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Lo Streetwear E Il Fashion Ca- Bordeaux» MF fashion il primo quotidiano della moda e del lusso Anno XXX n. 106 - € 0,50 Direttore ed editore Paolo Panerai - Caporedattore Stefano Roncato giovedì 31 maggio 2018 MF fashion I 31.05.18 ONLINE SU MFFASHION.COM LE GALLERY FOTOGRAFICHE DELLE COLLEZIONI CRUISE 2019 LOOK STONE ISLAND PRIMAVERA-ESTATE 2018 LOOK STONE ISLAND PRIMAVERA-ESTATE LLoo sstreetweartreetwear è iill bbestest ssellereller ddell’ell’uuomoomo BBalenciaga,alenciaga, GGucci,ucci, OOff-Whiteff-White e SStonetone iislandsland ssonoono iinn ccimaima aallelle vvenditeendite ddelel ffashionashion mmenswearenswear iinn IItaliatalia ssecondoecondo i mmultimarcaultimarca e i ddepartmentepartment sstoretore iintervistatintervistati ddaa MMFFFF. VVerieri ooggettiggetti ddelel ddesiderioesiderio ssonoono llee ssneakersneakers cco-lab,o-lab, iinn pprimisrimis qquelleuelle ddeiei bbrandrand NNikeike e AAdidasdidas he lo sportswear declinato in tutte le sue espressioni, streetwear in primis, stia spopolando è sotto gli occhi di tutti. Anche dei re- tailer italiani di menswear intervistati da MFF, che si fregano le Cmani per il bilancio positivo di questa primavera-estate. T-shirt, felpe, truck pants e sneakers sono i quattro best seller di questa stagione e, molto probabilmente, lo saranno anche della prossima. Cosa ha fatto dun- que venire l’acquolina ai consumatori? Certe proposte moda, e solo quelle, perché adesso più che mai il business si divide tra i brand o pezzi super richiesti e quelli che giacciono tristemente sugli scaffali. Ma anche la mo- dalità di vendita e l’uso strategico di social network e influencer: tra special edition e collaborazioni ad hoc, tutto ciò che sa di limitato, e quindi esclu- sivo, è vincente. Parallelamente, il mondo del classico perde sempre più terreno. Dalla nostra indagine emerge però che il formalwear ha un futuro se si rinnova e reinventa, ripescando comunque nell’heritage del guarda- roba maschile. Fermo restando che l’upper casual fa da trait d’union fra i 2 mondi. Proprio le contaminazioni sono una chiave di lettura importan- te in un mercato guidato da consumatori, millennials e nativi digitali, in continua evoluzione. Ciò premesso, grande oggetto del desiderio di questo continua a pag. II Sonia Rykiel sfilerà alla couture Stradivarius taglia il menswear Sonia Rykiel sarà uno degli ennesimi marchi di ready to wear ad aggiungere il Stradivarius ha sospeso la produzione della sua linea maschile ad appena proprio nome a quello dei guest dell’haute couture parigina. La casa di moda pa- 15 mesi dal lancio. Il marchio fast fashion di proprietà del colosso spagnolo rigina è stata infatti invitata dalla Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode Inditex aveva ampliato le sue collezioni nel febbraio 2017, debuttando in 20 a festeggiare il suo cinquantesimo compleanno, presentando una collezione bat- paesi con un’offerta menswear di abbigliamento, scarpe e accessori compresi tezzata L’atelier durante la fashion week di luglio, in calendario dal 1° al 5 luglio. in una fascia di prezzo tra i 15 e i 170 euro. Ora il brand tornerà a focalizzar- La collezione metterà in luce sia il lavoro di Julie de Libran, attuale direttore cre- si sulle linee donna, grazie alle quali nel 2017 ha sfiorato 1,48 miliardi di euro, ativo della maison, sia il savoire faire storico dell’omonima fondatrice del brand. riportando una crescita del 10% rispetto ai precedenti 1,34 miliardi del 2016. L’evento è fissato per la mattinata di domenica 1° luglio all’École des beaux-arts Tali risultati hanno comportato un incremento del 9% del fatturato comples- di Parigi, location che da qualche stagione a questa parte ospita gli show del mar- sivo del gruppo comprendente Zara, Massimo Dutti, Pull & bear, Bershka e chio controllato da Fung brands. Oysho, salito lo scorso anno a 25,3 miliardi di euro. II MF fashion giovedì 31 maggio 2018 Analisi Debutti Alberta Ferretti svelerà le Altagamma si interroga divise Alitalia con la Resort Alberta sul futuro del lusso italiano Ferretti ha scelto un’oc- L’associazione ha presentato a Montecitorio un volume sul comparto casione e una loca- del Made in Italy, mettendo a fuoco l’importanza di alcune variabili, in tion speciali primis la formazione e lo sviluppo del digitale. Donatella Perrone (Roma) per svelare le nuove divi- ltre 70 contributor hanno parte- ma basato sugli ecosistemi. «Più aperti lione di euro di fatturato agli oltre 100 se realizzate cipato alla stesura di Strategie sono, più produttivi sono», ha spiegato di quest’anno. La parte del leone in que- per Alitalia. per l’Italia d’eccellenza, il vo- Illy, «quello più competitivo è rappre- sto scenario la gioca però l’istruzione. Come an- Olume edito da Skira che ieri sentato dalla Silicon valley, pochi sanno «Un’indagine interna ha fatto emergere nunciato da Altagamma ha presentato a palazzo però che è nato un dato spaventoso, ovve- MFF (vede- Montecitorio durante la sua annuale da un problema ro che nei prossimi 5 anni re MFF del consulta strategica. «Il libro