Following in the Pilgrims’ Footsteps in Leiden

In 2020 the United States, England, and the Netherlands will commemorate the events of 400 years ago, when—after eleven years of voluntary exile in Leiden—a group of English religious refugees left for North America and founded Plymouth Colony. The role of Leiden in the Pilgrim story has long been of interest and will be fully explored through 2020 and beyond.

Refuge in Leiden, 1609–1620 services in the Walloon Vrouwekerk, many laborers lived on the edge of where they felt more closely connected subsistence. On February 12, 1609, approximately theologically. The demand for workers was so 100 English religious refugees were The Pilgrims held their own meet- great that the city tried hard to attract granted permission to settle in Leiden ings on Sunday and Thursday, which Flemish, German, French, and English by the city government. In 1611, two allowed them to experience their migrant groups. Most Pilgrims had years after Pilgrim John Robinson had faith together and listen to Robinson’s little trouble integrating into this moved from Amsterdam to Leiden sermons. On Sunday afternoons they dynamic multicultural society and, with about a hundred followers, he and discussed a chosen Bible text. These as time passed, their leaders feared three others bought a large building encounters took place in the English that the group would lose its religious with seven chimneys and a large piece gate, presumably initially in Robinson’s and cultural identity. A private colony of land on the Kloksteeg, opposite the residence and later the Faliede where their community could retreat Pieterskerk. The area, called the “Green Bagijnhof chapel, which bordered the and sustain their pure faith became gate,” soon became popularly known as grounds of the English gate.1 an increasingly enticing solution. the “English gate.” Other Robinson sup- Most of the Pilgrims who found Moreover, the Pilgrims were attracted porters—about three hundred—found refuge in Leiden had previously made living space in the neighborhood. their living from small-scale agriculture Because the Pilgrim congregation in England. Upon arrival in Leiden, was not a recognized denomination, they could immediately find employ- the group was not allowed to estab- ment in the city’s labor-intensive textile lish its own church. For this reason, industry—among the largest in Europe Pilgrims who understood Dutch occa- at the time. Children eight years and Jori Zijlmans is the Curator of History sionally attended public services in the older were also employed. The work, at the Museum De Lakenhal. Ariela Pieterskerk and the Hooglandse Kerk, performed in small cottages, included Netiv is the director of Heritage Leiden. both Dutch Reformed, while Pilgrims tasks such as wool scouring, sorting, Michael Roumen is the executive direc­ who understood French preferred spinning, and weaving. Economically, tor of Mayflower 400 in Leiden. THE NETHERLANDS Spring 2018 American Ancestors 33 Opposite page: View of the Fishmarket with Leiden City Hall on the background, ca. 1600. Unknown artist. Museum De Lakenhal. Right: Pieterskerk, Leiden. Leiden Marketing.

to the idea of leaving the arduous textile industry to build new lives cultivating lands in the wilderness of North America. All these factors led to the Mayflower voyage and the creation of Plymouth Colony.

