Politics: Vetevendosje plays kingmaker – with conditions. PAGE 4

July 18-August 28, 2014 l #139 l Price 1€ Prishtina Free market? How Sworn virgins: Kosovo holds back Author opens local producers. up about novel. Insight page 15 page 12

A MISSION DEFLATES EULEX is reducing its size – and its bite. But is Kosovo ready? page 6

PI Guide: Luxury on the street level. PAGE 10 PageTwo2 n July 18-August 28, 2014 n Prishtina Insight 7 reasons to stay in Kosovo this summer 1. Novo Brdo Built atop a volcano, the Novo Brdo For- 3. tress in western Kosovo dates as far back as the 1300’s, and was formerly a densely Ilixha e Pejes, or the Peja Springs populated center for trade and mining. The thermal springs of Peja are supposed Now a protected zone, anyone can drive to have many healing qualities, and are one up and check out what’s left of the eight 2. of the more popular forms of folk medicine towers and three gates that used to make Boge/Rugova in Kosovo. Located in a stone house sur- 4. up the medieval city. Boge is a small village in the heart of the rounded by trees, it’s well worth the journey. Mranmor, Bear Sanctuary Prishtina Rugova mountain range, and is a great Set up in spring of last year, Kosovo’s only starting point for lovers of hiking and the bear sanctuary is situated in 16 acres of outdoors. This is the only place in Kosovo forest not far from Prishtina. The sanctu- where you can find peaks, forests, caves ary is currently home to thirteen bears, and waterfalls all in one place. Go here for all of whom were rescued from various hiking, rock climbing and camping. restaurants and private zoos in Kosovo. The sanctuary does guided educational from the editor 5. tours and is open all year round. Brod/Dragash The Dragash region in the south is home to The right dwelling for good living one of Kosovo’s best kept secrets: the Gora- ni village of Brod. The Gorani community is When the summer comes, a lot Yugoslavia, when buildings were a Slavic-speaking and of the Muslim faith, of us, especially those with a for- made seemingly to withstand an with some of the richest and unexplored folklore and tradition in the country. Lying eign passport, have a tendency apocalypse rather than as a prod- beneath the Sharr mountains, Brod is your to get as far away as possible uct of one. gateway to the gorges, lakes, rivers, and from Prishtina. It’s easy to forget It’s also important to identify mountains of southern Kosovo. sometimes that there’s a Kosovo and resolve problems before you outside of the capital – a place full move in. With the newest flat, I of untouched nature and cultural withheld half the rent until a kitch- 6. heritage. (See above) en window was secured with a But as I’ve found from living proper latch and handle, instead Prizren/Dokufest Prizren is the historical heart of Kosovo, here for nearly four years, having a of a kitchen knife. The issue was housing some of the country’s oldest good place you can call home – I’ve resolved within a day rather than homes, mosques, churches, and archi- had five in Prishtina so far – is key to the two months it took to get a tecture. Walk up the hill behind the town embracing what’s outside. water-damaged wall painted over for close up look at the Prizren Fortress, explore the home of the League of Prizren, My first flat, in the previous place. But by the and most importantly, head over while out in the Vellu- same token, it’s important to keep the Dokufest Documentary and Short Film sha Neighbor- in mind that repairing or improv- Festival is on from August 16 to 24. hood, was from ing anything can create even more the post-1999 serious problems. For example, 7. tallava era of the replacement of two old creaky Velika Hoca architecture. Nate windows can come at the expense The village of Velika Hoca in Rahovec hous- It lacked an Tabak of large chunks of the wall. es one of the highest number of historical Editor-in-Chief Serbian Orthodox churches at 13 - with the address, and Last, but not least, the plumbing. oldest dating from the thirteenth century. was somehow I’ve learned that having a second Don’t miss the the wineries, either. wedged into bathroom is also a second poten- the interior of a city block. I was tial source of flooding. And as nice lured by the modern furniture and as a shower may be, and as many new kitchen, and was ignorant of fancy nozzles as it boasts, it’s worth Prishtina Balkan Investigative Reporting Network • the fact that it was about 100 euro checking that water drains to an ac- Insight Mensa e Studenteve, first floor, 10000, Prishtina, Kosovo too expensive and subject to fre- tual drain - rather than the floor. • Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 • Editor-in-chieF: Nate quent power outages. It took other Getting these few basics right Tabak •Staff: Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, Edona Peci, Petrit Collaku, tallava flats to realize that it’s gener- may not led to having a little private Parim Olluri, Nektar Zogjani and Arijeta Lajka. • Design: Trembelat • Prishtina ally better to live in a place built dur- paradise in Prishtina, but it does Insight is supported by the Norwegian Embassy, Rockefeller Brothers Fund ing the Socialist Federal Republic of make living here a whole lot better. and the Balkan Investigative Reporting Network. Prishtina Insight n July 18-August 28, 2014 n 3

• Coppy / Print / Scan • Coppy / Print / Scan • 20 ppm • 28 ppm / Color / B&W • ARDF • ARDF • Duplex • Duplex • Bypass • Bypass • Network • Network 4 n July 18-August 28, 2014 n Prishtina Insight

Thaci spends up to Thaci becomes PM First official Nation 15 days trying to get session of new President nominates votes for new parliament held Thaci to form new government by At least 61 MPs vote government chipping away at for Thaci’s proposed opposition and government securing minority vore.

