THE EAST COAST lingering incafésorexploringtheregion’s museums andarchitecture. spentmoochingaroundvineyards, drive youoffthebeaches,lazydayscanbecheerfully Baystrainundertheweightoftonnesgrapes.and Hawkes Iftheweatherconspires to Maori languageand theydoforthetouristsinRotorua,butyoucanbeassured(flax ballsonstrings)like that only placeinthecountrywhere exquisitely carved slap-up mealisnever farawayintheurbaneconfinesofGisborneandNapier. wilderness ofTe Urewera NationalPark. Whentheferal urge wanes,adecentcoffee anda Hwy, onthebackroadsandobscure beachesof Central Bay,orinthemystical Hawkes experiencesthatanyonewithapassionforcultureof authenticKiwi willfindfascinating. streets, theEastCoastcondensesawiderange prosperous,wine-stained to Havelock North’s it’s thesociological contoursthatare mostpronounced.Fromtheremote villagesofEastCape ofwildlydivergent isknownforitsjuxtaposition landscapesbutinthis region The Coast East 362 and Starbucks outlets combined. The locals may not be wearing flax skirts andswinging and Starbucksoutletscombined.The localsmaynotbewearingflaxskirts © LonelyPlanetPublications „ While youare here. guaranteed acold beerinanyofthelocalpubs,wineisking Gisborne Authentic Maoriculture isnever more visible thanontheEastCoast.It’sprobably If you’re you’llquicklylosethetouristhordesalongPacific theintrepid sort, Coast

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE: 07 &06 Searchingforwoodnymphsamongst the Beach-hopping betweensecludedgems Meetingwith Maoriculture inthe hidden Avoiding being thedesignated driver as Time warpingtothe1930samidst Art- vineyards retum magical forest pathsof Bay such as Urewera NationalPark nooks of of you embarkonagrandwinetastingtour ings Deco delightsof ( p390), Gisborne (p367), ( p390) (p371) Mangakuri Maraehako Bay Anarua Bay 32) or ( p372) Napier tikanga and (opposite) and Hawkes Bay Aramoana Eastwoodhill Arbo- , ( p377) 33) and ( p383) (p366), Waimarama (practices) are (practices) alive andwell. „ www.hawkesbaynz.com Tokomaru Te Te ( p396) ( p392) Hast- marae ( p59 ) outnumberMcDonalds,KFC National Park Hastings Aramoana Hawkes Bay Mangakuri Napier Waimarama Ocean Beach Maraehako Bay „ www.gisbornenz.com Eastwoodhill Gisborne Anarua Bay East Cape poi

suns itself inmild,drygrape-growing con- suns itself 5°C inwinter. TheHawkes region Bay also Gisborne nudge 25°C,rarely dippingbelow Summer temperatures aroundNapierand Coastbasksinawarm,dryclimate.The East Climate lonelyplanet.com tic shores strewn withdriftwoodandpunc- some stupendousviews:bleak,postapocalyp- that tookdecadestosculpt.Thedrive presents asphalt Hwy (SH35),330kmof curvilinear forming theCape’s jagged spine. Range rior remains wild,withtheRaukumara owners goabout Theinte- their dailyaffairs. tethered horses to see bytheroadsideastheir life isrurallywound-down.It’snotunusual and else toknoweveryone seems everyone flood of had Britishsettlers moderated. been vested of theirlandinthe19thcenturyand iftheMaoribeen weren’t sovigorouslydi- fascinating illustrationof have whatmight bay hidingaremote life isattheforefront here, witheach stunning geous, detached Maori Cape. East community Nowhere inNZisremotely else like thegor- (p380). Park ( Cape East right ) andTe Urewera National Transport ismuch more limited around and Waipukurauwithallthemaincentres. necting Gisborne,,Napier,Hastings and alsoNapier to Hamilton. to Hamilton, , RotoruaandNapier, from . SunairconnectsGisborne Auckland andWellington,alsotoNapier Napier. fliestobothfrom AirNewZealand The region’s onlyairports are inGisborneand around the Cape. ofout sections thePacific CoastHwy(SH35) 800mm. Heavy downpours sometimeswash ditions, withanaverage annualrainfallof ES CAPE EAST Getting There&Around Lining thecoastlineisPacific Coast plySH2andSH5,con- Regular busservices The paceof life ismarkedly slowerhere – % Bay,justbeforeto Hicks EastCape itself,is The telephone east area codefromOpotiki TELEPHONE CODES 07. The rest of theregion is EAST CAPE••Pacific EAST CoastHwy marae andvillage. It’sa % 06. between Opotiki and Hicks Bay ($40,three OpotikiandHicksBay between despair. Theshorter Opotiki route between the entire roadthistimearound,don’t coastal along theway.Ifyou haven’t gottimetoenjoy it more ifyousplitupthejourney andlinger can bedoneinasolid sixhours, you’llenjoy route butthat’shardlythepoint.Whileit not goingtoget anywhere quicklyonthis around thecountry’seastern fringe. You’re SH35asitloopsbeat thecoast-hugging NZ’s not short onawesome drives, butfew PACIFIC COASTHWY from Taupo or . four-day As’ ‘East backpacker busleaving $340) 9830; www.kiwiexperience.com; 2pm fromGisborne,Monday to Saturday). route ($40, 3½hours, 7.30amfromHicksBay, Cook’s Couriers 1pmfromGisborne,MondaytoFriday). Bay, Gisborne ($40,3½hours, 6.30amfromHicks Couriers MondaytoFriday). Bay, hours, 2pmfromOpotiki,6.30amHicks Opotiki withGisbornevia Hicks Bay. cially onweekends, butcouriers regularly link canbeponderous,espe- Cape around East Unless you’re transport behindthewheel, crimson with pohutukawa blooms. gorges,steep whilethesummerseashore turns green. rivers Clearmountain surge through shiftstomisty slopesandeverything on craggy atothertimescloudsbrood mering turquoise; Gtig Around Getting the weather. isshim- Onsunnydaysthesea tured withtinyinletsthatchange aspectwith An alternative is Couriers Coastal View sion Concert ( sion Concert p386 ) ings ( p386 ) Go green the Reef Tackiest tourist attraction Festival Swim at Watch Listen to Read Eat THE EAST COAST FACTS Pacific (p366) CoastMacadamias Macadamia and manuka honeyicecream at andmanuka Macadamia

WitiIhimaera’s ( % statue( p383 ) Whale Rider Art-Deco Weekend inNapierandHast- Weekend Art-Deco Tokomaru Bay( p367 ) AnagingmegastarattheannualMis- KnapdaleEcoLodge( p374 ) 06-864 4728) ( % (2002), then take thetour( (2002),thentake p373 ) 06-864 4711) Bulibasha Kiwi Experience Experience Kiwi continuesfromhere to

( % (1994) Napier’s covers thesame 06-864 4654) Polly’s Passenger , which runsthe Pania of ( % runs

09-366

363 THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Ὀ Ὀ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ

THE EAST COAST g the petrol tank and stockuponsnacks and the petrol tank or Gisbornei-SITE. Don’tforget tofill up Pacific Coast Hwy orchards and vineyards. Gorge before spillingoutintopicturesque native bushalongthestunning and Gisborne(144km)followsSH2 through 364 Forest Park Norsewood Dannevirke Mamaku

5 Ruahine 2

THE EASTCOAST Taupo Lake 1 River 29 Rotorua Before youhittheroad,collect thefreeBefore

Taupo

ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲ 2 (194km) To

Kaweka Range Kaweka Airport Taupo Takapau Taruarau Tauranga Rotorua

Waik ATCP • Pcfc os w CAPE••PacificEAST Coast Hwy Lake Ongaonga 30 Mangaorapa Mt Maunganui

Kuripapango

Tikokino a

t Tauranga Airport

Ngaruroro Rv Ngaruroro ὈὈ ὈὈ o ὈὈ Mt MaunganuiBeach

Ahimanawa Range Ahimanawa Rv

(1724m) Kaweka J 5

River Airfield Rotorua Otamauri Forest Park Kaweka Tarawera Rotoiti

Rangitaiki Rv Beach Ripia River Ripia Lake 33

Lake

Kaingaroa Tutaekuri River Tutaekuri ᝲᝲ ᝲ See LakeWaikaremoana Forest 50 Te Pohue Wanstead (305m) Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipukakapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu 5 Motiti Island Waipukurau White PineBush Rotoehu Porangahau Waipawa Omahu Forest Flaxmere Cape Turnagain Tarawera Scenic Reserve Otane Pukehina Beach Hastings Track Map(p380) 2 Tarawera Pukehou Haroto Te booklet fromthe Opotiki Forest Whirinaki 38 Eskdale Tutira Airport Napier Peak (399m) Lake 2 Edgecumbe Te Mata 30 Boundary Beach Blackhead

Forest Park Whirinaki Rv Kawerau Clive Minginui Reserve Stream Aramoana Beach ᝲ Te Whaiti Pourerere Taradale Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Opouahi ScenicReserve Bay View Havelock North Mangakuri Beach Tutira Napier Waikaremoana Kairakau Beach Whakatane Tangoio Haumoana Putorino Tangoio FallsScenicReserve Clifton National Park

Te Urewera Waimarama

Waimarama Beach Waipatiki ScenicReserve Ocean Beach Marine Reserve Te Angiangi River Whakatane Ocean Beach Airfield Whakatane Lake Waioeka Gorge Scenic Reserve (Whale Island) Motuhora Arapaoanui Rv Huiarau Range Waikari Rv Cape Kidnappers Map (p378) See HawkesBay Bay ofPlenty (1366m) Beach Ohope Aniwaniwa Opotiki Mohaka (WhiteIsland) Te Reinga Marumaru Whakaari

Wairoa

Beach Waiotahi

e ka Wa River

Falls io Hang Rv

Wairata ὈὈ ὈὈ Urutawa

Whakaki Rd Coach a Forest

Frasertown

Rockslide

Hawke Bay 2

Lagoon Rere Falls Hangaroa r Old Motu Old

36 o ᝲᝲ

a Opape Gentle Annie Rere Te Reinga River Torere Toatoa Whakaari (White Island; p357 ), achain- The first legoffers hazyviews across to you’ll find them. so spread out,we’ve listed theminthe order the way.As andeatingoptionsare sleeping groceries asretailers are inshort supplyalong Opotiki toTe Kaha Whanarua Bay Matawai Hill Motu Nuhaka Hawai Doneraille Park 35 Morere State Forest Mahia Beach Eastwoodhill

Arboretum

Whangaparaoa Bay Motu S OUTHPACIF

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Cape Runaway Ri

v K r

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Maraehako Bay

Te Karaka Mahunga Beach u Mangawhio Lagoon 2 Mahia Bartletts O CEAN Mahia Peninsula

Waipaoa Ὀ R Ormond

v Nick's Head Young Gisborne Table Cape Access Rd Maungaroa Airport Gisborne Tuahine Point

Mata River Mt Hikurangi Poverty Bay (1752m) 30miles 50km 0 0 Tatapouri Beach Pouaka Bay Lottin Point Waikuru Hicks Bay Valley 35 Waihau Beach Te PuiaSprings Walkway Cooks Cove Tokomaru Bay Beach Makorori Hicks Bay Rongokako Marine lonelyplanet.com Te Tapuwaeo Reserve Cape East Island Whangaokeno Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels the sublimely carved the sublimely carved Tukaki From theroadside youget adecentviewof a luxuryresort withanupmarket restaurant. of research thelocalpubwasexpanding into here andaccommodationoptions. Atthetime death knellforpassingwhales.There’s astore fishing townof froma commentary Maori perspective. $85) trips BoatTours Jet almost asmuch asthefive-day trip. you tobehelicoptered in,therefore costing is soremote thatthetwo-daytourrequires you100kmdowntheriver.taking Theriver fers multipledayexcursions, withthelongest 462 7238;www.wetnwildrafting.co.nz; 2-5days$750-875) boating adventures. head here forback-to-nature raftingandjet- a protected wilderness area. Actionseekers River of thebroadpebblyexpanse the crosses ditional land)extends to Runaway. Cape the Whanau-a-Apanui tribewhose school gateway. Hawai markstheboundaryof magnificent and littered withoceandetritus.Checkoutthe at smoking active volcano. Thedesolate beaches About 42kmeastof Opotikitheroad Torere Twenty-five kilometres further along,the The main MAORI NZ:THE EAST COAST in Te Urewera). Baydown)andTuhoe (thecoastfromHawkes (east sideofEastCape), (inland NgatiKahungunu ( below ), MaraehakoBayRetreat ( p366 modation aroundEastCape Maoriflavour,considerTe with a distinctly Homestead Lodge), Mel’sPlace( Kaha p366 ) andEastender ( Backpackers p367 ). ofhislegacy. meetinghousesaremagnificent carved part tirelesslyworked inParliament toorchestrate aculturalrevival withinMaoridom.The region’s PrimeMinister). Ngata,whosefaceadornsthe$50bill,Apirana Ngata(whowasbrieflyacting 19th centurytheyproducedthegreat leadersJamesCarroll (thefirstMaoricabinetminister) and n Mugpht (p377). Maungapohatu and tigations atAniwaniwa( p378 ) andifyouhave time,visittheuniquecommunitiesatRuatahuna Hikoitangi Iti( p396 ). Te Aute College( p396 Tour ( ) welcomesvisitorsbutyou’llneedtocallahead. p373 ), Tipuna Tours( p373 BayMaoriTourism( ), Hawkes Maori). TrytheNgatiPorouVisitor’s Centre ( p383 p367 ), LongIslandTours( ), MotuRiver JetBoatTours( below p390 ), WhaleRider ) or the text we’ve listed interesting BayMuseum Hawkes , thefirst river inNZtobedesignated as Ngati Porou and Ngati Kahungunu are thecountry’ssecondandthirdbiggest Ngati PorouandKahungunu There are plentyofexcellenttoursoffering anintimate to introduction existtointeract withMaoricultureMany opportunities whileyou’re intheregion. Foraccom- For amore passive brushwiththeculture, visitGisborne’sTairawhiti Museum The Urewera region yourinves- hasalongandproudhistoryofresistance tocolonisation:start includeanecologicalandhistorical , Hawai whakairo ( % (tribes)intheregion are Te Whanau-a-Apanui(westsideofEastCape), NgatiPorou and 07-325 2735;www.motujet.co.nz; 1hr Te Kaha Omaio Wet ‘n’WildRafting

( p383 Pa) andOtatara ( p384 ), andTikitiki’s StMary’sChurch( p367 ). Throughout (carving) onthe Torere (carving) oncesoundedthe are shelved steeply EAST CAPE••Pacific EAST CoastHwy marae marae rohe . Motu River Motu River ( % thatcanbeadmired fromthestreet.

(tra- Motu 0800 of- pacious, modern guesthouse sitsonthreepacious, modernguesthouse Copenhagen Rd,Te s/d$125/150; Kaha; $20; garoa.co.nz; AccessRd;sites perperson$10,dm Maungaroa store. general an excellentcafé(breakfast $5to$12)anda beach, there’s atumultof oceanicactivities, all-things-to-all-visitors. Just300mfromthe tained, motels, thisbeautifullymain- self-contained dm $20,d$78-105; SH35; .tekahaholidaypark.co.nz; jaunts are alsoon the cards. rangement; horse trekking, fishing anddiving Breakfast isincludedbutdinnerbyar- leafy acres irresistible totui(parson birds). the slightest provocation. Kaha’ (tothetuneof ofchoruses ‘WelcometotheHomestead atTe fishing trips($80perhour)andbursts into is basicbuttheenthusiasticownerorganises views toWhite Island.Theaccommodation amongst archaic pohutukawa trees withspa big-hearted, thiswaterfront hostel perches 325 2193;SH35;dm/s/tw/d$30/40/60/80) Lodge Homestead Te Kaha SLEEPING Maungaroa Station Maungaroa HolidayPark Te Kaha Tui Lodge p ) This remote Raukumara Ranges lodge Thisremote Ranges Raukumara hapu

( (subtribe)-runholidayparkis % pi /fax 07-3252922;[email protected];

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32) Napier’s ( p372), 07-325 2194;fax07- 07-325 2894;www iwi p . Inthelate Affable and Affable ) (things Thisca- ) given

365 THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST owes more thanalittletoRobinson Crusoe absolute waterfront, hostel thisparadisaical hapu SH35; sitesperadult/child $9/5; work. Kayaks are free. at opportunity towatch traditional carvers cultural experiences,including The sages in thesand. you wanttogrowabeardandtrace SOS mes- it’llmaketogether and jetsam, fromflotsam cobbled under thestars ($5extra).Seemingly heprobablydidn’t have– although aspapool .maraehako.co.nz; SH35;dm/s/d$28/43/66; and slicesmake thisagreat lunch stop. Paninis, toasted andnuttyfudges sandwiches of partsof themostspectacular thecoast. ice cream, accompaniedbyviewsalongone a tubof home-mademacadamia andhoney Whanarua Bay;snacks$5-8; $150) isperfect for groups. bach (holidayhouse; bedroom self-contained corrugated ironandpauainlay.Thethree- buried treasure, blendingweathered timber, looks like manicured with driftwoodcrossed this magicalB&Bonaprivate rockycove SH35; d$120-130; B&B Waikawa SLEEPING &EATING be reached on foot. kumara wasfirst introducedtoNZ,canonly at thecentre of thebeach. store/takeaway attached totheholidaypark ern end,alongsidethepub.There’s another office/store/takeawaystation/post atitswest- ontory. beaconofmaintained beliefonalonelyprom- Church WWI Maori soldiers. Nearby Battalion of Bay Papatea A successionof sleepy bays follows.At Te KahatoCapeRunaway four-hours, $35 to $65). a tree trek forahorse orsaddle-up (one-to outside; dunkyourself intheKereu River, hug infourbedrooms)orcamp eight tage (sleeps cot- reach. Bunkdownintheself-contained Copenhagen Rd)andtworiver crossingsto requires a45-minute drive upadirtroad(off 366 guided walks,horse treks, boattripsandthe Maraehako Camping Ground Camping Maraehako BayRetreat Maraehako Pacific CoastMacadamias Hinemahuru marae Hinemahuru astheneighbouring hostel, notmuch ATCP • PcfcCatHy CAPE••PacificEAST CoastHwy

