SEPTEMBER 2016 Japan’s number one English language magazine Five style-defining brands that are reinventing tradition SEXISM IN THE CITY Will men and women ever be equal in Japan’s workforce? “WE’RE SIMPLY BUYING TOO MUCH” Change the way you shop PLUS: The Plight of the Phantom Pig, Healthy Ice Cream, The Beauties of Akita, Q&A with Paralympics Athlete Saki Takakuwa 36 20 24 30 SEPTEMBER 2016 radar in-depth guide THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS COFFEE-BREAK READS CULTURE ROUNDUP 8 AREA GUIDE: SENDAGAYA 19 SEXISM IN THE CITY 41 THE ART WORLD Where to eat, drink, shop, relax, and climb Will men and women ever be equal This month’s must-see exhibitions, including a miniature Mt. Fuji in Japan’s workforce? a “Dialogue with Trees,” and “a riotous party” at the Hara Museum. 10 STYLE 24 “WE’RE SIMPLY BUYING TOO MUCH” Bridge the gap between summer and fall Rika Sueyoshi explains why it’s essential 43 BOOKS with transitional pieces including one very that we start to change the way we shop See Tokyo through the eyes – and beautiful on-trend wrap skirt illustrations – of a teenager 26 THE PLIGHT OF THE PHANTOM PIG 12 BEAUTY Meet the couple fighting to save Okinawa’s 44 AGENDA We round up the season’s latest nail colors, rare and precious Agu breed Take in some theatrical Japanese dance, eat all featuring a little shimmer for a touch of the hottest food, and enter an “Edo-quarium” glittery glamor 28 GREAT LEAPS We chat with long jumper Saki Takakuwa 46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES 14 TRENDS as she prepares for the 2016 Paralympics Hanging out with Cyndi Lauper, Usain Bolt, If you can’t live without ice cream but you’re and other luminaries trying to eat healthier, then you’ll love these 30 COVER FEATURE: YUKATA & KIMONO vegan and fruity options. Plus, the most TREND REPORT 2016 50 BACK IN THE DAY delicious kakigori ever Five brands that are reinventing tradition Digging into 46 years of Weekender archives TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 3 SEPTEMBER 2016 Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd. President Takanobu Ushiyama Executive Producers Asi Rinestine Naoya Takahashi Editor in Chief Annemarie Luck Senior Editor Alec Jordan Art Director Liam Ramshaw Features Writer Matthew Hernon Contributors Vivian Morelli Luca Eandi Bill Hersey Dorothee Erle Kyoko Yukioka Sales Director Takaaki Murai Sales Executives Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Mary Rudow Yu Suzuki Media Strategist Mandy Lynn Media Relations Junko Shimaya Media Producers Yumi Idomoto Claudia Sun EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 Published monthly at JPR Sendagaya Building 8F 4-23-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0051 (03) 6863-3096 / (03) 5413-3050 (fax) [email protected] To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: [email protected] For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: [email protected] 広告に関するお問い合わせ先 電話：(03)6863-3096 メール：[email protected] Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 4 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER @mizrama: Alec, here’s a question: if your wife had @mizrama: A lot of the women I interviewed felt asked you to take her name when you got married, that while a door has been opened, Japan still has a how would you have felt about doing that? long way to go. Kaori Sasaki, for one, described this as the beginning of Japan’s era of diversity, although @bapawn: Hmm ... that is a tricky one, particularly she noted that it took a man in power – Prime from the cross-cultural point of view. My wife hasn’t Minister Abe – to instigate the kind of change she’s changed her name to mine, and if she were to have been campaigning for over the last three decades. asked, I would probably have gone with a hyphenated Nevertheless, Japan is lucky to have inspirational name – if things like that were even allowed in Japan. women like her. @mizrama: I think that’s a good middle ground. @bapawn: And I’d say that we have a fair number I read an article last night that asked a number of of influential women in this month’s issue. You have men how they felt about this, and I was shocked by Hiroko Takahashi, who’s setting trends with her how many of the answers fed straight into gender modern kimonos [on the cover], Paralympian Saki stereotypes. It made me realize, yet again, how far we