KANCHENJUNGA to MAKALU GHT TREK NEPAL 2015 PART 1 I Have
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KANCHENJUNGA TO MAKALU GHT TREK NEPAL 2015 PART 1 I have sought to immerse myself in the serenity and beauty of mountains for most of my life, having explored and climbed much of SE Alaska, British Columbia and the Washington Cascades, then almost 30 years ago the Peruvian Andes. My children and I have shared many adventures in the cascades, and Glacier Bay, Alaskan mountains, which upon reflection bring such great memories. For many years there was still this draw within me to see the highest mountain range in the world, the Himalayas, but in the less traveled sections. Now that I was approaching 70, I knew there wasn’t much time left in the aging process to challenge myself with a long trek while still in shape. I was conditioned, but beginning to feel the aches and pains of an athletic life when younger, including several accidents. I had a new spring to my step when 64, after a knee replacement that gave me the freedom to hike and climb again pain free. I began researching areas for this journey in late 2014, desiring to experience the last remaining wild and remote regions of Nepalese Himalayan forest and mountains known left located in Eastern Nepal. There was a newly opened mountain route where few westerners have traveled that completed the Great Himalayan Trail in its remote eastern section. The rough trail leads through a sparsely populated wilderness between the world’s third highest peak Kanchenjunga, and Makalu, the world’s fifth highest just to the east of Everest. The route would take a week ascending steep trails before entering the Kanchenjunga Conservation area where we would explore Kanchenjunga base camp. We then would retrace partially the same trail, descending until branching off to follow a more difficult access across several mountain passes, including the remote 5200 meter lumba sumba pass to the northwest of Kanchenjunga. Tucked between the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area and Makalu-Barun National Park, this corner of Nepal is so isolated from the rest of the country that you have to walk two days to reach the nearest village. The primitive trail then descends entering the Arun River watershed, and traverses west along steep high altitude ridges before descending to the Barun River. Heading again north, we would follow local trails that led to Makalu Barun National park, ascending finally to Makalu base camp. The primitive trail then descends entering the Arun River watershed, and traverses west along steep high altitude ridges before descending to the Barun River. Heading again north, we would follow local trails that led to Makalu Barun National park, ascending finally to Makalu base camp. Kachenjunga and the upper Tamur River above Olangchung Gola is remote, bordering next to Tibet and Sikkim. I studied carefully studied topographical maps of the region and with the help of a trip operator in Kathmandu finally arranged for a 40 day journey that would cover almost 300 kilometers, using a local guide and porters who knew the area. We fly from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur, then drive to a remote village called Taplejung where we begin our trek before finally reaching our ending point of the trail at Num, the nearest remote village on the Arun River that was connected by a poor road to Tumlingar to connect our flight back to Kathmandu. We hoped for good weather in the spring, but knew we could be subject to snow and high altitude storms conditions if the spring was wet and still subject to the monsoon from the south Indian Ocean. My Route to Kanchenjunga base camp (Right massif of peaks) across remote passes that include Lumba Sumba to the Arun River and Makalu near Everest (glaciated peaks left). longtime friend from Seattle Stan Barrett and his son Ethan were adventurous enough to join me, as he had some previous experience in hiking the Annapurna trail. The word Kangchenjunga comes from Old Tibetan 'Kanchen' and 'Dzonga' meaning 'Five Treasures of the Great Snow'. While the highest summit is 8,586 meters (28,169 feet), the Second highest peak is 8,505 meters (27,820 feet), thus falling short of the former by 81 m (267 feet) only. Four colossal ridges of inconceivable dimensions of rocks, ice, and snow abut upon this massif, which culminates in a peak 28,156 feet high. These ridges are named according to their respective directions with reference to the great center piece to which they are attached. The mountain’s five peaks have been worshiped by the locals for as long as their stories go back in time. The five treasures are Gold, Silver, Precious Stones, Grain, and their sacred writings. The Kachendzonga Himal range is spread across the border of Nepal and the neighboring Indian state of