An Exploration of Social Status Through the Rouse Hill House Jewellery Collection, 1801 to 1924
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Hidden Jewellery Revealed: an exploration of social status through the Rouse Hill House jewellery collection, 1801 to 1924. Julie Oliver A thesis in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Philosophy School of Art and Design August 2020 Thesis/Dissertation Sheet Australia's Global UNSW University SYDNEY Surname/Family Name Oliver Given Name/s Julie Gai Abbreviation for degree as give in the University calendar MPhil Faculty Art and Design School Art and Design Thesis Title Hidden Jewellery Revealed: an exploration of social status through the Rouse HIii House jewellery collection, 1801 to 1924. Abstract 350 words maximum: (PLEASE TYPE) Rouse Hill House is an early colonial mansion on the outskirts of Sydney built by Richard and Elizabeth Rouse, free settlers from England, who arrived in Sydney in 1801. Six generations of the Rouse family lived in the house between the 1820s and the 1970s, when it was bought by the New South Wales Government and turned into a museum. Hidden in the drawers of what once was the servants' quarters is a collection comprising over 150 pieces of mostly costume jewellery. Through a detailed study of the Rouse jewellery collection, this research project explores the importance of social status for early free settlers in Australia. Such a collection is rare indeed in Australia. Although the jewellery was itemised when the house was sold, this is the first time that the collection has been discussed in its entirety. This thesis reveals the needs, pleasures and aspirations of a colonial Australian family, seen through the eyes of their jewellery, supported by literature from various sources including art, design, archaeology and sociology. In addition, the collection illustrates the history of jewellery design in middle-class Australia, including the adherence to British norms in dress and fashion, which became apparent in the early 19th century. Selected items, which illustrate motifs from periods such as Egyptian and Greek revival and Art Nouveau are discussed in detail. Techniques, such as pique, Berlin ironwork and the use of jet illustrate that Australian women were keen to adopt styles from their home country. The collection also shows the emerging Australian identity, which is evident in the jewellery belonging to the Rouses from the beginning of the 20th century. The theory of jewellery put forward by Dutch collector, Marjan Unger {2019), provides the framework for this research project, allowing classification of significant items in the collection. Portraits, photographs and receipts add to the provenance of the collection. The aim of this thesis is to 'shine a light' on a neglected part of Australian history, specifically the role which jewellery has played in the formation of identity and social status during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Declaration relating to disposition of project thesis/dissertation I hereby grant to the University of New South Wales or its agents a non-exclusive licence to archive and to make available (including to members of the public) my thesis or dissertation in whole or in part in the University libraries in all forms of media, now or here after known. I acknowledge that I retain all intellectual property rights which subsist in my thesis or dissertation, such as copyright and patent rights, subject to applicable law. I also retain the right to use all or part of my thesis or dissertation in future works (such as articles or books). Signature The University recognises that there may be exceptional circumstances requiring restrictions on copying or conditions on use. Requests for restriction for a period of up to 2 years can be made when submitting the final copies of your thesis to the UNSW Library. Requests for a longer period of restriction may be considered in exceptional circumstances and require the approval of the Dean of Graduate Research. ORIGINALITY STATEMENT ‘I hereby declare that this submission is my own work and to the best of my knowledge it contains no materials previously published or written by another person, or substantial proportions of material which have been accepted for the award of any other degree or diploma at UNSW or any other educational institution, except where due acknowledgement is made in the thesis. Any contribution made to the research by others, with whom I have worked at UNSW or elsewhere, is explicitly acknowledged in the thesis. I also declare that the intellectual content of this thesis is the product of my own work, except to the extent that assistance from others in the project's design and conception or in style, presentation and linguistic expression is acknowledged.’ Signed …………………………………………….............. Date …………………………………………….............. COPYRIGHT STATEMENT ‘I hereby grant the University of New South Wales or its agents a non-exclusive licence to archive and to make available (including to members of the public) my thesis or dissertation in whole or part in the University libraries in all forms of media, now or here after known. I acknowledge that I retain all intellectual property rights which subsist in my thesis or dissertation, such as copyright and patent rights, subject to applicable law. I also retain the right to use all or part of my thesis or dissertation in future works (such as articles or books).’ ‘For any substantial portions of copyright material used in this thesis, written permission for use has been obtained, or the copyright material is removed from the final public version of the thesis.’ Signed ……………………………………………........................... Date …………………………………………….............................. AUTHENTICITY STATEMENT ‘I certify that the Library deposit digital copy is a direct equivalent of the final officially approved version of my thesis.’ Signed ……………………………………………........................... Date …………………………………………….............................. INCLUSION OF PUBLICATIONS STATEMENT Australia's Global University UNSW is supportive of candidates publishing their research results during their candidature as detailed in the UNSW Thesis Examination Procedure. Publications can be used in their thesis in lieu of a Chapter if: • The candidate contributed greater than 50% of the content in the publication and is the "primary author", ie. the candidate was responsible primarily for the planning, execution and preparation of the work for publication • The candidate has approval to include the publication in their thesis in lieu of a Chapter from their supervisor and Postgraduate Coordinator. • The publication is not subject to any obligations or contractual agreements with a third party that would constrain its inclusion in the thesis Please indicate whether this thesis contains published material or not: This thesis contains no publications, either published or submitted for publication □ (if this box is checked, you may delete all the materialon page 2) Some of the work described in this thesis has been published and it has been documented in the relevant Chapters with acknowledgement (if this box is checked, you may delete all the material on page 2) This thesis has publications (either published or submitted for publication) □ incorporated into it in lieu of a chapter and the details are presented below CANDIDATE'S DECLARATION I declare that: • I have complied with the UNSW Thesis Examination Procedure • where I have used a publication in lieu of a Chapter, the listed publication(s) below meet(s) the requirements to be included in the thesis. Table of Figures Figure 1: Rouse Family Tree 1774 - 1999 ................................................................................. xv Figure 2: Rouse Hill House and Farm. Source: Sydney Living Museums ................................................................................................ 1 Figure 3: Rouse family, September 1859. Source: Rouse Hill House and Farm, SLM .................................................................................. 5 Figure 4: Subscription to The Town and Country Journal, 1885. Source: Rouse Hill House and Farm, SLM ................................................................................ 10 Figure 5: Spike of Receipts at Rouse Hill House. Source: Rouse Hill House and Farm, SLM ................................................................................ 12 Figure 6: John Richard Rouse (1801-1873), eldest son of Richard Rouse. Source: Rouse Hill House and Farm, SLM ................................................................................ 14 Figure 7: Richard Rouse of Guntawang (1842-1903), grandson of Richard Rouse. Source: Rouse Hill House and Farm, SLM ................................................................................ 14 Figure 8: The sitting room, Rouse Hill House, June 2004. Source: Sydney Living Museums .............................................................................................. 30 Figure 9: Advertisement in Jackson's Oxford Journal, No. 736, Page 2, 6th June, 1767. Source: Oxfordshire History Centre, Oxford, UK ..................................................................... 34 Figure 10: Advertisement in Jackson's Oxford Journal, 29th December 1781, page 3. Source: Oxfordshire History Centre, Oxford, UK ..................................................................... 35 Figure 11: Elizabeth Rouse Portrait Miniature. Source: State Library of NSW ................................................................................................... 38 Figure 12: Reverse side of Elizabeth Rouse mourning brooch. Source: State Library