The Best of Florence, Tuscany & Umbria

TTHEHE BBESTEST OOFF FFLORENCE,LORENCE, TTUSCANYUSCANY & UUMBRIAMBRIA

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

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8 THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA Introduction 1 1

1 A 8 his exiletherein1814. eclectic in Francesca ispreservedin the there’s thewine:notjust in Florence, ping liquidizedolivesstraightoffthetree—andsamplemouthwatering land ofElbaharborssightsassociatedwith a heritagebestexploredtodayinthehilltownsof tivals inSpoleto andPerugiaare giantoutdoor parties. beaches someofthemost enticinginEurope, anditsmodern fes- and justly famous wines.The region’s famed sunshinemakes Elba’s mountains, andolive groves andvineyards thatproduce richoils ies. This isalandoflushlandscapes,thesnowcapped Apennine of Florence. Yet theregion isn’tallmedieval churches andgaller- Giotto isonfulldisplayinthebasilicaat Siena, especiallyitsGothic nate itinerariesoftheregion,maketimeforpreservedmedieval gemsof PREVIOUS History Eating & Drinking Sightseeing sandwich dine inoneoftheﬁ Arts & Culture hundreds ofyears;itsshowstopping the exuberantfacadeof Ufﬁ (Michelangelo), Tuscan Middle Ages arecommemoratedatdedicatedmuseumsinCaprese blowing sight.Don’t overlookUmbria,withthe Assisi and Gimignano at exceptionalmuseumsin 0 7 4 Sansepolcro. 6 zi Sagrantinos 6 4 - areworld-classattractions.Thepicturesquestreetsof c h

PAGE 0 Central Italy’s complexrecordedhistorybeginswith theEtruscans, Spoleto Festival 1 . atanUmbrianfarmers’ market.Try the Galleria Nazionale i n d : dripwithmedievalhistory, while Florence’s Duomo. Baci chocolates d TheartistictreasuresofFlorence havebeenstupefyingvisitorsfor

2 WhiletheartisticdelightsofRenaissanceFlorence oftendomi- ofMontefalco,andsubtlewhites Theregion’s contemporarycultureisbestrepresentedbythe Vinci to gorgeous hilltowns andthemajestic palazzi Michelangelo, Botticelli, andPiero dellaFrancesca, ing artandarchitecture, from thesublimework of Umbria boast someoftheworld’s most mesmeriz- s thecradle oftheRenaissance, Tuscany and ne EatingisarealjoyinTuscany andUmbria,whetheryou osterias Orvieto’s cathedral. (Leonardo daVinci), Arezzo’s SanFrancesco church and Palazzo Pubblico Cortona Chianti, inPerugia, andPrato’s crunchy ofFlorence,orjustgrabacrisp,fatty Perugia’s annual jazzfest. incosmopolitanPerugia. Farther south,soakup Duomo, and buttherich Assisi, Napoleon Bonaparte, Orvieto. Pisa’s LeaningTower

Galleria dell’Accademia, Basilica diSanFrancesco andFlorence whilethelegacyofPierodella and olive oil Volterra Brunellos Orvieto. Thebignamesofthe Duomo.

andaﬁ here—it’s likesip- and (Dante). cantucci. Siena ofMontalcino, Thegeniusof Chiusi, ne museum datingfrom porchetta isamind- and Theis- gelato Then and and San in 11/18/12 9:41 AM / 1 8

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THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences 9

2 1 / 8 1 / A 11/18/12 9:41 AM It’s It’s passeggiata. Tuscany and Um- Tuscany ows up the street to one piazza and Perugia’s wide Corso Vannucci is perfect for wide Corso Vannucci Perugia’s The walk from Florence up to Fiesole is fa- The walk from Florence The elegant Republic of Lucca is still snuggled com- The elegant Republic UNFORGETTABLE UNFORGETTABLE (even if they cheated and took carriages). But don’t neglect took carriages). But don’t (even if they cheated and 3

d d n most i . 1 0 h c - 4 the early-evening stroll Italians everywhere turn out for—the the early-evening stroll Italians everywhere turn in arm with your best friendthe time to see and be seen, to promenade arm dressed in your best duds. The crowd ﬂ mous enough to earn a scene in the movie adaptation of E. M. Forster’s a scene in the movie adaptation of E. M. Forster’s mous enough to earn more on Fiesole, see chapter 4. more on Fiesole, see chapter Room with a View Arno; the and Bellosguardo that rise south of the the hills of San Miniato For are closer at hand, and the land is less developed. views over the city here the corner reveals a new wonder in paint or stone. If you’ve ever had any curi- paint or stone. If you’ve a new wonder in the corner reveals place in the world just landed in the best what it all means, you’ve osity about to learn. bria are stuffed with the planet’s best art and architecture—from frescoedart and architecture—from best with the planet’s bria are stuffed every turn of date back 700 years—and civic paintings that chapels to giant men at picnic tables in their 40th year of a never-ending card game. See “Cir- men at picnic tables in their 40th year of a never-ending in chapter 6. cumnavigating the Walls,” fortably behind its 16th-century walls, ramparts so thick they were able to be walls, ramparts so thick they were fortably behind its 16th-century a 5km city park—a tree-lined promenade running converted into a narrow mode of city rooftops. The bicycle is the preferred (3-mile) loop around the under the and you’ll be in good company as you tool transportation in Lucca, and old strollers, businessmen walking their dogs, shade past parents pushing An Evening Stroll in Perugia: Stroll An Evening Biking Lucca’s Walls: Biking Lucca’s Hiking the Hills of Florence: A Crash Course in Painting, Sculpture & Architecture: Sculpture in Painting, Course A Crash 6

