WESTCOAST TRAIL Comprehensive information includes all of the following:

• Before hiking this trail 10 points to consider • Pros and cons of the trail – other trail possibilities • Planning ahead – trail reservations, pre and post trip transportation and accommodation considerations with pertinent contact numbers and websites • How many days should you plan on hiking? • 6, 7 and 8 day itineraries with options for both directions • Packing lists • Meal suggestions • Costs • Maps • Other important and useful information with pertinent links Everything you need to know for a truly West Coast hiking experience! Don’t just visit a place...experience it! hikebiketravel.com Island, ,

he West Coast Trail (WCT) Please take the time to read through all of the T is a physically demanding information. You will be in a better position to decide 75 kilometre (45 mile) hike • If this is actually the trail for you stretching from • Which trailhead you want to begin with in the south to Bamfi eld in • How many days you want to spend on the trail the north along the west coast • What else needs to be reserved with regards to of . It is only accommodation and transportation pre and post trip open on a seasonal basis (May • What to pack 1st until September 30th) and • Meal suggestions for good reason considering • Total costs the likelihood of poor weather outside of that timeframe. It is • Who you should hike with many things to many people - BEST THINGS ABOUT in fact up to 8,000 people who THE WEST COAST TRAIL annually hike this trail. There are • Beautiful sunsets on very scenic, remote feeling people who do this trail nearly beaches every summer and obviously • Eating fresh crab at Nitinat Narrows love it and then there are people • Every campsite is beautiful like me who have done it once. • Campfi res and waterfalls I would rather explore one of • Camaraderie on the trail • Sense of accomplishment the many trails I haven’t done upon completion yet. Your experience on the trail is going to refl ect your fi tness level, the weight in your pack, your gear, your group dynamics, the weather, the tides and your outlook. Read on and download everything you need to know about preparing for and hiking the WCT.

2 hikebiketravel.com SHOULD YOU HIKE THIS TRAIL? 10 Points to consider when planning your trip.

Only you can answer the Are you prepared to question. There are MANY deal with the very real factors to think about before 8possibility of bumping you commit to signing up. into a bear? Or a ?? Go through the list below and answer truthfully. If Do you like the you answer 1)no 2)poorly people in your 3)yes 4)no 5)badly 6)lousy 9 proposed group and 7)no 8)no 9)sort of 10)not how do you think the group good - in that order to the dynamics will play out questions below then begin over a week? Will there be backpacking with trails sharing of tent setup and that are shorter and easier. cooking duties? Do people Reconsider this trail in a move at similar speeds? few years time after you Do you have the same have gained the necessary goals? Are you on the same experience. It is a serious wavelength for starting undertaking!! times each day? How well do you communicate? Most importantly have you hiked AND camped before? If you are a great day hiker What happens if you are delayed one or two days for 1but you have never slept in a tent then this is NOT where whatever reason? How fl exible are your plans? If at all you should begin your camping experience. Conditions can become 10 possible leave an extra day at the end to allow more very uncomfortable very quickly. Temperatures can hover in the time if needed on the trail so you don’t have to rush – particularly hypothermia range for days (average summer temperature is 14C/57F) if you are fi nding it harder going than expected. The trail from at a time, especially early and late in the season and if you haven’t Gordon River to Walbran Creek is only 22 km (13.3 miles) long. It spent long nights in a cramped tent before you might fi nd the situation will take a solid 2 days to do this – REALLY! I couldn’t believe it uncomfortable. myself so allow for it.

How well do you deal with rain and mud? There are no weather guarantees on this trail at any time of the year. It is a trail through I hate to sound like the pessimist but if you are having some misgivings 2temperate rain forest!! If you are very unlucky with your timing before booking then I would encourage you to revisit this trip down you could have 6-7 days of rain in a row. Count on daily mud, up to the road. I personally found it to be one of the most challenging your knees in many places, even if it hasn’t rained in awhile. You will hiking trips of my life and I have hiked and backpacked extensively!! not stay clean if that is important to you. Even with only 2 nights of rain (out of 6) I did not enjoy the trail for the following reasons. Do you have any joint or back problems? Do not kid yourself that they are manageable because as the week rolls along • Mostly uninteresting walking through a lot of tree fall with rare additional strain is going to be severely placed on knees, feet, views to the ocean. Rainforest in my opinion is grossly overrated 3 for hiking though I do absolutely appreciate it for keeping me alive shoulders and your back. and breathing. Walking in the forest was in part due to the tide If you are considering doing this as a family are your children schedule so that beaches were largely off limits at the time I was older than 12? Children six and younger are not permitted on there. Beach walking would have been a big improvement though the trail and it really is not recommended for children younger miles of walking on sand isn’t easy either – though it is more 4 scenic. than 12. Realistically assess your child’s capabilities especially as it relates to physical and mental stamina. • Mud from start to fi nish, especially in areas where the trees have fallen over. I have heard from others in different years that they have How do you feel about heights? Ladders? Cable cars? There had little or no mud. It makes for very slow going in places. are some sections of the trail with copious numbers of ladders 5going straight up literally (or straight down) You must be able • Very sore feet (even in well broken in boots) and blistered to carry your own pack on these and get up and down them in a shoulders. timely manner as you can get a backlog of people in spots. • Although the beaches were truly beautiful for camping you are rarely alone and in fact some campgrounds can have as many How is your balance even with poles for support? There are as 50 people (such as Tsusiat Falls) – not actually my idea of a long sections of green, poorly maintained, uneven boardwalk wilderness experience. I guess you could still call it wilderness 6that are slicker than snot. Falls with the resultant injuries are but there certainly isn’t solitude and there are many groups of the most common problems and can be cause for an evacuation. 8-10 which do not have the same dynamic as the ones with Evacuation is not trivial. just 2-4 people. Some of the trail camaraderie is lost when encountering the bigger groups. Are you okay with using outhouses and forgoing hot showers? There are no modern facilities on the trail. If you aren’t used to 7‘roughing it’, you could be in for a long hike. hikebiketravel.com 3 STILL INTERESTED? GOOD FOR YOU You are going to go...NOW WHAT?