Raukokore Waihau Bay stoptoadmire theunusualgates

( % p 07-325 2070; www.waikawa.net; 7541 07-325 2070;www.waikawa.net; (1894)isan ) Towards Whanarua Bay, TowardsWhanaruaBay, hasanall-in-onepetrol , carved withimages of, carved h hapu p

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immaculately % marae pi Heaven is 07-325 2047; tours, With ) , where Christ Christ at the manuka. Stopforcoffee and Cape oils, creams andhoneymadefrompotent East Apr-Oct) Mon-Fri Nov-Mar, 4464Tecapemanuka.co.nz; AraroaRd; Company Manuka Cape Te Araroaschoolyard. Theprogressive NZ’s largest pohutukawa tree, inthe stands 40m boughs, Te-Waha-O-Rerekohu, allegedly More than 350years oldwith22trunksand cliffs.from igneousoutcropstosandstone fully carved village withashop, andbeauti- pub,takeaway nowhere townwitha fabulous beach. hitting thecoastat crossing intoNgatiPorouterritory before The roadheadsinlandfromWhangaparaoa, Cape RunawaytoEast lunches are available. charters ($65),cooked breakfasts andpicnic slumberers (add$20perextrabod).Fishing accommodate uptoeight comfortably Bay kept stretch apartmentsonasandy of Waihau .waihaubay.co.nz; 10932SH35;d$100-120) sm compensation. some restaurant, poolandglowworm grottoare old-fashioned roomsare nothingflash;the this sprawlingmotel above The HicksBay. views distractfrom thebarrackambienceat baymotel.co.nz; 5198 SH35;d$110-135; elsewhere. look to yourrequirements. Ifyou’re dog-phobic, cultural tours andfishingtripscan betailored caravancontained bythe beach ($65).Maori own cookinggear) andthere’s asmartself- campsites have wicked bayviews(bringyour manages thisbusyhostel withaplomb.The On anancestral Bay;sitesperperson/dm$15/25) 89 OnepotoBeachRd,Hicks on else) this leg. drinks(oranything It’s alongwaybetween SLEEPING &EATING minute climbto the lighthouse. of road,witha25- townalonganunsealed mainland NZ.It’s21km(30minutes) east splashing aboutin the clear stream. Toddlers willadoreand beachfront nirvana. is offered butcleantoilets,water forboiling Mel’s Place Mel’s From Te thesunrise Araroa,drive outtosee Nearly 10kmfurtheris Oceanside Apartments Hicks Bay Motel Lodge BayMotel Hicks East Cape ( marae % 06-864 4694;www.eastcapefishing.co.nz; Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels pa Hicks Bay Hicks . Thegeology changes here (fortifiedvillage) site, Mel isalsohere, soaps, selling

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( % 0508 626852;www.east , theeasterly tipof Te Araroa 06-864 4880;www.hicks , areal middle-of- h 07-325 3699;www sp These nicely These 9am-4.30pm daily , alone-dog kai Brilliant ) (food). East

$10/6, dm/s$25/35,d&tw$65) [email protected]; SH35,Te Araroa;sitesperadult/child yoga kit to salute yoga kittosalute the sun. anditfacesdueeast,sobringyour at night basic roomsandspacefortents. It’sdeadquiet beachside lodge hasahandfulof well-kept Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ple and include light meals. Standard options meals.Standard ple andinclude light The journeys require aminimum of two peo- marae can arrangetantly culturaltours, including butmoreauthentic localart forsale, impor- h 864 8660;www.ngatiporou.iwi.nz;144Waiomatatini Rd; of cafés.The minimarket, pubandacouple petrolstation, headquarters. It’sanicelittletownwith a of Tikitiki, further twohours to the summit. the NgatiPorouVisitors’ and thena Centre) a four-hour tramptothehut($15;bookat ing towardsPakihiroa Fromhere Station. it’s Valley Rd,3kmnorthof Ruatoria,andhead- byturningoff SH35atTapuaeroamountain rienced buthardywalkers canaccessthe shoulder tohonour the demigod. erectedhas been 1000muponHikurangi’s Whakairo Maui resting here The ontheirsacred mountain. Maui andearthlyremains storyhashiscanoe Island ( p56 ). NgatiPorou’sversion of the dragged upwhenMaui snagged theNorth to localtraditionitwasthefirst pieceof land be touched bythesuneach day.According peak inNZandthefirst spotontheplanetto non-volcanic isthehighest Range, Raukumara soldiers in attendance. depictsWWIMaori behind thealtar Battalion the lectern. crucifixionscene Astained-glass ings –check outthelittleguysholdingup windows, painted beamsandamazingcarv- walls, geometrically patterned stained-glass There are woven overload.outside butstep insideforasensory Church out onbyvisitingtheextraordinary you’ll get afairideaof whatyou’re missing If you’ve itching been toget insidea Araroa, thefirst townyoucometois Heading farmlandsouthof through Te East CapetoTokomaruBay Sunrise Lodge Sunrise A few kilometres offSH35and20km south Hikurangi’s notatrampfortheinexpe- Mount Hikurangi 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) (1924).It’snothingspecialfromthe stays for groupsandtripstoHikurangi. stays Ruatoria Ruatoria , nine massive wooden carvings, , ninemassive woodencarvings, Ngati Porou Visitors’ Centre Centre Ngati PorouVisitors’

( tukutuku % (1752m),juttingoutof the hasinternet accessand is theNgatiPoroutribal 06-864 4854;sunriselodgeeast Thislonelylittle (flax panels)onthe EAST CAPE••Pacific EAST CoastHwy St Mary’s St Mary’s (

marae Tikitiki % 06- , . place.co.nz; 21PotaeSt,Tokomaru Bay;sitesperperson/dm/s ing Toko Bay. Thepanoramic tent patching Toko Bay. is slopeoverlook-Brian’s balancesatop asteep $15/25/43, d&tw$56; garden. back room insideandadormannex inthe is anowner-operated hostel withadouble (footprints aplenty),this100-year-old house person/dm/d $15/20/60) printsinthesand.co.nz; 13PotaeSt,Tokomaru Bay;sitesper try a ($35) are offered get even to andyoumight lessons (two hours, $60)andbone-carving there’s asafe waterhole nearby.Horse treks areas. Thebeach is diceyforswimming,but solar-powered hutsandsnappycommunal sit-around-the-campfire hasclean farmstay London soapoperaasimaginable,thischeery dm $23-33; Rd;siteperperson$10, enderhorsetreks.co.nz; 836Rangitukia Backpackers Eastender SLEEPING &EATING ways anda summer-only café. supermarket/post office, acoupleof takea- asmall Point. You’llalsofindapetrolstation, attraction here isthefamoussurfbreak, Toko inthe1950s.Thebig freezing worksclosed town hasweathered hardtimessincethelocal Thisromanticallycrumbling cliffs. sweeping tire route, withitsbroadbeach framedby perhaps themostbeautifulspotonen- meningitis. amoebic world. Don’tsplashaboutasthere’s ariskof mineralcontenthas thehighest of anyinthe the smallpoolof milkywater which reputedly askatthehotel foraccessto informal set-up; Hotel facilities) atthebackof the pools are inanoldshed (withnochanging is anabsolute stunner. Theactualthermal handy petrolstation/store. Nearby and-you’ll-miss-it hot-springsvillage witha ing and kayaking. including fishing, diving,horse-trekking, surf- awholeholidaytoyourneeds, tailor can even ($75oneway).They pick-up/drop-off service mit (eight-hour/overnight $165/300)anda ($145, departs5am),guidedtours tothesum- ($105 perperson, fourhours),tour asunrise are a4WD guidedtourtoMaui Whakairo o A further11kmsouthis About 26kmsouthis Footprints intheSand Footprints

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( ( Elevated, ecofriendly Elevated, % %

( % Te PuiaSprings 06-864 5870;www.brians 06-864 3820;www.east 06-864 5858;www.foot Te PuiaHotSprings Tokomaru Bay Waipiro Bay . It’san , ablink- 367 ,

THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST Bay; meals$5-17; Tokomaru Bay –itsbarren areTokomaru Bay cliffs testimony areup, theseconds soldat a discount. their delicate, priceyhandiworks; iftheystuff knitters oneof atworkandthenpurchase former councilbuilding.Youcanwatch the Mon-Sat, 10am-3pmSun) Company Just off themainstreet, in thefoyerof (88.5FM). thelocalradiostation Centre 14km furthersouth.There’s an here. campsite end of thebay.There’s avery basicfree DOC forest atthenorthern andgrassland,starting Bay Walkway remains atthesouthendof thebay. cultivations. Pretty little were living andtheir‘trulyastonishing’ the ‘profound peace’inwhich the people arrival in1769whenhecommented on of Cook’s thebaycommemorates Captain view farbelow.Aplaquenearthecentre ment whenisolated 7km tothecoast,it’sadefinite ‘wow’mo- After abucolic 22kmof andfurther highway beachfront (see Tokomaru Bay above ). views and brilliant burgers. atthisfriendlypubwithawesomepitality Wed &Sun,11am-2amThu-Sat) comfy. surprisingly cent,whiletheatticroomsareworth every 368 Tokomaru BaytoGisborne Freedom Camping isavailableFreedom onthe Camping Tolaga isnowhere nearasattractive as largest Cape’s communityis East Te Tavern Puka water supply. chemicaltoiletandneed yourowncooker, to sixcampers. The onlycatchisthatyou’ll for agroupastheonepermitcovers up of $10,$25or$60respectively. It’sgreat two, 10or28consecutive nightsatacost .gdc.govt.nz/services/freedomcamping) for You canapplyforapermitonline(www of designated sites fromSeptember toApril. informal camping),butonlyatahandful mit Freedom Camping (extremely cheap They’re oneofthefew authoritiestoper- Council.God blesstheGisborneDistrict FREEDOM TOCAMP ATCP • Gson CAPE••Gisborne EAST

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( % 06-862 6862;55CookSt; is a 3.5km ramble through native isa3.5kmramblethrough 06-862 6746;31SolanderSt; h

( 2.30pm-midnight Tue, 11am-midnight % 06-864 5466;BeachRd,Tokomaru inhabitstheArt-Deco Anaura Bay Experience localhos- Experience Tolaga Bay Cashmere Tolaga BayCashmere Hinetamatea Marae Hinetamatea h 6am-6pm Mon-Fri) 6am-6pm Mon-Fri) springsinto Information h Tolaga Bay 9am-4pm Anaura

, Cook St;dm$20,s$30-40,d&tw$50-60) perfectly toilets. acceptable up withwater. There’s adecentkitchen and little stream where James Cookoncestocked onthebeachfrontthe location–right by Bay Rd;sitesperadult/child$12/6; SH35 ontheedge of the marine reserve. justoff andatPouakaBay, WaihouBay Bay, ( left ) isavailable atthenorthendof Tolaga modation optionsare slim.Freedom Camping Unless you’re ahappycamper,decentaccom- SLEEPING &EATING ners ($150)inthe marine reserve. snorkelling ($60)andscubadives forbegin- .com; SH35,Tatapouri Beach) whales –heaven forsnorkellers and divers. dolphins andmarine life includingfurseals, a 2450-hectare haven formanyspeciesof where Captain Cook landed. farmland andnative bush toanothercove August toOctober), aneasystrollthrough Walkway Cooks Cove disintegrating atitssouthernend.Nearbyis wide, withNZ’slongest pier(660m)slowly had ontheland.Thebeach here and isdeep to theimpactthatfarmingdeforestation has it; Gisborne claimsmore finedays thanany ithogs thesunandonceitdoes earth tosee brilliant. bloody style here as‘notbad’–meaning, of course, nay, mostKiwiswoulddescribe thelife- of surfbeaches chardon-between andasea Squeezed and increasingly self-confident. Gizzy toherfriends, Gisborne’s apretty thing pop 32,700 GISBORNE needs anything more? as openlawnsbaskinthesunshine–who oceanbreeze touslesNorfolkIslandpines stiff place where The becomessubstance. absence pier nearby,there’s notalothere, butthisisa $11/5, cabins$55-65; Rd;sitesperadult/child [email protected]; 167Wharf $15). to spillingontothestreetwith tables (meals$7 but cleanrooms.Downstairs isapopularcafé charm tothis1930sfaux-Tudorinnwithbasic It proudlyclaims tobethefirst cityon Tolaga BayHolidayPark Anaura BayMotorCamp Reserve Te Marine Tapuwae oRongokako Tolaga Inn TatapouriDive

( %

Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels p 06-862 6856;[email protected]; 12 ( %

(2½ hours, 5.8km, closed (2½ hours, 5.8km,closed Aside fromtheredundant ) 06-686 6139;www.divetatapouri offers boattours ($100),

( ( % % p There’s ashabby 06-862 6388;Anaura 06-862 6716;tolaga ) It’sallabout is charm andinteresting mainstreet. Grand itssmalltownhelped Gisbornemaintain Young Nick’s Head. Poverty here, starts Bay hookingsouthto city inNZandenjoysthematthebeach. lonelyplanet.com Setting anunfortunate benchmark forMaori/Setting much to theamazementof thelocalpeople. plies andexplore ashore, thelandtheyset toreplenishby Cook’sexpedition.Eager sup- blossomed. settlement Kumara flourished inthefertile soilandthe ing of TuranganuiaKiwa(now Gisborne). and Kiwaof the waka 700 years. twomigratory Apactbetween History it’s amite, well, boring. wine. Justdon’t comehere toparty;after dark few days,hitthebeaches andsipheavenly slice of audacious Art Deco. 1950s, five-storey ‘skyscrapers’ andtheodd Edwardian buildingssitalongsidemodernist foroverThe Gisborneregion settled hasbeen Perhaps it’stheisolated locationthat’s In 1769thiswasthefirst partof NZsighted It’s agoodplacetoputyourfeet upfora adherents. Churchwasfirmlyestablished–at the mostrecenthis Ringatu censusitboasted over 16,000 officially pardoned in 1883.Bythistimehisreputation asaprophet andhealerhadspread and vastdominionwhere governmentCountry, theMaoriking’s troopsfeared totread. around 50others(includingwomenand children, Maoriand Te Biggsand effective bykilling Kooticommencedaparticularly guerrilla campaign–starting magistrate Reginald Biggsdemandinghisimmediate surrender. Unimpressed by rather thanbowingsubmissively; as asacrifice. Upontheirsafe arrivalTe Kooti’sdisciplesraisedtheirrighthandsinhomagetoGod supply shipandsailingtoPoverty Baywith200followers. Enroute hethrew adoubter overboard the Pai Marire onChristianity. Maoritake tohisdistinctly his hands(hiscaptorsclaimedheusedphosphorusfromtheheadofmatches) –helpedwinover charismaticpreaching His and‘miracles’–including producingflamesfromarchangel Michael. foolishly ignored. protestationsthe ChathamIslandswithouttrial.His ofinnocenceanddemandsforjusticewere faith, foundedbyanotherwarrior-prophet) butwasaccusedofbeingaspyandimprisonedon fascinatingexampleis A particularly (rhymeswithnaughty,notbooty). Maori historyislittered withmystics,prophetsandwarriors–often combinedinthesameperson. TE KOOTI Proving the pointlessnessofthegovernment’s approachtothewhole affair,Te Kootiwas A merryfour-year chaseensued.Eventually Te Kootitookrefuge inthearea knownasKing Te Kootirequested adialogue withthecolonialgovernment butwasonceagainrebuffed, with In 1867Te a Kootiledanastounding,almostbloodlessescapefromtheChathams,hijacking While ontheChathams,Te Kootistudiedthebibleandclaimedtoreceive visionsfromthe In 1865hefoughtwiththegovernment againsttheHauhau(adherents ofthePai Marire (canoe) skippers, Paoa (canoe) of the EAST CAPE••Gisborne EAST Takitimu, ledtothefound- ringa tu Horouta (upraisedhand)becamethenameof hischurch.

