Keys TravelerThe Magazine

KeysKeys CuisineCuisine The Bogart ConnectionConnection Keys Lighthouses Inspire Artist The ‘Ten Keymandments’

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 1 10/10/12 4:41 PM or a quarter of a century, Sister Shipwrecks Off advanced and experienced Fdivers have enjoyed the twin “Treasury Class” 327- Key Largo Turn 25 foot U.S. Coast Guard cutters, a class simply referred to as “the 327s,” that rest in nearly 130 feet of water one mile south of Molasses Reef off Key Largo in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. The Duane was named for Secretary of the Treasury William L. Duane, who served under Andrew Jackson. It was sunk as an artificial reef Nov. 27, 1987. A day later, the Bibb was sunk nearby. Large pelagic fish often visit the wreck, and there’s no shortage of big barracuda. Considered the service’s flagships, the cutters served in a variety of capacities, including service in World War II. Both cutters are part of a trail of Florida Keys shipwrecks stretching from Key Largo to Key West and spotlighted by the Wreck Trek Passport Program. The program rewards certified divers who complete a series of wreck dives listed in an official logbook. Because of its popularity, a “Wreck Trek 2.0” continuation of the dive challenge is under way through January 2014. Divers who complete five dives (one wreck in each Keys region) receive a personalized print of Keys shipwrecks. Divers who finish all nine dives are entered in a contest for a chance to win one of several grand prizes including dive equipment, accessories and dive and lodging packages. — Julie Botteri

STEPHEN FRINK A diver explores the Duane off Key Largo. fla-keys.com/diving/wrecktrek

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ANDY NEWMAN (2) Keys Traveler 8 The Magazine

Editor Andy Newman Managing Editor Carol Shaughnessy Copy Editor Buck Banks Writers Julie Botteri Jo Thomas Production Assistant Carolina Bustamante

“Keys Traveler” is published by the Contents Monroe County Tourist Development Council, the official visitor marketing 4 Florida Keys Seafood Pleases agency for the Florida Keys & Key West. 8 Bogie and Key Largo Director Harold Wheeler 9 Film Festival Set for May 2-5 Director of Sales 10 ‘Lighthouse Larry’ Shines a Beacon on Keys History Stacey Mitchell 12 Saving Turtles in the Florida Keys Florida Keys & Key West Key West Church Gets Vatican Honor Visitor Information New Park Lures Water-Sports Fans www.fla-keys.com www.fla-keys.co.uk 13 Keys Offer Family Activities From A to Z www.fla-keys.de Tropical Talent Rocks the Keys www.fla-keys.ie 14 Adventures Spotlight Unspoiled Lower Keys www.fla-keys.fr www.fla-keys.nl 15 Enjoy RV and Camping Holidays in the Florida Keys www.fla-keys.be 16 When and Where to Fish for Popular Keys Game Fish Toll-Free in the U.S. and Canada 1-800-FLA-KEYS 18 Key West Rainbow Flag to Celebrate 10th Birthday For the free monthly Two Unique Properties Offer Keys Flair “Keys Traveler” 19 ‘Ten Keymandments’ for Keys Travelers electronic newsletter, subscribe at 20 Traveling Tips to the Florida Keys www.fla-keys.com/keystraveler © 2012 Monroe County Tourist Development Council Printed in the U.S.A. What’s This? By Original Impressions The Florida Keys You’ll find this QR code & Key West accompanying many stories in this issue of “Keys Traveler.” The QR twitter.com/thefloridakeys codes can be scanned by most smartphones. Activate the app, aim your phone at the bar code and you’ll youtube.com/user/FloridaKeysTV be automatically taken to a corresponding website or video for more information. For iPhones and iPads, QR readers can be downloaded free at the Apple App Store. keysvoices.com

Cover photo of Islamorada Fish Company restaurant by Andy Newman

140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 3 10/10/12 4:02 PM From Seafood to Key Lime Pie, Florida Keys Cuisine Pleases

By Carol Shaughnessy

t’s spicy conch chowder. Savory Cuban pork. experimentation and regional food history. Succulent pink shrimp dipped in tangy mustard Menta delved deep into the island chain’s past to Isauce. And Key lime pie, sweet and creamy with a compile the volume, which emphasizes old and new hint of tartness. It’s Florida Keys cuisine, and it’s as Keys dishes, food secrets from local residents, healthy unique and appealing as the island chain itself. preparation and the value of sourcing native foods. The Keys’ location and heritage largely shaped the “Before trains and the Overseas Highway, you fed development of the islands’ cuisine. Their remoteness your family only the local foods,” said Menta. “The and saltwater surroundings meant residents relied on ocean has always been our ‘farm.’” the ocean’s harvest for food, and settlers brought the Today, many restaurants create menus around flavors of their homelands with them. fish and seafood. Popular local “eating fish” include “Cooks in the Florida Keys have followed a long yellowtail, hogfish and mutton snapper, grouper and history of resourcefulness and recipes,” said chef dolphin (the fish, not the friendly mammal). Fish can be and author Paul Menta, whose book “Native Fuel” sautéed, broiled or blackened, fried or prepared with is a flavorful blend of insights, recipes that invite sauce containing mango or other tropical fruit.

