SEPTEMBER 2016

Japan’s number one English language magazine

Five style-defining brands that are reinventing tradition

SEXISM IN THE CITY Will men and women ever be equal in Japan’s workforce?

“WE’RE SIMPLY BUYING TOO MUCH” Change the way you shop

PLUS: The Plight of the Phantom Pig, Healthy Ice Cream, The Beauties of Akita, Q&A with Paralympics Athlete Saki Takakuwa

36 20 24 30 SEPTEMBER 2016SEPTEMBER radar in-depth guide THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS COFFEE-BREAK READS CULTURE ROUNDUP

8 AREA GUIDE: SENDAGAYA 19 SEXISM IN THE CITY 41 THE ART WORLD Where to eat, drink, shop, relax, and climb Will men and women ever be equal This month’s must-see exhibitions, including a miniature Mt. Fuji in Japan’s workforce? a “Dialogue with Trees,” and “a riotous party” at the Hara Museum. 10 STYLE 24 “WE’RE SIMPLY BUYING TOO MUCH” Bridge the gap between summer and fall Rika Sueyoshi explains why it’s essential 43 BOOKS with transitional pieces including one very that we start to change the way we shop See Tokyo through the eyes – and beautiful on-trend wrap skirt illustrations – of a teenager 26 THE PLIGHT OF THE PHANTOM PIG 12 BEAUTY Meet the couple fighting to save Okinawa’s 44 AGENDA We round up the season’s latest nail colors, rare and precious Agu breed Take in some theatrical Japanese dance, eat all featuring a little shimmer for a touch of the hottest food, and enter an “Edo-quarium” glittery glamor 28 GREAT LEAPS We chat with long jumper Saki Takakuwa 46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES 14 TRENDS as she prepares for the 2016 Paralympics Hanging out with Cyndi Lauper, Usain Bolt, If you can’t live without ice cream but you’re and other luminaries trying to eat healthier, then you’ll love these 30 COVER FEATURE: YUKATA & KIMONO vegan and fruity options. Plus, the most TREND REPORT 2016 50 BACK IN THE DAY delicious kakigori ever Five brands that are reinventing tradition Digging into 46 years of Weekender archives

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 3 SEPTEMBER 2016

Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producers Asi Rinestine Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Annemarie Luck Senior Editor Alec Jordan

Art Director Liam Ramshaw

Features Writer Matthew Hernon

Contributors Vivian Morelli Luca Eandi Bill Hersey Dorothee Erle Kyoko Yukioka

Sales Director Takaaki Murai Sales Executives Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Mary Rudow Yu Suzuki

Media Strategist Mandy Lynn Media Relations Junko Shimaya Media Producers Yumi Idomoto Claudia Sun

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970

Published monthly at JPR Sendagaya Building 8F 4-23-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0051 (03) 6863-3096 / (03) 5413-3050 (fax) [email protected]

To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: [email protected]

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広告に関するお問い合わせ先 電話：(03)6863-3096 メール：[email protected]

Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

4 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER @mizrama: Alec, here’s a question: if your wife had @mizrama: A lot of the women I interviewed felt asked you to take her name when you got married, that while a door has been opened, Japan still has a how would you have felt about doing that? long way to go. Kaori Sasaki, for one, described this as the beginning of Japan’s era of diversity, although @bapawn: Hmm ... that is a tricky one, particularly she noted that it took a man in power – Prime from the cross-cultural point of view. My wife hasn’t Minister Abe – to instigate the kind of change she’s changed her name to mine, and if she were to have been campaigning for over the last three decades. asked, I would probably have gone with a hyphenated Nevertheless, Japan is lucky to have inspirational name – if things like that were even allowed in Japan. women like her.

@mizrama: I think that’s a good middle ground. @bapawn: And I’d say that we have a fair number I read an article last night that asked a number of of influential women in this month’s issue. You have men how they felt about this, and I was shocked by Hiroko Takahashi, who’s setting trends with her how many of the answers fed straight into gender modern kimonos [on the cover], Paralympian Saki stereotypes. It made me realize, yet again, how far we Takakuwa [page 28], Akita’s legendary poet Ono no are from closing the gender gap. Komachi [page 36], and Rika Sueyoshi, who is making a big push in the world of ethical consumerism [page 24]. @bapawn: Well, that’s a question that gets right to the heart of gender politics. I’d like to think that the @mizrama: Speaking of ethical consumerism ... you’re US is getting better; from what I’ve seen – with rare from California ... so how come I don’t ever see you exceptions – Japan particularly has a way to go. What sporting a hemp tie? did you find as you were working on your article about the gender gap in the working world here [page 20]? @bapawn: Hey, I thought we were trying to stand up AGAINST stereotypical imagery!

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6 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... As the seasons shift, we’ve rounded up a few things to help ease the transition: healthy ice cream for when September’s temperatures still soar; the best of Sendagaya for an afternoon stroll; and a must-have suede jacket that’ll see you through to winter.

8 AREA GUIDE 10 STYLE 14 TRENDS

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 7 AREA GUIDE

HOLY GHOSTS Sendagaya has been around for centuries, so it’s no surprise that it’s home to several historic temples and shrines. Hato No Mori Hachiman Shrine is one of the last shrines that still contains a fujizuka mound, a miniature Mt. Fuji built out of rocks from the real mountain. It was constructed as a stand-in for people who couldn’t make the pilgrimage but still wanted to pay respect to the Fuji Sengen deity. Nearby, Senjuin Temple is sur- rounded by a large cemetery. Built in the 60s, Sendagaya Tunnel passes under- neath the cemetery and, as a result, taxi drivers tell tales of seeing apparitions and supernatural happenings while driving through the tunnel late at night. SENDAGAYA BEING SURROUNDED BY SHINJUKU, YOYOGI AND HARAJUKU HASN’T

GIVEN SENDAGAYADYNAMIC AN NEIGHBORHOOD INFERIORITY COMPLEX STANDS – ONTHIS ITS UNASSUMING OWN YET Words and photographs by Luca Eandi

A NIGHT OUT Noh, a form of classical Japanese musical drama, is alive and well in Sendagaya, thanks in large part to the National Noh Theatre, an ideal setting to catch a performance. Many Noh theater groups and organizations are also based in the neighborhood, and actors can often be seen in costume, practicing their craft in the open theater within Hato No Mori Hachiman Shrine. If 14th century plays don’t fit your idea of a fun night out, then perhaps you can catch some more contemporary music at Bonobo Bar, a welcoming neighborhood institution that’s equal parts cocktail bar, restaurant, nightclub and art gallery. The atmosphere is relaxed and the clientele is mostly local.

8 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER PARKS & RECREATION Of course, Sendagaya wouldn’t be a complete neighborhood without its share of outdoor recreational parks. Luckily, the neighborhood is basically surrounded by greenery. Shinjuku Gyoen, one of the premiere spots in Tokyo for viewing cherry blossoms during hanami season, is to the north. And one of the most visited spots in Yoyogi Park, Meiji Shrine Gyoen, lies just west of Sendagaya. Meiji Jingu Gaien is to the east, boasting several sport venues, including an ice skating rink and Japan National Stadium. One of the most iconic structures of Sendagaya, Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium, is also nearby, edged by a large plaza where you can get a nice sunset view of the Empire State-like NTT Docomo building and the Shinjuku skyline.

THREE SQUARE MEALS Given that Sendagaya is as much a commer- cial area as it is residential, there are plenty of places to grab a bite to eat at any time of day. Good Morning Cafe, near Senda- gaya Station, offers eggs, French toast, and even healthy açai/yogurt/granola bowls for breakfast. For a quick lunch, Bird & Ruby has good espresso and pressed sandwiches. Next door, Monmouth is a stand specializing in tea, quiche and pie. For something more substantial, Hopuken is a three-story haven of fatty pork ramen sure to fill your savory needs. Snack time calls for an organic David Otto Juice or Kippy’s Coco-Cream’s [full review on page 14] coconut-based ice cream sweetened with raw local honey. For a hearty karē dinner, there’s Curry Bar Hendrix or Mokubaza. And for pun-tastic Vietnamese, Pho321 serves delicious pho noodles and bahn mi sandwiches.

IT’S THE FASHION Thanks to its location next to Harajuku, Sendagaya is home to dozens of fashion stores, studios and offices, especially in the 3-chome area. Many of the clothing warehouses in the area hold seasonal sam- ple sales and special promotions, making for quite a mob scene of deal-seekers and thrifty shoppers. Fashion brand A Bathing Ape (or Bape) is one such company based in Sendagaya, along with dozens of others. Southern California-based brand Ron Herman has a boutique offering men’s and women’s apparel, as well as a slice of SoCal at its Sendagaya store, which includes a popular café and surf shop. There are plen- ty of highly specialized apparel stores too, such as No No Yes – a team of masterful tailors, dealing exclusively in leather.

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER| SEPTEMBER 2016 2016 | 9| 9 STYLE

GIVENCHY BRACELET If you’re looking for a subtle accessory that has just the right amount of punk rock, this studded leather bracelet from none other than French brand Givenchy is your best bet. The Parisian couture house is known for pairing dark romanticism with streetwear edge, and this bracelet is the perfect example. We like the thick black leather and glossy copper studs, which give this accessory a rebellious air without being too over the top. givenchy.com

TRANSITIONAL PIECES TO BRIDGE THE GAP BETWEEN SUMMER AND FALL, STARRING THE ON-TREND WRAP SKIRT, AND A SLIM-FIT SUEDE JACKET

Compiled by Vivian Morelli

TOM FORD JACKET Tom Ford suede jacket: these four words are all you need this season. Immaculately tailored suits, plush textures and luxurious accessories are Mr Ford’s expertise, and once again he does not disappoint. This slim- fit number is made from olive-toned suede and finished with sleek snaps and zippers. The best thing about this jacket is that it looks striking simply thrown over a T-shirt, so it might save you a headache if you’re not sure what to wear. tomford.com PRADA PLATFORM SANDALS Fresh off Prada’s fall ’16 runway, these sandals will make you feel elevated – both figuratively and literally. The 13 cm platform can be a tad intimidating for beginners, but the sturdy block heel will keep you firmly balanced. Of course, these shoes are crafted in Italy (where else?), and they feature crisscrossing leather straps and plush velvet, a key fabric for fall. Keep them summery with a camisole and flowy skirt, and add tights and a feminine coat for the colder days. prada.com

SAINT LAURENT HANDBAG A new season means a new handbag, and we can’t think of any- thing better than the iconic Saint Laurent Sac De Jour. This classic bag from the French label is a staple you will use for many years to come, so the price tag is easily justified. The standout forest-green shade with snakeskin trim is a new addition to this autumn’s collec- tion, and the only decoration is discreet gold lettering and a hidden gold lock. Whether you use the strap to wear it cross-body or hold it with your hand, this item will soon become indispensable. ysl.com

MONTBLANC FOUNTAIN PEN Being slightly old-fashioned is never a bad thing in a world dominated by electronic devices. When’s the last ISABEL MARANT time you actually invested in some MINI SKIRT stationery, if ever? Start building your This is the perfect piece to seamlessly collection with a pen from Montblanc, transition from summer to fall. The a brand that has been synonymous pale hue and lightweight material are with the finest writing culture for over ideal for often-sweltering September a hundred years. This particular Rouge days, and the 80s punk rock vibe makes et Noir design, from the Heritage it appropriate for Tokyo nights out. We Collection, is inspired by one of its first love the wrap effect and glossy coating, fountain pens that functioned without and since it’s such a statement item, an inkwell. Show it off next time you’re it’s best to pair it with a simple blouse filling out countless pages of paper- (or a cotton T-shirt) and ankle boots. work – it might actually bring some isabelmarant.com pleasure to an otherwise mundane task. givenchy.com JILL STUART NAIL LACQUER R STARRY NAVY This beauty is one of five colors making up Jill Stuart’s “Nail Lacquer R (2016 Fall Collection)” which hit stores last month. Like the night sky scattered with stars, this deep navy glitter polish gives a beautiful, smooth finish that dries super quickly. It also contains rosemary extract, lavender oil, and avocado oil ensuring your nails stay moisturized through Japan’s dry winter weather. ¥1,500, www.jillstuart-beauty.com ALL THAT GLITTERS

THREE METAL ROSE, PUNK POETRY, NO SLEEP ’TIL BROOKLYN, WALK THIS WAY One of our current favorite local brands, Three launched their fall 2016 range on August 10 under the name “Walk the Line.” These four deep, rich nail colors are perfect for easing into cooler weather, while their gentle glitter glow en- sures the mood stays light. They also include moisturizing organic ingredients such as avocado oil, jojoba oil, and rosehip oil, and their oxygen-permeable formulation allows your nails to breathe. ¥1,800, www.threecosmetics.com BEAUTY

ALL THAT GLITTERSNAIL ART TREND WATCH DRESS YOUR NAILSFOR UP FALL/WINTER IN THE LATEST 2016 SPARKLY We spoke to COLORS the team at Joli Nails to Compiled by Annemarie Luck & Dorothee Erle find out more about this season’s most popular designs...

