1 TTHEHE BBESTEST OOFF FFLORENCE,LORENCE, TTUSCANYUSCANY & UUMBRIAMBRIA COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd4_9781118074664-ch01.indd 1 11/18/12/18/12 99:41:41 AMAM s the cradle of the Renaissance, Tuscany and 1 Umbria boast some of the world’s most mesmeriz- ing art and architecture, from the sublime work of Michelangelo, Botticelli, and Piero della Francesca, Ato gorgeous hill towns and the majestic palazzi of Florence. Yet the region isn’t all medieval churches and galler- Introduction ies. This is a land of lush landscapes, the snowcapped Apennine mountains, and olive groves and vineyards that produce rich oils and justly famous wines. The region’s famed sunshine makes Elba’s beaches some of the most enticing in Europe, and its modern fes- tivals in Spoleto and Perugia are giant outdoor parties. Sightseeing The artistic treasures of Florence have been stupefying visitors for hundreds of years; its showstopping Duomo, Galleria dell’Accademia, and Uffi zi are world-class attractions. The picturesque streets of Siena and San Gimignano drip with medieval history, while Pisa’s Leaning Tower is a mind- blowing sight. Don’t overlook Umbria, with the Basilica di San Francesco in Assisi and Galleria Nazionale in cosmopolitan Perugia. Farther south, soak up the exuberant facade of Orvieto’s cathedral. Eating & Drinking Eating is a real joy in Tuscany and Umbria, whether you dine in one of the fi ne osterias of Florence, or just grab a crisp, fatty porchetta sandwich at an Umbrian farmers’ market. Try the olive oil here—it’s like sip- THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA OF FLORENCE, THE BEST ping liquidized olives straight off the tree—and sample the mouthwatering gelato in Florence, Baci chocolates in Perugia, and Prato’s crunchy cantucci. Then there’s the wine: not just the Chianti, but the rich Brunellos of Montalcino, the Sagrantinos of Montefalco, and subtle whites of Orvieto. History Central Italy’s complex recorded history begins with the Etruscans, a heritage best explored today in the hill towns of Volterra and Chiusi, and at exceptional museums in Cortona and Orvieto. The big names of the Tuscan Middle Ages are commemorated at dedicated museums in Caprese (Michelangelo), Vinci (Leonardo da Vinci), and Florence (Dante). The is- land of Elba harbors sights associated with Napoleon Bonaparte, dating from his exile there in 1814. Arts & Culture While the artistic delights of Renaissance Florence often domi- nate itineraries of the region, make time for the preserved medieval gems of Siena, especially its Gothic Palazzo Pubblico and Duomo. The genius of Giotto is on full display in the basilica at Assisi, while the legacy of Piero della Francesca is preserved in Arezzo’s San Francesco church and a fi ne museum in Sansepolcro. The region’s contemporary culture is best represented by the eclectic Spoleto Festival and Perugia’s annual jazz fest. PREVIOUS PAGE: Florence’s Duomo. 2 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd4_9781118074664-ch01.indd 2 11/18/12/18/12 99:41:41 AMAM THE most UNFORGETTABLE 1 TRAVEL EXPERIENCES THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA OF FLORENCE, THE BEST W A Crash Course in Painting, Sculpture & Architecture: Tuscany and Um- bria are stuffed with the planet’s best art and architecture—from frescoed chapels to giant civic paintings that date back 700 years—and every turn of the corner reveals a new wonder in paint or stone. If you’ve ever had any curi- osity about what it all means, you’ve just landed in the best place in the world to learn. W Hiking the Hills of Florence: The walk from Florence up to Fiesole is fa- mous enough to earn a scene in the movie adaptation of E. M. Forster’s A Room with a View (even if they cheated and took carriages). But don’t neglect the hills of San Miniato and Bellosguardo that rise south of the Arno; the views over the city here are closer at hand, and the land is less developed. For more on Fiesole, see chapter 4. W Biking Lucca’s Walls: The elegant Republic of Lucca is still snuggled com- fortably behind its 16th-century walls, ramparts so thick they were able to be converted into a narrow city park—a tree-lined promenade running a 5km (3-mile) loop around the city rooftops. The bicycle is the preferred mode of transportation in Lucca, and you’ll be in good company as you tool under the shade past parents pushing strollers, businessmen walking their dogs, and old men at picnic tables in their 40th year of a never-ending card game. See “Cir- cumnavigating the Walls,” in chapter 6. Experiences Travel Unforgettable Most The W An Evening Stroll in Perugia: Perugia’s wide Corso Vannucci is perfect for the early-evening stroll Italians everywhere turn out for—the passeggiata. It’s the time to see and be seen, to promenade arm in arm with your best friend dressed in your best duds. The crowd fl ows up the street to one piazza and Cycling is the best way to tour Lucca. 