Fewer than 61 MPs vote for for Thaci’s ¤26m govt in unpaid wages owed to more than 900 former At least 61 MPs employees of Fabrikes se Tubave (Pipe Factory) vote for Haradinaj’s Thaci out of the Haradinaj government in Ferizaj. Some 40 of them have been camped in running. President becomes PM front of the main government building in protest has 10 days to name for more than six weeks, calling on the Privatisation new candidate. President likely Agency to make the payments per a decision of Vetevendosje joins nominates Parliament and the Constitutional Court. opposition coalition Haradinaj to form or agrees to back next govt. Fewer than 61 MPs vote Haradinaj Albanian President calls for for Haradinaj government protesters new elections clash with within 40 days. police in Skopje. Unclear whom photo/beta becomes pm PM candidate fails president would Vetevendosje to get 61 votes. nominate, but such a refuses to back (most likely) candidate would Haradinaj face an uphill Candidate pulls battle to form off miracle, gets 61 govt. Retrial demanded in votes for govt. mass murder case By Sinisa Jakov Aziri and Sami Ljuta were Vetevendosje Marusic and found guilty of the grave Edona Peci offence of terrorism in connection to the kill- drives hard An Albanian leader in ings. One defendant was Macedonia urged an in- acquitted. Two of the ternationally monitored men who were convict- bargain retrial of the so-called ed, Alil Demiri and Afrim 'Monster' case after six Ismailovic, are serving Albanians were found prison sentences in Ko- Party appears close to striking deal to back guilty of terrorism and sovo and were tried in jailed for life. absentia. Ramush Haradinaj’s coalition, demanding Ali Ahmeti, the head The verdict angered of the junior party in Mac- Albanians, several thou- that it take charge of talks with Serbia. edonia's ruling coalition, sand of whom who took the Democratic Union to the streets of Skopje for Integration, DUI, de- last week, throwing manded on Tuesday a stones and bricks at the By Edona Peci sition bloc by showing them it has transparent retrial and a Criminal Court building and Nektar Zogiani the power in all this political mess,” public presentation of the and at riot police, who political analyst Halil Matoshi said. evidence that led to the responded with tear gas, The opposition Vetevendosje Without Vetevendosje’s 16 conviction of six ethnic water cannon and stun Movement in Kosovo has just 16 votes, the coalition of AAK, Nisma Albanians for terrorism grenades. seats in the 120-seat parliament, and the Democratic League of Ko- - a verdict that sparked In Kosovo, more than but still appears to hold the key to sovo, LDK, may not be able to stop unrest on the streets of 200 protesters took to the Prime Minister’s office. Hashim Thaci from securing a the capital last week. the streets of Prishtina That key comes with a price. As third mandate. The statement came on Tuesday in support of of Thursday afternoon, as Parlia- With just 47 seats, well short a week after a court gave the convicted men. ment held its first session, Veteven- of the 61 needed to elect a new life sentences to six Alba- Holding posters with dosje said it was close to reaching government, it would otherwise nians for the killing of five slogans like "Skopje is a deal to back the opposition bloc need to get extra votes from ethnic ethnic Macedonians in not alone" and singing led by Ramush Haradinaj of the minority MPs, or from defectors 2012 in a case that raised nationalist songs, protest- Alliance for the Future of Kosovo, from Thaci’s Democratic Party of ethnic tensions. ers headed towards the AAK, pending an agreement on Kosovo, PDK. Alil Demiri, Afrim Macedonian embassy key conditions. The main sticking point has Ismailovic, Agim Is- where they burned the “The Vetevendosje Movement been Vetevendosje’s demand that mailovic, Fejzi Aziri, Haki Macedonian flag. is making life harder for the oppo- it lead any future EU-mediated Prishtina Insight n July 18-August 28, 2014 n 5