RMK NAIL COLOR CLASSIC GREY Inspired by the Golden Age of Hollywood, Japanese brand RMK’s fall/winter 2016 range seeks to recreate the iconic beauty of stars such as Lauren Bacall, Elizabeth Taylor, and Rita Hayworth. To complement their metallic HANDS eye shadows, go for this Nail Color Classic “For fingernails, we recommend staying classy Grey, which provides a shimmering touch of and office friendly, but you can still mix and glamor. Also look out for their Classic Silver match to keep things interesting,” says Mitsue. and Classic Khaki. ¥1,500, rmkrmk.com See-through hues, whites and nudes on short, oval or square-shaped nails are currently top of the pops. Enhance the look with emulated rhinestones, pearls, seashells, marble effects, and gold details (including plated gold for those who want to splash out). “If you’re longing for a pop of color, highlight only one part of the nail or ask for color gradation.”

ADDICTION NAIL POLISH VOLCANO FEET “While we like to keep things fairly toned down Created in 2009 by New York-based Japa- on fingertips, we like to go a little wilder on the nese make-up artist Ayako, who has worked toes,” says Mitsue. Black polish with interesting alongside big names including Karl Lagerfeld, patterns is popular at the moment, but so are Steven Meisel, and Terry Richardson, Addiction bright hues such as hot pink or flashy tomato is known for producing high quality cosmetics red. To add a final flourish, ask for glittery high- with a luxurious yet no-frills finish. The brand’s lights on one or more of your nails. fall 2016 range is called “Modern Nostalgia” and launched on August 5, and we’re already madly Look out for Joli Nails’ “Nagomi Collection at in love with their pretty glitter-based nail colors. Grand Hyatt Tokyo” which is inspired by Japanese ¥1,944, www.addiction-beauty.com ceramic art and is set to debut soon at Grand Hyatt’s Nagomi Spa and Fitness. www.jolinails.jp, 03 6721 9669, #jolinailstokyo TRENDS

BROWN SUGAR 1ST

THE STORY If you’re always on the lookout for quality coconut-based prod- ucts, you’ve most probably noticed Brown Sugar 1st’s range of products popping up on the shelves of health shops and Natural Lawson. Founder Midori Ogina started off small in 2011 with the desire to provide her children with natural, healthy sweets. In June 2016, she opened her first store in Harajuku, which sells the full line, includ- ing coconut sugar, oil, and nectar, and also boasts an ice cream bar. WHY WE LOVE THEM Now, about that ice cream: It’s organic, vegan, soy- free, and made with coconut milk as a base. They test each recipe for quality and taste in-house, ensuring that the flavor will appeal even to those who are not spe- cifically looking for vegan options. WHAT TO TRY There are six flavors to choose from, but we go for the mint choc- olate chip every time. ¥320-¥400. 3-28-8 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. bs1st.com Ice Ice Baby HEALTHY ICE CREAM? YES, INDEED. HERE ARE FOUR PLACES TO ENJOYCompiled THE by TREAT Annemarie WITHOUT Luck THE GUILT

KIPPY’S COCO-CREAM

THE STORY When co-founder Kippy Miller discovered that adding raw coconut cream to her diet helped to ward off the mi- graine headaches she’d been suffering from, she started experimenting with using it as a base ingredient for non-dairy ice cream. In 2013, she and her business partner Max Wolf opened Kippy’s Ice Cream Shop in Venice, California, and in late 2015 their branch in Tokyo’s Sendagaya neighborhood followed. WHY WE LOVE THEM Besides being delicious and creamy enough to pass for the real deal, Kippy’s ice cream is raw, organic, non-dairy, and sweetened with raw honey or dates. The team makes everything by hand, even draining, cracking, and shredding the organic coconuts themselves. WHAT TO TRY If you love the taste of coconut, you’re in for a treat as any of the 11 flavors will go down well. Alternatively, go for coffee or cinnamon blends, and top with hon- ey salted caramel sauce and spiced pecans. ¥500-¥900, ¥100 per topping. 2-6-3 Senda- gaya, Shibuya-ku. kippysicecream.com

14 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER MIHANE

THE STORY This brand combines two trends in one: vegetable ice cream, which became popular in Tokyo a couple of years ago, and vegan menus. We like how they’ve quietly built a following from their store in the backstreets of Okayama in Meguro. WHY WE LOVE THEM Not a coconut fan? Then Mihane’s vegan ice cream blend will probably suit you best as it’s made from a base of low-fat brown rice milk. It’s sweetened with 100% organic agave nectar. Other ingredients include fruit, vegetables, nuts, and herbs, making it highly nutritious too. Best of all, you can order the ice cream in tubs from their online store. WHAT TO TRY There’s always a lineup of interesting flavors including pumpkin, carrot, and even tomato, so try something different and go for a veggie ice cream. ¥290-¥830. 1-4-5 Okayama, Meguro-ku. mihane.jp

FROM TOP Kippy’s Coco-Cream comes in plenty of flavors with delicious toppings

ENJOY COFFEE OR CINNAMON BLENDS, WITH HONEY SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE OR SPICED PECANS

PALETAS

THE STORY The idea behind Paletas’ popsicles was to find a unique way to enjoy seasonal fruits and vegetables. The name and concept was inspired by Mexican ice pops, which are called paletas, and are famed for their unusual mix of light and refreshing ingredients. The brand’s first store opened in Kamakura in 2013, and they now have Tokyo branches in Daikanyama, Roppongi, and Kichijoji. WHY WE LOVE THEM There are so many flavors to choose from that you could buy a different one every day of the month. The ingredients are natural and additive-free so you’re getting the real goodness of fresh fruit and veg (some flavors contain milk or yogurt, so be sure to ask if you want diary-free). Also, they just look so darn pretty! WHAT TO TRY We recently popped by their Tokyo Mid- town branch, and we’d recommend the Rose Hip Tea (¥500) or Pina Colada (¥480) flavors. For the full list of locations, visit paletas.jp

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 15 Ice Monster’s Omotesando store [ PROMOTION ]

ALL SCREAM FOR ICE MONSTER WEEKENDER STOPS BY THE KAKIGORI CAFÉ TO TASTE TEST

THE LATEST MENU kakigori lovers who would flock to the flag- ship store when on holiday in Taiwan for a taste of the now-famous dessert. The brand ut how do they make it expanded into China, and then opened its so smooth?” This was the first store in Tokyo in April 2015, with an first question we asked Osaka branch following in March 2016. “Bwhen we sat down at Until the end of September, Ice Monster Ice Monster’s café and ate our first melt- also has a pop-up shop in Tokyo Midtown, in-the-mouth spoonful of mango kakigori which is the only branch serving this (shaved ice). The answer, we’re told, lies in season’s delicious “Pineapple Sensation” the unique recipe created by the Taiwanese (¥1,500 eat-in, ¥1,200 take-out). Other flavors founder of Ice Monster, Frank Lo. to choose from at the pop-up café include The trick to achieving such soft and “Mango Sensation” (¥1,500 eat-in, ¥1,200 airy shaved ice lies in the original ice brick take-out), “Strawberry Sensation” (¥1,400 recipe, which incorporates mainly fresh eat-in, ¥1,100 take-out), and “Bubble Milk ingredients including mango, coffee, and Sensation” (¥1,000 eat-in, ¥900 take-out), others. The mixture is then frozen into a, which is tea-flavored and comes with a top- well, monster block of ice, before being ping of chewy tapioca balls usually served in machine-shaved to create the massive bowl Taiwanese bubble tea. Every bowl also comes CONTACT of kakigori that lands on your table. This with a dollop of panna cotta, which balances Tokyo Omotesando method sets Ice Monster’s kakigori apart out the sweetness of the dish. 6-3-7 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku from the conventional way of serving the What happens come winter, you ask? Phone: 03 6427 4100 popular treat, which usually consists of Die-hard enthusiasts claim that eating kakig- plain shaved ice topped with various flavor- ori is even better when the weather is cold Tokyo Midtown Pop Up Shop ings. It also makes it more delicious, with because you can enjoy the contrast between (until September 30, 2016) the fruity taste lingering right through to cozy indoor heating and the freezing treat. B1F, 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku your final spoonful. But in case you’d prefer something a tad www.ice-monster.com Founded in Taipei in 1997, Ice Monster warmer, watch this space for Ice Monster’s built up a loyal fanbase amongst Japanese planned menu of Taiwanese hot sweets.

16 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER We Build Dream Homes

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TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 17 [ PROMOTION ] WORK HARD, PLAY HARD LOOKING FOR A SOCIAL SPACE TO HOST BUSINESS MEETINGS? HOTEL THE M INNSOMNIA AKASAKA HAS JUST WHAT YOU NEED

pened in March 2016, HOTEL the M INNSOMNIA akasaka has managed to create the ideal blend between smart Obusiness hotel and casual apartment- style accommodation where co-workers and friends can meet and mingle. Situated in Akasaka, one of Tokyo’s most culturally rich neighborhoods, the hotel welcomes you with warm yet contemporary decor – picture wooden tables, exposed concrete, a lipstick-red sofa, and a cute robot “concierge” called Pepper-kun. And aside from offering seven different types of rooms, there are also unique facilities on offer for guests as well as those who are looking to rent a social or work space for a few hours. One of these spaces is the “Workaholic” room, which comes equipped with a boardroom table, top quality audio system, and large high- definition TV screen. Whether you’re traveling on business and need a place to host meetings and conference calls, or you’re looking to plan a team building or brainstorming session out of the office, the room offers a comfortable area that looks out onto a view of greenery, and feels ‘WORKAHOLIC’ CREATES A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY at once corporate and relaxed. FOR TEAM BONDING AND SOCIALIZING The meeting table is flanked by a whiteboard that takes up one entire wall, giving you ample space for taking down notes and planning strategies. To keep the energy up, you can order freshly brewed speciality coffee by Kyoto brand Unir from the hotel’s café along with croissants and other pastries. For lunch, guests are welcome to bring along their own food and drinks to be enjoyed around the table or in the lounge area. There’s a small kitchen space in the open-plan room, with crockery and cutlery available, so it’s easy to prepare your own meals, and keep ingredients and packaging out the way. Meeting finished? “Workaholic” creates a unique opportunity for team bonding, since you can end your day with a spot of socializing. Take a seat on one of the comfy leather chairs, complete with foot rests, and RENT THE enjoy drinks and snacks while watching a “WORKAHOLIC” ROOM sports match or a film (there are plenty to For non-guests, the room costs choose from in the hotel’s movie library). ¥19,000 (including tax and Of course, it’s also a great environment for service fee) per two hours. For friends – if you’re staying at the hotel and you guests at the hotel, it’s half-price. simply want to enjoy a movie night, you can For more information, visit feel free to invite a group of people around www.m-innsomnia.com or call to join you, and even order a few pizzas from 03 3568 3456. any delivery service in Tokyo.