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 4 10/11/12 4:39 PM ANDY NEWMAN

Florida Keys stone crab claws, lobster, shrimp, yellowtail snapper and other fresh fish species are displayed at the Hogfish Bar and Grill near Key West.

Shellfish are equally popular with Keys diners, and focal ingredient in dishes dreamed up by innovative conch tops the list. Pronounced konk, it’s found in rich chefs. chowder, deep-fried fritters and lime-dressed salad For example, Chef Bobby Stoky of Islamorada’s among other dishes. famed Marker 88 enjoys preparing tasty lobster Another well-loved Keys delicacy is sweet pink tempura tacos that combine fresh battered Florida shrimp, steamed and eaten hot with drawn butter or lobster and avocado cream wrapped in tortillas. cold with cocktail or mustard sauce. Creative local “One of the things that’s great about Florida lobsters chefs might serve shrimp in garlicky scampi, fried in is that they’re really sweet,” advised Stoky, who has batter or blackened in Caribbean spices. owned the restaurant for 12 years. “You can grill these Stone crab and lobster also are plentiful in area or just boil them as well, but obviously it makes it a waters. With stone crab, only the claws are harvested little more decadent with the tempura.” and eaten, while the Florida lobster has no claws. The Keys’ most indigenous ethnic food is Cuban, Lobster can be served plain and dipped in butter brought by those who fled their nearby homeland sauce, stuffed with breadcrumbs and spices or as the seeking freedom. Cuban classics include a dish of

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 5 10/10/12 4:02 PM shredded beef called ropa vieja or ROB O’NEAL “old clothes,” picadillo and tender marinated pork. Entrees normally come with black beans, yellow rice and sweet plantains. Tropical fruits are a favorite accent used by island chefs and passion fruit, mango, sour oranges and carambola find their way into many recipes. So too does the tiny yellow Key lime, the vital ingredient in the Keys’ signature dessert, Key lime pie. Key lime pies can be topped with truly meringue or whipped cream, and offbeat

typically are nestled in a graham offerings like Key A slice of David Sloan’s Key lime pie. cracker crust. Recipes vary from lime pies incorporating (believe it or eatery to eatery, so some food- not!) bacon and jalapeno peppers. lovers undertake dedicated taste Visitors can explore the flavors tests to discover the finest. of the Keys at numerous food “What is the best “What is the best Key lime pie? festivals each year. They include Key lime pie? That’s That’s easy,” said Key West author January’s Uncorked … the Key David Sloan. “It’s the one you’re Largo and Islamorada Food & Wine easy. It’s the one about to eat.” Festival, a multisensory Upper Keys you’re about to eat.” Sloan should know. Once a experience featuring 10 days of – David Sloan competitor in the professional food, wine and spirits. Events range division of the National Pie from wine dinners to art and wine Championships, he recently shows, and a grand tasting finale. researched and penned “The Also in January, the Key West

ANDY NEWMAN Food and Wine Festival showcases the creativity of top local chefs and restaurateurs. The tasty four-day schedule features dining experiences and food and wine adventures including a mile-long tasting stroll

Huge shrimp are served at the 2012 Key Largo Food & on the island city’s Duval Wine Festival that has evolved to include Islamorada. Street, an outdoor wine Ultimate Key Lime Pie Cookbook.” market and the Master Chef’s Alongside little-known tidbits and Classic culinary competition. tips from fellow pie-making pros, Each March brings the Original the book contains recipes for 20 Marathon Seafood Festival in the crusts, 20 fillings, 20 sauces and Middle Keys, starring popular 20 toppings that can be mixed delicacies such as Florida lobster, and matched to create nearly stone crab, fish and shrimp. LARRY BENVENUTI infinite variations on the delectable More than 20,000 seafood lovers Commercial fishermen restock offerings at dessert. Among the recipes are typically attend the family-friendly a past Original Marathon Seafood Festival.

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 6 10/11/12 4:39 PM KIM FOEHRINGER

Paul Menta, above, fillets a yellowtail snapper aboard a commercial shrimping , while David Sloan, left, prepares a traditional Key lime pie. weekend event that also features live music, an art show and vendor booths. Whether sampled at a food festival or local restaurant, the island chain’s indigenous cuisine is individualistic and intriguing. From savory seafood to Key lime pie, it’s a rich and wonderful part of the Florida Keys experience. floridakeysuncorked.com marathonseafoodfestival.com keywestfoodandwinefest.com

Watch Chef Bobby Stoky prepare onion-encrusted yellowtail snapper.

