayud). Mint and milk front of a tasty, juicy finish that’s medium in length and MONTSANT chocolate are the lead aromas, followed by cherry and doesn’t bite down. Casa Ventura Imports. Best Buy. herbal notes. The wine is basic, fresh and fruity, with —M.S. Capçanes 2008 Cabrida Garnacha choppy tannins, heat and lively red berry flavors with abv: 13.5% Price: $8 90 (Montsant). A single-vineyard Garnacha that’s citrus undertones. Runs a bit rough and heady. Well- ripe and sultry. There’s earth and oak on the miner- Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. Bodegas Virgen del Águila 2009 Señorío al-tinged nose and then smooth flavors of blackberry, abv: 14.5% Price: $15 85 del Águila Crianza (Cariñena). Smells like baked plum and spice. Feels soft and mature for Garna- hickory-smoked barbecue with earthy berry and dill. cha, and therein lies the secret of Montsant: The better Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2009 Gar- The palate is rubbery in feel, with drying tannins and wines (like this one) have a pleasant, friendly quality to 86 nacha (Calatayud). Mineral and leather aro- savory tasting red fruit flavors that are a touch resiny. them. European Cellars. —M.S. mas are a combination of the wine’s rocky soil origins Spice and berry notes work the finish. Hand Picked Se- abv: 15% Price: $55 and heat and dryness from 15.2% alcohol. Evolves in lections. —M.S. the glass, going from tasting spicy/earthy to medicinal abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Capçanes 2007 Costers del Gravet plum and berry. Finishes round, sweet, hot, herbal and 90 (Montsant). Well-applied oak is the greeting; syrupy. E & J Gallo. —M.S. Sierra de Viento 2009 Tempranillo (Cari- it’s mildly lemony and minty. Tight and focused on the abv: 15.2% Price: $14 85 ñena). Normal berry and cherry aromas are palate, with cherry and plum flavors and tannic struc- composed and lead to a narrow, tight palate with medic- ture. Turns a touch herbal in the midpalate due to 50% Pontecilla 2009 Old Vines Tempranillo inal plum and berry flavors. Bounces along nicely to the Cabernet in the blend, but the Garnacha and Carignan 84 (Calatayud). Dark, crusty and minty on the finish, which is short and regular in feel. This is all fruit half keep it in the right lane. Tasty and stylish, with re- nose, with obvious oak. The palate is tannic as a drill, and cheer; no oak and not complicated. Iberian Wine gional style. European Cellars. —M.S. with hard blackberry and herbal flavors. Toasty and pep- Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 pery tasting on the finish, which is tough and drawing in abv: 13% Price: $11 feel. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. Capçanes 2009 Mas Donis Barrica Gar- abv: 14% Price: $10 Sierra de Viento 2008 Old Vine Garnacha 89 nacha (Montsant). Smoky and dry for start- 84 (Cariñena). Herbal up front, with pine aromas ers, then crisp in the mouth, with bright red fruit flavors Figaro 2009 Tinto Red Blend (Calata- in addition to berry and plum. The palate is tannic and of cherry and plum. Picks up oak, heat and sweetness 83 yud). Starts out with leather and cheesy aro- kind of gritty feeling, with medicinal cherry and candied on the finish, but overall this is exactly the type of flavor- mas, and beyond that there’s not a lot of fruit on the berry flavors. Finishes sweet, with some burn. Iberian packed red wine most people want. Grenache with 15% bouquet. It’s a chunky, heavy wine with thick, jammy Wine Importers. —M.S. Syrah. European Cellars. —M.S. plum flavors that have strong herbal undertones. Warm, abv: 14.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $15 grabby and baked on the finish, which is plodding. Ky- sela Père et Fils. —M.S. Solar de Urbezo 2010 Dance Del Mar abv: 14.5% Price: $10 83 Tempranillo-Merlot (Cariñena). Sweet red NAVARRA plum aromas are candied and jumbled. The wine is clacky in the mouth, with a lot of acidity and narrow, Monastir 2006 s. XII Cluny (Navarra). sweet cherry flavors. Shows heat and burn on the fin- 91 Smoky, meaty and attractive from the start, ish. 50% Tempranillo-50% Merlot. Patagonia Wine & with vanilla, tobacco, plum, berry and herbal notes on Imports, LLC. —M.S. the nose. Rich, layered and fairly tannic in the mouth, abv: 14% Price: $12 with flavors of tobacco, coconut, sweet berry and cassis.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Long, stylish and nice on the finish; a well-oaked blend Roasted and still robust 10 years after harvest, with aro- vors. Toasty, dry and a bit buttery tasting on the finish. of 50% Tempranillo, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% mas of grilled meat, fall leaves, tobacco and herbs. It’s MHW, Ltd. —M.S. Merlot. Rodinia LLC. —M.S. round on the palate, with heat and slightly herbal and abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 roasted core flavors surrounded by berry and pepper. A mature and interesting single-vineyard Cabernet from Viña Mayor 2007 Crianza Tempranillo (Ri- Marco Real 2007 Reserva de Familia (Na- northeast Spain. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. 86 bera del Duero). Spice and light berry aro- 90 varra). This kitchen sink Tempranillo blend abv: 14% Price: $25 mas form a simple but welcoming bouquet. The palate brings heavy leather, mint, spice, cola and black fruit is snappy, with reductive tannins and dry, earthy ber- aromas that are really nice as a whole. It’s weighty and ry and herb flavors that suggest raspberry, plum and deep in the mouth, with blackberry, vanilla and coco- RIBERA DEL DUERO thyme. Easy and light on the finish. HAB North Amer- nutty flavors. Grabby, ripe, tannic and modern all the ica. —M.S. way through the finish. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. Milcampos 2009 Viñas Viejas Tempranil- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 88 lo Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Dense, deep aromas of grilled meat and berry fruits lead to a Cepa 21 2009 Hito Tinto Fino (Ribera del Monastir 2006 s. XII Cister (Navarra). Be- full and concentrated palate with structure and fierce 85 Duero). Solid and leathery on the nose, with 88 gins murky, with baked red fruit and tomato tannins. Tastes of classic blackberry and plum, with light normal berry and plum aromas. The palate is full, round aromas. The palate is tight and shows structure along herbal shadings. Turns more spicy and interesting on and supremely tannic, with big berry, plum and herbal with roasted, spicy, dry berry flavors that sweeten up to- the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. flavors that culminate with more hard tannins and choc- wards the finish. Interesting despite being a bit baked abv: 13.5% Price: $34 olate. A rubbery wine that hits hard. Fine Estates From out and rustic. 60% Merlot with 30% Tempranillo and Spain. —M.S. 10% Cabernet. Rodinia LLC. —M.S. Bodegas Fuentespina 2007 Selección abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 87 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Smoky and meaty smelling to begin with, like a mix of barbe- Splendore 2007 Tempranillo (Ribera del Ochoa 2003 Single Vineyard Reserva cued spare ribs and roasted berries. The palate is full, 85 Duero). Dry on the nose, with balsam shavings, 88 (Navarra). Leafy and dry smelling, with exotic tannic and drying, with bacon, hickory and baked black- pepper and secondary red fruit aromas. The palate has a lavender and cumin aromas to go with brushy dried ber- berry flavors mixed with herbs. Hard and clacky on the choppy, fairly hollow feel and then short flavors of plum ry, pine and smoked meat. Feels good and healthy de- finish, but flavorful and solid throughout. Axial Wines and berry. Spice and mint notes work the finish, which spite being eight years old, with tobacco, leafy red fruit USA. —M.S. is mellow. Overall this is standardfare RDD. Frontier and earthy, dry flavors. A little stalky, roasted and herb- abv: 14% Price: $18 Wine Imports. —M.S. al but very nice. 60% Tempranillo, 25% Cabernet and abv: 14% Price: $32 15% Merlot. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Damana abv: 14% Price: $32 87 5 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Mineral, Emina 2009 Pasión Tempranillo (Ribera earth and graphite aromas give this rugged young Ri- 81 del Duero). Burnt, gritty and ultraearthy on Ochoa 2002 Reserva Single Vineyard bera complexity to go with racing berry fruit. The palate the nose, with mulchy, herbal accents. The palate is 87 (Navarra). Rooty and sweet smelling, with to- is a bit sharp and pounding, with boysenberry flavors scratchy and tannic, with roasted fruit, scorched earth bacco, burnt brown sugar and raisin aromas. The pal- coming with tannic bite and zest. Crude but fresh and notes and hard tannins. Finishes with light vanilla and ate is thick, stacked and jammy, with raisin, tobacco and clean, this wine should be smoother by the end of 2011 coconut. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. candied prune and cherry flavors. Very tasty and sweet into 2012. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 but a little flat and old. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $30 Emilio Moro 2009 Finca Resalso Tinto RIBERA DEL QUEILES 86 Fino (Ribera del Duero). Earth, cola and PENEDÈS leather aromas are good, however the fruit portion of Winery Arts 2006 Number Nine (Ribera the bouquet is a bit damp and roasted. The palate is 90 del Queiles). Smoky, minty and spicy on the Torres 2007 Reserva Real (Penedès). An hard and rugged, with driving cherry and plum flavors. nose, with plenty of dark fruit and lavish oak. The pal- 93 outstanding Bordeaux-style blend from Spain. Earthy and herbal on the finish. Fine Estates From ate, like the entire wine, is integrated and balanced. To- Ripe and lusty aromas of deep berry fruits, vanilla and Spain. —M.S. bacco, herb, molasses and toasty oak flavors blend well balsam shavings are excellent. Weighty and saturated abv: 14% Price: $15 with ripe, foresty berry notes. Hard and tannic, but ex- on the palate, with elevated cherry, toast, coffee and pressive, fruity and clean for a wine that’s based mostly chocolate flavors. Toes the line between sweet and dry; Emina 2007 Crianza Tempranillo (Ribera on Cabernet Franc. Ole Imports. —M.S. drink now through 2020. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Edi- 86 del Duero). A dark style of Ribera with con- abv: 14.8% Price: $20 tors’ Choice. —M.S. centrated blackberry, licorice and charcoal aromas. The abv: 14.5% Price: $162 palate is more simple and spread out, with heavy tan- Guelbenzu 2007 Azul (Ribera del nins and creamy oak creating a jammy, sweet flavor pro- 88 Queiles). Spicy and rubbery at first, with aro- Jean León 2007 Zemis (Penedès). At- file that offers up a lot of mocha. Finishes tannic and mas of bacon and earthy berry fruit. Staunch across the 92 tractive berry and plum aromas come with dry shallow, with oak-based creaminess. Matarromera USA, tongue, with cola, carob and cassis flavors. Becomes spice, light toast and a hint of char and minerality. Lively Inc. —M.S. leaner and more racy as it finishes, with rooty, herbal and pure in the mouth, with good acidity pushing cassis, abv: 13.5% Price: $21 flavors. 50% Tempranillo with 30% Merlot and 20% raspberry, light herb and spice flavors. Fresh and be- Cabernet Sauvignon. Classical Wines. —M.S. coming more toasty on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Marques de la Concordia 2008 Hacienda abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Cab Franc and Merlot that’ll be best from 2014 through 86 Abascal Crianza Tempranillo (Ribera del 2020. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.S. Duero). Drawn and leathery on the nose, and then as Guelbenzu 2006 EVO (Ribera del abv: 14% Price: $145 it opens it reveals citrusy red fruit aromas. The palate is 88 Queiles). It’s hard to avoid the wine’s rooty, lean and tight, with light cherry, raspberry and plum fla- green aromas of bell pepper and spice, which fall in Jean León 2001 Vinya La Scala Gran front of a thick, bullish, tannic palate with sweet, slight- 90 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). ly baked berry and cassis flavors. Bulky on the finish,

WineMag.com | 47 which deals bitter chocolate and herb flavors. 70% Cab- oak flavor. Paper thin on the finish, with freshening ac- with black fruit galore, shoe polish, peppercorn and ernet Sauvignon with 15% each Merlot and Tempranil- ids and a final blast of oak. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. chocolate aromas. Intense and tannic but layered and lo. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 deep, with a granite body and dark, ripe flavors of black- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 berry, fig, spice and chocolate. Huge, toasted and mod- Bodegas Palacio 2008 Cosme Palacio ern in every way. Drink from 2012 through 2016. Fine 84 Vendimia Seleccionada Tempranillo (Rio- Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. RIOJA ja). Harsh and nervy on the nose, with early aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $69 horseradish and chemical that subside with airing. The San Vicente 2007 Tempranillo (Rioja). palate is medium in size, with grabby tannins and dry, Matsu 2008 Tinta de Toro (Toro). A big, 92 One of Rioja’s best wines is quite fine, but not oaky flavors mixed with herbal berry notes. Finishes 86 burly wine that’s loaded with power and fruit nearly as deep and expressive as it has shown in top vin- resiny and short. HAB North America. —M.S. but is also tannic and drying. Tastes sort of raisiny and tages. The nose offers earth and subtle spice along with abv: 13.5% Price: $18 hot, with grating tannic scrub and fire in the hole. Pret- black fruit, while the palate is deep and smooth, with ty good but it doesn’t have the purity, elegance and blackberry, mocha, cinnamon and nutmeg flavors. Me- Torres 2008 Ibéricos Crianza Tempra- clean richness of the region’s best wines. Rodinia LLC. dium-long on the finish. Drink now through 2015. Fine 83 nillo (Rioja). Earthy and briary aromas lack —M.S. Estates From Spain. —M.S. fruit except for a pinch of cherry. The palate is tight and abv: 15% Price: $49 abv: 14.5% Price: $62 choppy, with herbal, oaky flavors that again show little to no fruit. Dry and lightly toasted on the finish, which Bodegas Roda 2007 Roda I Reserva is tangy. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. CASTILLA Y LEÓN 90 Tempranillo (Rioja). Berry fruit, spice, earth, abv: 14% Price: $21 tea and leather aromas give this off-vintage wine ample Dominio de Eguren 2009 Protocolo Tem- complexity on the bouquet. The palate is layered and Calma 2008 Calma (Rioja). Reedy and 89 pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). stout, with smoky black fruit flavors accented by choco- 81 scratchy smelling, with green, medicinal scents One of the best deals in Spanish red wine you’re like- late and pepper. Toasty and stylish on the finish. Drink mixed in. The palate is all acid, leading to sour plum and ly to find. Protocolo has always delivered value but this now through 2014. Kobrand. —M.S. herbal pie cherry flavors. Super sharp and acidic all the vintage sets a new high standard for $7 Tempranillo. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 way through. Ole Imports. —M.S. It’s deep, ripe and minty on the nose, with berry power abv: 13.5% Price: $15 foretelling a pure, lush palate that’s packed with berry Bodegas Roda 2007 Roda Reserva (Rio- flavors and light herbal shadings. Impressive and su- 90 ja). Maple syrup and gritty raisin aromas turn per tasty, especially given the price. Fine Estates From smoother and more open with air. The palate is layered TORO Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. and structured, with raisin, cherry, pepper and licorice abv: 13.5% Price: $7 flavors. Long, warm and satisfying on the finish, with Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2008 Termanthia classic Rioja vanilla notes. Drink now through 2013. Ko- 94 Tinta de Toro (Toro). Lush and classy, with Dominio de Eguren 2009 Codice Tem- brand. —M.S. earthy blackberry, hard spice, chocolate and lemon peel 87 pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y abv: 14% Price: $45 aromas. The palate is a mile deep and tannic, but it’s not León). Broad and ripe on the nose, with sappy black- too hard or mean, and it tastes fantastic, with ripe black- berry, plum and youthful aromas. The palate is big, Sierra Cantabria 2007 Cuvée Tempra- berry, chocolate, spice and toast flavors. Complex and full and tannic, with roasted plum and berry flavors in 89 nillo (Rioja). Smoky and secure on the nose, masculine, with tobacco and woodspice on the finish. front of a smoky, hickory-driven finish. Chewy, blowsy with dry oak, spice and lighter aromas of red plum and Drink from 2012 through 2016. Moët Hennessy USA. and generous for $10 Tempranillo. Fine Estates From raspberry. The palate is juicy, firm and dry, with snappy Cellar Selection. —M.S. Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. flavors of spiced plum and red cherry. Finishes buttery abv: 14.5% Price: $200 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and creamy, but with tightness and adequate length. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Teso La Monja 2008 Alabaster Tinta de Storks’ Tower 2009 Tríptico Tempranil- abv: 14% Price: $29 93 Toro (Toro). A dark bruiser with heavy mocha, 86 lo-Shiraz (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla chocolate, tobacco, cola and crusty leather aromas in y León). Opaque purple to the eye, which portends Muga 2007 Reserva Unfiltered (Rioja). addition to massive fruit scents. It’s huge in the mouth, the wine’s dark, meaty, jammy aromas of black fruit and 88 Earth, cherry, spice and leather aromas are sub- with broad, grabby tannins, pumped-up acids and wide leather. The palate is chewy and syrupy in feel, with tle and do not overpower. The palate is kind of snappy berry, vanilla and coconut flavors. Dark like coffee on massive but basic blackberry, toast and peppery flavors. and tangy, which may be due to 20% Graciano in the the finish, with titanic tannins and foundation. Best Big and hot on the finish, with size but suspect balance. blend. Flavors of tomato, herbs and red berry are firm from 2013 through 2016. Fine Estates From Spain. 67% Tempranillo and 33% Shiraz. HAB North Ameri- and perky, while the finish is dry and tight. Drink now Cellar Selection. —M.S. ca. —M.S. through 2014. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $243 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2008 Numanthia Finca Constancia 2009 Parcela 23 Tem- Viña Olabarri 2008 Bikandi Crianza Tem- 92 Tinta de Toro (Toro). Smells floral, toasty and 84 pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). 85 pranillo (Rioja). Spice and dark fruit aromas black fruited, with cola and tobacco notes. Like all pre- Opens with aromas of funky fruit, sweet spice and Band- settle fairly well. It’s light to medium across the palate, vious Numanthias, this is hugely structured and tannic, Aid. The palate is heavy and kind of flat, with weight and with zesty acidity and standard flavors of black cherry, with ripe berry, spice and bitter chocolate flavors. Fin- richness. Tastes candied and herbal, with a sweet and plum and pepper. Crisp and clean on the finish, con- ishes massive, with mocha, coffee and toast. Grabby and syrupy finish that’s sticky at first and then burns a little firming its basic but juicy disposition. P-S Wines. —M.S. hard now, but delicious. Needs two more years in bottle; as it fades away. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 drink from 2012 through 2016. Moët Hennessy USA. abv: 14% Price: $21 Cellar Selection. —M.S. Bodegas Bilbainas 2008 Viña Zaco Tem- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Tapeña 2009 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier- 84 pranillo (Rioja). Ultratight cherry and plum 83 ra de Castilla). Concentrated on the nose, aromas create a lean red fruit profile. The palate is extra Teso La Monja 2008 Victorino Tinta de with medicinal berry aromas that become more stemmy crisp and sheer, with piercing raspberry then a wash of 92 Toro (Toro). Smoky and big on the bouquet, and herbal with time. The flavor profile is herbal and

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 medicinal just like the bouquet; solid in terms of feel. Dierberg 2008 Chardonnay (Santa Maria ular style, with good acidity, but the heavy hand of oak Freixenet USA. —M.S. 91 Valley). A beautiful Chardonnay marked by vi- limits the score. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 brant acidity, like a generous squeeze of lime, and el- abv: 15% Price: $50 egant flavors of lemons, limes and pineapples, with a hint of gooseberry and a smoky overlay of oak. Made in Firestone 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Ynez OTHER REDS a leaner, low alcohol but complex style, it’s a great wine 88 Valley). A fine, balanced Chardonnay, with for shellfish. —S.H. plenty of richness and sophistication, at a good price. Castillo de Almansa 2009 Monastrell (Al- abv: NA Price: $32 It shows satisfying complexities of ripe pineapples and 85 mansa). Starts out round and red fruited be- tangerines, accented with creamy lees and the vanilla fore turning more herbal and raw with air. The palate is Merryvale 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros). and buttered toast flavors of oak barrel fermentation. thick and rugged, with green-inflected strawberry and 91 For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. raspberry flavors. Quick, minty tasting and gritty on the abv: 14.1% Price: $17 finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. De Loach 2009 La Reine Chardonnay abv: 14% Price: $10 90 (Russian River Valley). The modern, high Cartlidge & Browne 2009 Chardonnay alcohol style marks this Chardonnay. It’s superripe in or- 87 (North Coast). This wine doesn’t offer a lot Silvae 2009 Made With Organic Grapes ange, pear and yellow apricot flavors, with an elaborate aromatically at first but opens nicely to lemon, lime and 84 Monastrell (Spain). Herbal, earthy aromas coating of sweet new oak, with all of its caramel, honey vanilla flavors. The moderately priced, moderate in al- tell the story. The wine has heft and stemmy qualities, and butterscotch elaborations. Flamboyant, and ready cohol Chardonnay is bright and clean overall and a very with sweet berry and coffee flavors along with mount- now with rich fare. —S.H. good value. Best Buy. —V.B. ing warmth. Turns more herbal and earthy as it airs out, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 with staunch acidity and a rubbery tannic grip. The Tri- ton Collection. —M.S. De Loach 2009 OFS Chardonnay (Rus- De Loach 2009 Ritchie Vineyard Char- abv: 14% Price: $9 90 sian River Valley). This “finest selection” 87 donnay (Russian River Valley). Made in Chardonnay is a blend of the winery’s various vineyards. the modern California style, new oak dominates this Carro 2009 Tinto (Yecla). Stemmy, compost It’s pretty oaky, with vanilla, buttered toast and honey Chardonnay. Even though unused French barrels ac- 81 aromas lead to a rubbery, tannic palate with dominating, yet there are enough tropical fruit, orange, counts for only 30% of the blend, the aromas and flavors herbal, almost weedy flavors of baked berry. Caramel pear and apricot flavors, and brisk acidity, to counter- of buttered toast, vanilla and caramel swamp what oth- and green notes show up late. Ole Imports. —M.S. balance the wood. Drink now. —S.H. erwise seems like a good, crisp, tropically fruited wine. abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Earns an extra point for fine minerality, the result of its pedigreed vineyard originis —S.H. Dierberg 2009 Steel Chardonnay (Santa abv: 14.5% Price: $40 CALIFORNIA WHITES 89 Maria Valley). As rich as Chardonnay gets in California, offering massive waves of pineapple jam, Dutton Estate 2009 Kyndall’s Reserve CHARDONNAY apricots, tangerines and tropical notes of papayas and 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Flirts guavas. Without oak, the fruit stars, along with tantaliz- with being overoaked, with a flood of buttered toast, va- Talbott 2009 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ing acidity. —S.H. nilla and butterscotch notes that dominate. After that 93 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). As abv: NA Price: $32 some powerful flavors of Asian pears, tangerines and always with this vineyard, the wine is superripe, almost pineapples kick in, brightened with acidity. Drink it overripe, with extracted pineapple, pear, nectarine and Harbison Wines 2007 Le Bon Climat now. —S.H. peach flavors that are impossibly ripe. New oak adds 89 Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Val- abv: 14.6% Price: $37 even richer vanilla, caramel and buttered toast notes. ley). The fruit on this drily complex Chardonnay is Great acidity and a firm minerality fortunately balance starting to fall out, giving an herb, cashew nut edge to Gary Farrell 2009 Westside Farms Char- all this flamboyance, but it’s still a pretty powerful Char- the pineapples, tangerines and apricots. The wine re- 87 donnay (Russian River Valley). Extrava- donnay. Drink with rich lobster, scallop and tuna dishes. tains its sweet coating of buttered toast and vanilla hon- gantly rich and oaky, this Chardonnay detonates on the —S.H. ey. Will continue to dry and become earthier over the palate with pineapple, lemon and orange jam, buttered abv: 14.9% Price: $40 next several years. —S.H. toast and vanilla cream flavors. Finishes honey sweet, abv: 13% Price: $75 but a nice edge of acidity provides needed balance. De Loach 2009 Stubbs Vineyard Char- —S.H. 92 donnay (Marin County). Brisk acidity is the Pietra Santa 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay abv: 14.2% Price: $40 best feature of this wine. It reflects the long hangtime of 89 (Cienega Valley). Nothing but fruit in this the cool vintage. Lots of new French oak brings vanilla Chardonnay, and what pretty fruit it is. Really delicious Gary Farrell 2008 Starr Ridge Vineyard and buttered toast to the equation, but it’s in keeping in pineapple, peach, lemon, lime, green melon and va- 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). With with the power of the underlying pineapple and lemon nilla flavors, with fine acidity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. savory acidity and a nice, dry finish, this three-year-old jam, pear and honey flavors. A decadent, flashy Char- abv: 13% Price: $18 Chardonnay tastes as fresh and rich as a brand-new re- donnay for drinking now with rich dishes, such as lob- lease. It has pineapple, tangerine, lemon, lime and apri- ster and scallops. —S.H. Annika Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay cot flavors, enhanced with the vanilla and buttered toast abv: 14.5% Price: $35 88 (Livermore Valley). For full review see page 9. of oak. Drink now for sheer opulence. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $40 Testarossa 2009 Brosseau Vineyard De Loach 2009 Hawk Hill Vineyard Char- 92 Chardonnay (Chalone). Massively rich in 88 donnay (Russian River Valley). With notes Holman Ranch 2010 Estate Chardonnay ripe pineapple, lemon curd, golden mango and white of buttered toast, honey and vanilla cream, this Char- 87 (Carmel Valley). Dry and acidic. If you’re peach flavors, this Chardonnay also shows plenty of new donnay is overpowered by new oak barrel influences. looking for a rich, opulent Chardonnay, go elsewhere. oak influence in the vanilla and buttered toast layers. As Beneath that are delicious fruit flavors of pineapples, This one’s citrusy and minerally, in the manner of an el- rich as it is, it’s balanced with zesty acidity and a refresh- oranges, pears and apricots. Rich and flashy in the pop- egant Chablis. It offers a useful alternative to the mod- ing minerality that has got to come from the dirt. —S.H. ern, ultraripe, oaky style. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $41 abv: 12.5% Price: $28

