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WINTER 2007 r o e G

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ILD ONTANA i WWIILLDD MMOONNTTAANNAA r

W M a M

Newsletter of the Association Keeping it wild since 1958

A Shared Vision for the Scotchman Peaks by Phil Hough

WE WHO ARE FORTUNATE ENOUGH to live in leave marks on a but none on the lips. northern Idaho and know Sometimes locals agree on a common name so that we inhabit a very special place. The Forest they know where to meet up. But they whisper Service calls it the “Scotchman Peaks Inventoried these names, because we take away a little wild- Roadless Area (IRA).” But that dry, bureaucratic ness the first time we name something—and the term is misleading. Much of the Scotchmans people who live here know it. This area remains hasn’t truly been “inventoried” at all—it hasn’t a wild place, not a series of line items in an been catalogued, defined, and entered as a line inventory. And that is its beauty, its specialness, item on a list. Many of the tallest peaks don’t even and its promise. It’s why the Scotchmans have names. Most of the basins, passes or ponds deserves to be protected, now and for all time. continued on page 4... h g u o H l i h P

Non-Profit Org. Montana Wilderness Association U.S. Postage 30 S. Ewing, Helena, MT 59601 PA I D Permit #151 Great Falls, MT P R E S I D E N T ’ S L E T T E R

CHANGE I am honored and excited to say Executive Director, and a At the same time, we’re moving Deploying Hello as the new President of restructured staff. Significantly, intently toward the successful fruition Montana Wilderness Association. during those four years the organi- of our Wilderness campaigns. We are Our organization was born in 1958 in zation grew in political savvy and in a very purposively and strategically New Skills, the spirit of such wilderness pioneers sharper focus on the acquisition of aiming at Wilderness legislation in the as Bob Marshall and Aldo Leopold, permanent protection—Wilderness!— near future. The time for lamenting Going Back and we’ve been led along the way by for our remaining roadless lands. the “Wilderness Drought” has passed. such farsighted lovers of wilderness My wife, Lynne, and I came to Now is the time for making the to Basics as Cecil Garland, Doris Milner and Montana in 1980 and organizational changes Tom “Hobnail” Edwards. MWA has have spent our entire These vast, quiet spaces, and creating the new epitomized and will always epitomize adult lives here. Our where we can still go attitudes that will end grassroots activism; we were instru- son, Joseph IV, was the drought. That goal By Joseph Scalia III mental in the passage of the 1964 born and raised in to touch our roots and is realizable, and near. President, Montana that protected 3.4 Montana. We have learn who we are—these We can almost feel it. Wilderness Association million acres of Montana wildlands always lived close spaces are a priceless gift As we move towards “in perpetuity.” We’ve accomplished to our wildlands, to humanity and are our Wilderness, grassroots a lot and are rightfully proud of our wondrous places that work remains crucial history. Yet there still exist in Montana have defined and responsibility to protect. not only to our identity, today 6.4 million acres of unprotected enriched us. These but to our success. wilderness, lands that face ever- vast, quiet spaces, where we can Member activists across the state growing encroachments on their still go to touch our roots and learn are deeply engaged in wilderness wild character. These pristine but who we are—these spaces are a campaigns, watching over and vulnerable landscapes are our priceless gift to humanity and are guarding lands not yet protected by inspiration, and our challenge. our responsibility to protect. the 1964 Wilderness Act. Our State In December we said a fond good- MWA understands the need for Council is composed of grassroots bye to Gerry Jennings as she closed humans and all other species, for wild folk, local activists who have volun- her four-year term as President at our lands and peopled lands, to exist teered their services to MWA’s Annual Convention. Gerry’s term saw harmoniously on the planet and in governing board. While we have many changes in MWA, including a our state. We’re seeking collaborative changed with changing times, revamped State Council, a new solutions that respect diverse interests our identity and essence not only in ways that are fair and equitable. remain, but march forward!