Cahm Islands. Chatham vivors, includingTe Kooti( below ), tothe crushed alloppositionandtransported sur- in 1865.Thefollowingyearthegovernment ofculminating intheBattle Waerenga ahika Hauhau insurrection spread Coast, totheEast Maori inTaranaki, erupted. Beginning the settlement. limited to thearea butMaori resistance tolandsales sionaries followed.More Europeansmoved near Manutuke. Whalingboomedandmis- Turanganui River’s westbankandafarm Harris onthe awhalingbase established John Williams 1831. Motivated self-starter their nextlandfall, Tolaga Bay. and crew madeamuch better impression at item wewanted’. Thenamestuck,andCook area Poverty asingle as‘itdidnotafford Bay Cook, perhaps inafitof petulance,namedthe without theprovisions theywere seeking. of them. ditional blood-curdlingchallenge, killingsix fire whenthelocalmenperformedtheirtra- Pakeha In the 1860s battles between settlers and settlers In the1860sbattlesbetween didn’tbeginuntilEuropean settlement The Endeavour (nonMaori) relations, thecrew opened Pakeha ) atMatawhero. quickly set sail upthecoast sail quicklyset Pakeha justice,

369 THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST 370 0 1 km GISBORNE 0 0.5 miles ATCP • Gson CAPE••Gisborne EAST

St e 35 nc To Shelley Rd (700m); To Gisborne To East Coast Museum of Barry Wi Pere St lla Transport & Technology (2.5km); G Ba Te Kuri Walkway (3.7km) EATING Hospital (2km) lad d To Knapdale Eco st Park R Matawhero (6km); SH2 (6km); o Bookshop Café...... (see 4) ne t Lodge (12.5km) W R r T R KEW (16km); Millton (16km); d e u a h s Café 1874...... 28 E3 r i s Repongaere Estate (16km); Eastwoodhill u ta e erb A h k ll Arboretum (36km); Wairoa(98km); H b e e Café Ruba...... 29 E3 d e r r S r u t Napier (216km) R d S Fettucine Brothers...... 30 E3 d e R t y e i e R n v l 12 Just Thai Cuisine...... 31 E3 Childers Rd k R er O n c d C a u rm d t b l Pak N Save Supermarket...... 32 D2 if R S e S o f o t n o R o d Verve...... 33 D2 n r t u d o t R t S Fox St S Wharf Café Bar Restaurant.....34 E3 t li S d y e t t L Elgin ra is D DRINKING To 18 2 Irish Rover...... 35 D3 (700m);Avis (700m); 1 Pa Soho Bar...... 36 E3 Budget (700m); Childers lm t e Stafford S Hertz (700m) Road rs Reserve to 23 t n ENTERTAINMENTR S G R ive Scott St n la d rs o d Odeon Multiplex Theatres...... ide 37 E3 rv s R Sportsground a to d rn n t Poverty Bay Club...... (see 28) In a e S ne C R s d y St rb 19 en St TRANSPORT d 32 De Cob Air New Zealand...... 38 D2 Clocktower 26 Anzac ert St r InterCity...... (see 3) St 38 Fitzherb e v C i h i R ld 5 33 R e e St r Kelvin ta s 30 a a t R d Waikanae Creek S d s Park m Awapuni 35 37 ai 14 ey Q Banks r t W G u t S a 3 4 y St 31 nder t Sola Brigh S Ira l n K e ui a e R Awa h P 6 d 16 puni u 21 t Rd ti St S a s S 28 r i r R 15 t owe e u 22 r t L v e Old Railway a 29 i n Salisbury e Rd H R tennial M Station P 25 R 34 d n arine itt St i Ce Pde ouse St Awapuni To The u mh n 24 Sports Pipe (4km) Waikanae a 27 8 g W Stadium Beach n Midway Beach Custo ai a nu r i R u 36 d Kaiti d INFORMATION Cook Observatory...... 10 E4 Te Tauihu Turanga T R e r ad u Automobile Association (AA)... 1 D2 Cook's Plaza...... 11 E4 Whakamana...... 21 E3 17 an to pl 13 La DOC Office...... 2 D2 Gisborne Botanic Gardens...... 12 D1 7 Es e e D D3 E4 SLEEPING Th Gisborne i-SITE...... 3 Goldenvines Estate...... 13 Rd (Kaiti Hill) Crawford Muirs Bookshop...... 4 E3 Lindauer Cellars...... 14 B3 Cook's Quarters B&B...... 22 E3 lonelyplanet.com Paper Plus...... 5 D2 Olympic Pool...... 15 B3 Flying Nun Backpackers...... 23 C2 35 R Police Station...... 6 D3 Poverty Bay Golf Club...... 16 A3 Gisborne YHA...... 24 E3 Titirangi Lookout anfurly Rd 9 Statue of Young Nick...... 17 D4 Pacific Harbour 20 To Sponge Bay Island (4km); SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Sunshine Brewing Company.. 18 C2 Motor Inn...... (see 25) Amor-Bendall (5km); K Wainui Beach (5km); Captain Cook Statue...... 7 D4 Tairawhiti Museum...... 19 E2 Senator Motor Inn...... 25 E3 a i t 11 Titirangi One Orange (6km); i Cidery...... 8 D3 Te Moana Maritime Te Kura B&B...... 26 E2 B Domain Makorori (10.5km); e Cook National Historic Reserve Museum...... (see 19) Waikanae Beach a East Cape (190km) c & Cook Monument...... 9 D4 Te Poho o Rawiri Marae...... 20 F4 Holiday Park...... 27 D3 h 10 (Kaiti Hill)isthespotwhere Cookfirst St; street is Gladstone Rd and Waikanae Beach street isGladstoneRdandWaikanaeBeach Turanganui River Themain runstothesea. and Taruheru Rivers, belowwhich the presides over theconfluenceof theWaimata Known as‘thecityof bridges’, Gisborne lonelyplanet.com got NZdirt onhisboots (9October 1769 globe etched withhis roaming routes. a atYoung Nick’sHead).white cliffs There’s eagle-eyes were thefirst tospotNZ(the (Nicholas Young),Cook’scabinboy,whose the river mouththere’s a Cook.Inaparkby Gisborne deifiesCaptain HISTORIC SITES&MONUMENTS Sights Gisborne i-SITE DOC TOURIST INFORMATION Paper Plus POST Gladstone Rd. The major theirprofits bankstally along MONEY Gisborne Hospital MEDICAL SERVICES Police station &police service Ambulance, fire EMERGENCY Bookshop Muirs BOOKSHOPS Information .aatravel.co.nz; 363GladstoneRd; Association Automobile i-SITE ( below ). Roadmapsare available at is immediately southof the town centre. .com; 209Grey St; ably thewholeEastCoast)hasbeenhere since 1905. 9am-3pm Sat)ThebestbookshopinGisborne(andprob- shop.co.nz; 62GladstoneRd; access, cleantoiletsandaminigolf course ($3). Region helpful centre stocksthethorough(andfree) Sat &Sun)BesideadoozyofCanadiantotempole,this Orientation Captain Cookstatue Captain h Across theriver atthefootof Titirangi Free townmapsare available atGisborne’s ( % and 8am-4.35pm Mon-Fri) 06-869 0460; www.doc.govt.co.nz; 63 Carnarvon 06-869 0460;www.doc.govt.co.nz; 63Carnarvon Pacific CoastHwy (166GladstoneRd) ( % ( h ( % % EAST CAPE••Gisborne EAST ( 06-869 0200;Peel St) % 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 06-868 6139;www.gisbornenz 06-869 0651;www.muirsbook 06-869 0500;OrmondRd) here too,erected ona

booklets. Italsohasinternet h (AA; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, h % statue ofYoungNick 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) ( 06-868 1424;www % 111) Eastland

(Aberdeen Rd) love itjust the same. ported trees andshrubs,butthenative birds It’s thecountry’s largest collectionof im- themed tracksinthispine-scented paradise. adaywanderingaroundthe 15kmoflose beautiful,youcouldeasilyStaggeringly h .nz; 2392Wharekopae Rd,; adult/child$10/free; p364; (Map Arboreal nirvana, GARDENS ingly tended gardens. ( p369 withlov- simpleaffair ). It’sasweetly Telage tohave survived Kooti’s1868raid 5573; ChurchLn) SH2. Thehistoric interaction with the locals. images of twomenkilledduringCook’sfirst modern Maori sculpture incorporatingthe Prow; cnrGladstoneRd&CustomhouseRd) hoopla, world’s easternmost star-gazing facility. ( no idea!’Furtheronisthe A plaqueproclaims,‘Whowashe?Wehave Jim. bear anyfacialresemblance toCaptain garbed inBritish it naval uniform,nordoes heretoric proportions,theCookstatue isn’t fice, Near thesummitisyetanotherCookedi- of sweatyjoggers, youcancheat anddrive. Monument. Ifyoucanhandlethedisdain to thetop,which neartheCook starts racing andkumarapitsonthesteeptrack once a (p59). interior decorated the view tocallaheadaskforpermission to need get adecentviewfromthegates butyou’ll Youcan house. meeting elaborately carved Rd&QueensDr;admissionbyinvitation) Ranfurly is landing pointof the Horouta moreis madeeven significantbybeingthe Thisscrappysite ofarse-end thewharves. Cook monument the 8th).The according toCook’sjournal, butactually % Matawhero Adding somebalancetoalltheCook Titirangi hasmagicalcityviews.Itwas Tucked awayontheothersideof Titirangi The lessambitious Te PohooRawiri 9am-5pm) 06-867 7901;publicviewing$2; Cook’s Plaza pa Te Tauihu Turanga Whakamana ; lookoutfortheremnants of ter- isbeside theTaruheru River. % is35kmnorthwestof Gisborne. istheonlybuildinginvil- is7kmwestof Gisbornealong 06-863 9003;www.eastwoodhill.org Cook National Historic Reserve Reserve Cook NationalHistoric isagrimobelisk facingthe . Duetoacock-upof his-

Presbyterian Church Presbyterian Marae Marae Gisborne BotanicGardens ( % h Cook Observatory Cook Observatory 06-868 5364;cnr waka 8.30pm Tue) is alarge (The Canoe (The

. with its

( % , the 371 868 and

THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST improbable collationof rustytractors, lawn .nz; 24MoanaRd,WainuiBeach; kling wineproducer. Has acafé and museum. wines.co.nz; SolanderSt; purchase. for tastings(wholerange $10,perwine$2)credited with in winterorforguidedtoursandantipastoplatters. Charge winery committedtosustainablewinegrowing. Call ahead Rd, Patutahi; Te Works. The is $10fortastingsandacheeseplatefromtheir restaurant, vines.co.nz; TheEsplanade; Lindauer Cellars Lindauer Cellars KEW Goldenvines Estate Amor-Bendall many openlonger in summer. The followingallhave hours; publictasting set the latest openinghours formostvineyards. Guide quently deducted frompurchases. The some willcharge anominalfee which issubse- local vineyardsoffer free although tastings, particularly Gewürztraminer. Mostof the increasingly beingnoticedforitsaromatics, ing over athirdof thecountry’soutput)but ditionally famousforitschardonnay (produc- Gisborne isamajor wine-producingarea, tra- WINERIES tive capacityortheirabilityto horde junk? bikes andsoon–ashrine topeoples’inven- motor-chainsaws, trucks,pumps,harvesters, mowers, engines,spanners, ploughs, ovens, (SH2, Makaraka; collection. surfboard vintagevisit palebefore thesensational on later moved here forrestoration. Displays were inalocalhome,then salvaged, installed 1912, theship’sbridge cabin andcaptain’s of Canada of theTairawhiti Cottage (1872),Gisborne’s oldest house. Park, andoutsideisthereconstructed Wyllie There’s afabulouscaféoverlooking Kelvin ing local,nationalandinternational exhibits. Its galleryisGisborne’sartshub,withrotat- CoastMaorion East andcolonialhistory. Mon free; .tairawhitimuseum.org.nz; 18StoutSt;adult/under12$5/free, The MUSEUMS 372 The Te Moana Maritime Museum Te MoanaMaritime waka Tairawhiti Museum Museum Tairawhiti ( % ATCP • Gson CAPE••Gisborne EAST (free from thei-SITE)hasamapand East Coast Museum ofTechnology East CoastMuseum &Transport h 06-862 7722; www.kew.co.nz; 569Wharekopae06-862 7722;www.kew.co.nz; , whalingandCook’sPoverty Bay h 10am-4pm Mon-Sat,1.30-4pmSun) foundered onaGisbornereef in

adult/child $5/2; ( noon-4pm Fri-Mon) An award-winning noon-4pm Fri-Mon) % ( % 06-868 0928;www.amor-bendall.co (

% complex. Whenthe 06-868 2757;www.montana h h 06-863 1285;www.golden 10am-5pm) NZ’sbigspar- 10-11am &3-5pm)Charge ( h % h occupiesawing 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) 06-867 3832;www 10am-4.30pm) focuses focuses Winery isan Star Star and biodynamictoboot.Lingerforapicnicin the gardens. Rd, Manutuke; and board hire ($20). are taken insmallgroups),aswellwetsuit gear cheaper included(andeven ifthelessons provides one-on-onesurflessonswithallthe Rd,WainuiBeach;lesson$65) 58Murphy withfrank.com; also have quality breaks. Wainui Sponge BayIsland tubed southof townat ers andyoungones;experiencedsurfers get ately shaggy. male teenage populationlookingappropri- Surfing ismainstream inGisborne,withthe SURFING &KITEBOARDING Activities viewings onoffer. Harvest ciders, withfree andfactory tastings producer of Bulmers Original,Scrumpyand h and tastings by arrangement. Gold brewery,natural beer shipscrates of Disraeli St; Company SunshineBrewing BREWERIES Millton and slide downthe50m-long rockyrunat a ogie boardtocushion theworst of thebruises the Wharekopae Rd.Grab atire tubeorbo- Rere River 50km northwestof Gisbornealong natural phenomenon occursof inasection the you can’tbeatthe For free skull-endangering thingsto doinNZ OTHER ACTIVITIES ($3) andaquafitness ($3.50). classes outdoor poolwitha98mwormlike waterslide adult/child $3/2; Pool time forsummer. Iftheoceanischilly, and Midwaybeaches; thedetritusiscleared in theflagsatWaikanae swim safely between thedriftwoodtoPick yourwaythrough SWIMMING for pairs and multiple lessons. skills toget youflyingover thesurf.Discounts lesson$105) .katapoltkiteboarding.com; Katapolt Kiteboarding Katapolt withFrank Surfing The 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSat) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri,

( % as fast as it can make the stuff. Free asfastitcanmake tours thestuff. ( Cidery ( Map Map p364 % 06-867 6220; Centennial Marine Pde, Midway Beach; Pde,Midway 06-867 6220;CentennialMarine h 06-862 8680;www.millton.co.nz; 119Papatu h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) h

Waikanae Beach Waikanae ( )and 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Sustainable,organic 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) % 6am-8pm) . East of. East townalongSH35,

06-868 8300;91CustomhouseSt; Call Call for bookings. Rere Rockslide Rere Makorori Makorori

( % isatepid 50mindoor/

06-867 0823; www.surfing 06-867 0823;www.surfing ( The Pipe The %

, Gisborne’sown ( % is theapple-hued ( is goodforlearn- hasthegear and Map Map p364 06-868 1517;www lonelyplanet.com Mp p364) (Map 06-867 7777;109 , oreastat ) beaches Gisborne . This Olympic

Tipuna Tours ($75,ninehours).Book at Waikaremoana Lake the i-SITE. Arboretum ($50, halfday),Morere($70)and Hot Springs 90 minutes),winetasting ($45,halfday),Eastwoodhill [email protected]) aroundGisborne ($20, Includes trips a visit to Eastwoodhill a visittoEastwoodhill Arboretum ( p371 ). mind getting wet.Bothcanbecombinedwith 10m drop;youcanwalkbehind itifyoudon’t p364) Three kilometres downriver, the 60-degree angleintothepoolatbottom. Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Paradise Tours Leisure around theGisborneregion, including: ($70). tours includingWhale Rider as farTolagaBay, cultural experienceswhich headupthecoast 4hr/8hr tour$100/200) ( for themovie andleadsthe limited to guided tours. introduction toMaori culture, accessisnow the inconvenience andprovide ameaningful the situation,limitnumbers, compensatefor you tokeep out.Inordertotake controlof down tothevillage there are noticeswarning tical placefromSH35.Ifyoudofindyourway you won’tfindanysignspointingtothismys- homes asiftheywere movie That’swhy sets. some of whomtreated the – Gisborne, wasswampedwithsightseers Maori village atWhangara,21kmnorthof After Tours h www.gisbornegolf.co.nz; cnrLyttonRd &SH35;18holes$40; par-72 arranged. be Tamer fishing andsnorkelling tripscanalso ( ity withashark-cage dive from of Shelley Rd. 4kmnorthofOctober) starts townattheend Walkway forest withcommandingviews,the Walk chures forthe river. Thei-SITEcanprovide youwithbro- area, withagentle starting strollalongthe 4 people) % % Various operators offer general tours Hone Taumaunu wasculturaladvisor Alternatively, of awaken mortal- yoursense Work thekinksoutof yourswingatthe There are of inthe stacks walkstotackle 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pmSat 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, & Sun) 06-868 6139;[email protected];perperson$50,min 06-867 2970; www.surfit.co.nz; perperson$250) 06-867 2970;www.surfit.co.nz; send a 30m-wide curtain of a30m-widecurtain water send over a . Winding its way through farmlandand . Windingitswaythrough Whale Rider ; book through theGisbornei-SITE. ; bookthrough (two hours, 5.6km, closed Augustto (twohours, 5.6km,closed Poverty BayGolfClub Poverty

( % Arts & Crafts Trail &Crafts Arts 06-867 6558;[email protected]; offers atailored range of wasreleased thesleepy ( % 027 2239440;grantsue marae EAST CAPE••Gisborne EAST

Whale Rider Tour Whale Rider ( % and Surfit Charters Surfit . Rere Falls Rere andprivate 06-867 4402; Historic Historic Te Kuri (Map (Map .

ing inthemainshindigonSunday– Estate; tickets $150-200) Estate; tickets and security. tight this grungyoldplacehasplentyof character prim andproperwhenitwasaconvent, but www.gisborneholidaypark.co.nz; Grey St;unpowered/pow-www.gisborneholidaypark.co.nz; wherever thehell wherever you like. gisborne.info; toursfrom$60)Bechauffeured around including mysterydaysand scenic flights. tours.co.nz; hugerangeoftours, toursfrom$50)Offers Ponderosa) they’rePonderosa) excellent value. the ‘ranch’ cabins(more Pizza Hut than looking like pensioner flats,butalongwith unitsfrom stoptheself-contained doesn’t enviable spotto pitch atent. Colourful art the beach andminutes fromtown,thisisan ered sites$22/26,d$40-50,ste$65-75; side for the bathrooms. to headout- butyou’llneed and comfortable, colour andtransience. Theroomsare large well-kept hostel fillsaramblingmansionwith A short strollacross theriver fromtown,this St;campingperperson/dm/s/d$15/24/39/56; Harris d&tw $48; .co.nz; 147RoebuckRd;campingperperson$11,dm$19-21, Flying NunBackpackers BUDGET the bestoptionsare ashort drive away. are hardertofind.Ifyou’ve gotacar,someof around thecitybeaches. Solidbudget options ing choices anddozens of midrange motels around thecape,Gisbornehassomeluxe sleep- itwhileheading If you’ve roughing been near Gisborneat this time. scrambling tofindaccommodationanywhere bands andinternational headliners. You’llbe on NewYears Eve thatattractsbig-namelocal &Vines Rhythm party andtheWine Waiters’ Relay. Don’tmissSaturday’s freeand tastings. street thevineyards between price includesbuses www.gisbornewine.co.nz/festival; $60) tickets Gisborne Food&WineFestival emakers forthe andfoodiespooltalents weekend, localwin- On theOctoberLabour Festivals &Events Gisborne TownCars Unique BayTours Sleeping Waikanae Beach HolidayPark Waikanae Gisborne YHA The huge onthemusiccalendaris event pi )

Itwasprobably alittlemore (www.rhythmandvines.co.nz; Waioheka (www.rhythmandvines.co.nz; Waioheka ( ( % % , atwo-dayfestival starting ( % 06-867 3269;www.yha.co.nz; 32 06-863 0907;www.uniquebay

