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Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2009 Wine BUYING GUIDE NOVEMBER 2011 The cellars of Penfold’s Magill Estate in South Aus- tralia hold an impressive library of back vintages. 44 SPAIN 2 AUSTRALIA 49 CALIFORNIA 19 ARGENTINA 66 WASHINGTON 26 SOUTH AFRICA 76 SPIRITS 30 FRANCE 78 BEER 33 ITALY FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 35 PORTUGAL BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM © MICK ROCK AUSTRALIA ICONS AND EMBLEMS, WITH PLENTY OF CHOICES IN BETWEEN Penfolds’ Grange is arguably Australia’s most lauded wine. Yellow Tail is ar- gnon Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River; 90 points, $18) and Penfolds’ 2008 guably its most successful. One often sells for $500 or more, the other often Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (South Australia; 91 points, $36). sells for $10 or less. The 2006 Grange is reviewed this month, as is Yellow These are not cheap-and-cheerful whites or palate-staining reds, just ex- Tail’s Bubbles Sparkling Wine. In many ways, neither is truly representa- cellent wines at relatively affordable prices. tive of their genre; they inhabit vastly different habitats along the spectrum Similar values abound throughout this bountiful midsection of the of Australian wines, deflecting attention from many of the deserving wines Australian wine scene, and you’ll find dozens more inside: top- scoring that fall somewhere in the middle class. Cabernets from Margaret River, Shiraz from Barossa and McLaren Vale, Yet it is precisely those middle-class Australian wines that deserve the even two very good sparkling wines from unexpected sources—Padtha- most attention from buyers. Some are unique regional expressions of par- way and Clare Valley. ticular grape varieties, like Clare Valley Riesling or Hunter Valley Semi- Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, we take another look at the llon. Others are classic regional blends, like Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc unending flows of wine streaming north from Argentina and South from Margaret River or Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon from South Austra- Africa, assorted wines from Bordeaux and Italy, fine table wines from lia. Many offer outsanding quality for the price. the Iberian Peninsula and the latest releases from California and Wash- This issue of the Buying Guide includes numerous examples of exact- ington. And if you’re thirsty for still more reviews, you can find all of our ly these sorts of wines, from Jim Barry’s 2010 The Lodge Hill Dry Ries- more than 105,000 wine ratings and reviews online and free of charge at ling (Clare Valley; 90 points, $18) and Brokenwood’s 2007 Oakey Creek buyingguide.wine.com. Semillon (Hunter Valley; 92 points, $32) to Cape Mentelle’s 2010 Sauvi- Cheers! —JOE CZERWINSKI AUSTRALIAN WHITES SEMILLON WHITE BLENDS RIESLING Brokenwood 2007 Oakey Creek Semillon Cullen 2009 Ephraim Clarke Sauvignon 92 (Hunter Valley). For full review see page 5. 91 Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River). This Jim Barry 2010 The Lodge Hill Dry Ries- wine seems a bit sweaty at first, but with a little aeration 90 ling (Clare Valley). Quintessential young Brokenwood 2006 ILR Reserve Vineyard it becomes more toasty and citrusy. Hints of honey and Clare Riesling, with lime sherbet aromas and flavors 90 Selection Semillon (Hunter Valley). For tangerine mark the palate, but with its modest alcohol and a delicate thread of talclike minerality running full review see page 7. and crisp acidity, it never seems heavy at all. Try as an through it. It’s light to medium in body, very clean, fresh apéritif or with seafood. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. and zesty on the finish. Drink now, or hold 5-7 years to Keith Tulloch 2007 Semillon (Hunter Val- abv: 11.5% Price: $35 allow a more evolved, toasty character to emerge. Ne- 89 ley). A typical expression of Hunter Valley gociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Semillon, with modest alcohol and crisp acids. Struck Cape Mentelle 2010 Sauvignon Blanc- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 flint and lime custard mark the nose, while the flavors 90 Semillon (Margaret River). Mouthfilling suggest the dust of crushed stones and citrus. Drink and round, filled with ripe pineapple and passion fruit Pewsey Vale 2010 Individual Vineyard now–2017. USA Wine Imports. —J.C. flavors. There are some sweaty and mealy notes bal- 90 Selection Dry Riesling (Eden Valley). abv: 11% Price: $NA anced by hints of stone fruit, which all act to build com- Hints at honey, apple and citrus on the nose, then deliv- plexity and interest. Potent and long on the finish. Drink ers all of those notes minus the implied sweetness and Margan 2009 Semillon (Hunter Valley). now. Moët Hennessy USA. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. coupled with high acid levels. Although this is in a nice 88 With a flinty edge to its lemon-lime aromas abv: 13% Price: $18 place now as an apéritif or with oysters, it should hold and an indescribable stone-dust component to its fla- nicely for at least 5–7 years, adding richness and versa- vors, this is an intriguing medium-bodied Semillon that Hungerford Hill 2010 Fishcage Semillon- tility as it ages. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. finishes with laser-like precision. Drink now–2020, by 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Hunter Valley). Most —J.C. which time it will have developed honey and toast char- Hunter Valley Semillons are unblended, but this one abv: 12.5% Price: $17 acters. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. adds Sauvignon Blanc for increased aromatics. It’s lem- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 ony and fresh, with some leafy notes on the nose, then Frisk 2010 Prickly Riesling (Victoria). For crisp and citrusy without being severe on the palate. 86 full review see page 13. Brokenwood 2010 Semillon (Hunter Val- The mouthwatering finish lingers nicely. Hunter Valley 87 ley). Brokenwood’s entry-level Semillon is al- Fine Wines, Inc. —J.C. Wakefield Estate 2010 Riesling (Clare ways a reliable introduction to the Hunter Valley style. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 86 Valley). Light and crisp, with a perfumed bou- Crisp, zingy citrus fruit and light body make it a fine quet of baby powder and lime blossom. Simple green accompaniment to raw oysters or other shellfish when James Oatley 2009 Tic Tok Sauvignon apple and lime flavors carry a tart edge through the fin- young. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 87 Blanc-Semillon (Western Australia). This ish. American Wine Distributors. —J.C. abv: 12% Price: $20 is a plump, slightly creamy-textured blend of approxi- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 mately 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon. Lime, melon and white pepper notes mark the nose and pal- Continued on Page 15 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Cayuse 2008 Bionic Frog Syrah (Wal- Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Franc (Napa Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul la Walla Valley). Initially a rather subdued Valley). A rare Cabernet Franc from Merry- Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Reviewer Virginie Boone 100 95 in Santa Rosa. Frog; as if it has been tamed down. Then, suddenly, vale, and a spectacular one. They’ve handled this finicky If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s There’s a plush core of blackberry fruit, and the classic variety just right, although surely the addition of some initials appear following the note. When no initials appear Cayuse funkiness is there, drenched in liquid rocks and Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec adds weight and tone. following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or cured meat and drying tannins. It’s all in proportion and The wine is dry, richly tannic and enormously flavorful, more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are a fine reflection of the steely vintage. As it opens grace- offering waves of cherries, red currants, red licorice, by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. fully you discover that it is a stunningly refined Frog, cola, sweet cedar wood and even savory hints of bacon. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, quite possibly the best ever; powerful and distinctive, A tremendous Cabernet Franc that will stand as a de- its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by but also elegant, feminine. —P.G. finitive version in California. —S.H. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.4% Price: $80 abv: 14.9% Price: $90 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Moone-Tsai 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended.
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