This letter was sent to Montana Wilderness Association members as an email E X E C U T I V E D I R E C T O R ’ S M E S S A G E message on November 30. We repeat it here for those members who didn’t receive it. As MWA’s President from 2002 to 2006, Gerry Jennings has been instrumental in the growth, reorganization, and great changes that MWA has been going through. She talks about the necessity for change, and how hard it And Aspens Change in the Fall… can be—but the ways in which change can bring new hope and dedication, as well…. by Tim Baker CHANGE You can choose to change or be focusing our staff resources where Dear fellow Montana Wilderness Association member: changed. Either way, change is they will make the most difference, inevitable. creating more opportunities for It is with excitement and a measure of sadness that I bring you news of changes at Montana The Montana Wilderness more success. Wilderness Association. Association is choosing to change, We’re primarily focusing on Over the next few months, MWA will be restructuring our staff so that we are better able to to better focus our resources on three areas that currently offer the conserve Montana’s special places through local, grassroots efforts. Sadly, this means that permanently protecting those most promise for new Wilderness— our 48-year-old organization will close three field offices and reduce staff. special places that define Montana. the wild country of Beaverhead- Wilderness! Deerlodge National Forest, the We are so grateful to our staff for their hard work and dedication for so many years. We are The most recent changes in magnificent Rocky Mountain saddened to lose valuable members of our team. As you can imagine, the decision to close staff structure are the culmina- Front, and the awe-inspiring E these offices was difficult, but one that we feel is in the best interest of our organization CHANG tion of a process that began Scotchman Peaks. and Montana’s wild places. over five years ago—when the Our work to help local State Council first embarked on communities protect local land- For more than 48 years, Montana Wilderness Association has engaged thousands of grass- a serious path of introspection scapes will continue. Our chapter roots volunteers to protect Montana’s special places. Together, we’ve helped preserve places and a commitment to become a structure will continue to play like the Scapegoat, the , the Absaroka-Beartooth and others. stronger force for Wilderness. a vital role, as wellsprings of This look inward raised some volunteer energy, support, and Over the last few years, we have devoted extra resources to engaging members in the hard questions, about our capacity community connection. The clear development of Forest Service plans, such as the Gallatin and Lewis and Clark National Forest and how we do our work to obtain emphasis for our staff resources travel plans. Frankly, we’ve been dipping into our bank account to do this. Now, the council new permanent protections for our will be to permanently protect has decided it’s time to start building up our bank account again, instead of tapping it. favorite places. We realized that our special priority areas through we needed to adapt to changing new Wilderness designation. As these processes wind down, MWA is shifting its resources back to its core mission: times to better accomplish our Our staff is hard working and protecting Montana’s special places. core mission. passionate about their work, and These efforts have required we are grateful for their commit- To that end, our Council voted unanimously to revise the organization’s staff structure. Doing so countless hours from volunteers— ment to . These will reduce our annual budget from $1.1 million in 2006 to $950,000 in 2007. Our full-time staff including State Council leaders, changes in structure affect every- will go from 16 to 13 and field offices in Dillon, Billings, and Bozeman will close as of February. chapter representatives, and other one, and we are sad to lose What’s the goal of this? Simple: Permanent protection for Montana’s most treasured places, MWA members. valuable members of our team. But that’s nothing new. For A unanimous Council concluded starting with the , the wild country of the Beaverhead-Deerlodge nearly 50 years, thousands of that these changes are in the best National Forest, and Scotchman Peaks on the Kootenai. With the changes, we will continue grassroots volunteers have been interests of MWA and Montana’s to serve our members across the state and local chapters in Billings, Bozeman and elsewhere, the powerhouse of MWA—indeed, most special places. because we fully understand that our members give us our strength and our best ideas. during the “golden age” of I’m going to echo the comments Thanks to people like you, MWA remains one of the oldest, largest, and most effective Wilderness in Montana (the 1960s offered by Joe Scalia, our new conservation groups in Montana. We are respected for our common-sense approach and and 70s), MWA volunteers did it all. Council President (welcome!): deep-seated love of Montana. I’m proud of MWA’s grassroots the time for talking about the tradition, and was myself part of “Wilderness drought” is over— This weekend, we will celebrate our 48th anniversary with our annual convention in Butte. it for many years—as an active now it’s time to end it! I hope you will join us as we come together to celebrate Montana’s wild places and our member, local chapter leader, The world changes, and to shared commitment to protect them for future generations. and State Council member. succeed, we must change too. That strong grassroots tradition Opportunity knocks for the Together, we have accomplished great things for Montana. With your help, we will continue carries on! Our new structure will next golden age. Let’s get after it— to do so. highlight our volunteer base and on to Wilderness! make it more effective by relying Sincerely, more on grassroots power and Tim Baker is MWA’s Executive Director

Gerry Jennings, Council President

2 W I L D M O N TA N A OFFICERS COUNCIL MEMBERS W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 Joseph Scalia III, Pete Bengeyfield, Dillon Wild Montana is a quarterly Protecting Montana’s wilderness heritage, quiet beauty, Livingston, President Polly Burke, Choteau publication of the Montana and outdoor traditions, now and for future generations. Gerry Jennings, Tom Clifford, Helena Wilderness Association. Great Falls, Tom Crane, Great Falls Excerpts may be reprinted 30 South Ewing, Helena, MT 59601 406-443-7350 [email protected] Immediate Past President Kendall Flint, East Glacier with permission. Daphne Herling, Kate Sako, East Glacier Editor: Lex Hames www.wildmontana.org Missoula, President-Elect Lynne Scalia, Livingston Design and layout: Bernard Rose, Kirk Thompson, Stevensville Real World Design We thank all who support our work with their payroll Billings, Treasurer Greg Tollefson, Missoula Wild Montana is printed deductions and pledges through Montana Shares. on recycled paper.