06-867 7321;www.go ( % 06-868 0461;yager@xtra

pi (

% ( % 0800 447267; , culminat- 06-867 5634; Right by by Right ) pi 373

) THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST room openingontotheriver, pool and spa. ofuse astately lounge breakfast andabright style riverside home. Thesoleguestroomhas manor atthislovely 1920sArtsandCrafts- hotmail.com; 66WainuiRd;s$95,d/tw$120) 330; .co.nz; 114Snowsill Rd,; s/tw$75/150,d$275- Knapdale EcoLodge TOP END upstairs roomshave more privacy. balcony andplotyourpoliticaltrajectory. The harbour. Sipachardonnay onyourprivate thisstylish motelfor asenator, overlooks the motorinn.co.nz; 2ChildersRd;s/d/tr/q$135/145/165/185) a little dated. It’s cleanandwell-kept, thedécor’s although similar virtuestoitsneighbour, theSenator. The apartment-stylePacific Harbour bestows .pacific-harbour.co.nz; Quay;r$130,ste$130-180) 24Reads Cheeseman Rd;s/d$100/120; compensates. twin issmallish buttheample bathroom furnished Thepleasantly Tudor guesthouse. ifhehadlodged inthisfriendlyfaux- Bay maynothavecaptain nameditPoverty B&B Cook’s Quarters MIDRANGE there’s nothingfor miles around. There’s adecentkitchen butbringfoodas canfillyourdaysandnights. woody delights on thefirst day,butonceyou’re here endless topaytheadmission basic andyou’llstillneed r $25/80; www.eastwoodhill.org.nz; 2392Wharekopae Rd,Ngatapa;dm/ 374 Eastwoodhill Arboretum Senator Motor Inn Senator Pacific HarbourMotorInn Te KuraB&B her reaction washardlysurprising. Sheisadiva,after all. whoseideaofarisqué showistosliptheoddtuneinamongstarias, brow performer video ofFarnham showingwomenthrowingtheirunderwearonstage. Forahigh inconcert in Australia althoughlargely unknownelsewhere. Te decisioncameafter watchinga Kanawa’s a Trans-Tasman spatanda(failed)lawsuitfromthepromoters. Farnham isextremely popular and PrincessDiana. a knighthood,andsungtoanaudienceof600millionpeopleattheweddingPrinceCharles houses alongsidethetopleadingmenofage. upaGrammyand Alongthewayshe’spicked operatic world, Te hasplayedleadingladyinsomeoftheworld’smostrenowned opera Kanawa New Zealand’s mostfamousdaughter wasborninGisborne1944.Atruemegastarofthe DAME KIRITEKANAWA pi ATCP • Gson CAPE••Gisborne EAST Her recent decision to pull out of a concert withAustralianHer recent pop croonerJohnFarnham decisiontopulloutofaconcert caused p ) ) Forget Matamata, thiscould be Thebunksandprivate roomsare ( % 06-863 3497;www.tekura.co.nz; 14 ( ( %

% ( % 06-863 3708;Cooks-Quarters@ ps 06-862 5444;www.knapdale Mp p364; (Map 06-868 8877;www.senator

( % ) Playlordof the 06-867 8847;www % Thegood 06-863 9003; Fit .co.nz; 98Wairere Rd,WainuiBeach;d/q$225/338; poiin provided. provisions with localwines)byarrangement; breakfast home-cooked dinners (passionately matched and king-sizebeds.Troutfishing tripsand soundsystem, enormousbeachBose towels voluminouswineglasses, dio oozes affluence: Architecturally razor-sharp, thisstylish stu- bathroom. a round. Thetwinandcheaper doubleshare ers forwinter andorganic produceallyear for summer,wet-back wood-scrapburn- of –there’s theecoefforts solarheating End.TolkienwouldhaveBag approved comfort andstyleit’smore WestEndthan hereHobbiton right interms of –although atron tipple. afternoon lunches. Finishwithastrong coffee oran breakfasts substantial offset andadventurous and urbane,Ruba’s red and charcoal tones 19; and muffins decent coffee. dishes, anunpredictable arrayof homemade traditional breakfasts, kebabs, pastas, Asian Sun; 16, lunch$12-18; Verve Eating valleys allthewaytoYoung Nick’s Head. living spacethatprovides of vistas vinesand rooms are byalarge separated glass-walled and olive estate. Twosumptuousensuite each kingof itsownhillwithinavineyard of five exquisitely designedmodernhouses, Wake upandsmellthechardonnay inone gaere.co.nz; d/q$265/325; Rd,Patutahi; 30Repongaere Café Ruba Café Estate Repongaere One Orange h i

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) old bankbuildingfillsuponweekends, with modern Gisbornediningatitsbest.Smooth mains $7-13; Save Supermarket Save be forcibly removed. of andliterature qualitycaffeine to mayneed andaverandaleadlights over thestreet. Fans rafters,stripped brickwalls,exposed lovely makes themostof itsheritage features, with Above Muirs Bookshop,thisfunkyplace lonelyplanet.com ad DJs. and per thealcohol andaroster of live bands totem- tapas list, cocktail-tutored barstaff, Soho istheexception.There’s adecent wine bars aren’t Gisborne’sstock-in-trade, but Crawford Rd;noon-3amWed-Sat,noon-10pm Sun) lunches and dinners. occasional live musicand inexpensive pub late, Sat&Sun3pm-late) Rover Irish Drinking &Entertainment Rd; ing coffee orabalmy beer.evening outdoor concourse isperfect foracrispmorn- lent fish themenu.The dishes swimthrough anelegantinterior;tunes waftthrough excel- dinner Mon-Sat) Esplanade; mains$27-34; won’t regret the fettuccine.seafood ofgood selection fresh andgrills.You pasta deliversestablishment ampleportionsanda should be,thisold-fashionedtaurant family $22-28; classics. Thai the Taruheru traditional River andserves street-cornerall. Thisbright, roomoverlooks Simply Barbra $11-19; brunch. all-day bohemian vibeand outdoor/indoor setting, options, reasonable prices,cheerful service, counter food,inventive menu,vegetarian perfect café:excellentcoffee, irresistible andticksalltheelementsofthen goes the thisplace man’s club(1874)wasn’tenough, white grandeurof thePoverty gentle- Bay mains $7-17; Bookshop Café Soho Bar canfillthetrolleyat Self-caterers Fettuccine Brothers o Wharf Café Bar Restaurant BarRestaurant Café Wharf Cuisine Just Thai h 7am-9pm) h h

dinner Mon-Sat) ( Café 1874 Café lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,Sun; % h

h Overlooking theharbour,thisis Overlooking ( % 06-867 1112;69Peel St; . 7am-3pm; , 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pmSat) 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, EAST CAPE••Gisborne EAST Just Jack

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airport; AerodromeRd) airport; ($290, 75minutes) Tauranga ($290,45min- Opotiki travelling via East Cape’s scenicOpotiki travelling Cape’s viaEast vantage of $1advancefares on Sun City Gisborne Taxis Eastland Taxis fareA city-to-airporttaxi costsabout $15. TAXI Hertz Budget Avis Airport: The followinghave counters atGisborne CAR HIRE SH35, see p363 . Rotorua. and (www.nakedbus.com) hours). 4½ Opotiki ($31,twohours) andRotorua($57, utes), and Auckland($76,8¼hours) via ($41, fourhours) viaWairoa($26,90min- depart dailyfromthei-SITEforNapier InterCity BUS ($250, 45 minutes). utes), Rotorua ($290,45minutes) andNapier .co.nz) fares and special offers. onward connections.Checkthewebsite for and Wellington(70minutes, five daily),with St) New Zealand Gisborne Airport AIR Getting There&Around out the day. Gladstone Rd) missed. be shouldn’tDJs. ThesummerSundaysessions court (dates backto1897)live bandsand the southernhemisphere’s oldestsquash room (withitstrioof domes)and leadlight 1874 ( left ) openupthegarden,grandball- occasions whenthefunkykidsfromCafé h fliesto/fromAuckland(onehour,sixdaily) For courier services fromGisborneto For courierservices Organised penny-pinchers can take ad- Sunair Aviation Ltd Theatres Odeon Multiplex BayClub Poverty enquire atcafé) ( % offers toHamilton onweekdays flights ( % (

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( % 06-863 2006;38ChildersRd; 07-575 7799;www.sunair ( % 06-867 3339;79 Naked Bus Naked buses buses 375 Air

THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST the sites are beautifullysituated alongside [email protected]; SH2;sites$30,d$60-90) State Forest.State Justoutof thewoods,55km the coastbefore entering theWharerata Tearooms Grounds &Camping roundabout is Mahia Peninsula. Not farfromthe Nuhaka west toWairoa or easttothemarvellous northern endof Hawke Fromhere Bay. it’s which extends tothebottomof the island. You’re nowinNgatiKahungunu’s territory, from theroad;don’tenter unlessinvited. Marae nui-a-Rangi paintedout fortheunusuallybrightly ahead asit’soften beingrented to groups. river valley,it’sahard-to-beat hostel. Call the deciduousboughs of asheep-studded justofftheHwy.Among 1917 farmhouse s/d/tr $60/75/85;cottage$95-120; xtra.co.nz; SH2,Morere; dm/s/d/tw$25/35,d&tw$50,cabins and stocks basic provisions. home-madegoodies Stream. The caféserves a swimmingholeinthebabblingTunanui tubsfor less steel soaking in. 10°C before beingpumpedintosmallstain- the surfacehere ataround50°C,coolingby thatbubblestoactually ancientseawater leads totheatmosphericNikauBaths. It’s following astream virgin through rainforest is neartheentrance,buta10-minute walk you intolethargy. Themainswimmingpool utes totwo hours) before thehotwater lulls thebushwalks(20min- wanttotackle might the beautiful h 8856; www.morerehotsprings.com; SH2;adult/child$5/2.50; from Gisborne, a short detour. FallsReinga ted ( p368 ). Thesnow-white cascadesof to jumpinto. ispermit- Freedom Camping river withafrigidmountain bush reserve Park drive.but SH36isalsoapleasant Either wayyou’llendup in Wairoa. Tiniroto.coast ortake SH36inlandthrough fronted withachoice: followSH2alongthe Heading southtowardsNapieryou’re con- GISBORNE TOHAWKESBAY 376 SH2 runsafew kilometres inlandfrom route isthebetterThe coastal choice, SH2 continuessouth toNuhakaatthe As youcontinue alongSH2keep aneye Moonlight Lodge Opposite thespringsare the 10am-5pm) , 49kmfromGisborne,isapeaceable AKSBY • ai HAWKES BAY ••Mahia , 18kmfurthersouth,are worth burbleupfromafaultlinein Morere Springs ScenicReserve Springs Morere Kahungunu Marae Kahungunu . Youcanget adecentview Morere HotSprings Morere

( % 06-837 8824;moonlightlodge@ h

( Sep-Jun; % (Ihaka St) (Ihaka

06-837 8792;

( Doneraille % p where Morere . From 06-837 ) Taane- isa . You Te Te counts asitsnearest neighbour aresident MAHIA plans, it’sagreat place to head. putting adampeneronyourbeach holiday a rosé-tinted wineglass.Iftheweather’s appealing,andisbestviewedthrough oughly butthor- It’ssmuglycomfortable sessions. wine andarchitecture are theshared ob- lifestyle channel cometolife –food,TV rangestainous and wild forests. clude fertile farmland,surfbeaches, moun- region thatstretches southandinlandtoin- eastern flank.Addan‘s’andyou’ve gota like bitten it’sbeen outof theNorthIsland’s Mahia Peninsula Kidnappers, looks toCape of water thatstretches fromthesunburnt Hawke thenamegiven Bay, tothebody HAWKES BAY rainbow gleamof the gift shop. Rd; tours$7.50; Farm ism. Nearby,youcantouraworking optingforasimplereal- traditional carving, a apexof warriorholding house’s astanding atthe the street youcannote thecarving owns it. It’s huge (comfortably sleeping six) owns it. It’s huge sleeping (comfortably beautifully crafted bythelovely fullawho and log cabinwaspainstakingly contained cowboys andIndians asakid.Thisself- ally very played cool,especiallyifyouever 435 EastCoastRd;s/d/tr/q$80/120/140/160; en bright suite rooms. It’s alovely spot,withfriendlyhostsandtwo dolphin; step downtothebeach hi. tosay 182 NewcastleSt,Taylors Bay;s/tw$100-160; latched onto shifting sands the mainland. ninsula, which wasonceanislandbefore yourowntransporttoexploreneed thepe- bird-watching atMangawhio You’ll Lagoon. drop forsurfing,diving,walking,fishing and Mahia’s strange atmospheres formtheback- Majestica vividbluesea. insunorstorm, dark-brown and sand cliffs, white sandstone spersed withconifer givingwayto stands, Mahia Peninsula’s erodedhillsare inter- Like withDover, Santorinicrossed the taiaha Cappamore Lodge Cappamore B&B Seashore The southernedge of thebayisacable

( % (spear). It’s less stylised thanmost (spear).It’slessstylised 06-837 8880;[email protected]; Opoutama h ( % 10am-5pm) ( % 06-837 5525; www.mahianz.com; 06-837 5525;www.mahianz.com; 06-837 5523;fax5583; orjustenjoythe lonelyplanet.com p pi ) isre- Paua Paua )

views aswidethedayislong.Thecoffee and atitsdisposal 72 localjamsandsauces fishing licenses and fishing licenses passes. DOC maps, internet access(perhour$5), regional of informationonthewiderarea alongwith www.bushdalefarm.co.nz; Rd; dm/d/tr 438Cricklewood $14-20; Café can rent thewholelot for $80. with twolivingareas, yetasingletraveller Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels for at this bright blue cottage, set in peaceful bluecottage, set for atthis bright glow-worms andfree are eggs whatyou’re in $30/60/90; bunks anda big TV. The backpacker dormisalarge roomwith makedressed ingingham) thisplaceawinner. (spotlessly didsee tiest toiletblockyouever $25/55/75; [email protected]; Pde;site$30,dm/d/tr 19Marine MotorCamp Riverside Sleeping &Eating 10am-4pmSat&Sun; 5pm Mon-Fri, 838 7440;www.wairoadc.govt.nz; cnrSH2&QueenSt; 10km east of town. Lagoon bank. a façadefromitsformerlifean Italianate as by donation; Pde;admission 3108; [email protected]; 142Marine Pde; 252 Marine 1931 consider atriptothewonderfullyrestored from thewrecking should ball.Filmbuffs tohave sparedsion seems buildings heritage a great idea. a warningbeaconaslandmarkwasn’tsuch town centre. Inretrospect, perhapschoosing and nowflashesproudlyattheentryto which oncestoodoff theMahia Peninsula solid kauri est alongthemainstreet, includingtheold Walkway Township River its rough-edged reputation. Anew Poor little Wairoa is tryingreally hardtoshirk pop 5228 WAIROA Book ahead for dinner. could improve, butthere isinternet access. Bushdale Farm Backpackers at The enthusiasticstaff Bird fanciers shouldexplore Like manysmalltowns,economicdepres- Up asteep driveway onMahia’s eastcoast,

Mahia Mahia Gaiety Theatre Gaiety h , attheriver mouth,and pi pis 10am-4pm Thu-Sun,dailyinsummer; h ( % Portland Island Portland h 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pmSat) 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, ) 06-837 5094;476EastCoastRd;mains 2-8pm). Perky owners andthepret- ) (

Birdsong,walks, horses, %

Wairoa Museum 06-838 3104;[email protected]; ( takes insites of inter- %

06-838 6301; riverside 06-838 6301;riverside Wairoa Lighthouse i HAWKES BAY ••Wairoa

( have awealth ) % Whakaki Lagoon Whakaki

Whakamahi Whakamahi i-SITE 06-838 6453;

( % (1877) i Wairoa (

% 06-838 h has ) has 06- 9am- , a decentcoffee and cooked breakfast. Marae celebrates Te Kooti’s exploits. Mataatua extraordinary Ruatahuna’s Nearby, ered, remains. andonlyasmallsettlement in thecountry.Maungapohatu recov- never thelastbastion oferased Maori independence politically inspired 1916arrest. Thiseffectively Maungapohatu (1366m)from 1905untilhis community beneaththesacred mountain spiritual mantle,RuaKenana, ledathriving government troops. Theclaimantof Te Kooti’s took refuge here duringrunningbattleswith Waikato Wars. Thearmyof Te Kooti( p369 ) Rewi Maniapoto atOrakau( p228 ) duringthe signed theTreaty ofwith andfought Waitangi known asthe‘Children of theMist’–never to make to waterbird taking the skies. zephyrsby mountain andtheoccasional lets, thelake’s mirrorsurfacedisturbed only dropaway to reedy in- Walks. Rugged bluffs Waikaremoana Track,oneof NZ’sGreat crucibleofa deep water encircledbytheLake of WaikaremoanaLake RipplingWaters), (Sea tares cutwithlakes andrivers. is Thehighlight Island’s largest, encompassing212,673hec- est, Te Urewera NationalPark istheNorth Shrouded inmist,mysticismandvirgin for- TE UREWERANATIONALPARK Wairoa. through that travel GisborneandNapierpass between All Getting There&Away Pde; meals$5-14; ($85). cabins in anewblockof cleanbutbasicensuite steak-and-chips. Accommodation isoffered fashioned meals like stroganoffand beef this friendlyeatery delivers simple,old- h steed available for treks. are breeders horse andalwayshave atrusty only tworooms,soget inquick.Theowners farmland 14kmwestof Wairoa. There are Sun) with itsrich historyof Maori resistance. and uncontrolledabout thiswildwoodland, ‘The BurntPenis’. There’s somethingprimal ittranslates as uneasy –andnotjustbecause The local Tuhoe people–prosaically The localTuhoe The nameTe Urewera stillhasthecapacity &Café Oslers Bakery 287 Café breakfast, lunch&dinner) Call inforanaward-winningpie($3)or Call InterCity Pakeha

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( % % h 06-838 7440;www.intercity.co.nz) 06-838 6601;287SH2;mains$12-23; New Zealanders feel slightly feel slightly NewZealanders 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2.30pmSat& 8am-4pm Mon-Fri,

( % Just southof Wairoa, 06-838 8299; 116 Marine 06-838 8299;116Marine buses buses