Thaci spends up to Thaci becomes PM First official 15 days trying to get session of new President nominates votes for new parliament held Thaci to form new government by At least 61 MPs vote Briefly government chipping away at for Thaci’s proposed opposition and government securing minority Petition demands justice for vore. wartime rape survivors. An Fewer than 61 MPs initiative to gather signatures vote for for Thaci’s for a petition demanding jus- tice for Kosovo’s survivors of At least 61 MPs govt vote for Haradinaj’s wartime rape began on Mon- Thaci out of the day in Prishtina. The petition, Haradinaj government running. President becomes PM which is supported by politi- has 10 days to name cal figures such as outgoing new candidate. A deputy prime minister Edita President likely Vetevendosje joins Tahiri, aims to call on the UN nominates opposition coalition to produce a report on rapes Haradinaj to form or agrees to back next govt. committed by Serbian securi- Fewer than 61 MPs vote Haradinaj ty forces in the 1999 conflict in President calls for for Haradinaj government new elections Kosovo. An approximate num- within 40 days. ber of wartime rapes commit- ted during the Kosovo conflict has yet to be established. Unclear whom becomes pm PM candidate fails president would Vetevendosje to get 61 votes. nominate, but such a refuses to back Serbs erect square on Mi- (most likely) candidate would Haradinaj trovica bridge. Kosovo Serbs face an uphill have begun building a square Candidate pulls battle to form off miracle, gets 61 named after a medieval Ser- govt. votes for govt. bian emperor on the bridge that separates the ethnically and politically divided town in The scramble for the Prime Minister’s office. northern Kosovo. Construction B on the “Tsar Lazar” square began on Wednesday by the same construction company talks with Serbia. That amounts to If the opposition bloc votes that removed the recently a softening of Vetevendosje’s origi- against Thaci, and Vetenvendosje built “Peace Park” there. nal demand, which was to stop the does the same - as it has pledged to Nazmi Ismaili, an Albanian talks altogether. do - Thaci will not be able to form a living in the northern Kosovo Vetevendosje, led by Albin government. said the new square was a Kurti, has taken a hard-line stance However, if Vetevendosje refus- deliberate attempt to prevent against the dialogue with Belgrade, es to back Haradinaj, either, Thaci any potential reopening of the insisting that it has aided the EU may find it easier to attract the ex- bridge. “This is a blockage of aspirations of Kosovo’s former en- tra votes he needs. the city and of the Albanians. emy while offering Kosovo little in Nevertheless, Thaci’s pros- We don’t think we will ever return. pects for securing a third term re- be able to cross the bridge by The opposition bloc has al- main slim, even though his party car,” he said. ready agreed to one of Veteven- won the largest share of the votes dosje’s other key demands, which – around 30 per cent – in the June 8 Croatia’s parliament offers is to halt the privatization of state- general elections. rights, benefits to LGBT owned companies. If the opposition parties have community. New legislation Haradinaj acknowledged the closed ranks with Vetevendosje adopted by Croatia’s parlia- stalemate with Vetevendosje, by the time that Thaci’s 10-day win- ment on Tuesday provides while expressing hope that the dow of opportunity closes, Jahjaga sweeping rights and benefits deadlock would be broken. is likely to hand the nomination to for the country’s LGBT com- “It will be hard to change the Haradinaj. If he also fails to get 61 munity. The legislation, titled situation [in the coming days], but votes, Jahjaga will have to call new C the Law on Life Partnership, further communication is an op- elections. provides same-sex couples tion in future,” Haradinaj said on Matoshi predicted that the with most of the rights and Wednesday. opposition will in the end reach a benefits available to straight Thaci is meanwhile likely to last-minute agreement that will re- couples, such as inheritance make the first attempt to form a sult in Haradinaj becoming Prime rights, medical care, taxes, and government, as President Atifete Minister. pensions. The law does not Jahjaga is expected to offer him this It remains unclear what the pri- allow for same-sex couples opportunity in line with a Consti- orities of such a government would to adopt children, but does tutional Court decision earlier this be. “We are clarifying the principles provide same-sex couples who month. Once nominated, Thaci will of the programs,” Haradinaj said are parents the same rights as have 15 days to form a government. last week. straight parents. 6 n July 18-August 28, 2014 n Prishtina Insight Cover EULEX begins to wind down

The EU’s rule-of-law mission is scaling back personnel and its leading role in prosecutions, but some are not sure if Kosovo’s institutions can pick up the slack.

By Valerie Hopkins terparts on judicial panels. EULEX Medicus organ-trafficking case. and Edona Peci personnel will be available to “mon- The mission has also dealt with a itor, mentor and advise” their local further 40,000 civil cases, mostly EULEX is not going away just yet, colleagues in their new duties. property-related, according to a EU- but it’s getting smaller – and less These changes however, are LEX spokesperson. potent. not set in stone. The EU mission While some of the most sensi- The EU Rule-of-Law Mission, in says it may “request new cases to tive war crimes cases - those involv- place since one day before Kosovo’s be assigned to EULEX prosecutors ing former members of the Kosovo 2008 declaration of independence, and request a EULEX majority on Liberation Army - will be handled will shed nearly nearly 30 per cent A EULEX police officer during a court benches in extraordinary by a new international tribunal in of its 2,070-strong staff and 20 per raid in a war-crimes case. circumstances.” Brussels, most of the onus is being cent of its 111-million-euro budget as It is the first major step towards placed on Kosovo’s institutions to it transfers more of its duties to local a stated goal of transferring all so- pick up the slack. authorities under a new mandate has been handling cases – particu- called “executive powers” to local While there are few enthusias- that begins in October. larly corruption and war crimes – authorities by 2016, when the new tic supporters of EULEX In Kosovo “EULEX will be working more deemed too sensitive for the local EULEX mandate expires. — its mere presence is perceived as with Kosovo and less for Kosovo,” authorities. “We consistently encourage an affront to the young country’s a spokeswoman for EULEX said in While the mission intends to and support local actors in stepping sovereignty — there is little indica- an e-mail. see through existing investiga- up to the plate and taking responsi- tion that the country’s own institu- During its six-and-a-half years tions, its prosecutors will no longer bility,” Maja Kocijancic, a spokes- tions are ready to pick up the slack, in place, EULEX has had a broad, initiate new cases in line with a law person for Ashton, told Prishtina which is itself a sign of the mission’s sometimes decisive role in over- passed just before parliament dis- Insight in an e-mail. own shortcomings. seeing and shaping Kosovo’s justice solved in April and an agreement To date, EULEX has dealt with “There is no good time ever and law and enforcement systems between Kosovo’s president and around 2,500 criminal cases, 350 of for EULEX to leave, but every sec- with a complement of internation- EU foreign policy chief Catherine which are considered high-profile ond should be used to make local al judges, prosecutors and police Ashton. Meanwhile EULEX judges corruption, war crimes, or organ- rule-of-law institutions more inde- at its core. Its most prominent role will be outnumbered by local coun- ized crime cases, including the pendent,” said Shpend Kursani, a Prishtina Insight n July 18-August 28, 2014 n 7