U P D AT E S F R O M T H E F I E L D

> ROCKY MOUNTAIN FRONT > LEWIS & CLARK NATIONAL > > UPPER MISSOURI BREAKS FOREST/JEFFERSON DIVISION NATIONAL MONUMENT STOPPING OIL AND GAS LEASING TRAVEL PLAN ON THE FRONT LITTLE BELT, CASTLE AND NORTH Five public meetings on the travel plan will RESOURCE MANAGEMENT PLAN (RMP) It’s time for a victory celebration on the Front. CRAZY MOUNTAINS TRAVEL PLAN take place from January through March in The BLM is not expected issue a final In December, legislation sponsored by Senator A final decision on the Little Belt, Castle and Billings. The goal is to determine if common decision for the Upper Missouri Breaks that will prevent all future oil and North Crazy Mountains Travel Plan may be ground can be found regarding the designation Monument until September 2007. Discussions gas leasing on public lands on the Front passed issued in April. Across the state hikers, horse- of motorized and non-motorized routes. The point to a management plan similar to the pre- Congress and was signed by the President. The back riders, floaters and skiers have expressed a meetings are a welcome opportunity for ferred draft. An unprecedented six recreational legislation will help to protect the Front’s magnifi- need to protect areas the Smith River corridor wilderness advocates and motorized users airstrips (in a national monument) may be cent , wildlife, and scenic values. The ban and adjoining Tenderfoot Deep Creek roadless to speak to each other. proposed, three of them in the Bullwhacker, on new leases will also allow non-profit groups area, the Middle Fork of the Judith Wilderness The travel plan must be completed by late described as containing “some of the wildest to purchase existing leases and permanently Study Area, and Pilgrim Creek roadless area. 2008. The anticipated release of the Record of country on all the Great Plains.” retire them, without fear the federal government It appears the Lewis and Clark Forest will Decision (ROD) and final Travel Management Wildlife security will improve somewhat could reissue the leases in the future. It’s a giant honor the winter use agreement between MWA, Plan is autumn 2008. Note: The revision covers under the new plan, but for the rest of the year stride towards permanent protection of the Great Falls Cross Country Club, Montana one of three districts in the forest, the Beartooth the high density of two-tracks will probably Front’s special, wild places. Snowmobile Association and two Central District, which includes the Beartooth Front and remain in place. The move to ban leases started as a bi- Montana snowmobile clubs. Most roadless is the core of the Pryor Mountain ecosystem. The new plan will be a step backward partisan effort, with legislation introduced by areas will be motor-free, including most of the for river use. Under the draft plan, the BLM Senator Burns in June. In December, Senator Middle Fork of the Judith Wilderness Study proposed a 57-mile long seasonal closure, Baucus picked up the ball and used his legisla- Area. Snowmobiles will not be allowed on > from June to mid-September, to all motorized tive experience and skill to guide the bill through cross-country ski trails in Deadman and Ranch watercraft. Now, despite overwhelming public the closing days of Congress. Creeks, and Jefferson Creek will be designated TRAVEL PLAN support for a non-motorized river, the agency is Everyone who loves the Front owes the for snowshoeing. The Gallatin National Forest has released its proposing to reduce the seasonal closure by Senator a huge debt of gratitude for winning Spike Thompson, Supervisor of the Lewis and Final Travel Plan and Record of Decision after 10 days and to restrict motorized watercraft this victory for one of Montana’s last best places. Clark Forest, supports the creation of at least four long years. See article on page 8. only from Sunday to Wednesday during seasonal one large motor-free block of land (80,000 acres) closure. It is unclear as to what degree the RMF TRAVEL PLAN within the forest. In the Little Belts there are values for which the Monument was created The final draft for the Lewis and Clark over 1,600 miles of roads and over 500 miles > will be honored. National Forest Travel Plan (Rocky Mountain of motorized trails, but only 62 miles of quiet, Front Division) is anticipated in mid-March 2007. motor-free trails. Use is equally unbalanced FOREST MANAGEMENT PLAN Keep your fingers crossed for a great travel plan in the Castle and North Crazy mountains. The final plans for the Panhandle and > ROADLESS RULE on the Front! MWA members advocate a plan which Kootenai forests will be released at the earliest Lovers of the Front have worked countless restores some balance. in June, after which the “objection period” On September 20, 2006, a U.S. District Court hours to realize a travel plan that protects the (a final public review) begins. It is expected in California held that the Bush administration forest’s wild landscapes and recognizes the Front that the two forest supervisors and the district violated the National Environmental Policy Act as one of America’s unique wild resources. > rangers involved in the Scotchmans Wilderness (NEPA) and the Endangered Species Act (ESA) Conservationists have had numerous discus- Proposal will meet in January or February to in repealing the 2001 Roadless Area sions, on-site inspections, and conferences with FOREST MANAGEMENT PLAN discuss areas of common interest. Conservation Rule. Further, the court ruled that forest service personnel in Great Falls, in The Lolo draft plan was released in May and adoption of the state-by-state petition process Choteau, and in the backcountry. MWA hopes the comment period ended on September 7. as a substitute for the national rule was illegal. this work will pay off in a travel plan that limits The planning team is now analyzing the public > This decision leaves the 2001 Roadless motorized use and that places the highest value comments, and will create “public concern Conservation Rule as the law of the land, and on the unmatched scenery, wildlife habitat, and statements” from the comments that will be FOREST MANAGEMENT PLAN places restrictions on most road building and solitude of this magic place. reviewed by the leadership team. The final A final record of decision was signed for the timber cutting within Inventoried Roadless plan is expected in the spring Flathead Forest Plan winter travel amendment Areas on national forest land. November 17, 2006. The decision follows the It is unclear how the administration will > BEAVERHEAD-DEERLODGE signed agreement between MWA members, respond to the court’s ruling. However, the PARTNERSHIP > BITTERROOT NATIONAL FOREST Flathead and Cutbank snowmobile clubs, and administration’s 2005 state-by-state roadless the Montana Snowmobile Association. petition rule has been invalidated, and there The Beaverhead-Deerlodge Partners are FOREST MANAGEMENT PLAN The amendment protects over 90% of are no longer any pending deadlines requiring continuing to work together, talking with other As with Lolo Forest, the Bitterroot draft plan the Flathead side of the Winton Wedemeyer immediate action by state governors. groups and refining their proposal in response was released in May and the comment period Wilderness as motorfree, as well as the Swan Governor Schweitzer has stated his commit- to constructive input. The Forest Service has ended on September 7. The planning team is Front Addition to the Bob Marshall, the Greater ment to protecting the backcountry values of agreed to consider the Partnership recommenda- analyzing the public comments, and will create Jewel Basin proposed Wilderness, and Montana’s 6.4 million acres of roadless lands. tions, and the agency will open an additional “public concern statements” that will be Additions to the in We commend the Governor for his strong comment period this spring. Both are positive reviewed by the leadership team. The final the upper Middle fork. support for Montana’s outdoor traditions and steps forward. Meantime, the Partners are plan is expected in the spring. The settlement did NOT include an wild backcountry. discussing the details of a legislative package, agreement for late season (post den including Wilderness. emergence) snowmobiling in grizzly habitat.