ROB O’NEAL

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 7 10/11/12 4:39 PM ANDY NEWMAN (2)

Bogie and Key Largo isitors to Key Largo now can “To be able to ride on the African the Livingstone, until 1968 it cruise on the restored African Queen and to be able to have it shuttled cargo, hunting parties and VQueen, the iconic original back in operation is absolutely mercenaries on the Congo’s Ruki vessel from ’s classic tremendous,” Bogart said at the River for the British East Africa Rail 1951 film that starred Humphrey vessel’s premiere. “You know, I’ve Company — with a “sabbatical” Bogart and Katharine Hepburn. never really been on many movie to appear in the film after it was Registered as a national historic sets, and this is like being on a spotted by John Huston. site, the vessel underwent $70,000 movie set, and just the fact that In 1968 the boat was purchased worth of structural, mechanical somebody bought it and has taken and shipped via freighter to San and cosmetic repairs before its the time to restore it.” Francisco, but was stripped of 2012 relaunch featuring Humphrey The African Queen was built in almost all gear. Fourteen years Bogart’s son Stephen Bogart. 1912 in England. Originally named later, attorney and Bogart buff

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 8 10/10/12 4:03 PM “I think my dad would be honored to see the care and concern that people are taking to preserve the legacy of the film and help preserve his legacy, and he would be honored and humbled,” Bogart added. Today, the African Queen, homeported at the Holiday Inn Key Largo, looks just as it appeared in the film. Visitors can come aboard for 90-minute canal cruises offered several times daily, and dinner cruises featuring a three-course meal at Key Largo’s Pilot House are Stephen Bogart, left, and Suzanne Holmquist, offered Friday and Saturday right, examine photos of Humphrey Bogart. nights. The African Queen is just one of Humphrey Bogart the ties Key Largo has to Bogart. Film Festival Set for The Keys’ longest island gained May 2-5 in Key Largo fame when the 1948 movie classic “Key Largo,” featuring Bogart and ilm icon Humphrey Bogart , hit the silver screen. is to be celebrated May 2-5, A local bar, the Caribbean Club, F2013, in the setting of one provided the locale for some of the of his most famous movies. movie’s scenes. The inaugural Humphrey Bogart Even Key Largo’s postmark Film Festival is to mark 65 years reflects the Bogart connection. since the premiere of the movie The central and northern parts of “Key Largo,” starring Bogart and the island were served by what was his wife Lauren Bacall, which was known as the Rock Harbor Post partially filmed on Jim Hendricks Sr. discovered it Office from 1936 until after the the island at the languishing in a Florida pasture. He success of the film “Key Largo.” top of the Keys. purchased it, oversaw restorations, In 1952, according to Upper Plans call for brought the African Queen to Key Keys historian Jerry Wilkinson, the festival to Largo and began offering rides. local businessmen eager to take showcase the actor’s films and After many years in service, advantage of the film’s widespread include a formal Bogart Ball, a the boat’s engine broke and was publicity spearheaded a post office display of Bogart memorabilia never fixed, but the African Queen name change from Rock Harbor to and cruises on the African Queen. remained on display for history and Key Largo, with a corresponding “My father and mother starred film fans to view. But the venerable change in postmark for outgoing in ‘Key Largo’ and the actual vessel’s fortunes changed when Key letters. boat from ‘The African Queen’ is Largo’s Captain Lance Holmquist — Julie Botteri here in Key Largo,” said Stephen and Suzanne Holmquist signed a Bogart, who is to attend. “It feels long-term lease with Jim Hendricks’ right to honor my father and his Take a ride on the African movies in this beautiful place, a son to restore and operate it again, Queen in Key Largo. and dedicated themselves to connection to his legacy.” returning it to its former glory. bogartfilmfestival.com

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 9 10/10/12 4:03 PM Watch “Lighthouse Larry” replicate Keys history.

By Julie Botteri

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 10 10/11/12 4:39 PM ANDY NEWMAN (2)

‘Lighthouse Larry’ Shines a n Islamorada-based artist, known locally as “Lighthouse Larry” for his passion for lighthouses, focuses on creating exact scale replicas of six historic Florida Keys beacons — three built before the Civil War. A As a kid in the Keys, Larry Herlth was amazed at a local lobster fisherman’s ability to carve a dolphin Beaconfrom coral rock. Soon he discovered on he too couldKeys do it. History When a friend asked him to build a dock jetty light, Herlth was inspired to turn his artistic sights to lighthouses. He first created a replica of Alligator Lighthouse off Islamorada, which dates back to 1873. Now, also having forged replicas of the 160-year-old Carysfort Lighthouse, located off the northern end of Key Largo, and Sombrero Lighthouse off Marathon, Herlth hopes to re-create each of the once-lived-in and manned lighthouses of the Florida Keys island chain — in several sizes. Herlth creates his replicas from photographs, using copper and brazing techniques to heighten and achieve the visual effects of smaller details. He averages 200 to 300 man-hours on a single replica, depending on the size. For pieces more than 20 feet tall, he uses stronger welded steel. In addition to crafting replicas, Herlth is passionate about preserving the original beacons that once warned ships away from the Florida Keys reef tract. Modern Global Positioning System navigation has replaced the need for lighthouses in the Keys and, with the exception of their navigation lights, they are no longer maintained. “We need to bring attention to a national treasure,” he said. “These structures need to be saved.” In 2012, Herlth swam to Alligator Reef Lighthouse and back — an eight-mile Atlantic Ocean swim — to raise awareness about the need to preserve the Keys’ lighthouses. He plans to continue building awareness by spearheading a competitive swim to the light next August. Lighthouse Larry’s sculptures are publicly displayed outside Upper Keys banks and restaurants, including his 20-foot replica of Alligator Light at Islamorada’s Kaiyo Grill. He dreams of creating a lighthouse park where people can discover what’s just offshore of the Florida Keys. “I want to bring attention to the actual beauty of these lighthouses in their design and incredible architecture and strength,” Herlth said. “They have held up to the wind, the oceans, for 160 years and they are still standing — and hopefully will always be standing.”