EULEX was established to sup- port the rule of law institutions of a newly independent Kosovo in 2008, but did not actually recog- nize the state’s independence.

photos/atdhe mulla

By the numbers

Prishtina analyst who has studied the mission extensively. “The pres- ence of EULEX, with the powers it 2,345 ~2,500 ~40,000 ~350 ~¤110m had so far, did not contribute to that, days in operation criminal cases civil cases verdicts in cases spent per year because EULEX has been a parallel handled handled of high-profile mission above the local institutions corruption, and not one that has improved their organized crime, work,” he said. and war crimes Nevertheless, there are signs that the process may not be a date has handled some of the coun- Morina, however, expressed pleted and plans for downsizing smooth one. try’s most sensitive cases. a commitment to taking on tough were taking shape, a group of inter- Some EULEX staff have pri- Few local prosecutors have ac- cases, including war crimes. national judges also raised concern vately expressed unhappiness tually worked on war crimes cases, “Although the war was a just that their local counterparts would about how the mission is cutting which are particularly challenging fight for liberty, as anywhere else, be unable to take over the caseload. 600 positions – 400 international in Kosovo when the defendants are there have been some violations “We have not yet reached the and 200 local – in part through an former members of the Kosovo Lib- [of the laws of war],” she said. “Any stage where the more complex open competition process. eration Army. violation has to be investigated and and very sensitive cases, such as Kosovo’s acting chief pros- The 2013 EU progress report the cases must be resolved.” war crimes, serious corruption ecutor, Sevdije Morina, also com- on Kosovo noted that positions Morina acknowledged that sen- and organized crime, should be plained that she has been left in the for prosecutors in the special pros- sitive cases are difficult in Kosovo, completely handed over to the lo- dark about EULEX investigations. ecution chamber were unfilled and but expressed hope that her pros- cal judiciary,” the 17 judges wrote to "So far, EULEX prosecutors did momentum to prosecute hig- level ecutors are up to the challenge. Mats Mattson, the head of EULEX’s not share the information they re- crimes was lacking: “At the moment, "There are no reasons for pros- executive division, suggesting the ceived during their investigations,” there is a lack of capacity and com- ecutors in Kosovo to be scared,” she transition should happen more said Morina, who will be overseeing mitment to investigate crimes that said. slowly. EULEX prosecutors in the Office of fall under the jurisdiction of the spe- In January, after a strategic re- This will be new terrain for the Special Prosecutor, which to cial prosecution,” the report stated. view of EULEX’s mandate was com- judges, but Enver Peci, head of the CONTINUES ON PAGE 8 8 n July 18-August 28, 2014 n Prishtina Insight Cover

Rocky beginnings A status neutral mission Sore spots Highlights

During the status talks between Kosovo’s Declaration of The mission does not have High level cases involving powerful a yet-independent Kosovo Independence and constitution to report to any of Kosovo’s politicians and their involvement and Serbia in 2006, the EU provided a legitimate invitation institutions, and EULEX staff in corruption scandals and war had created a planning team for the deployment of EULEX enjoy immunity from Kosovo’s crimes have been pursued, that was supposed to transfer - however, as a mission based laws. The mission can reverse despite resistance from Kosovo’s power from the United Nations on the authority of UNSC and annul actions and decisions government. More capacity Mission in Kosovo (UNMIK), to Resolution 1244 and the Special taken by Kosovo’s institutions building, advising, and training of a then undefined EU mission in Representative of the Secretary and governmental bodies - to Kosovo’s judiciary and police force Kosovo. When the talks failed it General (SRSG) to Kosovo, the date EULEX has yet to enact are more than welcome. became clear that the Ahtisaari mission should not technically this power. EULEX staff typically Plan, which envisaged Kosovo’s recognize Kosovo’s independence have one-year contracts, without supervised independence, would or laws. On the other hand, since a high possibility of contract fail to be approved at the UN and the authority of UNMIK and the renewal. These short periods the EU. In order to prevent the SRSG are no longer recognized of employment don’t provide deployment of the mission from by Kosovo’s institutions, the EULEX staff with enough time being blocked by EU member decisions of EULEX judges to complete high level cases of states, UNSC Resolution 1244 was can be challenged by Kosovo’s organized crime, corruption, or chosen as the legal basis for what Constitutional Court. Being status- war crimes. EULEX is unable to would later become EULEX. neutral did, however, help with the extradite suspects from other mission’s acceptance in northern, countries - most importantly, Serb-dominated Kosovo. Despite from Serbia. this inherent contradiction, Kosovo’s laws have been used by EULEX judges thus far.

