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THE EAST COAST Lingering Incafésorexploringtheregion’S Museums Andarchitecture

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THE EAST COAST Lingering Incafésorexploringtheregion’S Museums Andarchitecture © Lonely Planet Publications 362 lonelyplanet.com EAST CAPE •• Pacific Coast Hwy 363 Climate The East Coast basks in a warm, dry climate. THE EAST COAST FACTS The East Coast Summer temperatures around Napier and Eat Macadamia and manuka honey icecream at Gisborne nudge 25°C, rarely dipping below Pacific Coast Macadamias (p366) 5°C in winter. The Hawkes Bay region also Read Witi Ihimaera’s Bulibasha (1994) suns itself in mild, dry grape-growing con- Listen to An aging megastar at the annual Mis- ditions, with an average annual rainfall of sion Concert ( p386 ) 800mm. Heavy downpours sometimes wash Watch Whale Rider (2002), then take the tour ( p373 ) New Zealand is known for its juxtaposition of wildly divergent landscapes but in this region out sections of the Pacific Coast Hwy (SH35) Swim at Tokomaru Bay ( p367 ) it’s the sociological contours that are most pronounced. From the remote villages of East Cape around the Cape. Festival Art-Deco Weekend in Napier and Hast- to Havelock North’s prosperous, wine-stained streets, the East Coast condenses a wide range ings ( p386 ) of authentic Kiwi experiences that anyone with a passion for culture will find fascinating. Getting There & Around Tackiest tourist attraction Napier’s Pania of The region’s only airports are in Gisborne and the Reef statue ( p383 ) If you’re the intrepid sort, you’ll quickly lose the tourist hordes along the Pacific Coast Napier. Air New Zealand flies to both from Go green Knapdale Eco Lodge ( p374 ) Auckland and Wellington, and also to Napier Hwy, on the back roads and obscure beaches of Central Hawkes Bay, or in the mystical from Christchurch. Sunair connects Gisborne wilderness of Te Urewera National Park. When the feral urge wanes, a decent coffee and a to Hamilton, Tauranga, Rotorua and Napier, tured with tiny inlets that change aspect with slap-up meal is never far away in the urbane confines of Gisborne and Napier. and also Napier to Hamilton. the weather. On sunny days the sea is shim- Regular bus services ply SH2 and SH5, con- mering turquoise; at other times clouds brood Authentic Maori culture is never more visible than on the East Coast. It’s probably the necting Gisborne, Wairoa, Napier, Hastings on craggy slopes and everything shifts to misty only place in the country where exquisitely carved marae ( p59 ) outnumber McDonalds, KFC and Waipukurau with all the main centres. green. Clear mountain rivers surge through steep gorges, while the summer seashore turns and Starbucks outlets combined. The locals may not be wearing flax skirts and swinging poi Transport is much more limited around East Cape ( right ) and Te Urewera National crimson with pohutukawa blooms. (flax balls on strings) like they do for the tourists in Rotorua, but you can be assured that Park ( p380 ). Maori language and tikanga (practices) are alive and well. Getting Around Unless you’re behind the wheel, transport While you are guaranteed a cold beer in any of the local pubs, wine is king here. Gisborne EAST CAPE around East Cape can be ponderous, espe- and Hawkes Bay strain under the weight of tonnes of grapes. If the weather conspires to cially on weekends, but couriers regularly link drive you off the beaches, lazy days can be cheerfully spent mooching around vineyards, Nowhere else in NZ is remotely like the gor- Opotiki with Gisborne via Hicks Bay. geous, detached East Cape. Maori community Coastal View Couriers (%06-864 4654) runs lingering in cafés or exploring the region’s museums and architecture. life is at the forefront here, with each stunning between Opotiki and Hicks Bay ($40, three bay hiding a remote marae and village. It’s a hours, 2pm from Opotiki, 6.30am from Hicks fascinating illustration of what might have Bay, Monday to Friday). Polly’s Passenger HIGHLIGHTS been if the Maori weren’t so vigorously di- Couriers (%06-864 4728) continues from here to vested of their land in the 19th century and the Gisborne ($40, 3½ hours, 6.30am from Hicks THE EAST COAST Time warping to the 1930s amidst the Art- Maraehako Bay flood of British settlers had been moderated. Bay, 1pm from Gisborne, Monday to Friday). Deco delights of Napier ( p383 ) and Hast- East Cape The pace of life is markedly slower here – Cook’s Couriers (%06-864 4711) covers the same ings ( p390 ) everyone seems to know everyone else and route ($40, 3½ hours, 7.30am from Hicks Bay, Tokomaru Bay life is rurally wound-down. It’s not unusual Avoiding being the designated driver as Anarua Bay 2pm from Gisborne, Monday to Saturday). you embark on a grand winetasting tour to see horses tethered by the roadside as their An alternative is Kiwi Experience (%09-366 of Gisborne ( p372 ) or Hawkes Bay ( p392 ) Eastwoodhill owners go about their daily affairs. The inte- 9830; www.kiwiexperience.com; $340), which runs the Arboretum THE EAST COAST THE EAST COAST vineyards rior remains wild, with the Raukumara Range