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 11 10/11/12 4:39 PM ROB O’NEAL Saving Turtles in the Florida Keys oggerhead, green, leatherback, hawksbill and Kemp’s ridley sea turtles nest on beaches in the Florida Keys Land other parts of Florida, or inhabit Florida and Keys waters. All five species are considered either threatened or endangered. The Keys’ Save-a-Turtle organization, formed in 1985, is a volunteer nonprofit group dedicated to the protection of rare and endangered marine turtles and the enhancement of their habitats. From mid-April through October each year, turtles crawl ashore at night to dig their nests and lay eggs. A female turtle typically lays about 100 eggs and covers them with sand before returning to the water, leaving the nest alone. Approximately two months later, the hatchlings struggle free of the nest and rush toward the sea, guided by moonlight reflecting off the open water. Any artificial light, including flashlights and flash cameras, can disturb and disorient the turtles, interrupting the natural process. Laws prohibit people from touching or disturbing hatchlings, nests and nesting turtles. Save-a-Turtle’s activities include surveying local beaches to monitor and document turtle nesting information, working with local municipalities to keep nesting beaches safe and friendly for turtles, spearheading beach cleanups of nesting areas and performing educational outreach to increase awareness save-a-turtle.org of light pollution and other issues affecting sea turtles. — Julie Botteri

Key West Church ANDY NEWMAN New Park Lures Gets Vatican Honor Water-Sports Fans ey West’s St. Mary Star of the Sea, the oldest Catholic therside has Kchurch in South Florida, has premiered a new cable park been designated a minor basilica by Owhere adventure enthusiasts the Vatican to mark its historic and and curious newcomers can safely spiritual importance. and cost-effectively participate Established in 1846, St. Mary in , wakeskating, Star of the Sea has long been waterskiing and . revered as a focal point and Keys Cable, located on Grassy architectural landmark for the Key in the Middle Keys, is billed as community of Key West. It is the the nation’s first cable park to offer Clergymen escort an ombrellino, a symbol fifth minor basilica in Florida and the of a basilica, into St. Mary’s Star of the Sea. full kiteboarding instruction. The 73rd in the United States. Vienna Boys Choir, whose roots cable system uses an overhead As well as its history and date back to the 13th century. towing device to pull riders across American Victorian architecture, the The performance of classical the water. basilica is renowned for the Grotto inspirational music is presented by Two two-point cable systems are of Our Lady of Lourdes. the South Florida Symphony as part independently operated on a seven- In 2013, St. Mary’s is to host of its 15th anniversary season. acre lake. a concert by the world-renowned keywestcatholicparish.org KeysCable.com

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 12 10/11/12 4:39 PM Songwriter Chuck Cannon performs at the ROB Keys Offer Family Key West Song Writer’s Festival. O’NEAL Travel Activities From A to Z he Florida Keys & Key West offer activities for visitors Tof virtually all interests, so moms, dads, teens and ‘tweens can make vacation days together unforgettable. One of the first family-friendly attractions in the Keys was the Key West Aquarium, which opened in 1934. Unique and inviting, the aquarium is home to local marine life. Visiting kids can even pet a shark or interact with small sea creatures in a touch tank. For history and nature explorers, the Upper Keys’ Windley Key Fossil Reef Tropical Talent Geological State Park features 8-foot-high walls of an ancient Rocks the Keys fossilized coral reef to walk along, as well as five nature trails hile some Florida Keys tunes in intimate island settings. to hike. visitors are attracted Other standout events include Key In addition, families can interact Wby the musical sounds Largo’s Original Music Festival, with and learn about dolphins at of waves lapping shorelines and staged in October, and music five Keys locations. breezes stirring palm trees, many abounds the first weekend of each Family time in the island chain other types of live music also are November when Jimmy Buffett’s also means learning together, indigenous to the island chain. Parrot Heads gather in Key West. trying a new sport like , Thanks to a community of As listeners can attest, Keys diving, or . musicians and songwriters, the music festivals and performances Free weekend fishing seminars, rhythms of reggae, salsa, tropical often contain moments of pure kiteboarding lessons and even rock and much more can be heard enchantment. From spontaneous tandem hang gliding are some spilling from the open doorways of harmonizing between musical of the soft-adventure fun that bars and restaurants throughout the cohorts to jam sessions where each families can enjoy in as little Keys. Many local performers write participant’s riffs outdo previous as two days — or a weeklong their own songs, inspired by the efforts, they showcase the talent ultimate experience. natural beauty, free-spirited lifestyle that thrives in the Florida Keys. — Julie Botteri and laid-back pace of the islands. ­— Carol Shaughnessy fla-keys.com/familytravel In addition, music festivals keywestsongwritersfestival.com abound. Chief among them is the keylargosongwritersfestival.com