6 W W W 4 W 7 0 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES TRAVEL THE THE Cycling is the best way to tour Lucca. tour to way is the best Cycling 8 1 1 1 8 7 9 _ 4 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd 3 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd 4 4 _ 4 9 1 7

8 THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Most Charming Hill Towns 1 1

1 8 Shopping inSanGimignano. THE TOWNS 0 7 W 4 W W 6

6 “Volterra,” inchapter5. shops whereartisanscraftthenativealabasterintotranslucentsouvenirs.See the sometimeswild,vastcountrysidesurroundingit.Volterra isfullofwork- Etruscan era.From itsmagniﬁ one ofthebestcountryside to Assisi, butbesuretostopamileoutsidetownforbiglunchat contemplation withthemonksandwanderingstateparkland,headback tains ofMonteSubasiotoSt.Francis’s oldhermitage. After amorningspentin ca’s frescoesfortheafternoonandgetupearlytohikeintowoodedmoun- a primalUmbriancountryexperienceinovertouristed Assisi? Savethebasili- Volterra: San Gimignano: Going OfftheBeaten Path inAssisi: lates inoneoftheclassycafesliningstreet.See“Perugia” inchapter10. meandering, takeabreaktosipcappuccinoandnibblePerugia’s ﬁ then turnsaroundandsauntersbackdowntotheotherend.Whenyoutireof to yourself.See“SanGimignano,”inchapter5. all thetourbuseshaveleft,whenyou’llgardensandsmall when moonlit,makeitoneofItaly’s mostatmospherichilltowns.Stayuntil 15th-century frescoes.SanGimignano’s skylineandbackalleys,especially Church” awardforitsoldDuomo,whoseinteriorwallsareslatheredwith en tallstonetowers,allslightlyaskew. Itwinsthe“MostDenselyDecorated 4 - c h 0 1 . i most n d d

ProudVolterra hasbeenimportantinwesternTuscany sincethe

4 The“MedievalManhattan”bristleswithmorethanadoz- CHARMINGHILL trattorie cent rockypromontory, the ochercitysurveys incentralItaly. See“Assisi”inchapter10. Whowould’vethoughtyoucouldﬁ La Stalla, ne choco- ne piazze nd nd all all 11/18/12 9:41 AM / 1 8

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THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Best Festivals 9

2 1 / 8 1 / 11/18/12 9:41 AM (neighborhood lled with costumed contrade ght scene. See “Todi,” in ght scene. See “Todi,” Santa Maria della Consolazione in Todi. Santa Maria della Consolazione Arezzo really comes alive for this Renais- Arezzo really comes alive for ll its First, divide the city into its traditional neighbor- FESTIVALS Almost anything goes at this bareback, breakneck horse race 5

This stony hill town stony hill This

This ancient Umbrian d d n best i Umbria’s most picturesque hill town somehow avoids most of the Umbria’s . 1 0 h c - 4 famed Chianina cattle, raised infamed Chianina where Etruscan the valley below, importance tombs hint at the city’s See “Cor- in a pre-Caesar Tuscany. tona,” in chapter 9. is no longer big enough to fi enough to longer big is no but it still has itsmedieval walls, An- paintings by Fra’ museums of local boys Luca Signo- gelico and da Cortona. Therelli and Pietro serve steak from therestaurants chapter 11. tourists. Many of its streets are so steep they’ve been chipped with shallowtourists. Many of its streets are so steep they’ve across the valley open up unexpectedly, staircases down the middle. Vistas piazza is a town hall sprout- and on the perfectly proportioned medieval main ing a staircase perfect for an Errol Flynn sword-fi sance titling tournament where the target at which mounted jousters aim their lances swivels around and can actually hit back. See “Arezzo” in chapter 9. around the dirt-packed Campo, and the competitive around the dirt-packed Campo, and the competitive chapter 5. wards) usually make sure everything does. The square is fi wards) usually make sure everything does. The are set up on long outdoor ta- pageantry before the race, and massive feasts side streets. See “Siena” inbles that can stretch for blocks on the medieval Arezzo’s Giostra del Saracino: Giostra Arezzo’s Siena’s Palio: Siena’s Florence’s Calcio Storico: Florence’s Todi: Gubbio: Cortona: a whole calf to roast in the streets and write it all off in honor of St. John thea whole calf to roast in the streets and write 2. Baptist. See the “Calendar of Events,” in chapter hoods for teams, cover Piazza Santa Croce with dirt, and don Renaissancehoods for teams, cover Piazza Santa Croce one part (Ameri- one part rugby, costumes. Next, combine two parts soccer, attitude. Give the winnerscan) football, and a heaping helping of ice-hockey museum and the same echoey medieval atmosphere that pervades the entiremuseum and the same echoey medieval atmosphere town. See “Gubbio,” in chapter 10. of civilization before the wilder- of civilization before Apennines. The ness of the high over thecentral piazza cantilevers terrace.lower town like a huge on one endThe square is bounded sharp stoneby a mighty palace, all lines and squared-off battlements. Inside is a cluttered archaeological stronghold is like the last outpoststronghold is like the 6

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8 THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Greatest Museum Masterpieces 1 1