377 THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST services are stillprovided. yourweather Get services going redevelopment, information however 837 3900;www.doc.govt.nz; SH38; Lake WaikaremoanaLake Track here. for the and hutorcamping-ground passes information, accommodation information Aniwaniwa Te National Park Urewera visitorcentre Sights &Information favour of firearms charges. haveagainst theaccused droppedin been the incidentremain hazybutterrorist charges Atthetimeofseparatists. research thefactsof inthebushrunbyMaoriing campsdeep amidstclaimsofRuatahuna ‘terrorist’ train- 378 North (155km) To Palmerston Dartmoor 4 (35km) To KawekaJ 1 3 2 HAWKES BAY 28 In 2007armedpoliceagainstormed 20 Lake Runanga AKSBY • eUeeaNtoa ak HAWKES BAY ••Te Urewera NationalPark Wellington (292km) Kautuku 17 Swamp

Bridge Pa 23

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Rd

is, atthetimeof research, under- Apley Rd 11

To Taupo(117km);

Maraekakaho Rd Maraekakaho 13 Rd Dartmoor FLAXMERE

Rotorua (195km)

Course Gl

Golf Pakipaki en

garry Omahu Rd Omahu Aerodrome Bridge Pa Rd 45 Swamp Rd

Korokipo Rd

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Puketapu

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Puketitiri Puketitiri Puketapu Rd Puketapu Heretaunga 5 15

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5

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Rd River Taradale Eskdale h HAVELOCK HASTINGS 18 Hawkes Bay 50A NORTH 41 8am-4.45pm) 14 4

31 Pakowhai Rd

Hawkes Bay Airport

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Onekawa

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06- at Rd Mata Te Beach Westshore Maraenui

Napier Rd 40 24 2 44

2

16

Te Mata-M Te 32 33

Meeanee 3 angateretere Rd angateretere Rd 26 22 25 NAPIER Gisborne (200km) To Wairoa(104km); Port of Course Napier

Ahuriri Golf Walkers are stoves totake portable advised peratures in summer. candropquickly, even much more challenging. Atthisaltitude,tem- rain deters manypeopleand makes conditions busy soitpaysto book ahead. get annoyed.Duringsummer itcanget eyes onthelake andyou’llfindithardto queue forAllBlackstickets, butkeep your During summerthetrailcanresemble a beingthePanekiri section difficult ascent. walk israted asmoderate withtheonly terspersed with fern groves andforest. The LAKE WAIKAREMOANA TRACK Activities Rd Mill Panekiri withopenpanoramasin- Bluff, The 46kmtrackscalesthespectacular Tuki Tuki Clive 43 8 Waimarama (21km) 2

Although it’sayear-roundAlthough track,winter Tuki Tuki Rd Tuki Tuki River Awatoto 38 Beach (13km); 27 To Ocean Map (p382) See Napier Waimarama Rd

30

Haumoana Clifton Rd Clifton 6 Hawke Bay 12 Te Awanga 10 34 Clifton 0 0 lonelyplanet.com D Kidnappers Cape 3 miles 5 km

lonelyplanet.com ahrr u oWagniHt 2½hr 2hr 2hr 5hr 5hr 3-4hr Bridge Whanganui Hut toHopuruahine Waiharuru HuttoWhanganui Hut HuttoWaiharuru Marauiti Hut Waiopaoa HuttoMarauiti Hut toWaiopaoaHut Panekiri Hut Onepoto toPanekiri TimeRoute ( taxi p380 ) tothe trail heads. Bush HolidayPark ( p380 ) thentake awater Waikaremoana ( MotorCamp p380 ) orBig you have acar,itissafest toleave itatthe ited sofillyourbottlesbefore headingoff. If ofWater onthissection thetrack islim- climbing happensinthefirst few hours. in thenorth.FromOnepoto,allsteep fromHopuruahineBridgeor anticlockwise fromjustoutsideOnepotointhesouth wise Propel yourselfontothetraileitherclock- the TrackWalking i-SITEs. or offices orNapierDOC Wairoa, Whakatane $12/6. BookattheAniwaniwa,Gisborne, $25/13 peradult/childcampsites pernight, sible, regardless Hutscost of theseason. asfaraheadpos- booked DOC through along thetrack,allof which must bepre- at thecampground in Aniwaniwa. a great ideaasbreak-ins dooccur,soleave it route. Parking yourcaratthetrailheadsisn’t and fuelasthere are nocookingfacilitiesen Clearview EstateWinery...... CJ Pask...... Church Road...... Brookfields...... Black BarnVineyards...... Alpha Domus...... Otatara Pa...... Ngatarawa...... Building...... National TobaccoCompany Moana Park...... Mission EstateWinery...... Matariki Wines...... Kiwi AdventureCo...... (see40) Kim CrawfordWines...... CountryCat...... (see40) Hawkes BayWine Hatton Estate...... Gannet Safaris...... Esk ValleyEstate...... Craggy Range...... Crab FarmWinery...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Estimated walkingtimes: There are five hutsandcampsites spaced HAWKES BAY ••Te Urewera NationalPark 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B3 A4 B2 B2 B2 A3 C4 A3 C4 B1 C4 B1 C4 B3 B2 B3 B4 A4 Trinity Hill...... Te MataEstate...... Te Awa...... Sileni Estate...... Park EstateWinery...... Diva...... Clifton BayCafé...... Church Road...... (see4) Arataki HoneyVisitorCentre.... Rocks Motorlodge...... Ngatahi Lodge...... Millar Road...... Havelock NorthMotorLodge... Greenhill TheLodge...... Gannet Cottage...... Crown Hotel...... Clive Chalets...... Clifton ReserveMotorCamp..(see34) Arataki HolidayPark...... EATING SLEEPING legends.com) enced company running three- tosix-day day walkforexperiencedtrampers, kick- inclusive). Teand through Urewera (from $950 all- Waikaremoanaguided walksaround Lake wanderings. wetland and the beech andrimuforest;Hut oneway)through (two hours return, fourhours toSandy Bay Kaitawa; toLake the Bay Trail Old Maori ing at Aniwaniwa. WaikareitiLake Hut,finish- viaSandyBay (1392m). Itthenfollowsaridge downto to Manuoha point Hut,thepark’shighest ing off nearHopuruahineandheadingup transport from here. park atRuatoki,butbeaware thatthere isno RiverWhakatane andoutof thenational Valley. Youcancontinue north downthe River, MotumukaStream andWhakatane RiverWhakatane thenloopsbackviaWaikare at Ruatahuna. Thefive-hut trackfollowsthe day pamphlets($2.50). and lined inDOC’s vast boundaries,someof which are out- There are dozensof walkswithinthepark’s OTHER WALKS Walking Legends Walking Shorter walksanddayincludethe The Another major trackisthethree- tofive- Whakatane River RoundTrip River Whakatane Recreation Te inNorthern Urewera 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 35 34 33 19 Manuoha-Waikareiti Track Manuoha-Waikareiti Ruapani Circuit isanenthusiastic andexperi- B4 C4 B4 B3 B2 B4 C4 B4 A4 C3 C2 C3 B4 A3 C4 A3 A4 (four hours return) fromRosie FarmersMarket...... Thirsty Whale...... (see40) Speights AleHouse...... (see40) Roosters Brewhouse...... Gintrap...... (see 40) Westshore FishCafé...... Te MataCheeseCompany...... Te Awa...... (see21) Strawberry Patch...... Sri Thai...... (see26) Silky OakChocolate Shed 2...... (see40) Providore...... Pipi...... Mission EstateWinery...... (see14) Jackson's Bakery&Cafe...... (see35) Hohepa OrganicCheeses...... Hep SetMooch...... (see40) Hawkes Bay Glen EtiveRestaurant...... DRINKING Company...... Lake Waikaremoana Walks

( % (sixhours) including 07-345 7363;www.walking Track Waikareiti Lake , which starts , which starts isathree- 37 45 44 43 42 40 39 38 36 41 379 B4 A3 B2 C4 B4 B2 B4 C3 B4 B3

THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ

THE EAST COAST Big Bush offers back- trim cabins,acceptable 3826; www.lake.co.nz; SH38;sitesperadult/child $10/5,3826; www.lake.co.nz; .lakewaikaremoana.co.nz; SH38;sitesperperson/dm/d .lakewaikaremoana.co.nz; $10/25/80; and petrol pumps. elsewhere. Thecampalsorunswater taxis chocolate parents whiletrout-engrossed are views. Theon-site shop fillswithkidsbuying man’s cabinsandcampsites, allwithwatery this placehasSwiss-lookingchalets, fisher- cabins $42,units$72-149; (p378). the park,mostof which are extremely basic hasoverDOC 50hutsandcampsites within Sleeping &Eating 380 Korokoro

Te LAKE WAIKAREMOANATRACK Big BushHolidayPark Motor Camp Waikaremoana Lake

Korokoro Maraunui Huiarau Range Falls

Otaunoa Camping

Kotore Ground Range Range HAWKES BAY ••Te Urewera NationalPark

Whaitiri Marauiti Hut

Str To Ruatahuna(18km);Whatakane p Wai Ὀ ὈὈ National Park River RoundTripWalk(18km); Maraunui Str paoa Te Urewera

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6678; www.crabfarmwinery.co.nz; 511 Main Road, BayView; 6678; www.crabfarmwinery.co.nz; 511Main .lakewaikaremoana.co.nz) turn), withhut-to-hutpacktransfers forthe Onepoto orHopuruahinetrailhead($30re- more for travellers. consuming drive, onethat’slessfortourists, lonelyplanet.com great reds. 5pm) Rd,BayView; tastings free;valley.co.nz; 745Main off SH2(orbothif you’re spitting). atoneoftasting theexcellent vineyardsjust should safely be abletostopforarestrained the mouthof theEskRiver. Even the driver Hawkes inearnestat winecountrystarts Bay with impressive viewstowards Napier. Stream. Kareaara the White PineandTangoioBetween Reserves whekiponga (tree ferns) andnative orchids. north of Napier,hasTe AnaFalls, of stands nikau palms. Napier onSH2,bristleswithkahikatea and PineBushScenicReserve White echoing with tuiandkeruru callswhilethe is the64-hectare walks. rewarding and road you’llfind 40 minutes tothree hours. Alsoalongthis fromtheroad,ranginginlength start area. Threemajor looptracks conservation to thewonderful lage, justnorthof thelake, Pohokura Rdleads AtTutiravil- walkways andabirdsanctuary. you passunderthe whatatravestyfreight –you’llsee thatiswhen railway trackwhich iscurrently for onlyused for much of its117km.Mostof itfollowsa This stretch verdant thruststhrough farmland WAIROA TONAPIER ( lake ($30). cruises either trailhead($30return) andalsooffers Waikaremoana ( MotorCamp opposite ) to www.waikaremoana.com) Wairoa ($30 one way). less gung-ho. Italsorunsshuttles toandfrom highest railviaductin highest Australasia (95m). % Big Bush Water TaxiBig BushWater Esk Valley Estate WaipatikiRd,34kmoutsideNapier, Off Occupied byearlyMaori, TaxiHome BayWater &Cruises The Hwysurfsthecoastforlast 25km, Tangoio Walkway 0800 469879) isalovely spotforapicnicand some Bellbird BushScenicReserve Crab Farm Winery Tangoio Falls ScenicReserve provides a similar service. HAWKES BAY ••WairoaToNapier Opouahi ScenicReserve Opouahi Mp p378; (Map

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( % % 06-878 2150;www i h 06-834 2590;www ) 10am-3pm) 7781; www.hawkesbaymuseum.co.nz; 65 Marine Pde;adult/ 65 Marine 7781; www.hawkesbaymuseum.co.nz; child $7.50/free; similarities toCopenhagen’s bodiment of theduskymaiden.She has her her overly pert breasts she’s theperfect em- Hayworth’s hair. Withatikilyingbetween her forcedtoothysmileframed byRita folklore looksalittleMaori andalotDisney, Thistragi-romanticfigurestatue. fromlocal tre is park. marine and a swimmingpool,aquarium,museum parks, sunken gardens,aminigolfcourse, Alongitslengthareearthquake survivors. dotted with motels andrestored timber Marine Pdeisaneleganttree-lined avenue MARINE PARADE guided tours, see p385 . of Napier,see p384 onArtDeco ; fordetails the dome.leadlight the brassgrillsand,coupledwithapples,on fling butthere theyare againonthecolumns, andcigarettes roses The linkbetween isbaf- handles andenter intothefirst tworooms. brassdoor possible topullontheleaf-shaped entrance. Duringbusiness hours it’s curved frametheelegantly rushes) andgrapevines motifs of ArtNouveau. raupo(bul- Roses, it combinesArt-Decoformswiththenatural the portisaNapiermasterpiece. Builtin1933 p378 &OssianSts; ; cnrBridge tiling. terracotta with plastered walls, arched windowsand mud-brickSpanish Missionimitates adobes, Miami Vice sionally, Maori). Soft pastel colours (think ancient motifs(Mayan, Egyptian and,occa- lines,streamline speed ziggurats, shapes and bolts,sunbursts, zigzags, lightning fountains, Industrial Arts.TheDecoisinthedetail: ofExposition Modern Decorative and headlines atthe1925Paris International raison d’être grew fromtheruins,givingNapieranew fresh Acohesive start). architectural vision contemporary (residents wanted tomake a i 2005. in including having stolenandrecovered been killed manyduringtheearthquake) and For a self-guided ArtDecowalking tour For aself-guided The The Art-Decoarchitectural stylefirst made Near the fountain northofNear thefountain thetowncen- The excellent Pania of the Reef Pania oftheReef National TobaccoCompanybuilding ) are another Decogiveaway. . h 10am-6pm) Hawkes Bay Museum BayMuseum Hawkes (1954),Napier’siconic h hasanimpressive Mon-Fri 9am-5pm) Mon-Fri Little Mermaid (

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, THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST .churchroad.co.nz; 150Church Rd; ad mosaics. and including ancientamphorae wine museum and underground a vatswhich nowhouse thewinery2pm and3pm) lead through founded in1897. Tours ($12;10am,11am, tory tours at10.30am and 2pm. NZ’s oldest.Tastings are free, asare thehis- wine; it’sHawkes biggest wineryand Bay’s producing alotmore thancommunion (1880)order, isagrandformerseminary Mon-Sat, 10am-4.30pmSun), www.missionestate.co.nz; 198ChurchRd; (p387). fringe. Theybothhave excellentrestaurants ated inTaradale onthecity’ssoutheastern vineyards are nearlyneighbours, situ- acclaimedandhistoric twohighly These WINERIES in human years. she feels like it–she’s theequivalentof 160 minutes, 10.30am and2pm)butonlywhen the twice-dailyshows(adult/child $11/6,30 dolphin incaptivityNZ,whotakes partin in thewild.Oneof isKelly, these thelast survive and othermisfitswhowouldnever birds disabled shop –housingblindseals, the oceanicequivalentof a sheltered work- in 1974)andnowoperate asamarinezooand since repented (thelastdolphin-nappingwas was considered great familyfun.They’ve long dolphins andforcingthemintoshow business 4.30pm) penguin recovery workshop$18,dolphinswim$50; Pde;entryadult/child$6/3,tour$18/9, 290 Marine 8.30am). to overnight sleep even withthefish($39,6pm sharks(dive $63,gear hire $31).Youcan of) swim with(orget marriedinthepresence leave at9amand1pmqualifieddivers can theScenes’tours (adult/child $28/14) ‘Behind fish. andawholelotta kiwis,tuatara eels, roof. Insideare crocodiles,piranhas,turtles, a moderncomplexwithstingray-inspired adult/child $15/8; Pde; 834 1404;www.nationalaquarium.co.nz; 546Marine earthquake filmis moving.deeply temporary exhibitions,whilethe35-minute Kahungunu artefacts. Galleriesaccommodate Maori artandculture featuring Ngati section 384 Marineland Marineland ChurchRoad Winery Estate Mission The AKSBY • air HAWKES BAY ••Napier isarelic fromanerawhencapturing National Aquarium of New Zealand ofNewZealand National Aquarium

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Mp p378; (Map owned bytheMarist % h 06-844 2053;www 9am-5pm) % h 06-845 9350; 9am-5pm ( h % was 10am- 06- is nary Hotel Masonic Thisfacesthestriking is neon-litatnight. the domedclocktowerof the sically Decooutdoorstage. Acrosstheroad colonnades isthe of theReef new technologies like Past neonlighting. ebrated the electricalage, makingthemostof simple structure islavishly lit.ArtDecocel- sure toreturnPde. Be whenthe atnight Walking Tour river. the St. TurnleftintoSpringfieldRdjustbefore southwest onTaradale RdandGloucester surrounding countryside. Fromthecityhead cal remains andprovides terrific viewsof the hour-long loopwalktakes inthearchaeologi- (fortified village; Map p378 ) site tolife. An gate helpbringthis posts) andacarved carved Wooden palisades, OTATARA PA port, andacircuitousroute to the top. hours, there’s facedowntothe asheer cliff Hill(102m).Openduringdaylight from Bluff There are magnificentviews over Hawke Bay BLUFF HILLLOOKOUT Centre Centre Ahead onTennyson Stistheimpressive above intheleadlight and glasses thedoor. the stretch. AtClive andtrundlepast Sqturnright to admire thefaçadesonthiswonderfulretail and originalterrazzo flooring and leadlights. Urban Angel, haspastel zigzagsonitsfaçade corner the club andmassage parlour. Ontheopposite complexity –it’snowastripand lead-light hues of the ontoDaltonSttoadmireright theflamingo rations of theold (8) and stuccoof theformer you’ll findthedeluxe Moorish-Spanishspirals laneway besideDymockstoDickens Stwhere fine exampleof Spanish Mission. the plasterwork of theinterior. Acrosstheroad porated into boththefaçadeandelaborate atthe Start . Checkoutthefinesunburst windowdeco- Turn leftbackontoEmerson Stand lookup Continue downEmerson andtake the Head along Emerson Sttotheextraordi- Provincial Hotel Provincial Criterion Art Deco Backpackers DecoBackpackers Art Criterion ASB Bank(6) ( 13 ; opposite ). ( Kidson’s Building(11) Kidson’s Hotel Central (10) Central Hotel 2 Tom Parker Fountain(1) Tom Parker ; p383 ), theformalgardensand ( 5 ;

p387 where Maori motifsare incor- (12) Soundshell (3) State Cinema(9) State ). ; note thewinedecanters Gaiety de Luxe Cinema deLuxe Gaiety , allzigzagswagger pou lonelyplanet.com , which houses , which houses T&G Building(4) , withitsclas- ( , thenturn 7 (memorial onMarine ; p386 )