18 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER WHAT’S THE PROBLEM?

If you’ve never felt at a disadvantage because of your gender, you might very well ask this question. You might even be someone who believes the new quota law in Japan is a kind of reverse discrimination. But when the election of Tokyo’s first female governor is tainted by sexist commentary, and when you realise that only 11 percent of women in Japan hold managerial positions, you might want to change the question to “What’s the solution?” In an issue packed with inspiring women, we delve into these questions, while celebrating those who are challenging stereotypes and creating change.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 19 SEXISM IN THE CITY WILL MEN AND WOMEN EVER BE EQUAL IN JAPAN’S WORKFORCE?

Words by Annemarie Luck

We have a new quota law, a new female Tokyo governor, and a prime minister who has turned “womenomics” into a catchphrase. So why does it feel like we’re only skimming the surface of the gender equality issue? We chat to a host of influential women in Tokyo to ask their opinions on whether things are truly changing, and what still needs to be done as Japan enters its era of diversity

20 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER CULTURALLY, WE HAVE BEEN TAUGHT TO MOVE ONE STEP AT A TIME TO WORK OUR WAY THROUGH THE CORPORATE SYSTEM, BUT WOMEN NEED TO FEEL THAT THEY CAN START THINKING DIFFERENTLY

Hecht Harrison, which specializes in out- placements and leadership development. “One of the programs we run is called Elevate Your Influence, and is aimed at helping women take charge of their career,” she says. Referencing the new quota law that took effect in April 2016 and requires companies to publicly dis- Kaori Sasaki close their plans for hiring more women in management positions, she goes on to say: “We can’t just wait for somebody to e cannot leave Kaori Sasaki, CEO of both Ewoman and say, ‘Okay, we are hiring you because we Tokyo to a Unicul, might put it: Koike had to think big. need to meet the targets set by govern- woman with “Think Big” was the theme of this ment.’ Women need to think about how too much year’s International Conference for they can move forward on their own.” make-up.” This Women in Business, an event founded On the flipside, Sugawara notes “Wwas just one of the ludicrous comments by Sasaki 21 years ago. The champion of that when some women do reach top that marred Yuriko Koike’s historical win female empowerment is also no stranger positions, they sometimes end up over- as Tokyo’s first female governor in the July to pushing boundaries in her career, hav- compensating and becoming “monster elections. Uttered by former Tokyo gover- ing stormed her way up the ladder from managers.” “They become overly aggres- nor Shintaro Ishihara, the comment was a position as news reporter for TV Asahi sive because they feel they need to prove laughed off by Koike who claimed she was (during which she was shot in the leg themselves to male co-workers or bosses, “used to it.” (One could almost imagine while reporting from South Africa towards and they lose the feminine leadership Koike chuckling together with Hillary the end of apartheid – but that’s another traits that are so valuable.” Clinton and Theresa May while comparing story). Held in Tokyo shortly before the Tokyo governor Koike, for one, the gender-based attacks they’ve each had elections, the 2016 conference attracted a has indeed been accused of being too to deflect.) But for the rest of the women in record 1,000 participants, with 12 percent aggressive. But unless Abe’s ambitious Japan – and the world, no less – who regu- being male (also a record). The theme, growth strategy is able to truly change larly face battles in the workplace against says Sasaki, was intended to inspire wom- the collective mindset, many women, inequality and condescension, it surely felt en to think about how they can jumpstart like Koike, will find themselves stuck be- like two steps forward one step back. their careers. “Culturally, we have been tween a rock and a hard place. Bearing Her choice of make-up aside, Koike was taught to move one step at a time to work in mind, this is a mindset that has hardly also criticized for running for the position our way through the corporate system, shifted in the 30 years since the 1986 without getting the approval of Prime but women need to feel that they can start equal opportunity law was passed in Minister Shinzo Abe’s Liberal Democratic thinking differently. They need to imagine Japan. In fact, the shift has been so slow Party (LDP). But there was not much else something bigger for how they are going that in 2003, the government set a target she could do. She’s in a male-dominated to move forward from now.” to increase the percentage of women in environment, and Abe chose not to endorse Sasaki is not alone in her philosophy. management positions to 30 percent by her – missing an ideal opportunity, we One person who agrees with her is Paula 2020. Since we’re not anywhere near to might add, to prove his talk of “womenom- Sugawara. She has lived and worked in reaching this goal, Abe has added the ics” is more than just hot air. Ultimately, Japan for 28 years, and is a trained exec- additional quota law in the hope Koike had to blaze her own trail. Or as utive coach and managing director of Lee of prompting better results.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 21 IT’S CRUCIAL TO FIND THE DELICATE BALANCE BETWEEN GIVING WOMEN OPPORTUNITIES AND CHANGING A SYSTEM THAT’S BEEN IN PLACE FOR DECADES

Kyoko Yukioko is a final-year student at Akita International University, and recently wrote her thesis on gender diversity. As she prepares to enter the job market in Japan, she expresses concern about the fact that the he problem, it seems, is that simply Etsuko Tsugihara, president of Tokyo- gender binary system and specific gender hiring more women doesn’t suc- based PR firm Sunny Side Up (SSU) – which roles are still persistent in people’s minds. cessfully address the underlying is- was placed 19th in the world (and 1st in “Women have aimed for the Japanese ideal Tsues. According to the 2016 Global Japan) in the Holmes Report Global Top female image, often pictured in the household Gender Diversity Report by recruitment firm 250 PR Agency Ranking 2016 – could easily as wife or mother. There is a famous term for Hays, there are still fewer women aspiring to be described as possessing such strength. the traditional female ideal model called ‘ryo- top leadership positions, and only 35 percent She was 17 when she started SSU with sai kenbo,’ meaning ‘good wife, wise mother.’ of female survey respondents in Japan said her mother, and by her twenties, she But now we also have to meet society’s new they felt they had opportunities to “self-pro- was running the business. “As SSU grew, expectations, and aim to be the ideal woman mote” and communicate their ambitions in I realized how hard it is for a woman to in the workplace too. I think women might the workplace. Moreover, only 50 percent lead a company in Japan. The male-dom- struggle because society expects them to meet of the female respondents in Japan said that inant workplace was full of jealousy, and both the feminine, beautiful, wife-and-mother they believed they were being paid equally to men constantly talked behind my back image, as well as the hardworking, devoted, their male peers. When you start out feeling and tried to pull me down. It was a daily career-woman image.” like the task is impossible, it takes extraordi- thing,” recalls Tsugihara. “However, I had Even though it makes perfect econom- nary strength to keep up the fight. been working since I was a teenager, and ical sense to willfully employ and promote had experience to draw from, so I didn’t the well-educated but underutilized female let it bother me. I became very insensitive population, it’s crucial to find the delicate Janelle Sasaki to things; maybe that’s the reason I’ve been balance between giving women opportunities able to run the company for 32 years.” and changing a system that’s been in place SSU’s workforce is 55 percent female, for decades. For example, if women are to be and Tsugihara strives to promote an at- encouraged to return to work after having mosphere where “women can work free- a child, companies need to ensure that the ly.” The company even has a “frozen egg working moms are not relegated to a more policy,” which supports women who might junior, menial role upon their return – which want to delay getting pregnant in order to is common in Japan and leads to a large focus on their career. “In this way, we’re number of women simply staying at home. trying to reduce the worries of qualified This is proven to still be the case as recent career women who are considering when statistics released by Japan’s Gender Equality to have a child. In addition, we’ve created Bureau Cabinet Office showed a clear dip in an environment where women can contin- women’s labor force participation after the ue working after giving birth.” age of 30. On a graph comparing Japan to Of course, not all women are built other developed countries, Japan was the with the strength of Tsugihara, Sasaki, only country to still show this M-shaped or governor Koike. We need to consider curve. On this note, Paula Sugawara stresses that many in Japan might feel a massive the importance of creating a reskilling weight of expectation being placed on program for women who may have been them as the country goes through a transi- out of the workforce for many years but tion and enters this “era of diversity,” wish to return. “A lot of it is about confi- as Sasaki terms it. dence,” she says.

22 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER robably the biggest change that and satisfaction. Companies need to leverage needs to happen is in the males’ both diversity and inclusion to be successful mindset and working habits, and tap into the human potential – this leads Psays Sasaki. “I like to joke that to greater opportunity to innovate and a we have too many gentlemen in Japan,” better impact on the bottom line.” THE STATS she says, smiling. “By this I mean that we It’s also important for women to find have many laws and policies that are kind supporters amongst each other. Groups such towards women, such as equal opportunity, as For Empowering Women (FEW) in Japan maternity leave, and flextime. For the last offer regular events aimed at helping women 30 years, these laws have been used mainly to achieve their personal and professional by women, which means that men haven’t potential. “We strive to provide a platform changed their way of working. They still put where women of all backgrounds can in long hours, and end up sacrificing their connect through workshops and networking Japan’s position in the Organisation for time with their family, and not being able to events. We focus our monthly meetings on Economic Co-operation and Development help out at home. But they work these long providing opportunities where the attendees (OECD) adult skills survey published in hours because they believe can learn from speakers and 2013. The results found that adults in Japan they won’t get promoted each other, share their ex- display the highest levels of proficiency in otherwise.” Change needs periences, and go away with literacy and numeracy among adults in all to filter through from the concrete tips that they can put countries participating in the survey. Despite top down so that men and THE MALE- into practice,” says the group’s performing slightly less well than their male women are not only given president, Sarah Achilles. counterparts, Japanese women still rank DOMINANT equal opportunities in the FEW’s PR and communi- highest internationally in both literacy and workplace, but are seen cations director Jodi Harris numeracy proficiency. WORKPLACE as equally responsible for adds: “When women come childcare, and equally enti- WAS FULL OF together across cultural lines, tled to leave work on time we’re stronger and better able without being made to feel JEALOUSY, to advocate for each other’s they are sacrificing their AND MEN needs, whether it’s something future career. like asking for a raise, or Janelle Sasaki, the exec- CONSTANTLY addressing the way women utive director of Diversity & are perceived. In addition to Japan’s position out of 145 countries in Inclusion Services at Ernst TRIED TO PULL the topics covered, the energy the World Economic Forum’s 2015 Global & Young Advisory Japan, ME DOWN created at the meetings by all Gender Gap Report. The report ranks says there are three key of us coming together is what economies according to how well they are areas to focus on in order is so valuable.” leveraging their female talent pool. Iceland to encourage women’s ad- Finally, we turn to Kaori was ranked as number one, while the UK vancement: “Visible career Sasaki to ask how women can came in at 18, and the US at 28. opportunities, flexible working arrange- better deal with any gender-based discrim- ments, and building a supportive workplace ination they might face at work. With her by reducing unconscious bias.” A large part characteristic blend of pragmatism and of Janelle’s role entails helping companies humor, she says, “You should never say that figure out how to leverage diversity and in- you’ve been at a disadvantage because you’re clusion for business growth and innovation. a woman. It’s better to believe that if you’ve “Diversity is the what, and inclusion is the missed opportunities it’s because of some- how. Inclusion is when employees feel sup- thing else, like a bad presentation. Because ported, welcomed, listened to, and accepted. if you start to think that you are not good When companies hire diverse talent, and enough or not given opportunities because that talent feels included and part of one of your gender, then you are giving up. team, there is greater employee engagement Unless you change your gender, right?” The percentage of women in the workforce in Japan (2014). Interestingly, this percentage beat the US (63%), which has seen a decline in female employment rate. However, the key difference lies in the fact that Japan’s female employees are still not often reaching managerial status.