PLANNING AHEAD If you live further away than Vancouver or if you have a specifi c timeframe then making a reservation should factor high on your list. If you are fi scally challenged(you will save the reservation fee), fl exible and have one to two days to while away in Bamfi eld or Port Renfrew then you can be one of the ones that just walks on. Here is what to do: Shoulder Season: May 1 – June 14 and September 16-30. No reservations are necessary as the 52 person per day quota is rarely fi lled. Twenty six people are permitted to start every day from either the Gordon River Trailhead (a few miles from Port Renfrew) or the Trailhead (a short taxi ride from Bamfi eld). Peak Season: June 15- Sept 15. Five walk on spaces are allocated at each trailhead each day at 1pm on a fi rst come fi rst served basis. Register when you get to the trailhead at the WCT info center and cross your fi ngers you don’t have to wait. In the busy season be prepared for a 1-2 day delay. (We met single out your fi nish date (more on that later), abundant mud. (***This is a bigger potential people who decided a day ahead of time to transportation and accommodation issues. problem if you are coming all the way from hike and had no problem getting on when the Camper campsite. The Thrasher campsite they showed up – though travelling alone WHICH TRAILHEAD SHOULD is close enough so that meeting the fi nal 4pm is not recommended.) For people on a rigid boat crossing should not be a problem.) On schedule be prepared to phone as soon as the YOU START AT? SEE MAP PG. 8 the other hand if you are headed north and reservations are open (see below) and have a In my opinion it is far more complicated to have done the orientation the day before then credit card (Visa or Mastercard) handy to pay fi nish at the Gordon River trailhead unless you can take the 9am boat across and get a the reservation fee of $24.75 Canadian (2009 you simply want to catch a bus to Victoria very good start on your fi rst day. cost) per person in addition to the $127.50 at the end or someone has been kind enough Canadian (2009 cost) per trip per person. to meet you and provide the necessary Getting to the Gordon River Trailhead Reservations are available according to the transportation. I think it is easier logistically (southern start near Port Renfrew): following schedule: and mentally to start at the Gordon River There are numerous options. April 1 – for hikes starting anytime after trailhead in the south. 1. You can drive or someone really nice could June 14th drive you from Victoria which will take There is no right or wrong and there are approximately 2 hours using Highway 14. May 1 – for hikes starting anytime in July arguments for starting at either trailhead. We rented a car in (after getting June 1 – for hikes starting anytime in The thinking for beginning in the south at off the 10:00am ferry from Horseshoe Bay), August the Gordon Bay Trailhead is that you get the drove to Port Renfrew in time for the 3:30pm worst over with in the fi rst two days – the July 1 – for hikes starting anytime before orientation and left the car for 6 days at a worst being very challenging terrain and September 15th B&B. Driving time from Nanaimo is 3½ to somewhat heavier packs. That thinking might 4 hours. It is a more expensive option but lead you to believe that the trail becomes a offers the greatest fl exibility. If you are driving RESERVATION NUMBERS cakewalk as you get further north. Nothing from the Schwartz Bay ferry terminal allow (opens at 8am PST) could be further from the truth. Granted the 2½hours to get to Port Renfrew (south end). From within Canada and the US: last day from the Michigan Trailhead going 1-800-435-5622 north is much easier than your fi rst day 2. Catch the 6:30am West Coast Trail bus but let me assure you that easy is a relative (www.trailbus.com) at 700 Douglas Street From Vancouver: 604-435-5622 term on this trail. My suggestion is to base in downtown Victoria. It will have you at International: 1-250-387-1642 your decision on how you plan to get to the the Gordon River trailhead (south end) trailhead initially because that in and of itself at 9am, in time for orientation, for $55. When you phone for a reservation you will is not a trivial consideration. The other major Reservations are recommended and in fact need to tell the agent the date you want (have issue in my opinion is the timing of the boat required in peak periods. 2 alternates in case you can’t get your fi rst crossing at the Gordon River Trailhead (going 3. If you were planning to end at the Pachena choice), the trailhead you plan to start at south). The last boat crossing of the day is trailhead in Bamfi eld (north end) and and the number of hikers in your party. You at 4pm so if you miss that for any reason you wanted to leave a vehicle there for the will also need a mailing address so they can can plan on having a very uncomfortable fi nish then you could do one of two things. send you a packet of more information. Once night for there is very little space that is fl at You could catch a bus from the Pachena you have your start date you can then fi gure to even pitch a tent and if it is wet there is trailhead that would get you to the Gordon 4 hikebiketravel.com River trailhead (south end) by 4:30pm (good for camping) or Port Renfrew for 4:45pm (good for B&B’s). Then you could begin the next morning BUT be warned that this is a very uncomfortable bus ride over dusty logging roads. The other alternative is to catch a boat from Bamfi eld, the Juan de Fuca Express which leaves at 1 pm and gets into Port Renfrew approximately 3 hours later. This is a lovely thing to do as you are also likely to see whales, sea lions, bird colonies and the entire WCT from the boat. Book with Brian at 1-888-755-6578 or on the boat at 1-877-332-5333. He only accepts Visa and the charge per person is $99. If you are prone to seasickness bring some Gravol as you can end up in some huge waves. Also bring food and drink because nothing is provided. For more information check the following website- http://members.shaw.ca/berry5868/ juanfuca.htm.