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with its Marine Pde 1 3 START AMP and 2 St 8553; 42 Marine Pde;adult/child$7/5; 8553; 42Marine Sat, 8am-10pmSun) pool, waterslides, spasanda kids’ pool. ises canyoning,cavingises and kayaking trips. at 2pmdaily. Theexcellent walksinclude www.artdeconapier.com; 163 Tennyson St; Adventure Co Adventure Spiderman ontheclimbingwallat ($20) leaves the i-SITE dailyat10am; thetwo-hourversion Its one-hourDeco walk($14)departsthe protects thecity’sarchitectural heritage. Napier’s ArtDecoTrustpromotes and Tours ‘Art Ducko’ tour. that headsinandoutof thewater ona(groan) h i-SITE;1-hrtouradult/child departs countryduck.com; Wine CountryDuck Theyalsorunthe food cruises. schmoozes outontoHawke ondaily Bay lunch/dinnercruise$55/60; Ahuriri; 946 322;http://cat.hbwinecountrycat.com;WestQuay, accommodation on site. spoken withreverent enthusiasmandthere’s ($65 to$150).‘Fishing’ isawordyou’llhear trekking, white-water raftingand kayaking ley.co.nz; McVicarRd, Te Pohue) is h adult/child$15/12; -adventure.co.nz; 58WestQuay,Ahuriri; $10/8). (adult/child along Marine Pdetheyalsohire rollerblades Wars collectionirresistible. Ifyoufancyaspin Star of nerdtastic adultwillfindthetotally kind acertain is oneforthekids,although 10am-6pm&7-9pmSat,Sun) 5.30pm &7-9pmFri, 10/over 10free/$4/6; h $4; adult/child$4/3,waterslidesunlimitedrides Onekawa; ( spa, gym and café. front poolcomplexthatincludesabeauty to head Otherwise ( p396). to thesurfbeaches southof Kidnappers Cape Westshore swimming; localsheadnorthof thecityto Napier’s pebblycitybeach isn’tthebestfor Activities % Mountain Valley Fifty kilometres northof NapieronSH5 ifyou’re tochallenging anycloser See Sk8 Zone Hawkes Bay Wine Country Cat BayWineCountryCat Hawkes To thesouthof town 10.30am, 1.30pm&3pm), 3-9pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pmSat&Sun) 3-9pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pmSat&Sun) 6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 06-834 4150;www.napieraquatic.co.nz; Rd, Maadi Mp p378) (Map ( %

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THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST e p390. see and surrounding areas. .decoaffair.com; tours$20-90) ingly eccentric Bertie, cladinfullperiodre- ingly eccentricBertie, Dinners, dances,drinks,balls,bandsand Estate ( p384 ) holdsthepopularopen-air more anentire suburbof holidaymakers, this $72-170; sites $17, units St,Marewa; Storkey www.kennedypark.co.nz; from the pool. isbanned andpeeing’ if‘sex fun place–even street, withtent sites onthebacklawn.It’sa onaquietsuburbanneighbouring houses d $58-72; .co.nz; 53NelsonCres; sitesperperson$16,dm/tw$24/58, Aqua Lodge BUDGET Sleeping Hawkes ( Bay p391 ) in early February. hosts etc) tobeltout some classics. (TomJones,RodStewart, EricClapton star $99-190) .co.nz; tickets Concert Mission omnipresent. is (above ), ambassador Napier’sArtDeco shenanigans. Bertie, Gatsby-esque fancydress with filltheweek Weekend Hastings co-hostthesensational ofIn thethirdweek February, Napierand Festivals &Events waytours.co.nz; half/fullday$65/135) Napier and Hastings ($60). tours of aswellhalf-day the DecoCentre, Hill ($38,75minutes) inconjunctionwith ‘The DecoTour’of thecity,Marewa andBluff Tours galia. Inalessspandanglyminibus, Buick with through-and-through. Deco suburb southwestof Napier’scitycentre, and ($5) and DecoWalk Art nalia, includingbrochures fortheself-guided refreshments. and an introductoryspiel,DVDscreening 386 For listingsof Hawkes winerytours, Bay Ferg’s Fantastic Tours inacherry-red fantastic Trip thelight 1934 stocksassortedThe DecoCentre parapher- Kennedy Park Top10 Resort Kennedy Not tobeoutdone,Church Road( p384 ) In late February/early March, Mission

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teresting architecture andacentrallocation www.archiesbunker.co.nz; 14HerschellSt;dm/s$23/40,d 9933; www.napierprison.com; 55CooteRd;dm/s$23/43,d 9933; www.napierprison.com; than ‘OhGod,let me out’. ofgenders ‘OK,I’msafe now’rather asense windowless) butitsimpressive en- security tel. bunkerlike Itisindeed (someroomsare Archie’s hos- isamodern,well-maintained $50-58; luxurious lounge. TV ard kitchen, alandscapedbarbecuearea and furnished spotlessrooms,arestaurant-stand- moneyhasgoneintowell- of town.Serious inthecentrehabits twooldhillsidehouses Slick urbanhostelling atitsbest,Wally’sin- Cathedral Ln;dm/s/tw$22/35/50,d$55-60,tr$66; dogs and free internet. acoupleofhammocks, pizzanights, lazy ing. There’s abarbecuecourtyard,murals, it’ll probably smellthatwayagainbymorn- fill oneof thesmalldormroomswithblokes d $50; 6242; www.stableslodge.co.nz; 370HastingsSt;dm$17-24, nice. be alargerimaginable, although kitchen would facility to town(2.5kmout)andhasevery ing scene. campingground It’stheclosest Top 10parkistopdogontheNapiercamp- great choice ifyou’re lookingfor seasonal phere hostel. atthiswell-maintained It’sa to create acommunalgood-time atmos- d/tw $59-66; Pde;dm$25,s$39-45, 217Marine .napierwaterfront.co.nz; downstairs offersbrasserie deals for guests. Napier’s bestSpanishMissionspecimen. The the impressive internal features of whatis fectly. Thevastcommunal area showcases you’re criteria after, per- theCrifitsthose $24, s$32-40,d/tw$55-70,tr/q$78/104; 48EmersonSt;dm 835 2059;www.criterionartdeco.co.nz; 9.30am and3pm(free for inmates). hour tours (adult/child $15/10)leave at memorable. Guidedone- but it’scertainly graves.unconsecrated Itwon’tsuiteveryone ahangingyardand stone walls,ganggraffiti, sioned in1993)hascreaking celldoors, high verted Victorianprison(onlydecommis- & tw$56; Waterfront Lodge Waterfront DecoBackpackers Art Criterion Backpackers Napier Prison Archie’s Bunker Wally’s Backpackers Stables LodgeBackpackers i i i ) Formerly an actual stables, ifyou Formerlyanactualstables, ) Onestreet backfromthewater, i ) Unavoidably macabre, thiscon- ) The affable hostsworkhard Theaffable Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

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) right intheheartofright town.Infact,itmaywell Trading onitsDecoheritage, theMasonic is [email protected]; 283 Marine Pde;tw$125,d$135-160) [email protected]; 283Marine onic.co.nz; cnrHerschell&Tennyson Sts;s/d/tr$90/120/150) quake-survivor with a seemingly endlessram- withaseemingly quake-survivor friendly YHA inabeachfront earth- ishoused Pde;dm$27-29,s$35d&tw$64; 277 Marine outthe weeding dodgy ones. work –theyactively vet potential employers, lonelyplanet.com free gymand laundry,andit’s 80mfromthe row. Interiors are corporately comfy,there’s a ings have thebar onWestshore’s raised motel $140-175; .therocksmotel.co.nz; Quay,Westshore; unit 27Meeanee as a B&B. earthquake andinitslatter dayincarnation the asolidoption,having survived itself wooden villaonthewaterfront hasproved andfriendly,thistwo-storeyComfortable the swanky guest lounge. tippleontheveranda,sunset which opensoff bathrooms orensuites. It’shardtoresist a tasteful periodelementsandeitherprivate and afairbitof ocean.Theelegant roomshave –which ismostofof thetown allshesurveys 150) Tce;s$110-120,d$130- 5Seaview 0202; [email protected]; don’t add to it. charm butthewornfurnishings certainly block. Theold-fashioned roomshave period restaurants upmostof andpubtaking acity be and twoothers thatshare a bathroom. views. Theguestfloorhasoneensuite room andleafycity commitment tosustainability nature andcolour,thismeat-free B&Bhasa $90-100, d/tw$120-130; Rd;s ,Milton 18bMilton www.the-green-house.co.nz; copia of artefacts and exotic flair. Indian andTurkish), decorated withacornu- three richly coloured themedrooms(Chinese, $120/135) Pde;s$90,d$100-120,tw/tr [email protected]; 281Marine Breeze Sea MIDRANGE nook andasunny rear courtyard. street. There’s afabulousoverhanging reading ble of rooms;trytobookonebackfromthe theheartof town,withitsaccommodation, Napier YHA o HouseontheHill Green Rocks Motorlodge OnParade Manor Hotel Masonic This grand Victorian villa (1890) is queen This grandVictorianvilla(1890)isqueen Inside this Victorian seafront villaare InsidethisVictorianseafront pi Seaview LodgeB&B Seaview

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Mp p382; (Map % 06-835 7039;www.yha.co.nz; 685 07 seabreeze 8067; 06-835 ) Green byname, % 06-835 8689;www.mas % Mp p382 ; (Map 06-834 3885;manor 06-835 9626;www % i 06-835 4475; Napier’s % ) 06-835 beef, free-rangebeef, porkandfish dishes precede itall.Organicart-ambience’ –the promosays mains $23-34; to getenough your tastebuds buzzing. list arethe menuandcocktail flavoursome scape theinterior becomesirrelevant. Both sitting onthebalconyadmiring street- and toogrungytobechic –butonceyou’re littobebohemian the décor–it’stoobrightly $22-30; dinner butlunch prices are cheaper. contemporary menuisoffered forlunch and of interesting thebeautifuloutlook.Thesame h 198 ChurchRd,Taradale; lunch$21-28,dinner$25-32; pork,duck,prawnor beef, tofu dishes. chicken,and fresh between herbs. Choose tious flavours of lemongrass,chilli, coconut plasticflowers lighting, andthescrump- bright mains $14-19; Thai Sri RESTAURANTS Eating flapper, only much prettier. Think of Victoria dressed like itasQueen a withDecofixtures.auctions tofillthehouse vated, theowners scouringantiqueshops and superblyreno-Victorian villa(1870)hasbeen hillsidegardens,this ticulously maintained denvilla.com; 11CobdenRd;d$395-495; Champagne & Snug Bar. portrait gazesvictoriouslyover Churchill’s ner (mains$30to$36)whileWinston’s restaurant breathes refined formalityatdin- Chambers(a rare brickearthquake survivor). at thiselegantlyrestored Edwardianbuilding themasonry There’s between luxuryinfused hotel.co.nz; 12BrowningSt;r/ste$303/434; County Hotel TOP END superb oceanviews.There’s also a gym. wing maybegenerically modernbutitoffers have broken afew fishermen’shearts.The new pub intoaritzyapartment-stylehotel must $150-440; crownnapier.co.nz; apt St&HardingeRd,Ahuriri; cnr Bridge with a claw-foot bath. beach. Ifthespaunitsare gone,goforaroom Taste Taste Cobden Villa Crown Hotel Take Five Take Winery Estate Mission lunch &dinner) h Mp p378; (Map

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THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST counter foodand cooked breakfasts. ofner caféhasanappetisingselection fresh pretty Clive Sq,thissunny,gay-friendly cor- tapas $6-15,brunch$9-19,dinner$28-31; Charles St; takeaway $4-5, eatin$13-24; Charles St;takeaway FishWestshore Café QUICK EATS &SELF-CATERING sional live bandskickinlater on weekends. dishes.DJsandocca- andpasta pizzas, salads wood-firedplace, themenuscuttlingbetween 2 isacavernous barn-meets-booth kindof $9-13, mains$17-26; tortillas and fresh baking. ours Thai beef foryourattention –salads, wooden warehouse. Thecounter food clam- hipsters inahistoric inthisdeli-caféhoused Quay; mains$9-15; list. wine tion. Eitherway,plunge intotheextensive selec- menu orgrazefromtheexcellenttapas fromthemain on thisDecobuilding.Choose chic interior, check outthesunflowermotifs Thu, 10am-lateFri-Sun) bread. Maori rewana are agreatstaff hangover remedy. Trythe breakfastscoffee, substantial and sparkly streets. Thesuperb spill outontosurprised back itswindowsandletsthealternative vibe Tennyson St;mains$5-17; $5-15; Ziggzagg CAFÉS and clotted cream ($9). cream, poached limoncellosauce tamarillo, meringuewithplumice –pistachio dessert fusion fare. We’re over stillsalivating the updelicious cellarserves next tothetasting Rd, Taradale; mains$26-29; person). per speciality(upto19dishes, $35to$44 house ing Indo-Dutch mate spacesmacksof authenticity.Lip-smack- Crammed withIndonesiancurios,thisinti- Pde;mains$24-27; 409 Marine weekends andmonthly open-mic nights. menu,withlivean indulgent dessert jazzon 388 o Indonesia Restaurant Shed 2 Mooch Hep Set Provedore Church Road AKSBY • air HAWKES BAY ••Napier h special–abigbreakfast ontraditional Mp p382; (Map 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun;

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Mp p382; (Map 8am-5pm; % lunch) 06-834 0189;60WestQuay; h smorgasbords are the v % 06-844 2053;150Church Mooch withthe % The simpleroom dinner Wed-Sun; ) 06-833 6332;58West Looking outon % v 06-834 0227;112a h % h 06-835 1490;28 ) Ujazi folds 3pm-late Tue- 06-835 8303; dinner Tue & Shed Shed v )

Thirsty Whale Thirsty Pde; lunch/dinner$10/15; by elegantleadlight domes inside. isbetrayed regularly rocksout.Theshamcowboyexterior slice oftheWildWestintameeast,thisL-shaped bar Ale House main contenders are to3am).Asnight wellasShed 2( left ), the ing onuntilpeopleleave (usuallymid- earlieronweekends) andcrack- (slightly DJs orlive music,openingmid-morning sometimes kitchen,table outdoorseating, forthebigmatches, repu-fire, huge TVs ultramodern décor,nauticaltheme,open rant. Mostof thebars are interchangeable: p378 ) isNapier’smainentertainment quad- The upmarket WestQuaycomplex(Map Drinking wine and ice cream. localfruit,vegetables,and sells meat,bread, park underneaththeDailyTelegraph building Tennyson St; cheap and incredibly filling. and watch thechef sizzleitupforyou.It’s and yourchoice of chicken, porkortofu beef, your bowlwithvegetables, noodles,sauces gulls on the beach. claimed fish-and-chips andcontend withthe here. grabsomeof Otherwise theac- served cutlery,propersit-downmealsareneeds Wed, lunch&dinnerThu-Sun) the Hawkes complex, this Museum Bay $12/7) Pde;adult/childtickets .co.nz; 65Marine Cinema Century Entertainment Latitude Live Rosie O’Grady’s Head Brazen music. More raucous options include: regularhas pooltables, andlive quiznights scotch.spot foralate TheCri( night p386 ) pickwhileChurchill’stail ( p387 ) isarefined come change of pace. a sophisticated littlewinebarthat’sawel- lv music. live in thegapsbetweendimlylitcornersandintermittent fills Irishness megaplex,Rosie’spredictable the Masonic get through a few. beers are goodandtheoutdoordeckisabrazenspotto bar, butthe machines compromisethevibeatthisIrish Back intown,TasteBack ( p387 ) isagoodcock- The weekly Wok UWant

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( ( % 8.30am-12.30pm Sat) % ( ( 06-834 1188) Mp p382; (Map % % ( % 06-834 3587; 21 Hastings St) Poker 06-834 3587;21HastingsSt)Poker 06-835 5545;53HastingsSt)A Farmers’ Market 06-835 8815) 06-835 8689; Hastings St) Part of 06-835 8689;HastingsSt)Part 06-835 7781;www.centurycinema h If you’re thetypewho Gintrap % lunch &dinner; . Provedore ( left ) is 06-835 5055; 131 Marine 06-835 5055;131Marine andthe isheldinthecar- lonelyplanet.com

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Mp p8 49 p382; (Map 06-835 0199) v Part of Speights ) Stack Stack , via Taupo ($34to$43,twohours), Gisborne hours) depart dailyforAuckland($84,seven -airport.co.nz) -airport.co.nz) St &CathedralLn)Ten stallsintheonestunning building. Pde; Nga Taonga Gallery aMaui Shopping films andhostsplays classical concerts. cinema screens andinternational art-house lonelyplanet.com 55 minutes) viaTaradale (adult/child $2.90/1.40, clude to/fromHastings (adult/child $5.70/2.90, Hastings andHavelock North.Useful routes in- covering Napier, the Nimbuslocal service, Nimon &Sons BUS Getting Around five hours) viaWaipukurau ($8, one hour). to/fromWellington($35, has adailyservice route viaHastings and Taupo. (www.nakedbus.com) advantage of $1advancefares on hour). one ($19, 25minutes) andWaipukurau($25, and Wellington($35,5½hours) viaHastings ($41, fourhours) viaWairoa($29,2½hours), 8-11.30am&12.30-1.30pmSatSun). 5pm Mon-Fri, Centre Napier Travel InterCity BUS Sunair Aviation Ltd Air NewZealand BayAirport Hawkes AIR Getting There&Away Napier AntiqueCentre Decorum stores. antique pletely bonkers inNapier’snumerous ( p385 ) withspare cash, theycangocom- feather cloaks (around $1900). contemporary glasssculptures andtraditional Maori includingwoodencarvings, artforsale minutes) andHamilton($290, one hour). flightsonweekdaystoGisborne($250,45 direct .nz) Offers Sts) Antiques,vintageclothesandcostume hire. (2½ hours); check website for prices and (2½ hours);checkwebsiteforprices discount fares. (55 minutes),Wellington(50minutes)andChristchurch flightstoAuckland cnr Hastings&StationSts)Dailydirect Bay Xpress If you’re superorganised youcantake If Deco devotees survive the Deco Centre theDecoCentre survive If Decodevotees h 10am-3pm) ( (www.intercity.co.nz) % is 8kmnorthof the city. (

