THE GOVERNMENT RANCH OF JACKSON HOLE

A History of the National Elk Refuge, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, U.S. Department of the Interior

7 The Act of Congress that established the National Elk Refuge in Jackson Hole, Wyoming was passed in 1912. However, the portions of the land that eventually made up today's 23,998-acre refuge were involved in the history of early settlement in the Jackson Hole valley. Located on various sections of the refuge were: the first homestead in Jackson Hole, the first post office in the valley, the alleged stronghold of horse thiefs, home the Teton National Forest Supervisor, to mention a few.

Prior to the fur trapping era of the early 19th century, the only visitors to Jackson Hole were the various nomadic Indian tribes during the summers. The area has always been fairly rich in wild game, but its long winters made year around living here by anyone nearly impossible. How long man has been a visitor to the valley is not really known, however several campsites near Blacktail Butte and even on the refuge itself, have been slightly investigated. Crude scrapers and stone tools have been picked up at various sites on the refuge. Some campfire charcoal and buffalo bone have been dated to ______By the 19th century, tribes that summered in this valley included the Gros Ventre tribe, the J6Jad1<:"e�1 4 Bannock Sho , Crow, =------'--"'-�:u..a.-"'-- Travel was done down the Gros Ventre River valley, across Teton Pass, Conant Pass, etc. John Colter is generally considered the first white visitor to the valley in 1807. Others that followed were the Wilson Price Hunt party of 1811 and Robert Stuart and party in 1812. The valley is named for trapper, David E. Jackson, who frequented the area from 1824-29. This was, according to history, his favorite valley and his partner, William Sublette, named it for him in 1829. Not much is known about Jackson except that he seemed to be well liked by his fellow trappers. What happened to him after 1829 is not known, nor for that matter, exactly where he came from.

He was a partner in the Smith, Jackson and Sublettet-- fur trade d.� ✓� Gva,_tnwl .,..,1'-6 I ve.£,,,;,-,"'4:;., se-±d,s"°fe"' firm in 18�, but ou� :t.e • He was a contemporary of Jedediah Smith, Bill Sublette, Jim Bridger, Joe Meek and Tom Fitzpatrick.

The "Hole" returned to its quiet ways the fading out of the fur trade in 1840. The Indian tribes continued to visit the area in the summers and a few itinerant trappers and searchers for gold came through the valley. Beaver Dick Leigh is one of the better known latter day trappers who lived in the Hole from the 1860's on. Several government survey parties moved through the area in the 1870's - Hayden party (187_), Lt.Gustavus Doane party (1876),

Trapper Osborne Rus frequented the area in the 1834-40 period and mentions that wild game was fairly abundant.

It was estimated that in 1870 15,000 elk wintered south of Yellowsoone National Park. The first severe winter loss of elk was 1882. It has been written throughout the years that the elk Jackson Hole migrated out of Jackson Hole to the Red Desert and Green River areas during the winter. This is no longer cons ed to be valid. It is very likely that there has always

- 2 - been a distinct Jackson Hole elk herd that wintered in the valley (Wyo.Wildlife Dec.1947). In 1877, a correspondent for "Field and Stream" magazine stated that a hunter and trapper who wintered in Jackson Hole reported 15,000 elk had wintered south of Yellowstone National Park in the valleys of the Shoshone and

Snake. However, this report was considered somewhat exaggerated

(Wyoming Wildlife Dec. 1947).

Early Settlers John Carnes and John Holland were among the very earliest settlers of the va�ley . Holland trapped in the valley in the 1870's and later returned with his friend Carnes in 1883 or 1884. They brought the first wagon into the valley from the Green River country over Bacon Creek and down the old Gros Ventre valley trail. They settled on adjoining parcels of land on what is now part of the

National Elk Refuge. Holland homesteaded his land and had the first garden ::i;;,:p.thc vall-:ey and first territorial water rights in the valley. The exact location of his homestead was SW 1/4 of

Seetion 18, T 41 N, RllS W, 6th PM. The general area is the meadow f4e.co..--af.s Ind I co4-Gr.. just east of Quarters No. 3 on the refuge. AOne hundred head of cattle in the valley in 1884 were legally owned by Holland. {r;:rse.Jr)

John Carnes homesteaded next to Holland. He was married to a Seiv(t.llE- Bannock Indian, Millie -Geil:."@B-,s,.