F L O R E N C E B A L DW IIN ,, 1911–2007 Florence Baldwin passed away on January 6 at the age of 95. With more than 75 years, and one was as staunch in defense of Wilderness her husband Ken, Florence was one of the founders of Montana as the other. With Ken, we grieve for her and will miss her. But the Wilderness Association in 1958. All of us who cherish Montana’s wild next time you are along a high Wilderness trail, and you feel a places owe her an enormous debt. For those who knew Florence, it presence over your shoulder—turn around. It may be Florence, was impossible to think of her without Ken. They were married for smiling down at you, glad you’re enjoying the wild places she fought for.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 3 A S H A R E D V I S I O N F O R S C O T C H M A N P E A K S

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l i h DURING OUR 2004 HIKE P bear, bull trout, lynx, and wolf. The of the Pacific Crest Trail, Deb and I Scotchmans is home to sensitive encountered the best and worst of species such as and what wilderness offers. In the High . Big game abounds— Sierras we walked for over 200 miles trophy and are without ever crossing a road. We common; magnificent endured three weeks of steady and black bear are found in the September rains in Washington, Scotchmans’ hidden glens. helping us to forget the days in southern California where 100- A COMMON PAST, degree temperatures and 20 miles A NEW FUTURE between water sources were the Our region’s communities share norm. But we met our “wildest” an economic past that was based on wilderness last summer when we the traditional extractive industries of bushwhacked for four days along timbering and mining. We also share the rugged spine of the Scotchman an awareness that change is coming, Peaks on the Montana/Idaho divide. and that there is a new economic Our last night of the trip brought us reality. The people of the Scotchmans the kind of intense summer rains this Summer or winter, the Scotchmans is a land of magic. region are developing a New West area of basins and divides seems to economy where people and business specialize in. There was no avoiding KEEPING THE HEART to develop and “own” the last thrive on the “quality of life” and on the wet. We slept a damp, fitful The heart and soul of the unnamed, untamed places. So con- the health of our wildlands. sleep, rain slowly filling the swale Scotchman Peaks is this high, un- cerned citizens from both sides of the We can look back to forest plans surrounding our tent. We awoke named ridge, a rugged watershed border have come together in the that produced hundreds of millions in a large pool of cold water. divide. It creates unique micro- last two years in a shared vision for of board feet a year in timber sales, Good morning! climates, separating dry slope the Scotchmans—a vision to protect recognizing the vitality and energy of Ponderosa from interior rain forest. this area as Designated Wilderness. that era—but knowing those days are This divide is so prominent that the The Friends of Scotchman Peaks past. And we are all awaiting the CANADA Idaho Panhandle and Kootenai Wilderness group was born of Kootenai and Panhandle forest plan forests ignore the north/south state this shared vision. We envision revisions due out this spring that will

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N H guide the future of the Scotchmans. A a Scotchmans that remains A line and use the divide to define their T

D N I O forest boundaries. The ruggedness of “untrammeled” by humankind. Lovers of this landscape share a

M the Scotchmans compels the two Access to the Scotchmans’ responsibility to encourage the Forest SCOTCHMAN interior is made difficult by imposing Service to recommend Wilderness PEAKS forests to share each state. This same ruggedness is bringing together com- mountain slopes, as well as by rock both for a healthy environment and PROPOSED • Troy WILDERNESS munities from both states to share in and alder choked creeks. Yet the for a healthy economy for the people • Libby a vision for this wild landscape. Scotchmans holds more than mere of the area. • These 88,000 acres of rugged “high elevation rock and ice.” These A recent study by the Sonoran Sandpoint backcountry remain pristine because steep divides are separated by high Institute concluded that counties in they have been largely forgotten— basins and deep valleys, producing the West with Designated Wilderness WILDERNESS unnamed, tucked out of sight and out great wellsprings of biological have the greatest economic vitality. of mind, just beyond the reach of our diversity, harboring numerous and Wilderness attracts people who speech and our development. What varied habitats. As a vital link in the telecommute, who relocate inde- timber and minerals exist are hard Yukon to Yellowstone Corridor, the pendent businesses, who are looking enough to get to that they’re not Scotchmans provides special habitat for retirement or second homes. economically attractive. But as our for a number of “threatened and Such immigrants bring high levels of society grows it continues its desire endangered” species including grizzly personal and investment income to

4 W I L D M O N TA N A The high peaks of the Scotchmans To venture into the Scotchmans is to provide crucial habitat for step back into time, to experience

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l i h the area’s economy. This leads to an P increase in high-paying professional jobs in such fields as architecture, finance, business support and medical services. Our surrounding communities will share in the benefits of this economic development as well as in the increased tourism which Wilderness Designation brings. But change has its bumps and detours, and it’s sometimes hard to recognize the benefits when change is occurring. We need to educate ourselves and our communities about the value of Wilderness as a vital component of a balanced strategy for managing our public lands.