four-day ‘East As’ backpacker bus leaving Gisborne forming the Cape’s jagged spine. from Taupo or Rotorua. Meeting with Maori culture in the hidden Te Urewera National Park Lining the coastline is the Pacific Coast nooks of East Cape (opposite) and Te Hwy (SH35), 330km of curvilinear asphalt Urewera National Park ( p377 ) PACIFIC COAST HWY that took decades to sculpt. The drive presents NZ’s not short on awesome drives, but few Beach-hopping between secluded gems Hawkes Bay some stupendous views: bleak, postapocalyp- beat the coast-hugging SH35 as it loops Napier such as Maraehako Bay (p366), Tokomaru tic shores strewn with driftwood and punc- around the country’s eastern fringe. You’re Bay (p367), Anarua Bay, Waimarama Hastings Ocean Beach not going to get anywhere quickly on this ( p390 ), Mangakuri and Aramoana ( p396 ) Waimarama route but that’s hardly the point. While it Mangakuri Searching for wood nymphs amongst the TELEPHONE CODES can be done in a solid six hours, you’ll enjoy Aramoana magical forest paths of Eastwoodhill Arbo- The telephone area code from Opotiki east it more if you split up the journey and linger retum ( p371 ) to Hicks Bay, just before East Cape itself, is along the way. If you haven’t got time to enjoy %07. The rest of the region is %06. the entire coastal road this time around, don’t TELEPHONE CODE: 07 & 06 www.hawkesbaynz.com www.gisbornenz.com despair. The shorter route between Opotiki 364 EAST CAPE •• Pacific Coast Hwy lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels EAST CAPE •• Pacific Coast Hwy 365 g 0 50 km ᝲᝲ 0 30 miles THE EAST COAST MAORI NZ: THE EAST COAST Whakaari Mt Maunganui Motiti Island (White Island) Cape Runaway Lottin Point The main iwi (tribes) in the region are Te Whanau-a-Apanui (west side of East Cape), Ngati Porou Mt Maunganui Beach Whangaparaoa Bay Hicks Bay 2 Waihau Bay Hicks Bay Whangaokeno Tauranga Airport Papatea Bay Te Araroa (east side of East Cape), Ngati Kahungunu (the coast from Hawkes Bay down) and Tuhoe (inland Papamoa Beach Raukokore Waikuru Island Tauranga Whanarua Bay Maraehako Bay Valley in Te Urewera). ᝲᝲ29ᝲ Bay of Plenty Ke Te Puke Pukehina Beach Te Kaha reu Rv Maungaroa East Ngati Porou and Ngati Kahungunu are the country’s second and third biggest iwi. In the late Motuhora Omaio Access Rd Cape Ὀ (Whale Island) ὈὈMotu Ὀ Tikitiki 33 2 19th century they produced the great leaders James Carroll (the first Maori cabinet minister) and Whakatane 35 Raukumara Rotoehu Ohope Forest Park Mt Hikurangi Lake Airfield Waiotahi Ri Apirana Ngata (who was briefly acting Prime Minister). Ngata, whose face adorns the $50 bill, Lake Forest Edgecumbe Beach Hawai (1752m) Ruatoria Rotoiti v Rotorua Beach Torere e 5 Whakatane Opape r worked tirelessly in Parliament to orchestrate a cultural revival within Maoridom. The region’s ᝲ30 Old Motu Coach Rd 35 Opotiki Waiaua Wa River Waipiro Bay magnificent carved meeting houses are part of his legacy. Rotorua Kawerau Whakatane River Mamaku io Airfield Mata River Te Puia Springs Rotorua e Many opportunities exist to interact with Maori culture while you’re in the region. For accom- ka Toatoa Tarawera Tokomaru Bay 30 Rv Urutawa modation around East Cape with a distinctly Maori flavour, consider Te Kaha Homestead Lodge Lake Forest Waioeka Gorge Forest ὈὈὈTarawera ὈScenic Reserve WairataὈὈMotu ( below ), Maraehako Bay Retreat ( p366 ), Mel’s Place ( p366 ) and Eastender Backpackers ( p367 ). ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ Anaura Bay Raukumara Range 2 There are plenty of excellent tours offering an intimate introduction to Maoritanga (things 5 Kaingaroa Matawai Forest Whatatutu Tolaga Bay Maori). Try the Ngati Porou Visitor’s Centre ( p367 ), Motu River Jet Boat Tours ( below ), Whale Rider 38 Murupara Te Urewera Cooks Cove Tour ( p373 ), Tipuna Tours (p373 ), Hawkes Bay Maori Tourism ( p383), Long Island Tours ( p390 ) or National Park Te Karaka Walkway Rere Waihau Beach Rockslide Eastwoodhill Waipaoa Hikoitangi Iti ( p396 ). Te Aute College ( p396 ) welcomes visitors but you’ll need to call ahead. ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲRv Te Whaiti Rv Maungapohatu Arboretum o Ruatahuna Ormond Waika t (1366m) Hang Rere Falls Gisborne Whangara The Urewera region has a long and proud history of resistance to colonisation: start your inves- River Minginui Gentle Annie Patutahi Airport Pouaka Bay Te Tapuwae o Taupo a a Whirinaki r o Hill Gisborne Rongokako Marine tigations at Aniwaniwa ( p378 ) and if you have time, visit the unique communities at Ruatahuna ὈὈRangitaiki Rv Ὀ Tatapouri Beach Reserve Whirinaki Forest Park Manutuke Taupo Huiarau Range Hangaroa Wainui Beach Makorori and Maungapohatu ( p377 ). Aniwaniwa Doneraille Park 1 Airport See Lake Waikaremoana Tuahine Point Beach Track Map (p380) Tuai Te Reinga Tiniroto 2 Young Poverty Bay For a more passive brush with the culture, visit Gisborne’s Tairawhiti Museum ( p372 ), Napier’s Lake Lake Falls Te Reinga Nick's Head Taupo Waikaremoana Marumaru 36 Bartletts Hawkes Bay Museum ( p383 ) and Otatara Pa ( p384 ), and Tikitiki’s St Mary’s Church ( p367 ).
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