The percentage of women in managerial positions in Japan (2015). The government’s aim of 30% by 2020 had to be lowered to 15% when they realized the country is unlikely to meet the target.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 23 “We’re simply buying too much” Rika Sueyoshi, TV presenter and founder of the Ethical Association in Tokyo, on why it’s essential we start to change the way we shop

Words by Matthew Hernon

elevision presenter Rika Sueyoshi arrives for our interview in a homespun silk dress from Bangladesh that was made using nat- ural products by artisans who were paid a fair wage. Her jewelry comes from Hasu- Tna, a company that ensures laborers receive a share of the profits by procuring their gems directly from mines. The business card she hands over was created from banana stems that would usually have been thrown away by farmers. From her bag to her shoes, the 39-year-old always considers where a product has come from before buy- ing. It’s a far cry from her younger days when she would throw out clothes almost as quickly as she’d purchase them. A lover of high-end brands and bargains, all that mattered was that the clothes looked good and the price was right. That changed around 12 years ago while reporting as a mystery hunter for the TBS program “Discovery of the World’s Mysteries.” “Of course I’d read a lot about inequalities around the globe and the ways in which we were damaging the planet; however, living in Tokyo it’s easy to feel detached from these problems. The turning point came when I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro in 2004. I was really looking forward to reaching the top so I could see the Furtwan- gler Glacier, yet when I got there I was struck by how small it was [over the last 100 years around 85 percent of its ice cover has disappeared]. Local villages that I visited rely on it for drinking water, crop irrigation, and power through hydroelectric production. It was the first time for me to get a real glimpse of the damage that global warming is having, not just on plants and wild- life, but on people’s livelihoods. I immediately wanted to convey what I’d seen to people in Japan.” The US-born celebrity immersed herself in cam- paigns focusing on environmental concerns and fair trade. Last year she formed the Ethical Association

24 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER which arranges various events such as fashion If customers were more aware of incidents shows, markets and clothing swaps where people like this, perhaps they would change their shop- can exchange unwanted items. The organization ping habits. Last year as part of an experiment pushes companies to be more diligent in regards in Alexanderplatz, Berlin, a brightly colored to supply chain management (SCM) and encourages vending machine sold T-shirts for just €2 each. them to undertake initiatives that promote greater When customers inserted their money, a video environmental responsibility. Raising awareness played showing shocking scenes from a textile of ethical consumerism, particularly amongst factory where a girl named Manisha along with young people, is another key component of the other women and children were working without group’s objectives. a break for as little as 13 cents an hour. Given “It’s important that the youth of today realize the choice of donating or purchasing, around 90 their daily shopping habits can have a big impact percent chose the former (watch the video clip at on society,” Sueyoshi says. “This is something tinyurl.com/TWcheap-tshirts). that isn’t really taught at schools so I’m constant- “I think most consumers want to be more ly lobbying the minister of education to try and responsible in the choices they make, but without change that as well as running seminars myself. a constant flow of information it’s difficult,” The purpose isn’t to preach about what people Sueyoshi says. “Take unagi (freshwater eel) or should and shouldn’t be buying, but to encourage pacific Bluefin tuna for example. Many Japanese consumers to ask questions when they shop. Of people eat these products without realizing they course I understand the appeal of purchasing are [on the IUCN red list for] threatened species. fashionable items at rock-bottom prices, yet do you There’s not much about this on the news, so think that skirt could really be sold for ¥500 if it’d unless you’re actively searching for that kind been produced ethically?” of story you probably won’t read about it.” The worst culprits according to Sueyoshi are There’s also the question of how much we fast fashion labels such as Forever 21, H&M, Uniqlo want to know. Some prefer to remain ignorant, and Zara. These companies have completely trans- especially when tucking into a mouth-watering formed the fashion industry, churning out new dish or going on a shopping spree. We all rely on trends on a weekly basis. This has led to a culture computers and cellphones, yet how many of us of disposability. Garments are now so cheap people LIVING IN care about where the material in these products don’t care about getting rid of them. According to comes from? In January, a report by Amnesty statistics from Japan’s Ministry of Economy, Trade TOKYO, IT’S International revealed that kids as young as seven and Industry, for every 10 kilograms of clothes were working in treacherous conditions in the bought here, nine kilograms are thrown away. EASY TO FEEL Democratic Republic of Congo for a dollar a day “We’re simply buying too much (around 80 DETACHED to mine cobalt, a key element used in lithium-ion billion items are purchased annually, a 400 percent batteries. Many high-profile companies including increase from 20 years ago), and that leads to an FROM THESE Apple, Samsung and Microsoft failed to carry out incredible amount of textile waste,” Sueyoshi says. basic checks to ensure the minerals used in their “I realize purchasing organic fair trade cotton is PROBLEMS devices were not mined by children. So should expensive and not everyone can do it, especially we, therefore, feel guilty about buying items from in the current economic climate, but if you were these multinational corporations? to get something from say Patagonia or People Tree Amnesty International fundraising coordina- rather than H&M then it’ll last you much longer tor Yoko Doi doesn’t think so. She does, however, and you’d be less likely to go out and splurge believe we should be more vocal in our condem- on other clothes.” nation, pressuring these companies to change Fast fashion clothing is generally low on qual- their ways. “We can show them there’s a real ity and bad for the environment because of the demand from consumers for ethical smartphones toxic chemicals found in the fabrics, yet as it looks where human rights abuses haven’t occurred. good and is cheap, demand remains high. This It’s time for the big electronic brands to use their has put extra pressure on factories in developing considerable resources and leverage to improve countries to produce stock quickly, and employees the situation for workers at the start of the chain. are subsequently forced to work long hours in dan- The mining of cobalt provides employment and is gerous and unhealthy conditions for low wages. important for DRC’s economy, but that certainly The collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in doesn’t justify the exploitation of children who Dhaka three years ago highlighted how appalling complained of being frequently ill and in pain the situation had become. The tragedy, which from heavy lifting.” killed 1,130 people and injured over 2,500, could The likes of Sony and Apple have since have been avoided if proper precautions had been released statements promising to address the taken. Just five months earlier, 117 people died as issue, while Samsung via its Sustainability Report a result of a fire at the Tazreen factory in the same pledged to redouble the company’s “efforts to find city. Following these incidents, the Accord on Fire ways to resolve these challenges.” It’s encourag- and Building Safety in Bangladesh was signed by ing to hear, but without Amnesty’s report nothing hundreds of apparel brands including Inditex would have been done. In the future, Sueyoshi (Zara’s parent company), Fast Retailing (Uniqlo), would like to see corporations, governments and and H&M, but not Forever 21. While safety checks individuals taking greater responsibility when it have become more rigorous and greater transpar- comes to business ethics. ency is being shown as a result of the agreement, “One hundred people taking a step each is FROM TOP progress has been painfully slow. Earlier this year, The collapse of Rana Plaza factory in Dhaka; we more valuable than a hundred steps by one per- a Bangladesh factory that made clothes for H&M need to consider who’s making our clothes; the son,” she says. “We can’t just leave it up to NGOs experiment in Berlin that offered cheap T-shirts and JC Penny caught fire. Fortunately it occurred before showing potential customers a video of to solve the world’s problems; everyone has the shocking scenes from a textile factory before most of the workers had started their shifts. power to bring about change.”

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 25 Okinawa’s traditional pork breed, Agu, gets its ghostly nickname from the fact it’s so rare, and facing a real possibility of extinction. Casey Hawkins visits a private farm in Ginoza to learn more about efforts to regenerate the precious breed

ity, and breeders are having to come up with ways to meet an in- creasing demand from mainland Japan. Commercial farms con- tracted under the trademarked name Agu have had to modify traditional rearing practices, but this ends up diluting both the an- imal’s traits and welfare. Weekender was invited to a private farm in Ginoza, Okinawa, to learn about a small yet high- ly ambitious collective of farm folk aiming to regenerate the af- fordable purity and population of the original Okinawan heritage breed.

A PIG’S PARADISE Kaori and Mark Carr’s small organic farm is situated on the island’s east coast, away from he pig commonly known as Agu has had a rough trot the hordes of beachgoers. During our brief tour around what of late. Things first began to go wrong after World was once a cattle station, we attracted the intimate company of War II, when food shortages led to the importation goats, chickens, a horse and a scourge of mosquitos. Leading Tof live stock from surrounding countries. In order us finally to the entrance of an elongated pig run, the Carrs to feed the impoverished, most of the native pigs were cross- continued to work enthusiastically while eagerly answering bred with exotic species. In the end, all bar an estimated 30 our questions. Their energy is impressive, but even more so Agu were wiped from Okinawa’s sub-tropical landscape. after learning they sleep in a prefabricated shipping container At present, it’s difficult to determine how much of the na- along with an ever-growing pack of furry and feathered com- tive pig’s genealogy remains, and details regarding distribu- panions. How they manage to stay so bright-eyed is anyone’s tion of the surviving pigs remain hazy. As a result, the breed guess. has struggled to thrive more so than other Okinawan culinary Prior to adopting five piglets of her own, Kaori worked at specialties. Nevertheless, the Agu brand is gaining popular- Okinawa’s Livestock Research Center, as well as for a commer-

26 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER cial pork producer. Even with such extensive a profit. Chalking up the last four years as experience, she has spent the past four years vital research, they intend to carry on moni- ALL YOU NEED trialing new ways to provide her pigs with toring their pigs’ life cycle to develop practi- TO KNOW ABOUT AGU the best living conditions possible. The Carrs cal information for other breeders. claim that unlike pigs cramped in stalls with docked tails and teeth, theirs only endure one BRINGING HOME THE BACON stressful day – that day being their last. Ka- The largest commercial farm in Okinawa ori cooks a combination of oats, barley, rice slaughters up to 1,600 pigs at a time. By al- and vegetables on her stovetop each day to tering the pigs’ diet and limiting movement, feed the pigs morning and night. The pigs also the regulatory slaughter weight (90 to 120 regularly snack on almonds and hazelnuts to kg) can be achieved in nine months. In stark increase flavor and sweetness. contrast, the organically reared heritage The production of organic feed and medi- breed takes roughly double that. cine is time-consuming, not to mention cost- Among the handful of known heritage ly, and the Carrs recognize that most farm- breeders in Okinawa, most own fewer than ers lack the time and motivation required to five pigs. Usually, heritage breed farmers nurture pigs to this degree without turning have a personal interest in the breed, and it’s likely they already have a profitable ag- ricultural operation up and running. So far, the job has typically attracted farmers with- in roughly 10 years of retirement age. Mark points out that this is problematic because a lack of involvement among young people could lead to future decline in the heritage breed’s already suffering popu- lation. As the current farmers become less able-bodied, they’re more likely to discon- tinue hobby farming than maintaining prof-