Takakuwa [page 28], Akita’s legendary poet Ono no are from closing the gender gap. Komachi [page 36], and Rika Sueyoshi, who is making a big push in the world of ethical consumerism [page 24]. @bapawn: Well, that’s a question that gets right to the heart of gender politics. I’d like to think that the @mizrama: Speaking of ethical consumerism ... you’re US is getting better; from what I’ve seen – with rare from California ... so how come I don’t ever see you exceptions – Japan particularly has a way to go. What sporting a hemp tie? did you find as you were working on your article about the gender gap in the working world here [page 20]? @bapawn: Hey, I thought we were trying to stand up AGAINST stereotypical imagery! 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As the seasons shift, we’ve rounded up a few things to help ease the transition: healthy ice cream for when September’s temperatures still soar; the best of Sendagaya for an afternoon stroll; and a must-have suede jacket that’ll see you through to winter. 8 AREA GUIDE 10 STYLE 14 TRENDS TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2016 | 7 AREA GUIDE HOLY GHOSTS Sendagaya has been around for centuries, so it’s no surprise that it’s home to several historic temples and shrines. Hato No Mori Hachiman Shrine is one of the last shrines that still contains a fujizuka mound, a miniature Mt. Fuji built out of rocks from the real mountain. It was constructed as a stand-in for people who couldn’t make the pilgrimage but still wanted to pay respect to the Fuji Sengen deity. Nearby, Senjuin Temple is sur- rounded by a large cemetery. Built in the 60s, Sendagaya Tunnel passes under- neath the cemetery and, as a result, taxi drivers tell tales of seeing apparitions and supernatural happenings while driving through the tunnel late at night. SENDAGAYA BEING SURROUNDED BY SHINJUKU, YOYOGI AND HARAJUKU HASN’T GIVEN SENDAGAYADYNAMIC AN NEIGHBORHOOD INFERIORITY COMPLEX STANDS – ONTHIS ITS UNASSUMING OWN YET Words and photographs by Luca Eandi A NIGHT OUT Noh, a form of classical Japanese musical drama, is alive and well in Sendagaya, thanks in large part to the National Noh Theatre, an ideal setting to catch a performance. Many Noh theater groups and organizations are also based in the neighborhood, and actors can often be seen in costume, practicing their craft in the open theater within Hato No Mori Hachiman Shrine. If 14th century plays don’t fit your idea of a fun night out, then perhaps you can catch some more contemporary music at Bonobo Bar, a welcoming neighborhood institution that’s equal parts cocktail bar, restaurant, nightclub and art gallery. The atmosphere is relaxed and the clientele is mostly local. 8 | SEPTEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER PARKS & RECREATION Of course, Sendagaya wouldn’t be a complete neighborhood without its share of outdoor recreational parks. Luckily, the neighborhood is basically surrounded by greenery. Shinjuku Gyoen, one of the premiere spots in Tokyo for viewing cherry blossoms during hanami season, is to the north. And one of the most visited spots in Yoyogi Park, Meiji Shrine Gyoen, lies just west of Sendagaya. Meiji Jingu Gaien is to the east, boasting several sport venues, including an ice skating rink and Japan National Stadium. One of the most iconic structures of Sendagaya, Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium, is also nearby, edged by a large plaza where you can get a nice sunset view of the Empire State-like NTT Docomo building and the Shinjuku skyline. THREE SQUARE MEALS Given that Sendagaya is as much a commer- cial area as it is residential, there are plenty of places to grab a bite to eat at any time of day. Good Morning Cafe, near Senda- gaya Station, offers eggs, French toast, and even healthy açai/yogurt/granola bowls for breakfast. For a quick lunch, Bird & Ruby has good espresso and pressed sandwiches. Next door, Monmouth is a stand specializing in tea, quiche and pie. For something more substantial, Hopuken is a three-story haven of fatty pork ramen sure to fill your savory needs. Snack time calls for an organic David Otto Juice or Kippy’s Coco-Cream’s [full review on page 14] coconut-based ice cream sweetened with raw local honey. For a hearty karē dinner, there’s Curry Bar Hendrix or Mokubaza. And for pun-tastic Vietnamese, Pho321 serves delicious pho noodles and bahn mi sandwiches.