EULEX through the years

2006: EU Planning Team starts 2008: EULEX deploys under UN Security 2012: Supervised independence of strategizing a handover of power Council Resolution 1244 Kosovo ends, president Jahjaga invites EULEX to remain engaged in Kosovo

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 7 EULEX

Kosovo Judicial Council, says local north: customs collection began this is all problematic and is mak- judges are ready. at the borders with Serbia early ing a mockery of the principles of “We don’t have any problems this year, Serbian interior ministry the rule of law.” leading trials with EULEX judges in employees were removed from so- While EULEX’s new mandate terms of professionalism,” he said. called ‘parallel institutions’ and the expires June 2016, it remains un- “However, when it comes to sen- police force in north Kosovo, which likely that it will make a precise sitive war crime cases that involve used to answer to Serbia, was inte- end date to mission even as it con- ethnic Serbs, the Kosovo Judicial grated into the Kosovo Police. tinues to transfer more responsi- Council believes EULEX judges The renewed mandate comes bility to the local authorities. The should continue to deal with these Police from EULEX stand watch as both Serbia and Kosovo are lag- EU has invested more than a half- cases until an agreement of the on Mitrovica’s bridge. ging behind on implementing un- billion euros in the mission thus re-integration of Serb judges is realistic deadlines set in the April far, in one its most expensive for- achieved.” 2013 agreement. Serbia held early eign policy undertaking to date. Nora Ahmetaj, Executive Di- elections in March and Kosovo’s A former EULEX employee, rector of the Centre for Research, EULEX, for its part, said that parliament dissolved in April in who spoke on the condition of Documentation and Publication in while it is cutting back, it remains anticipation of early elections, so anonymity, said there’s a sense in Prishtina, said she was concerned committed to the integration of Eurocrats and parliamentarians the mission that it was just start- about Kosovo judges’ ability to Kosovo’s Serb minority and the rushed to get a new EULEX man- ing to hit its stride with recent handle war crimes, as EULEX “has implementation of the April 2013 date on the lawbooks before it was prominent corruption cases, in- failed to strengthen the domestic agreement that is incorporating set to expire in June. cluding the charges against Uke judiciary. Serb institutions in northern Ko- Bodo Weber, a German policy Rugova, the son of Kosovo’s first “It is essential to increase the lo- sovo into Prishtina’s institutions – analyst, said that the EULEX transi- president, Ibrahim Rugova, a na- cal judges’ capacities, so that they including bringing Serb judges into tion is happening haphazardly “in tional hero who died in 2006. get prepared to take the leading Kosovo courts. the rush to the new mandate”. “I wish they will would stay as role in proceeding war crime cas- EULEX has already achieved “They created a mess,” Weber long as possible,” the former em- es,” she said. some measure of success in the said. “From a legal point of view, ployee said. Prishtina Insight n July 18-August 28, 2014 n 9

EULEX has handled high-profile cases including the Llap group, right, and Nazim Bllaca, the self- proclaimed former assassin for SHIK, a defunct intelligence agency.

2014: EULEX mandate renewed 2016: End of mandate

EULEX staffing “There is no good time ever for EULEX Now After the cuts to leave, but every second should be used to make local rule-of-law institu- tions more independent. The presence 2070 total 1470 total (-600) of EULEX, with the powers it had so 950 local 750 local (-200) far, did not contribute to that, because EULEX has been a parallel mission 1120 international 720 international (-400) above the local institutions and not one that has improved their work.” — Shpend Kursani, analyst

-29%Source: Internal EULEX plan 10 n July 18-August 28, 2014 n Prishtina Insight

Four stars: Perfection Three stars: Superb Two Stars: Good One Star: Just OK No Star: Don’t Bother SUPERB piguide « « « « Fine dining on the boulevard By Nate Tabak

Mother Teresa Boulevard isn’t known for its compelling eating and drinking options. Prishtina’s pedestrians’-only heart is the place to grab a table, enjoy the sun, and perhaps do a bit of people watching. But as I sat tableside in the shadow of the Swiss Diamond hotel, I was fixated on the Negroni cocktail that was among the best I’ve had in this city. The simple mix of Campari, gin and sweet ver- mouth is well within the means of nearly every bar’s inventory, but no one ever seems to get it right – or get it at all. This being the Iliria Terrace, the luxury hotel’s most downmar- ket eating and drinking venue, the cocktail did come with a price: the 6 euro and change. Most drinks range from 3 to 4 euro in bars. Con- sequently, I had just one. During my Sunday afternoon A negroni cocktail will set you back more than 6 euro cocktail, the food options also at the Swiss Diamond’s Iliria Terrace. caught my attention, especially the Swiss Diamond Sandwich, healthy application of pesto, de- and its promise of veal and peanut spite being inherently annoyed Ilira butter. At many places in Prishtina with having a meal at such a hoity Terrace such a combination might frighten toity place. me. But for all its lack of affordabil- With two sandwiches and two Mother ity — this sandwich coming in at Coke Zeros (marked up to 1.50 Theresa a whopping 4 euro — the hotel’s euro apiece), we escaped the Iliria Boulevard kitchen knows how to prepare Terrace for 10.50 euro. That’s (At Swiss good food. a lot to spend on lunch in Diamond The sandwich bearing Prishtina, especially for Hotel) the hotel’s name was no ex- EAT such a basic order. Therein ception. The combination of lies the dilemma with eating 8 a.m. to 12 thinly sliced steak and peanut but- at Swiss Diamond - especially a.m. daily ter evoked Thai satay. Fresh toma- with the 20 euro Sunday brunch toes, greens and corn helped offset and dinners that are among the the richness. I wasn’t thrilled with priciest the city. The food is re- the high bread to filling ratio, but ally good, but it’s not clear that it’s the sesame seed roll was certainly worth it. good. The french fries served on On a subsequent visit I faced Iliria Terrace, like the hotel’s the side, however, nearly stole the the similar conflict when i ordered main restaurant, Restaurant Iliria, show. They were thick and clearly the tabouleh salad. It was bursting and the hotel as whole, is selling an twice fried, as they’re supposed to with fresh herbs, and could cer- escape. The escape is one of luxury be but rarely are. The friend who tainly hold its own in the Middle and proper execution that is lack- joined me for lunch was pleas- East. But the 4.40 euro bought a ing across the service industry in antly surprised with her tomato portion that would have been fine Kosovo. All of this comes at a price and mozzarella sandwich and its as a side dish. – and that’s not for everyone. Prishtina Insight n July 18-August 28, 2014 n 11