1 8 THE Siena’s Palio. MASTERPIECES 0 7 W 4 W W W W W 6

6 or theremainsofaRomantheater. See“Spoleto”inchapter11. ancient hilltown.ManyoftheeventsarestagedoutsideinPiazzadelDuomo some ofthebiggestnamesinorchestralmusic,dance,andtheatertothis Renaissance. Seep.127. the ﬂ on thehalfshell.Thegoddessofloveisbornfromsea,abeauty drawnin of Tuscany itself.Seep.140. himself, theperfectRenaissancenude,masterpieceofsculpture,and symbol unveiled intheearly14thcentury. Seep. 197. by saints,wascarriedthroughthe streetsofSienaintriumphwhenitwas na): Thegenre-deﬁ Rosso Fiorentino’s Duccio diBuoninsegna’s Sandro Botticelli’s Michelangelo’s Spoleto &theSpoleto Festival: Gubbio’s Corso deiCeri: picture galleryexhibitsallthehallmarks oftheschool:torsion,narrative truly greatnativeTuscan artisticmovement. TheprizeworkofVolterra’s of artinspiredbyMichelangelo and ledby Andrea delSarto, wasthelast in chapter10. side asfasttheycan.Thetown’s patronsaintinvariablywins.See“Gubbio” they shoulderthetowers(actuallygiantcandles)andtearupmountain- topped withstatuesofsaints. After awildinvocationceremonyinthepiazza, of burly, costumedmentrotabouttownalldaycarryingthreehugetowers 4 - c h 0 1 owing linesandlimpidgrace ofonethemostelegantmasters . i greatest n d d

6 David ning paintingoftheVirgin Maryinmajesty, surrounded Deposition Birth of Venus of Birth (Galleria dell’Accademia, Florence): The Big Guy (Galleriadell’Accademia,Florence):TheBigGuy InoneofItaly’s mostancientfestivals,teams Maestà MUSEUM (Pinacoteca, Volterra): Mannerism,astyle GianCarloMenotti’s annualbashbrings (Museodell’OperaMetropolitana,Sie- (GalleriadegliUfﬁ zi, Florence):Venus 11/18/12 9:41 AM / 1 8 / 1 2

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THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Finest Church Art 9

2 1 / 8 1 / 11/18/12 9:41 AM rst nal set, boost- (Santa Maria Novella and (Duomo, Prato): The recent Birth of Venus. (Sant’Andrea, Pistoia): For more (Sant’Andrea, Pistoia): For (Battistero, Florence): In 1401, rst perfecter of virtual reality. See p. rst perfecter of virtual reality. Botticelli’s Botticelli’s gure painting with his strongly modeled char- Resur-

Gates of Paradise ned ﬁ Pulpit of St. Andrew & the Cappella Brancacci (Museo Civico, is possibly a portrait of the amorous monk’s mistress, Lu- is possibly a portrait of the amorous monk’s Life of St. John the Baptist at surface. The world’s ﬁ at surface. The world’s Trinità 7 gures helped make this

nest d d n fi i . 1 0 h c - 4 than a century, the search for Gothic perfection in stone seemed almost to be than a century, 1301 sculpted hexagonal pulpit a private Pisano family race. Here Giovanni’s work of the genre, crammedoutshines father Nicola, and is the commanding p. 244. with emotional power and narrative detail. See saved it from bombardment duringsaved it from bombardment p. 348. II. See War World Sansepolcro): Piero’s dead-on geo- Piero’s Sansepolcro): and exquisitelymetric perspective modeled fi for allhaunting work the model Christ.later depictions of the risen only fres- This is quite possibly the the “bestco whose reputation as actuallypainting in the world” Giovanni Pisano’s Pisano’s Giovanni Filippo Lippi’s Masaccio’s Masaccio’s Lorenzo Ghiberti’s Ghiberti’s Lorenzo tension, hyperreal colors, and the colors, and hyperreal tension, centu- many of what beginnings become modern ries later would art. See p. 228. Francesca’s della Piero to Paradise.” See p. 121. to Paradise.” young Ghiberti won a sculpture competition to craft the doors of Florence’s to craft the doors of Florence’s young Ghiberti won a sculpture competition he completed his second and fi Fifty-one years later, Baptistery. into a Renaissance reality ofing the Gothic language of three dimensions Art historians consider that 1401 competi- invented space and narrative line. Michelangelo looked at thetion to be the founding point of the Renaissance. they would grace the entrancedoors and simply declared them “so beautiful rection of Christ restoration of this dazzling fresco cycle has at last brought the city of Prato restoration of this dazzling fresco cycle has depiction of the Lippi’s some of the recognition (and visitors) it deserves. Dance of Salome crezia Buti, and certainly one of the iconic images of the early Renaissance. See p. 236. 139 and 153. Santa Maria del Carmine, Florence): The greatest thing since Giotto. Ma- Santa Maria del Carmine, Florence): The greatest saccio not only redefi also managed to be the fi acters of intense emotion and vital energy but and create the illusionpainter to pinpoint precise mathematical perspective of depth on a fl 6

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8 THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Best Places to Escape Crowds 1 1