Early day horse thief, Teton Jackson, had a stronghold on the refuge �f?c� rr) near tae present day Miller House and Shop area. He evidentally had it built there in the marsh to give extra protection from

- 3 - iA,w-- any lawmen sneaking up on�- While Carnes and Holland were evidently not involved with the horse thiefs, they did furnish

supplies to them. They traveled to Green River City for their

own supplies and also purchased supplies for the stronghold.

The creek that is now called Twin Creek wa:Jfor a period of time in the early days called Holland Creek. Holland's irrigation ditch / also retains his name . Not many traces remain of this earliest

of settlers . He moved to Salem, Oregon around 1900 and died at

the age of 65. Carnes moved to the Ft . Hall Indian Reservation in 1895 and died in July, 1931.

The next settler, Robert E. Miller, left much more of a traceable xaixtrail behind him in the history of the refuge and Jackson Hole .

He came to the valley in 1884 and returned to start a ranch in 1885. He "bought " the homeplace from outlaw, Teton Jackson and lived in

that cabin until his newer home was built in about 1898 . He

married Grace Green in 1893. Miller was a canny individual who had an idea how to make money by investments. One soory of how

he gained the nickname "12 Percent " Miller is that during the hard

winter of 1889 he loaned hay to the newly arrieed Mormon settlers

and then asked for complete return of the hay plus interest of ..\a�n. al'\ tcioi 12%. His wife purchased the Will::iaM Simpson homestead�and later platted out tae town of Jackson . In 1914 Miller started the Jackson

State Bank. He was appointed the what is now

Teton National Forest in 190� and served until 1918 . The office was a small 1-room building that is now part of the National Elk

Refuge Historic Site. Miller bought and owned some of the other - 4 - Thomas early homesteads on the refuge including: Winegardner homestead, Michael Detwiler, Jack Hicks, etc. He sold 1260 acres and the house to the Biological Survey in 1914 to start the nucleus of the National Elk Refuge. Mrs. Miller was elected the first woman mayor of Jackson in 1920 and successfully served two terms. She was part of an all-woman town administration. Robert Miller died in 1934 and the remaining lands he owned were bought by the refuge in 1936 with funds from the "6 Million Dollar" Fund. Mrs. Miller d i ed in 1 9 4 8 .

Other early settlers were: Frank Wood and William Crawford, who came in 1886. Both of these men homesteaded on what is now the Cfl')IAV.B-:lt) refuge. I\ Crawford later had a 10-room house on his property lt xu) He later sold his land to Dr. Charles Huff, the first year-around physician in Jackson Hole. Crawford died in 193� J;:Pr. His only --"' !_*"'�� l;piiJBEfiilr ef Cntwforel: hm:ti!!e-3- remaining trace is a spot on Flat Creek called the old Crawford Bridge site, which is a boundary limit for fishing a portion of the creek.

Others venturing into the valley in 1886 were Dick Turpin, John 1 11 Cherry and 1 Uncle Jack Hicks. At one time, one of the springs at the base of Miller Butte was known as "Jack Hicks Spring" and near the area he homesteaded.

J.Pierce Cunningham, Stephen N. Leek, Nicholas Gas, Leek's half brothers Charles and Ham Wort, Joe Infanger, Mose Giltner, Bfig Adams, John Sargeant and Ray Hamilton all came here in 1888. Of these men, Infanger and Giltner later homesteaded on owned land

- 5 - that later became part of the refuge. S.N. Leek, although never owning any land that was ever a portion of the National Elk Refuge, still had a great deal to do with the history of the refuge. This will be covered later on.

Near what is called "the Gap" in East Gros Ventre Butte is ..\oh"'- located the area of the homestead of Martin II Sloughgrass" /\ Nelson. His wife Bertha and daughter Cora (then age 4) crossed Teton Pass on July 3, 1888 and were the first white women to sett in Jackson Hole. Nelson's house was originally built on the hillside when he homesteaded in 1891. But when the area was surveyed in 1897, it was found the house was outside of Nelson's property lines. He then moved into the marsh (or swamp as it was called then) where the grasses provided hay for his livestock and furnished his nickname. Mr. Nelson even tried to make use of all the elk that wandered about the area by trying to break a few young spikes to lead so he could use them for plowing, but his ingenuity proved unsuccessful. Another child of Nelson's that drowned was buried beside East Gros Ventre Butte. His son, Mose Nelson, still lives in Jackson. Mose Giltner later owned the Nelson homestead and owned it at the time it became part of the refuge in 1936(S!lf'. -:,::±t:i:!:::::::,�,-�·=•t¢�•�"='"�·==t:::::--==-�··�·�.�·'.'.'!!'R=::;::::J;=;

In the fall of 1889 the first settler families under the leadership "Uncle" Nick Wilson came over Teton Pass in 6 covered wagons. They found 40 bachelors and John Carnes and his Indian wife already living in the valley. Miller Butte was known as "Carnes" Butte, Nowlin Creek called "Swamp Creek"

- 6 - and Flat Creek the "Little Gros Ventre " in those years. At that time in territorial Wyoming, the Jackson Hole valley was in

MRi Uinta County. It later became part of Lincoln County in 1911 and finally Teton County in 1923.