CARRYING THE MESSAGE Friends of Scotchman Peaks has spent the last two years sharing our vision for protecting this special place, reaching out to residents and talking about the benefits of Wilderness to our communities. We haven’t been working alone—we share this vision with groups such as the Idaho Conservation League and the Benton Mackaye, a founding with Friends of Scotchman Peaks Hiking opportunities abound Montana Wilderness Association, member of the Wilderness Society Wilderness, Montana Wilderness in the Scotchmans, an area who fully support Wilderness and the “father” of the Appalachian Association and others. We hope renowned for its variety and Designation for the Scotchman Trail, once said that the purpose of you will join us in our vision of changing landscapes. Peaks. Perhaps most significantly, that path was “To walk; to see and Wilderness for the Scotchman Peaks! average citizens and mainstream to really see what you see.” It seems organizations in our communities simple and undeniable—the idea Phil Hough is Chair of Friends of Scotchman also share the vision. The Sanders that a walk in Wilderness can open Peaks Wilderness. Deb has walked many miles along the trails of life with him. County Ledger, the Thompson Falls our eyes more widely and allow us City Council, The River Journal, to see, to achieve a clearer vision. the Bonner County Daily Bee, the Wilderness brings clarity to our Greater Sandpoint Chamber of minds and to our senses. This clarity Commerce and the Bonner County of vision, this refining of perception IMPORTANT WORK REMAINS TO BE DONE. Commissioners have all voiced their and understanding, is why Deb We invite you to share in our vision, and to support our efforts support for Wilderness Designation and I go on long hikes, why we go at bringing Wilderness Designation to the Scotchmans. for the Scotchmans. And as I write to the Wilderness, why we go to Please visit our website at www.scotchmanpeaks.org this we are about to achieve a big the Scotchmans—to really see. to sign up as a “friend” and to see how you can help! milestone—our list of friends and That’s why we share this dream supporters will soon top 1,000! of protecting the Scotchmans

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 5 FROM BUTTE, AND PROUD OF IT... A HOMEBOY VIEWS THE CONVENTION

by Walter Walsh

LOVE BUTTE, WILDERNESS, “myth of Sun Mountain Lumber in Deerlodge, AND MONTANA—not necessarily the clean was a definite highlight of the conven- I in that order, but with great Wilderness tion. Sherm said he realized that dedication and affection for all three. bill.” The first Wilderness and timber advocates So when I found that the convention slide showed a were both being squeezed out of the for my favorite subject—Wilderness— Wilderness bill forests by motorized recreation. Sherm was going to be in my favorite town— from 1964 that was instrumental in creating the part- Butte—with my favorite people— fit onto one nership with MWA that has led to the MWA members—in December of sheet of paper, “B-D” Agreement, and he empha- 2006, well, I thought, the stars are and the second sized that it was an ongoing, evolving shining upon us. This will be a good showed a recent partnership. This is a perfect example year for Montana wildlands… Wilderness bill of the practical idealism that Doug I left Helena and arrived in the that had to be a Scott described. od time Promised Land early Friday afternoon. foot thick. Doug ent—we had a go xciting entertainm As I strolled through the Copper King explained that Great speakers, e THE BEST OF THE OLD lobby, I saw many familiar faces and unlike 1964, these and learned a lot! AND THE NEW several new ones. I was glad to see days we are dealing had to be there. But we all chuckled. My favorite speaker had to be Pat people I had never met, and I antici- with harder turf where many parties Charlie said that his goal is to “Yoda” Williams, a 9-term congress- pated that the convention would be have an interest in using the land. All accomplish Wilderness protection man for Montana—from Butte. well attended. those issues have to be addressed in for Montana wildlands. I was very Pat talked about the concept of The convention kicked off on the final bill, and it can be long and pleased to hear this. “restoration economy.” He said that Friday with the “Wilderness Advocate complex. But that’s the reality we have environmentalists and those with skills Training” seminar, hosted by Doug to deal with, to reach