rappresen- di povertà, ed è le imprese non troveran- 30 novembre ta un’opportunità di ascolto per capire scaturito proprio no almeno 280 mila figure 2017) la sti- come ci vedono da fuori. Questo è stato dallo studio dei professionali qualificate», lista, a capo il primo e fondamentale driver per iden- sistemi industriali ha spiegato Giovanni dell’omonima casa di moda del grup- tificare i gap da colmare per essere più italiani». Inoltre: Brugnoli di Confindustria. po Aeffe, è stata artefice del rinnovo competitivi», ha spiegato Andrea Illy, «È importan- La formazione quindi di- del guardaroba della compagnia di ban- presidente della Fondazione. «Siamo già te che le aziende venta fondamentale per diera italiana con uniformi per il suo un’industria che va molto bene, con un comprendano l’im- non penalizzare imprese personale di volo e di terra (nella foto, contributo diretto al Pil del 5% circa e portanza della che abbiano una traietto- due bozzetti). I completi saranno pre- un numero di settori industriali coinvol- finanza, quella sa- ria di crescita e sviluppo. sentati durante la sfilata resort 2019 e ti pari ad una dozzina», ha continuato na, necessaria alla L’incontro inoltre ha messo limited edition di Alberta Ferretti, che il manager, introducendo le 4 strategie crescita», ha con- in luce carenze logistiche, si terrà a Milano il prossimo 15 giugno, (industriale, fiscale di formazione e di tinuato Claudio distributive e di vendita, so- che si svolgerà a Palazzo reale. «Questo comunicazione ), individuate nel volume Marenzi, pre- prattutto dal punto di vista è un progetto unico ed emozionan- e ripercorse dai professionisti intervenu- sidente di Pitti Andrea Illy tecnologico, da combattere te che ho preso a cuore sin dal primo ti al summit, necessarie per permettere immagine e nu- con investimenti mirati, dei momento. Sono felice di presentar- al Paese di entrare in un circolo virtuoso mero uno di 520 milioni che in questo lo durante la settimana della moda di in cui diminuire debito pubblico e di- Herno raccontando di come l’intu- triennio il governo ha messo a disposi- Milano in una cornice così ufficiale co- soccupazione e creare più investimenti. izione avuta nel 2007 di permettere zione per promuovere il made in Italy, me Palazzo reale in piazza del Duomo», È indispensabile individuare politiche l’accesso di un fondo di investimen- 170 sono stati destinati ai beni di alta ha dichiarato la stilista. (riproduzione industriali focalizzate sull’industria ad ti all’interno dell’azienda di famiglia, gamma, e favorendo la digitalizzazio- riservata) Sara Rezk alto valore aggiunto, favorendo un siste- abbia portato il marchio da qualche mi- ne. (riproduzione riservata segue da pag. I è però sempre più polarizzato: alcuni brand hanno un sell di scegliere il proprio personale outfit», ha detto la general out del 90%, mentre altri sono inchiodati al 10%. L’appeal manager Federica De Respinis, figlia di Amedeo, fonda- periodo sono state le sneakers Off-White for Nike, esau- creato intorno al nome, grazie a edizioni limitate, collabo- tore dell’insegna. «Nei multimarca come i nostri restano rite nei negozi in 20 minuti. Il marchio disegnato da Virgil razioni ed eventi di lancio è fondamentale: uno per tutti strategici il servizio alla clientela e le proposte mirate, in Abloh è top seller nel nostro paese insieme a Gucci, quello delle sneakers Off-White for Nike». Sempre in te- grado ancora di fare la differenza rispetto alla modalità Balenciaga e Stone island. «Questa primavera i clienti ma di calzature, One block down a Milano è uno dei punti d’offerta, inevitabilmente più asettica, delle piattaforme hanno mostrato più interesse e disponibilità soprattutto nei di riferimento per i brand più amati dai giovani, a parti- online», ha aggiunto De Respinis. Concorda sui concetti di confronti dello street evoluto, che ha riportato tanti giova- re da Nike e Adidas. «Il mercato continua a premiare la accoglienza e customer care Ludovico Campanini, titola- ni nei nostri negozi», ha detto a MFF Beppe Angiolini di nostra formula. Abbiamo messo le basi della nostra cre- re di The store, a Milano, il cui focus è, però, il formalwear Sugar ad Arezzo e presidente onorario di Camera italia- dibilità 10 anni fa scommettendo sullo sportswear, che ha moderno: «Crediamo nel classico contemporaneo, che con- na buyer moda, precisando: «In questo ambito il New cominciato a flirtare in modo sempre più importante con tinua a rinnovarsi. Siamo molto radicati nel territorio, con guards group, da Off-White a Palm angels, il 50-60% di habitué, grazie alla for- da Heron Preston a Unravel, gioca un ruo- te all’opera di fidelizzazione. Tra gli lo da protagonista. Da tenere d’occhio anche stranieri sono i giapponesi a prefe- A-Cold-Wall*. E poi ci sono le sneakers in rirci», ha spiegato il dettagliante. «Il limited edition che attirano più di ogni altra pantalone di gusto rétro, con 2 pince cosa, a partire da quelle di Nike, Adidas, e volumi anni 50 e 60, di brand come Balenciaga, Prada, Gucci, Off-White».
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