Jackson Hole's first post office was established on March 25,

1892 by Mr. Fred White on his ranch (also on what is now the refuge) on Flat Creek. It was named "Marysvale " after White's wife. He was postmaster intil 1894 when the post office was moved to the Simpson homestead (located on Cache Creek--now part of town and the refuge). At that time the name was changed to "Jackson ". (ftt;;u.ffl- ;n:r)

By this time settlers were finding out that homesteads and livestock and the native elk did not necessarily mix.

Charles Hedrick, in his memoirs speaks of the year he came here in 1896 (Wyoming Wildlife,Jan. 1953). Hedrick came and wintered at the Hatchet Ranch, the homestead of John Cheney in the northern end of the valley. He described the large numbers of elk that were migrating past the homestead. Later that winter Hedrick and John Cherry traveled down to the "Hole " (at that time only the southern section of the valley was called the "Hole "). They visited Bill Simpson at his homestead (then the postoffice) and that evening went to D.C. Nowlin's ranch which was 3 miles from

Simpson's. "The country was alive with elk. The next morning word

went out among the settlers that the largest herd of elk

- 7 - had ever been seen was gathering in the Dry Hollow region and on Flat Creek [now the refuge]. Word passed along and about noon there were between 20 and 30 settlers gathered to look the herd over. There was . . & the Simpson family, Redman, Frank Peters�n, the Nowlins, Jack Hicks, Mike Detwilder, John Emery and Roy McBride, Sloughgrass Nelson, Pete Karns and quate a few were considered authorities in regard to game matters at thet time. We all gathered at the Nowlin Place and rode out across the Flat and into Dry Hollow. Everyone agreed that there were at least 20,000 elk in that great herd. I've no doubt that there were more, but in those days I didn't pass my opinion as to numbers of game."

Elk caused problems by breaking into haystacks of the settlers and eating hay reserved for livestock. There was very little winter range left for the animals due to homesteads and fences, much of Jackson Hole was settled by 1900. With the occurrence of several severe winters and losses of many elk, the Jackson Hole elk herd was in a dangerous position. These winters were 1882, 1886 or 1888, 1889, 1891, 1909-10, 1910-11 and 1919-20. Trouble with tusk hunters wantonly killing elk for their canine teeth began around 1904.

Various conservation measures for wildlife were begun as early as 1866 in Wyoming. In that year a law prohibiting offering

- 8 - of elk meat for sale between February 1 and August 15 was initiated. In 1871 closed seasons were started. In 188 6 all peace officers were charged with enforcement of game laws.

In 1895 the sale of game meat was prohibited and the first nonresident hunting licenses were started (mostly to discourage

Indian hunting).

� q Albert Nelson was appointed the first state game warden in 189��).

D.C. Nowlin was appointed the 2nd State game warden in 1902 and served in that capacity until 1911. Rangers working on the Yellowstone Forest Reserve (part of it near here is now Teton

National Forest) also enforced game laws. Two of these rangers were Ed Romey and John Alsop, who had homesteads on lands now part of the National Elk Refuge. All of these men had large areas to cover. The Teton Game Preserve, covering much of what is today the Teton Wilderness, was established by the State in 1905 and existed until 1947. Hard work on the part of the law enforcement people and even some vigilante efforts on the part of local settlers eventually wiped out the tusk hunters. D.C.

Nowlin later became the first refuge manager of the National Elk Refuge in 1912.

Still, problems for the elk herd continued. Stephen Leek, who came to the valley in 1888, had by this time become a successful

rancher abd one of the earliest wildlife photographers. He started

a campaign on behalf of the elk herd, writing articles and sub­

mitting photographs of starving and dead animals to many well

known magazines of the day. He made a major contribution through

- 9 - his efforts to preserve the herd. In 1909 the Wyoming Legislature

provided for $5,000 to feed the elk plus, many settlers, including Leek, voluntarily fed the elk as best they could. Still, with

all of this effort, elk losses were heavy and were estimated from

15-50% of the herd and calf losses were extremely heavy. In the

winter of 1910-1911 an estimated 2,500 head of elk died and

approximately 75% of the calves were lost. On March 4, 1911,

from urging by a Memorial passed by the Wyoming Legislature, the U. S. Congress appropriated $20,000 for feeding of elk. 5-7,000 elk were fed on 7 feedgrounds. The Congress also outlined plans

for permanent relive.