Meet “Miles Marker,” Key West Songwriter’s Festival each star of the Florida Keys May, drawing some of America’s Watch Jimmy Buffett Family Travel Video. foremost performing songwriters perform in Key West. to play their hits and preview new

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 13 10/10/12 4:41 PM Kayak Adventures Spotlight Unspoiled Lower Keys

ROB O’NEAL Andrea Paulson, left, paddles with a guest on a excursion in the Lower Keys. lorida Keys visitors can discover the unspoiled backcountry more than 13 years ago as a weekend waters of the Lower Keys backcountry on a alternative to Key West shopping for herself and other Funique kayak excursion with Reelax Charters. fishermen’s wives — and loved the experience so Guided by Captain Andrea Paulson, a 20-year Keys much that it seemed only natural for her to share it with resident and lifetime outdoor enthusiast, participants others. journey by motorboat seven to nine miles off the “The best part is ending the day with a hug from a Lower Keys. They then begin their kayak adventure in customer because we’ve had so much fun together a realm of crystal-clear waters, remote islands, pristine it’s almost like we’ve become best friends,” Paulson beaches, shallow flats, mangroves and more. said. “I love my job, and when I’m not working I’m out While exploring, kayakers enjoy an “off-the-beaten- exploring new areas by kayak.” paddle experience,” discovering islands and areas A few couples, clearly romanced by the natural unreachable by kayak alone. They might spot native beauty of the Keys, have even gotten engaged or tied Keys wildlife like the great white heron, ibis, starfish, the knot on one of Paulson’s private kayak excursions. stingrays, colorful tropical fish, sea turtles and even a Families too find themselves captivated by Reelax dolphin or two. Charters’ explorations, and Paulson keeps books and Reelax Charters’ fully customized kayak excursions literature on hand for children to use in identifying Keys are an escape in time. Participants begin at their wildlife. leisure and Paulson doesn’t watch the clock while Offered daily by appointment from Sugarloaf Marina guests are having fun. Most tours last four to five hours on Sugarloaf Key, Reelax Charters kayak excursions and accommodate up to six people. are adventures in “reelaxation.” Paulson named her business Reelax Charters for They provide an ideal way to experience the wonders her nickname, “Ree,” and the relaxing experience of the unspoiled Lower Florida Keys. participants enjoy. She began exploring the Lower Keys keyskayaking.com

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 14 10/10/12 4:41 PM isitors traveling through Savoring day’s end at an RV BILL KEOGH campsite in the Lower Keys. the Florida Keys can take Vadvantage of a wide variety of lodging properties ranging from luxurious to modest. However, a growing segment of people prefer to get close to nature by camping when visiting the island chain. Campsites can be found all along U.S. Highway 1, the main road through the Keys, to suit virtually all budgets and camping gear — from a simple tent to the most opulent recreational vehicle, or RV. Visitors can find on-the-water campsites, grassy tree-shaded sites nestled in natural wooded areas, tiny tucked- away spots and large full-service RV resort facilities. On Key Largo, first and largest of the Keys along U.S. 1, is the United States’ first underwater park, John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. The park, which celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2010, offers 47 full- facility camping sites for both tent and RV campers. Park activities include , snorkeling, canoeing and kayaking, fishing, boat rentals, glass-bottom boat tours of the Florida Keys’ living coral reef and guided and self- guided nature walks. A popular camping destination Enjoy Sun-Filled RV and Camping farther down U.S. 1 is Long Key State Park. Campsites are all on the Holidays in the Florida Keys water, with nature trails and rentals on premises. Campers can and . Visitors can United States’ top 10 in several hike the Golden Orb Trail through enjoy canoeing, kayaking, hiking, travel surveys. Other attractions five natural communities to an opportunities for wildlife viewing include picnic areas, rental observation tower that provides a and waterfront picnic shelters for and snorkel gear, birding, wildlife panoramic view of the island and its family and group picnics. viewing and a nature trail that leads profusion of plant and animal life. Foremost among Lower Keys to the top of the historic Old Bahia Marathon’s Curry Hammock State facilities is Bahia Honda State Park, Honda Bridge. Park in the Middle Keys recently one of the Keys’ most popular Whatever camping option visitors was named America’s third-favorite camping and recreation areas. choose, reservations are a must, park based on an online survey. The Bahia Honda offers sites especially during the popular winter park’s full-service campground has on both the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf season from November through 28 sites and the 1,200-foot sandy of Mexico, and its sandy-bottom Easter. beach is popular for kiteboarding beach has been named one of the ­— Jo Thomas