Getting to the Pachena Bay Trailhead Hole In The Wall - Tsusiat Falls (northern start near Bamfi eld): 4. The M.V. Lady Rose could also be to allow yourself plenty of time to arrive at the Options for getting to the northern trailhead are considered. This boat is boarded in Port trailhead. The fi nish is underwhelming – a small as follows. Alberni so fi rst you need to get yourself building in an open fi eld and not a band in sight 1. You can drive from on logging there, either by driving or taking a bus. to beat out a congratulatory tune. roads to Bamfi eld. Expect that part of the The bus leaves from multiple cities. For drive to take about 2 hours. These are rough example you can leave the downtown PACHENA BAY (NORTHERN roads used by very large logging trucks. Victoria bus station at 7:30am, 11:45am or TRAILHEAD) TO GORDON RIVER, Many people are heard complaining that 4:45 pm and arrive 4 ½ hours later for $40 PORT RENFREW AND/OR VICTORIA their car has suffered damage using these if reserved ahead of time. You can also get • Catch the WCT Express bus (wwwtrailbus. roads. If you choose this route and you are to Port Alberni on a bus from Vancouver com) at 1:15 pm from Pachena Bay to driving a rental car make sure that you airport and the Nanaimo ferry terminal. Gordon River Trailhead, Port Renfrew and are covered for damages. Travel time from Check www.tofi nobusreserations.com for Victoria but make reservations ahead of Victoria to Port Alberni is approximately 3 more detailed information. The Lady Rose time. To Gordon River the cost is $70 per hours and it is about 1- 1 ½ hours from leaves on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday person and it arrives at 4:30pm. This bus Nanaimo. There is lots of parking at the (and on Sundays in July and August only) continues on to Victoria, arriving at 7pm Pachena Bay trailhead. at 8am and arrives in Bamfi eld at about and costs $80 per person. This is an easy 2. You can catch the 6:30am West Coast Trail 12:30pm. Needless to say this is not the option to return to a waiting car too. bus (www.trailbus.com) in downtown quick route but it is a scenic route and Victoria at 700 Douglas Street. You will unlike the boat between Bamfi eld and Port • The Pachena Bay to Port Renfrew trip reach the Pachena Bay trailhead at 12:15pm, Renfrew this one always leaves. The price can also be done using the Juan de Fuca in time for the 1:30 pm orientation if you per person one way is $33 and reservations express- a water taxi with a difference. To are planning to hike that day. The one way a few days before are a good idea. Call get to the dock in Bamfi eld take a taxi from cost is $80 and reservations are required. 1-250-723-8313. Once you reach Bamfi eld a the trailhead (the driver is usually hanging (The National Park people do recommend $10 taxi ride will get you to the trailhead. around waiting for people beginning mid that you allow 5 hours to get to the fi rst 5. The Pachena Bay Express shuttle van is morning) and if he isn’t there call 1-250- campsite. Orientation takes about 1 ½ hours another alternative for getting between 728-3285. He will get you into town and the so you wouldn’t be able to hit the trail until Port Alberni and Bamfi eld. The woman dock for about $5 each in not more than 3 pm, so even with lots of daylight you will who runs this can be reached at 1- 250- 10 minutes. Check in with Brian (the boat be pushing the limits!!) If you don’t start 728-1290. It is really only an option for a captain) and then you probably will have hiking that day then you could wait around larger group (of up to 12 people) as there a bit of time to walk the block back into until 3:30 pm for the next orientation or get is a set price of $250 one way. There is town and get some food and cold drinks. a lift into Bamfi eld, spend the night at a B&B however some fl exibility on the time of day The trip down to Port Renfrew will take at and catch the 9am orientation the next day. it will run. least 3 hours – but it will be much more than just a water taxi ride. Brian knows all 3. The Juan de Fuca Express is also a possibility GETTING HOME FROM THE the birds, the names of the whales and can going north. Brian’s boat leaves at 7am from TRAILHEADS speak at great length about the area. If it Port Renfrew and arrives in Bamfi eld about 3 is a sunny day you are truly in luck and it hours later for $99 per person, prepaid with Make sure you have dropped your permit off is a great feeling to watch the trail slip by a Visa only. Read the Gordon River trailhead in the box to show that you have safely exited so effortlessly from the confi nes of a boat. section above to get more of the details the trail. Once you get to Port Renfrew you may need on the boat. A reservation must be made to bum a lift from a local back to wherever because this trip doesn’t run every day and PACHENA BAY you left your car. if the weather is particularly ugly he might FINISH OPTIONS have to cancel. When booking the boat in PACHENA BAY TO NANAIMO either direction it is always a good idea to If you have planned well then you are probably have a Plan B in case of particularly stormy camping at the Michigan campsite, 12 kilometres • If you are trying to get back to Nanaimo weather. south from the fi nish. Get an early start (~7 am) then the best thing to have done was to hikebiketravel.com 5 have rented a car in Nanaimo and left it at the Gordon River trailhead or in Port Renfrew. When you fi nish hiking at Pachena Bay grab then grab the WCT express bus going south to arrive at 4:30pm at the Gordon River trailhead. Drive back to Nanaimo from there.

• There is supposed to be a WCT express bus from the Pachena Bay trailhead to Nanaimo but it runs so infrequently and needs a minimum of at least 4 people to do the trip that I wouldn’t count on it. The other issue is that it only runs a few days of the week so it becomes a bit of a logistical nightmare to arrange it.

PACHENA BAY TO PORT ALBERNI • The last possibility, though one I would also consider a poor choice, is to get a taxi from the trailhead to Bamfi eld and providing it is Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday (or Sunday in July and August) then catch the M.V. Lady Rose. It leaves at 1:30 from the dock • If you are prepared to spend the night in in Bamfi eld for the 3 ½ hour trip to Port Port Renfrew after completing the trail • Foot passenger only from Seattle Alberni. The trip can be booked ahead of then you could take the Juan de Fuca www.clippervacations.com/victoria_ time by calling 1 -250-723-8313 and the express boat at 7am the following morning. clipper_ferry_service ticket price will be $33 per person. Then you Brian’s boat will get you into Bamfi eld at • Car ferry from Anacortes www. can check in with the bus company (www. approximately 10:30am and then it would wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/schedules/ tofi nobusreserations.com) and plan the be a simple matter of getting the local current/index.cfm?route=ana-sid timing for getting to your next destination. taxi to drop you back at the Pachena Bay • Foot passengers only from Port Unfortunately the last bus of the day appears trailhead. Read the ‘Getting to the Gordon Angeles www.victoriaexpress.com/ to leave before the boat gets in so a night in River Trailhead’ to learn how to do it. welcome.html Port Alberni would be required. • Car ferry from Port Angeles http:// GORDON RIVER TO VICTORIA cohoferry.com/main/ CAR SHUTTLE - EITHER WAY • Foot passengers from Bellingham • After arriving at the Gordon River trailhead • Some people opt for a car shuttle with one www.whales.com/index.php/charters- you can catch the WCT bus back to Victoria car left at each trailhead. This may sound groups/victoria-star-2 at 4:30 pm for $55. You will be in downtown all right at the beginning of the trip but once Victoria for 7pm – with the hot shower, you are done I suspect you will just want cold beer and non freeze dried meal not far be dictated by how much vacation time you to get back to your car or your destination behind. Again make a reservation. have, your physical conditioning and the plans as quickly as possible. Count on a drive of of your group members. Although you do not about 4 hours from the Pachena Bay trailhead GORDON RIVER TO PORT ALBERNI need the answer to this question when you to get back to the Gordon River Trailhead to make the trail reservation you will need it to pick up your other car using the back roads • To get to Port Alberni use the options book your pre and post trail transportation and on rough terrain. This can obviously be done noted above to get back to Pachena Bay. lodging at some point. Typically people spend in either direction. Then providing again that it was Tuesday, 6-8 days on the trail though there are always Thursday, Saturday or Sunday in July and exceptions to the rule and you will likely meet GORDON RIVER August only catch the M.V. Lady Rose at a few people pulling it off in 4 -5 days. When 1:30 pm from Bamfi eld . Call 1-250-723- you stop to consider the number of days ask FINISH OPTIONS 8313 for more information and to make a yourself the following questions – The Gordon River fi nish is also an underwhelming reservation. experience though you do feel a bit more as • Are you in adequate shape to meet the though you are back in civilization. No bands GETTING TO VICTORIA rigours of a 6 day trip? here either! Victoria International Airport services fl ights • How heavy do you want your backpack to be? GORDON RIVER (SOUTHERN from all over Canada as well as Seattle, Every day hiking or resting adds more weight. TRAILHEAD) TO PACHENA BAY U.S.A. The ferries run many times a day • If it rains everyday are you willing to be on from the mainland. Check the website to the trail for up to 8 days? • If you have left you car at the Pachena Bay get sailing information. www.bcferries. • Is a rest day a requirement? trailhead at the north end of the WCT then com/ .There are buses that will take you the easiest way to return to it is via the to downtown Victoria from Schwartz Bay • How important is it to you to do the WCT Express bus. Unfortunately it doesn’t where the ferry docks. Once you get to beach walks? Unless you downloaded the leave Port Renfrew until 8:30am (9:00am Victoria just hook up with the WCT Express tide tables ahead of time to get the dates from the Gordon River trailhead) the next and you can get to either trailhead. exactly right then you may have to extend morning and you will be stuck (depending the hike to allow for the wait to safely You can also get to Victoria via passenger on your outlook) with another night in a walk the beach. tent though you could grab a B&B in Port and car ferries from Washington State. See Renfrew. The bus will have you in Pachena the list below and their links. • Do you have specifi c campsites that you Bay at 12:15 pm for $70. Make reservations How Many Days Should I Take?? want to camp at? That could also dictate at www.trailbus.com. The number of days you plan to hike may the number of days you will need. 6 hikebiketravel.com SAMPLE ITINERARIES Here are some sample itineraries based on 6, 7 and 8 days. The itineraries originate at the Gordon River trailhead in the south but they can be reversed. efore you begin you must attend an orientation session at either trailhead. Sessions last for 1 ½ hours and occur three times a day at 9:30am, 1:30pm and 3:30pm plus an additional one at noon at the Gordon River Trailhead. If you aren’t hiking that day then the only one B that you are permitted to attend is the one at 3:30 pm. You do not have to book them ahead of time, just show up with cash in hand ($30 Canadian) to prepay the boat ferry fees. (Check your registration packet to insure that those orientation times are valid for 2009) 6 Day Itinerary Day 1: Gordon River – Camper Bay – 13 VERY TOUGH kms Day 2: Camper Bay – Walbran Creek – 9 kms Day 3: Walbran Creek – Cribs Creek – 11 ½ kms Day 4: Cribs Creek Tsusiat Falls – 16 ½ kms Day 5: Tsusiat Falls – Michigan Creek – 13 kms Day 6: Michigan Creek – Pachena Bay trailhead – 12 kms

7 Day Itinerary Day 1: Gordon River – Thrasher Cove – 6 kms Day 2: Thrasher Cover – Camper Creek – 8-9 kms Day 3: Camper Creek – Walbran Creek – 9 kms Day 4: Walbran Creek – Cribs Creek – 11½ kms Day 5: Cribs Creek – Tsusiat Falls – 16½ kms Day 6: Tsusiat Falls – Michigan Creek – 13 kms Day 7: Michigan Creek – Pachena Boy Trailhead – 12 kms

8 Day Itinerary Day 1: Gordon River – Thrasher Cove – 6 kms Day 2: Thrasher Cover – Camper Creek – 8-9 kms Day 3: Camper Creek – Walbran Creek – 9 kms Day 4: Walbran Creek – Cribs Creek – 11½ kms Day 5: Cribs Creek – Tsusiat Falls – 16½ kms Day 6: Tsusiat Falls – Rest Day Day 7: Tsusiat Falls – Michigan Creek – 13 kms Day 8: Michigan Creek – Pachena Boy Trailhead – 12 kms

hikebiketravel.com 7 OTHER OPTIONS FOR THE 6 DAY • From Cribs Creek to Tsusiat Falls there • On Day 5 you could add another 2 ITINERARY INCLUDE: are no campsites, despite what some kilometres and make it to Klanawa River, maps have to say. At one point you could a very pretty site with few people. • Hike to Thrasher Cove on Day 1 (6 km). camp near the Cheewhat River but no • On Day 6 aim for the Darling River or Orange Enjoy the beach walk around Owen Point longer. No matter what you will have a Juice Creek campsites and enjoy some on Day 2. Continue on to Walbran Creek for very long Day 3 (going south) or Day 4 solitude. You can still make it out the next a total of 17 very hard kilometres. You have going north!! to be a hardcore, very fi t hiker to do this, or day in time for the bus with an early start. if you are truly fi t, hike to Bonilla Creek on OTHER OPTIONS FOR THE 7 DAY OTHER OPTIONS FOR THE 8 DAY day 2 thereby adding an additional 5 kms ITINERARY INCLUDE: ITINERARY INCLUDE: and making for a VERY tough day. • On Day 2 if you are particularly • An 8 day itinerary would include • If you would like fewer people then pushing energetic you could add an additional 4 one rest day. Generally people seem on to Klanawa River instead of Tsusiat Falls kilometres and make it as far as Cullite to spend it at Tsusiat Falls though be on Day 4 makes for a very long day but you Creek. Count on it being a long day if prepared for a lot of people at that will enjoy a peaceful campsite. you choose this option. campsite. Other rest day alternatives • On Day 5 a shorter day going north to • If you did make it to Cullite Creek on could include Cribs Creek, especially one of Tsocowis Creek, Orange Juice day two then a 10 kilometre hike to going south or Klanawa River, Creek or Darling River campsites will Bonilla Creek or a 12 kilometre hike especially if going north. fi nd you with far fewer people than at to Carmanah Creek will have you the Michigan campsite. Darling River camping away from the masses. This If you are nervous and sleepless thinking of and Orange Juice Creek in particular is a lovely section of the trail and will bears then opt for the well used campsites still permit you to make it out with an allow for a very relaxing hike to Crib’s (and stick to the suggested itineraries) since early morning rise. If you are heading Creek the next day or a hellishly long south from Michigan Creek the extra day getting to Tsusiat Falls. I would there is safety in numbers. The rangers do kilometres are among the easiest of the recommend taking your time here and keep a close eye on the bear situation and entire trip and can make the next day or enjoying Crib’s Creek especially if the will close problem campsites if necessary. two a tad easier. weather is lovely. 8 hikebiketravel.com NITINAT NARROWS – FINISH ONLY and dinner. Check ahead of time. An option The distance from Port Renfrew to the boat not mentioned on the website is the Port dock at the Gordon River Trailhead is a short At one time you could begin at the Nitinat Renfrew Hotel. They can be reached at 250- 5 minute drive. I would recommend lining Narrows but that is no longer an option. The 647-5541. It boasts a fi ne dining restaurant up a ride the night before because the walk Nitinat Narrows offers an evacuation point overlooking the water. would add on at least a few miles and you and it can still be a pre planned exit point. will need that energy reserve for later in the Water taxis need to be organized ahead of ** (I stayed at the Big Fish Lodge and I would have to disagree with the use of the word day. Ask your B&B or hotel if they are able to time through Water Taxi at offer you a ride. 1-250-745-3509. The necessary pre and post luxury in their description. We had a room transportation issues would also need to be with bunk beds that was so tiny that we could Forgotten supplies and last minute groceries in place. Either a car would have to be left at barely turn around. However, the owner was can be picked up at the general store on the northern end of the lake, where the road a very friendly guy who was kind enough to the highway going into town. There are is, ahead of time or one would have no supplies to purchase right at the to reserve a spot on the WCT express trailhead. If you have driven your car, bus going in whatever direction works DO NOT LEAVE HOME it can be left at the trailhead for $30 per best for you. Planning ahead of time week. Call 1-250-647-0038 to arrange for this option will require some work. WITHOUT THE FOLLOWING this ahead of time. Some of the B&B’s Very few people choose this exit unless Your pack should weigh no more than might also be kind enough to allow forced to because of some sort of 30-35% of your body weight!!!!! you to park your car at their place for emergency. a small fee. • Backpack + rain cover The northern section of the trail affords • Tent + waterproof fl y CONSIDERATIONS the most amount of beach walking • Stove + LOTS of fuel + matches + 2 lighters Bamfi eld is a small community of about without having to concern yourself • Sleeping bag (packed in plastic or waterproof bags) 200 people at the north end of the WCT ahead of time with the tide charts. • Thermarest-closed cell type and is situated at the end of a logging Therefore I would recommend if hiking • Lightweight pot/pan/coffee fi lter road on an inlet of . It from north to south, camping at Tsusiat • Plate/bowl/cutlery/mug/sharp knife is a 5-10 minute drive to the start of Falls and pulling out at the Nitinat • 1-2 water bottles the WCT at the Pachena Bay trailhead. Narrows if you choose to leave at the • Water fi lter or purifi cation tablets Nearby beach camping is available halfway point. Count on hiking for three • Biodegradable soap + scrubby for $25 through the Huu-ay-aht First days and picking up the water taxi at the • Well broken in waterproof boots Nations Administration offi ce. Phone to end of the third day. Camping options • Gaiters book at 250-728-1287. Otherwise refer near Nitinat Narrows are nonexistent. If • Teva like scandals for camp to the Chamber of Commerce website you are coming from the south Crib’s • 2-4 pairs of socks to get a wider choice of lodgings Creek will be your logical choice of • Quick dry pants – good if they zip off to shorts including some fi shing lodges which campground before exiting. • Long underwear/warm hat/mitts will provide a room for a night. www. BOOKING TRANSPORTATION • Full rain gear – top/bottom and hat bamfi eldchamber.com/directory.html • 3-6 pairs underwear There is a general store in town to pick and ACCOMMODATION • 1-2 quick dry turtlenecks If you have read through the ‘getting up last minute items as nothing in the • 1-2 quick dry t-shirts to the trailhead’ section and you have way of food is available at the trailhead. • Windproof fl eece jacket picked your starting point then you Cappuccinos, lunches and dinners are • Quick dry towel should have enough information to all available at the Boardwalk Bistro. • Headlamp with extra batteries make any transportation decisions. It Most of the resorts offer meals too. • Sunscreen, chapstick, sunhat would be a good idea to fi nd out what • Extra Ziploc bags, toilet paper, garbage bag happens to your reservation if you don’t PACKING • Travel size toiletries, mirror show up because of some unexpected The weight of your pack will directly • Personal medications delay on your part. Also fi nd out how infl uence your enjoyment of the trail. • First aid kit with lots of bandages, moleskin, Advil, much you might forfeit if you cancel or Keep everything to a minimum but also Benadryl, antibiotic ointment, tensor bandage, become a no show. be sure to include everything that is on antiseptic wipes, splint, roll of gauze, gloves the ‘DO NOT LEAVE HOME’ without PORT RENFREW • Waterproof map + tide tables + permits + money in a list. I highly recommend trying out all CONSIDERATIONS waterproof bag of your equipment beforehand. In fact Port Renfrew is a small community • Food for the number of days on the trail + 1 emergency don’t even think of starting out if you of approximately 300 people, located day + 25’ of rope if you need to hang food don’t know how to put up your tent at the end of Highway 14. It is at the • Sunglasses, reading glasses, extra contacts, watch or use your stove... There should be southern end of the WCT and only a OPTIONAL no surprises on your fi rst night out. fi ve minute drive to the Gordon River • Bear spray Last year at the Michigan campsite I Trailhead. For many WCT hikers • Camera, cell phone (it will work in places especially watched in total disbelief as two very this will be your last contact with with Telus) inexperienced women starting pitching civilization for up to a week. There is • Hiking poles/Yactrax (for the slimy boardwalks) their tent in the dark almost beside the a limited range of options and price • Insect repellent toilets. They had got in late and were points for accommodation ranging • Reading and writing material obviously exhausted after the easiest from small B&B’s to fi shing lodges that • Guidebook section of the trail. Their packs were are happy to cater to hikers for only • Tarp similar to day packs with cotton clothes one night. Prices start at about $125 • Down vest hanging off every which way. They for two. The Port Renfrew Community were reading the instructions on how website, www.portrenfrewcommunity.com/ drive us to the trailhead and who made us a to put up the tent when some young man businesses.htm is a useful place to fi nd the very reasonably priced dinner - $20 for a large fi nally came and helped. It had taken them 8 type of accommodation to fi t your budget. piece of halibut. The lodge has lovely views, a hours to walk 12 kilometres. It was apparent Camping is also an option and is within comfortable lounge area but the rooms could in to everyone out there that they were out of walking distance of the trailhead. Some of the no way be described as luxurious and in fact in their league. Get the experience on some accommodations will provide both breakfast my opinion are overpriced at $149 and up)** easier trails fi rst!! hikebiketravel.com 9 MEALS People approach food from many different perspectives. It is an emotionally charged issue at the best of times and when you are hungry and tired perhaps even more so. Some hikers eat only to replenish energy reserves while others look forward to a well planned meal that can give you a real mental boost after a tough day. If you are with a group it would be helpful if you were all thinking along the same lines so discuss food issues and meal preparation before you go. I have found it to be helpful on my many backpacking trips to plan breakfast and dinners as a group and let everyone fend for themselves for lunch and snacks. Obviously if there are only two of you there is no need for both of you to bring peanut butter (as an example) so use a good dose of common sense. Here are some meal suggestions that have worked well for me. I also suggest a trip to your local Mountain Equipment Co-op, camping store or the convenience section of your grocery store for some lightweight meals if you are not inclined to put much energy into this part of the trip. Everyone should also bring enough food for one extra day in case an unexpected emergency arises. Lunch Stop at Nitinat Narrows Breakfasts: cranberries, mango, apricots.... coleslaw will last at least 2 days. ** This is usually a quick, simple affair so you can get moving. Caffeine seems to be Luna bars/Lara Bars/Power bars – bring an If you are a big meat eater you may have some important for most people so get water boiling assortment so you don’t get sick of them. I diffi culty. Freeze dried meals might be the as soon as you get up. *** usually allow 1 per day + a few extra best way for you to go since carrying canned tuna or meat is not an option and the bears Cookies – e.g. Fig Newtons, but ones that Coffee, tea, hot chocolate and powdered will be loving the smell of your garbage. Pick don’t break easily. Make homemade cookies milk are always staples. You can buy a very out 5-7 meals at your local camping store and before you go. lightweight coffee fi lter that takes up almost you are done. Some will be palatable and a few no room and makes one cup at a time. It is Candy – hard ones to suck on, licorice, perhaps will taste like cardboard but there is easier if everyone has their own as they weigh gummi bears, jellybeans, yogurt covered always dessert. I would recommend trying out in at only a few ounces. raisins or nuts, chocolate bars or one of your a few ahead of time to see if you like them. favourites Instant porridge + brown sugar or maple syrup Other meal possibilities: Before Dinner – especially on a cold day: Granola + skim milk powder Macaroni and cheese Cup of soup, tea or hot chocolate Pancakes + maple syrup or jam (I buy a mix Falafels (buy a dried mix and add water) fry that only needs water or milk but no eggs) Dried juice mixes like Gatorade, crystal light and throw in pita bread or tortillas with hot + a small amount of oil for frying. This is a on hot days and for hiking sauce, hummous from a mix and cabbage. better breakfast for a shorter hiking day. Beer or wine after visiting Chez Moniques - Pesto (in a tube or dried) and pasta with extra Lunch and snacks: a restaurant close to Carmanah Lighthouse at parmesan cheese (+ add cut up sundried Carrot sticks, broccoli fl orets and celery sticks km 44. If you don’t have a corkscrew, have tomatoes) the wine opened for you at Chez Moniques for the fi rst day or two only Thai noodle dish – premade form the grocery and decant it into one of your water bottles. GORP (good old raisins and peanuts) make store Chips – maybe once (because of volume) your own or buy premade; add chocolate bits Chickpea curry and rice – buy premade and extra dried fruit. Bring lots, a minimum or crackers with olive spread from a tube, of ½ cup per day. reconstituted hummous, cheese Tortillas with refried beans (reconstituted) and rice + hot sauce Tortillas (check expiry dates) - spread with Dinner: peanut/almond butter and jam. Just roll up Day 1 only – freeze ahead of time something Pasta with a sundried tomato sauce – buy and allow 1-2/day per person. that travels well like stew or curry + quick a packaged sauce and add dehydrated mushrooms and sundried tomatoes Tortillas with hard cheese (keeps for much cooking rice. longer unrefrigerated) and pepperoni/salami This past summer there were rave reviews for Soup + tortillas with melted cheese Fresh bread with your favourite spread for the a premade wild rice salad (in a Ziploc bag) + Dessert: fi rst few days sausages for frying + bagged coleslaw with Treat yourself to some squares or bars that a sesame oil dressing. Dinner was ready in are capable of lasting close to a week such as Beef or turkey jerky about 8 minutes! Tabouli salad works well date, pecan or raspberry bars. too and can be bought dry. Just add water Pita pockets – small or regular size with Rice krispie squares are good for the fi rst few and a chopped tomato. Steaks on Day 1 work hummous on day 1 or peanut butter/jam days too. combinations later (freeze and vacuum pack ahead of time)but chicken in the heat is not recommended. In planning your meals insure that you have Dried fruit such as pears, peaches, prunes, Bagged Caesar salad is good on Day 1 and enough calories, you are taking foods that you 10 hikebiketravel.com like to eat and that the weight is minimized are also long stretches of boardwalk which at – dehydrated instead of fresh whenever times is lovely though much of it is in a state of possible. Reduce packaging before you leave disrepair with long stretches that are particularly and burn any paper or cardboard on the trail. slippery and green in addition to being tilted on Pack the plastics out. Leave no trace. Fires an angle with loose and missing boards. Watch should only be made on the beach, preferably your foot placement here. below the high tide line. There are real highlights to be had while walking Special Note At Nitinat Narrows if your timing the beach and rock shelves. The kilometres are is good, you can opt for a fresh crab for $20. harder to gauge on the beach and for the most That will end up being lunch. part seem to disappear faster than when in the Chez Moniques is just south of Carmanah woods. There is a long stretch of beach walking Lighthouse near Kilometre 44. It offers huge between Vancouver Point (near km 52) and burgers, pie, fruit and assortment of drinks. the Carmanah Lighthouse (km 44). If you are It isn’t cheap but it is a lovely change from walking north the Carmanah Lighthouse is a what you will have been eating. Cash only at great focal point and well before that there are both places! some interesting tide pools. The Hole in the Wall, a natural sandstone arch, is a picture worthy COSTS site near Tsusiat Point. Hiking a little further on will bring you to Tsusiat Falls, probably the Fixed costs are as follow on a per person basis most beautiful and well used campsite on the for 2009. All costs are in Canadian dollars. trip. North of Klanawa River there are again Go to www.xe.com to convert your currency. some lovely sections of beach and if you have Reservations - $24.75 the time walking out on the shelves may reward Trail fee - $127.50 you with sightings of some very interesting tide Boat ferry fees – paid in cash when you get pool inhabitants. I would recommend the beach the permit - $30 walking over the forest route whenever possible. Transportation costs – getting on and off the Severe winds may be the one factor that pushes trail + getting to the gateway of Victoria, you back to the forest trails. Nanaimo, Port Alberni or Vancouver There are marker signs every kilometre – Accommodation – you may be able to camp ‘Blisters and Bliss – A Trekker’s Guide to the though, either the odd one is missing or my at the trailheads but in all likelihood you will West Coast Trail’ by David Foster and Wayne eyes were so focussed on the trail or the slimy Aitken is probably the defi nitive guide now in boardwalk that a few went unnoticed. Do be have at least 1 nights motel/hotel costs along th the way its 5 edition. It is a good read but do you need mentally prepared if you are fearful of heights to bring it with you?? I would say yes if you that there are a good few hundred feet of ladders Food – you have to eat but extra restaurant want to really plan each day ahead of time but on either side of Cullite Creek. If you need more meals before and after + Chez Monique’s if you like an element of surprise then leave it time on ladders and a big group is approaching and fresh crab at Nitinat Narrows at home. The map provided by the park service be courteous and allow others to go ahead. is excellent – all beach access points, creeks, Absolute bare minimum - $332.25 per person If you are using poles you don’t need to headlands, camping spots, Indian reservations, allowing for transportation to and from remove them but you do need to be cognizant markers, tide concerns, shipwreck locations, Victoria by bus but no restaurant meals of where they are so they don’t get hooked and more are there for you to see. You do on trees or ladders. Cable cars also can get not need any other maps!! You should have OUTFITTERS backlogged. Only two passengers at a time are enough information to know what you are The only outfi tters that I am aware of at permitted. Help out the group in front of you getting yourself into after downloading and the time of posting this are The University as it can be a strenuous job getting in and out reading this eguide, reading the packet provided of Calgary Outdoor Club at https://pr1web. with your packs. Keep fi ngers from the by the National Park and getting updated trail AWAY ucalgary.ca/CamRecWebPublic/Event/ cable while in motion. Also watch long hair information from the orientation session. You EventList.aspx and they run 3 trips a summer. and any clothing that might get caught up in will also get information relating to current bear ($1500 per person) the cable. and cougar sightings at the orientation and Also www.bikehike.com runs 3 trips a what their current thinking is at relates to really SAFETY CONCERNS summer. ($1899 +5%GST per person) running into one of these animals. A little bit of common sense will go along Please feel free to contact me if you know of The actual trail winds its way through kilometres way on this trail. More evacuations occur on any other organizations offering WCT trips this trail than just about any other in North for a fee to the public and I will post them. of cedar, hemlock and spruce. In the storm of 2006 a massive number of trees came down as America and they are logistically diffi cult to There are lots of groups (maximum 10 people) I am sure they do every winter. This has played accomplish. When I was there last summer that hike such as youth groups, other outdoor havoc with the trail in places as there are now beginning in the second week of August there clubs and church groups but perhaps because of big mud holes where once these lovely trees had been over 100 evacuations. Go back to the diffi culty, few “for profi t” companies want to stood. There are very few fl at sections. The trail the fi rst set of questions in this guide and take on the onerous task of getting clients safely tends to be more rolling though going north ensure that you meet the necessary criteria to from Point A to B under tough conditions. from the Gordon River trailhead it does a lot hike this trail. of climbing, topping out only 4 kilometres from Listed below are some suggestions to stay safe. OTHER ISSUES the start. Don’t be fooled though – there will be plenty of climbing with the sheer number of • Take your time with your footing, especially THE ROUTE ITSELF ladders alone. The hike going north from Crib’s on slippery boardwalks, over logs and It would be hard to get lost on this route Creek is especially nice as the woods are more around tree roots. A simple fall can mean though beach access points (marked by buoys open and there are several kilometres of very the end of your trip. Poles can come in very in the trees) can easily be missed if you aren’t fl at walking in more open trees, without mud!! handy for balance as can Yactrax – designed attentive. There are full guidebooks detailing The trail in the woods north of the Carmanah for ice and snow but effective on slime. the trail, the history and alerting you to the Lighthouse has some very pretty views and a They get put on over your boot and allow lighthouses and any other points of interest. well placed bench to enjoy the sights. There you to grip the surface you are walking on hikebiketravel.com 11 better and with more confi dence. droppings and tracks. If the droppings are still DOGS • If you start to get a blister stop immediately steaming make huge amounts of noise and The WCT does not permit dogs at all. and attend to it before it becomes a bigger stick together!! Generally make some noise problem. and perhaps carry bells. MONEY It is best to load up on cash before you get to • On ladders keep 3 points of contact at all times rarely attack and if they do, they pick Port Renfrew or Bamfi eld. Neither town has – 2 hands and a leg or 1 hand and 2 legs. smaller bodies like kids or smaller women. a bank though there is an ATM machine in The chances of slipping and falling off will be If you happen on one make yourself appear The Tides and Trails Market in Bamfi eld with greatly reduced if you adhere to that rule. Make larger by fl apping your arms or waving a limited funds and another ATM at the Port sure all the rungs are in place. Some ladders are stick, back away slowly and make noise. Renfrew marina. in bad shape and missing a rung. Also avoid eye contact and if they attack fi ght back. • Watch where you step on the boardwalk. Bears can become a problem when they OTHER TRIP IDEAS Many boards are rotting, missing or are Fees are one of the major detractions of the are surprised or if you are unlucky enough loose. Step as close to the sides of the trail, especially for families. Consider one of to come between the mother and her cubs. boardwalk as possible when they are the choices listed below which do not require Leave the bear an exit. Back away slowly, talk rotted; avoid stepping in the middle of a reservations but are along the same vein as calmly (yeah right!!) and make no sudden rotting board in case you go through. Also the WCT. beware of loose boards that kick up when movements. If they do attack, curl up into the • The 35 km very strenuous Nootka Island the pressure is applied at the end. fetal position and protect your neck with your hands. Pray for it to end quickly. Hopefully Trail on the western edge of Nootka Island, • Never think that you can beat the tide. That others in your group can draw the bear’s further north and off the west coast of is a sure way of getting stuck and even attention away from you. Seek medical help if Vancouver Island. “cliffed” out. Without ropes in places you necessary. Sightings let alone attacks are rare • The 180 km Sunshine Coast Trail which can would be at the mercy of the ocean. but if you are agonizing over the possibility of be hiked in sections www.sunshinecoast- • Do not cross surge channels. Listen to what running into a bear you might want to choose trail.com/. It is on the mainland in the the rangers have to say. They are giving you another trail. Powell River area. advice for a reason. An example would be • The 47 km Juan de Fuca trail just south the surge channel at Adrenaline Creek. It TIDE TABLES of the WCT which can be done as a 4 day is recommended that you stay in the forest The Park people will give you a waterproof hike or just as a number of day trips www. and avoid the beach in this area altogether map at your orientation session and include juandefucamarinetrail.com/ because of the danger. the relevant tide chart for the following 8 days. They will also ensure that you know how to • The newly opened stretching • Arrive in camp before nightfall – which read the tide chart in conjunction with the across the northern tip of Vancouver Island shouldn’t be hard with long days in the maps. Of note is the fact that you have to add for 58 kilometres www. summer. one hour to the times listed. If however you wildcoastmagazine.com/NorthCoastTrail2. • Thoroughly put out campfi res – with water are keen to get the tide chart before you even htm. It is described as what the WCT was and lots of it. Last year a man had just make a reservation then download it off of the 20 to 30 years ago. fi nished hiking for the day and stopped to following website www.waterlevels.gc.ca/cgi- Costs involved in the alternate trails will still take his shoes off on one of the beaches. bin/tide-shc.cgi?queryType=showZone&lang involve transportation fees but there are no He ended up walking on the sand which uage=english®ion=1&zone=11 Look for user or reservation fees associated with them. covered a smouldering fi re. Somehow he the Pacifi c Region and then fi nd Bamfi eld or Some trails like the Juan de Fuca trail have a managed 2nd and 3rd degree burns on the Port Renfrew. By studying the tide chart with $5/night per person campsite fee. soles of his feet and had to be evacuated an adequate map ahead of time you will be better able to plan your trip and take advantage The Sunshine Coast and Juan de Fuca • Avoid hiking alone. If you are hurt or have of favourable tides to do more beach walking trails permit dogs on a leash but suggest an emergency on your own the danger at a more convenient hour. that you do not bring them, especially increases. For example – To get around Owen Point on in light of the possibility of running into • Go upstream from any bathing or washing the beach, close to Thrasher Cove, the tides bears or cougars. Dog lovers at least have for your water and fi lter it. must be below 6 ft/1.8m. Ideally you will then the option on those trails. • Use the outhouses wherever possible. want a low tide fi rst thing in the morning if Otherwise dig a 6 inch hole and bury your you are leaving Thrasher Cove and heading CONTACT NUMBERS waste. Pack out or burn the toilet paper. north. What happened to me was the low tide BC Weather: www.theweathernetwork. was at noon which meant that we couldn’t com/weather/cabc0221 • Do not eat any shellfi sh as there are leave until late in the morning and then we occasional cases of Paralytic Shellfi sh would have been hurrying to the Camper Trail Reservations: (opens at 8am PST) Poisoning in the summer months. campsite. It is also not a trivial walk on the From within Canada and the US: • Keep all food, toiletries and garbage in the boulders getting around Owen Point and it 1-800-435-5622 metal bear proof boxes. Do not cook or eat isn’t a place that you want to be rushed. If From Vancouver: 604-435-5622 near your tent. you are hiking from Camper or Cullite and International: 1-250-387-1642 going south plan ahead of time to catch a low • Know the signs of hypothermia which is Juan de Fuca Boat Taxi: Brian at 1-888- tide later in the afternoon. If you are fl exible more likely to occur when it is cold and wet about walking on the beach or in the woods it 755-6578 or on the boat at 1-877-332-5333 which is much of the time on the trail. Treat doesn’t matter but if you want as much beach even mild hypothermia immediately. Keep West Coast Trail Express Bus: walking as possible then take the time and do hydrated and eat regularly. www.trailbus.com the necessary research. 1-877-999-2288 in Canada or 1-250-477-8700 WILDLIFE **You can always hike down a series of ladders BC Ferries: www.bcferries.com/ Encounters with black bears are a distinct to get to Thrasher Cove if you are heading south possibility on this trail. There are no grizzly though you will miss the hike around Owen Pacifi c Rim National Park in : bears on Vancouver Island. Cougar sightings Point. You could however do it strictly as an out 1-250-726-3500 are much rarer. Always be alert for fresh and back exercise without your pack. **** or email [email protected]

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