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$2.99 VOLUME 71, NUMBER 10 FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 70 YEARS Ports Still Clogged With Waiting Ships By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor

Hammering out a tentative contract with longshore work- ers took nine months of negotiations. Now importers are hop- ing it doesn’t take as long to clear the backlog of merchandise floating on the water outside the country’s largest ports, in and Long Beach. The number of cargo-container ships parked beyond the breakwater off the Port of Los Angeles and the Port of Long Beach reached a recent all-time high of 27 vessels on Feb. 23. That was three days after a tentative contract agreement was announced between the International Longshore and Ware- house Union and the Pacific Maritime Association—rep- resenting the shipping lines and port terminal operators who employ them. By Feb. 26 the number of waiting cargo container ships was still at 27. ➥ Port page 2

FORD IN LA: Designer Tom Ford drew a high-profile crowd to his Autumn/Winter 2015 Womenswear runway show, held Feb. 20 at Milk Studios in Los Angeles. Many attendees, such as Jennifer Lopez, Fires pictured above, wore pieces from the designer’s recent collections. Creative Director and Adds CHARLEY GALLAY/GETTY Two New Executives By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor A Solar-Powered Factory Helps Bella+Canvas Nearly two months after Paula Schneider took over as the new head of American Apparel, she has fired the com- pany’s longtime creative director, Iris Alonzo. Maintain Domestic Production This is the second firing for Alonzo, who was dismissed By Julie Gallego Contributing Writer that time there were really no greater companies than Gap, last June allegedly for being affiliated with ousted Ameri- Levi’s or Esprit. They were all in San Francisco. There was can Apparel founder and former CEO Dov Charney. Bella+Canvas started out as a company dedicated to mak- no greater inspiration for us,” Harris said. But Alonzo was rehired in October to retake a job she ing T-shirts in the —a business model that hasn’t Today, Bella+Canvas has more than 400,000 square feet had held for more than a decade. changed much even as other manufacturers have headed over- of manufacturing space and 800 employees in Commerce, According to Alonzo’s attorney, Keith Fink, the creative seas. Calif., an industrial area southeast of downtown Los Angeles. director was fired after she retained him as her lawyer to The knitwear maker was founded in 1992 by high school In 2008, Bella+Canvas—using state subsidies—got rid of recuperate benefits and money she believes American Ap- (and still) best friends Danny Harris and Marco DeGeorge. its lightbulbs and converted to a solar-powered manufactur- parel owed her. The pair, who grew up in Los Gatos, a suburb of San Fran- ing facility that includes bi-weekly yoga classes and workout cisco, launched the company as a private label. ➥ American Apparel page 2 “We were very interested in and design, and at ➥ Bella+Canvas page 5 INSIDE: OBITUARY Henry T. Segerstrom, Founder of South Coast Plaza, 91 By Andrew Asch Retail Editor as well. Henry T. Segerstrom, developer of South Coast Plaza, the Currently, South Coast Plaza is the address of retailers rang- retail center that brought Rodeo Drive luxury to Orange Coun- ing from heritage brands Louis Vuitton, Prada and Chanel to ty, Calif., died Feb. 20 at his home in Newport Beach, Calif., department stores Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue and fast- 4 5 after a brief illness. The death was announced by C.J. Seger- fashion emporiums , H&M and Forever 21/XXI For- strom & Sons, the owner and manager of South Coast Plaza. ever. It regularly receives international shopping tourists from Segerstrom built South Coast Plaza during a time of transi- China, , and . It claims to be the Las Vegas trade show coverage tion for Orange County, when it was changing from an agricul- highest-grossing retail center in the U.S., with annual sales in ... pp. 3, 6, 7, 8, 9 tural area to a region of tract homes and office towers. It was excess of $1.7 billion, according to a South Coast Plaza state- increasing in sophistication in business, the fine arts and retail ➥ Segerstrom page 2 CIT’s Steinberg on her next moves ... p. 4

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Segerstrom Continued from page 1 Saban Launching Arts Center on part of that land. In 2006, ment. It also is one of the only family- the Renée and Henry Segerstrom Con- held retail centers in the United States. cert Hall opened. (The concert hall was mm named after Segerstrom and his second Macbeth Apparel Segerstrom was working as a real wife, Renée, who passed away in 2000.) It estate developer in the 1960s when he is currently home to the Pacific Sympho- Saban Brands announced this month started considering building a mall on a ny. In 2011, the arts campus was renamed that its Macbeth property, which is head- lima-bean field in Costa Mesa, Calif. the Segerstrom Center for the Arts. quartered in Carlsbad, Calif., has struck two South Coast Plaza opened in 1967. It “Segerstrom changed people’s lives new licensing deals. was anchored by a May Co. store and a in Orange County,” said Shaheen Sade- Mercer House Inc., headquartered in Sears. The Sears is still doing business at ghi, the chief executive officer of Lab Montreal, has the global rights for Mac- the retail center. Holding LLC, which developed, owns beth’s footwear and North American rights He later recruited retailers such and manages The Lab and The Camp to its apparel. North Hill, an Australian as Bullocks, I. Magnin and Nordstrom to specialty shopping centers, which are less company, was awarded rights to make and the center and European fashion houses than a five-minute drive from South Coast sell Macbeth clothes in and New and designer boutiques. Plaza. Zealand. The line has already been picked Segerstrom was a World War II vet- “What he did, he did first class,” Sade- up by upscale Australian department store eran who was wounded in the Battle of ghi said. “He raised the bar for all of us. David Jones. the Bulge. He was a graduate of Stan- He had one mall, and it happened to be Macbeth footwear and apparel were dis- ford University and a patron of the arts. the best, as opposed to a large portfolio played at the Agenda trade show in Las In 1976, he donated to the South Coast of mediocre malls like his competitors.” Vegas, which ran Feb. 16–18. Mercer is Repertory Theater land that his family His survivors include his wife Eliza- producing Macbeth printed T-shirts and had farmed in Costa Mesa. In 1980, he beth; his children, Andrea, Toren and An-

footwear. North Hill will produce Macbeth led a $74 million fundraising campaign YOUSEF KARSH ton; six grandchildren; and seven great- apparel that the company hopes to place at to build the Orange County Performing Henry Segerstrom grandchildren. ● better department stores. Macbeth’s music- and streetwear-in- spired apparel line includes fleece, leather Continued from page 1 our economy moves,” he said. “We are going jackets and caps and T-shirts for men, Port to work seven days a week around the clock.” Krauss said. Women’s footwear and apparel In a press conference convened Feb. 23 at In previous months, the longshore workers will be launched in Spring ’16. the decommissioned battleship USS Iowa near had been accused of staging a work slowdown Macbeth was started by Thomas De- the Port of Los Angeles, both sides vowed to by not sending in enough qualified crane op- Longe, a guitarist and singer for Blink 182, clear the mound of merchandise sitting for erators to expedite clearing the docks. That set a band whose songs ranked on Billboard weeks and months on ships or docks. Port offi- the stage for tense labor negotiations in San charts. The inspiration for Macbeth’s cials noted it could take as long as three months Francisco. Toward the end, a federal mediator clothes were DeLonge’s indie and punk to clear the backlog. and U.S. Labor Secretary Tom Perez were dis- SIZING DOWN: A sign recently posted in a friends. Bobby Olvera Jr., president of ILWU Local patched to hammer out a deal. Payless shoe store in Whittier, Calif. Many of the shoes are “vegan” and do 13, with 7,000 members working at the Los A tentative labor agreement was announced not use leather for most of its models. In its Angeles/Long Beach port complex, assured ev- on Feb. 20. Both sides vowed to get back to place canvas, nylons and synthetic leather eryone that the longshore workers were ready work while ILWU and PMA members analyze Then there are local membership meetings are used. to rev up again. “We are committed now and the contract and vote on it. and a secret ballot to ratify the agreement. Mer- —Andrew Asch long-term to making sure these cans move and ILWU spokesman Craig Merrilees said the rilees said the process can take several months, union first must have a caucus meeting of the 90 but work will continue as if there were a con- elected delegates from the 29 West Coast ports tract in place. Visit us covered by the contract. The caucus meets for The new contract, covering nearly 20,000 a week to review the tentative agreement and workers, is for five years, replacing the previous L.A. Textileat the and ● Factory Direct decides whether to recommend it to members. six-year contract, which expired on July 1. Shows American Apparel Continued from page 1