E.A. Preble of the U.S. Biological Survey was sent to Jackson

Hole in 1911 to make a detailed study of conditions. Preble said later in his report:

"Some of the most intelligent residents of Jackson Hole have estimated the value of the elk to the region is equal

to the revenue derived from stock raismng, which is the

principal industry ...and that without them the region

under present conditions would not support nearly so large

a population as it now does... Probably a majority of

the more successful residents owe their start to the

_ presence of these animals." (*\- (:Von August 10, 1912 Congress appropriated $50,000 for purchase

of lands to start the "Winter Elk Refuge ". 1240 acres of land

near Jackson were purchased from Robert E. Miller in 1914 and

41; acres of U.S. land were withdrawn and added to the refuge.

520 acres were purchased from Guy Germain in 1915 and 191 6.

- 10 -

Daniel C. Nowlin was appointed the first refuge manager (the job title then was U.S. Reservation Protector) in 1912. Local s�f .e." {e.f Jt.-trf'-e:!-<-t'Z) I.).'::. residents �a:JAtl!cl.f>the refuge l\the "Government Ranch".

Nowlin was born in Kerr County Texas on September 1, 1857. He was educated at private schools in Kerr, Kendall and Hayes counties, Texas. He married Laura Leonard in Licoln County, New

Mexico in November, 1887. He served as a Texas Ranger, Frontier

Battallion 1875-187 6; School Superintendent and U. S. Deputy Mineral Surveyor , Lincoln County New Mexico 1887-1888; Sheriff of Lincoln County 1889-1890; member of the Wyoming Legislature

1898-1900 (framed and introduced first comprehensive game law of Wyoming); State Game Warden of Wyoming 1902-10; entered with the Biological Sarvey on March 6, 1911. He had assisted Preb� in his examination of the elk herd situation in 1911. He served as manager at the Elk REfuge until November of 1922, when he trans­ ferred to Ft. Niobrara reservation (NWR) in Nebraska due to health problems. He later returned to Texas and died there in 1925. Nowlin's wife, Laura, homesteaded the land that is today the

Twin Creek Ranch, sometime around 189 6. t8'l5" [Water Ditch Map�

His sons all served in the army during World War I and son Bryan worked as his assistant at the Elk Refuge in 1922. Rjs 0sn Bruce later became head c,f the 1:fycr. .:l. 1.:�: Game and Fish Department in 1928.

[picture of Nowlin w/Billy Bierer] Nowlin Creek on the refuge is named for D.C. Nowlin.

- 11 - During the early years of the refuge the job was similar to

operating a ranch for domestic livestock. But much time was taken

up with chasing elk from settler's haystacks and trying to entice them to the small refuge area. Nowlin wrote in his Annual Report of 1916:

"Maintenance of this reserve is in nowise different from the maintenance of a stock ranch of equal area; the

prime object is to produce and conserve winter feed (hay and pastureage) for the elk."

1 11 The busiest months of the year were May and June when 1 springwork

plowing and seeding was accomplished. Haying operations took up most of August and feeding operations filled the January 15-

April 1 period. Haying was done by contract as the refuge had

little equipment. Equipment listed in 1915 was•lI' team of horses

and 1 plow. 361-1/2 tons of hay were harvested by Contractor Ivan �� D. Kelly in 1915. It �also noted that the growing season of

1915 was unfavorable. The winters 1912-1916 were comparatively easy winters for the elk. The'� feeding operation for the winter

of 1916 consisted of Nowlin and 2 hired laborers feeding with 1

government team of horses.

On April 10, 1916 the refuge took charge of the Germain tract.

The summer of 1917 was extremely dry, as was also the fall. The Gros Ventre winter range was examined and found to be very short

of Nowlin mentions in a letter dated November 12, 1917: "I have just returned from a hurried trip to the Upper

- 12 - Gros Ventre country and am sorry to say that I found the range in worse condition - if possible - than last fall. I have never seen that region so denuded of feed, and this is attribuatable to a very dry season and the continuous grazing of cattle."

During the haying season of 1917, Nowlin had d iculty due "" to a labor shortage'geetingi anyone to harvest hay. During August he hired local women to put up the hay. Nowlin also " 6- reported several transient men�gpplied in August for work and he was "confident" several were slackers moving hhrough to avoid the draft for the war. But he (Nowlin) was too busy with haying to investigate.