1 8 HIGH-SEASON CROWDS THE 0 7 W 4 W W W W W 6

6 cave tunnels.See“TheMaremma,”inchapter7. can followthem(sometimesupto1km/²⁄ Sovana. Manystretchesofthese more than7m(23ft.)deep,intothetufasurroundingPitigliano,Sorano, and sure whytheEtruscansofMaremmacarvedanetworkpassages,some the mostheavilytraffi ridges aroundPienza—aren’t south tothebalcony-like Giovanni d’Asso,andfarther Siena—past Asciano andSan winding roadssouthwestof to uswhythespectacular dotted with cypress stands. dotted withcypressstands. punctuated byfarmhousesand they survey, arollingterrain ously emptyasthelandscape all Tuscany. Theyareasglori- d’Orcia: of theCrete Senesi&Val Driving theBackRoads Roaming Etruscan“Sunken Roads” intheMaremma: Discovering Prehistoric Statue-Stele inPontrémoli: Ballooning over theChianti: Exploring theMuseoStibbert Francis St. of Life cultures, includinganentireregimentofarmoredmannequins.Seep.156. 50,000 randomitemsandahugecollectionofarmorfromallerasworld an eccentricScottish-Italianismadeupofthegeneralcluttermorethan the Lunigiana,”inchapter6. man historiansdescribedCelticwarriorsfromGaul.See“TheGarfagnana& of theabstractedfi 3000 tombstone-shaped statueswerecarvedovera3,000-yearperiodstartingabout p. 384. human emotioninawaythatparlayedhumanistphilosophyintopaint.See frescoes blendrealism,classicism,aconceptofspaceandbulk,pure artists? Whatevertheanswer(andwe’llprobablyneverknowforsure), the roadtoRenaissance.DidGiottopaintit,orwasitworkofmany shocked thepaintingworldoutofitsByzantinestuporandthrustitfulltilton indulgent pastime.Ratesstartaround240 hot-air balloonwhilehavingachampagnebreakfast?Manyoutfi countryside thanfl intuscany.com. tact 4 - c h 0 1 Ballooning inTuscany . b.c. i best n d d It’s neverreallyclear

by an extraordinarily long-lived cult isolated in the Lunigiana. Some byanextraordinarilylong-livedcultisolatedintheLunigiana.Some

8 oating lazily over the olive- and vine-covered hillsides in a oatinglazilyovertheolive-andvine-coveredhillsidesina gures bearasuggestive resemblancetohowancientRo- PLACES TO ESCAPE (BasilicadiSanFrancesco, Assisi): Thisfrescocycle cked in in cked at WhatbetterwaytoseeEurope’s mostfamous The rolling agricultural terrain oftheVal d’Orcia. (Florence): This former private museum of (Florence):Thisformerprivatemuseumof vie &

cave 338-146-2994 have survived the millennia, and you havesurvivedthemillennia,andyou ³ € mile) in what are kind of open-air mile)inwhatarekindofopen-air forasunrise1½-hourﬂ orvisitwww.ballooning These mysterious Thesemysterious No one is quite Nooneisquite ts offerthis ight. Con- 11/18/12 9:41 AM / 1 8 / 1 2

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1 4 : 9 THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Best Wines & Vineyards 9

2 1 / 8 1 . / 11/18/12 9:41 AM 0577- cantina & ( www.enotecala (Florentine-style rst DOC wine in www.poggioantico. Dante wrote of this dry, Dante wrote of this dry, orentina nd the going slow, however: slow, nd the going Villa della Rocca Villa 0577-849-211; & 0577-848-044; ( bistecca alla ﬁ Divine Comedy, & Wine bottles gathering dust in a Chianti bottles gathering dust Wine (

nd In his 0578- (www. Brunello has the smell of mossy, damp earth and of mossy, Brunello has the smell & ( Poggio Antico Poggio WINES & VINEYARDS WINES Italy’s most famous wine. Chianti is as variable as it is ver- wine. Chianti is as most famous Italy’s Enoteca La Fortezza Consorzio sh. The best pro- ” on p. 308. 9 www.gattavecchi.it). www.gattavecchi.it). Gattavecchi

). See “San Gimignano” in chapter 5. ). See “San Gimignano”

Vino,

d d n best cations. The consortium of Vernaccia producers dates back at least to producers dates back at least consortium of Vernaccia cations. The i . and much more versatile. Al- and much more versatile. 1 0 h c - 4 steak). Visit the steak). Visit 757-110; & No- See “Underground Tunnels on p. 324. ble Wine,” must choose just one winery to visit, make it this Noble Wine a more forgiving this Noble Wine vino, powerful and complex, though it’s you can drink it with just about anything but fi ducers are generally represented by the town’s consorziovinonobile.it), and if you This purple-garnet wine smells of violets and tastes of juicy red berries, dark fruits, and a hint of mossy earth. Of the tradi- musty, grape in- tional wines (no French trusions), it plays second banana to Brunello, but many people fi most powerful red, and perhaps the top wine in all of Italy. Break out this in all of Italy. most powerful red, and perhaps the top wine complex elixir to accompany a mighty musky berries. It tastes of dark, jamlike fruits and dry vanilla. This is Tuscany’s Tuscany’s of dark, jamlike fruits and dry vanilla. This is musky berries. It tastes 940-008 fortezza.com) in town to taste, browse, and buy from a vast selection of the re- fortezza.com) in town to taste, browse, and buy best bottles or gion’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: Nobile Vino Brunello di Montalcino: Chianti Classico: di San Gimignano: Vernaccia Such is the beauty of the scenery that you’ll still fi that you’ll of the scenery is the beauty Such last. as the as essential photo stop reveals another the road new bend in Every 8. See chapter white is available all over the Town of Towers. It was the fi It was Towers. of the Town white is available all over these DOCG white; see p. 43 for information on only and is Tuscany’s Italy, classifi them in town at the 1276; you can contact peppery, straw-colored white that deepens to gold with age. Tuscany’s best that deepens to gold with age. Tuscany’s straw-colored white peppery, com) for the direct sales of an award-winning boutique Brunello. See “Sam- com) for the direct sales of an award-winning pling the satile, and while there’s plenty of mass-produced cheap wine out there, the plenty of mass-produced satile, and while there’s and Sie- Classico zone, in the hills between Florence vintners of the Chianti and Premier estates abound, of the highest quality. na, craft excellent wines are highlighted in chapter 5. the top accessible ones 6