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 15 10/10/12 4:41 PM When and Where to Fish for Popular Florida Keys Game Fish SPECIES SIZE HABITAT SEASON TACKLE* Amberjack 30-75 lbs. reef, wreck, March-May 20-80# humps Barracuda 7-35 lbs. all areas year round fly, spin, baitcast Bonefish 5-16 lbs. flats May-Oct. fly, spin, baitcast Cobia 15-80 lbs. reef, wreck, Nov.-April fly, spin, humps baitcast Dolphin 5-65 lbs. reef, wreck, April-Oct. fly, spin, (Mahi-Mahi) humps baitcast Grouper 10-500 lbs. reef, wreck, May-Dec. spin, (multiple species) humps 20-50# Cero Mackerel 3-10 lbs. reef, wreck, Nov.-April fly, spin, humps baitcast King Mackerel 8-70 lbs. reef, wreck, Oct.-April spin, humps 12-30# Spanish Mackerel 3-7 lbs. bay, bridge, Nov.-March fly, spin, reef baitcast Blue Marlin 80-600 lbs. blue water May-Oct. 50-80# White Marlin 30-125 lbs. blue water April-Sept. 12-30# Permit 8-40 lbs. flats, wreck March-Nov. fly, spin, baitcast Redfish 3-20 lbs. backcountry year round fly, spin, baitcast Sailfish 30-80 lbs. reef edge, Nov.-May fly, spin, blue water 12-20# Shark 10-600 lbs. all areas year round fly, spin, (multiple species) baitcast, 30-80# Snapper (Mangrove) 1-6 lbs. bridges, bay year round spin and reef Snapper (Mutton) 5-20 lbs. flats and reef April-Sept. fly, spin, baitcast Snapper (Yellowtail) 2-6 lbs. reef year round spin Snook 6-35 lbs. backcountry March-Nov. fly, spin, baitcast Swordfish 70-700 lbs. blue water year round 50-130# Tarpon 25-150 lbs. bridges, flats, March-Aug. fly, spin, bay baitcast Tuna (Blackfin) 5-38 lbs. blue water, off- year round fly, spin, shore humps 20-30# Wahoo 15-80 lbs. blue water Nov.-June spin, 30#

*Tackle is specified as spin, fly, baitcast or conventional with appropriate line class (# means line test breaking strength in pounds).

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 16 10/10/12 4:42 PM ANDY NEWMAN The Florida Keys lay claim to more world saltwater angling records than any other destination on the globe, according to the International Game Fish Association. A saltwater fishing license is required to fish from a pier, bridge, boat or wading from shore in all Florida waters. Visitors who fish on a certified charter, party or backcountry boat do not need a license because the captain and boat carry necessary documentation. More information on fishing licenses and saltwater fishing regulations is available at myfwc.com/fishing.

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A sailfish leaps before being caught and released off the Florida Keys.

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 17 10/10/12 4:42 PM 1.25-Mile Key West Rainbow Flag Two Unique To Celebrate 10th Birthday Properties Offer he 1.25-mile-long banner Florida Keys Flair believed to be the world’s The Ibis Bay Waterfront Resort longest rainbow flag, T is Key West’s hottest new unfurled during Key West’s Pride property. The resort combines 2003 festivities, will mark its “island chic” and Key West’s 10th “birthday” in June 2013 — lighthearted atmosphere, and sections of that flag are still thriving on its individuality carrying the island city’s message with vibrant décor throughout of acceptance and diversity to and 78 beautifully decorated locations around the world. guestrooms. The resort’s open- Gilbert Baker, creator of air Lighthouse Restaurant serves the original rainbow flag that breakfast, lunch and dinner, symbolizes gay pride, sewed the offering freshly caught seafood “Key West Rainbow Flag” in the and live entertainment, and island city to celebrate the 25th guests can soak up the sun on anniversary of the original banner’s more than 600 feet of white sand debut. Its creation took three beach. The resort’s “fun desk” months and approximately 17,600 can arrange everything from kite- linear yards of fabric that weighed boarding lessons to ghost tours, more than 3 tons. sand-sculpture classes, fine During Pride 2003, approximately dining and more. 2,000 volunteers unfurled the vibrant banner down the entire length of Key West’s Duval Street, from the Gulf of Mexico Lime Tree Bay Resort is to the Atlantic Ocean. Volunteers idyllically located on Long Key, simultaneously dipped both ends of ANDY NEWMAN featuring a quarter-mile of lush waterfront property. The resort the flag into the water for a sea-to- The sea-to-sea rainbow flag is unfurled sea showing of openness and pride. along Duval Street on June 15, 2003. recently underwent a renovation After the unfurling, the flag was people and their friends. The and enhancement to its 46 rooms divided into sections that have colorful flags are flown from a large and suites, most with magnificent since appeared at festivities around percentage of shops, clubs and views of the Gulf of Mexico’s the world. Sections of the Key other businesses, and one stands tranquil blue waters. Lime Tree West banner have been featured alongside the American flag in Key Bay offers amenities including at celebrations in Manchester, West’s city hall. complimentary continental England; Koln, Germany; Toronto, To celebrate the flag’s 10th breakfast, two swimming pools, Canada; Stockholm, Sweden; Oslo, anniversary, Key West Pride a white sand beach, free use Norway, and Los Angeles, New York organizers hope to bring home of ocean kayaks and free boat City, Chicago, Dallas and Atlanta, as many sections as possible to dockage. Each room has access among many other locales. appear in the 2013 Pride Parade to comfortable hammocks, A 100-foot section is carried set for June 9. Each section is barbecue grills and secluded each year during Key West’s Pride to be accompanied by signage seating areas among palm trees. Parade, and smaller rainbow flags chronicling its traveling “history” to In addition, the resort offers also are a familiar sight in the help people understand the global wonderful views of the renowned island city — one of the top tourist impact the sea-to-sea flag has had Florida Keys sunset. destinations in the world for gay, over the past 10 years. ibisbayresort.com lesbian, bisexual and transgendered keywestpride.org limetreebayresort.com