11 The fall and early winter of 1917-1918 was "remarkably mild • Snow didn't fall at the refuge until January 5 and cold was not severe until the last of February.

The winter of 1918-1919 was also short of snowfall which resulted in a lack of irrigation water. The lack of moisture turned into a drouth and reduced the hay yield. It was also felt that the drouth had seriously damaged the range. Elk migration began earlier "than ever noted before" and the elk were all south of the Buffalo Fork by November 1. du.,,"'-5 It was�this same year that the U.S. Forest Service restricted live- stock use in a large area along the Gros Ventre river bottom. Approximately 625,000 acres were set aside for exgzHiXR exclusive use by the elk.

- 13 - In response to this action local ranchers formed a Stockmen's Advisory Board. This Board voted not to sell any hay to the refuge, but instead they would sell it to the Forest Service-- � only on the condition that the grazing restrictions were removed on the Forest. Most years this would not have been all that much of a problem, but due to the drouth and an expected hard winter, buying of a supplemental hay supply was necessary. The Advisory Board held firm. Manager Nowlin� talk�with Rancher J. Ferrin, who owned a ranch at Elk, Wyoming (about 30 miles north of Jackson) andk he said he was willing to sell the refuge hay and move his cattle to Idaho to winter. Nowlin suggested that ,.DJrt:yl::xe instead of hauling the hay to the refuge) the local ranchers could move their cattle to Ferrin's to winter on his hay and the ranchers could sell their hay to the refuge. The Advisory Board would not do that and so it developed the refuge purchased Ferrin's hay and hauled it to the refuge. This provided the additional hay supply needed and broke the ranchers' "blackmail" attempt. They in turn were very angry and raised 11 cain" all that fall and went so far as to make a "libelous" attack on Nowlin in the Salt Lake Tribune. One of their "bones of contention" was that Nowlin and Ferrin were "in cahoots" because Nowlin's daughter had married Ferrin's son the previous summer. Nowlin denied there had been any type of subversive dealings and said that it was business only.

Elk feeding began on December 27 and lasted until April 20, 1920.

- 14 - The winter was extremely severe and losses of elk were great. It was said that close to half of the Jackson Hole elk herd died that winter. The State shipped in cottonseed oil cake and experimentally fee� it to elk on the Leek Ranch. The elk liked the cake very well and cottonseed cake was fed to the elk on several other winter periods in years

'feeehng eake-- ti& elk]

The total lossijllf'on the refuge for the winter of 1919-1920 was

656 elk or 8.2% of the 8,000 elk on the refuge area.

In 1922 D.C. Nowlin transferred to the Ft. Niobrar¥ reserve near

Valentine, Nebraska. Francis Triska, previously stationed at Sully's Hill Game Preserve, N.D. transferred in as Assistant

Manager in July, 1922. Triska was in charge of the refuge from Nov. 1922 until Almer Nelson took over as manager in January, 1923.

AMnew era began on the refuge under Almer which lasted until his retirement after 33 years, in May, 195 6. Almer P. Nelson came to Jackson Hole with his parents and family at the age of

6 in 1902. He served in the armed fx�� forces in World War I and afterwards became an assistant state game warden in the Jackson area from 1918-1922. During his tenure at the refuge he saw it Sl.✓e ✓4l h.,.,.,,c!,� grow from a "feedground" operation on �--A- acres to an area of

23,000 acres and operation as a winter range.

In 1922 the "Flat Creek Bird Reserve" was established on Flat Creek ,�\ ,a:.) and consisted of 40 acres. AThis area became a part of the refuge in 1937. In a letter dated 1922, waterfowl noted on the "Flat Creek

Bird Refuge" area were: mallards, teal, gadwall, baaidpate, shoveller,

- 15 - pintail, redhead, ���HH goldeneye, ruddy duck, lesser scaup, merganser, coot, Canada goose, curlews, western wil , sandhill �HXHH crane and also, a number of muskrats. [Map showing Bird Refuge area]

Since the creation of the refuge it had been emphasized that more land was needed so that the maintenance of the herd could be properly carried out. Nowlin many times wrote of this need. But, due to many difficulties, most of which were financial, the expansion was not possible for several years. In a letter to Nowlin from Chief E.W. Nelson dated April 26, 1920, Nelson stated that the Bureau would have to forego the plan to purchase 10, 000 additional acres because of the large expense incurred by the government during World War I. Due to this, it wottld be impossible to obtain a large appropriation for several years.