6 W W W 4 W 7 0 THE wines. 2, for information on Italian to Drink,” in chapter See “What 8 1 1 1 8 7 9 _ 4 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd 9 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd 10 4 _ 10 9 1 7

8 THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Most Absorbing Museums 1 1

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6 Tuscany. Seep.193. of GoodandBadGovernment, Simone Martini’s dazzling 1315 hall isamasterpieceoftheSieneseSchool.Foremost amongthefrescoesare rugia. Although allthe was GiorgioLungarotti,experimentingwithhisgrapesinTorgiano southofPe- a tinyDOCGzonejusttoincorporatethevineyard.Thevintnerresponsible estate wassodeliciouslydemandingofattentiontheauthoritieshadtocreate Vinci’s antiquity. Seep.130. career ofDonatello,inhistimerightlyconsideredthegreatestsculptor since seum oftheRenaissanceisaroomfullfamousworksthatsurvey the entire and Giambolognabronzes,themainattractionatprimarysculpture mu- excellent, thebestisRubescoRiservalabel.See“Perugia” inchapter10. Galleria Nazionale Galleria Palazzo Pubblico San Marco Museo NazionaledelBargello degliUffi Galleria Orvieto Classico: Sagrantino diMontefalco: Rubesco Riserva: top producers has beenrecognizedbytheDOCGclassifi tannic bite—aboutthebiggestandmostcomplexwineyou’llgetinUmbria— hospice aroundthecloisterdownstairs.Seep.143. cells upstairs,totheblockbusteraltarpiecesdisplayedinformer pilgrim’s is allhere—fromhiscycleofintimate,contemplativefrescoesinthe monks’ cision. Ifyou’renotfamiliarwithhiswork,it’s probablybecausethebestofit artist Fra’ Angelico, who paintedwithdelicatebeautyandmathematicalpre- 950-113 ter 11. ter 11. as that demandsgallonsofdrywhitetablewines.Try smallerproducerssuch boccato the daysofEtruscans.InOrvietoitself,youcangettraditional of histeacher, PierodellaFrancesca, the ruginos thanitknowswhattodo with.Italsohasoneofthemasterpieces draining .butworthit.Seep.122. ily. nissanti houses someoftheseminalworksRenaissance,includingGiotto’s ( 4 & - c h Few roomsgobywithoutthreeorfourmasterpieces.Thoroughlybrain- Decugnano deiBarbi 0 0742-350-359 1 . i most n Annunciation, d variety, ajuicy, semisweetversionhardtofi

Maestà, d

). See“Orvieto’s LiquidGold,”onp.429.

1 0 (Florence):Theentireplaceisthe Antonelli Botticelli’s zi This unique and elegant Umbrian wine made by a single ThisuniqueandelegantUmbrianwinemadebyasingle (Siena):TheMuseoCivicoinsideSiena’s medievaltown Orvieto’s whiteisanancientwine,madeatleastsince ) inSanMarcodiMontefalco.See“Montefalco”chap- (Perugia): Umbria’s NationalGalleryboastsmorePe- (Florence):Oneoftheworld’s topmuseums,theUfﬁ andMichelangelo’s onlypanelpainting,the ABSORBING Cantine Lungarotti ( Birth ofVenus ( & This dark wine with a rounded mouth feel and Thisdarkwinewitharoundedmouthfeeland & the most important civic paintings of medieval themostimportantcivicpaintings ofmedieval 0742-791-5852 0763-308-255 (Florence):Past earlyMichelangelomarbles Maestà and Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s and Polyptych ofSant’Antonio, cations. You cangetatasteat ( Allegory ofSpring, & magnum opus ) and ) and 075-988-0294 nd elsewhereinthisage Barberani Cantina A. FongoliCantina A. of Dominican ofDominican Leonardo da Leonardoda ( ) wines are ) winesare Holy Fam- & Allegories Allegories with its withits 0744- Og- ab- 11/18/12 9:41 AM zi zi / 1 8

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1 4 : 11 THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA The Best Luxury Accommodations 9

2 1 / 8 1 / 11/18/12 9:41 AM oor Shadow of the and fascinating tumuli cially rated as luxury hotels, but all offer Porta all’Arco gate, from which worn basalt all’Arco gate, Porta dining are just a few of the earthly delightsnest ): There was never really any doubt, when the): There was never really any doubt, when b.c. (Borgo Pinti 99, Florence; www.fourseasons.com/ the valley ﬂ nds from the dozens of tombs littering ETRUSCAN SIGHTS ETRUSCAN LUXURY LUXURY 055-2626-250 Once an important Etruscan ironmaking center, the coastal Etruscan ironmaking center, Once an important 1 1 To really get a feel for life and death in the Etruscan Age, visit the in the Etruscan really get a feel for life and death To

One of Dodecapolis’s ancient centers, Volterra has a medieval core has a medieval Volterra ancient centers, One of Dodecapolis’s