“When she was fired [the first time], Char- will be in charge of optimizing the Los An- Free Seminar Series ney loaned her $30,000,” Fink said. “Part of geles company’s digital marketing, data ana- the agreement of her coming back was that lytics and e-commerce strategies. & Open House she would be reimbursed the $30,000 to pay Prior to joining the company, he was vice Dov back. But they never paid her back the president of data science at Tillster, which $30,000.” was in charge of customer-engagement pro- During L.A. Textile Week He added that she allegedly was prom- grams for the restaurant industry. Stephens is All seminars will be held at the ised American Apparel stock, but that did also a published scientist and was a molecu- California Market Center, 110 E. 9th St., Los Angeles, CA 90079 not happen. lar biologist in the biotech industry. Refreshments will be served. Fink said that on Monday, Feb. 16, he The second addition is Cynthia Erland, Visit www.aims360.com for full seminar details called American Apparel’s Chelsea Grayson, who comes on board as senior vice presi- the company’s general counsel and senior dent of marketing. She will oversee the vice president, about the issues. “My belief company’s marketing and communications Understanding Costing & EDI Made Simple is that Iris was fired in retaliation for these programs. Erland most recently was senior Gross Margins Tue., March 3, 11:00 am complaints,” Fink said. marketing executive at Perry Ellis Interna- Monday, March 2, 11:00 am Presented by AIMS 360, Progressive Praising Alonzo for her creative tal- tional and before that at C&C California, Presented by Henry Cherner Label and Innovative Systems ent was Mathew Swenson, who worked as Universal Studios and E! Network. Located FBI, Ste. A792 Located AIMS360, Ste. A1169 head of public relations and marketing at “Both are innovators with deep exper- Gain an understanding of the mark If you plan to do business with the manufacturer between 2004 and tise working with established brands,” said up principles applied as a retailer major department stores, join us and 2008. He is the founder of IntelligenceLA. Schneider, who took on the job of American or manufacturer and how these learn from the EDI experts. They will “Iris played a very important role in de- Apparel’s chief executive in early January. principles are critical to profitability. discuss topics such as the GS1 ID veloping the ethical and creative mission of “They will be an important addition to our This seminar will explain the best number, UPC numbers, UPC cata- American Apparel during the 11 years she experienced, creative and passionate team.” options for implementing costing logs, basic EDI transactions such as was there and continued to work to preserve Schneider is trying to lead American Ap- formulas/principles to realize gross purchase order, advance ship notice, the integrity even after Dov’s departure,” he parel into profitability after a tumultuous margin profitability. and the invoice, mapping and trans- noted. few years for the company, which has been lating, service bureaus, and VANs. Also dismissed was Marsha Brady, who racking up big debt in recent years. Since worked as a creative director under Alonzo. 2000, American Apparel has accumulated However, sources close to American Ap- more than $300 million in net losses. AIMS Meet & Greet parel, who wished to remain anonymous, Charney founded the company in 1997 Tue., March 2 and Wed., March 3, 10 am – 4 pm said this was not the case. Alonzo was fired and grew the company into the largest ap- Located AIMS360, Ste. A1169 in an effort to build the right team for the parel factory in the United States. He started Come meet the AIMS team and learn more about the industry’s leading apparel company going forward. out with blank T-shirts and expanded into ERP software. Bring your questions, mingle with the AIMS staff, see how the Meanwhile, Schneider, a veteran apparel almost every clothing category—all made in AIMS software and its many add-ons will help run your business more efficiently, executive who has headed up Speedo USA Los Angeles. and discuss WHATEVER else you would like with our industry experts. and Laundry by Shelli Segal, added two On June 18, Charney was ousted by the more people to her executive staff. board of directors as the company’s presi- www.aims360.com | [email protected] | 310-361-5710 Filling a newly created position for chief dent and chief executive for alleged miscon- digital officer is Thoryn Stephens. Stephens duct and violation of company policy. ●