Living quarters for refuge personnel were far from luxurious. They consisted of the Miller house and the old Germain cabin. The Germain cabin was an old, low log building with a 3 rooms and a E�xa board and dirt roof. The Miller house was on a higher plane and, for its day, was a well built log homew with 7 rooms. The former Forest Supervisor's 1-room log fice was used for quarters by laborers. In 1923 the refuge crew consisted of Almer Nelson, manager; Francis Triska, assistant refuge manageri Troy Pratt, laborer; and one other laborer.

In 1925 the following facts were reported to Forest Supervisor McCain by Manager Nelson:

- 16 - Present acreage of refuge 2,700 acres Total acreage producing hay 600 acres (\ Quantity hay produced: 1922 683 ton 1923 784 ton 1924 454-1/2 ton Ave.cost of maintaining & running refuge $4900 Ave. cost of feeding elk $1260

In 1924 Donald Hough came to Jackson Hole representing the newly formed Izaak Walton League of America. He obtained options to buy several ranches on what is called Poverty Flat. On a nation wide subscription campaign the IWLA raised enough funds to purchase 1,760 acres. These ranches were: Ben F.&Jennie Goe $14,700 840 acres J. S.Chambers 7,500 320 acres William Mcinelly 5,800 280 acres Richard Winger 8,500 320 acres 36,500 1,760 acres

These lands were held by the IWLA until 1928, but haying was done by refuge employees on the area beginning in 1925. J. Chambers and were IWLA administrators or overseers over the lands. In 1928 the 1,760 acres were donated and added to the "Winter

Elk Refuge".

Experimental work in those years was limited, but efforts to improve methods and forage were tried. Beginnning in 1918, corrals were constructed each winter with "creepers" wide enough to just allow calf elk to enter the corrals and there they were fed hay.

- 17 - Refuge personnel considered this operation would reduce problems of competition between adult elk and calves for hay. They believed the corrals were a great success. In 1923, 4 cows were held over for the summer in corrals and 3 calves were born. Many tomrists came to see the elk.

In the spring of 1923 they constructed a corral and chute to use to earmakk calves. On March 23 4 female calf elk were earmarked but it was found the corrals and chute were not successful to use.

Beginning in 1925 experiments with types of forage were begun. A 2-acre tract near the "swamp" was plowed and worked up and used as an experimental plot. Five kinds of grass seed were tried out: white sweet clover, yellow sweet clover, Alsike clover, Losus Uliginosus and Lotus Corniculatus.

An attempt to raise small fish in the pond near headquarters was made in September, 1925. A headgate was placed near the outlet and the pond raised 3 feet. Game Warden Fred Deyo placed 65,000 fry in the pond and planned to keep them there until the next summer to distribute in streams. Later1in the weekly itineraries of December)the apparent fate of the fish was noted. Several ducks had moved onto the pond and by Deeember, all the fish had disappeared. The culprits were not known but a strong suspicion pointed towards some happy ducks.

- 18 - The winter of 1926 was noted as "up to the present time [February, 1926] this has been one of the most mildest winters in the Jackson's Hole valley that has been known for a great many years. 11

Most songbirds came back the first week of March that year and the ground squirrels made their appearance a month earlier than usual.

During March, 1926 42 elk were trapped on the refuge and of these, 16 cows and 2 spikes were loaded on sleighs and taken over Teton Pass to Victor, Idaho, then shipped by railroad and later turned loose on Elk Mountain near Laramie, Wyoming.

In June of 1926 the refuge manager assisted in tagging elk calves on the Teton Game Preserve.

It was noted that the State had set up a "game preserve" on Flat Creek east of the refuge.

The winter of 1927 was not mild in any respect. Calf corrals were again constructed and 350 calves made use of the corrals. Some calves died but these were �eavily infested with ticks. The winter continued into a late cold spring and it was noted in the May monthly report that the elk remained later "than ever before." He also noted that the road to Yellowstone would not be open until early July and Twogwotee would also not open until then; the Hoback would open around June 20.

For the year of 1927 other items were: local citizens had signed

- 19 - a petition against poisoning coyotes on the refuge. Tourists that visited the refgge were given 1 or 2 pair of elk antlers as a souvenir - this was considered "good advertisement". There was a total of 38 visitors to the refuge in August of 1927 and none in September.