Orvieto, Etruria’s ancient religious center, contains three archaeo- contains three ancient religious center, Orvieto, Etruria’s a tiny bronze youth of elongated grace. See chapter 5. a tiny bronze youth of d The small but well-regarded archaeological museum here contains The small but well-regarded archaeological d nd here. See p. 91. n best best best i . 1 0 h c - orence; 4 logical museums. Taken together, they make up one of the best collections of together, logical museums. Taken only accessible tomb Umbria’s Etruscan artifacts outside Florence and include Etrusco-Roman period. Thepaintings, now detached, and works from the parts caverns under the city, town also runs tours of some of the tunnels and were carved by the Etruscans.of which, including wells and a possible temple, walls is a tidy suburban-like necropolis of tombs, Around the edge of the city’s See “Orvieto,” in chapter 11. some still with inscriptions on the door lintels. between the town and small Lake Chiusi. The town’s underground Etrus- The town’s between the town and small Lake Chiusi. are also visitable on a daily can tunnels, known as the Labirinto di Porsenna, Sarteano,” in chapter 8. See “Chiusi & guided tour. just some of the many fi fl Palazzo della Gherardesca reopened in 2009 as the Four Seasons Firenze af- in 2009 as the Four della Gherardesca reopened Palazzo to be the most luxuriouster a 7-year restoration project—this was destined Original frescoes on the 15th-century walls, sumptuous address in Tuscany. fi and some of the city’s decor, you’ll fi Four Seasons Florence Four Chiusi: Orvieto: Sarteano: Populonia: Annunciation scene of remarkable depth. Duccio, Arnolfo di Cambio, Fra’ An- Cambio, Fra’ Arnolfo di Duccio, depth. of remarkable scene Annunciation See p. 368. the collections. add to da Fabriano and Gentile gelico, Volterra: tiny Tomba della Quadriga Infernale just outside town, whose ancient fres- della Quadriga Infernale tiny Tomba a de- art look like a recent paint job. Only unearthed coes make Renaissance remains was painted 300 years before Christ and cade ago, the unique tomb 8. to Sarteano,” in chapter “A Side Trip remarkably intact. See still surrounded in places by the old Etruscan city walls. The best section en- Etruscan city walls. in places by the old still surrounded the 4th-century- compasses tombs in necropolises dotting either side of the road leading to Populonia’s dotting either side of the road leading to Populonia’s tombs in necropolises ever found beside the sea. still the only Etruscan burial coast It’s promontory. Coast,” in chapter 7. See “Livorno & the Etruscan settlement of Populonia today retains some excellent today retains some excellent settlement of Populonia gods’ heads gaze mutely but protectively over the valley. The Museo Etrusco The Museo gaze mutely but protectively over the valley. heads gods’ hundreds of funerary caskets and the Guarnacci here houses Evening, 6

6 W W W W 4 W W 7 0 THE Not all the places to stay below are ofﬁ luxurious accommodations and amenities. THE ACCOMMODATIONS 8 1 1 1 8 7 9 _ 4 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd 11 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd 12 4 _ 12 9 1 7

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1 8 Giant oakcasksusedto agechiantiwineatVilla Vignamaggio. 0 7 4 W W W W 6

6 Fonte Cesia Hotelito Lupaia Villa Vignamaggio & Helvetia &Bristol p. 88. Tornabuoni, couldhardlybebetterforashopping-andculture-fueledvisit.See breakfast room.Thelocation,oppositetheStrozziandafewpacesfromVia de’ Winter Gardenbar, withtrailing ivyandasplashingfountain,doublesasthe ude anopulentturn-of-the-20th-centuryair. Thebrightandrefreshingsmall city’s leadinghotelinthe19thcentury, andguestroomsloungesstillex- ideal spotforalazylunchinthesun.Seep.318. strong colorspermeatealltheindividuallydesignedunits,andpoolis and Montefollonicosuccessfullycombinesthetwo.Bohemiandecor luxe, butthis“littlehotel”envelopedinaruralidyllbetweenMontepulciano 668-028 buying trip.Seep.180. tary bottlesoftheestate’s award-winningvintage.It’s thebestbaseforawine- the propertyandcomeoutfi in thevilla.Mostsuitesarepeasantstoneoutbuildingsscatteredacross of theChianti.Infact,MonaLisawhosatforhisfamousportraitgrewup schemes intheminisuitesofthis 854-661 Wassily chairs.Seep.423. antique piecesormoderndesign,suchasEmpire-styledesksanddressers is fortakingbreakfast.Thesuitesareeachthemedanddecoratedwithfi rooms arefi 3737 4 - c h 055-26-651 0 1 . i ): Thishotelmelds13th-century n d d

): SouthernTuscany generallydoesrusticwaybetterthanit ): LeonardodaVinci mighthaveapprovedofthesaturatedcolor

1 lled with brick vaulting, and the huge terrace, planted with palms, lled withbrickvaulting,andthehugeterrace,plantedpalms, 2 (Via Lorenzo Leonj3,Todi; www.fontecesia.it; ): ThismostcentralofFlorence’s luxuryaddresseswasthe (Loc.Lupaia74,Torrita diSiena;www.lupaia.com; (Via deiPescioni 2,Florence;www.royaldemeure.com; (nearGreveinChianti;www.vignamaggio.com; tted withminibars, satelliteTVs,andcomplimen- agriturismo palazzo (working farm) high in the hills (workingfarm)highinthehills and modern lines. The public andmodernlines.Thepublic & 075-894- & & 0578- 055- ne ne 11/18/12 9:41 AM / 1 8 / 1 2