THE BREED THE PIGS SNACK Its average litter is between five These Tokyo-based restaurants and seven pigs. Commonly, half of a claim to incorporate Agu pork into ON ALMONDS AND free-range litter will reach their dishes. However, due to the slaughter. On the other hand, HAZELNUTS TO premature death is more prevalent irregular supply, consider yourself INCREASE FLAVOR for those in close confinement and lucky if the real deal makes an proximity to other animals. appearance on the menu. Those AND SWEETNESS looking to try the heritage breed THE PORK best start befriending Okinawan Similarly to Wagyu beef, Agu pork’s farmers, for it’s likely that the fat has a lower melting temper- prime cuts will stay close to home. ature, which causes it to literally itable stock. The Carrs fear that while the melt in your mouth. Even with its heritage pig continues to incur costs, other higher fat percentage and sweet- KATSUZEN breeds consistently bringing home the ba- ened flavor, the meat’s cholesterol This Michelin-starred tonkatsu (pork con will only further increase the plight of level is more than halved while cutlet) restaurant sources pork from the phantom pig. having a high amount of amino free-range, low-stress farms, mainly acids, collagen and vitamin D. in Kyushu. THE WAY FORWARD 4F Kojun Bldg, 6-8-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku The Carrs are hoping to one day develop a THE FARMERS sizeable register of ethical farmers who can Collectively, the heritage breeders TAKETOMIJIMA work together to repopulate the heritage take less than half-a-dozen pigs Known for serving the traditional breed while retaining its most desirable to slaughter each year. It’s no Okinawan dish called rafute – bone- characteristics. They wish to educate locals wonder they’ve earned the name less pork belly stewed in soy sauce, as well as visitors about the significance and phantom pig – the largest farm in brown sugar, and awamori (rice wine). Nakijin cares for no more than rarity of the breed by inviting them to wit- B1F Daito Bldg, 6-12-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku 40 pigs at one time. The largest ness what they do and how they do it. commercial supplier and exclusive So passionate is the couple about or- PIATTO SUZUKI owner of the Agu brand contracts ganic farming that they’re willing to share An exclusive dining experience many small Okinawan farms to everything they’ve learnt, from using medic- focusing on Italian cuisine made help fulfill national supply and inal herbs to DIY enclosures. The pair want with ingredients from around Japan. demand. Farmers agree to produce little more than to inspire new and experi- They only cater for three parties per under specific conditions in evening, so bookings are essential. enced farmers to breed happy, healthy pigs. exchange for financial stability 4F Hasebeya Bldg, 1-7-7 Azabujuban, and guidance, similar to how Minato-ku To contact Kaori and Mark Carr, visit their franchises operate. website www.carr-pig-farm.com or their Face- book page Okinawa Organics.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 27 Words by Matthew Hernon

NOW PREPARING FOR THE 2016 PARALYMPICS, LONG JUMPER SAKI TAKAKUWA OPENS UP ABOUT OVERCOMING THE TRAGEDY OF LOSING A LIMB, AND WHAT SHE BELIEVES NEEDS TO CHANGE IN JAPAN BEFORE 2020

aki Takakuwa was training for a school which helped Tokyo’s successful bid for the 2020 Olympic athletics meet when she first felt a twinge in and Paralympic Games. Like Takakuwa, she lost part of her her leg. Tragically, what she initially thought leg due to osteosarcoma. was a simple strain turned out to be a tumor “It was inspiring to read such a positive story by below her left knee. Surgery followed, but the someone who’d gone through something similar to me,” Scondition showed no sign of improvement, and shortly Takakuwa says. “Her book made me realize there were after starting junior high school she was diagnosed with opportunities out there and that I didn’t necessarily have bone cancer (osteosarcoma). A few weeks later the lower to give up on sport. At a real dark time in my life, it gave part of her left leg was amputated. me encouragement, but that doesn’t mean I suddenly “It was a difficult time,” she says matter-of-factly. “I re- decided to become a Paralympian. At that point I wasn’t turned to school with a part of my body missing, mask on really thinking about my future at all. It was just about and hair falling out because of the chemotherapy. It must getting through each day.” have been a shocking sight for my classmates who chose The first challenge for Takakuwa was learning how to to deal with it by remaining silent. A teacher told my mum walk again with her new prosthetic leg. Then, in her second that it was their way of showing sensitivity. Of course I year at junior high school, she attempted to run 50 m in a could understand that, yet I felt so alone. It was really PE lesson. Despite a hesitant start, she managed to cross the hard not being able to convey my feelings to anyone.” finish line. “It was an exhilarating feeling to be back on the Takakuwa found some solace in Mami Sato’s book track,” she tells us. “At the same time, though, I was also a “Lucky Girl.” A long jumper who competed in three bit frustrated at not being able to run as fast as I did before Paralympics, Sato became a household name in Japan fol- all the surgeries.” lowing her “I’m here because I was saved by sport” speech, The Saitama Prefecture native started out with a pros- thetic used for daily life, but later switched to a J-shaped one preferred by athletes at the Paralympics. It proved tough early on from both a physical and psychological perspective, however, when she got used to the artificial limb her times improved rapidly. She trained every day at an athletics club with able-bodied runners, and in her second grade at high school she was selected for an Asian Para Youth event in Tokyo. At the age of 20, she qualified for her first Paralympics, representing Japan at the 2012 London Games in the 100 m and 200 m sprints as well as the long jump (all T44 classifications). “I felt lucky to be there,” she says. “Unfortunately I didn’t make the long jump final, but I did get through in the 100 m and 200 m, finishing seventh in both. The results

28 | MAYSEPTEMBER 2016 | 2016 TOKYO | WEEKENDERTOKYO WEEKENDER The long jump used to be the discipline she con- centrated on least, but recent form suggests this could be her best chance of a medal in Brazil. At major international events in Doha and London last year against the world’s top jumpers, PARALYMPICS she managed to finish third on both occasions THROUGH THE AGES and is getting closer to the five meter mark. were more than satisfying and the whole ex- Competing against able-bodied athletes To coincide with the first perience was amazing. Of course it was my at the Kawasaki Grand-Prix in May will post-war Olympics held in first Paralympics so I’ve nothing to compare have given her confidence a further boost. 1948 London, neurologist Dr. Ludwig Guttmann it to, but you could tell there was something As for the sprints, her form isn’t looking decided to organize a competition involving special about the event. I wanted to spend as good, which is a concern considering WWII veterans with spinal cord injuries at a as long as possible on the track so I could she believes that a personal best will be rehabilitation facility in Aylesbury, England. It properly take in the atmosphere.” required in both the 100 m and 200 m was called the 1948 International Wheelchair Widely regarded as the greatest to reach the finals. Games, though only Brits competed. Four years Paralympics to date, the London Games had “In Qatar I was knocked out at the later, the Netherlands joined the event. more participants, larger qualifying stages for audiences and wider media both sprints, which was The first official Paralympics – coverage than ever before. a real wake-up call,” only for athletes in wheelchairs, Focusing on sporting excel- she says. “It was at that 1960 but not open solely to war veterans – took place lence rather than competi- point that my coach and IT WAS A in Rome in 1960. An impressive 400 competitors tors’ disabilities, there was I both realized that the from 23 countries took part. As there were no a tidal wave of excitement DIFFICULT world had got faster and more than three athletes or teams per event, at the time and the hope is I needed to up my game. everyone was guaranteed a medal. that it’ll continue in Brazil TIME … I In London I finished sev- and Japan. Early indications enth in the 100 m with a RETURNED Those numbers increased to aren’t so positive, though. time of 14.22, whereas in 1,600 competitors from 40 Just a few weeks before the Rio I think I’ll need to go 1976 TO SCHOOL countries at the Toronto Games in 1976. For 2016 Paralympics, only under 13.5 just to reach the first time, amputees and visually impaired 12 percent of the tickets WITH A PART the final. My best time is athletes were allowed to compete. The maiden had been sold, and as a 13.69 so it’s going to be Winter Paralympics also took place that year result major budget cuts OF MY BODY tough. The quality of the in Ornskoldsvik, Sweden. were expected. Sales for MISSING field is constantly getting the Tokyo Games should better. As well as expe- From 1996, athletes with be much higher, yet Takaku- rienced champions such intellectual disabilities were wa believes much needs as Marie-Amélie Le Fur 2000 allowed to participate at the Paralympics. An IQ to be done in this country (France), you also have of less than 70 was required. Just two of Spain’s before the event arrives exciting youngsters like 12-man basketball squad at the 2000 Games here in 2020. Sophie Kamlish (UK) coming through. had genuine disabilities. The other 10 used fake “While progress is being made in Japan, I’m looking forward to competing against medical certificates. They beat China in the it’s happening at a very slow pace,” she says. them and I just hope I can reach my goal final, but were later stripped of their medals. “There are few tournaments here so we of improving on London.” Undercover journalist, Carlos Ribagorda, who have to go abroad to compete. For up-and- played in the team, claimed Spain had also coming athletes, it remains a real struggle faked disabilities in other sports. to get sponsorship. [Saki’s teammate Maya Nakanishi raised funds for the 2012 Games After receiving a suspension by publishing a semi-nude calendar.] As for the 2004 and 2008 Games, well as a lack of money, there’s a shortage 2012 competitions involving athletes with intellectual of venues and training centers. Another disabilities returned in 2012, albeit with issue is infrastructure. Many buildings greater scrutiny and sports intelligence tests in Tokyo aren’t well equipped for people determining eligibility. The London Paralympics with disabilities or tourists with suitcases. was the biggest ever with 4,302 athletes from 164 As I said, things are gradually improving countries. There were a total of 503 events in 20 and Japan has learnt from the London sports. Paralympics, which is positive. I just hope things can develop at a quicker pace over the next four years.” Takakuwa will be 28 then so should just be reaching her peak. The focus for now, though, is Rio and the three events she’ll once again be featuring in this month.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 29 KIMONO & YUKATA TREND REPORT ’16

Compiled by Dorothee Erle

In Japan, tradition never goes out of fashion. But that doesn’t mean it never gets reborn. Since the kimono’s straight-line shape was established in 794, the garment has continued to inspire style trends, and lately we’ve seen plenty of modern takes on the conventional cut. From rock chic to sophisticated and playful, contemporary kimono and yukata designs are full of personality. To help you pick out your favorite, we interviewed five innovative designers and showcased what they have on offer for 2016. Glam Punk TSUKIKAGEYA

Best for: Tsukikageya’s yukatas are for those who can’t bear to get lost in the crowd. Owner Natsuki Shigeta describes her customers as “fashion connois- seurs” – those who have their own style and enjoy combining high fashion, street and vintage brands.

The look: Exclusively white and navy blue yukata with contemporary and occasionally daring (and by daring we mean explicit) patterns. Contrasting color- ful obi and clutches, photo-printed or bejeweled with Swarovski crystals to give off a glam-rock vibe.

The latest: Shigeta says she wants to enhance the wearer’s mood with her designs, and her 2016 pieces are bound to do just that. This year’s hand-drawn, doodle-like patterns such as cats and kaomoji (Jap- anese emoticons) are screamingly cute. But paired with Tsukikageya’s punkish accessories, they trans- form into something sexier.

