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The Best of Ethiopia The Best of Ethiopia Naturetrek Tour Report 20 October - 5 November 2013 Lammergeier with bone Ethiopian Wolf Gelada Baboon Black-winged Red Bishop Report compiled by Andy Smith Images courtesy of Robert Davidson Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Best of Ethiopia Tour Leader: Andy Smith Naturetrek Naturalist Mehiret Ewnetu Local Guide Participants: Jean Johnson Colin Johnson David Allison Helen Durndell Alan Durndell Karami Ure Alan Ure Claire Edey Robert Davidson Stella Aquilina Bob Aquilina Day 1 Sunday 20th October We arrived at Addis Ababa airport on time in the early morning. Thick-billed Ravens and a Tawny Eagle were our first birds as we emerged from the airport buildings and a short drive took us to a city centre hotel where breakfast awaited us. A brief exploration of the surrounding gardens provided a nice little introduction to some common highland birds including Tacazze Sunbird, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Montane White-eye, Baglafecht Weaver, Speckled Mousebird and Mountain Thrush. Hooded Vultures cruised incongruously around the nearby rooftops and a pair of Lanner Falcons close overhead added a further exciting touch. From the hotel it was straight back to the airport to check-in for our noon flight up to Bahar Dar. All went well and we had a calm flight with spectacular views of the well farmed Ethiopian highlands below us. Pied Wheatear, Rock Martin and Striped Kingfisher were the first birds here as we emerged from our second airport of the day and a brief bus ride took us to our hotel on the shore of Lake Tana. Lunch ensued and then after a short break we drove to a viewpoint on the edge of town to see the start of the mighty Blue Nile before finishing the day with walk along the lake shore by the hotel. Birds seen along the way included Long-crested and African Fish Eagles, a Black Crake, two Eastern Grey Plantain-eaters, a pair of Silvery-cheeked Hornbills, several displaying Yellow-crowned Bishops and a Pied Kingfisher trying to eat a fish far too big for it. Day 2 Monday 21st October Double-toothed Barbets, Black-winged Lovebirds and a Grey Woodpecker around the hotel at breakfast time made for a good start before we headed off in our bus towards Tiss Abay and the Blue Nile Falls. We made a number of stops along the way including by the town dump which was alive with vultures and Marabous and by some wet meadows where Yellow-mantled Widows, Yellow-crowned Bishops and stunning Black-winged Red Bishops were all busy displaying. © Naturetrek April 14 1 The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report From the old Portuguese bridge at Alata just beyond Tiss Abay a pleasant stroll through an area of low, rocky hills with agricultural clearings took us to the falls themselves. They presented a suitably spectacular vista and along the way we enjoyed some interesting human encounters (women carrying wood, men herding cattle and goats, teams of pack donkeys etc.) and saw a good range of birds including Banded and Black-billed Barbets, Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Red-billed Oxpecker and Half-collared Kingfisher. After lunch back at Bahar Dar we took a boat trip out on the lake. Our first stop was by an uninhabited wooded island with a busy little African Darter colony and some mighty Water Monitors. Next we continued on to an isolated peninsula where we visited a Coptic monastery with some remarkable 16th century frescoes. Yellow- fronted Parrots and Grivet Monkeys added wildlife interest here. White-winged Terns hawked over the lake as we headed back at the end of the afternoon and some Pink-backed Pelicans, two Open-billed Storks and a distant flock of Black-crowned Cranes at the Blue Nile exit at sunset finished the day for us in grand style. Day 3 Tuesday 22nd October Nubian Woodpeckers, an Abyssinian Boubou and a Ruppell’s Robin Chat were among our early birds today before we left Bahar Dar. A full morning’s drive through some diverse habitats produced a wide range of birds. Among the highlights were Common and Black-crowned Cranes, Pallid Harrier, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Hemprich’s Hornbill, Spur-winged Plover, Erlanger’s Lark, Wire-tailed Swallow, Red-breasted Wheatear and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting. We reached Gonder at the end of the morning and after lunch and a short break at our comfortable hotel we headed out to explore the historic sites of the town. An authoritative tour with a local guide who really did know all the answers took us to the royal compound with its various castles and then on to a church with some wonderful frescoes. Thundery rain further enlivened the afternoon and some birds along the way included White-collared Pigeons, Black-billed Wood-hoopoes, Mocking Cliff Chats, Slender-billed Starlings and Abyssinian Orioles. Our last stop was at the atmospheric “Swimming Pool” where Bruce’s Green Pigeons fed in a fig tree and a Greyish Eagle Owl watched us warily from a window sill on the building. Day 4 Wednesday 23rd October After breakfast and a little early morning birding around the grounds of the hotel which produced great views of Tawny Eagles leaving their roosts and a very vocal pair of Hemprich’s Hornbills, we left Gonder and continued our journey. Our first stop was at a viewpoint near the village of Kossoye which gave us a panoramic view of the spectacular scenery plus sightings of Lammergeyer, Augur Buzzard, Grey Hornbill, Black Saw-wing and Little Rock Thrush. A little after the town of Dabat we stopped again to watch a group of Ground Hornbills, one of which caught and despatched a small snake, and then at the end of the morning we reached Debark where we collected a local guide and two armed scouts and headed up into the Simien Mountains National Park. A huge funeral procession on the edge of town with hundreds of people filing down the road draped in white shawls presented an impressive sight and as we progressed we noted increasing numbers of people on horseback (a colourful feature of the Ethiopian highlands) and new birds such as Moorland Chat and Abyssinian Black Wheatear. At the end of the morning we duly arrived at the Simien Mountains Lodge and settled in prior to lunch. 2 © Naturetrek April 14 The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report An afternoon exploration along the utterly spectacular escarpment edge brought us some fantastic encounters with a couple of large troops of Geladas. The first were out grazing and typically confiding, allowed a very close approach. They were great to watch: big males, females, youngsters and babies; sitting and grazing, grooming each other and playing. The whole scene, with this large group of animals spread out cross the cliff-top grassland in the shifting mist, was wonderfully serene, with just some low level chatter and the occasional squawk from scolded babies – marvellous! The second big troop some time later and some way further along the escarpment edge were settling down for the night. Most were among the rocks just over the edge (a bedroom with a view) but some were still out on the cliff top including a big male who was chasing around seeing off a group of young bachelors. The action was noisy and fast but there was little physical contact involved; it was mostly gesture and bravado with much flashing of gums and teeth. A few birds to complete this enjoyable outing included some Wattled Ibis and Ruppell’s Griffons, an adult Verraux’s Eagle and several Groundscraper Thrushes, whilst a last bit of excitement came in the form of a neat Little Klipspringer making its way through the scrub. Day 5 Thursday 24th October It was a lovely still, clear, cold morning and as soon as we could we set off in the bus to explore further. Our first stop was with yesterday evening’s Gelada troop. They numbered about 300 animals and it was fantastic and wonderful to sit among them in the early morning sun as they made their way foraging across the grass through the scattered heather trees. Once again we witnessed a wide range of behaviour and social interactions including grooming, feeding, lip-flipping, babies playing, males squabbling and chasing etc. – lovely. Birds here included Slaty Flycatcher, Thekla Larks, Groundscrapers, Long-billed Pipit and Yellow-crowned Canary, with Nyanza Swifts, Barn Swallows and Crag Martins cruising around overhead. Next stop was at Sankaber Camp where we walked along the escarpment edge, enjoyed the scenery and saw a couple of smart Erckel’s Francolins, a perched Verraux’s Eagle, an Augur Buzzard soaring very close just below us and a subtle but special Stripe-breasted Seedeater. Our last stop of the morning was at the Jinbar waterfall, a lovely area of open forest and meadowland and the falls themselves, spectacular indeed and set amongst the most awesome of scenery. In the woodland we enjoyed great views of Abyssinian Catbirds, White-backed Tits and Brown Woodland Warbler whilst at the falls viewpoint we found some White-billed Starlings and had a pair of Lanners soaring around in the abyss below then rising up and cruising past us at eye-level and arm’s reach – wow! We ate our picnic lunch out on the meadows with a pair of Thick-billed Ravens for company then began the drive back. Most opted to walk the last three kilometres to the lodge but we got caught in a truly spectacular thunder storm; torrential rain and hail had us soaked in minutes and the ground running with water and covered in a thick layer of hail.
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