Part of the President's Commission on Outdoor Recreation during 1927 was the Elk Commission with Char Sheldon as chairman. Members were representatives of federal and state agenc s that contributed to the welfare of elk. The Wyoming Game and Fish Department and several national and civic groups were so members. This Commission remained active through 1935. All cooperating agencies agreed that elk numbers in Jackson Hole should be controlled and that 20,000 should be the maximum number. This remained the desirable figure until 1944 when the Wyoming Game and Fish and U.S.F.S. agreed to a 15,000 maximum number of elk ifl Jackson Hole.

Elk counts were begun on an official basis in 1912 by the U.S. Forest Service. The first census comprised a total of 13,528 elk, but this apparently was not complete. The District Forester said there were approximately 18,000 in February of 1912 and that that represented a 50% decrease since 1902. From 1912-1931 elk census counts on areas outlying from feedgrounds were made by 10 or 12 men on skis, snowshoes or horseback. Official counts of the Jackson Hole elk herd for these years were: 1912 13,528 1925 19,492 1916 19,763 1927 19,238 1921 9,346

- 20 - The first aerial census of the valley herd was @� done in 1932.

This census totalled 19,855 elk.

During 1928 a new 5-room house was consturcted on the old Winger tract and was occupied by Assistant Refuge Manager, Troy

Pratt. Telephone service had been installed at the headquarters and the Germain quarters in July of 1925, with the refuge crew cutting and treating all poles and strining the wire.

The year 1928 came in with a shock, note dated January 1, 1928:

"quite a distinct earth tremor was felt at the refuge at about 2± 12 o'clock New Year's Day ." Another earthquake w tremor was felt at 7:30 a.m. on March 31st .

In February, 1928 the deer population was quite large and 150 deer were depredating haystacks near Elk, Wyoming and 150 had been seen near the Blackrock Ranger Station . Seven deer were captured by the local game warden near Elk, Wyoming, transported to the refuge and kept in corrals there awaiting shipment . Two were sent to

Tenessee and two to Chicago, along with x moose to Chicago and 1 moose to Tennessee . It was noted that 7 years ago (1921) only about 40 deer wintered at Blackrock.

The Snake River Land Company (Rockefeller interest) purchased several ranches in April, 1928 . These ranches were: J.D . Ferrin

(2900 acres); Rudy Harold and Coffin ranches, Edick Ranch, Riniker

Ranch, Tyler Ranch, Chambers and Mcinelly ranches near Grovont; and Nipper and Burton ranches . The local people were "much

- 21 - aroused " because they were unable to learn what the lands were to be used for--rumor was that the lands were for a recreational area. The Rockefeller family owned the Snake River Land Company.

Portions of these lands were later leased to the refuge beginnning in 1936 and in 1950, with the expansion of Grand Teton National

Park, some 2, acres became part of the refuge (land tract 2 0 6)

In August the Wyoming Game and Fish again attempted to raise fish in refuge waters by putting in 5 temporary rearing ponds in the spring near headquarters. 70,000 small "fry " secured from the Yellowstone Fish Hatchery were put in the ponds. No further mention is made of the outcome of this attempt in records.

During 1929 a generator was purchased and installed to, furnish electricity at headquarters.

In a letter (1929) dated to the Bureau Chief from Manager Nelson, refuge structures were listed:

Headquarters: Value: 8-room house,18xl8' basement constructed 1898 2500.00 Barn,30'x40' construc.1898 stable room for 18 horses 1300.00 Granary,14xl6' 300.00 in Office bldg, 14 'xl8' 600.00 Shop, 14'xl8' 300.00 Garage, small 60. 00 Machine sheds, 2 50.00

Winger tract: New,5-room house (w/bathroom) & 14x28' basement(Asst's Qtrs) 2400.00 Store room, 14'xl6' 100.00 Workshop 125J00

- 22 - Chambers: House, 2-room 18'x30' 500.00 Barn & chicken coop 150.00 Mcinelly: 2-room house 75.00 Barn & shed 50.00 Germain: old log house 100.00 "Very old " barn 100.00

Jackson had a population of 600 in 1929.

The spring gf 1930 was an early one and ground squirrels were out by March 15, aspens were leafing out in April.

During the summer and fall of 1930 experimental work was done to try and learn a means of eradicating foxtail and increasing the hay yield.

Biologist Olaus Murie had come to Jackson Hole in 1926 and began experimental work on elk in 1928. Dur the winter of 1931, refuge personnel constructed 5-ton wagon scales and a building over them that were used in connection with Murie's stud s.