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140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 18 10/10/12 4:42 PM ‘Ten Keymandments’ for Keys Travelers

he 10 Commandments are about things not to do. However, the laidback Florida Keys are all about what travelers can do to have meaningful and Tmemorable vacations — while respecting and helping preserve the island chain’s unique environment. Thus, consider these  “Ten Keymandments” as guidelines for enjoying a sustainable travel experience in the Keys. I. Plant a coral (or adopt one of the cute little things, but don’t touch them on the reef). II. Use a mooring buoy at dive sites (save your back and leave the anchor alone). III. Support the wildlife (volunteer food, funds or time to a local wild bird center). IV. Take out the trash (especially if it’s floating in the water). V. Capture a lionfish (any time and any size — we can show you how). VI. Leave a digital footprint (share pictures with fans, friends and followers). VII. Hike it, bike it or hoof it (it’s low on eco-impact and high on fresh tropical air). VIII. Catch dinner (and release all the fish you know you can’t eat). IX. Conserve versus consume (reduce, reuse and recycle even on vacation).

X. Get off the beaten path (you can hike, bike, walk, kayak or paddleboard along Keys trails). ANDY NEWMAN Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 23

140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 19 10/10/12 4:42 PM 9336

Shark Point Pa-hay-Okee Overlook To Florida Turnpike Card Sisal Pond Sound Ponce De Leon Bay to Miami Oyster Bay Mahogany Ocean Shark River Hammock Reef Club Traveling Tips Island 1 Sweet Bay Everglades Pond 905 Florida Keys Whitewater Bay National National Marine Sanctuary North West Cape Park Cape Dagney Johnson Sable Largo Hammock to the Florida Keys Crocodile Lake Botanical State Park National Wildlife Nine Mile Refuge Pond Hawk Channel Long Barnes Carysfort MILE Sound Point Mary Sound 110 Reef Cross Key 905 Alligator Trout Cove Seven Palm Lake Bay Davis Shell Key Key Largo Middle Cape Cove Canal Long Madeira Deer Key Middle Lake Bay Blackwater Bear Garfield Monroe Lake Sound Snake Bight Eagle Key North Dry Rocks Lake 9336 Bight Elbow Reef Madeira MILE Porpoise Rankin Santini Terrapin City of Washington Wreck Middle Cape Lake Point Bay 105 Ingraham Bight Bight Bay Shark Terrapin Boggy Key Dry Rocks Crocodile Madeira Point Mosquito Point Largo “Christ of the Abyss” Flamingo Joe Kemp Umbrella Point Point Point Key Big Key Sound East Cape Bradley Key Rankin Key Canal Key Samphire Buttonwood Grecian East Cape Keys Sound Rocks Newport MILE John Pennekamp 100 Coral Reef State Park Spiegel Grove Benwood Wreck MILE Wreck 95 White Banks French Reef Cottrell Rodriguez Key East Key 1 Key Marquesas Tavernier Molasses Hospital Middle Keys Reef Key Key Barracuda MILE Key 90 Archer Florida Mule Loggerhead Key Islamorada Bibb Key Key Plantation Pickles Wreck Bay Windley Key Reef Garden MILE Key Key Boca Grande 85 Plantation Point Duane Bush Key Key Wreck Gulf of Mexico Shell Key Windley Key Fossil Conch Fort Key Reef Geological Reef Crawfish State Park Hen and Jefferson West Upper Chickens Man Key Lignumvitae Key Key West National Woman MILE Matecumbe Key Reef Key Key 80 Wildlife Refuge Davis Crocker Reef MILE Teatable Key Dry Tortugas National Park 75 Reef 60 miles west of Key West, Straits of Florida Indian Key and 37 miles west of the Marquesas Keys Florida Keys Lower Eagle National Fiesta Key Matecumbe Key Wreck MILE Marine Sanctuary 70 1 Alligator Layton Florida Keys Reef MILE Long Key Florida 65 Long Key State National of Recreational Area Great White Heron Marathon Conch Key Marine Sanctuary