3 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd4_9781118074664-ch01.indd 3 11/18/12/18/12 99:41:41 AMAM then turns around and saunters back down to the other end. When you tire of 1 meandering, take a break to sip cappuccino and nibble Perugia’s fi ne choco- lates in one of the classy cafes lining the street. See “Perugia” in chapter 10. W Going Off the Beaten Path in Assisi: Who would’ve thought you could fi nd a primal Umbrian country experience in overtouristed Assisi? Save the basili- ca’s frescoes for the afternoon and get up early to hike into the wooded moun- tains of Monte Subasio to St. Francis’s old hermitage. After a morning spent in contemplation with the monks and wandering the state parkland, head back to Assisi, but be sure to stop a mile outside town for a big lunch at La Stalla, one of the best countryside trattorie in central Italy. See “Assisi” in chapter 10. THE most CHARMING HILL The Most Charming Hill Towns Most The TOWNS W San Gimignano: The “Medieval Manhattan” bristles with more than a doz- en tall stone towers, all slightly askew. It wins the “Most Densely Decorated Church” award for its old Duomo, whose interior walls are slathered with 15th-century frescoes. San Gimignano’s skyline and back alleys, especially when moonlit, make it one of Italy’s most atmospheric hill towns. Stay until all the tour buses have left, when you’ll have the gardens and small piazze all to yourself. See “San Gimignano,” in chapter 5. W Volterra: Proud Volterra has been important in western Tuscany since the Etruscan era. From its magnifi cent rocky promontory, the ocher city surveys the sometimes wild, vast countryside surrounding it. Volterra is full of work- shops where artisans craft the native alabaster into translucent souvenirs. See “Volterra,” in chapter 5. THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA OF FLORENCE, THE BEST Shopping in San Gimignano. 4 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd4_9781118074664-ch01.indd 4 11/18/12/18/12 99:41:41 AMAM W Cortona: This stony hill town is no longer big enough to fi ll its 1 medieval walls, but it still has its museums of paintings by Fra’ An- TUSCANY & UMBRIA OF FLORENCE, THE BEST gelico and local boys Luca Signo- relli and Pietro da Cortona. The restaurants serve steak from the famed Chianina cattle, raised in the valley below, where Etruscan tombs hint at the city’s importance in a pre-Caesar Tuscany. See “Cor- tona,” in chapter 9. W Gubbio: This ancient Umbrian stronghold is like the last outpost of civilization before the wilder- ness of the high Apennines. The central piazza cantilevers over the lower town like a huge terrace. The square is bounded on one end by a mighty palace, all sharp stone lines and squared-off battlements. Santa Maria della Consolazione in Todi. Inside is a cluttered archaeological museum and the same echoey medieval atmosphere that pervades the entire The Best Festivals Best The town. See “Gubbio,” in chapter 10. W Todi: Umbria’s most picturesque hill town somehow avoids most of the tourists. Many of its streets are so steep they’ve been chipped with shallow staircases down the middle. Vistas across the valley open up unexpectedly, and on the perfectly proportioned medieval main piazza is a town hall sprout- ing a staircase perfect for an Errol Flynn sword-fi ght scene. See “Todi,” in chapter 11. THE best FESTIVALS W Florence’s Calcio Storico: First, divide the city into its traditional neighbor- hoods for teams, cover Piazza Santa Croce with dirt, and don Renaissance costumes. Next, combine two parts soccer, one part rugby, one part (Ameri- can) football, and a heaping helping of ice-hockey attitude. Give the winners a whole calf to roast in the streets and write it all off in honor of St. John the Baptist. See the “Calendar of Events,” in chapter 2. W Siena’s Palio: Almost anything goes at this bareback, breakneck horse race around the dirt-packed Campo, and the competitive contrade (neighborhood wards) usually make sure everything does. The square is fi lled with costumed pageantry before the race, and massive feasts are set up on long outdoor ta- bles that can stretch for blocks on the medieval side streets. See “Siena” in chapter 5. W Arezzo’s Giostra del Saracino: Arezzo really comes alive for this Renais- sance titling tournament where the target at which mounted jousters aim their lances swivels around and can actually hit back. See “Arezzo” in chapter 9. 5 004_9781118074664-ch01.indd4_9781118074664-ch01.indd 5 11/18/12/18/12 99:41:41 AMAM 1 The Greatest Museum Masterpieces Greatest The Siena’s Palio.