WineMag.com | 49 Moone-Tsai 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Val- Artesa 2009 Estate Reserve Chardonnay wine, with caramelized new oak and sugary pineapple, 87 ley). Tight acidity and minerality mark this 85 (Carneros). Like tasting toothpicks. New oak orange and apricot jam flavors, brightened with crisp bone-dry Chardonnay. It’s stubborn now, offering hints accounts for just 40% of the aging, yet dominates with acidity. Will appeal to those who like this style. —S.H. of tangerines, apricots and limes, with lots of new oak caramel, vanilla and buttered toast. Somewhere below abv: 14.5% Price: $18 and leesy cream and vanilla. Give it a few hours in a are pineapple, pear, lime and honey flavors. Will ap- decanter. —S.H. peal to Chardophiles who enjoy this New World style. Dutton Estate 2009 Warren’s Collection abv: 14.7% Price: $50 —S.H. 84 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The abv: 14.5% Price: $26 poster child for too much oak. Swamps with buttered Parducci 2009 Chardonnay (Mendocino toast, caramel, butterscotch and vanilla flavors that are 87 County). For full review see page 12. Cache Creek Vineyards 2008 Chardon- so sweet, it’s almost like a dessert wine. There’s lots of 85 nay (Lake County). A well-priced, easy-to- tangerines, pineapples, apricots and apples, but those Round Hill 2010 Oak Free Chardonnay like Lake County Chardonnay with lots of minerality barrel influences are too much. —S.H. 87 (California). For full review see page 13. and lemony richness that starts to fall flat and sweet abv: 15.3% Price: $40 on the finish. A little more acidity and a little less sugar Sea Mist 2010 Chardonnay (Russian Riv- would have made this a better wine. —V.B. Manzanita Creek 2010 Elegance Char- 87 er Valley). A rich, ripe, oaky style of Chardon- abv: 14.1% Price: $12 84 donnay (Russian River Valley). This is a nay. Explosive in pineapple, tangerine, lemon and apri- soft, simple Chardonnay, sugary sweet in vanilla, cara- cot jam flavors with buttered toast and honey. It’s almost Cinnabar 2008 Skyland Vineyard Char- mel, peach and pineapple jam and spice flavors. A good as sweet as a dessert wine. —S.H. 85 donnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). A pon- coat of acidity provides needed balance. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $16 derous Chardonnay, marked by excessive new oak fla- abv: 14.3% Price: $25 vors and the heavy hand of the winemaker. Shows pine- Sonoma-Cutrer 2007 Les Pierres Char- apple, pear and tangerine flavors, but the barrel and Pure Cru 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Val- 87 donnay (Sonoma Coast). Dry and crisp, malolactic additions soften and sweeten them. —S.H. 84 ley). Takes the popular route, with caramelized with a fine, clean minerality, this Chardonnay is domi- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 oak and ripe fruit that taste sweet. Almost like a dessert nated by the vanilla and toast of oak. The underlying wine, showing tangerine, vanilla and buttered toast fla- wine shows pineapple, Asian pear and lime flavors. It’s J Vineyards & Winery 2009 Chardon- vors that pall after a sip or two. —S.H. elegant, but a little thin. —S.H. 85 nay (Russian River Valley). With 35% new abv: 14.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $36 French oak, this wine is dominated by the vanilla, but- tered toast and caramel of wood. Underneath all that Robert Mondavi 2010 Private Selection Dutton Estate 2009 Dutton Palms Vine- are pineapple, lemon and pear fruit flavors. —S.H. 84 Chardonnay (California). For the price, a 86 yard Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian abv: 14.3% Price: $28 pretty good Chardonnay. It’s dryish to sweet, with pine- River Valley). Flashy and flamboyant, but smells and apple, orange, buttered toast and vanilla flavors. —S.H. tastes overoaked, with buttered toast, caramel and va- J. Lohr 2009 October Night Chardonnay abv: 13.5% Price: $11 nilla meringue notes swamping the underlying tanger- 85 (Arroyo Seco). For full review see page 9. ine, lemon and mango fruit. Drink now. —S.H. Shipwreck 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros). abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Round Hill 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- 84 Sweet and candied, with pineapple and tanger- 85 nia). Most of the grapes come from the south- ine jam, vanilla cream and buttered toast flavors. Inter- ecoVINO 2010 AstraPouch Chardon- ern Central Valley, and they give ripe Chardonnay fla- estingly, the oak is from Hungary. —S.H. 86 nay (Mendocino County). A 100%-organic vors of pineapples and pears. Oak, in whatever form it abv: 14.8% Price: $15 Chardonnay, stainless steel fermented and poured into was applied, dominates with vanilla, buttered toast and a handy-dandy, also certified-organic AstraPouch (1.5 caramel notes. If you like a little sweetness, it’s for you. Three Saints 2009 Chardonnay (Santa liter). This easy-to-bring-on-a-picnic wine is clean, bal- Best Buy. —S.H. 84 Maria Valley). Thin in fruit but lopsided in anced and simply drinkable with a note of sweet grape- abv: 12.5% Price: $8 oak, with vanilla, toast and caramel flavors swamping fruit and pineapple. —V.B. the pineapples and limes. Gets the basic Chardonnay abv: 13.5% Price: $10/1.5 L Sharabella Wines 2009 Mery nel Cielo job done. —S.H. 85 Chardonnay (Lodi). Light, bright and bal- abv: NA Price: $20 Manzanita Creek 2010 Foothill Vineyard anced, this inexpensive Chardonnay is not complex and 86 Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). A rich, oaky Char- could use a little oomph in there somewhere, but has Concannon 2010 Selected Vineyards donnay, fairly standard issue. It’s sweet and opulent in enough apple and pear flavor to get you through. —V.B. 83 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Simple and vanilla, caramel, buttered toast, pineapple marmalade abv: 13.03% Price: $13 sweet, with jammy pineapple, orange and apricot fla- and ripe pear flavors, in a creamy texture. —S.H. vors leading to a soft, honeyed finish. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $32 Brophy Clark 2009 Chardonnay (Santa abv: 13% Price: $10 84 Maria Valley). Combines brisk acidity and Oakville Ranch 2008 Chardonnay (Napa minerality with orange, pineapple and honey flavors. Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor's Reserve 86 Valley). Way too much oak on this wine, which The oak overlay is sweet and heavy. —S.H. 83 Chardonnay (California). For full review is dominated by buttered toast and butterscotch aromas abv: 14.1% Price: $13 see page 14. and flavors. Underneath all that you’ll find pineapples and guavas. —S.H. Clos La Chance 2010 Chardonnay (Mon- Starmont 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Val- abv: 15.2% Price: $40 84 terey County). This is a rich, fruity Chardon- 83 ley). It’s all about oak in this Chardonnnay. Not nay that’s sweet in pineapple, orange and buttered toast much going on beyond the obvious attempt at flattery Schug 2008 Heritage Reserve Chardon- flavors. A nice cut of acidity provides needed balance. with buttered toast and vanilla flavors. Maybe a little 86 nay (Carneros). An earthy Chardonnay, with —S.H. peach and pineapple candy thrown in for good mea- herb-infused citrus and peach flavors, overlaid with abv: 13.5% Price: $15 sure. —S.H. sweet oak. It’s soft and a little sweet and ready to drink abv: 13.5% Price: $20 now. —S.H. De Loach 2009 Chardonnay (Russian abv: 14% Price: $35 84 River Valley). Tastes as sweet as a dessert

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Cupcake 2010 Chardonnay (Central PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO Nelson Family Vineyards 2009 Estate 82 Coast). A soft, frankly sweet wine, almost like 88 Grown Riesling (Mendocino). Nelson Fam- a dessert sipper, with orange, apricot and honey flavors. Pietra Santa 2010 Signature Collection ily Vineyards is quietly making some mighty nice aro- —S.H. 88 Amore Pinot Grigio (Cienega Valley). matic white wines, all estate-grown from their property. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 There’s no oak on this wine, so it depends on the natu- This Riesling is opulent and fragrant with orange blos- ral flavors of the grapes. And how good they are. Rich som and honey on the tongue, medium in weight with and opulent in pineapples, lemons, oranges, honeysuck- a little residual sugar (officially off-dry) and 12.6% al- GEWÜRZTRAMINER le flowers and vanilla, the wine is brightened with crisp cohol. —V.B. acidity. —S.H. abv: 12.6% Price: $16 Gundlach Bundschu 2010 Estate Vine- abv: 14.3% Price: $24 90 yard Gewürztraminer (Sonoma Coast). Little Black Dress 2010 Riesling (Califor- For full review see page 7. Holman Ranch 2010 Pinot Gris (Carmel 87 nia). With only 11.5% alcohol, this Riesling has 86 Valley). A likable, easy to drink wine, totally some residual sugar, giving the tangerine and apricot Novy 2010 Gewürztraminer (Russian dry and brisk in acidity, with low alcohol. It has savory flavors a sweet finish. Fine, crisp acidity makes it clean 87 River Valley). If you like your white wines on flavors of lemons, limes, oranges and spices. —S.H. and brisk. A nice cocktail wine, and to drink with spicy the sugary sweet side, this one’s for you. Shows classic abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Asian shrimp or scallop dishes. Best Buy. —S.H. Gewürz spiciness, with ripe tangerine, apricot, peach abv: 11.5% Price: $11 and honeysuckle flavors, and the acidity is just fine. The Concannon 2010 Selected Vineyards Pi- alcohol is a modest 12.5%. —S.H. 85 not Grigio (Central Coast). For full review Bota Box 2009 Riesling (California). For abv: 12.5% Price: $19 see page 14. 86 full review see page 13.

Courtney Benham 2010 Gewürztraminer Luna 2009 Pinot Grigio (Napa Valley). 85 (Santa Barbara County). For full review see 85 Off-dry and direct in citrus, apricot, green apple SAUVIGNON BLANC page 14. and honey flavors, this easy-drinking wine is refreshed with crisp acidity. Good now as a cocktail sipper. —S.H. Brander 2010 Mesa Verde Vineyard Sau- abv: NA Price: $18 92 vignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This is MOSCATO/MUSCAT the best of Brander’s 2010 Sauvignon Blancs, and the Big House 2010 The Birdman Pinot Gri- price is very good. It’s rich and stylish, especially consid- Nelson Family Vineyards 2009 Estate 84 gio (California). A simple, easy wine to drink, ering it never saw any oak. Brisk in acids and minerals, it 88 Grown Orange Muscat (Mendocino). An- crisp and slightly sweet in orange, lime, peach and pear offers flavors of citrus fruits, peaches and white pepper. other exuberant white from Mendocino’s Nelson Fam- flavors. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ily, this Muscat is exceedingly fragrant, mostly of sweet abv: NA Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 jasmine, peach and candied orange. Slightly sweet the estate-grown white still has acid and would pair well Bota Box 2010 Pinot Grigio (California). Neal Family 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa with something spicy, either Asian food, spiced shrimp 84 For full review see page 14. 92 Valley). Maybe it’s the 100% certified organic or barbecued oysters. —V.B. grapes that make this wine so pure, or the fact that it abv: 13.6% Price: $21 Glen Ellen 2010 Proprietor‘s Reserve Pi- never saw oak. Probably both. The fruit stands front and 84 not Grigio (California). For full review see center, with flavors of lemons, limes, Asian pears, lem- Barefoot Bubbly NV Moscato Spumante page 14. ongrass and gooseberries. A superior Sauvignon Blanc, 86 Champagne (California). A sweet style of at a great price, but production unfortunately was less sparkling wine, with brisk acidity framing orange, lime, Pietra Santa 2010 Estate Grown Pinot than 1,000 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. vanilla and honey flavors. Nice with wedding cake, at a 84 Grigio (Cienega Valley). Sweetness marks abv: 13.7% Price: $18 good price. Best Buy. —S.H. this wine, giving it a sugary finish. The flavors are jam- abv: 10.5% Price: $11 my, of pineapples, oranges and apricots. A good hit of Hall 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). acidity provides vital balance. —S.H. 91 Another in a string of great Sauvignon Blancs Little Black Dress 2010 Moscato (Califor- abv: 13% Price: $18 from Hall. The wine is richly textured in citrus, green 86 nia). There’s a lot of residual sugar in this low- apple and peach flavors, with a zingy hint of gooseberry. alcohol wine. It’s frankly sweet in orange, peach and va- Robert Mondavi 2010 Pinot Grigio (Cali- Acidity is crisp, and the finish is curiously dry and sweet nilla flavors, but a crisp edge of acidity makes it finish 83 fornia). Overtly sweet, with a white sugar edge in honey at the same time. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. clean and vibrant. Best Buy. —S.H. to the citrus fruits, this is basically a dessert wine. Earns abv: NA Price: $22 abv: 8% Price: $11 extra credit for cleanness and crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Cliff Lede 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Martin & Weyrich 2010 Allegro Moscato 90 Valley). A fine, crisp Sauvignon Blanc, offering 86 (California). America’s sweet tooth seems to lots of sweet citrus fruits, honey and spices that venture be returning, especially for Moscato, and this sweetie RIESLING into real complexity. The flavors of tangerines, Asian satisfies for its orange soda, honey and vanilla cream fla- pears, Meyer lemons and green apples are rich and vors. —S.H. Ludwig 2009 Sweetwater Vineyard Ries- intricate, brightened by fine acidity. Editors’ Choice. abv: 7.5% Price: $12 89 ling (Monterey). Made in the style of a nice —S.H. German Riesling, with a little sweetness. It’s a fine wine, abv: 14.7% Price: $23 Barefoot NV Deliciously Sweet Moscato showing classic varietal flavors of lychee, Asian pear, 85 (California). For full review see page 14. orange, honeysuckle and white pepper, and a distinct Sea Mist 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian note of diesel. Crisp Monterey acidity makes the fin- 90 River Valley). For full review see page 8. ish clean. Worth a search, but production was low. Best Buy. —S.H. Selene 2010 Hyde Vineyards Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $14 90 Blanc (Carneros). A rare Sauvignon Blanc from the Carneros region, this bottle is rich and full

WineMag.com | 51 bodied. Made with one-quarter new French oak, it has Roth 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander steel fermented Lake County SB with tangy lemon and a buttered toast and vanilla richness alongside ultraripe, 87 Valley). A brisk, fruity Sauvignon Blanc that lime notes, subtle at first. The finish falls off fast. —V.B. long hangtime pineapple, citron, lime and honeysuckle flatters with rich flavors of pineapples, lemons, limes abv: 14.2% Price: $12 flavors. A complex wine to drink now. —S.H. and papayas. There’s a honeyed sweetness, but it’s basi- abv: 14.9% Price: $28 cally dry. Easy to drink as a cocktail sipper. —S.H. Avalon 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- abv: 13.2% Price: $14 84 nia). Pretty green and unripe, but saved at the Benziger 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (So- last minute by some rich citrus, apple and honeysuckle 88 noma County). A really pretty Sauvignon Whitehall Lane 2010 Sauvignon Blanc flavors. Finishes nice and dry and acidic. —S.H. Blanc, crisp in acidity and with a tangy mineral streak 87 (Napa Valley). If There’s any oak on this dry abv: NA Price: $15 that gives punch to the fruit. Rich in orange, Meyer wine, it doesn’t show, except for a touch of vanilla. The lemon and lime flavors, it finishes with a touch of honey. flavors of lemons, limes, gooseberries, peaches and Pedroncelli 2010 East Side Vineyards A steal at this price. Best Buy. —S.H. green apples star, brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Brisk abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $16 acidity is the best thing about this sweet Sauvignon Blanc. It has jammy flavors of pineapples and oranges. Cartlidge & Browne 2009 Dancing Crow C.G. di Arie 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Bring on the sausages and ham. —S.H. 88 Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Lake Coun- 86 (Shenandoah Valley of California). A zippy abv: 13.6% Price: $12 ty). A great, inexpensive example of Lake County’s Sierra Foothills SB with pleasing grapefruit and a coat- prowess at Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is marked by ing of minerals, this wine has length and lift. —V.B. Robert Mondavi 2010 Private Selection grapefruit and kiwi throughout and a creamy opulence abv: 13.9% Price: $18 84 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Off-dry, with that should appeal to a wide range of palates and plates. pineapple, lime, lemon, grapefruit and vanilla flavors, —V.B. Clos La Chance 2010 Estate Sauvignon fortunately balanced with crisp acidity. A decent, clean abv: 13% Price: $14 86 Blanc (Central Coast). Good price for a wine and affordable white wine for cocktails. —S.H. that combines the acidity you want in a Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Madrigal 2010 Estate Sauvignon Blanc with plenty of ripe tangerine, lime, green grass and va- 88 (Calistoga). Brisk acidity gives this ripe, hon- nilla flavors. There’s a honeyed finish, but the wine is Starmont 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa eyed wine a much-needed hit of crispness. The flavors fundamentally dry. —S.H. 83 Valley). Dry and crisp in acidity, with citrus fla- are very rich, of tangerines, papayas and the sweet taste abv: 14.5% Price: $15 vors, but fundamentally unripe. It has a strong streak of of Meyer lemons. Delightful and satisfying for a cocktail green chlorophyll, mint and ammonia that could chari- sipper, or with Thai, Vietnamese or Chinese pork and Dancing Derby 2009 Sauvignon Blanc tably be described as gooseberry. —S.H. chicken dishes. —S.H. 86 (California). A good, off-dry useful wine for abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 drinking across the board with a wide variety of fare, or by itself as a cocktail. It’s brisk and clean, with pleasant Parducci 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- citrus, apricot, spice and vanilla flavors. —S.H. VIOGNIER 88 docino County). For full review see page 11. abv: NA Price: $13 Rivino 2009 Estate, Schrader Ranch Amador Foothill Winery 2010 Sauvignon Concannon 2010 Selected Vineyards 88 Viognier (Mendocino). A very pretty Viog- 87 Blanc (Shenandoah Valley of California). 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). For full nier from a small estate producer in Mendocino, this Smelling sweet of candied orange and jasmine, this ma- review see page 14. wine is 100% Viognier with no oak and no malolactic jority SB with about a quarter Sémillion blended in has fermentation employed. Medium to almost full-bodied, pleasing flavors and textures and is crisp, a nice effort Dutton Estate 2009 Cohen Vineyard Sau- it has impressive texture, plush flavors of honeydew and from the husband and wife winemaking team at this 85 vignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). The honey and a slightly sweet finish. —V.B. longstanding Sierra Foothills stalwart. —V.B. wine is unoaked, but tastes strangely strong in vanilla abv: 14.6% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 and buttered toast. Whatever the aging regime, it’s jam- my in apricots, tangerines and mangoes that finish sweet Sean Thackrey 2010 Noble Vineyard Lyra Holman Ranch 2010 Estate Sauvignon and hot. —S.H. 88 Viognier (Knights Valley). A powerful, au- 87 Blanc (Carmel Valley). Bone dry and acidic, abv: 15.6% Price: $22 dacious Viognier, explosive in tropical fruit, vanilla, but- this Sauvignon Blanc shows mouthwatering flavors of tered toast and butterscotch flavors. All that richness is lemons, limes, grapefruits and tart, sour gooseberries. Dutton Estate 2009 Kylie’s Cuvée Dutton balanced by crisp acidity and a fine minerality. Still, it’s a The alcohol is refeshingly low, a mere 12.4%. —S.H. 85 Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Russian Riv- big, honeyed wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 er Valley). Strong and punchy in orange, pineapple, abv: NA Price: $36 peach, apricot and green apple flavors, this unoaked Longboard 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- wine has a honeyed sweetness that makes it taste like Novy 2009 Viognier (Russian River Val- 87 sian River Valley). With just a touch of oak fruit punch. —S.H. 87 ley). Crunchy acidity marks this Viognier, giv- providing creamy vanilla flavors, this wine’s real stars are abv: 14.6% Price: $20 ing it a palate brightness and making the apricot, tan- the lemon, lime and tropical fruit flavors, which have gerine, peach, pear and honeysuckle flavors finish drier such a pretty minerality. It’s a little sweet, but refreshing Merryvale 2010 Juliana Vineyards Sauvi- than they probably really are. It’s an exotic, rich wine acidity balances that out. —S.H. 85 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley). Rather aggres- that drinks well with Vietnamese fare, or a peanut-star- abv: 14.1% Price: $20 sive in green hay aromas and flavors that are acidic and ring Cambodian beef or chicken dish. —S.H. suggest ammonia, with richer notes of lemons, limes abv: 14.1% Price: $19 Novy 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian and grapefruits. The wine is bone dry. If you like that 87 River Valley). This is a very rich, fruity Sau- New Zealand gooseberry thing on steroids, it’s for you. Perry Creek 2009 Altitude: 2401, Le Se- vignon Blanc, offering waves of pineapple, guava, lime, —S.H. 87 ducteur Viognier (El Dorado). Perry Creek green apple and honeysuckle flavors. Crisp acidity gives abv: 13.5% Price: $26 has done a nice job on this Viognier. It has a pretty, very it a fine tartness. Nice for drinking now with spicy tapas floral nose, and its aromatics make it inviting through- appetizers. —S.H. Stephen Vincent 2009 Sauvignon Blanc out, a small percentage of Marsanne and Roussanne abv: 14.1% Price: $19 85 (Lake County). A perfectly simple, stainless-

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 coming through. Medium-bodied, it just finishes a per- made out of the Sierra Foothills screams for seafood. If Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2010 Capp centage too sweet to taste truly balanced. —V.B. you’ve never tasted a California Verdelho, this would be 87 Vineyard Malvasia Bianca (Suisun Val- abv: 14.6% Price: $20 a good place to start. —V.B. ley). Briny, rich and layered, this is an interesting white abv: 13.9% Price: $18 from a Russian River Valley-based producer who is Adelaida 2009 The Glenrose Vineyard sourcing Malvasia Bianca in this case from a vineyard 86 Viognier (Paso Robles). Sweet peach, man- Cinnabar 2010 Mercury Rising Blanc in the Suisun Valley, inland and east of the Napa Valley go, papaya, citrus fruit and honey flavors mark this opu- 89 (California). Brisk acidity, dryness and intense on the way to Sacramento. Dry and crisp, the typical- lent young wine. It brims with acidity, yet is very high citrus fruits mark this blend of mostly Sauvignon Blanc, ly Greek varietal in this version has hints of honey and in alcohol. Best now with exotic, Asian-inspired spicy with a little Picpoul Blanc and Grenache Blanc. The or- nuts and dried fruit. Drink it young. —V.B. dishes. —S.H. ange, lime and green grass flavors call for spicy Asian abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 15.6% Price: $30 fare. There’s no oak on this delightfully clean, stimulat- ing wine. —S.H. Tablas Creek 2010 Vermentino (Paso Jorian Hill 2009 Viognier (Santa Ynez Val- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 87 Robles). Bone dry and crisp in mouthwater- 86 ley). Plenty of ripe, luxurious fruit and flowers ing acidity, this unoaked, cocktail-style wine has citrus, in this Viognier, accented with brisk acidity. Floods the Elyse 2009 L’Ingenue, Naggiar Vineyard white flower, white pepper and mineral flavors. With mouth with tangerine, pineapple, lemon, lime, honey- 89 (Sierra Foothills). This delightful wine is a low alcohol, it’s a fine starter for the evening. —S.H. suckle and vanilla flavors that finish fairly sweet and sug- blend of 36% Roussanne, 35% Viognier, 20% Marsanne abv: 13.1% Price: $27 ary. Drink now. —S.H. and 9% Grenache Blanc. After about a year in French abv: 14.1% Price: $30 oak, the result is well-balanced, minerally, viscous with Incognito 2010 White (Lodi). A relatively a lengthy finish and notes of fig, pear and peach. —V.B. 86 small-production offering from Michael David abv: 14.6% Price: $28 at 3,600 cases, this white wine blend is quaffable, full- SPARKLING WINE bodied and slightly sweet. —V.B. Kiamie 2009 White Kuvée Viognier-Rous- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Korbel NV Brut (California). For full review 89 sanne (Paso Robles). A welcome hit of crisp 87 see page 12. acidity is just what this slightly sweet wine needs. It’s Cosentino 2008 The Novelist Meritage rich and complex in tangerine, apricot, kiwi and honey 83 (California). A clumsy wine that aims for flavors, with a sweet coat of oak. Drink as an exotic al- white Bordeaux in style and falls far short. There’s plen- OTHER WHITES ternative to an oaky Chardonnay. —S.H. ty of oak and lees, but the underlying wine is thin and abv: 14.5% Price: $26 disappointing in citrus flavor. —S.H. Calcareous 2009 Viognier-Marsanne abv: 14.1% Price: $18 91 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 6. Vesper Vineyards 2009 Alcala, Highland 88 Hills Vineyard Marsanne-Roussanne (Ra- Von Strasser 2010 Estate Vineyard mona Valley). A very fragrant, dark-honey Marsanne- DESSERT WHITES 91 Grüner Veltliner (Diamond Mountain). Roussanne blend from Ramona Valley, an AVA within Von Strasser, which was early to introduce this variety to San Diego County. The wine’s blend is 55% Marsanne, Stephen & Walker 2009 Late-Harvest California, continues to dominate the scores. The wine 45% Roussanne, a well-integrated co-mingling of the 92 Chardonnay (Mendocino Ridge). For full nicely combines a minerally dryness with sweet apricot, two with jasmine and apricot flavors and a bit of a bite review see page 6. lime, peach, honey and vanilla flavors, finished with a on the finish. —V.B. fine scour of acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 Heringer 2009 Late-Harvest Chardon- abv: 12.5% Price: $35 89 nay (Clarksburg). In nose, this dark-golden Bello Family Vineyards 2009 Marsanne late-harvest Chardonnay smells almost like a traditional Vina Robles 2010 White4 (Paso Robles). 87 (Napa Valley). A rich, ripe, sweet wine, French cider, a sentiment that carries through in the 90 For full review see page 8. marked by upfront orange and apricot flavors, well- flavor, though this wine takes on much richer, sweeter oaked, and finished with pleasant acidity. With the tones. Best Buy. —V.B. Beckmen 2009 Le Bec Blanc (Santa Ynez weight of a Chardonnay, it’s a direct wine to drink now. abv: 11% Price: $13/375 ml 89 Valley). A big, full-bodied, extracted wine. —S.H. Although it’s dry, it’s enormous in tangerines, lemons, abv: 14.2% Price: $38 Naggiar 2009 Estate Grown Viognier peaches, yellow apricots and golden mangoes, finished 86 (Sierra Foothills). This late-harvest Viogni- with zesty spices. Lots of acidity, too, which makes it Blue Nomad 2010 Bright Light (Califor- er looks like a still wine as it comes out of the bottle, mouthwatering. Strikes an interesting pose midway be- 87 nia). Made from Chardonnay, Albariño and exploding with honey and wildflowers on the nose. Its tween Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. —S.H. Gewürztraminer, this is a clean white wine, brisk in fruitiness is restrained somewhat and would stand out abv: 13.9% Price: $18 acidity. It has slightly sweet flavors of tangerines, apri- paired with a crème brûlée—though on its own, the al- cots, peaches and honey. A nice, versatile wine, espe- cohol is overpowering. —V.B. Bokisch 2010 Terra Alta Vineyard Al- cially with today’s ethnic fare, ranging from Mexican to abv: 15.8% Price: $28/500 ml 89 bariño (Clements Hills). Bokisch remains a Vietnamese. Best Buy. —S.H. small, family-owned brand to watch out of Lodi, a hus- abv: 14.1% Price: $12 band and wife team devoted to Spanish and Portuguese ROSÉS varieties they mostly grow themselves. This light, re- De Loach 2009 Pinot Blanc (Russian Riv- freshing Albarino has green apple and pear to spare and 87 er Valley). A Chardonnay-like wine, but more Toad Hollow 2010 Eye of the Toad Dry lovely, dry acidity, its Catalan roots evident in the wine’s citrusy, with tangerine, lemon and mineral flavors. Oak 90 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). For overall Old-World style. It screams for seafood. —V.B. brings sweeter complications of vanilla and buttered full review see page 10. abv: 12% Price: $16 toast, while crisp acidity makes it all fresh and clean. —S.H. Amador Foothill Winery 2010 Rosato C.G. di Arie 2009 Verdelho (Shenandoah abv: 14.5% Price: $24 88 Sangiovese (Amador County). Dark pink 89 Valley of California). Crisp and lemony with in color this rosato, or rosé of Sangiovese, is a delight, a full, honeyed and rich finish, this Portuguese white