A drinker’s hideaway in the center Newly opened Backgarden, just off Mother Teresa Boulevard, is a refreshing replacement to the short-lived Mexicana restaurant. It’s a solid bar with typical beer and liquor offerings, with a particularly nice back yard that’s a nice oasis in the heart of Prishtina. FYI Backgarden, Fehmi Agani 14, just off Mother Teresa.

01 Pallet Lounge WHERE Pallet lounge is an newly opened, exquisite cafe restaurant that offers TO PICK UP a variety of multicultural dishes and drinks. It is located right across the AUK University in the outskirts PRISHTINA of the city, surrounded by nature. Gërmia Road (across AUK) +386 INSIGHT (0)49 880-777 palletlounge@ gmail.com facebook.com/Pallet Hotel Prishtina 06 Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charm- Lounge Papillon Bistro Bar ing guest rooms and suites are 02 Papillon offers more than 60 types reminiscent of a small hotel in of wines from France, Italy, Spain, the European tradition. The hotel and Kosovo with great prices and offers free, fast wifi internet, com- delicious dishes. You can also try plimentary breakfast, conference different types of local or interna- room, swimming pool, sauna and tional beers. Mother Teresa Str. Nr. laundry service. Hotel Prishtina, 51 A [email protected] St. Vaso Pasha nr. 20, +381 38 / 044 103 310 22 32 84. Hotel AFA 03 Pizza Napoli Located in a quiet neighbourhood 07 A taste of Napoli in Prishtina. just outside the city centre, Hotel After ten years of making pizza Afa can guarantee guests a peace- in Napoli, and with only love to ful night while being within walking blame, Fatmir, the head chef, distance of all the action. Rooms returned to Prishtina. His pizzas, start at 45 euro for a single, and made in a woodburn stove, are luxury rooms and apartments are definitely genuine napolitanas. available. The hotel’s rooms are Fatmir also has several delicious well appointed and comfortable. pastas on offer, a true joy for the 15, Rr Ali Kelmendi, Sunny Hill, taste buds. Pizzeria Napoli off Prishtina +381 38/225 226 www. Luan Haradinaj, opposite hotelafa.com Newborn. 044/194-710. 049/194-710

04 Hotel Gracanica A place to relax in the calm and clean air of the countryside, just 15 minute sfrom Prishtina city center, 500 m from the center of Gracanica and its UNESCO World Heritage monastery and a short walk to the archeological site EAT of Ulpiana. The boutique hotel 07 combines contemporary architec- ture with traditional elements to create a unique atmosphere that will make you feel at home. +381 06 (0)38 729 888 (landline) +386 02 (0)49 764 000 03 [email protected] www.hotelgracanica.com www.facebook.com/HotelGra- canica

04 12 n July 18-August 28, 2014 n Prishtina Insight culture The dark side of sworn virginity Elvira Dones discusses the success of the English translation of her challenging novel, ‘Sworn Virgin’ By Hana Marku