National Wildlife Refuge MILE Grassy Key 60 Straits Gulf of Mexico Long Point Tennessee Key Duck Key Reef Florida Keys Big Torch Marathon Big Pine MILE Airport 55 Key Hammock Great White Heron State Park East Turtle Deer Key Shoal Two Humps National Knight’s MILE National Wildlife Refuge Pigeon 50 Vaca Key Key Deer Key Key Key 1 Middle Old Seven Bridge Refuge MILE Torch No Name Mile West Turtle MILE 45 Shoal Sugarloaf Key Key Key Ohio Key 40 Boot Key The Cudjoe Key MILE Seven Snake Little 30 Coffins MILE Mile Patch 20 MILE Torch Saddlebunch 25 Coupon MILE 1 Bridge 1 Key Bight 35 Bahia Delta Shoal Herman’s Summerland Ramrod Hole Alexander’s Wreck Keys MILE Key 15 Key Newfound Honda East Thunderbolt Harbor Keys Washerwoman Channel Sombrero Wreck Lower Hawk Samantha’s Atlantic Ocean Big Coppitt State Park Reef Cottrell Key West Sugarloaf Key Key Key Flagler’s Barge MILE American Key West Golf 10 Newfound Harbor Seven Mile Bridge Wreck Fleming Dredger’s Course and CC Shoal Coral Heads Key Key 1 Artificial Reef MILE 5 Maryland U.S. Naval Geiger Big Pine Stock Shoals Adolphus MILE Air Station Key Looe Key Shoals 0 Island Busch Sr. Florida Keys Wreck Reef Preserve National Key West Boca Chica Key SOUTHERNMOST Intl. Airport Florida POINT of fla-keys.com Marine Sanctuary KEY WEST, FL Western Eastern Pelican Straits Sambos Shoal Eastern Sambos Dry Rocks Joe’s Tug Sand Rock Key Key Western Cayman Vandenberg Dry Rocks Salvor Wreck Wreck

The 120-mile-long Florida Keys island south to the Turnpike Extension. Weather/Climate chain is linked to mainland Florida by U.S. Driving Data to Keys/Key Largo Wherever you are right now, chances are Highway 1, the Overseas Highway. Visitors the weather is better in the Florida Keys. can fly into Miami International Airport (MIA) FROM MILES KM HOURS Miami 50 80 1 That’s true even on a summer day. The or Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Fort Myers 200 320 4 hottest it’s ever been in Key West is 97° F Airport (FLL) and from there can reach Tampa 300 480 6 (36° C), and that was in 1880. At the the Keys by airport shuttle bus or rental Orlando 280 450 5.25 peak of summer, the average high air car. Travelers can reach Key Largo, the Distance from Miami temperature is about 89° F (32° C). The gateway to the Keys, in about an hour from REGION MILES KM MILE MARKER Keys are devoid of superhighways or Miami or an hour and 45 minutes from Fort Key Largo 50 80 107-90 urban sprawl to absorb and radiate the Lauderdale. Islamorada 76 122 89-66 sun’s heat. And the subtropical islands are Commercial Airlines Serving Marathon 111 178 65-45 cooled by sea breezes. Lower Keys 128 205 45--4 In the winter, the Keys are typically the Key West International Airport Key West 159 254 4-0 American Airlines aa.com warmest region in the continental U.S. There has never been a frost in Key West, Cape Air capeair.com Via Bus according to the U.S. Weather Service. Delta delta.com Bus/shuttle connections from MIA and Below are the average monthly air Southwest southwest.com FLL to the Florida Keys allow traveling to the Florida Keys without renting a car. temperatures for the past 30 years, United Express united.com according to the Key West weather office. USAirways usairways.com Via Boat Temperatures in blue shades are Fahrenheit Driving Directions Ferry connections from Fort Myers or and those in light red are Celsius. Marco Island to Key West are offered From Miami International Airport (MIA), via the Key West Express. Voyages take take LeJeune Road south to 836 West. approximately 3.5 hours. Take the Florida Turnpike south toward Extensive details on getting to the Florida Key West. The Turnpike ends at U.S. 1 in Keys & Key West are available at: Florida City. Follow U.S. 1 south about 22 miles to Key Largo and you are now in the fla-keys.com/gettinghere.cfm Florida Keys. From Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood Inter- national Airport (FLL), exit the airport and follow the signs for 595 West. Take 595 to Help and More Information the Florida Turnpike and follow the signs If you’re traveling in the Keys and for the Florida Keys. need any help, call our toll-free Visitors’ From the north, take the Florida Turnpike Assistance line at 1-800-771-KEYS. It’s south to just below Fort Lauderdale, where staffed 24 hours per day. To contact visitor Exit 4 joins the southern portion of the offices in the Keys, call 1-800-FLA-KEYS. Turnpike. The Turnpike ends at U.S. 1 in The Florida Keys website at fla-keys.com Florida City. Follow U.S. 1 south into the and fla-keys.co.uk has a live chat feature Florida Keys. fla-keys.com with visitor information specialists during From Florida’s west coast, take I-75 regular U.S. weekday business hours to (Alligator Alley) east to the Miami exit, and fla-keys.co.uk aid travelers in vacation planning.

140401 NPR KeysTraveler2012.indd 20 10/10/12 5:57 PM