Where to shop: Tsukikageya store (1-9-19 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku), online at home.a07.itscom.net/kag- eya2/, or at the brand’s annual Laforet pop-up store. Follow at www.instagram.com/natsuki_shigeta

Price: Around ¥50,000 TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 31 Geometric Genius TAKAHASHI HIROKO

Best for: “Those who live by the values they’ve created for themselves,” says designer Takahashi Hiroko.

The look: All of Hiroko’s textile designs are based on “circles and lines,” although they are far from boring. ”I want to express the unlimited possibilities that can be explored within boundaries,” she says. “And I want to play around with the rigid traditional structure of the kimono.” Her range is timeless in that geometric shapes will never be démodé, but it holds surprises in the way of color choices and lining details.

The latest: Sweeping, detailed patterns in black, grey, purple and blue that never stray from Hiroko’s line-and-circle-principle yet offer enough variety that you’ll find it hard to choose.

Where to shop: At the Takahashi Hiroko Oshiage Studio: takahashihiroko.com/studio.

Price: ¥60,000-¥120,000

32 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Arty Inspiration SUPER SEVEN

Best for: Youthful trendsetters who want their artistic nature to shine through their Jackson Pollock-esque yukata design.

The look: Leaving traditional patterns behind, Super Seven creates a fashion statement with their multi-colored yukatas, which are ideal for the sea- son’s final few festivals.

The latest: Nana Watanabe, creative head of the brand, had the image of an aquarium and the vitality of fish and coral in mind while designing her latest pieces: “Like you dove right in there with your yukata and all those colors bled and splattered.” That ex- plains the 70s flashbacks we’re getting.

Where to shop: Online at superseven.thebase.in. Check the website for pop-up stores.

Price: ¥30,000

Photographer: Terukazu Sugino, hair & make-up: Nanae Nojiri, model Hikari

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 33 Edo Meets Rock RUMI ROCK

Best for: “Those for whom it is unthinkable to be caught in the same design as any- body else,” says designer Rumi Shibasaki.

The look: Rock ’n’ roll yukata with edgy patterns and eye-catching colors. Matching obi and shiny, two-colored heko obi (an informal obi made of soft cloth). Despite the modern look, Shibasaki maintains a strong focus on traditional production and therefore describes her designs as “Edo meets rock.”

The latest: This year sees Rumi Rock embracing whimsical, nature-inspired or history-inspired designs. At first glance, the bold patterns look like traditional motifs, but they include non-traditional images such as skulls, bats and even the Loch Ness Monster.

Where to shop: Online at shop.rumirock. com, where you’ll also find information on sales events.

Price: ¥30,000-¥50,000

34 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Runway Ready JOTARO SAITO

Best for: Men and women with a penchant for high-quality fabrics and sophisticated, investment pieces that they can enjoy for years to come.

The look: Elegant designs that translate the traditional kimono into a modern couture item. This is a luxury brand that can be seen annually at Tokyo Fashion Week, and could be called the Dolce & Gabbana of kimono fashion. All of this is stamped, of course, with the unique vision and voice of renowned designer Jotaro Saito.

The latest: Saito’s new collection, “Go Beyond,” is inspired by Japanese subculture,­ such as animation and games, as well as more traditional culture. The designer manages to merge the two in a chic range that brims with subtle color and theme contrasts.

Where to shop: Jotaro Saito store (Roppongi Hills, Roppongi Keyakizaka-dori,­ 6-9-­ 1­ Rop- pongi, Minato-ku),­ or at www.jotaro.net/shop.

Price: From ¥60,000

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 35 TRAVEL GUIDE: AKITA [ PROMOTION ] Forever Beloved

A character steeped in Japanese art and culture, the Akita bijin is recognized throughout the country as a national ideal for beauty. Join us in our continuing Akita series as we count the ways in which her far-reaching inspiration endures

sk most people in Japan what comes to their minds when they hear the word “Akita,” and the Akita bijin, or Akita beauty, is probably the first thing. In fact, she is so well known in Japanese culture that her “look” is almost a paragon of tra- Aditional Japanese female beauty. She has pale skin, a rosy flush to her cheeks, alluring eyes, and a long, straight nose. This image is so persistent that amateur anthropologists over the past generations have tried to find a relationship between the land and history of Akita and the “fairness” of its women. Some of the possible reasons include the prefecture’s fresh, clear water, the quality of Akita rice, and other natural influences. One Dr. Sugimoto, an Akita native, spent some time researching the matter and published his findings in a Bungei Shunju magazine article in 1966, where the good doctor argued that the women were blessed with a “beauty that was [in part] due to … short daylight hours and the remoteness from other prefectures due to the mountains.” A depiction of Ono no Komachi by Hosoda Eishi, painted between However, one interpretation, offered in an article 1793 and 1797, hangs on the Japanese language and culture site Tofugu at the Rijksmuseum in (and which could just be a beautiful legend), Amsterdam is that the features that we associate with the Akita bijin belonged to a single woman: the legendary poetess Ono no Komachi. She came to fame in Kyoto during the Heian period, and was renowned for her beauty, the sensitivity and complexity of her verses, and her many love affairs. As tradition goes – in Akita at least – Ono no Komachi was the daughter of a local lord from the area that would later be known as Akita. Of course, given her historical legacy, many different areas want to claim her as a “native daughter.” Nonetheless, we like the idea of a figure from the far-flung north making a hit in the capital city, so that’s where our hearts lie. You can see one of her poems below, which demonstrates a sensibility that would have de- lighted her lovers and perhaps driven her rivals in love – or in poetry – to fits of envy:

Was I lost in thoughts of love When I closed my eyes? He Appeared, and Had I known it for a dream I would not have awakened.

Ono no Komachi was celebrated for her beauty, SHE INSPIRED A NORTHERN the qualities of which also happen to match the GEISHA TRADITION Akita bijin “type”: white skin, those captivating Although they were not as well known as those eyes, and a long dainty nose. Could it be that this in Kyoto, Akita had a lively community of geisha legendary poet was the inspiration not only to her performers well into the 20th century. However, many lovers at court, but also for a standard of over the last several decades, the practice had beauty recognized throughout Japan? It’s lovely to died out, and with no senior teachers to pass on consider, at the very least. their knowledge, the Akita geisha were poised to fade into a historical footnote. IMMORTALIZED ON BOTH PAGE However, a young local entrepreneur, AND STAGE Chinatsu Mizuno, had other ideas. Hope- A celebrated beauty with a sensational love life ful that her efforts could help resuscitate is naturally the stuff of great theater, so it’s only this tradition and draw attention to Akita’s natural that there are several famous Noh plays unique cultural heritage, Mizuno spent a that dramatize her life, loves, and gift for verse. great deal of time investigating the history of One of them, “Sotoba Komachi,” was reworked the once-thriving pleasure quarter along the into a modern play by the great Japanese writer Asahi River in Akita City, where geisha enter- Yukio Mishima. tained both wealthy locals and travelers. With support from local governments BRANDS LOVE A BEAUTY and crowdfunding projects, she launched It’s fitting that the name “Komachi” has become a company called Sen, which is reviving the a shorthand way to refer to any great beauty. The geisha tradition by training maiko (apprentice name of this celebrated Akita bijin is now asso- geisha) how to dance in the classical style, per- ciated with a variety of different products, from form the traditional tea ceremony, and play the celebrated Akita Komachi rice variety to the musical instruments. They now perform at Shinkansen train line that heads north up into Ak- Matsushita, a former restaurant that has been ita – designed by famed industrial designer Ken transformed into a two-floor performance Okuyama, who set the look of a pair of Ferrari’s space/café/bar, as well as at hotels and other models in the 2000s. COULD IT BE THAT venues around the area. Of course, along with these products, the ideal Watching these Akita maiko engaged in embodied by the Akita bijin and other pale Japa- THIS LEGENDARY the beautiful practices of the past, it’s easy to nese beauties has also inspired countless lines of POET WAS THE recognize a gorgeous tradition that lives on skin whitening creams, long gloves, and massive in their graceful movement, clear voices, and sun visors meant to ensure that their wearers stay INSPIRATION FOR fair faces. It’s a beauty that dates back centu- fair, year round. A STANDARD ries, and only continues to improve with age.

SHE’S BIG ON THE FESTIVAL OF BEAUTY Matsushita offers two floors: a café on the first SCENE RECOGNIZED floor and second floor bar featuring sake from all On the second Sunday of June, in the city of Yuza- of the breweries in Akita. It’s also a perfect place wa, a festival is held to honor Ono no Komachi. To THROUGHOUT to see the maiko perform. To find out more about mark the occasion, seven young women dressed JAPAN? the Akita maiko revival, and for other opportuni- in kimono and ichime-gasa – wide-brimmed hats ties to catch a glimpse of these local beauties, with nearly floor-length veils – each recite one of visit bit.ly/TWAkitaMaiko the celebrated poet’s verses.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 37 TRAVEL GUIDE: AKITA [ PROMOTION ] Au Naturale Home to streams and rivers of an almost unearthly blue that reflects the mountainous landscape on clear days, the Dakigaeri Valley is truly one of the natural beauties of Akita, and very close to the onsens of Nyuto

EMBRACEABLE VIEW Students of Japanese might find a bit of a mystery lurking in the name of this lovely landscape: Dakigaeri (抱返 り) contains the kanji for “embrace” (抱) and “return” (返). As one story goes, the old mountain road that wove its way through the area was so narrow and treacherous that people going either way would have needed to embrace in order to make their way around each other. Fortunately, in this day and age, visitors can look forward to a well-built promenade that is wide enough to allow more than a few people to make their way up side by side – only embracing should they feel inspired to do so by the spectacular scenery. Walking their way up towards the valley ridge, they’ll be able to gaze on the Obonai Forest, which is replete itself or looking up at the landscape with Akita cedar and a variety of other with the crimson lines of the Kami trees that turn into a colorful show by Iwahashi crossing the scene – par- the time autumn comes around. ticularly striking against a clear blue VISITORS WILL sky – they will be treated to a vista BEAUTY IN SUSPENSION that they won’t soon forget. The star Continuing along the promenade, BE TREATED TO of all of the views, of course, are visitors to the area will come across a LOVELY FARE FOR the jewel-like waters of the streams red span that brings distinctive lines A VISTA THAT THE CHANGING that make their way through the of color to the area. Built in 1926, the THEY WON’T valley – they get their particularly SEASONS Kami Iwahashi is the oldest suspen- lustrous hues from the light that sion bridge in the prefecture, and By the time the leaves SOON FORGET passes through the shallow water adds an aesthetic man-made touch to begin to turn and the and reflects off the white rock of the the natural surroundings. Whether temperatures start to stream beds. drop, another natural visitors are standing on the bridge turn of events begins to MISTS OF INCENSE happen: people start to After passing by the Kami Iwahashi, get hungry after the long, walkers will come across another of energy-draining summer. the area’s celebrated spots: an area There’s actually a phrase called Seiganji. This part of the river for it: shokuyoku no aki (the valley is laden with the mists kicked appetite that comes with up from the fast-moving flow as it autumn). For visitors to drops into a waterfall. Recognizing the area around Dakigaeri a similarity between the river’s mist Valley, one way to satisfy and the clouds of incense that one this hunger is by digging might find at the altar of a Bud- into a hearty serving of dhist temple, locals gave the place yama no imo nabe, the a temple’s name. Continuing along, Semboku version of Japan’s the waterfall can be seen from ubiquitous hotpot. The several different perspectives, each starring ingredient of this one more impressive than the next. local dish is Japanese yam, More adventurous explorers can which imparts a unique make their way through a tunnel flavor to this meal that is a that affords an even more impres- perfect complement to the sive view of the waterfall at the cooling weather. other end.

38 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER TRAVEL GUIDE: AKITA [ PROMOTION ]

Bathing Beauties The ryokan of Nyuto Onsen Village offer seven sublime ways to savor the hot spring experience

kita’s mineral-rich water is said to be one of small collection of onsen huts; and Kyukamura, the reasons that the women of the prefec- the most modern of the Village’s inns. The var- ture are renowned for their attractiveness: ious ryokan in the Village also feature different Aand what better way to enjoy this natural mineral water varieties, each with their own beauty secret than the soothing steam of an onsen? The distinct color, and reputed health benefits. entire area is known for its plentiful hot springs, but All of these hot spring inns offer the perhaps one of the most pleasant places to soak it up is chance to appreciate Akita’s rustic hospitality Nyuto Onsen Village, just northeast of Lake Tazawa in and hearty cuisine, for a long weekend or Akita’s Semboku City. taking the time to truly savor the onsen experi- The village includes seven different ryokan: ence over an even longer break. Traditionally, Tsurunoyu, which has been in operation for more than fishermen and farmers would spend their off 300 years; Kuroyu, where you can sample boiled eggs seasons at the onsens to heal up for the work to whose shells have turned black in the area’s sulphurous come. This practice was known as toji – waters; Taenoyu, with its “infinity pool” rotemburo; Gan- literally, “hot spring cure,” and some of the You might not be able to iba, whose outdoor baths offer stunning and secluded Village’s ryokan still offer this opportunity. stay at each of Nyuto Onsen views; Ogama, a former schoolhouse with easy access to However long your stay, the natural Village’s seven ryokan, but you hiking trails and ski slopes; Magoroku, which features a surroundings of the Nyuto Onsen Village make can still experience the unique for the ultimate onsen experience: sitting in a pleasures of each location’s rotemburo (outdoor bath) while you gaze out hot spring baths. Nyuto Onsen at the mountainous scenery. This might mean Village offers a ¥1,800 pass looking out at the freshly sprouted, or thickly that allows holders to visit all lush, greenery of spring and summer, admiring seven onsens during their stay. autumn’s fall foliage, or savoring the magical A charmingly decorated bus experience of looking out over a snow-draped transports guests as they make landscape from the warmth of a steaming hot their way from one steamingly spring bath. When weather permits, guests can comfortable bath to the next. put on their yukata and stroll on paths through forests of buna – Japanese beech. Beauty and health trends come and go, To soak up more information but the experience that can be savored at the about Nyuto Onsen Village, Nyuto Onsen Village is timeless, traditional, visit www.nyuto-onsenkyo.com and unforgettable.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 39 Door to Door Pickup Service 24 Hour Staff Supervision One daycare visit available Open 365 Days No Cages

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40 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER ©Kittozutto

BE INSPIRED September is when things slowly start to change in Tokyo. Let us be your guide to the art world – where you can stroll alongside naked visitors to one of Tokyo’s major museums and see dozens of wonders from the plant kingdom – and to what’s on around town: everything from nights of fashion to a celebration of spicy cuisine.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 41 “Kishin Shinoyama, La maison de rende-vous,” 2016 ©Kishin Shinoyama 2016 ART & BOOKS

KISHIN SHINOYAMA – “LA MAISON DES RENDEZ-VOUS”

Ever been to a museum where all of the photographs on display were taken at the museum where they were being exhibited – and all of the people in the pictures are naked? We’re betting that you haven’t, and neither have we. Shinoyama, a photographer who has been practicing his craft for more than 50 years, uses a collection of 60 photographs to draw viewers into a fantasy world that turns the Hara Museum into “a riotous party, a one-time affair lasting a little more than four months.”Hara Museum of Contemporary Art Until January 9, 2017 www.haramuseum.or.jp THE ART WORLD OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS Compiled by Alec Jordan

MASKS

Today, you only need to look as far as Snapchat to recognize the ease – and appeal – of putting on a disguise, but mask-wearing goes back thousands of years and can be found in almost every culture around the world. This exhibition asks the question – “what do masks mean in the 21st century?” – and displays the multimedia respons- es of 26 underground artists from seven different Asian countries. The exhibition is curated by the Singapore- an art collective Kult, which has been promoting contemporary art and art- ists around Asia for nearly a decade. Diesel Art Gallery Until November 11 www.diesel.co.jp/art/en/masks

Left: © BüRO UFHO / Right: © Mojoko

42 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER TSUCHIYA Yoshimasa, Phoenix, 2016, Collection of the artist, Photo: TAKENOUCHI Hiroyuki

BOOKS

DIALOGUE WITH TREES – FIVE STORIES OF REBIRTH AND RENEWAL

Five contemporary Japanese artists who work with wood are the focus of the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum’s 90th anniversary exhibit. Collectively, these artists chal- lenge the conventions of what is possible with this living medium – works on display run from massive installations to smaller, more intimate pieces, all of which explore themes of birth, death, and the endless cycles that motivate everything that happens in between. Held five years after the tragic events of 3/11, the exhibit also features poignant images of regrowth in the wake of destruction. Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum Until October 2 www.tobikan.jp/en It’s not often you meet a teenager who has written and illustrated a book based on her travels. Christine Mari Inzer, whose father is American and mother is Japanese, was just 15 when she traveled solo from America to Tokyo to “get in touch with her roots.” While here, she created “Diary of a Tokyo Teen,” which is brimming with humorous insight into Japanese culture. Originally self-published, the book has since been picked up by Tuttle Publishing, and will be available in Japan from September 28. We asked Inzer, now 19, a couple of questions about the book.

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE PART OF THE JOURNEY? My favorite part of the holiday in Japan was the trip I made to Kyoto with my grandmother, Baba. But one of my favorite parts of making the book has to be the pages about Japanese fashion. I’ve always admired how Japanese fashion is more focused on expressing oneself as opposed to following trends.

WHAT HAS SURPRISED YOU ABOUT THE EXPERIENCE OF PUB- ULTRA PLANTS EXHIBIT 2016 – SEIJUN NISHIHATA’S LISHING YOUR BOOK? ENCHANTING PLANT LIFE It started out as a personal project, so it never crossed my mind that this was going to be Nishihata, a fifth generation flower and plant supplier, has traveled around the read around the world. I think this mind- world and collected thousands of plants. They’re on display at this fascinating ex- set allowed me to create something deeply hibit, which features the bizarre flora placed in custom made ceramic vessels that personal. However, a lot of readers are finding are often as impressive as the plants they contain. It’s a pleasant way to see some that the book reminds them of their own expe- green amidst the urban jungle, and some of the items are for sale, so if you’re riences in Japan or of traveling in general, and on the lookout for an eye-catching balcony plant or a table centerpiece, this just that makes me very happy. might be your place. Pola Museum Annex Until September 25 www.po-holdings.co.jp/m-annex

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN SEPTEMBER

1 SEP 1-19 2 SEP 10 3 SEP 16-19, 22-25 4 SEP 10-11 GEKIKARA VOGUE FASHION MOËT MIDPARK ARABIAN FESTIVAL GOURMET FESTIVAL NIGHT OUT CINEMA Enjoy the beauty of the Try the hottest food from Hundreds of stores are Sip on a glass of Moët Middle East during the around the world. The festival is pre- participating in this year’s event. while enjoying a movie on Tokyo Arabian Festival held in Yoyogi Park. sented in three rounds, each including Look out for charity goods and get Midtown’s open-air lawn. Arrive early Held in Japan for the first time this year, a different selection of meals. an original badge from the Vogue to catch a seat, as space is limited to this festival aims to introduce Arabian Where: Okubo Park booth to support earthquake relief. 100 people. culture from Egypt to Morocco. How much: Free Where: Around Omotesando Where: Tokyo Midtown Where: Yoyogi Park More info: gekikara-gourmet.com How much: Free How much: Free How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: arafes.jp

5 SEP 17 6 SEP 15-17 7 SEP 1-30 8 SEP 16-19 NIHON BUYOH QUILT & STITCH EDO GOLDFISH TOKYO ART BOOK FAIR This is a rare opportunity to SHOW 2016 WONDERLAND Over 300 exhibitors will see Keika Wakayagi, one of A great chance for all Sumida Aquarium turns be selling independent the best-known modern practitioners crafty types to get their hands on into an “Edo-quarium” featuring 31 published books, zines and prints of the classical and theatrical both supplies and finished pieces. tanks of beautiful goldfish, Edo-style during this four-day event, which Japanese dance, Nihon Buyoh, Quilt & Stitch also offers exhibits, windchimes, fish-shaped lanterns, also includes special talks, workshops perform on the prestigious stage demonstrations and lectures. Apply and goldfish-themed cocktails and and exhibitions. of the National Theatre of Japan. in advance for workshops. desserts. Where: Tohoku University of Art and Where: National Theatre of Japan Where: Tokyo Big Sight Where: Sumida Aquarium Design Gaien Campus How much: ¥7,000 How much: ¥500-¥1,600 How much: ¥600-¥2,500 How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

44 | AUGUSTSEPTEMBER 2016 2016 | TOKYO | TOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER © Moyoco Anno / Cork

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9 SEP 11 10 SEP 12-OCT 1 DOODU BOY KAWAII WORLD OF Hilarious and heartbreaking, LADYBEARD this one-man play is written Naoko Tachibana has and performed by Stefhen Bryan, captured the unique style of Australian who tells his story about growing up pro wrestler, presenter, metal singer in the Jamaican ghetto, escaping to and former front man of pop idol group America, and his rebirth in Japan. Ladybaby in her striking photographs. Where: Noutan Art Space Where: Vanilla Gallery How much: ¥3,000 How much: ¥500 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

11 SEP 1-26 12 SEP 1-30 MOYOCO ANNO: MATCHA STRIP! BEER GARDEN A retrospective of the Leave it to Japan to combine career of manga artist and writer green tea with beer and make it the Moyoco Anno who is best-known for drink of the summer. Enjoy the all- titles such as “Sugar Sugar Rune” and you-can-drink course from 5:30pm to “Happy Mania.” Many of her works 11pm, even if just for the social media have been adapted into anime. brownie points. Where: Parco Museum Where: Green Tea Restaurant How much: ¥500 How much: ¥3,800 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

TOKYO WEEKENDERTOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER | AUGUST 2016 |2016 45 | 45 People, Parties, Places TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY

t’s been a long time since I saw my first Broadway musical. It was Showbiz luminaries Harvey Fierstein, Jerry Mitchell and Cyndi at the Hollywood Bowl where one of many aunts took me to see Lauper, along with the international cast of the award-winning mu- “Finian’s Rainbow.” The star Ella Logan was fantastic, and the sical “Kinky Boots” will be here to perform the popular show from Ishow was great. I really got hooked on musicals that night and October 5 to 30 at Theatre Orb. I got to know Cyndi – a nice, talent- have had the opportunity to see just about every hit musical there’s ed and fun lady – several years ago when, along with local superstar been over the years. Steven Haynes, we were able to find ten international and Japanese When I was pretty much running The Lex Disco in Roppongi for 32 transvestites to back her up when she sang her big hit “Girls Just Want years, I was able to host a lot of parties for the casts of most of the shows to Have Fun” on a Japanese TV station’s big New Year show. That, my and got to know a lot of great Broadway stars. Talk about talent and friends, was a real experience. energy. Sadly, the Broadway shows coming to Japan slowed down for a “Rent,” another award-winning Broadway show, will celebrate its while, but I’m happy to see that with 20th anniversary tour in Japan from all the new venues opening, there December 15 through 31 at the In- seem to be more and more shows ternational Forum. Ticket prices for coming in all the time. most of the shows are about the same Thanks to friends at Udo Art- prices you’d pay on Broadway or at ists, I recently saw one of my all- London’s West End. time favorites, Sarah Brightman, at In addition to all this, there’s the International Forum. Her guest theater, kabuki, noh, classical con- performers, the orchestra, the sets, certs, pop concerts, and local produc- lighting and her performance (a tions of Japanese, and foreign plays voice from heaven!) all added up to and musicals. I’m well aware how an evening of magnificent entertain- lucky I am to be able to see and do so ment. The highlight of the program much, but still find it difficult toun- was her duet with Italian tenor Mario derstand when friends tell me there’s Frangoulis singing “Phantom of the nothing to do in Tokyo. I just read that Opera,” which truly deserved the full because of construction and prepa- house’s long and loud standing ova- ration for the Olympics, the city has tion that it received. loosened up on regulation and many It was a different beat on August parks are now allowing more and 23 when I went to watch “Delicious more flea markets, festivals, and oth- Musical Bibap.” The Korean show er events, especially on holidays and has been running for several years weekends. This is especially true in in Seoul and is still going strong. Soka Yoyogi Park where I recently went to Gakkai’s Min-On Concert Association a great Nepal/Asia Festival one week, brought the show here in late August. and a really fun all-Japan breakdanc- I’ll have photos of the cast later. ing performance the next. Hibiya There’s quite a full schedule of Park also had the huge Philippine events for the rest of the year. These Festival recently. The food is good and include “Musical Songs and Pop Ga- cheap, and the entertainment is good lore!” This will star Hungarian actor/ and free – check them out. singer Mate Kamaras who has many Still on Tokyo, our sincerest con- Bill and the fabulous Cyndi Lauper fans here, and several other popular gratulations to one of the best cities artists. Show dates are September 13, in the world’s new governor, Yuriko 14 and 15 at Sogetsu Kaikan. From Koike. Thanks to writing this column September 14 through 25, there’s a musical with an international cast for so many years, I’ve gotten to know this exceptional lady quite well. titled “Sleeping Beauty in the Forest” at the Theatre Orb, and if you like She’s super intelligent, very international, chic, and honest. Her back- flamenco, Antonio Gades – one of the best – will bring his company to ground includes attending a university in Egypt where she learned flu- Bunkamura on September 17, 18 and 19. There will be a different pro- ent Arabic, traveling all over the world, and amassing a great deal of gram each night: “Carmen,” “Bodas de Sangre,” and “Suite Flamenco.” knowledge and leadership experience, including a brief stint as Japan’s Other happenings include a cinema music concert featuring an inter- first female Minister of Defense. In talking to her at parties, I’ve always national cast at Theatre Orb on September 9, 10 and 11, and a group found her very knowledgeable, and very easy to talk to. I certainly feel of local talent in Tokyo International Players’ production of “Macbeth” her many supporters made a wise decision and wish her a long, happy from October 13 to 16 at Theater Sun Mall in Shinjuku. and successful term as our new mayor.

46 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER ANDAZ HOTEL – SAYONARA ARNAUD, WELCOME ROSS 1. Coca Cola’s Japan Pres. Tim Brett and his wife Sa- rah, Andaz’s food/beverage director Alistair Minty 2. Yuko Tadano, Mori Art Museum Pres. Yoshiko Mori, Hyatt Hotels Japan senior advisor Chika Koga 3. New Andaz Tokyo GM Ross Cooper, Clara Bodin, Hyatt Group’s GM – UK and Ireland – Arnaud de Saint-Exupery 4. Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s GM Steve Dewire, his wife Barbara 5. Park Hyatt GM Herve Mazella, F.J.’s Sebastian Lemoine, Nicola Sitson, LVMH Pres. Emmanuel Prat

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8 10 ITALIAN NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION 9 6. Emile and Sharon Yamano, their daughter Nina, Buddhist monk Shimoyama-san 7. Top caterer Gior- gio Matera and chef Stefano Fastro 8. Italian Amb. Domenico Giorgi, Ger- man Amb. Hans Carl von Werthern (r) and his wife Elizabeth (center) 9. Fiat Pres. Japan Tiziana Alamprese and friend 10. Italian Defense Attache Colonel Enzo Gasparini Casari, noted film director Masato Harada (r) and 11 12 his wife, Mizuho Fukuda (center) 11. Polish Amb. Cyryl Kozaczewski, Kumiko Meric (Turkey) Paul Noritaka Tange, Kyoko Spector 12. GAGA Communications’ Tom Yoda and Domenico Giorgi

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 47 SAYING FAREWELL TO THE LOPEZES 1. Lilo Maruyama, Mary Katayama, Reiko Szerdahelyi (Hungary), the hostess of the reception, Maria Teresa Lopez, Cristina Escala (Peru), Ayama Diaz (Panama), 2 Kyoko Spector 2. Philippines minister Angelica Escalona, Chamaine Torees (Labor Asst) 3. Iceland Amb. Hannes – Heimisson, Slovenia Amb. Simona Leskova, Chief of protocol Amb. Kaoru Shimazaki, Pakistan Amb. Farukh Amil 4. Carmen Clark, Roberta Ireton, Charo and Bill Ireton 5. Ceremony Pres. Tsukasa Shiga, Russian Amb. Evgeny Afanasiev, Kyoko Spector, Olga Afanasiev (Russia), Lilo Maruyama 6. Edo Wonderland’s Planning Michael No and CEO/ Pres. Ryoichi Yuki, Bill Ireton, Shiga

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MIN-ON’S BAYANIHAN DANCE EVENT 7. New Thai Amb. (r) and Mrs. Bansarn Bunnag (l), H.I.H Princess Takamado 8. Maria Teresa Lopez, H.I.H. Princess Takamado, new Myanmar Amb. and Mrs. U. ThurainYhant Zin 9. Philippines Amb. Manuel Lopez, Princess Takamado, Maria Teresa, Min-On Pres. Hiroyasu Kobayashi, Bayanihan dance group members 10. Peruvian Amb. Elard Escala, his wife Cristina, Reiko Szerdahelyi (now posted in Singapore)

48 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Fastest man in the world Usain Bolt, Bill, and former Jamaican Ambassador Claudia Barnes

THE GIORGIS’ AWESOME CELEBRATION Our Italian friends, Ambassador Domenico Giorgi and his wife Rita, have one of the most beautiful residences and gardens in Tokyo. As al- ways, they made the Italian National Day reception – which they host at their home – an awesome evening in every way, and it was really nice seeing so many good friends again. I especially enjoyed chatting with architect Paul Noritaka Tange (the son of the late great architect Kenzo Tange), as well as with one of Japan’s top film directors Masato Harada and his wife Mizuho Fukuda. It was nice seeing Giorgio Matera, one of Italy’s top caterers who’s based in Japan, and who did the catering for the celebration. Tokyo has a huge variety of top Italian restaurants and he had a dozen or so chefs from what he, the ambassador, and Rita con- sider the city’s best restaurants prepare their most popular dishes. The buffets on offer in both the dining room and the white tents in the gar- den were excellent, and the ambiance of the special evening couldn’t have been better. The evening’s music, performed by a quartet from the Sendai Junior Orchestra was perfect for the occasion.

THE LOPEZES’ NATIONAL DAY AT IMPERIAL Manuel Lopez, the former Ambassador of the Philippines to Japan, finished the two years that he promised his friend President Aquino he would serve here. He’s one of his country’s top businessmen – he who had been at the Andaz since its opening two years ago and was owns real estate, a TV station, a big publishing company, and more. Ma- promoted to area VP for the Hyatt Group in the UK and Ireland. Hotel nuel and his dynamic wife Maria Teresa did so many things to further top execs – like diplomats – seem to move around a lot. The beautiful Japan-Philippines relations in the all-too-short time they were here. evening event was also to welcome back long-time friend Ross Cooper, They made so many friends from all walks of life for both their won- whom I first got to know when he was the executive assistant food and derful country and themselves, so they really had a full schedule of beverage manager at one of everyone’s favorite hotels, the Grand Hyatt special events before they left Japan. These included a Min-On concert in Tokyo. After that he was transferred to the Grand Hyatt in Shenzhen, performance by the Filipino Bayanihan National Folk Dance Company China, was there until 2014, and then took over as GM at the Hyatt in and after party where HIH Princess Takamado was a special guest, a Busan, Korea, before returning to Tokyo. big colorful Filipino festival at Hibiya Park and the 118th Independence The venue that evening was the rooftop terrace, bar and studio – all Day of the Philippines, and the celebration of the 60th anniversary of on the 52nd floor. Hyatt Hotels always go all out to make all of their diplomatic relations with Japan at the Imperial Hotel, as well as many functions special, and the evening event with a lot of open space and sayonara breakfasts, lunches, and dinners hosted by Japanese friends panoramic views was all that and more. The buffet was excellent with and other diplomats. a big selection of beautifully prepared and presented international fa- The national day party at the Imperial was first class all the way. vorites. The many guests included familiar faces from the arts, fashion, It was wall to wall people there to say sayonara, thank the Lopezes for and music worlds, as well as both Japanese and international business their friendship, and wish them all the best back home. The Philippine leaders. These included Yoshiko Mori, who’s chairperson of the Mori Art Festival at Hibiya Park was packed with well-wishers as well. It was a Museum, Prime Minister Abe’s mother, LVMH Japan president Emma- lively, colorful, event-packed two days with beauty contests, folk dance nuel Prat, Dewi Sukarno, and Hyatt’s senior advisor Chika Koga, Park competitions, a variety of entertainment from many of the Philippines’ Hyatt’s relatively new GM Herve Mazella, and the Grand Hyatt’s Steve top entertainers, as well as Japanese drum groups. Congratulations Dewire and his wife Barbara. It was also nice meeting Coca-Cola Japan’s to Ambassador and Mrs. Lopez, and our many Filipino friends who new president Tim Brett and his wife Sarah. Coke’s beautiful new build- worked so hard to make it the huge success that it was. ing in Shibuya will be opening soon. Our congratulations. And in closing, congratulations to the city of Rio, the country of Bra- SAYONARA ARNAUD, WELCOME ROSS – ANDAZ zil, and the International Olympic Committee for their brilliant work TOKYO HOTEL putting on the 2016 Olympics. A special kudos to all the competitors It was an awesome evening in every way at the Hyatt Group’s and medalists, including the speedy Usain Bolt, who was kind beautiful Andaz Tokyo Hotel in Toranomon. The occasion enough to stay still and have his picture taken with me and was a sayonara for the hotel’s GM, Arnaud de Saint-Exupery, former Jamaican Ambassador Claudia Barnes.

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Bill Ireton, top British DJ Guy Perryman, Tsukasa Shiga, Natsuo Yamaguchi, head of the Konishiki and ukulele whiz Tomoki Sato at Oakwood Thomas Ireton Komeito party

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 49 BACK IN THE DAY: 1970 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1970! You can read the rest of this issue (No.32 1970) and view Weekender’s 46-year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/ Join the Conversation, Join the Club

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