Wilderness. BUTTE, AMERICA WANTS in extraction should find common Scott, renowned Wilderness advocate, The very day the convention started, WILDERNESS TOO ground. (Practical idealism, again). and Jen Schmidt, both of the December 2, a law was passed by Saturday morning, Art Noonan, a Using the work skills of yesterday and Campaign for America’s Congress that designated Wilderness Montana State Representative from tomorrow, we can come together to Wilderness. Doug went in several states— Butte, gave the introduction, and he forge a new, restoration-based econo- around the room and and Utah was one of emphasized how much local people in my, he told us. Having grown up in asked everyone how them. Of all the 50 the Mining City have a sense of place. Butte, I know that the people love its many state conventions states, I would have Butte folks want jobs, but they also heritage, and that the Richest Hill on he or she had attend- guessed that the fish, hunt and hike. And like his fellow Earth can demonstrate to the rest of ed, and several had last one to pass a townsman Charlie, Art said that he the country how community revitaliza- been to the conven- Wilderness bill would supports Wilderness. Butte cares tion can create a restoration ethic. tion numerous times— be Utah. It drove about its wildlands! A good example of habitat restoration one gentleman had home to me that if Next on board, Gerry Jennings is Silver Bow Creek. A once-toxic missed only one out of Utah can do it, then reflected on her four-year term as stream, a four and a half inch brook 48! Now that’s dedi- Montana can too! If MWA’s President. I have always cation! I liked how we keep demanding admired Gerry’s energy Doug included the perfection, we will and enthusiasm, and first-time attendees— never get anything. among her many it made them feel Accommodation and successes as President, Pat William welcomed to our s believes a compromise is the new I feel that her greatest “restoratio wonderful organiza- n economy” is the model, and that is exactly has been directing MWA way to pro tion. Doug made me tect our wildlands what MWA is doing. through the “sea change” and assure realize that new prosperity for his MWA has created a new that the organization has hometown members are need- of Butte. paradigm of accommoda- undergone. Our new ed in MWA for many reasons, and tion and compromise, direction will embrace not just for their dues. He emphasized which is reflected in the Beaverhead- and implement this policy that every organization needs fresh Deerlodge Agreement. For me, the of collaborative effort. blood and updated ideas, and bottom line of Doug’s message was Executive Director Tim to keep your ideals but marry them to Baker talked about new new members provide MWA with dall Flint grees with Ken a revitalizing burst of energy. a practical appreciation of how the paths to Wilderness, and oel Connelly a Speaker J forward. Doug Scott is always a pleasure to world really works. I enjoyed his presentation. hip” is the way that “partners listen to, and his optimism is exciting We were welcomed to Butte by It’s reassuring to know that and contagious. He believes, as I do, Charlie O’Leary, Chair of the Butte- MWA is in good hands with trout was recently discovered swim- that MWA is on the verge of getting Silver Bow Board of Commissioners. a passionate and intelligent person ming in it. When I was growing up, this new Wilderness. He made it clear that Charlie told a humorous story about like Tim, and I see him leading us to would have been unthinkable. What a “Practical Idealism” is the key to our his dog that made everyone laugh. new Wilderness in Montana. shining example this makes for every success. Ideals are important, but It was one of those typical “40 below The Beaverhead-Deerlodge Panel place in the West where there is a toxic idealism must be made to work to in Butte!” tales, and it had to do with that emphasized building partnerships backlog that needs to be cleaned up. in the practical world. the problem a dog can have in the between non-traditional parties I missed the keynote speaker—I was Doug’s talk was a multi-media pres- cold when the call was great, too. Listening to Sherm napping at a friend’s house—I had entation, making it even more interest- of strikes…. Anderson, who owns been out late the previous night. ing and educational. The slides I really Well, maybe you and manages (Butte is a party town.) I heard he liked were the two that illustrated the was very good, though.