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2 1 / 8 1 / 11/18/12 9:41 AM 055- ori.it; -hotel. (pistac- & e center. center. e sh right along agriturismo means more than Perugia is the home Perugia for free, with a drink . Can it get any better oors, and cream wallsoors, € aperitivo ng of garlic, rosemary, and of garlic, rosemary, ng where Dante stayed during pizzette, nd the freshest fi avors explode on the tongue. See palazzo Ice cream was invented (probably) in Take a suckling pig, debone, roll, spit, Take You’ll fi You’ll These days taste like they’ve been made with nuts plucked oor double with views of the city’s towers. See oor double with views of the city’s gelaterie. re, with a generous stuffi re, EATING EXPERIENCES EATING MODERATELY PRICED PRICED MODERATELY (nocciola) ): This is central San Gimignano’s best hotel, set in a re- best hotel, set ): This is central San Gimignano’s ): Hiding amid the olive groves just north of Tuscany’s most groves just north of Tuscany’s ): Hiding amid the olive (Via dei Servi 40, Florence; www.residencehilda.it; Florence; www.residencehilda.it; dei Servi 40, (Via avors on offer throughout the region. The pistachio avors (Via San Matteo 87, San Gimignano; www.anticopozzo.com; www.anticopozzo.com; San Matteo 87, San Gimignano; (Via (Via di Bigiano e Castel Bovani 39, Pistoia; www.villadefi di Bigiano e Castel Bovani (Via 3 1

): Step off the Renaissance square of Santissima Annunziata right of Santissima the Renaissance square ): Step off

d d n best best i . and hazelnut 1 0 nger food, pasta, salads, cured meats, and 0577-942-014 0573-450-351 and the breakfast buffet (served in the countryned, yesteryear atmosphere, h c - 4 stored 15th-century palace built into the stored 15th-century palace his diplomatic visit to town. Inquisition trials are no longer held here, but town. Inquisition trials are no longer held his diplomatic visit to junior suite with a canopied bed or 17th-centuryyou can get an enormous top-fl frescoed ceilings, or a p. 219. 288-021 clean, contemporary building, where century at this apartment into the 21st Add hotel modern conveniences. by high-quality design is complemented stripped-wood fl those cool, airy spaces, amenities to and fabrics, then throw in a management team who can’t do enough to help in a management team who can’t and fabrics, then throw pack- just about the perfect Florence accommodations you out, and you have the Duomo? See p. 96. just 2 blocks from it’s age. Oh, and did we mention of Baci chocolates, those sweet, velvety “kisses” with a hazelnut truffl of Baci chocolates, those sweet, velvety “kisses” See p. 378. a chocolate buffet. Seriously. factory tour includes The Perugina underrated little city is this former grand residence turned underrated little city is The place’s rustic charm remains intact—few pieces of antique furniture prop- The place’s that this was once the huberly match, and there are reminders everywhere runs the hotel only adds to theof a working estate. The friendly family that refi See p. 245. kitchen) is one of the best in all Tuscany. Eating Seafood by the Seashore: by Eating Seafood Death by Chocolate on the Perugina Factory Tour: on the Perugina Factory Chocolate Death by Style: Tuscan Aperitivo, Enjoying Indulging in the World’s Best Gelato: Best Indulging in the World’s Sandwich: Sampling the Porchetta Villa de’ Fiori Villa & L’Antico Pozzo L’Antico & Residence Hilda Residence and roast over a wood fi at most weekly markets; see chapters 5 to 11. Available than this? Tuscany’s coast, but in the port city of Livorno, on the mainland, and the is- Tuscany’s it counts as the major attraction Portoferraio, main settlement, land of Elba’s straight from the tree, and the zesty fruit fl chio) best p. 106 for the planet’s Florence in the 16th century, and today it’s impossible to resist the addictive, and today it’s Florence in the 16th century, luscious gelato fl just a pre-dinner drink—bars in Siena, Pisa, and Florence offer rich buffetsjust a pre-dinner drink—bars in Siena, Pisa, of fi (usually between 6 and 8pm). See chapters 4 and 7. fennel. Then carve and serve on a crusty roll for 2.50 fennel. Then carve and serve on a crusty roll 6