Hana Doda is a sworn virgin of the type that Albanians have never heard of: a woman who became a man, changed her mind, and reverted to being a wom- an again. After 14 years of living as Mark, her cousin, Lila, invited her to emigrate to America. When she did so, she not only had to adapt to a new country and a new culture, she needed also to “learn” how to act and dress like a woman again. Her story is told with sensitivity and insight by Albanian author Elvira Dones, in the English translation of “Sworn Vir- gin,” or “Hana,” as it is known to Alba- nian readers. Dones’ own story is almost Elvira Dones as dramatic as that of her protagonist. Raised and educated in Communist of the sworn virgin tradition: a person in across the room in frustration), lipstick Albania, she defected to Switzerland in skirts is not considered an autonomous (anxiously applied for her first date), styl- 1988, eventually bringing her son along being, capable of deciding their own fate. ing one’s hair, and flirting in the right way with her. During her time in Switzerland However, put that same person in pants with a man. Her struggle reflects the expe- she published books and produced docu- and they can claim the respect of their riences of a real former sworn virgin, one mentaries about topics as diverse as the entire community. While on an interview Dones met after the novel was completed. Kosovo war, the sex trafficking of Albani- tour in Albania, TV talkshow host Ilva “The only ‘Hana’ who regretted her de- an women in Italy, blood feuds, the lives of Tare questioned Dones’ decision to por- cision was a big discovery. She gave me the sworn virgins in northern Albania, and a tray Albanian customs in such a condem- runaround for three weeks, but I finally got semi-autobiographical, fictionalized ac- natory light. Dones responded: “I don’t to interview her,” Dones says. A few years count of her decision to leave Albania. think that a writer is an extended hand after a rakia-fuelled interview in northern Dones now lives in San Francisco, where of the national tourism agency. A writer Albania, Dones heard that this “Hana” had Prishtina Insight asked her to discuss the is someone who shows the wounds of moved to the US, and had decided to dress buzz around “Sworn Virgin.” The book society that he or she has chosen to show.” and identify as a woman again. won praise in international media such She remains just as unabashed about “She wanted to grow out her hair, to as the Guardian. “I couldn't put it down,” her creative choices in this regard when not be a target of the village, and to be a reviewer Kapka Kassabova wrote. we talk one Monday morning over Skype. caretaker for her sister’s grandchildren. “Sworn Virgin” tells the story of the “Why isn’t the same question presented This woman’s desire for her feminin- dark side of the Albanian tradition of to male writers - both foreign and Alba- ity had nothing to do with sex. She only sworn virgins: one becomes a sworn vir- nian - about their sensitivity towards wanted the dignity of confirming that she gin in order to carry on the family name female characters?” Dones asks. “I con- was female and a girl, not a lesbian, and in the event of no male heirs. It is the only sider that question very chauvinistic. In she wanted to live with dignity in a city method sanctioned by the so-called Ka- this century, people still ask questions where no one would look at how she’s nun to avoid marriage, and to live a life of like why was this book written from a dressed,” Dones explains. respect not extended towards women in woman’s perspective, or (and in Albania The politics of gender brought up by traditional, rural, Albanian society. When this question has always been asked, both the novel are not lost on Dones, but the Hana becomes Mark, she leaves Tirana, indirectly and directly), why are you deal- source of inspiration for the story is her her university, her books, her crushes ing with these ‘strange’ topics?” interviews and direct experiences with and her dreams for a lonely life of hard In many ways, “Sworn Virgin” com- sworn virgins. “Every time I get asked this labour in the mountains. That’s the price ments on the way sex, gender, and iden- question - why women? - my answer is be- to be paid for refusing to marry the man tity intertwine. In the US, Hana begins cause women are half of this society. My her dying uncle chose for her. to “relearn” the social cues that signal answer is that the Kanun, which we either The story highlights the absurd side womanhood: skirts (which she throws glorify or reject in the most cannibalistic, Prishtina Insight n July 18-August 28, 2014 n 13

‘Sworn Virgin’ tells the story of the dark side of the Albanian tradition of sworn virgins: one becomes a sworn virgin in order to carry on the family name in the event of no male heirs.

“Sworn Virgin” By Elvira Dones 256 pages, paperback.

Photos/Miklos Vincze murderous, and bloodthirsty way, had a Puka, and Lezha, came and studied at “They had to wash the feet of every few rules that show us that women were the Faculty of History and Philology, I male family member in the house, and nothing in that family structure. noticed that those girls and women be- eat the leftovers of whatever meals they “When the idea came to me, it wasn’t haved differently. They weren’t as loud left behind... In this way, they [sworn vir- with a ‘program’ in mind. I was sixteen- as us, they weren’t as modern as us, and gins] are kind of revolutionary in their and-a-half when two neighbors of mine they weighed their words more carefully. own way. With their own reasoning and from northern Albania (the wife was “In a way I built ‘Hana’ up in my mind, in their own way they decided to go down from Shkodra, the husband from Kosovo) bit by bit, as an act of rebellion - because that path, by telling their fathers that they showed me a photo from a big wedding in I thought at that age, how is it possible to would live as men. It was the only way,” Kosovo. In the middle of the photo, in the make such a decision [becoming a sworn Dones says. midst of the clan, there was this tall, very virgin], when you don’t know anything Despite the bizarre nature of Hana’s handsome man - in traditional costume of about your life, or the shape your person- situation to foreign readers, the resil- course. I asked our neighbor, uncle Naim, ality will take? That’s why my perspective ience, imagination, and good humor of ‘Is this the man of the house?’ He smiled on the book was on the loneliness faced her voice, which narrates the novel, has and said, ‘No, this isn’t the man of the house. by these women,” she says. met with high praise. Through her strug- She is a sworn virgin,’” recalls Dones. “Sworn Virgin” suggests that Hana’s gles to return to womanhood and femi- Hana spends her years as Mark in the emancipation is to be found in choice - ninity, to adapt to both her cousin’s family mountains of northern Albania, an unfor- the choice to both become a man and to and to the US, and to possibly find love, a giving and beautiful landscape that Dones return to being a woman again. However, strange, little-known tradition outside of describes with a timeless quality. This re- the question remains whether sworn the Albanian-speaking world is human- spect for the north spills over into her views virginity is really a choice in a world gov- ized and made familiar. on the northern “type”, which can easily erned by the stiff rules of the Kanun. Asked why Hana’s story has resonated flirt with the caricature of the typical moun- Dones posits that sworn virginity is so strongly with readers and critics, Dones tain man (or in this case, woman) as stoic, a choice, and, in a certain sense, a revo- responds: “That ‘exotic’ part of Albania, it old-fashioned, and honorable. The charac- lutionary choice. “From a Western point speaks to them from within. The solitude ter of Hana is clearly built on a combination of view, sworn virginity is almost a kind that a woman of this kind experiences of the tough, quiet, northern women that of enslavement, but it should always be maybe this offers a break in perspective Dones met in her university years, as well viewed from the historical and cultural from daily life in North America or Europe. as a potentially semi-autobiographical love context of the tradition. It wasn’t right, I could be wrong, but I think that the book of writing, reading, and poetry. but they were given in marriage by their has opened up a window to things that “When female students from the fathers when they were still in the womb, were unknown until then, and I think that’s north, from towns like Dragobia, Kukesi, sometimes to men in their 50s. what makes them interested in the book.” 14 n July 18-August 28, 2014 n Prishtina Insight Prishtina Insight n July 18-August 28, 2014 n 15 Opinion Send us your thoughts to [email protected]. Local producers go it alone