Sikkim. Sikkim is a tiny Himalayan state located in the north eastern part of India, sandwiched between Nepal to the west, Bhutan to the east, Tibet (China) to the north and the Indian state of West Bengal to the south. With more than 250 species of birds and wildlife, and high mountain lakes in Olangchungola, the Kanchenjunga area has stunning scenery. The Kanchenjunga region has been selected as one of the 200 Global Eco Regions recognized by World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and is protected by the government as the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area (KCA). Ten species among Nepal's 20 indigenous gymnosperms and 15 among Nepal’s 28 endemic flowering plants are found here. Juniper and Himalayan larch are abundant in the forests with more than 1,200 species of flowering plants. The Kanchenjunga region also boasts of 30 varieties of rhododendrons and 69 varieties of orchids. Birds found here include Impheyan pheasant, red-billed blue magpie and shy drongo, while rare wildlife include Himalayan black bear, snow leopard, musk deer, red panda, blue sheep, Tibetan wolf, and rhesus macaque. The Kangchenjunga region is sparsely populated with an estimated 500 living in the Ghunsa valley, and to the northwest in the upper Tamur River and Olangchung Gola only 450. I eventually discovered their negative impact upon the forests, meadows and wildlife that was evident everywhere. We saw much recent extensive burning resulting from the traditional practice of slash-and-burn agriculture, and I learned that in the sparse dwellings and temporary camps songbirds and their nests were sought out for food, and at higher elevations overgrazing of their yak herds is damaging fragile alpine soils. The main ethnic groups are Limbu, Bhotia, Sherpa, and Tibetan. Of these, the Sherpa communities generally live in the highest areas, beyond which there is no possibility of permanent human settlement. I had just returned from a 5 day kayaking trip on the remote Endau Rompin River in Eastern Malaysian jungle, spent three days at home in Singapore packing for Nepal, then on April 1 left my wife a bit sad, knowing in my spirit I knew how deeply I would miss her for several months. The flight to Kathmandu from Singapore was only 5 hours, but it took another 1.5 hours to make it through immigration to get a permit for 90 days. I was waiting with several Mt Everest expedition clients, who over a month later I would see again, having stories to share of the earthquake that devastated Everest base camp and Kathmandu. I was so glad to finally get through and met Stan and Ethan who were equally glad to see me. Obtained permits at the government office after we met our Flight Kathmandu to Bhadrapur followed 11 hour drive to Taplijung, the starting point of the 40 day trek to Kanchenjunga Taplijung, the starting point of the 40 day trek to Kanchenjunga. Taplijung rice terraces passed descending 500 meters (1600 feet) elevation to the Tamor River Walking through the homes and small shops of Teplijung before steep descent to the Amur River guide and readied our gear for departure the next day for our flight to Bhadrapur tomorrow. We spent another day in Kathmandu, where Stan had to purchase last minute equipment. Crowded city center, and diesel smoke polluted the entire valley of Kathmandu. Spent the better part of the day until late evening finishing sorting gear, leaving some behind. Day0 April 3, 2015 Flight Kathmandu to Bhadrapur, drive to Taplejung 1442 m. Finally left late morning from the airport to Bhadrapur, an hour flight to the northwest. Once landed on a grass airstrip, we were met by our porters who transferred our heavy duffel bags and gear to a 4x4. We would have to endure an 11 hour trip into Taplijung located in the foothills of the eastern Himalayas. Didn’t arrive until late 11 PM and overnighted at a tea house owned by our guide’s sister. Grueling trip. We were all thankful for safety through winding narrow roads with steep drop offs. Day1 Taplijung to (921m) Chirwa/ Sinwa Breakfast early of dal baht, rice and beans to fuel a long day of trekking. Left early and hiked with our packs through the main street of Taplejung watching people start their day. School children were walking to school or playing street cricket while shop keepers opened their store fronts of wares for sale. The air was clean and quite a contrast to the diesel cloud overhanging Kathmandu. Wonderful walking through the trail that began to lead to a steep descent past a few giant fig trees in subtropical forest to the cascading Tamor River which eventually flows into the Arun River to the west. The Arun River originates in Tibet Autonomous Region and is the largest trans-Himalayan river passing through Nepal. It also drains the greatest snow and ice-covered watershed area of any Nepalese river basin.