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A History of Italian Food in Australia with Case Studies

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A History of Italian Food in Australia with Case Studies Ideas of Italy and the Nature of Ethnicity: A History of Italian Food in Australia with Case Studies Tania Cammarano Thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Discipline of History School of Humanities University of Adelaide January 2018 Included Publications _______________________________________________________ 5 Abstract _________________________________________________________________ 6 Thesis Declaration _________________________________________________________ 8 Acknowledgements ________________________________________________________ 9 Introduction _____________________________________________________________ 11 Literature Review ________________________________________________________________ 20 Methodology ___________________________________________________________________ 32 Imagining Italy in Australia _________________________________________________________ 36 Romantic Italy ___________________________________________________________________ 37 Glamorous Italy _________________________________________________________________ 40 Attitudes Towards Italian Migrants __________________________________________________ 47 Italian Ethnicity as a Resource ______________________________________________________ 59 Overview of Thesis Structure _______________________________________________________ 61 Statement of Authorship for Chapter One _____________________________________ 66 Chapter One: Leggo’s not-so-Autentico: Invention and Representation in 20th Century Italo-Australian Foodways __________________________________________________ 67 Introduction: Leggo’s is Italian…Isn’t It? ______________________________________________ 67 Background _____________________________________________________________________ 69 Bendigo Roots, 1910s to 1925 ______________________________________________________ 71 An Italian Accent, 1950s to 1975 ____________________________________________________ 73 Italian Glamour, 1975 to 1978 ______________________________________________________ 78 Authentically Italo-Australian, 1978 to the present day __________________________________ 80 How Did Leggo’s Become “Authentically” Italo-Australian? _______________________________ 85 Statement of Authorship for Chapter Two _____________________________________ 87 Chapter Two: The Perfect Cheese Company: Ethnic Entrepreneurs and the Business of Relationships ____________________________________________________________ 88 Introduction ____________________________________________________________________ 88 Background of Natale Italiano, an Ethnic Entrepreneur __________________________________ 91 Relationship with Migrant Consumers _______________________________________________ 95 Selling Cheese to Migrants ______________________________________________________ 97 Advertising ___________________________________________________________________ 99 Pushing into the Mainstream ___________________________________________________ 105 Relationship with Anglo-Australian Retailers and Consumers ____________________________ 111 Educating the Audience: Sellers _________________________________________________ 112 Educating the Audience: Consumers ______________________________________________ 117 Royal Melbourne Show ______________________________________________________ 117 Advertorials _______________________________________________________________ 118 Recipes in Advertisements ___________________________________________________ 119 The Feminine Touch Wine and Food (1978) ______________________________________ 124 Relationship with Anglo-Australian Authorities _______________________________________ 126 Innovators __________________________________________________________________ 127 From Ethnic Outsider to Mainstream Insider _______________________________________ 134 Conclusion _____________________________________________________________________ 141 Statement of Authorship for Chapter Three ___________________________________ 145 2 Chapter Three: Food, Fascism and Forward Thinking: Australia’s First Italo-Australian Cookbook ______________________________________________________________ 146 Introduction ___________________________________________________________________ 146 Is it an “Italian” Cookbook? _______________________________________________________ 152 A Cultural Product of Australia_____________________________________________________ 163 Accessibility ____________________________________________________________________ 164 Fidelity to Origins _______________________________________________________________ 168 Intelligent and Witty _____________________________________________________________ 169 Audience ______________________________________________________________________ 171 Why was it Written? _____________________________________________________________ 173 Statement of Authorship for Chapter Four ____________________________________ 177 Chapter Four: Sweet and Savoury: Pasta in Popular Australian Cookbooks, 1860-1975 178 Introduction ___________________________________________________________________ 178 Methodology __________________________________________________________________ 180 Defining “Pasta” ______________________________________________________________ 185 Versatility _____________________________________________________________________ 188 Pasta as a Substitute for Meat and Suitable for Vegetarians ___________________________ 189 The Influence of Religion _____________________________________________________ 190 Health and Dietary Beliefs ____________________________________________________ 193 Classing Pasta as a Vegetable _________________________________________________ 196 Pasta in Different Courses ______________________________________________________ 198 Pasta for Breakfast _________________________________________________________ 199 Pasta for Dessert ___________________________________________________________ 201 Economy and Frugality in the Kitchen _______________________________________________ 206 Pasta is Cheap but Nutritious ___________________________________________________ 208 Pasta and Leftovers ___________________________________________________________ 209 Macaroni Cheese _____________________________________________________________ 211 Convenience ___________________________________________________________________ 212 Long Shelf Life _______________________________________________________________ 212 Ease ________________________________________________________________________ 213 Speed ______________________________________________________________________ 214 Fresh Pasta __________________________________________________________________ 215 Tinned Spaghetti _____________________________________________________________ 217 Fluidity of Italian Ethnicity ________________________________________________________ 220 Definition ___________________________________________________________________ 220 Pasta has Italian Origins ________________________________________________________ 222 Pasta is Made in Italy __________________________________________________________ 224 Pasta Can Cross Ethnicities _____________________________________________________ 226 The Use of French Language in Pasta Recipes ____________________________________ 226 Pasta Dishes Associated with Other Ethnicities ___________________________________ 228 Pasta is Used in “Italian” Dishes _________________________________________________ 230 Pasta is a Way to Experience Italy ________________________________________________ 239 Elizabeth David’s Italian Food (1954) ___________________________________________ 240 The Margaret Fulton Cookbook (1968) Versus Margaret Fulton’s Italian Cookbook (1973) 242 Conclusion _____________________________________________________________________ 244 Conclusion _____________________________________________________________ 247 Chapter One: Leggo’s not-so-Autentico: Invention and Representation in 20th Century Italo- Australian Foodways ____________________________________________________________ 249 3 Chapter Two: The Perfect Cheese Company: Ethnic Entrepreneurs and the Business of Relationships ___________________________________________________________________ 251 Chapter Three: Food, Fascism and Forward Thinking: Australia’s First Italo-Australian Cookbook ______________________________________________________________________________ 253 Chapter Four: Sweet and Savoury: Pasta in Popular Australian Cookbooks, 1860-1975 _______ 256 Discussion _____________________________________________________________________ 257 Limitations and Future Directions __________________________________________________ 265 Appendix A: Ankeny, Rachel A., and Tania Cammarano. “Leggo’s Not-so-Autentico: Invention and Representation in Twentieth-Century Italo-Australian Foodways.” In Representing Italy Through Food, edited by Peter Naccarato, Zachary Nowak, and Elgin K. Eckert. New York: Bloomsbury Academic, 2017. _______________________________ 273 Appendix B: Cammarano, Tania. “Food, Fascism and Forward Thinking: Australia’s First Italo-Australian Cookbook.” In Eat History: Food and Drink in Australia and Beyond, edited by Sofia Eriksson, Madeleine Hastie, and Tom Roberts, 42–75. Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2013. __________________________________ 287 Appendix C: Chapter Four Cookbook Sample: Chronological Order and Bibliography __ 304 Chronological Order (with shortened title) ___________________________________________ 304 Bibliography of Cookbooks and Recipe Booklets ______________________________________
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