06-835 8951;cnrTennyson &Herschell % ( % ( hasawonderfulcollectionof HAWKES BAY ••Hastings&Around % 06-877 8133;www.nimons.co.nz) ontheAuckland/Wellington 0800 422997;www.bayxpress.co.nz) ( ( (

% % % 06-833 5400;www.airnz.co.nz; ( % 06-834 2720; Munro St; 06-834 2720;Munro 07-575 7799;www.sunair.co 06-835 3427;www.hawkesbay ( % 06-835 9865;CnrTennyson operates fromthe 06-878 2150; 131 Marine 06-878 2150;131Marine Naked Bus Naked h Buses Buses runs runs 8am-

.co.nz) Havelock North issouthwest of Hastings. Clivepassing through asitnears thecoast. the tracks.SH2heads northeasttoNapier, main commercial stripsoneithersideof line, withHeretaunga and West the StsEast Orientation Mata Peak keeps egos in check. atmosphere. Thetoweringbackdropof Te wine wives siplattes inaprosperous village the streets asbleached-blonde 50-something Roverssuburb. Range andBMWscruise daysit’seffectively Hastings’these ritziest Havelock Northfrom Hastings, although true. come surrounding districtthatepicurean dreams isn’tespeciallyinteresting.itself It’sinthe But apartfromthearchitecture, Hastings buildings alsoemerged intheaftermath. collation of ArtDecoandSpanishMission bythe1931earthquakedevastated itsfine sister Napier,just20kmnorth.Similarly of theregion. Itmeansbusiness,unlike its fruit bowl, Hastings isthecommercialhub Positioned atthecentre of theHawkes Bay pop 67,443 HASTINGS &AROUND Super Shuttle Napier Taxis $13. ridewillcostyouaround A city-to-airporttaxi TAXI Thrifty Hertz Europcar Budget Avis The followingofficesare atNapierAirport: CAR (per hour/fourhours/day $5/15/25). Marineland ( p384 ) hires bikes andhelmets BICYCLE bus. the 9am and5pm.Signalthedriver andpayon Saturdays there are onlyfive between buses, from DaltonStnearthecornerof St.On Station and 5.45pmdaily,MondaytoFriday,departing 7am between 20 minutes). There are 16services Hastings’ flatgridcentres ontherailway A few kilometres of orchards stillseparate ( % ( % ( ( % % 06-835 1828;www.avis.co.nz) ( % 06-835 6169;www.hertz.co.nz) 06-835 8820;www.thrifty.co.nz) 06-835 5166;www.budget.co.nz) ( % 06-835 8818;www.europcar.co.nz) ( % 06-835 7777) 0800 748885; www.supershuttle

389 THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST 16km southof Havelock North,ispartof Centre 2pm Sat & Sun) .com; TheRoundabout; 877 9600;www.villageinfo.co.nz, www.havelocknorth Peninsula and distant Mt Ruapehu. day viewsfallaway toHawke Mahia Bay, atmosphere.meets-Scottish-Highland Clear- stone escarpments cowledinableak,lunar- trails, rickety fences andvertigo-inducing lonesomesheep to the399msummitpasses the 98-hectare Te Mata TrustPark. Theroad Heretaunga Plains, Spiking melodramaticallyfrom the TE MATA PEAK to ceramics Maori arts. and travelling exhibitions,fromphotography Hastings; admissionfree; here; bookat the i-SITE. ( The terrazzo shopfrontwithintact floors.light lookatitsintricate lead- i-SITE foracloser cnr Russell&Heretaunga StE,Hastings). stakes isthe (p386 ). Weekend foyer. Tours take placeduringArtDeco and theadditionof amodernplazaand reopened after amulti-million-dollarrefit earthquake survivor. Builtin1910,it’sjust lavish Art-Nouveau heartbetraysitasan the sturdySpanish-Missionexterior, its Hastings) HastingsStS, 873 8962;www.hawkesbayoperahouse.co.nz; is the has theupperhandhere. Crèmeof thecrop While ArtDecoabounds, Spanish Mission &ARTARCHITECTURE Sights W, Hastings) Post Office Police Station BayHospital Hawkes visitorinformationcentre North Havelock of heritage trail brochures. maps,andanexcellentseries access, free cityanddistrict h .hastings.co.nz; cnrRussellSt&Heretaunga StE; Hastings i-SITE Information 390 Rd, Hastings) % The purpose-built intheglamorousedifice second A close 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pmSat&Sun)Internet 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 0800 427846;$10; AKSBY • atns&Aon HAWKES BAY ••Hastings&Around Spanish Mission Hastings walking tour Hastingswalking Spanish Mission

Hawkes BayOperaHouse Hawkes . Although youwouldn’tguessfrom . Although Mp p391; (Map (Map (Map p391 St&Heretaunga St ; cnrMarket (Map (Map p391 ; (Map (Map p391 ; Westerman’s Building Westerman’s % h ( h h 06-876 2077;201EastbourneSt, % 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Te Peak Mata % 10am-4.30pm) % 11am-12.15pm Sat) 06-878 8109; Omahu Rd) 06-878 8109;Omahu Hawkes BayExhibition Hawkes 06-873 0500; Railway 06-873 0500;Railway 06-873 8880;www

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over grapey Hawkes Bay. tours.co.nz) ous updraughts rampaginginfromthePacific.ous updraughts north of Hastings. the NgaruroroRiver’s braidedchannels just ( .co.nz; adult/child$295/266) excitement. aquatic best thing,withplentyof pools,slidesand adult/child $25/18; ( and Waimarama,famousfortheir South of Kidnappers are Cape OceanBeach Centre. Information available fromtheHavelock NorthVisitor to twohours) are inabrochure detailed bike trails(walksrange from30minutes he). a facial features andpronebody(he’sdefinitely takes very littleimaginationtomake outhis It lies onhisbackwithheadtotheright. the fieldsaroundHavelock Norththegiant ing giant extraordinary. TolocalMaori thisisthesleep- Bay WineryTours up to $175. wineries ontheagenda; full-daytours cost at $55perperson,start withfouror five tours generally lastaroundfourhours and world are wine onwine. Motorised focused The majority of tours inthispartof the WINE TOURS (left). the SpanishMissionHastings walkingtour wine. and food ridingand,inevitably, aking, horse can arrange toursnz.com) Long IslandTours Tours ($190). courses paragliding ($140)andfull-daybeginners’ ( Plunging intooblivion, Hastings’ massive Activities % % % See alsoAbsoluteSee deTours ( p386 ) and Te Mata isa Feeling forspeed? theneed Early MorningBalloons The park’sfourwalkingandmountain- But it’stheview 06-873 8033;www.splashplanet.co.nz; GroveRd,Hastings; 06-874 3841; 10-/30-min ride $30/60) 06-874 3841;10-/30-minride 06-845 1977;www.airplay.co.nz) Te Mata ORongotaha concentrate onMaori culture and marae h hang-gliding hang-gliding (

% ( % 10am-5.30pm Nov-Feb) of visits,bushwalks,kay- 06-845 2736; www.baywinery 0800 875021;www.longisland Te Mata more that’seven Splash PlanetWaterpark provides inflated views (

% 06-879 4229;www.hotair Airplay Paragliding hotspot, withseri- lonelyplanet.com hastandem . Viewedfrom Riverside Jet Riverside terrorises isthenext surf .

tours.co.nz) .net.nz) tours.co.nz) lonelyplanet.com Bike About Tours Bike you case get lost/tired/woozy): water bottle,backpackandmobile phone(in ing folksequipyou withabike, map,helmet, viticulture withalittleexercise. The follow- bicycletourwilltemper your a self-guided $35and $50forafullday, Costing between BIKE TOURS Wine WorldOf Vince’s Prinsy’s Odyssey NZ Grape Escape .co.nz) Maraekakaho Rd 4 1 3 2 HASTINGS

Stortford Ave Nimon &SonsBusStop...... Inter CityBusStop...... Air NewZealand...... Reading Cinemas...... Vidal WineryRestaurant...... Tremain TravelCafé...... Rush Munro's...... Crave Café&WineBar...... BJ's Café...... Gascoigne Hastings BackpackersHostel...... A1 Backpackers...... Westerman's Building...... Vidal...... (see 12) Hawkes BayOperaHouse...... Hawkes BayExhibitionCentre...... Post Office...... Hastings i-SITE...... (see5) TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION oieSain...... C1 Police Station......

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% Southland Rd Beresford St 0508 639773;www.odysseynz.com) Napier viaFernhill(29km) Racecourse Hospital (1.3km); To HawkesBayHospital Charles St HAWKES BAY ••Hastings&Around ( 0800 100489; www.grapeescape %

Lovedale

ὈὈ Rd ( 06-845 9034; www.bikeabout 10

% Prospect Rd Prospect Grays Rd

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9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 McLean St

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Akina Eastbourne St Eastbourne

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King St South

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Awatea St Awatea Avenue Rd West Rd Avenue Whitehead Rd Whitehead 11

Akina St Akina Hastings St South Nelson St North

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3 parades, arts, craftsand visiting artists. halfof with pens inthesecond September, .blossomfestival.co.nz) The Weekend ers dozens between of vineyards. and 10am,shunting increasingly blearypunt- and Napierinformationcentres 9am between departtheHastings,Buses Havelock North the region’s premier wineandfoodfestival. baynz.com; bus&entry$40) Bay Hawkes Harvest Festivals &Events On Yer Bike D’Vine Bike East Rd Lyndon Russell St Hastings andNapierco-hostthe Hastings ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

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4 King St North 7 Cornwall See Enlargement Park ( p386 of) inthethirdweek February. Kmart Willowpark Rd South Plaza

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5 06-878 9447;www Sylvan Rd Riverslea Rd North East St Heretaunga

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Albert St Albert

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Alexandra St Alexandra

Art Deco Art Jervois St Jervois

391 12 THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST 392

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ in summer. Tastings are free unlessspecified.See p390 forwinetours. Gimblett Gravels. The gravelly soilhasbeenproducingexcellentBordeauxvarietiesandSyrah. Flaxmere thatisill-suited tofruittrees isfastbecomingrecognised asitsownsub-appellation, feel.of thebestvineyardsstillhave Astonyarea anauthenticallyhorticultural justtothewestof billing. Elaborate modernedificeshave sprunguptohouserestaurants andtastingroomsbutsome wasmostfamousforitsorchards.Once uponatimethisdistrict Todayit’svinesthathave top HAWKES BAY WINERIES „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „

AKSBY • aksByWnre HAWKES BAY BayWineries ••Hawkes h 11am-4pm Sun) Fri-Mon) The followingwineriesare allopenfortastingsthroughouttheyear;somehave longerhours farmstead andpicnicarea. Much acclaimed bunker; shop andantipastoplatters.bunker; Tastings $5,refundable onpurchase. it’sbeenbeamedinfromspace.like Hasrestaurant, andstore sellingchocolate andcheese. Has aceramicsgalleryandbistro. Alpha Domus restaurant ( p394 ); topSyrah. 10am-5pm Sat,11am-4pmSun) Thu-Mon) Vidal Vidal Hill Trinity Te Estate Mata Te Awa Sileni Estates Winery Park Estate Ngatarawa Moana Park Wines Matariki CrawfordWines Kim Hatton Estate Craggy Range Winery Estate Clearview C JPask Brookfields Black BarnVineyards California. ( p394 ); tastings$5(refundable). restaurantupmarket andaccommodation. wines($5tastingcharge, refundableOne oftheflashestwineries–wonderful onpurchase), 4.30pm) etarian Societyapproved. Sat) Awanga; Unpretentious winerywithshow-stoppingSyrah. 11am-5pm Sat-Mon) Mp p391; (Map

Excellentmerlotandarestaurant amongsttheroses. Famous forBordeauxblends. Mp p378; (Map

h Hasarestaurant andashopsellingfudge,jams fruitwines. Hotel Lookslike Mp p378; (Map Mp p378; (Map

10am-5pm Fri-Tue) Mp p378; (Map

Mp p378; (Map Mp p378; (Map

Famous formerlot. Mp p378; (Map

Mp p378; (Map Mp p378; (Map Mp p378; (Map

Mp p378; (Map % Mp p378; (Map Quintology % % 06-872 7441;www.vidal.co.nz; 913StAubynE, Hastings; Mp p378; (Map

Mp p378; (Map Hosts day parties insummer. Hostsdayparties % 06-879 7602;www.teawa.com; 2375SH50; Mp p378; (Map % 06-879 7906; www.cjpaskwinery.co.nz; 1133 Omahu Rd; 06-879 7906;www.cjpaskwinery.co.nz; 1133Omahu % % % %

% % Mp p378; (Map 06-879 7778; www.trinityhill.com; 2396SH50; 06-879 7778;www.trinityhill.com; 06-879 7603;www.ngatarawa.co.nz; 305NgatarawaRd; % 06-834 4615;www.brookfieldsvineyards.co.nz; 376BrookfieldsRd; % 06-844 8269; www.moanapark.co.nz; 530 Puketapu Rd; 530Puketapu 06-844 8269;www.moanapark.co.nz; Usessustainablepractices. 06-879 6752; www.alphadomus.co.nz; 1829 Maraekakaho Rd; 06-879 6752;www.alphadomus.co.nz; 1829Maraekakaho 06-879 8768;www.sileni.co.nz; 2016Maraekakaho Bordeauxblend. Restaurant andaccommodation. 06-873 0141;www.craggyrange.com; 253WaimaramaRd; 06-870 4777;www.hattonestate.com;124GimblettRd; 06-877 4399;www.temata.co.nz; 349Te Rd; Mata % 06-879 6226; www.matarikiwines.co.nz; 52 Kirkwood Rd; 52Kirkwood 06-879 6226;www.matarikiwines.co.nz; % % 06-844 8137; www.parkestate.co.nz; 2087Pakowhai06-844 8137;www.parkestate.co.nz; Rd; 06-875 0553; www.kimcrawfordwines.co.nz; Clifton Rd,Te Clifton 06-875 0553;www.kimcrawfordwines.co.nz; Awanga; % 06-877 7985;www.blackbarn.com;BlackBarnRd; 06-875 0150; www.clearviewestate.co.nz; 194 Clifton Rd,Te 194Clifton 06-875 0150;www.clearviewestate.co.nz; h 9am-5pm) h Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 11am-4pm) h h

Wonderful restaurant Wonderful Rd; h h h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm) h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, h 11am-4pm) noon-3pm) h h Bigconcrete 10am-4pm) h 10am-5pm Mon- h h 10am-5pm) 10am-5pm) 10am-5pm) h Good 10am-4pm 10am-5pm 10.30am- Veg- 1890 Looks

motor camp.Perhaps it’stheminiforest basic cabinsandunitsusuallyfound ina Chalet isafancynameforthe kindof www.hastingstop10.co.nz; 610WindsorAve; sites$30, 870 1609;31Farndon Rd,Clive;s/tw/apt$55/65/90; during the season. harvest side of thecity’sconfines.Hostels fillquickly Much of thebetter accommodationliesout- Sleeping lonelyplanet.com person $15). with lotsof long-termers nextdoor(site per delusions. There’s campsite asemidetached of Christmas tree pinesthatgives italpine much there’s astereo and DVD player. maraderie. Ifthepeaceandquietgets too locale engender thebestof backpacker ca- acres of farmland.Itshomelyfeel andrural this four-bedroom 1910cottage sitsonsix s/tw/d/cottage $31/52/56/220; 1222; [email protected]; 77SchoolRd, Clive; ity to burn. sign, stream, duckpond,aviary andseren- are sycamore hedges, atopiary‘welcome’ holiday park,withinitsleafyconfinesthere units $50-230; floors. wooden andpolished hasleadlights dorm roomeven ful, attractive andscrupulouslyclean.The this converted ischeer- suburbanhouse toresembleneed indentured labourcamps, don’ttels during thefruit-pickingseason d/tw $50; Ave, 122Stortford Hastings;dm/s$23/27, [email protected]; travellers snooze in caravans. thesunroomasscents driftingthrough Mandarin divine andlemonblossomssend 1920s villahasMediterranean aspirations. dm $21-22,s$27,d&tw$50; 876 5888;www.medcasa.co.nz; 505LyndonRdE,Hastings; rural andhandyto culinary treats. mers. Ontheupside,it’scheap, pleasantly plentyof sum- camping groundhasseen ovenscourse andmuseum-piece thissmall $55-175; sites perperson$15,caravans$20-80,tw/tr/q$50/65/80,units Rd,HavelockNorth; 139Arataki arataki.kiwiholidayparks.com; HolidayPark Arataki BUDGET Clive Chalets Clive o Hastings Top10HolidayPark A1 Backpackers Hostel Hastings Backpackers ps pi Gannet Cottage Gannet p ) Judgingbyitsfadedminigolf Proving thatHawkes hos- Bay )

) Puttingthe‘park’backinto Mp p378; (Map HAWKES BAY ••Hastings&Around

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% Unspeakablycute, Mp p378; (Map ) % 06-870 0609;fax06-

06-873 4285;a1back- Mp p391; (Map Thiscolourful

) ( 06-877 7479;http:// % 06-878 6692; % % 06-870 p 06- )