The initial conversations I have with new Kosovar acquaintances all tend to be very similar: Hi, How are you, are you good, are you tired? Where are you from? When I first arrived in Kosovo in Au- gust 2012, and started to go about the business of opening my microbrewery, I met more people than I could possibly remember. Some would eventually be- come significant to me and my business, while others would fade. Nearly all of the conversations started with some variation of the questions above. So, I would give my answer: I am good; yes, very good; no, I am not tired. I am from New York. The next question was as predictable as the first. Why would you leave New York for Kosovo? I had moved here to be with the wom- an that I love and to pursue a business opportunity doing one of the things I love – making beer. When I look at Kosovo, I see jobs, and improving the GDP. This is not a blank slate. So many products and ser- an awfully complex idea, and of course ALEX vices are just unavailable here that, at first some organizations have attempted and BUTLER glance, it’s an entrepreneur’s wild dream. continue to support the investment in lo- All one needs to do is imagine a business cal manufacturing. Sadly, the law and local slightly more inspiring than a car wash, attitudes seem to work against them. and the possibilities are endless. When we deal with importing ingre- owners can’t afford to compete legiti- But … Why Kosovo? Despite some dients, for instance, we pay customs and mately. vague admiration, to many people, my an- value-added tax (VAT) on everything that At the same time, public support for swer of following a passion did not seem crosses the border, amounting to 27 per- domestically produced goods is remark- satisfactory. cent added to the value of the goods. Then, ably low. Despite campaigns like Duaje It’s been just over a year since Sabaja when the goods are sold, another VAT of Tenden (Love Your Own), many Kosovars brewed its first batch of beer, and just shy 16 percent is added to the wholesale price, still perceive imported products as higher of two years since I moved to Prishtina. In and then another 16 percent on top of that quality, even despite the fact that Kosovo that time, I’ve learned a hard truth: Despite is added when a bar sells the product at consistently imports second-rate prod- all the potential, Kosovo is a terribly chal- the retail level. Now, sure, the cost of VAT ucts. Class D cigarette, anyone? lenging place to start a small business. is passed on to the final customer, in the- I have a litany of examples I could There are the obvious barriers: corrup- ory, and if you wanted to invite the Tax draw from – vague regulations that are tion, near-monopolistic competition, and Administration over to ruthlessly audit nearly impossible for a new business to the omnipresent rumors of mafia protec- your books, go ahead. You might be able find, potential for powerful competition tion rackets – all three of which are inevi- to reclaim that money, but that comes at to influence legislation that could hinder tably intertwined. But there are forces far the cost of disrupted operations and po- small competitors, and inconsistently less competent that really perpetuate the tentially devastating fines if “mistakes” enforced rules to name a few. And yet, I issue here. are found (see the case of 3CIS, a tech firm have hope. We see the response that our How does a young and unstable econ- that got unfairly saddled with a devastat- modest little brewery is getting, and the omy mature, grow, and develop sustain- ing tax bill). fact that a few people are willing to pay a ability? A better economist than I could Ultimately, the triple taxation on manu- premium for a better product. Still, in light write a dissertation on the topic, but in facturers leads to higher prices on locally of all that I have learned, I am not running basic terms, an economy like Kosovo’s produced goods, making them uncompeti- back to the United States to encourage my stands to benefit most from increased tive against global brands that are imported friends to invest in Kosovo. manufacturing, which will offset imports at extremely low cost and taxed only once and eventually increase exports, thus bal- or twice. It’s no wonder Kosovo that has a Alex Butler owns and operates the ancing the nation’s trade deficit, providing massive black economy - small business Sabaja Craft Brewery in Prishtina. 16 n July 18-August 28, 2014 n Prishtina Insight

PHOTO/MAJLINDA HOXHA