Memorializing the Pilgrims in Leiden At the time the Pilgrims lived in Leiden they attracted hardly any notice. Not until later did their story begin to assume mythic proportions, Beginning in 1877, Henry Martyn the United States. He also published as the Pilgrim voyage and settlement Dexter and George E. Day were several books, articles, and pamphlets became synonymous with the birth of involved in another effort to memori- that argued that late sixteenth-cen- the United States. alize the Pilgrims in Leiden. The goal tury Dutch ideas—such as religious In Leiden the Pilgrim story was a bronze tablet honoring John tolerance, free press, local self-govern- was spread largely by Dr. Henry Robinson on the wall of the baptis- ment, free education, written elections, Martyn Dexter (1821–1890), a tery of the Pieterskerk.4 Although and a written constitution—had been Congregationalist minister from the senior Dexter died shortly before decisive for American development. Boston, Massachusetts, and his son, these plans were realized, Day, Morton He was convinced that the Pilgrims Henry Morton Dexter (1846–1910). In Dexter, and many others saw the laid the foundation of the United States 1865, Henry Martyn Dexter and Dr. project to completion. In July 1891 a in Leiden.5 George E. Day, professor at the Lane delegation from the National Council In 1905, Morton Dexter finished his Theological Seminary in Cincinnati, of the Congregational Churches in father’s incomplete manuscript and visited Leiden and received permis- the United States of America came to published The England and Holland sion to install a memorial stone to Leiden for the plaque’s unveiling. of the Pilgrims, which assumed an honor John Robinson. Robinson had Minister and historian William important place in Pilgrim literature. intended to emigrate in one of the Elliott Griffis took part in the cere- On August 29, 1920, during the ships that followed the Mayflower, but mony. For many years he had given tercentenary celebrations of the died in Leiden in 1625. numerous lectures and sermons in the Mayflower’s crossing, dozens of people In 1683 the houses where he and Netherlands and America about the attended memorial services in the other Pilgrims had lived were demol- Dutch origin of ecclesiastical life in Pieterskerk and in the courtyard of the ished and the Jean Pesijnhof, an alms- house, was built there. The memorial placed in the facade of the Pesijnhof in Leiden in 1865 bears the following To learn more, visit Mayflower400nl.com. inscription: “On this spot lived, taught The Mayflower 400 Leiden partners: and died John Robinson, 1611–1625.” • Leiden Heritage, Ariela Netiv, director This was the first Pilgrim memorial in • Leiden Marketing, Martijn Bulthuis, director Leiden.2 At the time of his visit, Henry • Museum de Lakenhal, Meta Knol, director Martyn Dexter was corresponding sec- • Pieterskerk Leiden, Frieke Hurkmans, director retary at NEHGS and his activities were • Coordinator: Michaël Roumen, [email protected] reported in The New England Historical • Official advisor: Jeremy Bangs, director Leiden American Pilgrim Museum and Genealogical Register.3 • Marketing: Mincke Pijpers, marketing manager Leiden Marketing

THE 34 Need help? Call 1-888-296-3447. NETHERLANDS This tablet marking the burial site of John Robinson was installed in the Pieterskerk in 1891. Leiden Marketing.

Pesijnhof. After that, buildings the Pilgrims knew are still the prominence of standing, due to Leiden’s long eco- the Pesijnhof and nomic decline after the boom years Pieterskerk as places of the 17th century. The University associated with the Academy, where Robinson and Pilgrims increased William Brewster taught and debated, not only among still stands on the Rapenburg. Next the English and to it, the Hortus, Leiden University’s Americans, but also Botanical Garden, contains a recon- among Leideners. struction of the garden as it appeared in the Pilgrims’ time. A few houses The city of where Pilgrims lived still exist. The the Pilgrims Vliet River, from which the Pilgrims left Leiden to start their journey, is still stands marked by a commemorative statue Fortunately for with all Mayflower family names listed history buffs on a plaque. and Mayflower Not every building has been descendants, many preserved and we don’t know where

2020 Initiatives in Leiden “Mayflower 400 Leiden,” a consortium of Leiden organi- “Meet your Ancestors” booth zations, including the Pieterskerk, Museum de Lakenhal, at Leiden Heritage and Heritage Leiden, is planning a roster of programs and projects for 2020. These educational, cultural, diplomatic, Heritage Leiden is tasked with protecting and promoting and tourism initiatives are aimed at establishing lasting local heritage in Leiden, from archaeological collections to meaningful relationships that will extend beyond 2020. Here municipal archives, including the “Pilgrim Archives”: official are a few examples: documents from the years the Pilgrims spent in Leiden. In 2020, Heritage Leiden will open a special booth for visitors Intellectual Baggage: an international looking for local information on their genealogical heritage. museum exhibit & academic publication Experts will guide visitors through the archives and assist them in finding family archival material. As described on pages 43–45, the Leiden American Pilgrim Museum and Museum De Lakenhal have joined curato- We are Leiden: a local program rial forces to create a traveling exhibit on books owned by aimed at community building the Pilgrims, and on the ideas and works that influenced them and traveled with them to the New World. The “We are Leiden” is a multi-year program aimed at connect- exhibit, drawn from multiple international collections, will ing newcomers (expats, students, and refugees) with Leiden travel from Leiden to the United States and England (visit residents. This initiative, run by local social and cultural Mayflower400nl.com in summer 2018 for the exhibit sched- organizations, is inspired by the Mayflower 400 commemo- ule.) The exhibit will also be the starting point for an inter- ration. Four centuries after the Pilgrims found refuge here, national academic research group and a publication drawing Leiden still has a relatively high percentage of new immi- on exhibit themes such as migration and settlement, civil law, grants compared to other cities in the Netherlands. Events and religious doctrine. will include a massive open-air city dinner.