876 9497; 1107 Karamu RdN;unit$120-175; 876 9497;1107Karamu dm $70,s$100-110,d$120-130; 172StAndrews Rd;sitesperperson$25, .ngatahi.com; cheesemakers, thefirst toanswer thecallof fancy foodwillsurely bethe follow.Blessed Verily it’struethatwhere there befinewine, Eating course dinnerdealscan be arranged. Breakfast isincludedandsumptuousfive- room willenticeyoufromyourluxury suite. andformaldining ings, full-sizedbilliardtable hilltop.Thelibrary, 5mceil- on asecluded Greenhill isan1895high-Victorian mansion ste $920-1240; www.greenhill.co.nz; 103Greenhill Rd;s$690,d&tw$980, rooms. Stylish, uncomplicated, perfect. ensuite twocouplesinseparate sleeps fortably made furniture com- andlocalartworks.Each swimming poolandbar)burgeon withNZ- bya cottages (separated plush self-contained is architecturally heaven-sent. Twoseriously vineyard intheTukiHills,MillarRoad Rd;apt$500; .co.nz; 83 Millar Road Millar TOP END and spas, SkyTV cooking facilities. rest. Tidy one-andtwo-bedroom unitsfeature North, thismodernmotel isacutabove the 190; 7HavelockRd;unit$135- .havelocknorthmotorlodge.co.nz; courtyards. private Some unitshave access;mosthave wheelchair back fromtheSH2onHastings’ outskirts. Optimistically Spanish-styled,Valdez isset top of the drive. cottage ($140)atthe the funkyself-contained (safely outof atStAndrews eyesight) Escape, friendsareyour straight jealoustheycanstay TV-free guestlounge spapool.If andastarlit delicious breakfasts, anopen-airbathroom,a for campingout.Completingthepicture are nooks withinthelovingly tended grounds four-beda comfortable dormandplentyof clothing-optional retreat hasstylish rooms, Havelock Norththisluxuriousmen-only, within theorchardsHastings between and Secluded this isprobably whathevisualised. doyen Sylvester sang Lodge Ngatahi MIDRANGE Greenhill The Lodge The Greenhill MotorLodge North Havelock Valdez MotorLodge p ) Smack-bang inthemiddleof Havelock Mp p378; (Map pis (Map p378 ; p378; (Map % ) ps Mp p378; (Map Confidentlycolonial,

06-875 1977;www.millarroad ( Take MeToHeaven % % p Set above Set ayoung 06-876 5453;fax06- ( % ) 06-877 1525;www ) Whendisco 06-877 8627;www % 06-879 9944; ps 393

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THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE THE EAST COAST $30; Sat) St W,Hastings;mains$8-16; smells anddreams of elsewhere. travel agency fullof travel magazines, coffee Mon-Sat; Heretaunga StW,Hastings;mains$5-11; Café Travel Tremain CAFÉS with brass heads. stags’ on theweekend. Checkoutthechandelier and pizza($10),morphs intoanightclub ($6to$8) tapas barserves The urbanecocktail heavy menufocusingonlocalingredients. ($20). flight’ plate ($46)matched withtheTe Awa‘wine inforthefive-dishmay aswellsettle tasting ful localeforalazylunchtime splurge. You lookingontothevinesisawonder- servatory $26-35; service is impeccable. and Moroccanflavours themenu.The infuse wine amidhuge French barrels. Asian and seafood lamb,beef, high-quality serves & dinner) 8105; 913StAubyn StE,Hastings;mains$25-36; giant. sleeping A picture windowoffers agrandviewof the Nevis withBen andtatties neeps dering Scotscanfindsolaceinthehaggis, butwan- The emphasisisonsublimeseafood 114 HavelockRd;mains$20-30; pizza. thin-crusted dishesandRoman-style is onsimplepasta small townconventionality. Thefoodfocus furniture, at Pipicheekily thumbsitsnose pink withcandystripesandmismatched mains $15-22; o RESTAURANTS 2007. in top awardsinthenationalpiecompetitions district’s pie-makers scoopedfourof the letthepeopleeatpie.gourmet delights, The where oncecorrugated iron sheds stood. chocolate andhoney,withfancyrestaurants the vine. Hastings alandof District isindeed 394 Vidal Winery Restaurant WineryRestaurant Vidal Restaurant Glen Etive While thehighbrow munch ontheir BJ’s Café Diva Te Awa There’s goodcoffee, award-winning pies h AKSBY • atns&Aon HAWKES BAY ••Hastings&Around h

dinner) i ( Vidal’scrisplyformaldiningroom % Pipi

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06-877 5149; Napier Rd, Havelock North; mains 06-877 5149;NapierRd,HavelockNorth; Mp p391; (Map An irresistibly popularcaféand ( h % Diva hasacountry-chic, game- Therawwood-beamed con- 4-10pm Wed-Sun; 06-877 8993; 16 Joll Rd, Havelock North; 06-877 8993;16JollRd,HavelockNorth;

% Mp p391; (Map % h 06-879 7602;2375SH50;mains Mp p378 ; (Map 06-870 4440;127Heretaunga h 6am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7am-3pm 6am-5pm Mon-Fri, Mp p391; (Map lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) % v h 06-878 4149;314 % ) Shockingly breakfast &lunch 06-877 0008; jus % h ($14). 06-876 lunch

4pm Sun) pies$4-6; Rd, HavelockNorth; the bestpiesin the country. up locallymadeicecream since 1926. chocolatiers atworkwhiledeliberating Havelock Rd;icecreams $3-4; glass of vino. platter inforacheese anda settle Otherwise whateversult andpurchase takes yourfancy. the cheesemakers the endre- atwork,sample 393 Te Rd,HavelockNorth; Mata Te CheeseCompany Mata SELF-CATERING coffee.takeaway You canpickyourownberriesorgraba its red offspring intodeliciousicecreams. 8.30am-5pm Sun) Sun) St W;icecreams $3-4; Rush Munro’s QUICK EATS befits the wine-bar moniker. with nouveau-Italian flair. Awidewinelist steaks andvegetarian pastas, dishessalads, contemporary bistroprepares simplequiches, Wed, 8am-7pmThu-Fri; StS,Hastings;meals$11-17; 108 Market clrfc café. calorific odd ancientMayan artefact. There’s alsoa offers achocolate-drenched historyandthe (adult/child $8/5) rugby balls.Themuseum over andchocolate mouth-watering truffles 10am-4pmSat&Sun) Thu, 9am-4pmFri, 845 0908;1131LinksRd,Waiohiki; sticky cyclefromflower to jar. cive hands-ondisplaysoutlining thewhole your toastorskin.There are kid-condu- h Rd,HavelockNorth; 66Arataki 7300; www.aratakihoney.co.nz; candles and clothing. organiccious cheeses, fruitandvegetables, products producedonsite –includingdeli- theshopofferswith intellectual disabilities, Part of aSteiner-based communityof people Rd,Clive; 363 Main ward, central café. and loadsof counter foodatthisstraightfor- Silky Oak Chocolate Company Silky OakChocolate Cheeses Hohepa Organic Strawberry Patch Jackson’s Bakery & Café &Café Jackson’s Bakery Arataki Honey Visitor Centre Centre HoneyVisitor Arataki 9am-5pm) Crave Café &Wine Bar Café Crave Rush Munro’s is a Hastings icon, serving Rush Munro’sisaHastings icon,serving Judge for yourself whether these areJudge whetherthese foryourself Stockuponbuzzyby-productsfor Mp p391; (Map This strawberryfarmmorphs h h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pmSat) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, v noon-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pmSat& noon-5pm Mon-Fri, (Map p378; (Map % ) With minimalfuss, this h Mp p391; (Map Mp p378; (Map ( Mp p378; (Map 06-878 9634;704Heretaunga h % h 6am-5pm Mon-Sat,6am- 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 06-877 5708; 15 Middle 06-877 5708;15Middle Mp p378; (Map 10am-4pm) h lonelyplanet.com Mp p378; (Map h % % % 9am-5pm Mon- % 8am-3.30pm Sun- Watch the 06-877 1350; 06-878 8596; 06-875 8282; 06-870 0426; % Watch % 06-877 06- a monstrousarrayof beers available tap at when there’s allthisfresh localproduce h Rd,Hastings; BayShowgrounds,Kenilworth 5087; Hawkes BayFarmers Market Hawkes around? Forarange of thebest headtothe lonelyplanet.com ad Waipukurau. and the Auckland/Wellington route viaNapier fares from be abletotake advantage of the $1advance stop isnear the i-SITE. ( p389 Hastings) alsopassthrough –thebus (www.bayxpress.co.nz) office incentral Hastings. hasan minute drive away.AirNewZealand Napier’s Hawkes Airport( Bay p389 ) isa20- Getting There&Away $13/9) .readingcinemas.co.nz; adult/child 124Heretaunga StE;tickets regular programmeof musicand theatre. Hawkes ( OperaHouse Bay p390 ) offers a Entertainment (opposite ). Diva and anopenfire blazes winter.through local winesbytheglass.Thefoodishearty mutually appreciating boutiquebeers and drinkers,crowd of young’unsandseasoned dinner) lunch$13-20,dinner$25-30; Havelock North; night. Thursday its live music,it’stheplacetobeona big pub-grub plates ($13-20).Knownfor this dark-woodfamilypub,which serves Dr,HavelockNorth; & Porter dom ‘farmyard’ aesthetic. tive-free forminimalhangovers) andaran- quality batch-brewed (preserva- beers ontap Rd; 1470 Omahu after ahardday’swine tasting. There are plentyof spotstokeep thebuzzalive Drinking producers. local The Market Vineyards( atBlackBarn p392 ). Why waste yourtimeinsupermarkets If you’re quickoff the mark youmight InterCity Cinemas Reading also Crave ( WineBar See opposite ) and Loading Ramp Rose Brewhouse Roosters 8.30am-12.30pm Sun) Bigscreen blockbusters. Hawkes BayFoodTrail Thisheadytimberspacepullsamixed

& Shamrock

(www.intercity.co.nz) Naked Bus Naked h HAWKES BAY ••CapeKidnappers 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) ( % buses servicing Napier servicing buses Mp p391; (Map

( ortheVillage Growers % 06-877 6820;6Treachers Lane,

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h 06-877 2999;cnrNapierRd (www.nakedbus.com)

10.30am-late) Mp p378; (Map % and brochure lists 06-873 0345;www Roostershas % 06-879 4127; Bay Xpress h % There’s lunch & 06-876 on

service. The return trip takes takes The return trip four hours. before a20-minuteguidedwalkthroughthebirdboudoir. beachcarpark, Clifton trailer,departing a tractor-pulled alongthebeachon .gannets.com; adult/child$33/19)Ride Gannet Safaris Gannet BeachAdventures Gannet SITEs have schedules. All tripsare tide-dependent;theregion’s i- Tours on demand($30perperson one way). Clifton, but across theroadfromcafé in Clifton. Bike are norefreshments beyond Clifton. 16km return (twohours each way)andthere back nolater than1½hours after lowtide. It’s earlier thanthree hours after tide;start high the beach takes about twohours. Leave no best timestovisit.ThewalkfromCliftonalong the endof April they’re gone. In March theirmigration;by thegannetsstart November, tohatch. about sixweeks taking onto thebeach. Eggs arrive inOctober and winter storms castnest-building driftwood by human spectators. forthemainland,completely unphased settle usually nestonremote islandsbuthere they gannets( with gaggling p148 bigbirds ). These to kidnapCook’sTahitian boy)erupts servant Kidnappers (namedwhenlocalMaori tried tolateFrom late April, September Cape CAPE KIDNAPPERS Saturday). on 9.05am and6.05pm,MondaytoFriday(fewer (adult/child $2.90/1.40,35minutes) between toHavelockThere are 11services North child $4.30/2.10, 30minutes) –see p389 . $5.70/2.90, 55minutes) viaTaradale (adult/ to/fromNapier(adult/childinclude thebuses Hastings andHavelock North.Useful routes Square busstop(Map p391 ), covering Napier, fromtheCivic the Nimbuslocalbusservice Nimon &Sons Getting Around and 1.30pm. Enquire also about small-group Wilderness and 1.30pm. Enquire also aboutsmall-group at 9.30am toursdepart the gannetcolony.Three-hour acrossfarmlandinto child $55/25)4WDoverland trips adult/ .gannetsafaris.co.nz; SummerleeStation,Clifton; No regular gotoTe buses Awangaor The toarrivegannets start inlate Julyafter Early NovemberEarly andlate February are the Hastings Taxis

( % 021 4128666) ( % Kiwi Shuttle Kiwi (Map (Map p378 ;

( 06-877 8133;www.nimons.co.nz) % hires outbikes for$20from 06-878 5055) % (

% ( % 0800 427232;www 0800 426638;www 027-459 3669) isthelocalcab Gannets By Gannets

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395 THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE 857 7288; High St,Waipawa; entrybydonation; 857 7288;High THE EAST COAST Clifton Rd;breakfast $8-22,$18-26; Clifton collection includinga river artefacts and aninterestinghas pioneer Maori the roadnexttoa andchurch. house Across meeting carved aheadifyouwanttovisitthewonderful Call cluding James andApiranaNgata. Carroll SH2, Pukehou) Reserve liesthe Beach and Blackhead Mangakuri for surfing.Swimmingisexcellentatsandy Pourerere isolated beaches willbeareal treat. a beautifulstretch of alltoyourself these sand If you’ve hadtheexperienceof never having Sights walkways. and reserves outlining heritage trailsandDOC Unwind Country with thecomprehensive Theycansortyouout old railwaystation. Esp; Railway i-SITE in totheextremely helpful isn’t exactlythrillingbutit’sworthcalling Waipukurau (aka‘Wai-puk’),themaintown, area, rich beaches. inhistoryanddeserted of Victorianpastoralists.It’san untouristed Hastings, dotted withthegrandhomesteads Grassy farmlandstretches southfrom CENTRAL HAWKESBAY you runthe gannet gauntlet. placeforamealbeforeairy, civilised orafter the vibe throughout well-kept facilities. owners engender anold-fashioned Kiwiana less forbeachfront campingsites. Thefriendly chargesinto theaccommodation;onlyDOC This quaintapproach topricingcontinues gannet gawkers fortheprincelysumof 50c. the gannettrail.Theyoffer secure parkingfor kindof of placeatthestart end-of-the-world Rd;sites$15,cabins$40-60; 875 0265;Clifton MotorCamp Reserve Clifton Sleeping &Eating vermin-proof fence intothe zone. conservation headingbehind the (www.kidnapperssafaris.co.nz) Safaris 396 (1859), the district’s oldest. Clifton BayCafé Clifton The The prestigious

AKSBY • eta aksBy HAWKES BAY Bay ••CentralHawkes ( % Central Hawkes Bay Settler’s Museum Bay Settler’s Hawkes Central –bring your snorkel. and and h 06-858 6488;www.centralhawkesbay.co.nz; schooled manyMaori leaders in- 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, Porangahau Aramoana

brochure andpamphlets (Map p378; (Map Te College Aute marae . Between Aramoana . Between Central Hawkes Bay: beaches are allgood

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Oruawharo (1879) is a grand setting for high for high Oruawharo (1879)isagrandsetting and organic treats. excellentHavananumbers andserves coffee toysinstead ofcafé handsoutfluffy table Directly opposite Te Aute College, thiship mains$7-16; SH2, Pukehou; Gallery & Art Café Paper Mulberry Sleeping &Eating descendants of thechief itwas named after. hour guidedtours upthehill(305m)runby [email protected]; with/withoutlunch$50/65) and thesite, historic andculturalsignificanceof thename intothe tinue 4.3kmtothesign.Foraninsight andcon- withthesignposts,turnright section and go4kmtowardsPorangahau.Attheinter- Mangaorapa junctiononroute 52.Turnleft fuel-up inWaipukurauanddrive 40kmtothe kapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu matawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipuka- name isgoodforaphotoop.Toget to where buttheplacewithworld’slongest during springand early summer. private gardens which are open tovisitors sumptuous pamphlet, which outlineseight you’re atit,grab the tour fromthei-SITEinWaipukurau.While walking Pick upapamphletforself-guided fieldoffice. Edwardian buildingsandaDOC of Waipawawithinteresting Victorianand stop atWaipawa andWaipukurau alongthe Bay Xpress Getting There& Away sittings). for onfinebone china ($12; callahead tea served Oruawharo Rd) court andendlesspaddocks to wander. munal lounge iscosy.There’s apool,tennis grazing slopes.Roomsare simplebutthecom- ofthis idyllicfarmhasbreezy stands trees on far removed fromurbanstress aspossible, $16, dm$23-25,s/d/tr/cottage$35/62/81/95; Rd,Wanstead;siteperperson [email protected]; 344Lake beds and linen. high-quality home, butthecompleted roomshadcomfy continuing atthisimposingformerchildren’s 275) doaks.co.nz; 85AbbotsfordRd,Waipawa;s$140-240,d$175- Oruawharo Farmstay Lochlea Backpacker Abbotsford Oaks It’s anondescripthillinthemiddleof no- Ongaonga At thetimeof research renovations were (

% One of thearea’s ruralmansions, isahistoricvillage 16kmwest Hikoitangi Iti Hikoitangi

( % 0800 422997;www.bayxpress.co.nz) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 06-855 8274;www.oruawharo.com; 379

( % 06-857 8960;www.abbotsfor Tikokino District Gardens Gardens District Tikokino

( h % ( 7am-4pm Thu-Mon)

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pensive. beabletotake might Early-birds Napier route butisconsiderablymore ex- (www.intercity.co.nz) ($18,90minutes). four hours) andNapier($8,onehour)via route Wellington($30, thatrunsbetween lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake theDOC ’sbesttramping.See forestedThese offer someof wildernesses the rate Hawkes Plateau. fromtheCentral Bay The remote Kaweka andRuahineranges sepa- KAWEKA &RUAHINERANGES bus.com) (www.naked advantage of $1advance fares on HAWKES BAY •• Kaweka & Ruahine Ranges HAWKES BAY &Ruahine ••Kaweka runs the same Wellington– runs thesame . Naked Bus Naked InterCity

unsealed andtakesunsealed three hours return. The drive it’spartly isworthwhileinitself; Napier take Puketitiri RdthenWhittleRd. hour walkfromtheendof Kaweka Rd;from (1724m), canbereached byathree-to-five- hours. three andtakesis scenicbutunsealed around andKuripapango.via Otamauri Theroute inland fromOmahunearHastings toTaihape, ofdetails tracks and huts. Reserves pamphlets Kaweka pointof J,thehighest therange An ancientMaori track,nowaroad,runs and Kaweka Forest Park &Puketitiri Eastern Ruahine Forest Park

397

for THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE