IS 673 (1987): Cloth, Woollen, Twill, Dyed [TXD 4: Wool and Wool Products]
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
इंटरनेट मानक Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. “जान का अधकार, जी का अधकार” “परा को छोड न 5 तरफ” Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan Jawaharlal Nehru “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New” IS 673 (1987): Cloth, Woollen, Twill, Dyed [TXD 4: Wool and Wool Products] “ान $ एक न भारत का नमण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge” “ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी चराया नह जा सकताह ै”ै Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen” IS:673 -1987 Indian Standard SPECIFICATION FOR CLOTH,WOOLLEN, TWILL, DYED ( Third Revision ) Wool and Wool Products Sectional Committee, TDC 4 Chairman Representing SHRI UPENDRA M. PATEL Shri Dinesh Mills Ltd. Vadodara Members SHRI J. V. S. ANJANBYULU Textiles Committee, Bombay SHRI P. K. MONDAL ( Alternate ) SHRI A. T. BASAK Directorate General of Supplies & Disposals ( Inspection Wing ), New Delhi SHRI D. K. NANDY ( Alternate ) SHRI G. N. CHATTERIEE Ministry of Defence ( R&D ) SHRI S. N. HALDAR ( Alternate ) DR S. K. CHAUDHURI International Wool Secretariat, Bombay SHRI A. BARMAN ROY ( Alternate ) SMT ANITA CHAUDHARY Dire$drate of Marketing & Inspection, Farida- DR G. GOPALA RAO ( Alternate ) SHRI A. N. CHOUDHARY Jaya Shree Textiles, Rishra SHRI K. GOPINATH ( Alternate ) DIRECTOR Wool Research Association, Thane SMT G. P. RANE ( Alternate ) LT-COL A. N. GOSWAMI Ministry of Defence ( DGI ) DR R. K. SAXENA ( Alternate ) SHRI N. GO~WAMI Directorate of Industries, Government of Haryana, Chandigarh SHRI J. S. GREWAL Directorate of Industries. Government of Puniab.- . Chaodigarh SHRI R. C. VASUDEVA( Alternate ) SHRI N. P. GUPTA Central Sheep & Wool Research Institute, Avikanagar SHRI THOMASKOSHY GRASIM Industries Ltd, Nagda SHRI V. N. SRINIVASAN( Alternate ) SHRI K. C. MEHRA VXL India Ltd. OCM Woolien Mills, Amritsar SHRI S. MITRA British India Corporation Ltd, Kanpur ( Continued on page 2 ) @I Copyright 1988 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS This publication is protected under the Indian Copyright Act (XIV of 1957) and re- production in whole or in part by any means except withwritten permission of the publisher shall be deemed to be an infringement of copyright under the said Act. IS:673-1987 ( Continued from page 1 ) Members Representing MAJ H. 0. NANDA( RETD) E. Sefton & Co Pvt Ltd, Mirzapur SMT NEENA RAJAN Wool & Woollens Export Promotion Council, New Delhi DR G. S. SINGH Raymond Woollen Mills Ltd. Thane SHRI J. K. BANERJEE ( Alternate ) SHRI M. V. SIVANANDA Directorate of Industries, Government of Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow SHRI S. P. DHAUDIYAL ( Alternate ) )R T. V. K. SRIVASTAVA Office of the Textile Commissioner, Bombay SHRI J. C. HANSDAK ( Alternate ) ’ &RI S. N. TOSHNIWAL Government of Rajashthan, Jaipur SHRI R. I. MIDHA, Director General, BIS ( Ex-oficio Member ) Director ( Tex ) Secretary SHRI A. R. BANERJEE Joint Director ( Tex ), BIS Wool Products Subcommittee, TDC 4 : 2 Convener SHRI K. C. MEHRA VXL India Ltd, OCM Woollen Mills, Amritsar Members SHR~ A. T. BA~AK Directorate General of Suoplies & Disposals, Inspection Wing, New Delhi CHAIRMAN/SECRETARY Wool and Woollens Export Promotion Council. Bombay DR S. K. CHAUDHURI International Wool Secretariat, Bombay SHRI A. BARMAN ROY ( AIternate ) DIRECTOR Wool Research Association, Bombay SMT G. P. RANE (Alternate ) SHRI S. P. KALA Office of the Textile Commissioner, Bombay SHRI P. K. ROY ( Alternate ) SHRI S. MITRA British India Corporation Ltd, Kanpur SHRI S. C. MAHAJAN ( AIternate ) SHRI DEEPAR RAJ NATU Raj Woollen Industries, Panipat DR U. V. PANT Rajasthan State Co-operative Sheep & Wool Marketing Federation Ltd. Jaiuur DR G. S. SINGH Raymond Woollen Mills Ltd, Thank SHRI J. K. BANERIEE( Alternate ) SHRI U. S. SINGH Central Sheep & Wool Research Institute, Avikanagar SHRI D. K. SRIVASTAVA Ministry of Defence ( DGI ) SHRI 0. P. SHARMA( Afternate ) SHRI A. B. TEWARI Shri Dinesh Mills Ltd,. Vadodara SHRX R. C. VASLJDEVA Directorate of Industrtes, Government of Punjab, Chandigarh SHRI MOHINDER SINGH ( Alternate ) SHRI J. N. VOHRA Punjab State Hosiery and Knitwear Develop- ment Corporation Ltd, Chandigarh 2 Is : 673e 1987 Indian Standard SPECIFICATION FOR CLOTH, WOOLLEN, TWILL, DYED ( Third Revision) 0. FOREWORD 0.1 This Indian Standard ( Third Revision ) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards on 8 June 1987, after the draft finalized by the Wool and Wool Products Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile Division Council. 0.2 The present revision of the standard has been taken up in the light of the experience gained since its last revision in 1973. 0.3 In the present revision, the following major changes have been made: a) Requirement for mothproofing has been modified; b) Requirements for ‘wool content percent’ and ‘pH value of aqueous extracts’ have been introduced; c) For colour fastness to washing requirement, the ‘staining on adjacent fabric’ and for colour fastness to drycleaning require- ment the ‘staining of the solvent’ have been introduced; d) For breaking strength test, the ‘Ravelled Strip’ test has been prescribed; and c> Number of objectionable flaws in a piece have been modified. 0.4 For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS : 2-1960*. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard. *Rules for rounding off numerical values ( revised). 3 IS : 673 - 1987 1. SCOPE 1.1 This standard prescribes the constructional particulars and other requirements of cloth, woollen, twill, dyed. 1.2 This standard does not specify the indeterminable characteristics like general appearance, feel, finish and shade of cloth ( see abo 4 ). 2. MANUFACTURE 2.1 The particulars regarding the grade of wool, count of yarn, weave, method of dyeing and finishing for the manufacture of the cloth are given in Table 1. 2.2 Yarn-The yarn shall be spun on woollen system. 2.3 Cloth-The cloth shall be clean, scoured, and free from grease, soap filling or any other admixture which might give fictitious weight, subs- tance or firmness. 2.3.1 The cloth shall be uniformly woven with firm selvedges. TABLE 1 MANUFACTURING PARTICULARS OF CLOTH, (WOOLLEN, TWILL, DYED ( Clause 2.1 ) FINENESS APPROXIMATBCOUNT OF WEAVE METHOD OF TYPE OF GRADE OF YARN [ UNIVERSAL COUNT DYEING FINISH WOOL* ( METRIC COUNT) ] (see NOTE) c--~__-_~ Warp Weft (1) (2) (8) (4) (5) (6) 48s 180 tex 180 tex 2/2 Twill Piece (Nm 5.5) (Nm 5.5) dyeing %i”“hd.:: Nora-Polyamide or polyester fibres may be used in admixture of indigenous wool to the extent of 10 to 15 percent, if agreed to between the buyer and the seller. *For determination of fineness grades of wool, a reference may be made to IS : 5910-1977 ‘Specification for fineness grades of wool (firsr revision )‘. 2.3.2. In case the cloth is to be mothproofed, the same shall be rendered mothproof by suitable mothproofing chemicals which will not have toxic effect on human body and the manufacturer should declare by which chemical the mothproofing has been done and the minimum residual percentage of mothproofing chemical in the fabric as well as the suitable method of test for determining the same. 4 IS : 673 - 1987 NOTE-The active constituents of some of the commonly used mothproofing chemicals are as follows: a) Chloro-2-chloromethyl sulphonamide diphenyl ether derivative ( CCSD ); b) Halogenated diphenyl urea derivative; and c) 2-trifluromethyl-4-( 2, 4, Wrichlorophenoxy )-5, 7-dichlorobenzimidazol. 2.3.3 The cloth, when visually examined against light and on a surface, shall not have more than 12 objectionable flaws in a full length piece. However, in 25 percent of the pieces in the lot up to a maximum of 16 objectionable flaws per piece may be permitted. The objectionable flaws shall be those which strike immediately the eyes of the person examin- ing the cloth and shall be deemed to include the following: a) Missing ends and picks; b) Floats; c) Cuts and hcles; d) Stains; e) Weft bars and warp section marks; f) Big slubs, knots and specks, unless they are a part of the design; g) Prominently noticeable thick and thin places; and h) Dyeing defects ( streaks, patches, etc ). 2.3.3.1 All objectionable flaws shall be marked by means of a thread of a contrasting shade sewn in the selvedge opposite the flaw. An allo- wance of 10 cm shall be given for each Aaw up to 12 flaws in the piece. However, in case of pieces having flaws exceeding 12 and up to 16, an allowance of 25 cm for each such flaw shall be given. 2.3.3.2 A reference may be made to IS : 4125-1987* for details of these defects. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. The constructional particulars of cloth shall conform to those given in Table 2. 3.2 The other requirements of cloth shall conform to those given in Table 3. *Glossary of terms pertaining to defects in fabrics ( firsf revision ).