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6 strictly local and seasonal menu is strictly localand seasonal menuis cuisine andstuffywaitstaff:The ny’s best.Justdon’t expecthaute dining roomisalsooneofTusca- smallest SlowTravel–endorsed smile. Seep.287. simply cooked,andservedwitha it’s guaranteedto betasty, fresh, catch alonedeterminesthat—but actly whatwillbeonthemenu— room. It’s impossible topredictex- haps justedgeitforthisdining seafood restaurants,buttheattentivewaitstaffandapropertablecloth per- almost impossibletopicka“best”fromamongLivorno’s cropofgreatvalue well asthisbuzzingenoteca-osteria(winebar).Serviceisinformal,evenlaid- ilsantobevitore.com): Few placestypifythenewFlorentineLeftBankvibeas town. Seep.112. take onTuscan foodveryseriouslyindeed.Thewinelistisoneofthebestin back, buttheytaketheingredientsthatmakeuptheirrefreshinglymodern La Tana delBrilloParlante Osteria delMare & Antica Locanda diSesto Il Santo Bevitore Cibrèo Dining ataSouthernTuscan Grill: Etruscan Coast”and“Elba”inchapter7. mixed fi calà allaLivornese in town.Specialtiesinclude Cinta Senese breed of pig. See chapter 8. Cinta Senesebreedofpig.Seechapter8. out especiallyforbeefsourcedfromwhiteChianinacattleandporkthe cooked plainandsimpleonthefl tion, butthewaitisinvariablyworthit.Seep.108. and plentyofpeperoncinoforspice. You mayhavetowaitevenwithareserva- standard byservingnopastaandlittlegrilledmeat—withinnovativetouches after yearsatthetop.ThedishesareTuscan atheart—thoughtheybuckthe of thisrestaurantbeliesitsstatusasonethecity’s fi edizioniteatrodelsalecibreofi ittima; colo Ciambellano4,MassaMar- from Lucca.Seep.262. from theownerfamily’s nearbyfarm.Park rightoutsideorridethebusnorth premises, anddishesrelyonseasonalforagedingredients,orproduce you’ll eatatthisroadsideinnintheSerchiovalleyisfreshlymadeon liberal useofingredientslike part ofTuscany isquitedifferenttothatelsewhereintheregion,makingmore 4 - c h 0583-578-181; 0 1 . i best n d & sh soup-stewsimilartoMarseille’s d (Via Andrea delVerrocchio 8r, Florence;

0566-901-274 1 4 (Via SantoSpirito 66r, Florence; (BorgoCappuccini12,Livorno; (saltcodstewedwithtomatoes),and RESTAURANTS www.anticalocandadisesto.it): Thefoodinthenorthern ): Italy’s renze.it): Theamalgamatedcountry-styledecor (Via Ludovica 1660,SestodiMoriano,Lucca; fritto misto (Vi- farro amegrill rightacrosssouthernTuscany. Look (emmer) and Sorano beans. Everything (emmer)andSoranobeans.Everything They like their meat properly reared and Theyliketheirmeatproperlyrearedand Antipasti, aclassic Tuscan appetizer. (amixedfryoftoday’s catches), bouillabaisse. & & & 055-234-1100; 055-211-264; 0586-881-027 nest kitchens,even See “Livorno & the See“Livorno&the cacciucco, a spicy aspicy www. www. ): It’s bac- 11/18/12 9:41 AM / 1 8 / 1 2

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8 1 / 11/18/12 9:41 AM pasta www. www.fonte 0577-849-200; 0575-612-679; & & 0578-717-086; & www.zaira.it): Chiusi has www.zaira.it): 075-812-317; & oats across your table; when it’s warm oats across your table; when it’s 0578-20-260; by weight, wash it down with house red & (Loc. i Poggi, Montalcino; (Loc. i Poggi, amegrill takes center stage right across southern amegrill takes center orentina (Loc. San Martino 370, Cortona; (Via del Teatro 22, Montepulciano; del Teatro (Via —ziti, ham, and three cheeses baked in a ceramic bowl until a—ziti, ham, and three cheeses baked in a ceramic chef spearheading the kitchen. Surrounded by vines that pro- chef spearheading the kitchen. Surrounded bistecca alla ﬁ 5 1

(Via Eremo delle Carceri 24, Assisi; Eremo delle Carceri 24, (Via

ned food in this part of Tuscany, where everything from the bread- ned food in this part of Tuscany, d d n i (Via Arunte 12, Chiusi; (Via . 1 0 h c - re over which grilled meats sizzle. At the long wooden communal tables (andAt the long wooden communal tables re over which grilled meats sizzle. 4 www.ilfalconiere.it): The food and service are impeccable, and the atmo- The food and service are impeccable, www.ilfalconiere.it): sphere sophisticated. Classical music fl The chefs take over for Vivaldi. and the tables are set on the lawn, crickets by the owners themselves,marry the best fresh ingredients, many cultivated in Tus- recipes to make this one of the most popular restaurants with Tuscan the foodies who know which turnoff leads to this culinary hide- Follow cany. See p. 359. away. sticks to the dessert is homemade. See p. 311. www.poggioantico.com): The cheap, old trattoria on this famous wine estate The cheap, old trattoria on this famous www.poggioantico.com): interior and a talentedshocked many when it reopened with a new minimalist nuova cucina the region, you can dine on theduce some of the silkiest Brunello wines in most refi La Stalla Zaira Il Falconiere Relais Ristorante di Poggio Antico Ristorante prepared with skill, and delivered with rustic informality at a price that will delivered with rustic informality at a price prepared with skill, and See p. 299. make you glow. Acquacheta drunk from a beaker, and soak up the experience. See p. 327. and drunk from a beaker, acquacheta.eu): The open fl acquacheta.eu): The open cellar quintessential nowhere more than here at Montepulciano’s Tuscany, and atables, one set of cutlery to last the whole meal, steakhouse. Cramped charm.armed with his meat cleaver are all part of the chef doing the rounds Order your maggio.it): This is the quintessential countryside trattoria, the sort of placemaggio.it): This is the quintessential countryside for monthly reunions. The lowwhere scattered Italian families get together ceilings are black with centuries of wood smoke that has poured from the open fi outdoors in summer), you can wash down a platter of homemade pasta and another of grilled lamb with copious quantities of the house red. See p. 393. several good informal spots, but this one just edges out the others for its several good informal spots, but this one just del lucumone ancient wine cellars you cancrunchy brown crust forms—and for the moldy tour after your meal. See p. 333. 6

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