Huzzah for the Volunteers! An event as large as a state auction items, arranged tables and chairs, and much convention can’t happen without a lot of volunteer help, more. And afterwards, when everyone else had gone and this year’s convention in Butte was no exception. home, they packed things up and saved posters and racks More than 30 MWA volunteers contributed hundreds and signs….for our next convention. It was a labor of of hours to our Wilderness Gathering. Some live in love, but it was—a labor. But they did it all with good Butte—some drove from Helena and Bozeman and as cheer and with smiling faces because, after all, it was far away as Billings and Missoula. Their work started for Wilderness. That thing we all love and long for. There long before the convention and went on to the very are too many folks to name individually here. But we last moments. They helped in the planning and want to give thanks. So here’s one grand huzzah for the preparation. In Butte, they manned the registration volunteers— the folks who came, who worked so hard, desk, sold t-shirts and caps, set up all the silent and who made the convention a huge success. Thanks.

6 W I L D M O N TA N A GIVE MONTANA WILDERNESS TODAY – AND FOREVER!

AND THE WINNERS ARE... Give the gift that goes on giving—Wilderness. By giving the gift of Wilderness to those we care about today, we also pass Wilderness on to future generations… Gift memberships are a great way to give some- WRAPPIN’ IT UP AND DANCIN’, BRASS LANTERN AWARD thing special to your friends and family—and to SATURDAY NIGHT introduce them to the Montana Wilderness The silent auction was, well, okay. Each year Montana Wilderness Association honors Association at the same time. The number of items up for bid was members, friends and supporters who have given For only $30 each you can support the Montana down from last year, but all the items exceptional service to Wilderness by presenting Wilderness Association, increase our membership, them with the Brass Lantern Award. The recipients were of good quality and all were bid and show your friends and family that you love on. The live auction was entertaining are persons who have taken action that promotes Montana’s Wilderness. as always. It was delightful to see Wilderness, quiet trails, and the responsible people have fun and pony up for a management of our public lands. Like all members, recipients of gift memberships good cause. The huckleberry pie that will receive everything they need to become a traditionally is auctioned off was a The 2006 winners are: Wilderness champion. We’ll send them our annual smash hit. Someday I’ll get a taste! Wilderness Walks schedules, quarterly newsletters, Margaret Webster, Billings and timely action-alerts to help them become Steve Thompson, Whitefish voices for Montana’s wilderness. Cathy Lewis, Great Falls To give gift memberships, clip out this form, and Dick Young, Bozeman send it with your check or credit card information to: Paul Olson, Wise River Montana Wilderness Association 30 S. Ewing, Helena, MT 59601 Maggie Pitman, Missoula You can also give gift memberships online. Go to www.wildmontana.org, look for FOUNDER’S AWARD “Support our Work,” and click to “Join or Renew.” It’s quick and easy! One additional award is announced at the convention— the Founder’s Award. This award is given to the member who best exemplifies outstanding dedication to the cause of Wilderness and the mission of Montana YES, I WANT TO GIVE Wilderness Association. This year the Founder’s Award MONTANA WILDERNESS! was presented to a person whom Tim Baker described I in his introductory speech as: ncoming Pre sident Joe My name is sees Wil Scalia derness on the horizon. A person “of vision, and of patience, leadership, and perseverance…” I’d like to give a gift membership to the following people: The closing banquet offered tasty A person who continually demonstrates victuals and it was fun to socialize Recipient 1: with friends while dining. The annual “magic in her work...” awards were presented during dinner, Address and Gerry Jennings received the A person whose “internal compass and prestigious Founders Award, the strength have served MWA well...” City highest accolade MWA can offer. A person who “has a way of lifting you up, Tim Baker presented the award after State Zip a long introduction that cleverly dis- of welcoming you into her circle and giving guised that Gerry was the recipient— you strength, and then turning you back out boy was she surprised that she had to face the world.” Recipient 2: won! I didn’t think we could keep it a secret from Gerry, but we did! She That person, of course, is MWA’s President for the past Address deserved it one hundred percent. four eventful, action-filled, always-changing years— After the banquet, yours truly led Gerry Jennings. The award caught Gerry by surprise— City as she said herself, it’s hard to outfox a fox, but the a large contingent uptown to the State Zip historic M&M Bar, a Butte landmark. awards committee had done it. She hadn’t suspected Several convention-goers had never she would receive the award and hadn’t seen it coming. been there but had heard great things As Gerry took the award from Tim the stage was about it. They were not disappointed! flooded with the Jennings family, husband Chuck and Recipient 3: After taking in the M&M, we all children and grandchildren. And there was a lot of walked down to the Silver Dollar digital picture-taking—a great deal of digital picture- Address taking. It was a grand moment that brought a great Saloon for a fun night of dancing. City Everyone should see Lex Hames and evening to its close. Norane Freistadt, two MWA staff State Zip members, cut a rug! They were awe- Congratulations to all our winners. Thank you for some. Everyone had a great time, your love of and great work for Wilderness. and they were all impressed with (To give more than three memberships, use a separate piece of paper for additional names and addresses.) the nightlife that Butte has to offer. I don’t recall much about the Council meeting held on Sunday morning. I believe there was orange My payment is for ___ memberships juice, but no aspirin. Overall, it @ $30 per membership. Total $ ______was an outstanding convention. Attendance was good—over 250 __ Check enclosed, payable to people. Butte knows how to do things Montana Wilderness Association right, and all the comments I heard were favorable. Things ran smoothly __ Please charge my credit card and on time, and I didn’t hear a single complaint. I look forward to the Card # next convention! Though of course, it won’t be in the Promised Land…. Exp. Date Name on Card Walter Walsh, ESQ. is a member of MWA’s State Council as the Representative for the Wild Divide Chapter. nders ceives the Fou ry Jennings re Thank you. Your support will President Ger m Baker. Outgoing ve Director Ti be rewarded with the protection Convention photos by Ellen Jennings. ” from Executi Award “ice ax of Montana Wilderness.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 7 G A L L AT I N T R AV E L P L A N

THE GALLATIN’S FATE:

BLUE SMOKE IN THE HIGH COUNTRY? n e d e

by Noreen Breeding e W

y h t a C

HE FINAL DECISION on the Public response reinforces this fact. the summer, motorized routes in the trails for hikers and horse riders free Gallatin National Forest Travel During the last comment period, on main section of the Crazies will be from bicycle and motorcycle traffic, TManagement Plan was released to the Draft EIS, 10,500 comments were limited to a single high mountain lake and many of these are located in side the public on December 8 after four submitted and 98% opposed motorized and lower peripheral routes, plus a drainages with restricted access. years and three public comment use. Out of 1,025 specific comments few routes in the roaded northern Motorcycle and mountain bike use periods on three different sets of on the WSA, only 62 (6%) favored side. The Lionhead Recommended are allowed to continue on the most alternatives. Over those four years, motorized use, with similar results Wilderness will be managed as popular trails in the west Bridgers and Madison Gallatin Chapter members across the forest. motor-free and, in the near future, as the WSA near Bozeman. A timeshare had waded through piles of paper Led by MWA field organizer bicycle-free. The agency has finally arrangement for alternating use and written specific recommenda- Alex Phillips, MWA and the Madison- understood that non-motorized users between non-motorized and motor- tions in response to each proposal. Gallatin Chapter partnered with want separation from motor vehicles ized/ bicycle groups has been pro- We had high hopes for favorable The Wilderness Society, Greater and that cross-country ski opportuni- posed, but it remains to be seen if results for roadless lands from one Yellowstone Coalition, and other ties are inadequate. this is a workable, practical solution. of the most ambitious, open, and local groups to form Friends of the However, on the whole, the final Mountain bikes are allowed to inclusive planning processes we Gallatin Forest. The “Friends” shared Travel Management Plan is a disap- travel cross country and can even had ever participated in. resources to analyze the Travel Plan pointment. Becki Heath, the forest use two trails in the WSA from which The Gallatin National Forest proposals and to reach out to moun- supervisor, retreated to a philosophy motor vehicles have always been borders Yellowstone National Park on tain bike and horse groups. We held of “greater management control” of prohibited. A special area for snow- the north. It encompasses some of the meetings in Bozeman, Livingston and motor vehicles rather than limits on mobile high marking has been set nation’s most wild and spectacular Billings to inform MWA members of the amount of route miles. Trail miles aside in the Crazies. In a surprise terrain in the Crazy Mountains, the the plan. Four areas of the forest withdrawn from ATV and motorcycle reversal of the draft proposal, , the Absarokas, the were selected as top priority: the use are, sadly, made up for with requests for backcountry airstrips in Beartooths, the , and HPBH WSA, the Crazies, the roadless more road miles. eight areas will be considered, even the . Out of its 1.8 west side of the Bridger Range, The treatment of the HPBH WSA though these areas can be reached million acres, 716,000 are protected and the Lionhead Recommended is especially of concern to conserva- by motor vehicle or by foot in a day in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness Wilderness. tionists and wilderness advocates. and several are on the boundary of and the Wilderness; It is telling that the WSA was not Yellowstone National Park. 704,000 acres are inventoried SOME GOOD THINGS… defined as a single travel manage- Once again politics has trumped roadless; 155,000 acres belong to SOME BAD ment area. Instead, it was divided law, common sense, and public the Hyalite-Porcupine-Buffalo Horn The Travel Management Plan is into three different areas, and the sentiment by allowing excessive Wilderness Study Area (HPBH complicated and difficult to under- WSA boundary wasn’t even shown motorized use of our forest trails. WSA); and 225,000 acres are stand without a lot of study. The forest on until the public protested. We are grateful to finally have some heavily roaded. was divided into 39 travel planning Wilderness character is neglected in kind of management of motorized areas. Each area has been assigned favor of an interpretation allowing travel and we celebrate the protec- MORE BOOTS THAN MOTORS specific goals and objectives to guide continued, unlimited motorized use. tion of the Lionhead. But it isn’t Gallatin National Forest is the most future use, and every one of the As a result, one of the jewels of the enough, and the Gallatin Forest heavily used forest in Montana and hundreds of trails and roads has Gallatin Range and an area that was deserves better. Friends of the among the most heavily used in the been assigned specific prescriptions mandated, by law, to be managed as Gallatin and other conservation nation. Currently, the predominant describing nine different types of use. potential wilderness is threatened groups are carefully preparing use is recreation, from traditional pur- For example, the prescription for the with heavy motorized encroachment. appeals to these decisions that fail suits like hiking, camping, fishing and middle third of the Gallatin Crest trail Anticipating a prompt decision on to protect the Hyalite-Porcupine- hunting, to growing motorized activi- #96 emphasizes motorcycle use from wilderness designation, the 1977 law Buffalo Horn WSA and other ty by off-road vehicles. It’s this rapidly July 15 to September 5; prohibits creating the WSA allowed existing wild roadless lands. expanding motorized use—or conser- ATVs and 4x4s; emphasizes mountain travel uses to continue only so long as vationists would say, abuse—of the bikes, horseback riding, and hiking all wilderness character was maintained. Noreen Breeding is a member of MWA’s forest that the Travel Plan must year long; and allows snowmobiles The Gallatin’s final Travel Manage- State Council as the Representative for the Madison-Gallatin Chapter. address. The plan is, surprisingly, the and cross-country skiing and snow- ment Plan flies in the face of this first attempt by the shoeing year round. The congressional directive, agency to manage volume listing this infor- perpetuating motorized “travel” in the mation for the forest’s use and adding mountain Gallatin. Over the hundreds of trails and bikes, which were almost Crazy Mountains years, motorized roads is an inch thick. unknown in 1977. The Bridger and mountain bike The “mechanics” of bikes and motorcycles can Range

use has increased travel management, traverse the entire length of n o e s on dramatically without however, have generally the WSA, running the very i st d ow a l Yel direction and with been well thought out crest of the range most of M

n i • Bozeman t very little manage- by the Forest Service. the way. The snowmobile a l l

a ment, causing many Goals are clear and spe- play area originally located G user conflicts and cific; motor vehicles are at the southwest end of the The Lionhead Recommended major resource defined in order to deal WSA has been moved Lee Metcalf - Hyalite- Wilderness is a crucial travel Spanish Peaks Porcupine- damage. Nevertheless, with future technology; north (to avoid a grizzly corridor for grizzly bears coming Buffalo Horn trail prescriptions are bear recovery area), and WSA Forest Service surveys and going from Yellowstone. Absaroka- and studies show that binding and motorized enlarged, so the “play zone” Beartooth Lee Metcalf - non-motorized activities exceed use cannot be increased without now crosses the crest of the Taylor Hilgard motorized activities by ten to one and NEPA clearance; and enforcement is range for the first time, and guided by travel management maps can be accessed from both Lee Metcalf - that the largest future demand will Monument Pk. Yellowstone National Park be for non-motorized opportunities. rather than signs on the ground, the Gallatin and Yellowstone The plan needs to speak to the fact which can disappear or be defaced. river valleys. This is an open Lionhead Area that the vast majority of users are on Gallatin National Forest personnel invitation to motorized Gallatin National Forest met several times with Crow tribal abuse of this pristine area. foot or on horseback, and not pander Wilderness Areas to the loud, often shrill demands of members for whom the entire Crazy Outside of wilderness the motor crowd. mountain range is sacred. During areas, there are very few Wilderness Study Area

8 W I L D M O N TA N A