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,2,5.cover.indd 2 2/26/15 7:37 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT Booths Buzzing at WWDMAGIC Around the World at Once again, the young contempo- for our customers,” he said. rary section of WWDMAGIC was This season, WWDMAGIC qui- Sourcing at MAGIC a buzzing hive of activity during the etly introduced an activewear sec- show’s Feb. 17–19 run at the Las tion to the show. Among the exhibi- The South Hall of the Las Vegas Convention Center Vegas Convention Center. tors was Colosseum, a Compton, turned into the United Nations for the semiannual Sourcing But fast-fashion wasn’t the only Calif.–based activewear line that at MAGIC show, which ran Feb. 16–19. hot category at the show. launched three years ago at MAGIC. There were more than 40 countries represented at the gar- In the contemporary sections A division of 30-year-old sports- gantuan show, where companies that manufactured every- of the show, buyers crowded into wear brand Colosseum Athletics, thing from athletic wear to zippers were represented. Chinese some booths, such as the one for the activewear line sells at Dick’s exhibitors made up more than half the show. Los Angeles–based Velvet Heart, Sporting Goods, Core Power Yoga This season, there was a focus on Egypt and its 25 qualify- where boutique retailers, as well as and “tons of boutiques, spas, gyms ing industrial zones, where department and chain stores includ- and resorts,” said Kristen Keyes Sul- apparel made in the zones ing Bloomingdale’s Dillard’s, Hot livan, Colosseum’s director of sales. get duty-free entry into Topic and Torrid—stopped by on Sullivan said she was pleased the United States under a opening day. with the location and liked being trade-preference program. “I’ve been nonstop,” said Stacia among other activewear brands. One advantage is that Diamond, vice president of Velvet Opening day of WWDMAGIC “We’ll see how it goes,” she said. input materials such as Heart and its sister collections, “It’s nice having a real activewear fabric and trim can come Free Heart and New Leaf. Diamond said she had done a section.” from anywhere, such as lot of “prep work” in advance of the show. On opening day of the show, the Colloseum booth saw a China or , but at least It was a similar scene across the aisle from Velvet Heart steady stream of buyers, much of which was drop-in traffic, 10.5 percent direct input, at the booth for Montreal-based RD International. Sullivan said. such as packaging, zippers Samantha Hollinger, RD International’s vice president Another exhibitor in the new activewear section was or thread, must come from of sales, said the turnout was primarily appointment-driven. Karma, a Vancouver-based activewear line inspired by and 24.5 percent di- “We’re in the same location, so the customers know fashion and dancewear. rect input must come from where to find us,” she said. “But we had a lot of new ac- “It’s very gym-to-everyday wear,” said sales rep Chelsea Egypt. Duty-free entry can counts who have seen the brand at other shows or see how Johnson. shave off up to 32 percent Mohamed El-Hady at Sourcing busy we are here.” The line includes sweaters and plenty of layering pieces in tariffs. at MAGIC Plus, Fall is a big season for the knit line, and with stock as well as a chic cape for Fall. The line sells in activewear Gail Strickler, the assistant U.S. trade representative for goods RD International is also able to fill Immediate orders. stores as well as Nordstrom locations in . textiles and apparel, said in a seminar that this trade-prefer- “We’ve also had the same reps for the last three years,” At the Beachwear booth, Ron A. Razzano, ence program was started in 2005 to promote peace between Hollinger said. “We like consistency—loyalty is a big deal vice president of sales for the Cypress, Calif.–based swim Israel and Egypt as well as to help the region grow its econ- for our company. Plus, the goods are selling.” company, was seeing a steady mixed of resort and hotel omy. The XCVI booth saw a steady stream of buyers through- store retailers. “This program offers you the opportunity to contribute out the first day of the show. “This time, people we’re more appointment-driven— to the greater goal of achieving peace and save money at the “It’s been consistent,” said company representative Chris which I haven’t seen in a while,” he said. same time,” she said, noting there is no expiration date for the Myers, but he noted that buyers were having to split their Manhattan Beachwear typically shows in the ISAM sec- trade-preference program. time among the many shows and venues occurring at the tion of MAGIC, as well as at CurveNV at The Venetian, On the exhibit floor, there were 30 Egyptian companies same time in Las Vegas. where the company shows its better brands—Trina Turk, who were exhibiting at the sourcing show—many for the first “Everything is spread out,” he said. “Everyone is visit- Nanette Lepore and LaBlanca. time. ing all the different shows. I’m excited to go to New York “We’ve always done well this time of year. I just wish it One of those was the Lotus Garments Co., which makes next week and see what the take is there because everyone was bigger,” said Razzano, who described the ISAM section blue jeans for brand names such as Levi’s, Jessica Simpson, is under one roof.” as “a destination” for swim buyers. Polo Ralph Lauren and Wrangler. Myers said with the changes in the fashion marketplace, Next season, the swim section at the Las Vegas Conven- Mohamed El-Hady, the company’s marketing director, now is the time to think about how to make the show easier tion Center is slated to expand with the launch of CurvExpo who was surrounded by a wall of hanging blue jeans finished on the buyers. @ MAGIC, the new show formed in partnership between in different washes, said he had met several new companies “As consumption is changing in the marketplace, we Advanstar and Eurovet, the parent companies of WWD- at the show. need to think about what’s going to be the best experience MAGIC and CurveNV, respectively.—Alison A. Nieder Some were ventures that wanted to expand on their cloth- ing lineup by adding denim. Others were looking to switch their production of blue jeans out of China. “So far it’s been nice,” he said as a few buyers rifled through the jeans pro- duced by the company, established in 1994. Lotus Garments Project: Big Show Might Get Bigger now has 11,000 employees who produce 1.2 million blue jeans a month. Wholesale prices for denim range from $9 to Project proved itself to be one of Calif., boutique LASC, forecasted $13. the big players in the fashion trade that fashion denim commanding While there were 30 Egyptian companies present at the show business when it ran Feb. 17– high price points was going to make sourcing show, there was only one manufacturer from Hon- 19 at the Mandalay Bay Conven- a comeback. The heyday for expen- duras, Exiid International, whose clothes can be imported tion Center in Las Vegas. sive fashion jeans came in the years into the United States duty free if made from regional yarns Spanning more than 140,000 immediately preceding the Great under the –Central American Free square feet with more than 400 Recession. Trade Agreement. brands, Project is a trade show At Project and some of the neigh- Exiid International manufactures crisp woven shirts and where many of the big players in boring shows, retail prices asked for tops in a factory in Comayaguela, , near fashion make an appearance, said some fashion denim pieces were the country’s capital of Tegucigalpa. The company is relative- veteran fashion entrepreneur Pepper more than $250. “People are ready ly new, started four years ago by Mark Zacapa, who used to Foster, who was at the booth run by for it,” Izaguirre said of higher- work as an architect. his twin brother, Chip Foster, who priced denim. At his store, people “We’ve had amazing response,” Zacapa said, standing near was showing his Chip Foster denim With more than 140,000 square feet of show showing price resistance to fashion the front of his booth, which featured an array of colorful wo- collection. floor space, Project is one of the major fashion denim with higher price tags has ven shirts. “We’ve had some very good leads, and we are hop- trade shows in Las Vegas. Photo courtesy of “This show is fantastic,” Pepper Project. been declining recently, he said. ing those will be fruitful.” Foster said. “All of the decision mak- A comeback for high-priced He had seen buyers from mostly the United States but also ers are here.” The Foster brothers also produce a premium fashion jeans could represent a return to pre-recession mer- company representatives from South America and Mexico. line called Chip & Pepper California, which is exclusive to chandising for LASC. Before 2009, expensive fashion denim Before coming to the show, he thought most of the buyers the retailer Belk Inc. comprised 30 percent of LASC’s sales, Izaguirre said. Post- would be from small ventures but was pleased there were also Major apparel labels such as Levi Strauss & Co., Perry recession, sales of expensive jeans only make up 10 percent people from medium-sized companies. Ellis and Ralph Lauren had booths there. The show offered of the boutique’s sales. Also appearing at the sourcing show for the first time was every type of fashion category, ranging from suiting from During Project, show directors produced mini-areas such Prasid Pashmina Industry, which came with 10 other Nep- Ted Baker London to surf styles from Toes on the Nose, as men’s grooming area Project Groom X Nylon Guys and alese apparel and accessories manufacturers. But the group headwear from Christy’s Hats and small accessories from its #Bloggerproject, which gave a platform for illustrators, wasn’t seeing much traffic in their part of the show. “This first J. Fold. There was even a section devoted to colorful men’s stylists and photographers making appearances at Project. experience has not been that good,” said Ajay Karki, executive fashion underwear from brands such as Andrew Christian, If Project seemed big on its most recent run, it may get chairman and managing director of Prasid Pashmina Industry. Timoteo and /Baskit/. bigger, said Lara Osment, the show’s director. The Mandalay Most of the cashmere shawls, scarves, sweaters and pon- Denim remained one of the major strengths of the show, Bay is building new space for its convention center. If con- chos, gloves and the company makes with the help of 60 with brands such as , Hudson, Paige, True struction is completed before August, when the next Project employees in Kathmandu are exported to Europe, but Karki and William Rast producing big booths at the show. show is scheduled to take place, the show will be able to of- was looking for more U.S. clients. He thought his small mini- After surveying denim brands at Project and other Vegas fer more real estate to vendors as well as “retailer initiatives,” mums of 50 pieces for woven garments and 25 pieces for knit shows, Alfredo Izaguirre, the buyer for West Hollywood, Osment said.—Andrew Asch garments would be a draw.—Deborah Belgum

APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

03.vegas.indd 3 2/26/15 7:43 PM NEWS We’ve Got CIT’s Steinberg Charts New Post-Retirement Path You Covered Finance executive Debbie Steinberg spent do at the companies I worked for. Because the nearly 40 years in fashion before retiring at the companies I worked for understood the indus- end of 2014. try, and they saw some of the pitfalls and were “There’s always a time for the changing of able to help companies grow and prosper.” the guard, and for me it was time. I’ve really re- Since announcing plans to retire, Steinberg Print tired,” she said. “But I’m not ready to remove has been asked to consult for the industry, which myself from the industry in its entirety. I still she said she is considering, but she’s keeping Online love the industry, and I love the people in it.” her options open for now. Steinberg worked for CIT Trade Finance in She plans to spend some of her newly ac- its Los Angeles office for more than 23 years, quired free time traveling with her husband, Stu. E-newsletters most recently serving as vice president of sales/ “I’m going to look at every opportunity as it new business development. comes up. If it’s something that I want to do, I Prior to joining CIT, she worked as an ac- will take it under advisement,” she said. count executive for Citizens & Southern, a The one commitment she’s prepared to make factor that was eventually ac- is to continue to use her deep quired by GMAC and then by apparel-industry roots to con- Wells Fargo. She landed her tinue the philanthropic work first job in factoring in Los An- she has done for organizations geles in 1976 at James Talcott such as Fashion Industry Inc., a factor that ultimately Guild of Cedars-Sinai Med- was acquired by CIT. ical Center, City of Hope Before moving to Los An- and National Jewish Health, geles, Steinberg worked in which honored Steinberg and Philadelphia for After Six Roth Capital Partners’ Paul Formalwear. Zaffaroni last year at its an- Over the years, she has nual Black and White Ball. watched the industry shift its Debbie Steinberg Steinberg and Zaffaro- business model. “The industry ni helped raise more than went from being a vertical domestic manufac- $500,000 for the Denver-based hospital, which turing industry to literally a design and import specializes in research and treatment of respira- industry,” she said, adding that one thing that tory, cardiac, immune and related disorders. has not changed is the fashion industry’s end- This year, Steinberg is the dinner chair for less supply of small businesses with big dreams. National Jewish Health’s June gala honoring “It is still an entrepreneurial industry that Hana Financial’s Sunnie Kim. allows those with talents to be able to garner “I’m still going to be very much involved that American dream a lot easier than in a lot in all three of [those organizations], sitting on of other industries,” she said. “That needs to boards and helping fundraise and being active in be nurtured because it takes so much money to an advisory capacity,” Steinberg said. “The real- start up a company these days. We’ve got a lot of ity is that the generosity of clothing manufactur- these little companies, and we’ve seen more and ers, big and small, is really unbelievable. And more private-equity firms coming in and buying these companies get hit up by everyone. [larger] brands. I think there’s that middle area They’re always willing to go into their pock- that really needs to be served—that $5 million et to support these three charities that have their to $15 million or $20 million company—that foundation in either the apparel industry or the needs to be helped and nurtured and served. professionals of the apparel industry.” That was one of the things that I was able to —Alison A. Nieder

Calendar

March 1 Factory Direct March 13 The New Mart ASDMARKETWeek ISS Los Angeles Las Vegas Convention Center Atlantic City Convention Center Through March 4 Las Vegas Atlantic City, N.J. Through March 4 FGI LA’s Factory Direct Trade Through March 15 Show Opening-Night Fashion Art Hearts Fashion Show Hollywood & Highland The New Mart, third floor Los Angeles Los Angeles Through March 13 March 2 March 10 Project Ethos Los Angeles International Textile Taglyan Complex Show Los Angeles There’s more California Market Center on ApparelNews.net. Los Angeles CALA Through March 4 Fort Mason Center For calendar details and contact San Francisco information, visit ApparelNews. Through March 11 net/calendar.

Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff. For special rates or

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can04.indd 4 2/26/15 8:02 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT EVENTS New Exhibitors and Returning Brands at CurveNV The Feb. 15–17 run of CurveNV saw a mix “We want every woman of every size to and is just starting to launch in the U.S. of new exhibitors and returning brands show- feel glamorous and sexy at the beach,” Wilkins “We are the fastest-growing luxury un- ing at the upscale and swimwear show said. derwear at an affordable price in Europe,” at The Venetian in Las Vegas. Wilkins and Connie Miller, wholesale sales Goldberg said. Produced in a vertical facility CHARLEY GALLAY/GETTY Among the new exhibitors was Joe’s Inti- manager for the line, said they were starting in Turkey, Blackspade offers underwear and mates, the licensed lingerie and loungewear to see a little crossover loungewear for line for premium-denim brand Joe’s Jeans. between lingerie and men, women and Retailers were responding well to the line’s swim stores carrying children using fi- fit, fabric and comfort, said Gihan Gabor, vice both categories. bers such as cotton president of sales for Onis Design Group, Miller outlined sev- and Modal. which is producing the collection. eral key trends. “It’s about life- “We do Project and Coterie for the jeans,” “The nautical look style and comfort,” Gabor said. “We’re trying to target this to the has been important, and Goldberg said. contemporary/ready-to-wear customer as she polka dots are always Next season, gets into lingerie.” good,” she said, adding CurveNV will re- PRE-OSCAR FASHION: Two days before she Another new exhibitor was Nightlift, the that “little extra details” locate to the Las took home the Academy Award for Best Actress, “Still Alice” star Julianne Moore was among sleep bra developed by Beverly Hills plastic such as zippers or pip- Vegas Convention the celebrities in attendance at the Tom Ford surgeon Randal Haworth. ing are also important. Center, thanks to a Autumn/Winter runway show at Milk Studios in Designed to protect breasts at night, the Mona Goldberg, se- newly announced Los Angeles. Other attendees included Beyoncé, wireless bra features a cradle-like structure and nior vice president of Joe’s Intimates showed at CurveNV. partnership with Jay-Z, Gwyneth Paltrow, Amy Adams, Reese straps that can be adjusted seven different ways sales and merchandis- MAGIC parent Witherspoon, Jennifer Lopez, Miley Cyrus, Patrick Schwarzenegger, Rita Ora, Neil Patrick depending on the support needed, said sales ing for Turkish underwear and loungewear line company Advanstar and CurveNV parent Harris, Scarlett Johansson, Jared Leto, John rep Dania Abraham. Blackspade, was upbeat about CurveNV. company Eurovet. Dubbed CurvExpo @ Legend, Naomi Campbell, Armie Hammer, Sofia “Gravity doesn’t sleep,” she said. “A lot of “We just opened a Mr. Boxer store in the MAGIC and under CurvExpo management, Vergara, Rosie Huntington Whiteley, Elizabeth bras only give you vertical support. Ours give Las Vegas airport—and that’s because of this the new trade show will showcase swimwear Olsen, Amber Valetta, Nicole Richie, Fergie, Josh Duhamel, Molly Sims, Gina Gershon, Olivia Munn, you vertical and lateral support.” show,” she said, praising the show’s energy and and lingerie brands, expanding the existing Faith Hill, Anjelica Huston, Liz Goldwyn, Kelly Among the swim brands showing at Cur- the turnout form domestic and international re- base of swim and lingerie resources showing Lynch, Diane Von Furstenberg, Harvey Weinstein, veNV was Los Angeles–based Unique Vin- tailers. at CurveNV and MAGIC in the ISAM (Inter- Georgina Chapman, Elton John, Tracee Ellis Ross, tage, the vintage-inspired swim line designed The 8-year-old collection is well represent- national Swim and Activewear Market) section Ryan Murphy, Seth McFarlane, Prince Pavlos and by Ellie Wilkins. ed in more than 20 countries around the world of the show.—Alison A. Nieder Princess Marie-Chantal. RUNWAY Academy of Art University, San Francisco Mark & Estel New York Fashion

Week DAN AND CORINA LECCA

Los Angeles brand RANDY BROOKE/GETTY IMAGES Mark & Estel and design- ers from the Academy of Art University in San Francisco were among the Californians showing Fall ’15 collections at Lincoln Center during Mercedes- Benz Fashion Week in New York. Paulina Susana and Emmanuelle Jones and Christian Willman Xiaowei Liu Romero Valdez Ghazaleh Khalifeh

COMPANY PROFILE

“Examine their competition, which is American Appar- brands like Oakley, Roxy or Rusty all use Bella+Canvas,” Continued from page 1 Bella+Canvas el,” said Ilse Metchek, president of the California Fashion Harris said. facilities. Last year, Harris and DeGeorge added electric-car Association. “There has yet to be any intrinsic value as per He compared Bella+Canvas to the Italian manufacturer chargers. the consumer for the ‘eco’ part or the ‘Made in USA’ part.” responsible for 80 percent of the world’s eyewear brands, “It’s who we are as a culture,” Harris said. “I eat organic, She said consumers will only pay a little more for “Made “We’re like the Luxottica of the surf-and-skate industry.” and so does my business partner. We adapted our company in USA” labels, such as $22 if it’s only $2 over the price of a In addition, Harris and DeGeorge make private-label to our lifestyle.” foreign-made shirt. If it’s more than 15 percent above retail, shirts for retailers and brands as well as sell their various “It’s important that our customers and employees know it’s a deal killer. lines of combed and ring-spun T-shirts on their website with confidence that we do every- “There is a certain segment of our (www.bellacanvas.com) and to about 800 boutiques. thing in an eco-conscious, sustain- millennials who that matters to in ar- But the company’s bread and butter sits in a warehouse able and responsible way,” he add- eas like LA and New York—but not full of 40 million “off-the-shelf blanks” (basically, a com- ed. “We have a recycling program in the middle of the country and not plete T-shirt in each of Bella+Canvas’ fits, bodies and col- that leaves our manufacturing with in Florida,” Metchek noted. ors). They are available for customers who want to do their almost zero landfill. These are just Frank Kaufman, a Moss Adams own printing and embroidery or to replenish exhausted stock a few things we do to create a posi- LLP partner who focuses on retail quickly or rebrand as their own. The blanks even include tive environment for employees to and apparel sectors, agreed with tearaway labels to make it easier for clients to re-brand. thrive in.” Metchek about the economic vi- “Rather than someone saying, “Here’s our specs”—odds On its website, Bella+Canvas ability of American made and eco- are we’re a lot more sophisticated than they are. We’re a makes a point to tout its “Made sensitive manufacturing. But he said larger company than the retailers or the brands.They can in LA” credentials, which ac- if Bella+Canvas has “been around take our blanks,” Harris explained. “We have customers, like counts for about 10 million units since 1992, they must be doing very high-end retail brands or surf-and-skate brands, as well a year, but the company declined something right.” as technology companies and some of the smallest start-up to specify what percentage of its Harris will tell you that “some- design companies. If they want to put a design on a shirt and merchandise is domestically made. thing right” is Bella+Canvas’ whole- it sells out, they are able to jump in and use our label or put Bella+Canvas shirts retail on its sale business, which he says saturates a label in it.” website for about $16.50 to $44, a large part (as a privately held com- To this day, Bella+Canvas is solely owned by the two life- depending on the style and sleeve pany, Bella+Canvas doesn’t release long pals who started it. And they have no plans to alter that length. The company also manufactures sweatshirts, cardi- sales figures) of the surf-and-skate industry as well as spe- business plan or the way they do business. gans, dresses and knit pants. cialty T-shirts for companies and organizations. “We dress somewhere around a quarter of a million peo- Analysts said this kind of domestic production has some “Mostly, where we sell is to the wholesale printable in- ple every single working day,” Harris said. “We want to do appeal for a segment of the “millennial” market, but it dustry—to screen printers and embroiderers who make shirts things our way and not just focus on the next quarter but on doesn’t attract everyone. for fraternities, sororities and companies. Surf-and-skate the next 50 years.” ●

APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 5

01,2,5.cover.indd 5 2/26/15 7:39 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT ENKVegas Displays Its Conscious Side

ENKVegas— Boelk believed that a show devoted to was where most of women’s contem- his buyers would porary , shop. During the denim and acces- show, Groceries sories—unveiled its met with retailers Conscious Collec- such as Service tions section dur- Menswear in Aus- ing its most recent tin, Texas; Planet run, Feb. 17–19 at Blue in Santa Mon- the Mandalay Bay ica, Calif.; Kitson, Convention Center headquartered in in Las Vegas, said Los Angeles; and Sunni Spencer, the ENKVegas booths for brand White Crow were new boutiques that show’s director. busy. hailed from Colo- The Conscious Collections were brands rado. that make philanthropy, organic materials Greg Garrett, co-founder of Z-Supply and fair-trade practices part of their business Inc., exhibited his Irvine, Calif.–head- plans. Around 46 brands participated in the quartered brands White Crow and Black effort, and their booths featured a sticker Swan at ENKVegas. During the show, Z bearing the moniker Conscious Collections. Supply Inc.’s sales force met with over More than 540 brands exhibited at 370 200 accounts—most of them independent booths at ENKVegas, which was larger than boutiques. “Manufacturers must evaluate a the August 2014 run of the show, Spencer few basic questions in order to have a suc- Print + said, although she did not say how much cessful show. They must determine if it’s on larger. trend or not,” Garrett stated. “It’s important If ENKVegas showed its green colors for manufacturers to work with retailers to during the show—green is the color often handle the distribution of their garments. I Online + associated with the environmental move- always ensure that my brands are not over- ment—the green of dollar bills also re- distributing.” mained a top priority at the show. Meital Bronstein, owner of the defunct Matthew Boelk, co-owner of Grocer- high-end Talulah G boutiques, founded Archives ies, a made-in-USA knitwear brand that e-commerce retailer Bungalow Cloth- uses environmental fabrics, participated in ing, which is headquartered in Las Vegas. the Conscious Collections. He forecasted She walked ENKVegas and saw that 1970s that his Los Angeles–based brand’s sales styles were making a big comeback. = Total Access could increase 50 percent compared with Some of the big trends at the show in- his label’s ENKVegas business in February cluded 1970s-style bell-bottoms, corduroy 2014. “I hope it is a sign that the economy pants and garments bearing Ultrasuede-style is getting better and that people are being fabric. “You see a lot of wide-leg pants. You less cautious,” he said. A lot of the growth see some boot-cut styles coming back,” she came from pre-booking the brand’s Fall col- said. Plaid tops seemed very popular as did lection. Groceries exhibited at ENK because overcoats, she said.—Andrew Asch

Good Traffic at Offprice

Business was good for the exhibitors at the the booth with her father, Sam Alami, who Offprice show, held Feb. 15–18 at the Sands owns the Los Angeles–based company. Expo and Convention Center in Las Vegas. Dana Alami said the company was see- Longtime exhibitor Frank Kashani, with ing a few prospective customers but not as Impulse Los Angeles, said opening day of many as they’d like. The Sun Active booth the show was very good with much of the was tucked into a hard-to-find location at the turnout from Kashani’s existing customers. show, and Alami said she hoped to get a bet- “Maybe 20 percent are new customers,” ter location at the next show. he said. Ed Bernard, founder of Bermo Enter- Kashani, who also shows at Offprice’s prises, described the show as “phenomenal” New York edition, was bullish on the offprice market overall. “Business is improving,” he said. “Of course, there’s lots of competition. It matters what merchandise you have.” Patti Luner, director of sales for swim manufacturer InGear, was also upbeat about business. “All of our clients are coming in,” she said, adding that retailers were look- ing at juniors and coverup styles as well as the company’s swim sets. “We are the actual manufacturer, so it’s beneficial for us and for the retailers. They get the best price,” she said. In addition to the OffPrice show, The Bermo Enterprises booth at Offprice where InGear sells excess inventory, Get Yours Today and the company also exhibits at WWDMAGIC, but added that the Las Vegas show was part where it shows better lines and licensed col- of a busy month for his Schoolcraft, Mich.– lections. based offprice business. Save 75%! “This is the time of year for Immediate “For us, the show puts together almost goods,” she said. “At this show, they see this a month-long event,” he said. “Two weeks body and that print, and they can get it right before the show, aggressive companies will call toll-free now.” shop our showroom in New York and our Los Angeles–based blank T-shirt maker website. And a week after the show, we also Sun Active was at the show for the first time get a lot of activity. We had so much activity (866) 207-1448 at the request of several of the company’s before the show that we knew it was going to clients, said Dana Alami, who was working be good.”—Alison A. Nieder

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

06.vegas.indd 6 2/26/15 7:44 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT Stitch, Accessories The Show, MRKT VG The concept Just about everybody was happy at the trio of shows organized by Business Jour- nals Inc., except for the Canadian buyers of factoring wandering the Sands Expo at Venetian/ Palazzo, where the shows were held. “We’re not particularly happy with the American is simple: dollar right now,” they said, referring to the strong U.S. dollar, which makes goods more expensive for international buyers. That was one of the few gloomy com- ments heard at the shows, which encom- passed Stitch, Accessories The Show and MRKT VG, held Feb. 16–18. Janelle Crumm, brand manager for Ital- You Give Us Your Invoice. ian-made Elisa Cavaletti, said she was hav- ing a much better show than last year. “Yes- Elisa Cavaletti, showing at Stitch, is designed We Give You the Money. terday, the first day, was very, very good, and and manufactured in Italy. today it is consistent,” she said on the second day of the show. The brand of art-inspired cities. “This has been the best show,” she You Pay Your Bills. women’s apparel designed by Daniela Dal- said. “The first day was the best first day I lavalle has unique touches, jewelry-like trim have ever had.” Factoring Made Simple. and novelty accents that wholesale for $80 Her large, colorful silk scarves that look to $300. more like colorful paintings than apparel Sharing the large hall with Stitch was were a main draw to her booth. So were her No bells, unnecessary, really. No whistles, not Accessories The Show. Exhibitors there limited-edition purses that tell the story of needed as well. No tricks. Ditto. were also upbeat about the first few days, inspiring women who helped advance the At Goodman Factors, we simply offer smart, although not everyone had a fabulous first feminist cause. day. Traffic seemed to be less brisk at the ac- There is a notable quote from each of dedicated good service from an experienced cessories show. these women, such as Susan B. Anthony or team of pros. Along with money at competitive “This year has been okay, but last year I Amelia Earhart, placed on a plaque on the had a very good year here,” said David Meri- outside of each purse. The bags retail for rates when you need it—today, for instance. zen, who has been participating in the acces- $797, with a portion of sales going to non- sories show ever since it opened. profits. Under his Onigo Imports, based in To- At menswear event MRKT VG, Italian- ronto, he imports colorful handmade raffia made menswear was strongly represented Goodman Factors hats and bags from Madagascar that whole- as were several American brands such as — Since 1972 — sale for $5 to $35. The boxy bags were lined Gitman Bros., a longtime manufacturer of up like pieces of contemporary art behind men’s shirts made in Ashland, Penn., and Please call 877-4-GOODMAN him on several shelves, attracting a good men’s ties manufactured in Pilot Mountain, number of gift and clothing stores looking N.C. or visit us at goodmanfactors.com. Simple, right? for something bright to put in their windows, Dana Dean, Gitman’s vice president of particularly if they were from the East Coast. sales, said he saw a combination of new Abigail Riggs, who designs silk scarves business and old business from appoint- and limited-edition purses for her self-named ments. He noted that the disadvantage of the label based in Rochester, N.Y., was having Las Vegas show is that it comes after shows the opposite experience. Last year, she said, in California and New York. But that can there were fewer buyers at Accessories The also mean more order writing. “Because this Show because of the horrible weather on the show is so late, there are a lot of buyers who East Coast, but this year buyer turnout was are waiting to see what is left. By the time much better even though there were weather they get here, they have to make decisions,” challenges in Boston and other East Coast he said. —Deborah Belgum we’re blogging Agenda: Emerging Street Labels

Agenda made its fourth run in Las Vegas Feb. 16–18 at the Sands Expo and Conven- tion Center, and for Alfredo Izaguirre, gener- al manager and buyer for LASC boutique in West Hollywood, Calif., it was an opportunity to check out the emerging brands. High-profile brands such as Hurley, RVCA and , which have a high pro- file at Agenda’s Long Beach show in July, did not make appearances in Las Vegas, so there were a lot of chances to spend more time with emerging and up-and-coming labels in streetwear, fashion and skate looks, Izaguirre Go Beyond said. Izaguirre reported placing orders for the News brands such as Shwood and Defend Brook- lyn at Agenda. “They’re regional brands, and Play Cloths booth at Agenda show in Las Vegas they are growing,” he said. “But in the LA and Behind area, they’ll be a great novelty. They are not and Macbeth, a Carlsbad, Calif.–based oversaturated.” brand, which introduced its apparel line. the Scenes Agenda’s Las Vegas show was heaven for The Agenda show also tested a new sec- fans of baseball caps. Displaying the increas- tion called (+), or Plus, which is devoted to ingly fashionable baseball caps were some high-end streetwear, during its recent Las Ve- of the leading headwear labels such as New gas run. Era, ’47 Brand and Mitchell & Ness as well For the 101 Apparel brand, headquartered blog >> Talk of the Trade as streetwear and lifestyle cap label The Of- in Santa Ana, Calif., Agenda Las Vegas comes ficial. at the right time. 101’s Spring and Summer The editors and writers of California Apparel News Footwear labels were an important part ’15 lines of T-shirts and accessories were re- of the show, and booths for brands such as leased shortly before the show. “We saw a lot are blogging at Adidas drew big crowds. Brands that made of Japanese, European and Latin American ApparelNews.net debuts at Agenda Vegas included Aape by a retailers,” said Cocoe Tsimahidis, the sales Bathing Ape, the Japanese streetwear brand, manager for 101 Apparel.—Andrew Asch

APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

07.vegas.indd 7 2/26/15 7:46 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT Liberty Fairs: To The Moon and Global The Tents Covers Luxe Liberty Fashion & Lifestyle to Liberty was the Drugstore section, Men’s Looks Fairs, a high-end contemporary which exhibited men’s grooming menswear show, used the theme “To brands. In the Network section, fash- Designer trade event The Tents ran Feb. 17–19 at the The Moon” for its fourth run in Las ion tech companies such as Shopify, Mandalay Bay Convention Center with a theme of “eleva- Vegas. The show enjoyed a deeper NuOrder and Lightspeed exhibited. tion.” international presence when it took Seeley forecasted that the show The small show displayed more than 100 brands, includ- place Feb. 16–18 at the Sands Expo would keep its current layout and ing 16 that were new to the 20,000-square-foot venue, said and Convention Center, said Steph- size. “We want to grow organically,” Ryan Crenshaw, the show’s anie Seeley, a Liberty partner. she said. “Our main goal is to make director. The show’s exhib- There were more than 300 Japa- the show easy to navigate for retail- itors displayed looks that nese buyers at Liberty, Seeley said, ers.” ranged from sportswear to and more than 18 Japanese brands on Like almost every other trade the avant-garde. the floor, including outerwear label show, some brands did well and oth- The Tents veteran Aga- Nishikawa Down, which made its ers reported doing only okay busi- ve displayed sportswear U.S. debut at Liberty. ness. Don King, senior vice president and denim. The Kooples U.S. retailers dropping by the show of sales for Schott NYC, headquar- exhibited looks ranging New York brand The New Standard exhibited at included majors such as Blooming- Liberty. Pictured are New Standard owner Evan tered in Union, N.J., estimated that from suiting with contem- dale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue; high- Josloff, left, and Kerin Raftery, right show attendance increased, but the porary looks to separates. end boutiques such as H.Lorenzo and show’s pace was relaxed. “It’s not Apolis displayed accesso- Fred Segal, both based in Los Angeles; Carson Street Cloth- overwhelming,” he said of the show. “People here don’t feel ries such as bags, Oxford- iers of New York City; and Holt Renfrew, a luxury specialty harried.” style shirts and chinos. chain headquartered in Toronto. Hyden Yoo exhibited his Los Angeles–headquartered self- Beautiful Fül showed Drifter’s Bada Kim, left, and The buyers saw more than 400 booths exhibiting mostly named brand, Hyden Yoo, and his Standard Issue line at Lib- looks that were inspired by Kim Johnson at The Tents menswear looks, including 123 brands that were new to the erty. He said that retailers mostly ordered Fall styles during the the trunks and robes worn show. Seeley said the show directors mostly kept the show show, but an estimated 25 percent were buying Immediates. by professional boxers. layout consistent with what was seen at the third run of Lib- Lisa Kline, a boutique retailer who closed her influential Drifter showed long, distressed T-shirts that were reminis- erty in August. Los Angeles boutique chain named Lisa Kline in 2011, walked cent of shirt-dresses. Show sections included Quest, which was devoted to - Liberty. Kline recently introduced a self-named fashion line on Retailers shopping the show included Saks, Nordstrom, ing and other high-end looks. Another part of the show was Home Shopping Network. She noticed athleisure was one of Holt Renfrew and American Rag. Independent boutiques dedicated to tailored styles and outerwear. Another section the big trends at the show. “Lines that would be dressier were such as Atrium; Canvas, based in Malibu, Calif.; and Re- was reserved for Japanese and European brands. Lifestyle, selling sweats and more leisure wear. But they were matched volve Clothing also were seen at the show. streetwear and surf brands such as Maui & Sons and Katin with jackets and button-up shirts,” Kline said. “There was a big Tents represented a trade show comeback for Beautiful USA had a larger presence at Liberty. Also making a return influence of skate/street and surf.”—Andrew Asch Fül. The last time it exhibited at a trade show was in 2012, said Alejandro Rodriguez, the brand’s founder. Rodriguez took time off to hone the brand’s styles at its flagship store in downtown Los Angeles. Pool: New Brands “You got to get a grip on where you are as a brand” be- fore looking to exhibit at a high-profile trade show, he said. For more than a decade, Pool- show as did Freddie Rojas, who “Once you are confident, you can step up,” he said.—A.A. tradeshow has considered itself as has been exhibiting his self-named the first place where new brands Rojas brand at Pool since the first exhibit and experiment until they years of the show. are assured enough to exhibit at a Also exhibiting was novelty larger trade show, said Alli Johnson, Dutch suiting brand Oppo . Consistently Busy at WWIN Pool’s show director. Texas-based T-shirt brand Femlin During its most recent run, held Clothing took a bow at Pool. It Feb. 17–19 in the South Pacific ball- makes T-shirts bearing the graphic room at the lower level of the Man- of a “Mad Men”–era burlesque dalay Bay Convention Center, character called Femlin. Also show- Pool lived up to its mission. Half of ing was Killstar, a Glasgow, Scot- the 175 brands that exhibited were land–based company that calls its new to the show, Johnson said. styles occult luxury. It designs T- Pool also expanded the number shirts and dresses with pop-culture, of its brands with an eco-friendly rock music–inspired and occult- focus. There were more than 40 eco style graphics, said co-owner Den- brands exhibiting at the show. Also OppoSuit’s Jelle van der Zwet, left, and Ashrin nis Bence. making a return was Pool’s cash- Degnarain at Pool “The show was good,” he said and-carry section, where attendees of Pool. “Everyone seemed to have may purchase items from the show floor. their own thing going on. It’s not solely mainstream. It’s not Well-known brand American Apparel ran a booth at the solely alternative.”—A.A.

Capsule Sees Good International Response Mary Ann Weerts, president and designer for Tey-Art/Tabask Inc., at WWIN The Feb. 16–18 run of Capsule at “I feel like people are taking The Venetian in Las Vegas got off to risks,” she said. At the WWIN (Women’s Wear in Nevada) show, tables a good start with exhibitors report- Daniel Torjman, designer and were filled with buyers perusing collections and taking ing a strong turnout from domestic creative director of Toronto-based notes or writing orders. The show, which fills several hotel and international retailers shopping menswear 18 Waits, said he was ballrooms at the Rio All-Suites Hotel & Casino, is popular the men’s and women’s contempo- getting a “great response” from buy- with lines that sell to the misses, resort and plus-size cus- rary apparel and accessories collec- ers at the Las Vegas show. (The com- tomers. Specialty-store buyers across the West traditionally tions at the show. pany also shows at Capsule in New show up to look for new brands or meet with their tradi- Tina Ye, national agent with the York and Paris.) tional vendors. True Collaborative Fashion show- “Every show, we always see ex- “It is always consistent. It doesn’t really vary that much,” room, which has locations in Port- isting customers, and we always find said Steve Levinson, sales rep for the new line Dressorí, land, Ore., and the Cooper Design new,” said David Morton, 18 Waits’ which designs art-influenced printed tops from its Van Space, said she met with buyers marketing director. “It gets better Nuys, Calif., headquarters. from and Korea at the show. and better.” Tey-Art/Tabask—a line of alpaca sweaters, hats, socks “It’s been very busy,” she said. Torjman and Morton said some and mittens made in —was having one of its most suc- “We’re happy.” Callahan booth at Capsule retailers are still playing it safe while cessful WWIN shows. “Monday was the best day because True Collaborative Fashion was others are open to taking some risks there was a captive audience,” said Scott Kay, the com- showing several West Coast lines, including Portland-based with their buying. pany’s vice president of sales, referring to the fact that the Nau, Bridge & Burn and Prairie Underground and San “It depends on the store,” Torjman said, adding, “But the show, running Feb. 16–19, opened a day before the MAGIC Francisco–based Curator. The company also showed acces- collection is very wearable.” Marketplace shows debuted at the Las Vegas Convention sories by the Little River Mill in Fort Wayne, Ala. Buyers were responding well to the company’s suiting Center. “It was like a metronome at our booth. Every 30 Many of the showroom’s clients had a strong holiday, Ye pieces as well as its new line of handmade hats. minutes, someone would come by, then would stand up and said, adding that many buyers were open to try new lines. —Alison A. Nieder someone else would come by.”—Deborah Belgum

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

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ACCOUNTING SERVICES HANDBAGS & MANUFACTURING PHOTOGRAPHY HOVIK M. KHALOIAN

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520 N. CENTRAL AVE., SUITE # 650 GLENDALE, CA 91203

TEL: 818.244.7200 [email protected]

CONTRACTOR MEXICO PRODUCTION SHELTER PRIVATE LABEL Screen Printers and Assemblers FULL SERVICE PRIVATE LABEL and Discover the SIMSA Advantage: • Locate your operation close to a large textile mill in FASHION CONSULTING FROM SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT TO PRODUCTION Over 15 Years Experience Sonora, Mexico, for a smooth flow of supplies and goods Specializing in Woven and Knits to and from Mexico DOMESTIC and OVERSEAS DEVELOPMENT • Reduce red tape and downtime and increase labor and PRODUCTION EXPERTS savings and your bottom line • Shelter services include 40 years of experience, plus the contacts and the knowledge needed to help you establish CMT LOS ANGELES and run a profitableCall Gus atbusiness (520) 803-0979 in a preferential or visit border zone (310) 406 7490 [email protected] www.simsamexico.com for more information

CUTTING/GRADING/.MARKING MODEL SERVICES SWIMWEAR & SWEATER SPECIALIST

FULL PACKAGE SERVICE

(Low MOQ, Competitive Prices, In Stock Yarn)

Full sample development & production service

Contact us today

SOVEREIGN SKY INC. (SSI) SSIPrivateLabel.com [email protected] (626) 327-3344

SEWING MACHINE SERVICES

PATTERN & SAMPLE FIT MODELS PATTERNS WORLD INC. Providing pattern making and full development services for the garment industry for over 25 years. We specialize in first through production patterns and in house sample room. Salesman duplicates, small production welcome.

Check us out at www.patternsworldinc.com (213) 439-9919 To advertise call June 213-627-3737 x250 or E-mail: [email protected]

APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 9

09.SD-masthead.indd 9 2/26/15 8:43 PM CLASSIFIEDS www.classifieds.apparelnews.net www.apparelnews.net P 213-627-3737 Ext. 278, 280 F 213-623-1515

Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available

PRE-PRODUCTION COORDINATOR PIECE GOODS BUYER Full-time temp positions available with Duties include Duties include Missy/Contemporary Mfg in Bell, CA: - Create and maintain preproduction WIP tracking due - Purchase fabrics and trims from local and overseas 1st Patternmaker dates. vendors Make accurate, aesthetically pleasing, proportional first - Ensure all samples and components adhere to stan- - Responsible for bringing goods in on time and alert patterns based off designer's sketches. Ensure patterns dards including but not limited to lab dips, fit, pp, and production for delays on timely manner are balanced and meet specific instructions and mea- top samples. - Negotiate prices to meet targets and track and re- surements by designers. Create pattern cards. Work with - Interface with customers and sales on all issues af- view shipping samples cutters, sewers, designers. 7yrs of first pattern experi- fecting delivery and quality ence with at least 5yrs of Gerber V8. Qualifications ------Qualifications - Exp'd buyer with 5+ years buying knits and woven Design Assistant - Minimum 3+ year working exp. in preproduction - Possess strong written and verbal communication Work with line, style, & cost sheets. Assist with sample - Skilled in dealing with high volume fast paced envi- skills requests (instruct and direct sewers). Coordinate en- ronment - College degree required cads, colorings, cad requests, engraving, and strike off - Possess strong written and verbal communication Email resume to: [email protected] requests. Conduct print and pattern searches. 2yrs relat- skills ed experience, strong data entry, good communication - Proficient with Excel and Photoshop. College degree skills, & ability to do flat sketching required. Photoshop, req Illustrator, Web PDM preferred. Email resume to: [email protected] ------Product Development Assistant ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Maintain WIP's, input all data into A2000 for all re- quests. Maintain fabric library. Follow up on fabric detail NYDJ Apparel is seeking an experienced Administrative sheets and fabrics needed. 5yrs exp in garment industry. Assistant. Duties include coordinating meetings, travel Must be very organized and able to multitask. Ability to arrangements, data entry and general office. Min 2 yrs in Account Executive do renderings in AI/Photoshop. a similar role within a fashion/apparel company. Excep------We are looking for a Savvy Sales Rep to join the team at tional communication and organizational skills. Word Tech Pack Creator our corporate office. Responsible for selling to boutiques, and Excel. Excellent benefits & work environment. No Make Face Card & Garment making sheet with Photo- specialty boutiques and online retailers. Must have a mini- phone calls please. shop/Illustrator (must accurately list all construction de- mum of 3 years' experience with established sales Send resume and salary history to: [email protected] tails). Make graded spec sheets, update charts. Accu- contacts. Trade show travel. Please send resume to: rately list bill of materials on tech pack. 2yrs of related [email protected] KANDY KISS OF CALIFORNIA experience. 1ST PATTERNMAKER ------DATA ENTRY/EDI SPECIALIST Production Manager Kandy Kiss of California We are a fast paced jr dress manufacturer seeking a data Supervise overseas production & QC. Troubleshoot pro- A Van Nuys based manufacturer is looking for a 1st pat- entry/ EDI person. This position requires intense atten- duction issues. Communication with customers. Source ternmaker for our junior woven sportswear & dress divi- tion to detail and knowledge of basic EDI and compli- factory vendors and allocate orders, including negotiat- sion. Pad system capability is preferred but will train the ance for major chain retail stores. The position consists ing Capa. Supervise costing & pre-production. 10yrs of right candidate as long as you have proficiency on at of high volume order entry and email correspondence. production experience. Strong organization, multitask- least one computer system. Must have a minimum of 5 Excel, AIMS and EDI knowledge are must haves. ing, and written/verbal communication skills. years' experience. Candidate will need to do a test. Please send cover letter and resume to ------Please send your resume with salary requirements to: [email protected] Sewer/Samplemaker [email protected]. Resumes without cover letters will not be read Experience with acetate slinky a plus. Read/write/speak English required. Email res. to [email protected] LA Import Garment Manufacturer looking for: PURCHASING COORDINATOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR - Mandarin/English Design oriented textile and garment importer seeks a speaking. Knowledge of Tech Packs and Vendor PIECE GOOD/TRIM ASSOCIATE motivated individual for purchasing coordinator position. Compliance. Bailey 44 is looking for an energetic candidate to join our Experience in the textile and garment industry a must. piece goods/trim team. Ideal candidate must have at Must be well organized, hard working, detail oriented PATTERNMAKER - 1st thru production. Knits & Wovens. least 2 years' experience working with fabric and trim. and with good follow up skills. Knowledge of PAD Systems. Responsibilities will include; issuing & tracking purchase Pls send resume to: [email protected] orders, corresponding with suppliers and contractors, E-mail Resume: [email protected] coordinating send-outs, issuing trim, updating receiving, and reporting. PRODUCTION PATTERN MAKER Please e-mail your resume to [email protected] - Experienced pattern maker in missy knit and woven tops with various send outs such as garment dye and silk screen Import Accountant Customer Service Representative - Comfortable working in a fast paced environment Junior, Missy and Girl's lines are seeking an Import Ac- We are looking for a Customer Service Rep, Sales Assistant. - Computer pattern only countant. Needs to have 2 years+ of garment Accoun- Contributing to the sales and production process. Build Email resume to: [email protected] tant experience. Good at using Quickbooks. Able to make relationships with retail accounts. 1-3 years' experience in Import Documents. Bilingual - Able to speak Mandarin apparel/accessory customer service and sales. Please send Chinese to talk to Chinese Suppliers. Able to communi- SINGLE NEEDLE SEWING CONTRACTORS resume to: [email protected]. cate with U.S. Companies (Customers). Karen Kane is looking for single needle sewing contrac- Please send resume to: [email protected] PRE PRODUCTION COORD tors for better sportswear, tops, dresses and jackets. FULL TIME SANTA ANA Must have valid garment registration and proof of WC Tech Packs, ERP/SAP Raw Mat Sourcing, Planning, insurance. 3 yrs. exp., [email protected] Contact the production manager at 949-553-5638 www.classifieds.apparelnews.net (323) 588-0000 ext. 1122

10 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

10-11.classifieds.indd 10 2/26/15 6:53 PM Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available Customer Service Manager ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Santa Monica based company seeks an operations-minded Applications Specialist We are seeking Associate Designer for Contemporary Customer Service Manager. 5+ yrs exp. Able to work Creative? Love a challenge? Help us make Amazing! Dress division. Ideal person must have 2-3 recent yrs effectively w/ multiple depts. GREAT BENEFITS. FULL TIME. Provide application support to brands through field ser- exp. in Contemporary or Dresses. Must be exp. in all as- Fax resumes to (310)828-0091 or vice, proto-typing, testing and demonstrations in our pects of design that includes sourcing fabric, trim, email: [email protected] Portland Oregon Design Lab. Strong knowledge of ap- sketching with illustrator, and trend research. Must be parel pattern making and assembly techniques. Develop able to meet deadlines and be extremely organized. 1st thru Production Patternmaker innovative process and application solutions for cus- Email resumes to: [email protected] Fast paced JRS company seeking a full time 1st thru produc- tomers. Recommend fabrication methods to replace tion Patternmaker. Must be able to do paper and Gerber pat- sewing with bonding. Find out more at http://www.bemis terns. Min. 5 yrs experience required. Please email resume worldwide.com/about/careers/applications-manager FIRST PATTERNMAKER to [email protected] Seeking right candidate to work in Contemporary Dress Division.Ideal patternmaker must possess excellent tech- Denim Fabric Sales nical & verbal skills to assist in fittings with designer & Real Estate China based premium denim fabric mill seeking experienced production. Must have recent exp. with Gerber pds 8.5. sales to expend business in North and South America. must GARMENT BUILDINGS Send resumes to [email protected] have exiting accounts. pls send your resume to Mercantile Center 500 sq. ft. - 16,500 sq. ft. Priced Right. Product Development & Production Manager [email protected] Full Floors 4500 sq ft., Must have experience in all women's apparel categories. Will National Sales Manager Lights-Racks-New Paint-Power manage styles ensuring fit, quality, cost, production, deliv- Miller International, Inc.; an established wholesale clothing Parking Available-Good Freight. ery. BA/BS and/or 4-6 years related experience. Solutions distributor is seeking an experienced National Sales Manager Call 213-627-3754 oriented. Fluent in Korean a plus! Full benefits! Send cover to work out of our corporate office in Denver, Colorado. See Design Patternmaker Garment Lofts letter, resume, & desired salary to [email protected]. the full job description and apply by visiting www.miller- 300 sq ft - 1,000 sq ft. Women's Master Pattern Maker international.com Call 213-627-3755 San Francisco bridal & RTW co seeks Pattern Maker w ex- pertise in 1st thru final pattern development. 10+ years PM Domestic QC Buy, Sell and Trade experience & discerning eye for style, fit, attention to detail. Girlswear Company in Burbank looking for Domestic QC. Email resume: [email protected] Must have 2-3 yrs experience with major dept store WE BUY FABRIC! AmyKuschel.com/Journal/Pattern-Maker-Wanted compliance and production audits. Excess rolls, lots, sample yardage, small to large qty's. ALL FABRICS! SWEATER TECH W/PATTERN EXP Email resume to [email protected] fabricmerchants.com Steve 818-219-3002 2-4 YRS EXP IN TECH DESIGN, KNOWLEDGE IN BASICS OF SWTRS. MUST HAVE STRONG WORK ETHIC, ORGANIZED OPERATIONS/PRODUCTION COORDINATOR WE NEED FABRIC & RESPONSIBLE. MUST BE ABLE TO WORK UNDER Small handbag co. looking for experienced, organized pro- Silks Wools Denims Knits Prints Solids... STRESS & TIGHT DEADLINES. MUST KNOW EXCEL, PHO- duction coordinator. Handle all operations in LA office. Apparel & Home decorative. TOSHOP &/OR ILLUSTRATOR EMAIL: Wholesale & Online orders. Excellent writing skills. Profi- No lot to small or large... [email protected] cient in: QB, MS Office, Multitasking. Must drive. Letter & re- Also, buy sample room inventories... sume: [email protected] Stone Harbor 323-277-2777 Customer Service Manager Marvin or Michael Women's Apparel Company is seeking a Customer Service Position Wanted manager. The position requires you to be responsible for ad- REINCARNATION TEXTILE RESOURCE ministrative support and data entry. We are looking for a 35 yrs Exp'd We Broker Apparel, Textile and Accessories multi-tasker with meticulous attention to detail. Must be fa- 1st/Prod. Patterns/Grading/Marking and Specs. We also sell, as reps, to desired companies miliar with AIMS and Microsoft Office. . Please send your re- 12 yrs on Pad System. Freelance. Contact Chicory at 714-227-3458 or sume to [email protected] for consideration. Fast/Reliable. ALL AREAS Ph. (626)792-4022 [email protected]

For advertising information: Call Jeffery 213-627-3737 Ext. 280 [email protected]

COMING SOON IN CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS

March 6 March 13 March 20 Cover: Fashion Cover: LA Runway Cover: LA Runway Textile Wrap Real Estate Charts Technology E-tail Spot Check Technology LA Market Wrap New Lines & Showrooms Activewear Special Section New Resources What’s Checking Bonus Distribution Spot Check Finance Advertorial Lazr 3/15–18 Fashion Faces Fashion Advertorial Coeur 3/16–18 Bonus Distribution Textile & Technology Designers & Agents LA 3/16–18 LA Gift & Home Market 3/29–31 Advertorial Shape 3/16–18 Bonus Distribution LA Fashion Market 3/16–19 Fashion Week LA 3/9–15 AAFA Summit 3/18–20 Project Ethos 3/10 Style Fashion Week 3/18–22 Designers & Agents LA 3/16–18 Atlanta Market Week 3/19–23 Coeur 3/16–18 Dallas Market Week 3/25–28 LA Fashion Market 3/16–19 LA Fashion Week 3/18–25 Atlanta Market Week 3/19–23 The Source/International Textiles Expo 3/23–25

CALL NOW FOR SPECIAL RATES TERRY MARTINEZ (213) 627-3737 x213

APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 27–MARCH 5, 2015 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 11

10-11.classifieds.indd 11 2/26/15 6:54 PM You’ve Never Seen Anything Like This Before.

Introducing AccuMark 10. Powerful, intuitive design software that increases visualization, reduces development costs and speeds your products to market.

Available Spring 2015.

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gerber.indd 1 2/26/15 6:30:38 PM