WineMag.com | 53 fruity and refreshing with some substance behind it and Red Truck 2009 Pink Truck Rosé (Cali- delicious now, it makes you wonder why you should a touch of spice on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. 86 fornia). Hard to say if this is a dessert wine or even risk more than six years in the cellar. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 a rosé, because it’s fairly sweet. Let’s call it a rosé. And a abv: 14.5% Price: $175 pretty one it is, with savory orange, raspberry and vanilla Blackbird Vineyards 2010 Arriviste Rosé flavors, balanced with acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. Sequoia Grove 2007 Rutherford Bench 88 (Napa Valley). A good, dry rosé, as a blush abv: 10.5% Price: $9 96 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruther- should be, with raspberry, herb, vanilla and spice fla- ford). A stunningly beautiful Cabernet, made from vors, backed up with fine acidity. Perfect for salty Diamond Ridge Vineyards NV 2 Jakes the estate vineyard of all five classic Bordeaux varieties. smoked meats. Serve as an appetizer with ham, sausag- 85 Rosé (California). A good deal for a dry rosé Softly tannic and dry, it shows lush flavors of green ol- es, bacon-flavored tapas. —S.H. that’s almost red like a light Pinot Noir. Very low in al- ives, black cherries, anise and smoky oak that swirl into abv: 13.5% Price: $24 cohol at 12.5%, it’s light throughout with layers of peach a long, impressive finish. Drinkable now for sheer beau- and grenadine. Best Buy. —V.B. ty, it will develop over the next decade. —S.H. Jelly Jar 2010 Rosé (Lake County). Light- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.4% Price: $65 88 raspberry in color, this rosé is very pretty, with lilting acidity and pleasing flavors of watermelon and Naggiar 2010 Estate Rosé (Sierra Foot- Vineyard 7&8 2008 Estate Cabernet Sau- strawberry all in an inviting little package. —V.B. 85 hills). Pretty dark, almost plum-like in color, 96 vignon (Spring Mountain). For full review abv: 13.1% Price: $16 this is a blend of 76% Grenache and 25% Syrah from see page 3. an estate-grown vineyard in the Foothills. Lots of wa- Clos du Lac 2010 Chalaye Rosé (El Do- termelon in aroma and flavor, the wine finishes slightly D.R. Stephens 2008 Moose Valley Vine- 87 rado County). Dark salmon in color, this is a sweet, reminiscent of a Shirley Temple. —V.B. 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). nicely balanced, easy-drinking rosé with good flavor and abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Here’s one of the most ageworthy wines of the vintage. light alcohol (13.3%). Best Buy. —V.B. A 100% Cabernet, its grapes come from a vineyard in abv: 13.3% Price: $10 Glen Ellen 2010 White Zinfandel (Califor- eastern St. Helena, off the Silverado Trail. Cab’s usual 82 nia). A little on the sweet, soft side. The flavors blackberries and cassis are there, along with classic ele- Maysie Cellars 2010 Masut Vineyard are of orange tea, honey and cinnamon. —S.H. ments of green olives and herbs, with a funkiness that 87 Sangiovese (Mendocino County). Maysie abv: 10% Price: $10/1.5 L adds an umami tang. Very finely constructed, very com- is a small Berkeley-based producer aiming to shake up plex, spicy and delicious. Give it six years, at least. Cel- the world with its take on single-vineyard Italian vari- Cedar Mountain 2008 Reserve Scarlet lar Selection. —S.H. etals and this rosato from certified-organic Sangiovese 80 Syrah Rosé (Livermore Valley). Really not abv: 14.9% Price: $125 grapes is a great start. It’s refreshing and light and dry sure why 2008 is the current release or why it needs to as a bone. —V.B. be over 15% alcohol but the alcohol is definitely what Maybach 2008 Weitz Vineyard Materium abv: 14% Price: $14 defines this wine. It’s oddly dark in color and equally 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). A power- strange on the nose. —V.B. ful, concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon. Impressive for Prêt a Boire 2010 Rosé (Napa Valley). A abv: 15.3% Price: $17 the sheer density of fruit, namely blackberries, cherries 87 blend of Syrah and Grenache, this may be the and chocolate, accented with buttery, caramelized new most expensive rosé in California. It’s a good wine, dry oak perfectly in keeping with the wine’s volume. The and crisp, although rather full-bodied for a rosé, with tannins are soft, sweet and intricate. Despite the rich- pleasantly complex orange zest, strawberry, vanilla, herb CALIFORNIA REDS ness, There’s a firm minerality that adds to the structure and spice flavors. Nice now with cured meats and sau- and grounds it. So opulently delicious, you could drink sages, or a rich fish stew. —S.H. CABERNETS & BLENDS it now, and it should develop in the bottle over the next abv: 14.3% Price: $75 six years, at least. —S.H. Von Strasser 2008 Reserve (Diamond abv: 14.8% Price: $125 Tablas Creek 2010 Rosé (Paso Robles). 98 Mountain). As good as the winery’s other 2008s 87 Pretty dark for a rosé, and heavy in mouthfeel, are, this wine raises the stakes. It’s bone dry, deeply tan- Moone-Tsai 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon with melted raspberry and strawberry jam flavors, sprin- nic and marked by classic varietal flavors of blackber- 95 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3. kled with cinnamon and vanilla. A blend of Mourvèdre, ries, cassis and dark chocolate, with sweet, smoky oak. Grenache and Counoise, it lacks zestiness, but is so full- Almost a food group in itself for its complexity, it’s daz- D.R. Stephens 2008 Walther River Block bodied, you can substitute it for Pinot Noir with a sum- zling now for its sheer luxurious deliciousness, yet is 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For mer salmon or lamb barbecue. —S.H. guaranteed to develop over at least the next 10 years. full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $125 Harbison Wines 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Pali 2010 Sunset Rosé (California-Ore- 94 gnon (Napa Valley). So deliciously ripe and 86 gon). A sound, useful blush wine, grown from Merryvale 2008 Profile (Napa Valley).For sweet, you can drink it now, especially with a great 75% California Grenache and 25% Oregon Pinot Noir. 97 full review see page 3. steak. Flatters with raspberry, cherry and blackberry fla- It’s totally dry, with a brisk cut of acidity, and pleasant- vors, accented with the vanilla and caramel of new oak, ly clean flavors of strawberries, orange zest and vanilla. Moone-Tsai 2008 Cor Leonis Cabernet and wrapped into soft, ripe tannins. Made in the mod- —S.H. 96 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The question con- ern style, it’s a decadent wine whose pure, refined tan- abv: 13.8% Price: $17 cerning this wine isn’t whether or not it’s very good—it nins testify to their Napa origin. Yet it will develop over is. Instead, it’s about ageability. Made from 100% Cab- the next ten years. —S.H. Pedroncelli 2010 Dry Rosé of Zinfandel ernet grown in two very different places, Pritchard Hill abv: 14.2% Price: $90 86 (Dry Creek Valley). Good price for a dry sum- and Coombsville, it’s dry and refined. Floods the mouth mer blush wine for drinking with barbecue, sandwiches with blackberry, blueberry, cassis, dark chocolate, spice Jarvis 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon or just about anything easy. With berry and spice flavors, and new oak flavors whose richness is tempered by a 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. it has a nice bite of acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. firm minerality. Really fabulous in all respects, but so abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Sequoia Grove 2007 Stagecoach Vine- 94 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 The vineyard is up on Atlas Peak, in the eastern part The vineyard is in the southerly oak Knoll District, and maker Philippe Melka has made the tannins rich, but of Napa Valley, and is source to increasingly great Cab- the wine shows the region’s coolness in a fine, dry struc- approachable, making the blackberry, blueberry and ernets. Hard mountain tannins and incredibly concen- ture of acids and tannins. It’s deeply flavored in black- cherry pie flavors instantly loveable. Sweet in the finish, trated blackberry fruit mark the wine, which is blend- berries, cassis, dark chocolate and herbs. This is a gor- this flashy, Merlot-based wine is best now. —S.H. ed with a little Cabernet Franc that brings softness and geous, rich, sumptuous wine, but it needs time. Hold abv: 14.7% Price: $65 cherries. Stunningly beautiful now, but a wine you want until after 2014, and it could go for far longer. Cellar to try over the next decade to see how it changes. Cel- Selection. —S.H. Nickel & Nickel 2008 Branding Iron Cab- lar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $90 92 ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review abv: 14.4% Price: $90 see page 5. Vineyard 7&8 2008 7 Cabernet Sauvignon Von Strasser 2008 Agira Vineyard Cab- 93 (Spring Mountain). For full review see page 5. Nickel & Nickel 2008 C.C. Ranch Caber- 94 ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). A 92 net Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review near replica of the ’07, which was a fabulous wine that Von Strasser 2008 Sori Bricco Vineyard see page 5. required cellaring. So does this ’08. It’s layered and 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun- complex in deep, black and blue berry and fruit es- tain). Always an intricately built wine, exotic and ripe. Nickel & Nickel 2008 Martin Stelling Vine- sence, especially the ripest blackberries, yet with tanta- Right now, it’s a contradiction. So silky in the mouth, it 92 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For lizing hints of earth, minerals and the green olive note could almost be a Pinot Noir, except it has Cab’s tan- full review see page 5. you often find in the best cool-climate Cabernets. The nins, and the blackberry and cherry fruit has a power- tannins are young and profound. Need time. Give it un- ful intrusion of cassis. Those tannins are notable. They Nickel & Nickel 2008 Quarry Vineyard til after 2014 to begin to come around. Cellar Selec- intrude at every step of the way, suggesting time in the 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full tion. —S.H. cellar. Six years seems barely adequate, ten years more review see page 5. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 likely. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 Nickel & Nickel 2008 Rock Cairn Vine- Von Strasser 2008 Estate Vineyard Cab- 92 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For 94 ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). A Waterstone 2007 Study in Blue (Napa full review see page 5. big, hard, dry Cabernet whose mountain tannins need 93 Valley). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, quite some time to resolve. Right now they’re tough as Syrah and Merlot stands up well against far more ex- PureCoz 2007 Red Wine (Napa Valley). nails, although the blackberry fruit is so brilliant and in- pensive Napa Valley cult Cabs. It’s softly tannic, rich 92 Mitch Cosentino’s new venture, and he scores tense, it punches right through. Give this dramatic wine and decadently delicious in blackberry and cherry pie bigtime. The wine is soft and very satisfying, showing at least six years, and it could well develop beyond the filling, licorice, chocolate, baking spice and sandalwood voluptuous blackberry, cherry, cocoa, bacon and spice next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. flavors. Gorgeous, dry and generous, it’s a wine to drink flavors. The tannins are pure velvet. A beautiful, im- abv: 14.2% Price: $70 now. —S.H. pressive wine, with a little Sangiovese added to the Cab- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ernet-based Bordeaux blend. Drink now. —S.H. Von Strasser 2008 Post Vineyard Cab- abv: NA Price: $65 94 ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). A Boyanci 2007 Red Wine (Napa Valley). gorgeous Cabernet, elaborately rich in blackberry, cher- 92 The blend is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with Von Strasser 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ry, cassis and sweet vanilla oak flavors, yet the finish is Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The 92 (Diamond Mountain). A grand Cabernet, thoroughly dry. Those famous Diamond Mountain tan- grape sourcing is pedigreed, from Stagecoach Vineyard richly tannic and dry, that shows off the Von Strasser nins are firm, but sweetly ripe and elegant. Impressive, on Atlas Peak and the adjacent Pritchard Hill. The wine style. The wine is intense in blackberry, cassis and oak and drinkable now for sheer lusciousness, but should is dry and very tannic, yet strangely sweet. The cherry flavors that grow more interesting in the glass. Those develop over the next eight years. —S.H. and raspberry flavors have a pie-filling richness, but also tannins are hard, but negotiable now for their fine ripe- abv: 14.2% Price: $80 an acidic tug. New oak shows up in the form of vanilla ness. —S.H. and crème brûlée. Hard to tell where it’s going. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 Hestan 2007 Stephanie Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.9% Price: $130 93 gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Benziger 2007 Three Blocks (Sonoma Camiana 2007 Blue Hall Vineyard Cab- 91 County). An interesting wine that you might Jarvis 2007 Lake William (Napa Valley). 92 ernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). An think was a big, rich Pinot Noir if you tasted it blind. 93 For full review see page 4. old-fashioned Howell Mountain Cabernet, bone dry, It’s silky and medium-bodied, with soft tannins and ex- big and hard in tannins and intensely concentrated in otic flavors of cherries, currants, cola, red licorice and Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet fruit. It’s all about blackberries and cassis, oak. The actual wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. with sweet oak. Needs time. Better after 2014. Cellar and Merlot. A bit tough and acidic now, it wants time Selection. —S.H. in the cellar. Try after 2013, for starters. Cellar Selec- Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. abv: 14.5% Price: $59 tion. —S.H. 93 Helena). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 Dominus 2008 Red Wine (Napa Valley). Redmon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Another fine Dominus, dry, well-structured and Fuse 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 93 (Napa Valley). Lots of depth and complexity ageworthy. Lacks the flashiness of the dramatic 2007, 91 Valley). For full review see page 6. in this single-vineyard Cabernet. It’s dramatic for the but is still ripe and rich enough to drink now, and should layers of fruit, veering toward red berries, cherries and develop over the next six years. Rewards for the depth J. Keverson 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon cocoa, and for the intense tannin structure. Feels vital of blackberries, cassis, blueberries and cedar, wrapped 91 (Dry Creek Valley). A fine Cabernet, more el- and important and, above all, ageable. Give it a good six into plush tannins. —S.H. egant than many more rustic Cabs that come out of this years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $149 hot, interior Sonoma County valley. The wine is fully abv: 14.5% Price: $69 dry, but the blackberry fruit is sweetly strong and spicy, Moone-Tsai 2008 Hillside Blend (Howell and the tannins are wonderfully fine. Drink over the Sequoia Grove 2007 Lamoreaux Vine- 92 Mountain). It used to be that Howell Moun- next five years. —S.H. 93 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). tain meant big, hard tannins, but no more. Wine- abv: 14.4% Price: $34

WineMag.com | 55 Tierra Roja 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon spite a gigantic core of dark chocolate, blackberries and Bello Family Vineyards 2008 Cabernet 91 (Oakville). Give this wine time in the bottle. black cherry sour candy. This big, sturdy Cab needs 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A dry, smooth, At the age of four years, it’s still dry and hard in tan- time. Hold until after 2013, for starters. Cellar Selec- velvety wine, rich in blackberry, cherry, spice and oak nins, with a lockdown mouthfeel. Shows a good core of tion. —S.H. flavors. Feels luxurious and refined, with great tannins. blackberries, cherries and cassis, with a rich oak over- abv: 14.4% Price: $90 There’s a certain funkiness, like bacon, you’ll either like lay. The tannins, acids and a firm minerality suggest ex- or won’t. —S.H. tended aging. Hold until 2013, at least. Cellar Selec- Star Lane Vineyard 2006 Astral Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $95 tion. —S.H. 90 Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). The grapes abv: 14.8% Price: $120 come from the winery’s highest elevation vineyard, in Blackbird Vineyards 2008 Arise (Napa the Happy Canyon area, and the variety is Cabernet 88 Valley). This bottling has been variable over Boyanci 2008 InSpire Cabernet Sauvi- Sauvignon, which isn’t revealed on the label, for some the years. The ’08 plays it safe, offering a pleasantly 90 gnon (Napa Valley). A big, sweet, soft Napa reason. The wine is big and tannic, with brooding black- rich, tannic Bordeaux-style blend with blackberry, cher- Cab, made in the modern style. It means to dazzle with berry, currant, smoked meat and oak flavors. Acidity is ry, currant, herb and cedar flavors. —S.H. blackberry and blueberry jam, sweet new oak and choc- quite high. Now-2014. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $50 olate flavors, and does. Too soft for aging, but delicious abv: NA Price: $80 now. —S.H. Concannon 2009 Selected Vineyards abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Hall 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). For 89 Mountain). Good as it is, this Cab is tough and full review see page 11. Hall 2008 Jack’s Masterpiece Cabernet gritty, lacking the usual Hall voluptuousness despite a 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Solidly in the Hall complex core of blackberries, currants, soy and miner- Concannon 2008 Conservancy Cabernet style of voluptuous, stylish Cabernets, rich in fruit and als. Maybe it’s those notoriously hard Diamond Moun- 88 Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). Fruit-for- softly sweet. With a flood of blackberries, cassis and tain tannins. Put it in the cellar for at least six years and ward with big but managed tannins and structure. Con- chocolate, it’s intricately structured with finely ground try again. Cellar Selection. —S.H. cannon has done a nice job here with its Conservancy tannins that give a sting of astringency. Probably best abv: NA Price: $110 Cab, smelling of sweet cranberry relish, almost herb- consumed soon with rich beef dishes. —S.H. al on the nose like a Cab Franc (and its Central Coast abv: NA Price: $90 Hestan 2007 Stephanie (Napa Valley). Cab), and finishing with plenty of vanilla. —V.B. 89 Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Hestan 2006 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet blend is made in a drink-me-now style of decadent lux- 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review ury. It may lack some levels of complexity, but is explo- J. Lohr 2007 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet see page 7. sive in blackberry, cherry, cassis, milk chocolate, anise 88 Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full review see and sweet, smoky oak flavors. —S.H. page 9. Kiamie 2006 Kiame Kuvée (Paso Ro- abv: 14.9% Price: $60 90 bles). A really good red wine that shows how Kiamie 2007 Kiame Kuvée (Paso Ro- well Paso Robles does with these oddball blends. In this Paul Dolan 2009 Made With Organical- 88 bles). Fully resolved for drinking now, this case, it’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Zin- 89 ly Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Verdot and fandel. Each variety contributes something and the re- (Mendocino County). For full review see page 9. Zinfandel is soft and delicious. It shows plenty of ber- sult is fulfilling. With a fine structure, it shows ripe fla- ries, cherries, currants, chocolate, anise, pepper and vors of cherries, raspberries, cocoa, spices and oak, and Robledo 2007 El Rey Cabernet Sauvi- dusty Indian spices, and finishes a little sweet in alco- is ready to drink now. —S.H. 89 gnon (Red Hills Lake County). Another hol. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $38 lovely Cab out of Red Hills Lake County, with nice tart abv: 15% Price: $38 cherry and dusty flavors, this wine is still quite tannic Madrigal 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon with good structure to age. The Sonoma-based Robledo McGrail 2007 A Jo Elet Cabernet Sauvi- 90 (Napa Valley). At about three years of age, family is making more and more wine from Red Hills, 88 gnon (Livermore Valley). A nice, firm and this Cab is very dry and very tannic. Yet it feels bal- this one a tribute to patriarch Reynaldo "El Rey" Ro- good Livermore Cabernet with structured tannins and anced and elegant, and the flavors are complex, offering bledo. —V.B. good bones, length and a roundedness that works. Black waves of blackberries, cassis, spicy mushu plum sauce abv: 14.8% Price: $38 currant and nutmeg flavors prevail. The wine spent a and smoky cedar. Those tannins need big, rich meats for while in all new Hungarian oak. McGrail is also a vine- balance. Drink over the next 5 years. —S.H. Turnbull 2008 Black Label Cabernet Sau- yard source to look for on other Livermore producer’s abv: 14.6% Price: $32 89 vignon (Oakville). Big and awkward now, bottles. —V.B. with explosive blackberry and currant flavors. Feels all abv: 14.8% Price: $40 Nickel & Nickel 2008 Kelham Vineyard jumbly, with the oak sticking out, and dry tannins that 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full scour across the palate and finish astringently numb. Peters Family 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon review see page 8. Old fashioned in its way, but could blossom after seven 88 (Sonoma Mountain). Very ripe and flattering, or eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. with blackberry and cherry jam fruit that finishes with Selene 2008 Dead Fred Vineyard Cab- abv: 14.9% Price: $100 that curious combination of dry and sweet. The tannins 90 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is an of this mountain, located in central Sonoma County, are ultrarich, ripe Cabernet, marked by jammy blackberry, Von Strasser 2008 Spaulding Vineyard tough. Should hold over the years, without developing blueberry and cherry fruit flavors, with a milk chocolate 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun- complexity. —S.H. sweetness and soft, intricate tannins. Made in the soft, tain). This has been one of Von Strasser’s easier, more abv: 14.2% Price: $55 modern style, it’s best over the next six years. —S.H. accessible Cabs, despite its origins on Diamond Moun- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 tain, which usually produces notoriously hard tannins. Schug 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- The ’08, like the ’07, is soft and sweet in blackberry 88 noma Valley). Lots to like in this dry, softly Sequoia Grove 2007 Morisoli Vineyard and toasted oak flavors. Drink it over the next six years. tannic young Cabernet, especially the fruit. Brims with 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots —S.H. ripe cherry, blackberry and plum flavors, with a smoky, of tannins in this wine, which comes from this fine vine- abv: 14.2% Price: $80 sweet coating of oak. It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. yard in Rutherford. Feels tough and resistant now, de- abv: 14.5% Price: $28

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Smith-Madrone 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- Damian Rae 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2007 Quintes- 88 gnon (Spring Mountain). A tough wine to 87 (Napa Valley). A good, rich, fairly standard 87 sential Meritage (North Coast). This blend like right now. It’s tightly wound and hard in tannins Napa Cabernet, brimming with ripe blackberry, cher- of all five Bordeaux varieties has cranberry, plum, sage and bone dry, which is the winery’s house style. These ry and raspberry flavors, enhanced with sweet, vanil- and herb throughout and is good, with a medium-body are grapes that were picked early, before they shriveled. la-scented smoky oak. Pretty good stuff, but it’s not an and tart finish. Aged almost two years in nearly all new The flavors veer between blackberries and currants to ager. —S.H. French oak it’s fairly light on its feet. Much of the blend anise and pepper. The gamble is in the cellar. Try after abv: 14.7% Price: $59 (27%) is Alexander Valley Cabernet, the Merlot is from 2013. —S.H. Sonoma Valley and the Cab Franc from Dry Creek. abv: 14.2% Price: $45 Lava Cap 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- The Malbec and Petit Verdot, earthy and leathery both, 87 gnon (El Dorado). Closed at first, this El Do- come from Clear Lake. —V.B. Sodaro 2007 Felicity Cabernet Sauvi- rado Cab slowly reveals minty and savory aromas, the abv: 13.9% Price: $48 88 gnon (Napa Valley). A bit too soft, but dry, wine’s flavors also more on the austere and savory side rich and dramatic in its own way, with layers of black- of things, a touch of blackberry and cherry finally com- Valley of the Moon 2008 Cuvée de la Luna berries, currants and oak. If the winemaker will build ing through. —V.B. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). in a firmer structure, this Cabernet’s score will soar in abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Mainly Cabernet, with some Merlot and Malbec added future vintages. —S.H. for depth and complexity, this rich, dry wine has jam- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Line 39 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (North my blackberry, dark chocolate and oak flavors. It’s com- 87 Coast).For full review see page 10. promised by sharp acidity that rattles the palate. Drink Wellington 2006 Handal-Denier Vineyard soon. —S.H. 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). Nelson Family Vineyards 2007 Top Row abv: 14.5% Price: $30 This is a good, rich, 100% Cabernet for drinking now 87 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoci- with fancy meats. It’s dry and smooth in tannins, with no). Estate-grown, this Cab from the best rows within Wellington 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry, cherry, cassis, Dr. Pepper cola, herb and ce- the family’s Clara Vineyard, is brick red and aromatically 87 (Sonoma County). A good buy in a Caber- dar flavors that finish a little sweet. —S.H. brickish as well, as well as smelling of black olive, cherry net that’s dry and elegant enough to pair with a great abv: 14.4% Price: $30 and cola spice, a coating of chocolate on its finish. Let steak, chop or roast. It has classic blackberry, black cur- it breathe. —V.B. rant, herb and cedar flavors, and is soft enough to drink Wellington 2006 Victory Reserve (So- abv: 14.9% Price: $42 now. —S.H. 88 noma County). Already throwing some sedi- abv: 14% Price: $20 ment, which is perfectly okay so don’t be alarmed. The Newton 2008 Unfiltered Cabernet Sau- flavors are rich and varied, of blackberries, black cur- 87 vignon (Napa Valley). A soft, fleshy wine Whitehall Lane 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- rants, cola, orange zest, cedar and exotic spices, and the to drink now. It has a fancy mouthfeel, with a firm hit 87 gnon (Napa Valley). Drink this ripely sweet finish is nice and dry. Could be a bit firmer in texture, of tannins and acidity, and lush flavors of blackberries, Cabernet now. It’s very rich in blackberry, red currant, though. Best now. —S.H. cherries, cola and spices. —S.H. cocoa and caramelized oak flavors, wrapped into firm, abv: 14.1% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 fine tannins. Will do just fine with a nice steak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Whitehall Lane 2008 Reserve Cabernet Niner 2007 Fog Catcher (Paso Robles). A 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The tannins on 87 Bordeaux-style blend based on Cabernet Sauvi- Windsor Sonoma 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- this Cabernet, which contains 5% Merlot, are tough and gnon and Cabernet Franc, this wine is soft and sweet- 87 gnon (Alexander Valley). A big, voluptuous gritty. The blackberry, currant and smoky oak flavors are ly luxurious. It offers upfront blackberry, black cherry, Cabernet, brimming with ripe blackberries, plums, mo- just fine. The question with such an awkward texture in red currant, licorice and sandalwood flavors, with a nice cha, cedar, and a chewy, tangy meaty taste, like beef youth is if the wine will resolve with age. In this case, edge of tannins. Drink now. —S.H. jerky. Solid, soft and easy to drink. —S.H. probably not, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $58 abv: 14.9% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Oakville Ranch 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Ahlgren 2007 Bates Ranch Cabernet Bello Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet 87 gnon (Napa Valley). Made from the estate 86 Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). Lots 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe and sweet in ranch in the eastern hills of Oakville, this is a soft, plush, of berry, cherry and currant fruit in this dry Cabernet, cherry, chocolate and oak flavors, this Cabernet scores sweetly ripe Cabernet. It has jammy, dessert pastry fla- which is drinking nice and mellow. It could be more high in sheer deliciousness. It’s a bit simple in structure, vors of blackberries, cherries and raspberries, along concentrated, as it falls off in the finish, turning bitter. though, and unlikely to age, so drink up. —S.H. with plenty of smoky new oak, and very high alcohol —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95 gives it a glyceriney sweetness. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 15.6% Price: $68 Bello Family Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Clos La Chance 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). At nearly five Schug 2007 Heritage Reserve Caber- 86 gnon (Central Coast). Lots of ripe black- years of age, this wine is mellowing nicely. It’s smooth 87 net Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Here’s a berry and cherry fruit flavors in this dry wine, with the and dry and easy to like for the wealth of berry, cherry, soft, sweet Cabernet, rich in blackberries, cherries, cas- nervy acidity of the Central Coast and Cabernet’s hefty mocha and oak flavors. Should hang in there for another sis and chocolate, with a spicy finish. It shows plenty of tannins. It’s a solid, rustic wine to drink now. —S.H. few years. —S.H. ripe varietal character, and is ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 15.5% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Cobblestone 2006 Reserve Cabernet Cartlidge & Browne 2009 Cabernet Sau- Sodaro 2007 Estate Blend (Napa Valley). 86 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This soft, sweet, 87 vignon (North Coast). Another great buy 87 Soft and sweet, with melted jam flavors of rasp- oaky Cabernet will appeal to those who like the New from C&B, who this time have made a subtle, con- berry, cherry and blackberry flavors, and plenty of cara- World style. It’s as puffy as a dessert concoction, with centrated and rich Cabernet with good blackberry and melized, vanilla-scented oak. Delicious, but lacks struc- cherry, chocolate, nougat and cinnamon spice flavors, woody, oaky flavors and a big mouthfeel. Steak, anyone? tural integrity. The blend is based on Cabernet Sauvi- and is ready to drink now. —S.H. Best Buy. —V.B. gnon. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $69 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $65