THE NETHERLANDS Spring 2018 American Ancestors 35 every Pilgrim lived. But if you want to Walloons attended services, no longer Thanksgiving service, will take place at see how a Pilgrim household looked, stands, Heritage Leiden will present a the Pieterskerk. you can do no better than the Leiden digital reconstruction of this church Mayflower400nl.com—launching in American Pilgrim Museum, located and other places that would have the spring of 2018—will tell the story in a beautifully preserved house built been familiar to the Pilgrims—like of the Pilgrims in Leiden. It will also about 1365–70 and furnished as if it Rembrandt’s birthplace and the room provide access to digitized documents were still 1620. in City Hall where civil marriages were related to the Pilgrims’ stay in Leiden, Two of the Pilgrims on the performed. forthcoming from Heritage Leiden in Mayflower were Walloons who married The Pieterskerk will update its 2018. Visit Mayflower400nl.com to into the community. One was Philippe current Pilgrim exhibit. The church learn about events that will enable you de la Noy, ancestor of Ulysses S. also has plans for a permanent Pilgrim to follow in the footsteps of Pilgrim Grant and Franklin Delano Roosevelt. visitor center. Numerous activities ancestors. Although the Vrouwekerk, where relating to the Pilgrims, including the

NOTES 1 Joke Kardux and Eduard van de Bilt, 4 Morton Dexter, “The John Robinson Tablet,” in Holland (Boston and New York: Houghton Newcomers in an Old City: The American The Mayflower Descendant 2 (1900): 97–103; Mifflin & Co., 1899); Griffis, ed., The Siege of Pilgrims in Leiden, 1609–1620 (Leiden: Proceedings at the Unveiling of the John Leyden Condensed from Motley’s “Rise of the Burgersdijk & Niermans, 2001), 35–37. Robinson Memorial Tablet in Leyden, Holland, Dutch Republic” (Boston: D.C. Heath & Co., 2 Tamura Jones, “The First Pilgrim July 24, 1891 (Boston: Thomas Todd, 1891). 1903); Griffis, The Pilgrim Fathers in Holland Memorial in Leiden,” tamurajones.net/ 5 William Elliot Griffis, Brave Little Holland and (Rotterdam: Bredee, 1906); and Griffis, The JohnRobinsonStone.xhtml. What She Taught Us (Boston and New York: Pilgrims in their Three Homes (Boston and 3 Register 20 (1866): 90–91. Houghton Mifflin & Co., 1894); The American New York: Houghton Mifflin & Co., 1914).

Pilgrim walking tour for visitors Much of Leiden’s city center looks as it did when the Pilgrims walked the cobblestoned streets around the Pieterskerk. Multiple Leiden partners have joined forces to create a walk- ing tour that enables visitors to imagine life in the 17th cen- tury. Guided visits to the Leiden American Pilgrim Museum, the Pieterskerk, and the university help visitors understand why the Pilgrims first came to Leiden and why it was such a dynamic city.

Native Nations in 17th-century America: National Museum of Ethnology Exhibit The Dutch National Museum of Ethnology is planning an exhibit on the history and culture of 17th-century native nations of Northeastern America. This exhibit will help Dutch visitors learn about this vital aspect of the Pilgrim story, often overlooked in the past. The exhibit will be on display in Leiden in 2020.

The Jan Pesijnhof. Leiden Marketing.

THE 36 Need help? Call 1-888-296-3447. NETHERLANDS