WineMag.com | 57 Edge 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa on this dry, fruity Cabernet tastes strong and unnatural. minty, cedar nose and flavors of blackberry and choco- 86 Valley). A bit on the soft, overripe side, with It sticks out like a sore thumb, making the blackberry late that eventually come through. —V.B. currant, licorice, cherry, cocoa and oak flavors. But it’s pie flavors overly tart. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $24 dry, and the tannins are fancy. Drink it fresh out of the abv: 14.8% Price: $18 bottle with a grilled steak. —S.H. Jeff Gordon 2007 Ella Sofia Cabernet abv: 14.4% Price: $20 Cache Creek Vineyards 2007 Caber- 84 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Overoaked, with 85 net Sauvignon (Lake County). This Cab is sweet, caramelized wood and vanilla flavors dominat- Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend minty and leathery, with overwhelming vanilla-y tannins ing an otherwise soft, ripe wine. The blackberries and 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma-Napa- at first—maybe from the time spent in all new Amer- cherries have a sugary finish, making the wine tiresome. Lake). Sweet and jammy in extracted blackberry and ican oak—that mellow with opening, giving it a soft —S.H. cherry fruit, with big tannins and a sting of acidity. Fair- mouthfeel. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 ly rustic for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.2% Price: $23 Jeff Gordon 2007 Ella Sofia Joie de Vivre Chateau Chevalier 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- 84 (Napa Valley). A Bordeaux blend with some Lobo 2008 Wulff Vineyards Cabernet 85 gnon (Spring Mountain). This is a Cabernet Sonoma Cabernet added, this wine is soft and overtly 86 Sauvignon (Oak Knoll). A flashy, soft Cab- to drink now for its soft, enjoyable flavors of blackberry sweet. It tastes like a chocolate, cherry, blackberry and ernet for drinking now. It’s a little on the sweet side, and cherry pie. It tastes sweet but finishes nicely dry, roasted almond granola candy, melted into wine. —S.H. with raspberry and cherry tart, brown sugar, chocolate with a scour of tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $61 and cinnamon spice flavors. Not an ager, so drink now. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 —S.H. Pietra Santa 2007 Estate Grown Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Earthquake 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 84 net Sauvignon (Cienega Valley). Soft and 85 (Lodi). There are people out there who will hot, with some raisin flavors alongside the blackberries Morro Bay 2008 Split Oak Estates Caber- love this big, blustery Cab, with its powerful fruit and and mulberries. The finish is dry and astringent in tan- 86 net Sauvignon (California). A fine, soft-tan- oak, its bacon fat reminiscent of other high-octane reds nins. Not likely to age, so drink up. —S.H. nined Cab made from Lodi Rules grapes missing some under the Earthquake label. And there are those who abv: 14.5% Price: $18 body in the midpalate, but otherwise fair for the $12 will not like this wine at all, the alcohol all that will regis- price. —V.B. ter and remain. This wine does not tread lightly. —V.B. Robert Mondavi 2009 Meritage (Califor- abv: 13.9% Price: $12 abv: 15% Price: $26 84 nia). A simple wine, but the price is right, and it will do well at a big party. Shows sweetly ripe black- Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2008 Clone Kendall-Jackson 2008 Vintner’s Reserve berry and cherry fruit, with a nice, full-bodied mouth- 86 337 Mazzocco-Bevill Cabernet Sauvi- 85 Summation (California). This blend of Cab- feel. —S.H. gnon (Alexander Valley). This is a soft, sweet, al- ernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel offers lots to like abv: 13.5% Price: $11 most Porty wine, with raisin, chocolate and blackberry at the price. It’s soft, rich and finely tannic, with savory flavors. It has a long, spicy finish, and is best now with berry and spice flavors that straddle the border between Dewitt 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- lusty stews and barbecue. —S.H. dry and sweet. —S.H. 83 fornia). One-dimensional and silky, with can- abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 died cherry and raspberry flavors that finish a little sweet. —S.H. Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2007 Clone Starmont 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.4% Price: $18 86 337 Bevill-Mazzocco Vineyard Caber- 85 (Napa Valley). Give this wine more structure, net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Soft and rather and the score would soar. It’s dry and smooth, with clas- Cupcake 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon one-dimensional, this Cabernet shows ripe cherry, rasp- sic blackberry, black currant and cedar flavors that finish 82 (Central Coast). Not much going on in this berry, blackberry and oak flavors. It’s bone dry, showing long and spicy. But it’s so soft, it feels like it melted in dry wine. It’s thin in fruit, making the acidity stick out herbal, astringent tannins. Could develop bottle inter- the mouth. Ready now. —S.H. with a sharp cut. —S.H. esting over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $50 Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2008 Winemak- Tolosa 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Tortoise Creek 2008 Cherokee Lane Cab- 85 er’s Reserve Meritage (Sonoma County). 81 Robles). Hard in tannins, with acidity so high 86 ernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Name checking Rich and forward in blackberry, cherry and currant fla- it’s sour, this Cabernet also tastes excessively sweet, an old stretch of Lodi highway, this Cab has more red vors, with an overripe note that veers into raisins, this making it really hard to like. —S.H. cherry fruit than black as well as a noticeable trace of Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend is dry and tannic. It’s abv: 13.9% Price: $19 cedar, lacking in structure and acidity perhaps but de- ready to drink now. —S.H. cent enough—and very fairly priced—to pop open with abv: 13.9% Price: $48 Sharabella Wines 2008 Padre Amante a midweek steak. The grapes used are Lodi Rules certi- 80 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Not fied green sustainable. Best Buy. —V.B. Calcareous 2008 Twisted Sisters Matri- sure what’s going on here but both bottles of this Cab abv: 13.8% Price: $11 84 arch (Paso Robles). Acidic and brittle, with smelled of diesel gasoline, burnt rubber and corn nuts. an unnatural tartness to the sweet, jammy cherry, black- —V.B. Beaver Creek 2009 Horne Ranch Cab- berry, cola and oak flavors. This Bordeaux-style blend is abv: 13.25% Price: $15 85 ernet Sauvignon (Lake County). A soft, best opened now. —S.H. round Cabernet that’s got leather, cedar and sage going abv: 14.4% Price: $20 on as well as heavy tannins and oak. Made from 100% CHARBONO organic grapes grown in Lake County, the wine reveals Jaxon Keys 2007 Peterson Vineyard Cab- itself best after a bit of air. —V.B. 84 ernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County). Coturri Winery 2007 Testa Vineyards abv: 14.1% Price: $29 The Ukiah Valley gets hot, no doubt, but 15.8% alcohol 87 Charbono (Mendocino County). Sonoma on a Mendocino Cabernet is still hard to take. This wine County’s Coturri, an early advocate of organic farming Bianchi 2008 Signature Selection Caber- is very tightly wound, a little hot, a little flabby with a and old-fashioned winemaking, has made a tiny amount 85 net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). The acidity of Charbono, a hybrid of Nebbiolo and Grenache.

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Grown at Testa in Mendocino, a great source of many Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend opens into a fine Merlot that would go well with rich heritage varieties, including Zinfandel and Carignane, 89 Merlot (Sonoma-Napa). For full review see red meat. —V.B. this Charbono is grapey and rustic with a fair amount of page 9. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 acidity throughout. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Selene 2009 Frediani Vineyard Merlot Jeff Gordon 2005 Merlot (Napa Valley). 89 (Napa Valley). A beautiful Merlot, rich and 85 Even nearing six years of age, this Merlot re- Fortino 2007 Charbono (Santa Clara Val- evocative. It has soft tannins and delicious flavors of red mains tannic, although the cherry and blackberry fruit 85 ley). A grippy, ink-staining, concentrated Char- cherry jam, red currants and chocolate, accented with is starting to dry out. There’s a curious sweetness at its bono from the Santa Clara Valley, made from 90% es- smoky oak. The tannins are so fine. Drink now. —S.H. core. Not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. tate-grown Charbono (the vineyard is in San Martin) abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $49 and 10% Syrah. Two years spent in French oak might explain its minty, cedar highlights, rounded out by black Clos La Chance 2008 Merlot (Central Pomar Junction 2007 Merlot (Paso Ro- cherry and plum. —V.B. 88 Coast). This wine sneaked into a tasting of 85 bles). This is a soft, hot Merlot. It has ripe fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $34 far more expensive Napa Valley wines and did well. It’s vors of cherries, red currants, red licorice, cocoa and softly tannic and dry, yet so rich in blackberry, cherry pepper, and finishes dry. —S.H. Three Rights Left 2008 Charbono (Su- and chocolate fruit, it’s almost sweet. An enjoyable red abv: 14.5% Price: $28 85 isun Valley). Rustic with softened tannins, this wine to drink now, at a very nice price. —S.H. Charbono, a rare sight in California where fewer than abv: 13.5% Price: $18 HammerSky 2008 Red Handed Merlot 100 acres are planted, is inky and mellow, its acidity a 84 (Paso Robles). Soft and sweet, with a liqueur good match for a range of goopy, Italian-inspired foods. Concannon 2008 Conservancy Merlot taste of raisins and crême de cassis. Dry, but hot. The —V.B. 87 (Livermore Valley). A round and juicy Merlot official alcohol reading of 14.5% by volume tastes suspi- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 with very ripe fruit flavors of plum and blueberry and ciously low. —S.H. enough texture to be paired with an array of meals. Very abv: 14.5% Price: $44 pleasant all around and priced fair and square. —V.B. GRENACHE abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Line 39 2009 Merlot (North Coast). This 84 wine’s dark cherry aromas veer into lipstick ter- Zaca Mesa 2008 Grenache (Santa Ynez Madrigal 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley). A de- ritory a bit and then the North Coast-sourced Merlot 89 Valley). Grenache is one of the hardest variet- 87 liciously soft, easy-drinking Merlot for enjoying becomes overly tannic and a tiny bit green. Decent for ies to get right, and Zaca Mesa has had brilliant success- tonight with a nice steak or burger. It’s basically dry, but the $10 price tag but not going to convert anyone into es as well as not so great. This ’08 is somewhere in the ultrarich and sweet in raspberry, cherry, cocoa and bak- Merlot (this one’s got 22% Cabernet Sauvignon blended middle. It’s beautifully ripe in cherry fruit, with a pretty ing spice flavors. —S.H. in as well). —V.B. veneer of smoky oak, and feels vital and layered in the abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $10 mouth. With the weight of Pinot Noir, it should develop interestingly over the next five years. —S.H. Merryvale 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley). A Wellington 2007 Merlot (Sonoma Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $32 87 very good, impressive Merlot, if a little irregu- 84 This is a soft, rather one-dimensional Merlot. lar in tannic structure. It’s dry and rich in black cher- It’s certainly flavorful in cherries, red currants, cola and Holly’s Hill 2009 Estate Grenache (El Do- ries, red licorice and bacon, with a solid coating of oak. cedar, but There’s not a whole lot going on. —S.H. 88 rado). This Sierra Foothills Grenache Noir, Elegant enough, but not going anywhere, so drink up. abv: 14% Price: $20 as it’s labeled, has an intense, grapey nose, its taste —S.H. silky, smooth and juicy with decent length and texture, abv: 14.9% Price: $48 Cupcake 2009 Merlot (Central Coast). though the wine could use more layers. Estate-grown, 82 A thin, harsh Merlot, lacking generosity, with this is an interesting producer of Rhône varieties in El Schug 2008 Merlot (Sonoma Valley). modest berry and oak flavors. —S.H. Dorado, this wine blended with 8% Mourvedre and 1% 87 Made in a light, pleasant style, and the drily tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Petite Sirah. —V.B. nic balance makes it food-friendly. Shows cherry, red abv: 14.8% Price: $20 currant, cola and oak flavors, with an earthy edge of Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve herbs. —S.H. 82 Merlot (California). Dry and vegetal, with an Tolosa 2009 Autumn Blend Grenache abv: 14.5% Price: $28 asparagus taste alongside the cherries and blackberries. 84 (San Luis Obispo County). Bitterly dry and At this price, not bad if you’re not fussy. —S.H. high in acidity, this Grenache lacks the richness needed Schug 2007 Heritage Reserve Merlot abv: 13% Price: $10/1.5 L to satisfy. Its cherry, cola and oak flavors are thin, all on 87 (Carneros). An earthy style of Merlot, with the surface, giving it a fast, rustic feel. —S.H. herb, tobacco and mint flavors bracketing the cherries Concannon 2008 Selected Vineyards abv: 14.2% Price: $19 and cola. It’s a dry, brisk wine, with firm tannins to drink 80 Merlot (Central Coast). These vineyards now. —S.H. seem to have been selected for unripe, vegetal grapes. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Just manages to scrape by with a veneer of cherries. MERLOT —S.H. Triple B Ranches 2008 Estate Bottled abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Whitehall Lane 2008 Merlot (Napa Val- 87 Merlot (South Coast). From a new South 90 ley). Does just what Merlot is supposed to, Coast producer is this cherry-fragranced Merlot with deliver a ripe, seductive red wine in a velvety texture. nice texture and balance, juicy red fruit and cinnamon PETITE SIRAH Feels so soft and drink-me-now in the mouth, with spice in the background. —V.B. waves of blackberries, cherries, red currants, licorice abv: 13.2% Price: $28 Bianchi 2008 Signature Selection Plum- and mocha. —S.H. 87 mer Vineyard Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). abv: NA Price: $28 Cartlidge & Browne 2007 Merlot (North Dark chocolate, mashed blackberries, black licorice and 86 Coast). A simple Merlot that’s priced fairly black currants so ripe they’re raisined are the flavors of and is a little tannic at first, the fruit acting shy, but that

WineMag.com | 59 this dry wine. It’s very tannic, in the way of Petite Sirah, De Loach 2009 Stubbs Vineyard Pinot vigorous young Pinot Noir. It’s completely dry and com- and rather soft. Drink now. —S.H. 92 Noir (Marin County). A fine Marin Pinot plex, with a tantalizing balance of ripe cherry, cola and abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Noir, showing the dryness, zesty acidity and rich, deep pomegranate fruit and earthier notes of mushrooms, red fruit that mark this cool, coastal county. Bigtime in herbs and minerals. Plenty of acidity, too, which gives it Madrigal 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa Val- raspberries, strawberries and cherries, it’s complexed a pleasant scour. Drink now. —S.H. 86 ley). Treads the line between dry and sweet, with subtle minerals, mushrooms and Indian spices. So abv: NA Price: $48 with sugary, pie-filled raspberry, cherry and chocolate elegant, with 13.5% alcohol, you can give it a chill in the flavors, wrapped into Petite Sirah’s big tannins. Drink fridge. —S.H. Joseph Jewell 2008 Elk Prairie Vineyard this lusty wine with roasted meats, especially sausages. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 90 Pinot Noir (Humboldt County). For full re- —S.H. view see page 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Phillips Hill 2009 Hinterlands Pinot Noir 92 (Mendocino). If you’re looking for flavor, and La Rochelle 2008 Sarmento Vineyard Pi- Michael David 2009 Petite Petit (Lodi). Al- who isn’t, this fruity Pinot Noir hits the spot. It’s pale 90 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Com- 85 most black in color, this is a blend of 85% Petite in color and light in the mouth, but rich in raspberries, bines tight tannins and acids with concentrated raspber- Sirah, 15% Petit Verdot with a pronounced smell and cherries, pomegranates and cola, with sweet, smoky oak ry, cherry, Dr. Pepper cola and oak flavors to produce taste of smoked bacon, even smoked gouda, a huge-in- influences. Should develop in the bottle over the next a vigorous, young, savory Pinot Noir. Feels silky in the the-mouth wine that’s got nothing petite (or petit) about six years. —S.H. mouth, yet potent in fruity concentration. There’s some it. Its lingering tannic smokiness begs for barbecue, abv: 14% Price: $38 burn in the finish, but a good steak will take care of that. smoked trout or such. The label is awesome. —V.B. Give it a year or two to mellow. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Testarossa 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard abv: 15.3% Price: $48 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Another Rock Wall 2009 Carver Sutro Palisades gloriously ripe, delicious Pinot Noir from this celebrat- Merryvale 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 85 Vineyard Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). Hot, ed vineyard. The wine is extraordinarily rich in rasp- 90 For full review see page 7. spicy and sweet in blackberries, cherries and raspber- berry and cherry pie, crême brûleé and cinnamon spice ries, like a fruit reduction sauce. The tannins are tough. flavors, wrapped into silky tannins and brightened with Phillips Hill 2009 Wiley Vineyard Pinot Cries out for barbecue. —S.H. zesty acidity. Best over the next three years for fresh- 90 Noir (Anderson Valley). Made in a light- abv: 14.7% Price: $40 ness. —S.H. bodied style, with a see-through color containing glints abv: 14.8% Price: $56 of orange and ruby. Feels light and silky in the mouth, Glen Ellen 2009 Petite Sirah (California). but don’t underestimate the complexity. This wine 82 Sweet, soft and jammy, with raspberry, bacon Lost Canyon 2009 Morelli Lane Vineyard packs a punch in raspberry, cherry, Dr. Pepper cola, or- and bubblegum flavors. —S.H. 91 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full ange zest, tobacco, spice and sandalwood flavors. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $10/1.5 L review see page 6. now–2015. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 Lost Canyon 2009 Saralee’s Vineyard PINOT NOIR 91 |Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full Amici 2007 Pinot Noir (Mendocino). A review see page 6. 89 very clearly well-made wine—the longtime for- Testarossa 2009 Niclaire Pinot Noir (Cali- mer Beaulieu winemaker Joel Aiken’s name is listed as 94 fornia). Absolutely delicious. Although it’s a bit Phillips Hill 2009 Valenti Vineyard Pinot winemaker—the Pinot is sourced from high-elevation full bodied and heavy for a Pinot Noir, it’s stunningly 91 Noir (Mendocino Ridge). A young, oaky, vineyards above the town of Mendocino and fermented good, offering wave after wave of berry, cherry, orange flashy Pinot Noir, grown on these mountain ridges high in small lots. Beautifully textured, aromas open slowly, peel, spice and oak flavors, with interesting side notes of above the Anderson Valley. The wine is dry and silky, dominated by rose petal and violets and a touch of cola mushrooms, cola, cocoa and licorice. The California ap- with a light bodiedness that belies its complexity. Shows spice, developing further into dark cherry and earthy pellation is because the wine is a best barrel blend from concentrated raspberry, cherry, red currant, cola, red tones. Rich and layered, it’s a great value for lovers of Testarossa’s vineyards up and down the state. Drink licorice and spice flavors that linger into the finish. Ele- bigger-style Pinot and will age another few years for now–2015. —S.H. gant, it will provide fine drinking over the next six years. sure. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $75 —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $40 Testarossa 2009 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot De Loach 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- 93 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A first-rate Chandon 2008 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 89 er Valley). With a thick coating of caramelized Pinot Noir, dry and firm in structure. There’s a solid 90 Lots of rich cherry, black raspberry and cola oak and masses of ripe, jammy fruit, this Pinot tastes minerality girding the ripe cherry, red currant and cola fruit in this Pinot, which is dry and silky and actually sweet. But it’s complex in its own way, with a pleasant fruit, while sweet oak provides an ample, but balanced, has a fairly fierce and welcome edge of tannins. It’s a big scour of acidity. Drink now with mushroom risotto, coating of vanilla and toast. Luscious now right out of wine, but with elegance. Screams out for steak. —S.H. lamb chops or, for the best of all worlds, both. —S.H. the bottle, and should age for a good eight years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.4% Price: $65 De Loach 2009 Pinot Noir (Marin Coun- Roessler 2009 La Brisa Pinot Noir (So- Testarossa 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Pi- 90 ty). Displays the winery’s house style of flashy, 89 noma Coast). Just when you think this wine 93 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lovely delicious fruit and early drinkability. Shows the brisk is nothing but upfront red berry fruit and oak, more in- and delicious, a Pinot Noir that flatters the palate with acidity of this cool coastal county, with a light, silky tex- teresting pine, earth and spice flavors kick in. Then the the richest, sweetest fruit, yet always maintains balance ture and penetrating flavors of raspberries, cherries, tannins and acids strike, giving a fine, dry structure. Best and elegance. Tiers of raspberry and cherry jam fruit persimmons and the sweet, smoky oak of French bar- to drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. wash through the mouth, with powerful but tastefully rels. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $32 appointed oak influences, leading to a dry, spicy finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 The tannins are a wonder, ripe, firm, and hard and soft Blue Nomad 2009 Swami Pinot Noir (So- at the same time. Now–2015. —S.H. Dierberg 2008 Drum Canyon Vineyard Pi- 88 noma Coast). Lots of jammy cherry and rasp- abv: 14.5% Price: $59 90 not Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Lots to like in this berry fruit here, with a good cut of acidity for refresh-

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 ing balance. Feels silky and generous in the mouth. A the buttered toast influence of oak barrels. It’s a gently Glen Ellen 2010 Proprietor‘s Reserve pleasant, spicy, light-bodied Pinot Noir for drinking appealing Pinot Noir to drink now. —S.H. 83 Pinot Noir (California). For full review see now. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $28 page 15. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Segue 2009 Singiani Vineyard Pinot Noir Talbott 2009 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pi- De Loach 2009 Heritage Reserve Pinot 87 (Russian River Valley). This Pinot will di- 83 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A streak 88 Noir (California). A really nice wine, show- vide people into opposite camps. Some will find it soft, of unripe green mint mars this wine. It’s almost vegetal, ing the generosity and sheer sexiness that Pinot Noir sweet, heavy and simple. Others will love the luscious stealing the thunder from the cherry and oak flavors. can offer. With a silky mouthfeel, it has expansive flavors red currant, licorice, raspberry and bacon flavors, with The tannins and acidity are beautiful, but that asparagus of raspberry and cherry jam, orange zest, vanilla, cin- their spicy finish. Drink now. —S.H. note is disturbing. —S.H. namon and sandalwood. One of the best Pinots on the abv: 14.3% Price: $30 abv: 14.6% Price: $40 market at this price, and easy to find, with 20,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. La Rochelle 2007 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Bianchi 2008 Heritage Selection Zen abv: 13.5% Price: $15 86 Mountains). Held back for four years, this 82 Ranch Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). This high Pinot still is a little gritty, with some sharp edges. The alcohol Zinfandel has a burn, and the flavors are un- La Rochelle 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma cherry, cola, oak and bacon flavors have a barnyardy evenly ripened, with some green, vegetal notes. —S.H. 88 Coast). Marked by very ripe raspberry, cher- funkiness. Ready now. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $17 ry and strawberry flavors, this Pinot also shows a lot of abv: 14.9% Price: $38 smoky oak influences. It’s dry, with good tannins and Talbott 2009 Kali Hart Pinot Noir (Mon- acidity. Not going anywhere, so drink over the next Toad Hollow 2009 Goldie’s Vineyard Pi- 82 terey). Acidic and unripe, with sweet and three years. —S.H. 86 not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re- sour cherry, asparagus and spice flavors, accented with abv: 14.8% Price: $42 view see page 9. smoky oak. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $21 Robledo 2008 Rancho Rincon Pinot Noir La Rochelle 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian 88 (Los Carneros). Huge in flavor, with massive 85 River Valley). A little unripe, with some green, Waterstone 2008 Pinot Noir (Carneros). flavors of sweet, ripe raspberries and cherries. Oak bar- vegetal flavors. But it’s dry, and shows enough cherry 82 A tough, brittle Pinot Noir, dry and thin in rel aging is evident, giving even richer layers of vanil- and oak richness to satisfy. The mouthfeel is nice and fruit, whose considerable acids and tannins dominate. la and caramel. Delicious and spicy, if a little obvious. silky. —S.H. A touch of overripe raisins shows up in the bitter fin- Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 ish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Roessler 2009 Red Label Pinot Noir (So- Roessler 2009 Bluejay Pinot Noir (Ander- 85 noma County). Here’s a soft, rather one-di- Pomar Junction 2009 Pinot Noir (Paso 88 son Valley). A little soft, but a good, dry and mensional Pinot Noir for drinking now. Nothing terribly 81 Robles). Syrupy sweet and soft, with candied complex young Pinot Noir to drink now. Shows interest- complicated going on, just a good, sound dry wine with flavors that seriously lack structure. —S.H. ing flavors of tart cherries, with plenty of savory spices pleasant berry, spice and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $34 and a rich hit of oak. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 14.3% Price: $32 Pietra Santa 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Concannon 2009 Selected Vineyards, 80 Noir (Cienega Valley). A soft, gluey Pinot Schug 2008 Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir 84 Central Coast Pinot Noir (Livermore Val- Noir, with almost no structure and bizarre cherry candy 88 (Carneros). Made in a lighter style, this is a ley). An inexpensive, large-production Pinot that’s and medicinal flavors. —S.H. pleasant Pinot Noir whose elegance make it an appro- overly earthy and a little thin on the finish with a smid- abv: 14.3% Price: $18 priate partner now with good food. It’s dry and silky, gen of residual sugar thrown in too, but reasonably with cherry, raspberry, anise and cinnamon flavors, and priced and decently quaffable with food. —V.B. feels just fine in the mouth. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 SANGIOVESE abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Prospero 2009 Pinot Noir (Chalk Hill). A Noceto 2008 Hillside Sangiovese Artesa 2008 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 84 gritty Pinot, with jammy raspberry and cherry 92 (Shenandoah Valley of California). No- 87 (Carneros). Nice and silky in the mouth, with flavors, and an awkward overlay of sweet, caramelized ceto has made an incredibly nuanced and deep, dark a rich overlay of toasty oak and savory spice, raspberry, oak. —S.H. Sangiovese here, still tight and tannic, definitely one to cherry and strawberry flavors. Fine acidity adds clean abv: 14.3% Price: $29 age, with beautiful structure, tamed oak and subtle yet brightness. A touch of underripeness detracts, so drink strong dark fruit. Cellar Selection. —V.B. now. —S.H. Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2009 Wine- abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 14.3% Price: $40 84 maker’s Reserve Zora’s Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Acids and tan- Noceto 2007 Riserva Sangiovese Cartlidge & Browne 2009 Pinot Noir nins dominate, at the expense of fruit, giving this Pinot 91 (Shenandoah Valley of California). Sangio- 87 (North Coast). A mild, medium-bodied North Noir a hard, rustic feel. The cherry flavors aren’t strong vese lovers will love this wine, so superbly made by No- Coast Pinot Noir with a pleasant aroma of cherry and enough to bust through the dryness. —S.H. ceto, whose focus on this oft-maligned variety has prov- plum, the cherry carries throughout the wine’s texture abv: 14% Price: $44 en that persistence can pay off. The wine has brightness and overall follow-through. A tad simple, this wine is and depth, notes of red plum, cranberry and spice, solid nonetheless a tremendously great deal for California Pi- Brophy Clark 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Bar- structure all around and length for days. It just gets bet- not. —V.B. 83 bara County). Feels acidic and thin in the ter and better in the glass and at $24 is a fair price for a abv: 13.5% Price: $15 mouth, with raspberry fruit and wintergreen mint fla- food-friendly wine with depth. —V.B. vors. On the plus side, it’s dry and silky. An okay Pinot abv: 14.3% Price: $24 Philo Ridge 2007 Unfiltered Pinot Noir for this price. —S.H. 87 (Anderson Valley). Lots of sweet raspberry, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Amador Foothill Winery 2007 Estate Bot- strawberry and cherry fruit in this silky wine, along with 88 tled Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley of

WineMag.com | 61 California). The Shenandoah Valley in California’s Zaca Mesa 2007 Black Bear Block Syr- Jorian Hill 2008 Syrah (Santa Ynez Val- Sierra Foothills is definitely showing its propensity for 93 ah (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review see 87 ley). Nice and dry, with a good cut of acidity Sangiovese here with longtime producer Amador Foot- page 5. balancing out the ripe black cherry and cola flavors. Ful- hill Winery doing a nice job on this 2007, a wine with ly drinkable now for the soft tannins, it’s a pleasant wine lots of dry, dusty tannins and mountain-grown structure Novy 2009 Simpson Vineyard Syrah (Dry that wants pairing with a grilled, salted and peppered that’s still got spice and will pair with Italian-inspired 92 Creek Valley). A terrific Syrah, and a refuta- steak. —S.H. dishes with ease. —V.B. tion to those who say this variety is irrelevant. No, it’s abv: 14.3% Price: $38 abv: 14.1% Price: $18 not. This delicious wine, with soft tannins, fine acidity and a wealth of berry, cocoa, licorice and bacon flavors, Scott Harvey 2008 Mountain Selection Tamás Estates 2009 Riserva Sangiovese fills a needed niche between Pinot Noir and a heavier 87 Syrah (Amador County). It’s no surprise that 86 (San Francisco Bay-Livermore Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. this Amador Syrah spent 21 months in French oak. The Bright and light at first almost like a California Pinot abv: 14.8% Price: $29 wine is very tannic, savory with a wisp of pepper. Still, Noir, with red fruit and cola paying a visit, the blend for a bigger, more tannic style mountain of Syrah it’s got of mostly Sangiovese (79%), 20% Barbera and 5% Pe- Bonny Doon 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyard some good acidity midpalate and through the finish and tit Verdot drinks big and full with a rustic finish. —V.B. 91 Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). With an official could be interesting with a rich serving of duck, venison abv: 14.1% Price: $NA alcohol of only 13.5%, this is one of the leanest Syrahs or game. —V.B. ever to emerge from this famous vineyard. It’s bone dry, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Sangiovese zingy in acidity and tannic, and the cherry and berry fla- 85 (Paso Robles). With the light body of Pinot vors flirt with earthier notes of tobacco and dried Pro- Zaca Mesa 2008 Syrah (Santa Ynez Val- Noir, this rustic wine shows the cherry flavors and high vençal herbs. Feels narrow gauge at first, but grows in 87 ley). A sweetly soft 100% Syrah, made for acidity associated with Sangiovese. It’s dry and tannic. the glass as it airs, becoming increasingly elegant and drinking now. It’s jammy and forward in raspberries, —S.H. interesting. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. cherries and mocha, with a dusting of pepper and cin- abv: 14.6% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 namon. Firm tannins provide a good grip in the mouth. —S.H. Longevity 2009 Sangiovese (Livermore Kendall-Jackson 2009 Vintner’s Reserve abv: 14.5% Price: $25 81 Valley). At 16.4% alcohol this might as well be 90 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). A good val- a Port, its aroma overwhelmingly sweet, overripe and ue in a wine this rich and complex. It’s very full-bodied Clos La Chance 2009 Estate Syrah (Cen- dominated by caramel syrup. The tannins are mouth- and dry, with immensely deep blackberry, currant, black 86 tral Coast). A pleasantly dry, fruity Syrah, with puckeringly dry, too. Tasted two bottles, both of which pepper, roasted meat, smoke and spice flavors that lin- spicy flavors of berries, currants, cola and plums, and a had crumbling corks. —V.B. ger long on the finish. Great with roasts and beef stews tangy streak of grilled bacon. Drink this soft wine now. abv: 16.4% Price: $22 over the next three years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $18

SYRAH/SHIRAZ San Marcos Creek 2009 Estate Syrah Niner 2007 Bootjack Ranch Syrah (Paso 90 (Paso Robles). Shows the lusty appeal of a 86 Robles). Defines a certain style of Paso Robles Bonaccorsi 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard big Paso Robles red wine, with blackberry, currant, dark red wine, soft in structure, with easy, gentle tannins and 94 Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). Huge aromas chocolate, teriaki beef, pepper and oak flavors, wrapped ripe, pronounced fruit that’s almost candied in sweet- on this Syrah, refined, very potent, offering waves of into firm tannins. A lovely, heady wine for drinking now ness. But in this case, the blackberry and cherry flavors cassis, blackberries, roasted coffee, grilled meat, black with your best grilled meats. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. are totally dry. —S.H. pepper, cedar and spices. Tastes as dense and lush as abv: 15.1% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 it smells, a full-bodied, rich wine, tannic and with good acidity. Finishes bone dry, yet sweet in cherries. A daz- Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2008 Occiden- Novy 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). Dry, tan- zling crowd-pleaser of a wine that should hold for five 89 tal Road Syrah Syrah (Sonoma Coast). 86 nic and rather bitter, a tough, hard wine de- years or so. —S.H. An elaborately rich, flamboyant Syrah whose ultraripe spite a solid core of blackberry and dark chocolate fruit. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 blackberry and cherry flavors have a tangy taste of ba- Needs rich, fatty meats and cheeses to break down the con. Plenty of new oak adds vanilla, buttered toast and astringency. —S.H. Dutton Estate 2008 My Father’s Vine- butterscotch. Almost too much of a good thing. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $19 94 yard Dutton Ranch Syrah (Russian River now. —S.H. Valley). Exceedingly ripe and a little high in alcohol, abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Wellington 2006 Estate Syrah (Sonoma this Syrah nonetheless is just delicious. It swamps the 86 Valley). Delicious and spicy, if a little too soft mouth with pie-filling flavors of blackberries, cherries Bonny Doon 2007 Alamo Creek Syrah in structure. Swamps the mouth with ripe, fruity flavors and raspberries, sprinkled with savory baking spices and 88 (San Luis Obispo County). With a mere of cherries, raspberries, currants and cola, with lots of enriched with sweet, smoky, caramelized oak. With firm 13.3% alcohol by volume, this wine represents Randall savory black pepper. —S.H. but pliant tannins, it’s a beautiful wine to drink now with Grahm’s efforts to get back to his interpretation of more abv: 14.3% Price: $25 roasted lamb or grilled steak. —S.H. balanced wines. What you get is elegance and fine struc- abv: 15.2% Price: $40 ture, at the cost of richness. Totally dry, it shows cherry J. Keverson 2008 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). fruit, anise and pepper flavors, with a cherryskin tannic 85 Everything about this Syrah is fine except the Bonaccorsi 2008 Larner Vineyard Syrah bitterness. —S.H. softness. It’s dry, rich in tannins and properly flavored, 93 (Santa Ynez Valley). A pretty wine, with a abv: 13.3% Price: $35 with layered notes of blackberries, cassis, dark choco- touch of wintergreen mint and bacon fat adding com- late, black pepper and dark chocolate. But it feels plexity to the blackberries, cherries and cassis. Co-fer- Meadowcroft 2007 Syrah (Sonoma lifeless in the mouth, lacking the vivacity a fine Syrah mented with some Viognier, it’s vibrant in the mouth, 88 County). Give this wine a brief decant to let it needs. —S.H. with a welcome cut of acidity to brighten and uplift the breathe and mellow. After a while, it’s soft and lush, with abv: 15.2% Price: $28 fruit. A flashy, elegant, opulent Syrah to drink over the rich flavors of blackberries, dark chocolate, pepper and next several years. —S.H. sweet cedar. Drink now. —S.H. Naggiar 2008 Estate Grown, Reserve abv: 14.9% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $34 84 Syrah (Sierra Foothills). Dark, dark, dark is

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 this estate-grown Syrah, closed at the nose except for Creek Zin, high in alcohol, brilliant in fruit and spices, It’s potent in cherry, blackberry and chocolate flavors, the profusion of alcohol, grippy with lots of oak and cra- and with that curious finish that’s both sweet and dry at even a little overripe in Porty raisins. Drink now with zy, teeth-staining tannins —V.B. the same time. Really dazzles with cherries, raspberries, barbecue or roasted meats. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $35 blackberries and all kinds of other wild forest berries. abv: 14.7% Price: $24 Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Olabisi 2006 King Vineyard Syrah (Su- abv: 15.2% Price: $20 J. Keverson 2008 Buck Hill Vineyard Zin- 84 isun Valley). Time has not tamed this in-your- 87 fandel (Sonoma County). This Zin is very face, oaky, high-octane Syrah, which on the label says it’s Philo Ridge 2007 Bliss Ranch Zinfandel rich and elaborate in chocolate, raspberry jam and also known as "rasta red." The wine is very tannic, smell- 89 (Mendocino). This wine from the hills above white pepper spice, and high alcohol gives it a glycerine ing of earth and tar and sticky caramel and could use a Anderson Valley needed time to open but once it did it sweetness. But a crisp streak of acidity provides need- touch more fruitiness to give it a lift. Do not attempt revealed itself to be a very good, cool-climate version of ed balance. Drink now with barbecue, Chinese mushu to drink without a sauce-slathered side of beef. —V.B. the variety. This is full of blackberry and peppery spice, pork, Mexican beef dishes. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $30 its high acidity perfect for a range of food. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $27 abv: 14.1% Price: $24 Tolosa 2008 Estate Syrah (Edna Valley). Jelly Jar 2009 Nova Vineyard Zinfandel 84 A hard, tannic Syrah, difficult to fall in love with. Scott Harvey 2007 Old Vine Reserve Zin- 87 (Lake County). Jelly Jar’s Lake County old- Edna Valley’s cool climate has given it tart acidity and 89 fandel (Amador County). An inviting old- vine Zin is jam-packed with dusty tannins and briary wintergreen flavors, sweetened with oak. —S.H. vine Zin with classically big, dry tannins and an over- black fruit but the finish is slightly uneven. Love the abv: 14.6% Price: $28 whelming nose of alcohol at first that blows off into a package though. —V.B. dense, chewy, black-fruit wine that’ll appeal to Zin lov- abv: 14.4% Price: $24 HAGT 2009 Syrah (California). A pretty ers, its two years in French oak giving it some lift and 83 simple little Syrah, fruity and sweet in cherries, complexity in texture. Lingering finish, too. —V.B. Kendall-Jackson 2009 Vintner’s Reserve with a sugary finish. Will pair nicely with a cheeseburg- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 87 Zinfandel (Mendocino County). KJ’s Men- er. —S.H. docino County Zin has both red and black berry fruit abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Amador Foothill Winery 2007 Esola Vine- flavor and the spiciness one expects from dry-farmed 88 yard Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley of Mendocino County vineyards, though the tannins stick Michael David 2009 Sixth Sense Syrah California). A very nicely priced Zin from 66-year-old, around a bit longer than one might like. Cedar definite- 83 Syrah (Lodi). Unfortunately, a vast disap- dry-farmed Sierra Foothills vines that has an intense ly shows up on the finish. —V.B. pointment after the 2008, this vintage is gamey on the spiciness right from the get-go and is appropriately tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $16 nose and smooth drinking at first but simple, with no nic and meaty, big and classic for its historical roots. spiciness, no nuances, too much sugar, not enough acid Plum, blackberry and tobacco predominate and already Madrigal 2008 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). and so high in alcohol) without the fruit to tame. —V.B. with four years of age, this one could age more. —V.B. 87 Lots of sweet fruit in this Zin. Floods the mouth abv: 15.5% Price: $16 abv: 15.4% Price: $18 with red, blue and black berries, sprinkled with dusty Indian spices and finished with a dash of cocoa. Nice Barefoot NV Shiraz (California). Sweet and C.G. di Arie 2008 Estate Grown, Block 4 tannins give it a fine structure. —S.H. 82 simple, with jammy raspberry and bubblegum 88 Primitivo (Shenandoah Valley of Califor- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 flavors. —S.H. nia). This Sierra Foothills Primitivo smells good, lively abv: 13% Price: $7 and of dark, berries, which carry into the taste of the Rubus 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel Zinfandel wine. Well-integrated and the alcohol reined in, this ef- 87 (Lodi). A big, full yet nicely balanced old-vine Manzanita Creek 2008 De Luxe Syrah fort finishes with a lasting note of cocoa. —V.B. Zin with the variety’s spiciness front and center and fine 82 (Sonoma County). A raw, hot wine, thin in abv: 14.4% Price: $25 notes of cherry and plum. —V.B. fruit, showing overripe raisin and prune flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Foggy Bridge 2009 GEO Zinfandel (San 88 Francisco Bay). Daryl Groom is making De Loach 2009 Zinfandel (Russian River Pomar Junction 2009 Syrah (Paso Ro- these wines from Livermore Valley vineyards mostly 86 Valley). A solid Zin for everyday drinking. A lit- 82 bles). Sharp and aggressive in acidity and un- and the wine is no doubt big in every way—15.6% al- tle rough and thin, but dry and spicy, with berry, currant ripe tannins, with a green mint edge to the cherries cohol with big tannins and big black, spicy fruit flavors and teriaki flavors. —S.H. and raspberries, which actually are quite sweet. It’s an hiding in there at first. It definitely needs time to open. abv: 15% Price: $20 unbalanced, rustic wine with excessively high alcohol. And a giant, slathered-in-sauce kind of steak or other —S.H. red meat. —V.B. Haraszthy 2008 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel abv: 15.5% Price: $36 abv: 15.6% Price: $28 86 (Lodi). Haraszthy’s old-vine wine has a good Zin nose and great mouthfeel and just the right balance Noceto 2007 OGP - The Original Grand- of spice and plumminess. Medium in weight it’s not ZINFANDEL/PRIMITIVO 88 pere Vineyard Zinfandel (Amador Coun- heavy-handed the way old-vine Zin can often be, tast- ty). Noceto is a Sangiovese specialist in the Sierra Foot- ing of just-ripe blackberries, but the spice that’s so nice C.G. di Arie 2008 Zinfandel (Sierra Foot- hills but does a nice job with Zinfandel here, sourcing throughout doesn’t stick around for the finish. —V.B. 90 hills). A very spicy, thick mountain-fruit Zin from the "original" Grandpere Vineyard, which dates abv: 14.5% Price: $13 that shows a fantastic balance between blackberry fruit back to the 1860s and which the winery says may be the and peppery, briary-ness with dark chocolate showing oldest producing Zin vineyard in the world. The wine Renwood 2008 Jack Rabbit Flat Zinfan- up on the finish. An elegant Zin from a producer striving is classic old-vine, good and juicy with blackberry pre- 86 del (Amador County). An austere, savory Zin to do good things in its little pocket of the Sierra Foot- dominant, but also tannic and brambly, dusty even, with from Amador, one of the smaller-production Zinfandels hills’ world. It’s priced well. —V.B. a hint of mint. —V.B. from Renwood and it shows. Firm tannins, dusty black abv: 14.3% Price: $18 abv: 14.9% Price: $29 fruit and spice—a good option for Sierra Foothills Zin fans. —V.B. Pedroncelli 2009 Bushnell Vineyard Zin- Girard 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel (Napa abv: 15% Price: $35 89 fandel (Dry Creek Valley). Classic Dry 87 Valley). This is a strongly flavored Zinfandel.

WineMag.com | 63 Rock Wall 2009 Monte Rosso Vineyard HammerSky 2008 Estate Zinfandel (Paso M. Cosentino 2008 Cigar Zin Zinfandel 86 Reserve Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Hot 84 Robles). Some overripe raisin flavors give this 82 (California). High alcohol gives this Zin jala- and scoury in high alcohol, and that burn is accented by Zin a bitter taste, although it’s totally dry. Shows flavors peño pepper heat, while the overripeness shows up as Zin’s powerhouse tingly spices. The flavors are extracted of chocolate and spicy blackberry jam. —S.H. raisiny, porty notes. —S.H. and sweet in raspberries, cherries and milk chocolate. abv: 14.8% Price: $39 abv: 15.4% Price: $22 Enjoy this rugged Zin with barbecue and roasts. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $30 J. Keverson 2008 Zinfandel (Sonoma Manzanita Creek 2008 Three Vines Zin- 84 County). Soft and sweet, with jammy berry 82 fandel (Sonoma County). Sweet and Porty, Cedar Mountain 2009 Reserve Zinfandel and currant flavors, and the glyceriney sugar of high al- an overripe wine with lots of ripe, jammy fruit and a hot 85 (Livermore Valley). A big and intense Zin cohol. Will appeal to fans of this style, but it’s really too finish. —S.H. with a pucker that holds on, this Livermore red is heavy sweet for a dry table wine. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $28 and a bit dull aromatically, opening up to show spice, abv: 15.3% Price: $26 black fruit and cedar but overall it finishes short. —V.B. Earthquake 2009 Zinfandel (Lodi). The abv: 15.6% Price: $33 Jacuzzi 2009 Primitivo (Lake County). 81 back of the label on this heavy bottle says about 84 Something is lacking in this, which has a domi- the wine that it is, "intentionally hostile" and they are Clos La Chance 2009 Estate Zinfandel nant aroma of baked bread and savory mushrooms. Tan- not kidding. At 16% alcohol it’s huge, alcoholic, juicy 85 (Central Coast). Loaded with raspberry, nic and oaky, its year spent in American oak, 30% of that and fleshy with bacon fat and bologna aromas. A bit dull cherry, cola, raisin and spice flavors, this Zinfandel is new, hasn’t done it many favors. —V.B. to many, hostile and full of flavor to others. —V.B. useful for pairing with barbecue. A nice Reuben sand- abv: 15% Price: $22 abv: 16% Price: $26 wich will also star. The wine is rustically likeable. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Novy 2009 Carlisle Vineyard Zinfandel Joel Gott 2007 Mohr-Fry Ranches Zinfan- 84 (Russian River Valley). Too sweet. Wheth- 81 del (Lodi). This usually solid producer hasn’t J. Keverson 2008 Thurow Vineyard Zin- er that’s because of leftover sugar, high alcohol or both, made anything special here, this Lodi zin’s aromas veer- 85 fandel (Dry Creek Valley). The alcohol on this Zin is more like a Porty dessert wine. It’s delicious ing into questionable metallic areas, though on the pal- this wine is 16.2%, so high that it makes the wine taste and rich, but the sweetness has to be counted as a de- ate the wine has some fruit. —V.B. as sweet as Port. There may even be residual sugar, giv- fect. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 ing it the taste of blackberry jam and chocolate. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $34 abv: 16.2% Price: $30 Renwood 2008 Fiddletown Zinfandel Sorelle Winery 2009 Sorriso Primitivo 81 (Fiddletown). This Fiddletown Zin, a year- M. Cosentino 2008 The Zin Zinfandel 84 (Lodi). Tight and tannic, like red brick, bread ly offering from Renwood, has a slight burnt smell of 85 (Lodi). Yeasty at first, this Lodi Zin from Napa’s and caramel, this Lodi Primitivo has 5% Barbera mixed strong coffee and a burn on its finish, perhaps due to the Cosentino Winery is dense and on the clove and ultrar- in but the entire effort tastes of not-quite-ripe blackber- high alcohol. —V.B. ipe blackberry side of the Zin spectrum, decently simple ries. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $25 in its intensity. —V.B. abv: 14.75% Price: $22 abv: 15.2% Price: $22 Scott Harvey 2008 Mountain Selection Zynthesis 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel Zin- 81 Zinfandel (Amador County). This mountain Nelson Family Vineyards 2007 Estate 84 fandel (Lodi). One must strain to smell the Zin is aromatically akin to flat cola and alcohol, its tan- 85 Zinfandel (Mendocino). This estate-grown ripe plum at first in this wine that is otherwise more nins towering over the fruit like fortress bullies. —V.B. inland Mendocino Zin has an inviting spiciness and is tannic than juicy or flavorful. Buoyed by American oak abv: 14.5% Price: $20 plenty briary with a full body of flavor but its high-alco- and a dash or two of Syrah and Petite Sirah it’s rightly hol level masks any other nuances. —V.B. priced. —V.B. Renwood 2007 Red Label Zinfandel (Si- abv: 15.7% Price: $23 abv: 14.8% Price: $11 80 erra Foothills). Low in price, high in quantity, low in quality. Dry and tannic with an off taste, the wine Paul Dolan 2009 Zinfandel (Mendocino Cedar Mountain 2007 Hansen Vineyard doesn’t get better with time. —V.B. 85 County). Paul Dolan has been making some 83 Reserve Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $12 great wines from his patch of biodynamic Mendocino Funky with prune and tobacco overwhelming any fresh- farmland but this Zin didn’t deliver the wealth of flavors er fruit, this Livermore Zin is high in alcohol (15.8%), many of his others have, muted aromatically and the which coats the tongue for a long time after the wine OTHER REDS tannins a touch stewy. Best with boldly flavored foods goes down. —V.B. around the barbecue or campfire. —V.B. abv: 15.8% Price: $33 Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Franc (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $25 95 Valley). For full review see page 3. Glen Ellen 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel (Cali- Rock Wall 2009 Westphall Ridge Vine- 83 fornia). For full review see page 14. PharaohMoans 2009 Westside (Paso Ro- 85 yard Rockpile Road Zinfandel (Sonoma 92 bles). If you know the Rhône-style wines of County). A somewhat rustic wine, edgy in tannins and Manzanita Creek 2005 Carreras Ranch Saxum, which is probably Paso Robles’ most expensive not quite ripe yet jammy at the same time, with olive, 83 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). A heavy, wine, this is nearly identical. Mostly Syrah, with 8% Gr- herb, blackberry and oak flavors. The spices are the nic- sweet Zin. With 16% alcohol, it tastes like a simple Port, enache, the wine is decadently rich in milk chocolate, est part. —S.H. with raisin, blackberry and chocolate flavors. —S.H. blackberry jam and sweet, smoky oak flavors. It’s very abv: 14.8% Price: $35 abv: 16% Price: $38 high in alcohol, but unless you’re an extremist in this regard, you can’t help but be knocked out by the wine’s Adelaida 2008 Michael’s Vineyard Zin- Wellington 2007 Meeks Hilltop Ranch sensuous pleasures. —S.H. 84 fandel (Paso Robles). Soft and sweet, like 83 Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). Thin and sim- abv: 15.9% Price: $95 a melted fruit tart dessert in wine form. High alcohol ple, with ripe wild berry, cherry, currant, tobacco and gives a burn to the Porty raisin, blackberry and choco- pepper spice flavors that finish dry and watery. —S.H. Adelaida 2008 Version (Paso Robles). late flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $25 91 With this Mourvedre-dominated wine, Adelai- abv: 15.2% Price: $32 da vies for supremecy in the red Rhône-style competi-

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 tion. The wine is rich in jammy cherry, raspberry and Cinnabar NV Cruvée Lot III (California). Madrigal 2009 Tempranillo (Calistoga). blackberry jam fruit, with smoky oak overtones and lots 86 Tastes sharp in acidity and frankly sweet, with 85 Similar to Pinot Noir in the light, silky texture, of exotic spices. The richness is balanced by acidity and sugary blackberry and cherry jam flavors that finish in a easy tannins and cherry flavors. A good, dry wine, but firmly sweet, ripe tannins. An impressive wine to drink swirl of baking spices. The blend is Syrah, Merlot, Cab- rustic, and a little unbalanced in ripeness levels. —S.H. with Indian food, or a steak with french fried potatoes. ernet Franc and Petite Sirah. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $40 —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2008 Les Trois Grizzly Republic 2008 Gypsy Noir (Paso 85 Amis (Sonoma County). Too sweet and Bonny Doon 2007 Le Cigare Volant (Cen- 86 Robles). A blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah, sharp for balance, with an acetic bite to the rich rasp- 91 tral Coast). A provocative wine. If you’re tired Mourvèdre and other varieties, this is a standard-issue berry, cherry, cola, cocoa and spice flavors. The blend of soft, oaky red wines, try this Rhône-style blend. It’s red wine, soft and a little sweet, with pie-filling flavors is Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H. super dry, rich in furry tannins and has a good cut of of cherries and raspberries. It’s light and spicy on the abv: 13.9% Price: $65 acidity that gives brightness to the wild cherry and rasp- finish. —S.H. berry, chamomile tea, nettle, lavender and black pepper abv: NA Price: $27 Toad Hollow 2009 Erik’s the Red (Cali- flavors. —S.H. 85 fornia). A good everyday wine, tannic and dry, abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Prospero 2009 Cabernet Franc (Chalk with flavors of herbs, ripe berries and currants, and sa- 86 Hill). Rich fruit marks this soft, simple wine. It’s vory spices. The seven-variety blend starts with Merlot Holly’s Hill 2009 Classique Mourvèdre ripe in black cherries and spices, with a smoky, oaky lay- and ends with Petite Sirah. —S.H. 91 (El Dorado). Now we’re talking. A robust yet er that brings in vanilla and sweet butterscotch. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 restrained take on Mourvèdre from a Rhône specialist abv: 14.5% Price: $22 in El Dorado, this wine rocks through and through, tast- un4seen 2009 Red Blend (California). For ing of dark cherry tart and following that up with excel- Tablas Creek 2009 Cotes de Tablas 85 full review see page 14. lent texture and length. A 100% version of the variety 86 Rouge (Paso Robles). A dry, soft wine that that might convert doubters of this grape and further depends on richness to get by, at the expense of struc- Beckmen 2009 Cuvée Le Bec (Santa prove pockets of the Sierra Foothills’ potential are real. ture. Raspberries, cherries, mocha, cinnamon and pep- 84 Ynez Valley). Simple and sharp in acidity, with Plus at $20, why not try it out? —V.B. per are the flavors of this blend of Grenache, Syrah, jammy raspberry and cherry flavors commingling in an abv: 14% Price: $20 Counoise and Mourvèdre. —S.H. uncomfortable coating of sweet oak. This Rhône-style abv: 14.5% Price: $30 blend from Beckmen is a disappointment. —S.H. Zaca Mesa 2007 Z Three (Santa Ynez Val- abv: 14.4% Price: $18 90 ley). For full review see page 8. Blue Nomad 2008 Rockus Bockus (So- 85 noma County). A good and useful red blend, Calcareous 2008 Tres Violet (Paso Ro- Tamás Estates 2008 Toscanelli Red Wine a little green in peppermint, but spicy and dry, with 84 bles). This tastes like a hot, simple wine 89 (San Francisco Bay-Livermore Valley). berry and cola flavors. Just fine for a full-bodied house whose berry, cherry and bacon flavors have been acidi- Clean, bright and full-flavored with lovely acidity ac- wine. —S.H. fied, making it strangely unbalanced. It finishes on the cented by cherry and plum, this wine would be deli- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 sweet, jammy side. Made of roughly equal parts Syrah, cious with prosciutto as well as any antipasti. —V.B. Mourvèdre and Grenache. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $23 Diamond Ridge Vineyards 2007 2 Jakes abv: 15.8% Price: $38 85 Red Blend (Clear Lake). 2 Jakes smells C.G. di Arie 2008 Interlude (Sierra Foot- sweet and alcoholic at first, then veers left with cran- Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2009 Mourvè- 88 hills). A red blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite berry aromas, veers right with a pinch of cola and fin- 84 dre (Napa Valley). Light in the mouth and Sirah and Primitivo, much of it estate grown, full of ishes tannic. Keep the food fatty and simple and it’ll go silky, like a Pinot Noir, with cherry and raspberry fruit chewy mountain fruit flavors, structured and smoky (in well. —V.B. flavors. A little one-dimensional, but okay now with a a good way) and earthy, too. The traces of licorice and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 nice cheeseburger. —S.H. herbs would be interesting with a similarly herbed piece abv: 13.6% Price: $28 of fish or chicken. —V.B. Fenestra 2007 Silvaspoons Vineyard Al- abv: 14.4% Price: $25 85 varelhão (Lodi). A Livermore Valley sourcing Brophy Clark 2009 G-S-M (Santa Ynez a Portuguese red grape variety from a Lodi vineyard. 83 Valley). This blend of Grenache, Syrah and Fenestra 2006 Tourvanillo, Silvaspoons Does it work? The wine’s dark purple yet subdued at Mourvèdre is unbalanced. It’s sweet in dessert red berry 87 Vineyard Reserve (Lodi). Fenestra real- first in flavor, opening slightly into tones of blueberry, fruit, with an awkward streak of acidity. —S.H. ly loves sourcing from Lodi’s Silvaspoons Vineyard, a raspberry and sour cherry, a smidgen of spice on the fin- abv: 14.5% Price: $13 source here for this proprietary blend, a kitchen sink of ish. Worth trying. —V.B. varieties. The wine is rustic, juicy and versatile, lots of abv: 13.7% Price: $18 Austin Hope NV Troublemaker (Paso Ro- blackberry, blueberry and cherry going on, and modest 82 bles). This blend of Syrah, Grenache and a few in alcohol at 13%. —V.B. Fenestra 2008 Tempranillo (Lodi). A plush, other varieties feels hot in the mouth, even though the abv: 13% Price: $28 85 big, oaky California Tempranillo with plum, fig alcohol is officially only 14.5%. It’s thin and dry in jam- and black cherry in the mix, but also clove, bittersweet my berry flavors. —S.H. Tamás Estates 2008 Fiorente Red Wine chocolate and did we mention, oak? Oy, the oak. Maybe abv: 14.5% Price: $18 87 (San Francisco Bay-Livermore Valley). more than it needed. A pruney aftertaste muddles the Made in a Super-Tuscan style with 49% of the blend finish. —V.B. Rock Wall 2009 The Palindrome Tannat Sangiovese (the rest 33% Cab Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, abv: 14.2% Price: $24 82 (California). Thin in structure, with simple, 1% Zin and 1% Syrah) this wine is big, meaty and savory sweet jam and herb flavors, this Tannat has strong tan- with sweet tannins and vanilla laced throughout while Jorian Hill 2008 BEEspoke (Santa Ynez nins and acids. —S.H. still balanced enough to be a good choice with red meat 85 Valley). This Syrah and Grenache blend is soft abv: 15.4% Price: $22 and red sauce. —V.B. and easy to drink now, offering raspberry and cherry abv: 14.2% Price: $30 jam flavors with a hit of sweet, smoky oak. —S.H. Vina Robles 2009 Red4 (Paso Robles). abv: 14.5% Price: $38 82 Maybe they took all the leftover wine and mixed

WineMag.com | 65 it together?. A Rhône-style blend based on Petite Sirah, Apex 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- best in a league of their own. Rich and bracing and fully it’s dry, tannic and jammy. —S.H. 87 ley). Overall this shows a softness in the mouth, ready to drink. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $16 with light flavors of buttery green banana. It’s creamy, abv: 12.8% Price: $18 easy-drinking, streaked with vanilla and suggestions of sweet spices. —P.G. J. Bookwalter 2010 Anecdote Riesling SWEET REDS abv: NA Price: $15 91 (Columbia Valley). Somehow this manages to be intensely fruity, searingly tart and still rounded out Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2006 Latigo Goose Ridge 2009 Chardonnay (Colum- with appealing sweetness. It’s a dynamic, lively and lin- 89 Dessert Wine Cabernet Sauvignon (Red 87 bia Valley). A peachy, fruit-forward, mouthfill- gering mix of flavors, running from grapefruit into pear Hills Lake County). Hawk and Horse makes an im- ing wine that brings bright Washington fruit— peaches, and apricot, with an underlying minerality. Powerful pressive Red Hills Cabernet Sauvignon so it’s no sur- apples and pears—into play, along with caramel candy and full-bodied. Best Buy. —P.G. prise they would excel with a Port-style fortified wine and underlying acid support. It falls short only in the abv: 12.8% Price: $15 made from their same, biodynamically farmed, moun- finish, which turns slightly bitter and attenuated. —P.G. tain Cab Sauv grapes. Dark-cherry red in color and aro- abv: NA Price: $18 Trust 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley). ma with a leathery, cigar nose, this wine is super rich in 91 Another fine vintage for Trust Riesling, with a texture, full of caramel and dark plum, finishing smooth Three Rivers 2009 Chardonnay (Co- pretty, lilting cadence that weaves the sweet/tart fruits and long. Very pleasant to drink, with the tannins nicely 87 lumbia Valley). Entirely barrel fermented in into scents of melon, citrus and orange peel. Flavors fol- mellowed. —V.B. French oak, just half the wine went through malolac- low, with a strong impression of English breakfast tea. abv: 16% Price: $45 tic fermentation. It’s a good call; the remaining acidity Editors’ Choice. —P.G. lifts the buttery banana fruit flavors, and prevents the abv: 12.4% Price: $16 Fenestra 2004 Silvaspoons Vineyard Port wine from going all soft and flabby. Definitely a butter- 87 (Lodi). Made from native Portuguese grapes, ball style, with toasted nuts and popcorn flavors front Pacific Rim 2010 Riesling (Columbia Val- this Lodi-sourced Port-style wine has a strong, sweet and center. —P.G. 90 ley). For full review see page 10. nose of big-time ripe cherry and blackberry with a hint abv: 14% Price: $18 of meat, almost jamón. Balanced on the finish, veering Pacific Rim 2010 Sweet Riesling (Colum- slightly too sweet midpalate. —V.B. Magnificent Wine Company 2009 House 89 bia Valley). Plenty sweet with alcohol at just abv: 18% Price: $17/375 ml 86 Wine Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). 8.5%, yet dry enough to accompany a main course of There are some toasty, Graham cracker highlights in the poultry or seafood in a fruit sauce, this round and pleas- Montoliva 2008 Viani Vineyard Barbera nose, leading into a full, round wine with lemon verbena ing wine has a mix of stone fruits and juicy acidity. Best 87 (Sierra Foothills). Fans of Barbera will want accents. Fruity, soft and broad, with apple and melon. Buy. —P.G. to give this late-harvest version a try, a wine with plenty Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 8.5% Price: $10 of toffee and oak on the nose that’s sweet and fruity, rus- abv: NA Price: $11 tic in the right ways, though tasting a little overripe on Kennedy Shah 2009 Dubrul Vineyard the finish. Residual sugar is listed at 3.3% by weight; the Stonecap 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia 88 Reserve Riesling (Yakima Valley). A rare sugar at harvest was 31 degrees Brix. —V.B. 84 Valley). Clean and fresh, with light citrus and Riesling from the excellent Dubrul vineyard, this tastes abv: 14.4% Price: $20/500 ml apple flavors. A pleasant, somewhat beery flavor.Best of lemons and apples, with crisp acidity underlying the Buy. —P.G. sharply-defined fruit. Good penetration, with hints of Barefoot NV Delicious (California). Sweet abv: 13.8% Price: $8 orange peel and grapefruit, along with a drying miner- 82 red wines are making a comeback in the U.S., ality. —P.G. and if you’re into them, this is your entry level. It’s sug- abv: 14.3% Price: $36 ary and jammy. —S.H. PINOT GRIS abv: 10.5% Price: $7 Waterbrook 2010 Riesling (Columbia Willow Crest 2010 Estate Grown Pinot 88 Valley). Though rather high in residual sugar 89 Gris (Yakima Valley). A strong spice scent (4.4%), this Riesling balances it against generous acidi- WASHINGTON WHITES comes with a hint of vanilla bean. Fruit flavors of lime ty. The wine strikes a dynamic tension, with white peach and fresh-cut pear are framed by an underlying miner- fruit played out against mineral flavors of wet stone and CHARDONNAY ality. As always with Willow Crest Pinot Gris, there is some citrus rind. Good, clean, balanced, moderate- good penetration and length. Best Buy. —P.G. ly long and ultimately not too sweet for main courses. Januik 2009 Cold Creek Vineyard Char- abv: NA Price: $10 Best Buy. —P.G. 93 donnay (Columbia Valley). Cold Creek is abv: NA Price: $11 a great Chardonnay site, and winemaker Mike Januik Waterbrook 2010 Pinot Gris (Columbia has been making wine from these grapes since his years 88 Valley). Clean, complex aromatics offer el- Willow Crest 2010 Estate Grown Riesling at Chateau Ste. Michelle. A sleek, sculptural, finely de- egant notes of jasmine, cucumber and melon. This is 88 (Yakima Valley). A delightful wine, low in al- tailed effort, this mixes pretty orange and citrus and an interesting Pinot Gris, light but not simple, with lin- cohol and done in a style reminiscent of an elegant Ger- light tropical fruits with racy acidity and subtle streaks gering floral/apple flavors and impeccable balance.Best man kabinett. Stone fruits anchor an off-dry mix of fruit of butterscotch and caramel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Buy. —P.G. and acid, with a hint of honeysuckle livening up the fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: NA Price: $11 ish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $10 Olsen Estates 2008 Chardonnay (Yakima 92 Valley). The Olsens are growers with decades RIESLING Magnificent Wine Company 2010 The of experience, and this is as lush and thoroughly deli- 87 Originals Riesling (Columbia Valley). cious as Washington Chardonnay can ever be. A big, Gamache Vintners 2009 Estate Riesling Even better in the mouth than the nose, where a lit- toasty mouthful of fruit salad—citrus, pineapple and 91 (Columbia Valley). With 1.7% residual sug- tle spritz adds lift and pleasure, against a lightly chalky peach in particular—runs into a smooth, luscious wash ar keeping the alcohol at 12.8%, this fresh and lively minerality. Very fresh, this is a perfect-by-the glass pour, of buttery oak. Yum. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Riesling, from veteran growers, has the complex mix of with apple and white peach fruit. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $20 citrus, pineapple, rind and rock that puts Washington’s abv: NA Price: $11

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Wedge Mountain 2010 Dry Riesling with plenty of acidity that does not turn at all sour. Best If you love searing acidity, married to varietal spice, rose 85 (Washington). Wedge Mountain makes a Buy. —P.G. petals, lemons, grapefruit, star fruit and gooseberries, Riesling that is as bone dry as any Riesling can possi- abv: NA Price: $9 you are in for a treat. Fermented in neutral French oak bly be. It’s consistent, and styled for slurping with fresh and left on the lees, this could age for decades. Cellar oysters more than anything. Mouth-puckering acidity, Three Rivers 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Selection. —P.G. lean citrus fruits and a lingering sense of sucking on a 88 (Horse Heaven Hills). The blend is 83% abv: 12.8% Price: $22 ripe lemon. —P.G. Sauvignon Blanc and 17% Sémillon, sourced from vine- abv: 13.9% Price: $18 yards located on Red Mountain and in the Columbia L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Chenin Blanc (Co- Basin. A mix of sweet herb, lemongrass and citrus scents 91 lumbia Valley). Wonderful as usual, this stel- Three Rivers 2009 Riesling (Columbia and flavors, this is a crisp, stylish and smooth-drinking lar Chenin Blanc, from 30-year-old old vines at two dif- 84 Valley). Sourced entirely from the Bacchus white. —P.G. ferent Yakima valley sites, is dense, ripe and complex— vineyard, this is an uneasy mix of dry and sweet, as if abv: 13.7% Price: $16 words you rarely see associated with reviews of domes- both styles were trying to come out in a single wine. The tic Chenin Blanc. A riot of melon, citrus and peach, residual sugar is grainy and sweet, not quite integrated Waterbrook 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Co- with juicy acidity and refreshing minerality. Best Buy. into the tart fruit flavors of nectarine and apricot. —P.G. 88 lumbia Valley). Pretty, fruity and round, with —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $15 good varietal character and fruit flavors running from abv: 13.5% Price: $15 tree fruits to tropical. There is also a palate-pleasing, spun sugar highlight, suggesting a trace of residual sug- Isenhower 2010 White Paintbrush (Yaki- SAUVIGNON BLANC ar has been left in the wine. Best Buy. —P.G. 90 ma Valley). Roughly four-fifths Roussanne and abv: NA Price: $11 one-fifth Marsanne, this crisp, clean and elegant white Barrister 2010 Klipsun Vineyard Sauvi- wine is underscored with bracing minerality. The fruit 92 gnon Blanc (Red Mountain). This is a gor- suggests gentle flavors of pineapple and papaya, mango geous wine, so good in fact it makes one wonder why VIOGNIER and melon, a lovely melding of citrus and tropical. A Sauv Blanc hasn’t yet become a superstar grape for pleasing wine with modest alcohol and plenty of finesse. Washington. Lush tree fruits, preserved lemon, Satsu- Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine- —P.G. ma orange and highlights of honeysuckle and citrus oil 90 yard Viognier (Columbia Valley). Fragrant abv: 13.2% Price: $19 keep the wine moving and changing. It simply fills the and varietal, with sharp-edged scents and flavors. Lem- mouth with luscious flavor. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. on polish, pine needle and citrus rind give it a compel- Waterbrook 2010 Mélange Blanc (Colum- abv: NA Price: $19 ling pungency. It broadens out in the midpalate, with 89 bia Valley). A Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürz- stone fruit flavors piling on. —P.G. traminer, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier Cadaretta 2010 sbs Sauvignon Blanc- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 blend, with aromas that are most reminiscent of Viog- 92 Sémillon (Columbia Valley). The best sbs nier and Gewürz with that mix of crisp citrus and bright, yet, this riveting and succulent blend of 75% Sauvignon Gamache Vintners 2010 Velida Estate floral fruit. Packed with tasty fruit flavor of melon, apri- Blanc and 25% Sémillon is a spicy, tangy, racy wine with 89 Viognier (Columbia Valley). This estate- cot and peach, this lingers gracefully through the finish. thrilling flavors across the full spectrum. From nettle to grown Viognier sort of sneaks up on your palate. At Best Buy. —P.G. gooseberry, citrus and grapefruit, it has a lush texture first quite dry and slightly bitter, it slowly brings in sub- abv: NA Price: $13 and bracing minerality that persist through a long, in- tle suggestions of jasmine and gin, citrus rind and wet tense finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. stone. Still, a bit severe, but interesting. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine- abv: NA Price: $23 abv: NA Price: $18 88 yard Roussanne (Columbia Valley). El- egant and fairly light, with suggestions of white peach Apex Ascent 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Co- Ott & Murphy 2009 Viognier (Columbia and lemon rind. There is a hint of bitter astringency, 91 lumbia Valley). Minerality, hints of earthy 86 Valley). An uneasy mix of grapes and flavors. but the pretty, roundly fruity midpalate compensates, loam and a whiff of barnyard augment this nicely-nu- Peaches and apricots—more skin than flesh—seem and with ample breathing time, it fills in nicely. —P.G. anced wine. Complex, crisp and lingering, it’s balanced to hit a hard wall and just stop. Can a Viognier have a abv: 13.5% Price: $22 and threaded with mixed citrus, green apple and some "dumb" phase? That is what seems to be going on here. grape skin flavors. Best Buy. —P.G. —P.G. Goose Ridge 2009 g3 (Columbia Valley). abv: NA Price: $11 abv: 14.9% Price: $20 85 A simple, five-grape blend. Perfectly sound sip- ping white, clean and short. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine- abv: 13.7% Price: $14 91 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). OTHER WHITES A generous mix of lime, rock, pineapple, vanilla wafer and still more detailed notes that suggest orange, pa- Olsen Estates 2009 Blanc des Cote- ROSÉS paya and lemon verbena. Still young and a bit hard; this 92 aux (Yakima Valley). A white Rhône-style fine value should be cellarable for up to five years.Edi - blend—62% Roussanne, 34% Viognier and 4% Mar- Cayuse 2009 Edith Rosé (Walla Walla tors’ Choice. —P.G. sanne—all estate grown, and done with Olsen’s custom- 92 Valley). Made from 100% Grenache, this is a abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ary polish and style. The fruit is deep and perfectly rip- pale, pretty copper/onion skin color. It offers stunning ened, with powerful flavors of tree fruits and tropical aromas of strawberry, citrus peel, tree fruits and miner- Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Sauvi- highlights. A very fine effort, right through the lingering als. It’s whole cluster fermented, from vines that have 91 gnon Blanc (Columbia Valley). For full re- finish.Best Buy. —P.G. been picked and grown specifically to be a rosé—not a view see page 7. abv: 14.2% Price: $12 saignée. Great concentration and power. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $35 Washington Hills 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Dowsett Family 2010 Celilo Vineyard 90 (Washington). Aromatically inviting, with 91 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). Chris Trust 2010 Rosé of Cabernet Franc (Co- a lovely mix of sweet grass and light, fresh sugar pea Dowsett makes just a single Gewürztraminer each year, 90 lumbia Valley). There is just the slightest scents. Tart, spicy passionfruit, grapefruit and starfruit always from Celilo vines planted in 1982. 2010 was the trace of sweetness in this rosé of Cabernet Franc, and flavors contribute to a lovely bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, coolest vintage in two decades at this high-altitude site. it’s perfectly positioned to round out the dusty tannins.

WineMag.com | 67 The fruit mixes together brambly berry and blue plum, cassis, coffee, licorice and more. Editors’ Choice. Baer 2008 Arctos (Columbia Valley). with a rich and lingering finish. A compelling wine given —P.G. 93 Baer’s Arctos blend is about three fifths Caber- its humble aspirations. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 net Sauvignon, and here the grape shows less fat, and abv: 12.4% Price: $16 more structure than in the previous vintage. It’s a better Adams Bench 2007 The V Cabernet Sau- wine, sleek and yet fruity, with a pleasing mix of black- L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Alder Ridge Vine- 94 vignon (Columbia Valley). This is right berry and cassis. The tannins are forceful, herbal, and 88 yard Grenache Rosé (Horse Heaven down the center of the house style—plenty of new oak, sturdy, giving the finish a firm spine. The grace notes Hills). Finished with just a bare trace of sweetness, deeply fruited, dark and smoky, with high alcohol and a of clove and coffee and loam continue to add interest this delightful, fruity Grenache rosé mixes fresh rasp- strong, smoky bourbon barrel flavor. It’s a classic steak- as the wine lingers through a dense finish. Cellar Se- berry and pale cherry fruit with hints of toasted cracker. house wine. Some high-toned fruit puts it all in focus. lection. —P.G. Round and tangy, it’s a perfect sipping wine for outdoor For those who love big, tannic, oaky Cabs, this one de- abv: NA Price: $41 dining. —P.G. livers. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.9% Price: $42 J. Bookwalter 2008 Foreshadow Caber- 93 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). In an Dusted Valley 2010 Ramblin’ Rosé (Walla Januik 2008 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard effort to further differentiate the Foreshadow Merlot 87 Walla Valley). This vintage is sourced entirely 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). from the Foreshadow Cabernet, winemaker John Book- from the estate vineyard, a mix of four Rhône varieties. Across the lineup, Januik’s Cabernets are steely, sharp- walter has kept each out of the other’s blend. This is Cherry red, fruity and round, it’s a crisp and stylish rosé edged and cellar-worthy. Which makes this Ciel du Che- a riveting, complex, supersized wine, with alcohol over for near-term drinking. —P.G. val bottling, which is usually that way to begin, perhaps 15% and plenty of intriguing barrel flavors. The black abv: NA Price: $20 the most archetypical of them all. Think black cherry cherry-berry fruit is swathed in spice, chocolate, cedar with nerves of steel, set on a foundation of pure rock. and coffee, complex and well-crafted. —P.G. Stick it in the cellar for another decade or more—if you abv: NA Price: $42 WASHINGTON REDS can keep your hands off it. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 Adams Bench 2008 Red Willow Vineyard CABERNETS & BLENDS 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon single-vineyard wine is three quarters Cabernet Sau- Cayuse 2008 Widowmaker Cabernet 94 (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page 4. vignon and one quarter Merlot. The tannins are quite 96 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Superb drying, but the fruit is outstanding. Berries, plums, and sculpture and definition in this compact and lightly Adams Bench 2008 The V Cabernet Sau- cassis, streaked with iron filings, and a deep, penetrat- funky evocation of pure Cabernet Sauvignon. The deep, 93 vignon (Columbia Valley). This is the win- ing, dark, chewy finish. —P.G. dense, super ripe berry flavors are framed within a bou- ery’s flagship Cabernet. It’s full-bodied, with classic abv: 14.9% Price: $60 quet of dried herbs, pepper, mineral, astringent tannins, Bing cherry Cabernet fruit as a base flavor; then a wrap- and a crisp mix of earth, wood and plant flavors. Superb ping of toast and broad, astringent tannins. There’s am- Adams Bench 2006 Reckoning (Wash- length and ageability. Cellar Selection. —P.G. ple acidity to lift it a bit, and finishing layers of coffee, 92 ington). This vintage of Reckoning has Mal- abv: 14.3% Price: $70 licorice, smoke, olive and loam. —P.G. bec in the blend (it was subsequently replaced with Cab abv: 14.5% Price: $49 Franc), and a nice streak of herbal/tobacco flavor with Cayuse 2008 Camaspelo Cabernet Sau- aggressive tannins. The (relatively) lower alcohol cuts 95 vignon-Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Good Adams Bench 2006 V Reserve Cabernet the sensation of alcohol burn, and the fruit is charac- concentration, with tight-knit purple and black fruit fla- 93 Sauvignon (Washington). This has lovely teristically dark, sappy, compact and subservient to the vors, a streak of espresso, and the characteristic herb and deep black fruits, with smoke and toast from the dense, grainy tannins. A big wine for big wine lovers. and mineral flavors of the vintage. Very fresh, clean, barrel aging. There’s a streak of caramel and a hint of —P.G. muscular and still compact, with concentrated black- coconut, good balance and length, and less obvious burn abv: 14.4% Price: $34 berry fruit that pops up and broadens out in the fin- and astringency than the more recent vintages. —P.G. ish. —P.G. abv: 14.55% Price: $42 Baer 2008 Ursa (Columbia Valley). Merlot abv: 14.4% Price: $70 92 and Cab Franc are the stars of this five-grape Adams Bench 2008 Reckoning (Colum- Bordeaux-style blend. It begins sweetly, with a pretty Januik 2008 Reserve Red (Columbia Val- 93 bia Valley). This is finished in a dense, dark, mix of ripe berries, spicy toast and dark chocolate. The 95 ley). Januik’s reserve is a blend of 78% Caber- super-saturated style, and aged in two thirds new flavors spread across the palate, adding hints of black net Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. French oak barrels. Grainy, smoky, ripe tannins wrap pepper and sandalwood. Lush, deep, and slightly exot- Sourced from Champoux and Weinbau, just three bar- around deep cassis, black cherry and black olive, with ic, this is a real palate-pleaser. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. rels were made. The fruit is deeply flavored with black occasional whiffs of truffle. For those who love a block- abv: NA Price: $35 cherry and cassis, and the tannins seem darker, earthier, buster style, this wine rocks. Just a little heat in the fin- toastier and overall fuller than any of the other excellent ish. —P.G. Isenhower 2008 Batchelor’s Button Cab- Januik reds. Still young and tight, this promises to blos- abv: 14.9% Price: $39 92 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Some- som over time with floral, earth, barrel and spice high- how the label’s misspelling of Bachelor’s Button slipped lights. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Andrew Will 2008 Ciel du Cheval Vine- by the authorities. Surplus T aside, this is a generous abv: 14.4% Price: $65 93 yard (Red Mountain). Winemaker Chris Ca- wine, whose plummy, peppery fruit is dotted with de- marda is antiformulaic; his wines in 2008 feature rad- tails of herb, spicecake and chocolate. Smooth, velvety L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard ically different blends from the 2007s. This is a third tannins add to the pleasure. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). each Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cab Franc. It abv: 14.3% Price: $29 From the oldest block of the estate’s Seven Hills Vine- reflects the vineyard’s penchant for tart berry fruit set yard, this pure Cabernet opens with intense aromas atop astringent, mineral-driven tannins. It’s tight and Isenhower 2008 Wild Thyme Cabernet of mountain fruit. Bramble, light herb, cement, black dense, with vertical power. Flavors roll gracefully into a 92 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A very pretty cherry and cassis combine in a polished, elegant wine medium-length finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. nose sends up scents of flowers and brambly red fruits. that probes deeply into the palate. Flavors abound— abv: 14.5% Price: $55 The palate is consistent, buoyed by juicy acidity, with complex fruit and flower grace notes. It’s all free-run

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 juice, aged in 100% neutral French oak barrels. Edi- expands into a full-bodied midpalate. There is a lovely Stottle 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse tors’ Choice. —P.G. melding of bramble, berry, underbrush, barrel toast and 91 Heaven Hills). This is pure, Elerding vineyard abv: 14.3% Price: $29 mocha, and a satin-smooth finish. —P.G. Cabernet, done in a spicy, tart, tight style. The fruit is abv: 14.5% Price: $45 absolutely lovely, and the oak treatment (half new) not J. Bookwalter 2008 Conner Lee Vineyard at all intrusive. Young, tight, tart and incredibly com- 92 Conflict Red (Columbia Valley). Saturat- Dusted Valley 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon pact, this lovely expression of Washington Cabernet can ed and velvety as soon as the cork is pulled, this dense, 91 (Walla Walla Valley). Stiff and tannic when be enjoyed now, or cellared for up to a decade. Cellar dark, supple wine is half Cabernet Sauvignon, about first opened (all Dusted Valley wines are screwcap Selection. —P.G. 40% Merlot and the rests Malbec. Sourced entirely sealed), this breathes out into a ripe mix of deep purple abv: 13.8% Price: $30 from the Conner Lee vineyard, it showcases the win- fruits and barrel flavors. Cassis, vanilla, baking choco- ery’s signature style, mixing black fruits, exotic spices, late and other barrel-aged accents (both French and Woodinville Wine Cellars 2008 Double hints of dried herb, and darker streaks of espresso and American oak is used) keep it interesting. —P.G. 91 Vision Red (Columbia Valley). This is half toast. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $30 Syrah and half Cabernet Sauvignon, a popular style in abv: NA Price: $50 Washington. Done well, as it is here, it marries the black Gamache Vintners 2006 Reserve fruits and herbal highlights of the Cab to the earthy, Januik 2008 Champoux Vineyard Cab- 91 ‘Gamache Champoux Vineyard Select’ spicy flavors of Syrah. Still young and almost grapey, it is 92 ernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tradi- finished with ripe, substantial tannins. —P.G. Classic black cherry fruit anchors this Cabernet from tionally a 50/50 blend of old vines from both vineyards, abv: 14.8% Price: $40 the seminal Champoux vineyard. There is also a strong this has benefitted from extra bottle age. Big and some- vein of minerality, etched in herb and hinting at licorice. what blocky, it opens with a mix of inviting aromas— Apex at Alder Ridge 2008 Alder Ridge This is very young and tight, but poised for a long life sage, desert flower, and black cherry. From there it fills 90 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse ahead. Cellar Selection. —P.G. the mouth with tart red fruits and more herbs and blos- Heaven Hills). Young and savory, this cool-climate abv: 14.4% Price: $50 soms, with proportionate tannins. Cellar Selection. Cabernet mixes tart berry fruit with herbal (tarragon) —P.G. highlights. Ageworthy, tight and clean, with darker Waterbrook 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.3% Price: $40 notes of black olive and loam. —P.G. 92 vignon (Columbia Valley). Tight, dark, blue abv: NA Price: $40 and black fruits define this cool-climate Cabernet. It’s J. Bookwalter 2008 Protagonist Red (Co- supple and spicy, with firm but ripe tannins. The fruit 91 lumbia Valley). Half Cabernet Sauvignon, and Balboa 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is concentrated in a tight core, but persistent and reso- half Syrah, this vintage of Protagonist is entirely differ- 90 (Walla Walla Valley). Balboa does an espe- nant into a lengthy finish. Flavors mix mountain berry, ent (in both blend and vineyard sources) from the 2007. cially good job with Cabernet, and this sleek, supple, bramble, wild herb, pencil shavings and peppery spice. Sharp and peppery from the cool vintage Syrah, it intro- fruit-driven example is a fine new addition to the lineup. It needs mroe time, but it has the substance and muscle duces intriguing scents and accents of cayenne and bit- From estate-grown fruit, it packs a mix of blue and pur- to last. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ter chocolate. The herbal flavors are more evident than ple berries into its core, backed with satiny tannins and abv: NA Price: $20 in the other J. Bookwalter releases from 2008, but well a dusting of cocoa. —P.G. blended and balanced. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $24 Adams Bench 2007 Red Willow Vineyard abv: NA Price: $50 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). Has Gamache Vintners 2007 Estate Cabernet a Red Willow Cab ever shown this much dense cassis Januik 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- 90 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). All estate- and black cherry fruit, with such high alcohol, massive, 91 lumbia Valley). Mike Januik calls 2008 the grown Cabernet, this textural, smoky wine weaves its chewy tannins and a very long finish? It’s almost over “most perfect harvest weather” in his 25 years working pristine black currant fruit into a more complex display the top, but then there are the lovely fruits—a riot of in the Columbia Valley. This sleek and beautifully pro- with herbal highlights and a sweet, toasty finish. —P.G. berries and cassis—along with toast and iron, hints of portioned wine has deep black cherry fruit, with smoky abv: 14.6% Price: $28 earth and olive. Cellar Selection. —P.G. espresso flavors and moderately thick tannins. Substan- abv: 14.9% Price: $48 tial yet with appealing purity, it’s a perfect steak wine Goose Ridge 2007 Sol Duc Meritage (Co- and also one to stick in the cellar for a decade or so. 90 lumbia Valley). Two thirds Cabernet Sauvi- Adams Bench 2007 Reckoning (Wash- —P.G. gnon, this Bordeaux blend is the best bottle from Goose 91 ington). This is very dense, with a strong Bour- abv: 14.4% Price: $30 Ridge. The fruit is sappy and strong, with rich, ripe ber- bon barrel flavor component. The fruit is tight, the ry and cassis flavors. Tannins are firm and lightly spiced structure is balanced, and the mouthfeel massive. The L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Pepper Bridge Vine- with fresh herb. The wine has depth and bite, the po- tannins are matched to the density of the fruit, and add 91 yard Apogee (Walla Walla Valley). A Cab- tential to age over the next half decade or more, but it’s both mass and texture, though some tasters will defi- ernet-dominated, Bordeaux-style blend, this peppery drinking well right now. —P.G. nitely notice some burn in the finish. —P.G. red has a complex mix of earth and spice scents around abv: 14.6% Price: $50 abv: 14.6% Price: $34 tart red fruit. Notes of toast and cinnamon, sharp acid- ity, and tannins with residual green tea flavors keep the L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Andrew Will 2008 Sorella (Horse Heav- finish interesting. —P.G. 90 Estate Perigee (Walla Walla Valley). A five- 91 en Hills). This could be labeled Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $50 grape Bordeaux-style blend from old vines, this has fruit Sauvignon, which is 80% of the blend. It’s all old vine that is almost ephemeral. Brambly raspberry fruit and Champoux vineyard fruit, with a beguiling blend of Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2008 Cabernet a mineral-driven core, spiked by citrusy acidity, create herb, bramble, spice, cedar and chocolate. Smooth and 91 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Bright and a penetrating, elegant wine that finishes with a hint of polished, still wound a bit tight, and fairly astringent. spicy, this offers a plump mix of cherry, plum and cas- pickle barrel. —P.G. —P.G. sis fruit, with loads of chocolaty barrel flavors wrapped abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 all around. There is enough acidity to support the fruit and oak, and provide the structure for medium-term ag- Patterson Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sau- Andrew Will 2008 Two Blondes Vineyard ing. —P.G. 90 vignon (Columbia Valley). Behind a Plain 91 (Yakima Valley). Licorice-laden strawberry abv: NA Price: $35 Jane label is a wine with real force. Densely packed with and raspberry fruit anchors a wine that enters softly and kirsch and chocolate flavors, this wine rests on top of

WineMag.com | 69 bright acidity, that seems to punch the fruit down and Canoe Ridge 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Gamache Vintners 2008 Boulder (Colum- into the palate, while setting up the toasty barrel flavors 89 (Columbia Valley). Great structure, depth 88 bia Valley). Tasty, toasty and tart, this table- and taking some of the rough edge off the tannins. De- and polish are the talking points of this wine that re- ready blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, cant it. —P.G. mains stubbornly young, tight and primary, with Bor- 16% Cab Franc, 8% Syrah and 4% Malbec is entirely abv: 14.6% Price: $30 deaux-like herbaceousness. There is plenty of power estate-grown. Aged in three quarters new American and and future potential—if the light, pickle barrel and French oak, it has full-flavored berry fruit and generous Robert Ramsay 2008 Upland Vineyards herbal rawness can be tamed. —P.G. amounts of chocolate and vanilla. —P.G. 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). The abv: 14% Price: $21 abv: 14.8% Price: $18 Upland Vineyards are in the heart of the Snipes Moun- tain AVA, a subregion of the listed Yakima Valley. This Januik 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Caber- Goose Ridge 2007 Vireo (Columbia Val- almost (98%) pure Cabernet has a peppery note, speck- 89 net Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). From 88 ley). Vireo is a Cabernet-Syrah-Merlot blend, led through bright flavors of berries and black currant. relatively high altitude grapes, this is a steely, sharp- made in limited quantities and noticeably riper than There’s a suggestion of moist earth, but the fruit is really edged wine, cut with precise flavors of stone, metal, the winery’s g3 version of the same blend. It’s bigger the star here. —P.G. wild berry and hints of pickle barrel, perhaps from ag- in terms of alcohol and a little riper with raspberry and abv: 14% Price: $38 ing in American oak? It still tastes very young, so cellar cherry fruit, but there is a hint of drying bitterness in the it or decant it. —P.G. tannins. This is a food wine, not a sipping wine. —P.G. Tero Estates 2008 S.T. (Columbia Valley). abv: 14.4% Price: $40 abv: 14.6% Price: $30 90 The initials stand for Super Tuscan, after which this almost 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sparkman 2008 Kingpin Cabernet Sau- L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon models itself. It’s an elegant wine with subtle 89 vignon (Red Mountain). Almost entirely 88 (Columbia Valley). The grapes are sourced power, a mélange of baked plum, fig, raisins, chocolate sourced from Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet, and aged for from older vines located throughout the Columbia Val- and black tea. Good balance and persistence, with plen- 22 months in two thirds new French oak, this powerful ley. This is solid and not flashy, with wild brambly ber- ty of alcohol-driven power. —P.G. wine is loaded with aromas of toast, mocha, nougat, and ries, earth and loam, a streak of woody bark, and overall abv: 14.6% Price: $36 latte—all good, but needing a few more years of bottle a Bordeaux-like character. It was aged 22 months in one age to meld with the deep berry and pretty cassis fruit. third new oak barrels. —P.G. Woodinville Wine Cellars 2008 Indomi- Still finding its way, with green tea flavors in the tannins. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 90 table (Columbia Valley). This is three quar- A good one to lock away for a few years. —P.G. ters Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 13% Caber- abv: 14.7% Price: $56 Sparkman 2008 Stella Mae (Red Moun- net Franc, a big wine, with the sort of rich black fruits 88 tain). Stella Mae is three fifths Cabernet Sauvi- and chewy, muscular tannins that usually come with Sparkman 2008 Ruby Leigh (Red Moun- gnon, with 21% Petit Verdot and 16% Merlot the other skyrocketing levels of alcohol. Surprisingly, this lists at 89 tain). This is 42% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc, main components. Aged in 50% new French Taransaud a moderate 14.2%; it’s also notable for the rich, gener- 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec and 5% Petit barrels, its delicious toasty flavors seem to overpower ous barrel flavors of smoke, coffee and licorice. —P.G. Verdot. The careful blend and great vineyard sources the light fruit flavors of watermelon and strawberry. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 are somewhat obscured by the almost-15% alcohol, and —P.G. some stemmy flavors manage to creep into the finish. abv: 14.7% Price: $42 Adams Bench 2008 Mays Discovery Vine- Herb, barrel spices and rather austere red fruits put the 89 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven emphasis on the Cabernet components. —P.G. Three Rivers 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Hills). Deep black cherry and cassis fruit seems a bit abv: 14.8% Price: $42 88 (Columbia Valley). A hard, tart, tightly overloaded at the moment with bourbon barrel flavors wound Cabernet, with juicy berry flavors at the heart of and alcohol. But there is ample power and density to Three Rivers 2007 Champoux Vineyard the wine. This needs decanting and/or another couple carry the wine, for those who love the blockbuster style. 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven of years in the bottle, but it’s well made and shows some This does not yet have the balance of the Adams Bench Hills). The Champoux vineyard’s classic black cherry real muscle for a Cabernet at this price. —P.G. wines from 2006 and 2007—maybe more time in the fruit is here driven deep into a seam of what can only abv: 14.5% Price: $21 bottle will help smooth it out. —P.G. be described as dense rock. Astringent and dark, with a abv: 14.5% Price: $52 dusty, chalky character, this seam of graphite continues Three Rivers 2008 Champoux Vine- on through the finish. Reminiscent of some medium- 88 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heav- Andrew Will 2008 Champoux Vineyard ripe Bordeaux, this should be drunk with a thick, juicy en Hills). Tasted side by side with the winery’s 2007 89 (Horse Heaven Hills). A complete reversal steak. —P.G. Champoux Cabernet, this shares a stylistic astringency, from 2007, with Cabernet Sauvignon back as the princi- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 but with a bit more forward cherry/berry fruit. Where pal grape. Deep plum and black cherry flavors are driv- the 2007 might be seen as more substantial, the 2008 ing this wine, which opens with a quick burst of juicy Apex 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- is more approachable and ready for near-term enjoy- fruits, swathed in tart, citrusy acids. Though one third 88 bia Valley). This is structured around pretty, ment. —P.G. new French oak was used, there is little evidence of it clean, primary fruit flavors. It’s forward and accessible, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 in the mouth. Perhaps the wine is entering a “dumb” with dusty blueberry and pale black cherry most promi- phase, but it was difficult to get much out of it, even af- nent. Pleasant drinking, though not as concentrated as Trust 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- ter many hours of breathing time. —P.G. the Apex Merlot. —P.G. 88 bia Valley). From widely scattered vineyards abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: NA Price: $30 and AVAs, this nicely aged Cabernet shows fig, black cherry and cassis fruit flavors that lead into darker, Bunchgrass 2008 Triolet (Walla Walla Boomtown 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon earthier tannins. Aged in half new/half neutral French 89 Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc and 88 (Washington). Solid fruit anchors this val- oak, it’s got some peppery highlights as well, then thins Petit Verdot comprise this blend. Berry flavors domi- ue offering. The Cabernet is enhanced with 6% Petit out through the finish. —P.G. nate, with a noticeable streak of smoke and ash running Verdot, creating a fairly tannic wine that is loaded with abv: NA Price: $36 down the spine. It’s a sound and solid effort, though the herbal highlights, along with licorice, clove, vanilla and finish lacks a bit of lift. —P.G. tobacco. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: NA Price: $15 87 (Columbia Valley). A pleasant, though some- what generic Cabernet. Light cherry and berry fruit,

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 firm tannins and the acidity to carry it. There’s an herbal and seems poised for a long life ahead. Cellar Selec- That toasty oak wraps around brambly berries, sweet streak that brings forest floor and moist earth into the tion. —P.G. spice, black cherry and plum pudding flavors. —P.G. finish. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $39 abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Dusted Valley 2008 Cabernet Franc (Co- Three Rivers 2008 Malbec (Columbia Elsom Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 lumbia Valley). For those who love untamed, 90 Valley). Winemaker Holly Turner has a good 85 (Columbia Valley). This Cabernet blend in- unbridled, somewhat rough and raw Cabernet Franc, touch with Malbec, finding the soft fruit core in the cludes about 20% Syrah in the mix, which perhaps con- here’s your wine. It rocks the mouth with a classic mix of midst of the herbal scents and tannins. Plums, bram- tributes to a lack of varietal character. It seems to be in Franc-ly inviting flavors—flower, stem, earth, herb and bleberries and a dusting of licorice keep the wine in- a dumb phase, with no specific aromas and nondescript wild berry. A wonderful jumble. —P.G. teresting on through the smoky, earthy, extended fin- fruit. The finish turns acidic and chalky. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $42 ish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.2% Price: $29 Isenhower 2008 Weinbau Vineyard Road Milbrandt 2008 Traditions Cabernet Sau- 89 Less Traveled Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Apex at Alder Ridge 2008 Alder Ridge 85 vignon (Columbia Valley). This was a cool, Slope). Intended as a Loire Valley-style Cab Franc, 89 Vineyard Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). A acidic vintage, and this has a fairly strong herbal streak, this can’t suppress its roundly fruity core. Cherries and jumble of toasted grain, raspberries, red currants and along with broad flavors of vanilla and tobacco. The herbs, a hint of roasted tomato, plenty of acid and some eucalyptus, it’s tart, spicy, juicy, clear, clean and bright, Cabernet fruit falls a bit short of fully ripe, and the oak pretty baking spices pile on the details. An interesting with expressive raspberry and cranberry fruit. —P.G. treatment does not completely mask the bitterness. wine, though ageability is hard to predict. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40 —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Novelty Hill 2008 Stillwater Creek Vine- Trust 2008 Cabernet Franc (Columbia 89 yard Malbec (Columbia Valley). This Wilridge 2009 Estate Mélange Rouge 87 Valley). A fruity, light take on Cabernet Franc, Washington Malbec captures some of the high-altitude 85 (Columbia Valley). This five grape Bordeaux- this shows melon and strawberry flavors galore. It opens finesse and structure of the better Argentine versions. style blend has a sharp, spicy aroma, a strong suggestion broadly and full across the palate, with pleasing fresh- Bright fruit, tangy acids, firm tannins, and a high-toned of clove. The fruit is quite light and tastes of strawber- ness. Best served lightly chilled, as an opening course profile make this a fine choice for grilled meats. —P.G. ries, but quickly is overtaken by the tannins and the bar- (and not too heavy) red. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28 rel flavors. Drink soon. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $32 abv: 13.7% Price: $29 Stottle 2008 Malbec (Horse Heaven 89 Hills). Pluck a tart berry off a Puget Sound Bridgman 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon GRENACHE hillside and you’ll get this sort of flavor. Not quite fully 84 (Columbia Valley). Watermelon and straw- ripe, but complex and earthy, with peppery spice. For a berry fruit flavors, a bit faint, suggests grapes that were Cayuse 2008 God Only Knows Grenache Malbec it works, bringing a sharpness and focus to the not quite ripe. Perfectly quaffable, with lightly earthy 93 (Walla Walla Valley). Effusively fruity, burst- wine. This could almost pass for a Loire valley red, but flavors and a finishing streak of herb. —P.G. ing with ripe scents and flavors of berries and cherries. for the deep fruitiness. At 12.8% alcohol, it’s quite im- abv: NA Price: $13 There is an interesting underlayer of earthy peat moss, pressive. —P.G. just as an accent. The concentration is exceptional, abv: 12.8% Price: $28 dense and layered and constantly reinventing itself as it CABERNET FRANC rolls through a spicy, herbal finish. —P.G. Olsen Estates 2008 Malbec (Yakima Val- abv: 14.2% Price: $70 88 ley). A fascinating Malbec, with 14% Syrah in Januik 2008 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet the blend, that seems earthy, herbal and tannic at first, 93 Franc (Wahluke Slope). An elegant, supple, Dusted Valley 2009 Grenache (Columbia but then sweeps across the palate with deliciously sweet toasty, very tasty Cabernet Franc from one of the old- 91 Valley). A delicious bottle, focused and deep, blackberry fruit. The berry flavors are pure and per- est vineyards on the Wahluke Slope. Winemaker Mike with plush cherry/berry fruit. It’s crisply defined and fectly ripe, but not yet completely integrated with the Januik carefully sculpts his flavors, running threads of nicely balanced, framing its substantial alcohol with just earthier elements. Give this one some extra bottle age. black cherry, baking chocolate, espresso, loam, sandal- a hint of barrel toast (only about one sixth was aged in —P.G. wood, caramel and coconut through the core of this ex- new oak). —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 ceptional wine. Drink young or cellar and let it evolve— abv: 14.7% Price: $28 it’s a winner either way. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Waterbrook 2008 Malbec (Columbia Val- abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Novelty Hill 2008 Stillwater Creek Vine- 88 ley). Pungent and slightly soapy, quickly mov- 89 yard Grenache (Columbia Valley). Plump ing into sweet and sappy blueberry compote aromas Gamache Vintners 2008 Estate Cabernet and juicy flavors of bramble, red currant and raspberry and flavors. This wine really shines in the nose. Alcohol 91 Franc (Columbia Valley). Pure Cabernet lead into a smooth, satisfying middle with a streak of is posted at a moderate 13.2%, but this wine has more Franc, boasting truly ripe, lovely red and purple ber- caramel running right through it. Excellent flavor and complexity than that would suggest. —P.G. ry fruits, married to peppery highlights. The expected persistence for such a young wine. Just a little thin as abv: 13.2% Price: $30 herbal underbrush is there, but tamed and wrapped in it fades. —P.G. polished tannins with a toasty finish. Fine effort. Edi- abv: 14.6% Price: $28 Balboa 2009 Estate Malbec (Walla Walla tors’ Choice. —P.G. 87 Valley). Firm and detailed, with a mix of very abv: 14.9% Price: $24 tart berry fruit, and earthier notes of stem and soil. The MALBEC tannins have been tamed and the balance is just right Three Rivers 2008 Weinbau Vineyard for a wine that does not try to do too much with the 91 Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Slope). A fine, Gamache Vintners 2007 Estate Malbec minimal ripeness it has. —P.G. sappy, crisply structured Cabernet Franc from one of 90 (Columbia Valley). This was previewed more abv: NA Price: $22 the oldest sites in the Wahluke Slope AVA. There is a than a year ago, and needed the extra time to fill out and wildness to the brambly fruit, laced with peppery herbs show its best. Treated a a pure varietal wine, the Malbec Elsom Cellars 2007 Malbec (Columbia and elevated with bright acids. Everything is in balance, takes well to extended aging in three quarters new oak. 87 Valley). Peppery and bright, this carries tart

WineMag.com | 71 flavors of wild berries and mountain herbs. The pen- up front, wrapped around pretty plum and berry fruit. It rough edges have been softened by aging in neutral oak. etrating peppery character is its most defining attribute. has a round, plump middle, polished tannins and plenty —P.G. —P.G. of initial mouth appeal. Hints of barnyard and green tea abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $36 seep into the finish. The wine improved perceptibly on the second day. —P.G. Elsom Cellars 2008 Malbec (Columbia abv: 15.2% Price: $27 SYRAH 86 Valley). Dark and thick in the mouth, this one- dimensional Malbec has a whiff of barnyard and leather Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2008 Merlot Cayuse 2008 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla around blocky black fruits. —P.G. 90 (Columbia Valley). Smooth as silk, its lush 100 Walla Valley). For full review see page 3. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 fruit seamlessly integrated with generous barrel flavors, this oak-aged, ripe Merlot marries its deep, black cher- Cayuse 2008 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah Milbrandt 2008 The Estates Malbec ry fruit to generous layers of chocolate and caramel. It 98 (Walla Walla Valley). A subtle, complex, ut- 86 (Wahluke Slope). The grape’s fruit flavors spent 24 months in barrel. —P.G. terly distinctive mix of flavors, with opening streaks of of blackberry and black cherry are nicely focused and abv: 14% Price: $35 butter cookie, then mushroom broth, tightly wound rounded, but the vanilla and tobacco components, per- berry fruit, earthy coffee grounds and even darker haps from aggressive oak treatment, bring in a bit of bit- Three Rivers 2007 Champoux Vineyard streaks of espresso and smoke and licorice. It is deeply terness to the tannins. It’s a fight to the finish—fruit or 90 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Quite tart layered with flavors that just keep piling on. Amazing tannin—and too soon to pick a winner. —P.G. and tannic, this wine, though four years old, might have wine. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 come from a much more recent vintage. It’s deep and abv: 14.1% Price: $70 concentrated with raspberry and red currant fruit, racy acidity, thick tannins, and barrel notes of charcoal and Cayuse 2008 Armada Vineyard Syrah MERLOT chocolate. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 97 (Walla Walla Valley). Right out of the chute, abv: 14.7% Price: $39 the garrigue and wild herb flavors are amazing. This is L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Northern Rhône in a glass, but with New World power 93 Estate Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). L’Ecole Waterbrook 2008 Reserve Merlot (Co- behind the fruit. Bright and pungent, a mix of herb and is one of the three partners in the Seven Hills vineyard, 89 lumbia Valley). Though this is pure Merlot, it tart berry and rock. Still youthful, and already packed and sources its grapes from some of the oldest vines. is structured much like a Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows with nuance and flavor. There has never been a Cay- The blend includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% more depth than breadth, with smoky black fruits, plum use vintage that needed to be cellared more than these Cabernet Franc, tight and spicy at first, then opening and black cherry, and a pleasing purity. It finishes with 2008s; this is a 20-year wine. Cellar Selection. —P.G. into a deeply flavored, brambly wine with a vivid mix of a distinct herbal edge, slightly bitter. Can it gain a bit abv: 14.2% Price: $75 berry and stone. Firm tannins anchor it solidly and the of mass with further bottle age? Time will tell. —P.G. overall structure suggests it could age for at least a de- abv: NA Price: $20 Cayuse 2008 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah cade, maybe two. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 97 (Walla Walla Valley). This is the only Cayuse abv: 14.5% Price: $37 Milbrandt 2008 Traditions Merlot (Colum- Syrah that is co-fermented (with 8% Viognier), which 88 bia Valley). This has the assertive vanilla and adds nuances of white flower and floral, though the cit- J. Bookwalter 2008 Foreshadow Merlot tobacco flavors that often come with certain oak treat- rus rind scents override them. In the nose it’s hugely 92 (Columbia Valley). In this cooler vintage, ments; these are friendly, familiar components of many expressive, though still quite tight and compact in the winemaker John Bookwalter has introduced Syrah into inexpensive California bottlings. The difference here mouth; it must be decanted. It’s a three ring circus of a his Merlot blend, along with smaller portions of Bor- is that there is real, substantial fruit at the heart of the wine, with things moving and shaking in all directions. deaux varietals. A complex, satiny wine, spiced with wine—it’s bursting with berries and cherries. —P.G. Mineral, berry, mountain complexity, nuanced herb and herb and eucalyptus highlights, lush black fruits, and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 earth and citrus, all in proportion, and all flowing in the toasty espresso in the finish. —P.G. mouth. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40 Stonecap 2009 Merlot (Columbia Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $70 88 A delicious bottle, that starts with first-rate, es- L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Merlot (Columbia tate-grown fruit—80% Merlot, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cab- Cayuse 2008 En Chamberlin Vineyard 92 Valley). Not your average mid-priced Merlot, ernet Sauvignon. Lots of pretty cherry fruit, wrapped in 96 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A huge wine, fat this complex and well-crafted blend includes 12% Cab- smooth, chocolaty tannins. Best Buy. —P.G. with the characteristic Cayuse funk, and accented with ernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. Young, abv: 13.8% Price: $8 plenty of meaty asphalt. Potent and powerful, burst- sappy red fruits lead into a wine with depth and sub- ing with berries and plums, scented with the aromas of stance, annotated with highlights of citrus and steel. Gamache Vintners 2007 Estate Merlot earth and sweet (not dried) herb, chicken stock and fla- Nuances keep coming on... black cherry, licoriceq and 87 (Columbia Valley). Broadly flavorful when vors that run through the same exotic range. Round and iron filings. A delight. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. first sipped, this turns aggressively oaky in the mouth. full, forward and balanced, drinking well and maybe just abv: 14.5% Price: $25 The liquorous barrel flavors will please some tasters, a bit rounder than its brethren. —P.G. while others will wonder where the fruit went? —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $70 Apex 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Tart abv: 14.5% Price: $24 90 and tannic, with aromas that promise deep black Dusted Valley 2008 Tall Tales Syrah (Wal- fruits touched with smoky earth. A Merlot for Cabernet Bridgman 2008 Merlot (Columbia Val- 93 la Walla Valley). Tall Tales is a new designa- lovers, with a Cab Franc-like streak of coffee around 86 ley). Deep red fruit is at the core of this nice- tion for the winery’s reserve Syrah. It’s unfined, unfil- powerful, dark fruit flavors of berry and cassis. Give this ly balanced, no-frills Merlot. A fine every-day red, with tered and unabashed—a potent, powerful wine which a lot of breathing time, or pop it in the cellar for at least enough muscle to qualify as almost Cabernet-like. teeters on the edge of bitterness. But within its compact five years. Cellar Selection. —P.G. —P.G. and textural body are lively flavors of boysenberry and abv: NA Price: $30 abv: NA Price: $13 coffee grounds, tobacco and vanilla, cola and rock. It pushes deep into the palate and extends into a complex Barrister 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla Val- Rainier Ridge 2009 Merlot (Washington). and long-lasting finish. —P.G. 90 ley). This young wine saw plenty of new oak, 85 Pretty blueberry fruit highlights this clean, abv: NA Price: $53 and those toasty, appealing scents and flavors are right fresh, forward wine with genuine fruit character. Any

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Dusted Valley 2008 Stained Tooth Syrah 100% varietal, and sourced from the excellent Lew- deep color, fine-grained tannins, a sweetly herbal char- 92 (Columbia Valley). The ever-popular Stained is vineyard. The wine displays a nicely balanced mix acter, and great balance throughout. —P.G. Tooth Syrah hits a high water mark this year. It’s dark of earth, herb, citrus, spice and berry. It feels lighter abv: 14.7% Price: $75 and smoky, a complex smorgasbord with earthy, bram- than its 14.6% alcohol, but the flavors persist, finishing bly fruit compote streaked with a rich vein of vanilla. with fine-grained tannins and a streak of coffee/mocha. Wilridge 2009 Tempranillo (Rattlesnake Dense and compelling, it layers in wild, peppery herbal —P.G. 88 Hills). The Sugarloaf vineyard, a new site in the highlights through an extended finish. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.6% Price: $28 western Yakima Valley, is the grape source. This has a —P.G. substantial mouthfeel, a mix of toast and cracker, berry abv: 14.7% Price: $26 Trust 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). In and plum, with a kick of spice in the nose and the fin- 89 this 2008 vintage Trust’s Walla Walla bottling is ish. —P.G. L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Syrah (Columbia Val- 100% Syrah. Soft and toasty, it weaves notes of sandal- abv: 13.7% Price: $19 91 ley). Superbly executed, setting its ripe berry wood and honey muffin around tart berry fruit. Pretty fruit flavors in a tart, citrusy framework. Deep and per- and ripe, with tannins that are buttery smooth. —P.G. Ott & Murphy 2008 Tempranillo (Colum- sistent, it hints at a subtle subtext of composted earth, abv: 14.2% Price: $28 86 bia Valley). Light strawberry fruit is matched but shows no trace of excess from its 15% alcohol. Edi- to barrel notes of cola and caramel. There is more than tors’ Choice. —P.G. Bunchgrass 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Val- a trace of barnyard and earth, and the tannins have a abv: 15% Price: $25 88 ley). The Morrison Lane Vineyard—the oldest tea-like astringency. The fruit seems a bit over-matched. Syrah planting in Walla Walla—is the source of the fruit. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2008 Stillwater Creek Vine- Crisply styled, with pretty raspberry fruit at its core, this abv: 14.2% Price: $16 91 yard Syrah (Columbia Valley). A standout well-balanced effort blends in accent notes of spice and Syrah from the first whiff, which brings smoked meats barrel toast. —P.G. and umami-soaked mushrooms up from the glass. abv: NA Price: $32 OTHER REDS There’s plenty of boysenberry fruit flavor also, and the wine finds a perfect balance among the fruit, acid, earth Stonecap 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Cayuse 2008 Flying Pig (Walla Walla Val- and tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 87 A smooth, berry-licious and most affordable 94 ley). A mass of flavors—mineral, umami, dry abv: 14.4% Price: $28 Washington Syrah. Along with bright berry and plum tannins, spicy fruit—all sublimated to the earthy miner- fruit and accents of anise, cinnamon and clove. The fla- al base. A drier, mineral component is more in evidence Robert Ramsay 2007 Syrah (Horse Heav- vors are pure and fresh, and round out into a smooth than the earthy, composty character of previous years. 91 en Hills). Citrus oil, cherries, clean earth and finish.Best Buy. —P.G. Good acidity, not too much, and precise mountain berry sweet coffee notes configure this well-crafted Syrah abv: 13.7% Price: $8 fruit. Fine-grained tannins carry the wine through the from McKinley Springs vineyard grapes. More flavors finish. —P.G. emerge with time—black olive and pepper, dried herbs Patterson Cellars 2007 Syrah (Columbia abv: NA Price: $75 and sandalwood. Bright and assertive, with precisely de- 86 Valley). Firm and chewy, this pure Syrah has fined tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. plenty of punch (at 14.6% alcohol) but not much de- Den Hoed 2007 Marie’s View (Horse abv: 14.4% Price: $20 tail. A clean, crisp core of tangy berry is framed in large, 93 Heaven Hills). It’s a difficult challenge to dry, somewhat chalky tannins, and finishes with a hit of blend six different grapes into a wine without sacrificing Balboa 2009 Estate Syrah (Walla Walla chocolate. —P.G. focus, but winemaker Rob Newsom has done a splen- 90 Valley). New, eco-friendly minimalist pack- abv: 14.6% Price: $23 did job with this new vintage of Marie’s View. Roughly aging and estate-grown fruit push this distinctive Wal- a third Cabernet and a third Syrah, which provide a po- la Walla Valley Syrah to the front ranks. Juicy, sappy, Trust 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley). A tent core of deep red and black fruits, the wine is nu- tart and tangy boysenberry fruit flavors run through 86 cooler vintage in the Columbia Valley, which anced with layers of spice, leaf, toasted grain, loam and the bright midpalate. Tannins are soft and supple, with perhaps contributes to a wine that seems rather hard coffee grounds. Fine acids promise a long life. Cellar plenty of lemony acidity backing them up. —P.G. and thin. Though the alcohol is listed at 14.2%, the fruit Selection. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $22 is tight and one dimensional, with dominant acidity. The abv: 14.3% Price: $80 wine is sound and balanced, but not showing its best at Januik 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Co- the moment. —P.G. Cadaretta 2008 Windthrow (Columbia 90 lumbia Valley). The Lewis Vineyard is the abv: 14.2% Price: $28 92 Valley). Windthrow is a southern Rhône-style source of many of Washington’s best Syrahs. Januik’s blend of 36% Syrah, 29% Mourvèdre, 18% Counoise version shows both the tightly wound berry flavors and Wilridge 2009 Estate Syrah-Mourvèdre and 17% Grenache. Ripe and nicely focused, it wraps the subtle earth, fungus, game and herb highlights that 85 (Columbia Valley). More than three quar- sleek raspberry fruit in delicate layers of oak, mineral define this vineyard’s fruit. Cellar Selection. —P.G. ters Syrah, this is made from young vines planted in the and acid. Tannins are smooth and subtle; the finish is abv: 14.4% Price: $30 estate vineyard in the extreme western Yakima Valley. like a fine pastry lingering in the back of the mouth. With such new vines it is difficult to point to specific va- —P.G. Stottle 2008 Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). rietal character. It’s tart and lightly fruity, with a pleasant abv: NA Price: $50 90 Pure fruit flavor, from Elerding Vineyard spicy edge. —P.G. grapes, is the driver in all of these Stottle wines, and abv: 13.4% Price: $29 J. Bookwalter 2009 Antithesis (Columbia there is nothing to say but bravo. Taking the pure, vari- 91 Valley). A blend of 56% Cab Franc and 44% etal, berry-driven flavors of the grapes, Winemaker Josh Merlot, this silky-smooth, mouth-coating wine offers Stottlemyer balances his wines with just the right mix TEMPRANILLO lush fruit flavors of plum and strawberry, spicy and soft. of acid, earth and tannin, giving them depth and gravi- Tannins are beautifully ripened. This is drink-worthy tas. But the fruit—sweet and pure—says drink me now. Cayuse 2008 Impulsivo Tempranillo right now, but can be cellared for another half decade. —P.G. 94 (Walla Walla Valley). Saturated in every way, —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 this sappy, spicy, almost surreal Tempranillo piles on the abv: NA Price: $45 wild, gamy fruit, the mineral-infused base, the leaf and Bunchgrass 2008 Syrah (Columbia Val- forest flavors, all around tart berry flavors. Amazingly Olsen Estates 2008 Red (Yakima Valley). 89 ley). This is a pleasing, well-crafted Syrah, 91 A red Rhône-style blend based on Syrah, but

WineMag.com | 73 with small portions of Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache it’s just a big old bowl of raspberry fruit. But the struc- grant highlights of sage, wild berry and wild grape. The and Counoise in the mix, and all estate-grown. This ture is excellent, and the proportion of acid and tannin fruit flavors that follow are pure and ripe, and the bal- wine has a lot going on—deep black fruits, thick streaks gives the wine substance and depth. It spent 20 months ance is excellent, with just the right mix of acid and tan- of composty loam, veins of coffee and licorice, and pen- in a mix of oak, but it seems more neutral than intrusive. nin. —P.G. etrating, fully ripe tannins. The fruit is immaculate, and A fine bottle. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $22 there is plenty of natural acidity to buoy up the heavy abv: 13.8% Price: $24 flavors. A gem. Best Buy. —P.G. Patterson Cellars 2009 Barbera (Colum- abv: 14.2% Price: $15 Waterbrook 2008 Rhône Red (Columbia 87 bia Valley). Barbera grapes from a Lake Chel- 89 Valley). The aromas deliver a bit more com- an vineyard are blended with 25% Sangiovese from the Apex at Alder Ridge 2008 Alder Ridge plexity than the palate at the moment, perhaps just an Yakima Valley. It’s an interesting wine, with pretty straw- 90 Vineyard Ribera Blend (Horse Heaven indication that the wine has entered a tight, rather hard berry fruit, tart acidity and a wall of tannin that cuts it Hills). Inspired by Spanish Tempranillo, this is tannic, phase. Blackberry, black cherry, cherry pit and a bit of short. The components are starkly apparent, but with but with intriguing aromas and complexity. There is im- peach in the fruit mix. This needs more time, but has time may ultimately blend into a more seamless expres- pressive varietal character—notes of lavender, brown good density and dark, polished tannins. —P.G. sion of what seems to be good fruit. —P.G. spices, dried leaf and tobacco, with finishing complex- abv: NA Price: $30 abv: 13.9% Price: $23 ity. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2008 OMO Red Ott & Murphy 2008 Double Bluff (Co- 89 (Columbia Valley). The letters stand for Odd 86 lumbia Valley). This is a Rhône-style blend Isenhower 2008 El Conquistador (Horse Man Out, perhaps a reference to the unusual blend of mostly Grenache and Syrah, with smaller amounts 90 Heaven Hills). This Tempranillo-Mourvè- (two thirds Petit Verdot, one third Malbec). The nose of Viognier and Cinsault. The wine opens with appeal- dre-Syrah blend is smooth and captivating. The cher- promises and the mouth delivers a lot of leathery barn- ing spices, but turns tart and stemmy in the mouth. The ry-flavored fruit sports many herbal highlights, a vanil- yard character; some tasters call it a feature, and some spiced plum fruit flavors compete somewhat unsuccess- la streak, and tannins that bring an impression of soft call it a flaw. Black cherry fruit, thick and chewy tannins, fully with bitter tannins. More bottle age should help. leather. The partial fermentation in French oak brings and alcohol near 15% mark this as a powerful wine. —P.G. interesting chocolatey molé flavors to the back of the Drink soon. —P.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $19 throat. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $36 abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Wilridge 2009 Zweigelt (Columbia Val- Barrister 2009 Kiona Vineyard Sangio- 86 ley). Quite possibly the first and only Washing- Januik 2008 Red (Columbia Valley). For 88 vese (Red Mountain). Tart and a little mono- ton Zweigelt, this has the sort of rough, rustic appeal 90 a wine that is Januik’s low cost red, this is ex- lithic, but pretty enough, with light strawberry and as did Lemberger in the early days of the state’s wine ceptionally deep and detailed. Firm berry and plum cherry fruit flavors. On the second day it broadens out industry. Bright cranberry fruit has a spicy edge, and a and black currant fruits are set into polished tannins. a bit, adding hints of tobacco. Slightly hot in the finish. sharp, high-toned finish. —P.G. There is a frame of dark chocolate and espresso around —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $29 them, sailing into a clean, medium length finish. Edi- abv: 14.9% Price: $28 tors’ Choice. —P.G. Wilridge 2009 Estate Barbera (Columbia abv: 14.4% Price: $18 Januik 2008 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Pe- 85 Valley). Strawberries are the core of the fruit 88 tit Verdot (Red Mountain). A rare, pure, va- here, with plenty of acidity behind. The wine thins out Sparkman 2008 Wilderness Red (Colum- rietal Petit Verdot, from a great Red Mountain vine- quickly in the midpalate, and finishes high-toned and 90 bia Valley). At the moment, this is Sparkman’s yard. Earthy, thick tannins cover sleek red fruits, with lightly fruity. —P.G. most accessible and complete non-Syrah red from the plenty of acidity under to buoy it up. It’s a big, blocky, abv: 13.4% Price: $19 2008 vintage. Broad and open, it offers a palate-pleasing slightly hot wine, that may benefit from further bottle mix of herb, pepper, cherry and graphite. Smooth tan- age. —P.G. Rainier Ridge NV Red Wine (Washing- nins and no trace of alcoholic heat in the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 84 ton). Some noticeable residual sugar, and a abv: 14.7% Price: $28 grapey, unfermented grape juice flavor brands this as Ott & Murphy 2008 Compendium (Co- an easy-drinking “wine with training wheels.” A clean, Goose Ridge 2008 g3 (Columbia Valley). 88 lumbia Valley). A second Rhône-style blend lightly peppery finish. —P.G. 89 This blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sau- from Ott & Murphy, this one based upon Cinsault abv: NA Price: $NA vignon has a spicy start, with dark, tannic, slightly earthy (38%), Syrah (37%) and Mourvèdre (22%) with a splash raspberries and black cherries filling out the mouth. of Viognier. It is the most interesting of the winery’s Wilridge 2009 Estate Nebbiolo (Colum- Streaks of smoke, black olive and coffee come into play 2008 reds, with spiced apples, plums, clove, cumin and 84 bia Valley). A rare Washington Nebbiolo, as it winds into a moderately deep finish. —P.G. other exotic accents, a soft earthiness and medium com- from a recently planted Yakima Valley vineyard, this has abv: 14.2% Price: $18 plexity. —P.G. young vine flavors of berry candy. It’s high-toned and abv: 14.8% Price: $26 slightly volatile, with some heat in the finish. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2008 Royal Slope Red (Co- abv: 13.2% Price: $29 89 lumbia Valley). A difficult wine to analyze, as it Robert Ramsay 2008 McKinley Springs seems to have a compact, muscular power, but remains 88 Mourvèdre (Horse Heaven Hills). At first tightly shut down even after some extended breathing whiff a little high-toned and sharp, this pure, single- time. The blend brings the black fruits and tannins of vineyard Mourvèdre smoothes out in the mouth. The its dominant (59%) Merlot, with a streak of loamy Syrah fruit has young, light flavors of strawberry and raspber- running through the middle. Small percentages of five ry, with a slight suggestion of truffle. Bright acidity hides other grapes complete the blend. —P.G. the influence of the (40%) new oak aging. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $18 abv: 14.2% Price: $42

Stottle 2008 Sangiovese (Horse Heaven Stottle 2008 Blend (Columbia Valley). An 89 Hills). Delicious, sweet scents of perfectly ripe 88 intriguing blend of 62% Sangiovese, 25% Neb- berries rise up from the glass, and it would be easy to say biolo and 13% Barbera, which opens with intensely fra-

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 WineMag.com | 75 SPIRITS Vincent Van Gogh Raspberry (Holland; 88 Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL); 35% CHERRY- AND BERRY-FLAVORED VODKAS abv. $27. Made with raspberries from Germany, this clear vodka has a bright berry lollipop scent and a herry and berry are among the most pop- Bartenders look to flavored vodkas for sweet flavor with an insistent pop of berry flavor up ular flavors offered by vodka makers, as speed and convenience, when labor-intensive front. Best with lots of ice, which smooths out the flavor C cocktailians tend to prefer sweet flavors. fresh-fruit infusions simply aren’t practical, and and coaxes a softer feel. You won’t find these flavored spirits in classic cock- to compensate for out-of-season ingredients. Eristoff Red Sloe Berry (France; Bacar- tail recipes, but they sell very well in bars. A quick However, very few truly mimic the flavor of 87 di USA, Miami, FL); 20% abv, $17/1 L. search yields hundreds of “berry martinis” and the real thing. Dense cherry red color and juicy scent redolent with “chocolate-covered cherry” drinks. But one of the ways flavored vodka might dark raspberries or cherries. An enormous sweet-tart Most of these flavored vodkas aren’t actually outshine the real thing is in aromatics. cherry flavor washes over the tongue, then fades quick- made for sipping straight, which makes them Although vodka is often touted as “colorless and ly. Consider using this spirit to add color and flavor to a martini-style drink. exceedingly hard to evaluate. They’re destined odorless,” the scent counts as much as the taste in for vodka sodas and vodka tonics, the reigning flavored vodkas. Sometimes, more. Stoli Strasberi (Latvia; William Grant & dieter’s drink of the last few years. —Kara Newman 87 Sons, Edison, NJ); 35% abv, $27//1 L. This vodka is all about the aromatics—the bright, bold, juicy strawberry fragrance practically bounces out of Alchemia Wild Cherry Infused Vod- Voli Raspberry Cocoa Fusion (France; the glass. The flavor washes out, except for the pleasant 94 ka (Poland; Domaine Select Wine Es- 90 Palm Bay International, Port Washing- burst of strawberry-vanilla on the finish. But this could tates, New York, NY); 40% abv, $29. An almost ton, NY); 30% abv, $23. For full review see page 10. make for a lovely strawberry-scented spritzer when cordial-like stunner, from the dense deep red color to there won’t be any real berries found at the greenmar- the brandied cherry flavor. Though it’s a trifle boozy, Chambord Flavored Vodka (France; ket. like an eau-de-vie, the syrupy, velvety spirit is surpris- 89 Brown-Forman Beverages, Louisville, ingly luscious. A dark cherry flavor clings to the palate. KY); 37.5% abv, $25. Since the round-ball bottle and Zodiac Black Cherry Vodka (USA; Zo- It wouldn’t be out of place as an after-dinner digestif, its candied-violet-scented, lavender-pink contents so 87 diac Spirits, Richardson, TX); 35% abv, swirled in a snifter with an ice cube or two. How many closely resemble perfume, presumably the ladies are $28. A clear Idaho potato-vodka spirit, with lots of va- vodkas can say that? the target audience. On its own, this vodka, an offshoot nilla in the aroma and flavor, plus a touch of cherry can- Denaka Raspberry Vodka (Canada; Saz- of Chambord liqueur, is viscous and tooth-achingly dy on the finish. 92 erac Company, Chicago, IL); 35% abv, sweet. But mixed and chilled, the ladies will love this $13. The best of the raspberry crop: a clear spirit with in martini’d and carbonated form. Denaka Black Cherry Vodka (Canada; a light, sugared scent and a fleeting juiciness that winds 86 Sazerac Company, Chicago, IL); 35% into a nicely mouthwatering, fruity finish. Silky texture. Pur Geist Sloe Berry Flavored Vodka abv, $13. The scent of this clear vodka is intensely sug- Good value, too 89 (Germany; Germany; Braverman LLC, ary, to the point where it might be mistaken for rum. San Francisco, CA) 40% abv, $41. Intriguingly The flavor is sweet as well with an intensely almond Vincent Van Gogh Black Cherry (Hol- complex, with earthy, cedar-like aromas and muted cherry-pit finish. Best served very, very cold. 92 land; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL); herbal flavors of mint, eucalyptus and rosemary. Al- 35% abv, $27. A small-batch vodka from master dis- though the flavor doesn’t read as fruity, it’s very nice Stoli Razberi (Latvia; William Grant & tiller Tim Vos, this pretty pink spirit with a mild cherry- nevertheless, with a soft, velvety texture. No additives 86 Sons, Edison, NJ) 37.5% abv, $27/1 L. almond scent is surprisingly big and sweet on the pal- or flavoring agents. Clear, with a mild raspberry scent. At first it has a great ate, with a touch of bitterness. Ice transforms this spirit, true-berry taste, but unfortunately it gets crowded out though, erasing the bitterness and coaxing out violet Skyy Infusions All Natural Cherry (USA; by a lingering bitterness. Best served tall, with lots of notes. Shake it with ice, strain it into a coupe glass with 89 Skyy Spirits, San Francisco, CA); 35% ice and a splash of juice. brandied cherries and call it a Vodka Aviation. abv, $18. Craving cherry candy? Here it is, in liquid form. The clear spirit has a perky, assertive Charms lol- Little Black Dress Vodka Black Cher- Skyy Infusions All Natural Raspberry lipop scent. Although it reads as ersatz and a touch bit- 86 ry Vanilla (USA; Brown Forman Bever- 91 (USA; Skyy Spirits, San Francisco, CA); ter at first, the flavor rounds out on the finish to be -lol ages, Louisville, KY); 32.5% abv, $15. This clear 35% abv, $18. Warm, sweet, candy-like scent. On lipop bright. spirit has a lovely, delicate cherry blossom scent with a the palate, this clear spirit shows a flare of alcohol up hint of vanilla. But there’s none of the delicacy on the front, fading into sweetness and a lingering, pleasant Little Black Dress Vodka Blueberry tongue—it’s a wallop of sweetness. Diluted with grape- raspberry finish. A good match for vodka tonics and 88 Pomegranate (USA; Brown-Forman fruit juice or a bitter liqueur to temper the sweetness, it vodka sodas. Beverages, Louisville, KY), 32.5% abv, $15. Look might regain its equilibrium. for a juicy grape lollipop scent and flavor, with a gen- Effen Black Cherry Vodka (Holland; Jim tle effervescent feel. This spirit would blend seamlessly Stoli Blueberi (Latvia; William Grant & 90 Beam, Frankfort, KY); 37.5% abv, $30. A into a fruity martini-style drink. 85 Sons, Edison, NJ); 37.5% abv, $27/1 L. vodka with finesse and elegance, from the light, sweet Warm, intense aroma, somewhere between ripe plums cherry scent to the restrained cherry-vanilla flavor to Vincent Van Gogh Acai-Blueberry (Hol- and candy. When sipped straight, this vodka has an the smooth feel. Best with ice. Clean, striking bottle 88 land; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL); overwhelming, medicinal bitterness. Yet with lots of design. 35% abv, $27. A very grapey vodka, with a grape lime and sugar, such as in a blueberry-flavored caip- soda-like purple color and scent, and intensely juicy, iroska, that fades away completely and the aromatics grape-berry flavor lifted by a lightly effervescent feel take center stage. on the tongue and a touch of violet on the finish.

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Eristoff Black Wild Berry (France; Ba- 84 cardi USA, Miami, FL); 20% abv, $17/ 1 L. Sinister inky black, this spirit’s claim to fame is that it stains your tongue black. It has a sweet but ersatz blackberry-blueberry aroma and flavor, like an energy drink. At 40 proof, it’s not overly alcoholic, but even di- luted it’s still a scary, murky black—which might be an asset for Halloween party punches.

Rokk Raspberry (Sweden; Diageo, Nor- 84 walk, CT); 35% abv, $13. Fruity, jammy scent. If only the taste mirrored the luscious aroma. In- stead it’s sweet, then a wash of bitterness, which comes through even with significant dilution.

WineMag.com | 77 BEER Full Sail Elevation Imperial IPA Brew- 91 master Reserve 2011 (American Double/ IMPERIAL IPAS: CHILLY WEATHER’S BEST FRIEND Imperial IPA; Full Sail Brewing, OR); 7.5% abv, ith fall in full swing, drinking often one-dimensional or bland flavors of the $5/22 oz. Despite the fact that this is a DIPA, it could certainly help convert non-hop believers with its fresh preferences often trend towards more bird. Compared to regular IPAs, the higher hop character and juicy tones of peach, apricot and W robust and full-flavored selections alcohol content, richer mouthfeel and amped- orange supremes. Assertive carbonation keeps things than those we typically enjoy during the up flavor profiles found in Imperial or Double bright in the mouth alongside a burst of citrus juiciness, summer. The holidays are around the corner, IPAs all complement the traditional American but the flavors are full and satisfying with a remarkably family and friends will be gathering, so it’s best fare, as well as promising a lively dinner table balanced finish of fresh hops and soft bitterness. to be prepared with a fridge stocked full of conversation. Smuttynose Big A IPA (American Dou- chilly weather’s best friend: Imperial IPAs. For those who might not be pronounced 90 ble/Imperial IPA; Smuttynose Brewing Imperial IPAs are perfect for the season. hopheads, non-Imperial IPAs offer the same, Co., NH); 9.74% abv, $11/12 oz 4 pack. At almost They lend themselves wonderfully to albeit dialed-down, earthy spice and moderate 10% abv, this is a seriously strong beer that shows its Thanksgiving fare, especially turkey; they astringency, so be sure to have both on hand strength on the close with a slightly boozy finish. The nose and mouth, however, are to die for if you’re a fan offer assertive earthy flavors of rich hops and to satisfy all of your guest’s lupulin preferences. of hops, as there are ridiculously strong notes of pine resiny or piney spice, all of which boost the Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo resin, grapefruit pith and pressed-petal florals through- out. Toasted grain and a touch of caramel malt sweet- ness provide the backbone to the full mouth, but the DOUBLE/IMPERIAL IPA “The Alpha Collection,” a 12-bottle variety pack of bitterness eventually prevails and continues to reign hoppy beers from Flying Dog that also includes the after swallow. Avery Dictator Series The Maharaja Im- Doggie Style Classic Pale Ale, Snake Dog IPA and 94 perial India Pale Ale Batch No. 13 (Amer- Raging Bitch Belgian-Style IPA. The hoppiest out of ican Double/Imperial IPA; Avery Brewing Co., the bunch, this single-hop stunner showcases notes of INDIA PALE ALE CO); 10.54% abv; $9/22 oz. The Maharaja Batch pine, grapefruit and orange peel that integrate master- No. 13 is one serious beer with an intense nose of thick fully with sweeter accents of honey, caramel malt and Karl Strauss Blackball Belgian-Style IPA citrus oil, mango and peach accented by hints of nec- toasted grain. The finish is definitely bitter, but appro- 92 (Belgian IPA; Karl Strauss Brewing Com- tarine pit and sweet resiny pine. It’s a constant back and priately so, with a touch of lingering warmth. pany, CA); 8.5% abv; $NA/22 oz. This IPA pours a forth between the rich caramel malt and toffee-like fla- bright orange-gold color with a significant frothy white vors and the strongly astringent hop core, but it all bal- Founders Double Trouble Imperial IPA head that lingers. Fresh stone fruit and floral hops im- ances out into one complex beer. Lush and creamy in 92 (American Double/Imperial IPA; Found- mediately waft out of the glass, while secondary notes the mouth, the high alcohol is in balance and the finish ers Brewing Co., MI); 9.4% abv, $11/12 oz 4 of whole green peppercorns and faint sweet spice are is long and lingering. Overall, this is an intense, robust pack. Another beauty from Founders, Double Trouble discovered upon deeper nosing. The mouth is big and and masterfully crafted full-flavored beer that doesn’t pours a golden orange color with glimmers of radiance full but with all elements in check as the juicy fruit go too far over the top. in the light. This big beer is loaded with fresh stone character mingles seamlessly with the fresh hop flavor fruit scents of peach and apricot alongside the strong and yeasty spice. Delicious and very drinkable. Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA (American citrus hop notes. Fresh bread dough and malt provide a 93 Double/Imperial IPA; Dogfish Head Craft solid core to the mouth, balancing out the bitter orange BrewDog Punk IPA (American-style IPA; Brewery, DE); 9.0% abv; $12/12 oz 4 pack. Per- pith and piney hop characteristics on the palate. Bal- 91 BrewDog, UK); 6.0% abv, $NA/12 oz 6 haps one of the best-known American DIPAs today, anced and remarkably drinkable for the high alcohol. pack. This IPA is remarkably smooth and balanced, Dogfish knows how to do it right for serious hopheads with attractive aromas of fresh hop, orange rind and looking for a strong, astringent kick. Dark stone fruit Ninkasi Tricerahops Double IPA (Ameri- pretzel-like malt. Pine-driven spice and grapefruit and fig add depth to the otherwise hop-dominated 92 can Double/Imperial IPA; Ninkasi Brew- citrus lead the medium-weight mouth, with a good nose, while resin and pine flood the full-bodied and ing, OR); 8.8% abv, $6/22 oz. An intense and well- amount of drying astringency lingering on the close round mouth. It’s balanced for what it is, though there balanced brew with strong hop-driven notes of grape- alongside flavors of toasted biscuit and peach pit. is an impression of aged Sherry on the finish with a fruit rind and pressed pine needles against a backdrop touch of rancio and toasted walnut-infused warmth. of caramel malt and fresh-baked bread. The full-bod- Ninkasi Total Domination IPA (American ied and round mouth is quite bitter and astringent, 90 IPA; Ninkasi Brewing, OR); 6.7% abv, Victory Yakima Glory Ale (Imperial Dark with powerful resiny hop flavors along with a touch $4/22 oz. Pours a golden orange color with a seri- 93 IPA; Victory Brewing, PA); 8.7% abv, of woody spice and more citrus pithiness. Definitely a ous head that lingers. The nose isn’t as assertive as one $10/12 oz 6 pack. This self-described “Dark IPA” is good choice for those who like a strong hop kick. might expect from the name, but scents of grapefruit, an interesting but quite delicious beer from Pennsylva- husky grain, walnut skin and a touch of graham cracker nia’s Victory Brewing. It pours a light mahogany color Uinta Crooked Line Detour Double India can all be found in the bouquet. The mouth, however, with a nice tan head, and immediate scents of roasted 92 Pale Ale (American Double/Imperial IPA; provides a rich experience with a full body and intense malt, walnut, dried date and a touch of caramel along Uinta Brewing, UT); 9.5% abv, $9/750 ml. Pine flavors of toffee, bread dough and resiny spice that per- with woody spice hit you on the nose. The mouth takes resin and grapefruit pith dominate the bouquet for sists long after swallow. on more of the same rich, roasty characters, with a sure, but a second deep nosing can uncover soft notes touch of cocoa powder and hop pollen unfolding on the of dried apricot and fresh caramel squares in the back- Four in Hand IPA (American IPA; World finish. Balanced and clean, this different brew is defi- ground. Clean and balanced in the mouth, it’s full-bod- 86 Brews, NY); 6.3% abv, $7/12 oz 6 pack. nitely worth a try. ied and assertive but balanced between the hop and Mild but approachable, this is a nicely balanced IPA malt characters. A touch of green peppercorn jazzes up for those looking for a good entry point to the catego- Flying Dog Imperial IPA Simcoe Single the finish, showing great evolution from toasty grain to ry. Citrus and soft spice abound on the nose, while the 92 Hop (American Double/Imperial IPA; spice and finally to piney hop bitterness. mouth shows more toasted malt sweetness and pine- Flying Dog Brewery, MD); 10% abv, $23/12 bot- driven hop flavor on the close. tle variety pack. This brew can be found as part of

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011