The winter of 1930-1931 was mild and the snow depth was the lightest on record in several years, a large portion of the hay meadows was bare. The soil was frozen for a depth of 3 The Hoback highway remained open to travel all winter and this was the f st time people from other parts the state, Idaho, and� Utah drove their own cars in to see the elk; 27 cars visited during February, 1931. Due to the winter's light snowfall, streams were low during the spring. However, during August, 5 inches of rain fell, a new record. It was the first year the refuge crew was able to make a second cutting of alfalfa.

- 23 - Experimental work on control of foxtail was continued.

From a report in November, 1931, it was reported that 60 elk migrating from the Teton Game Preserve attempted to cross the Snake River on the ioe 1/2 way between Moran and Pacific Creek, fell through the ice and 55 elk drowned. About 1923 32 elk had drowned in the same place.

'I'he f st deer to winter on Miller Butte since 1912 wintered on the Butte during the winter of 1931-1932. There were a total of 17 head. Elk feeding began on January 3 and troughs were placed around the area to hold salt.

On February 13, 1932 the "worst blizzard in years" hit the valley and the Hoback road was closed all week and Teton Pass closed to

II sleigh travel for two days. It was necessary to make k drives" from the Charles Wilson ranch, Bar BC, Martin and Van Leuuen ranches to the renuge.

During 1932, Dr. Huff, who owned the former William Crawford ranch, proposed drainage of Flat Creek swamp to improve range use. The Bureau was rather reluctant to do this and Dr. HUff threatened that as county health officer he would condemn the "swamp" as a health hazard. This was never done. Earlier, in 1926, S.N. Leek had proposed a plan to dam Flat Creek near the present highway bridge north of town and back up water �xx for irrigation. This plan had first been suggested in x92& 1920 by other local residents. Again, this plan had never been carried out.

- 24 - 11 The weather got a little "nippy in 1933. On the morning of February 9 the termometer re�istered ���� -59° . At Moran it registered -62 ° . Elk were breaking into haystacks at the DeRham and Goe ranches, a perennial problem.

Seventy-five calves were held in corrals during the winter for experimental feeding by Olaus Murie. On May 25, 12 of these yearling elk were shipped to South Dakota by the Wyoming Game and Fish Department.

Concerning "goings-on" in the valley, Nelson reported that during August 6-12, 1933 the Senatorial Committee of Sens.Nye, Norbek, Adams, Ashurt and Caryy were making an investigation of methods used by Rockefeller in acquiring 32, 000 acres of land recommended for inclusion in Grand Teton National Park. Four days of hearings with night sessions were held in the valley to obtain testimonies from local citizens.

The National Industrial Recovery Act was insiituted E under President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1933. Funds were received under the act for the refuge and 13 men were hired in October, 193 3. Some projects included: construction of a new house on the Germain tract, new barn on Chambers tract, new shop building, razing of the old Germain house, and construction of haysheds. These projects continued through 1938. During November, 1934 the manager assisted the Wyoming Game and Fish Department up Flat Creek in capturing mountain sheep to ship and be released near Sheridan. A total of 14 sheep were captured.

- 25 - A census of mountain sheep in the Gros Ventre Range totalled 1,207 .

During October of 1935 plans were discussed with State Game Commissioner R.A. Hocker and game wardens for disposing of 1,000 elk later on in the season. A "slaughtering" pen was constructed. On December 6, 1935 a total of 300 elk had been captured in the corral. About 400 were in the corral on December 7. Slaughter was begun by the Wyoming Game and Fish on December 9-- 7 state wardens add 3 butchers did the work. All uteri and fetus taken from butchered elk were examined and a sex record kept of all fetus. By December 14, 363 elk had been killed. On Saturday night, pereons unknown removed fence poles from the corral and let the remaining 100 elk escape. By January 11, 1936 300 elk had been re-corraled, but some culprit again removed posts and let them out. However, 200 elk were coaxed back in and guards were then posted. As of January 19, the kill was completed and a final total of 541 elk processed and shipped to the Bell Packing Company in Cheyenne, Wyoming.

In the spring of 193 6 the Bureau leased land om the Snake River Land Company. The manager noted there were a number of beaver on the leased area.

Beginning in 1936, funds appropriated under the "Six Million Dollar Fund" were used to purchased the remaining homesteads and ranches that were needed on the refuge area. {chart listing tracts, names, dates, etc. & MAP] - 26 - This is the time period when the refuge overcame the standstill it had been stalled at for over 20 years and began to grow and become something more than a feedground. During the fall of 193 6 construction began on several hay storage shedsa and a new shop building.

Visitors increased durmng the winter of 1938. The most notable group was when Wyoming's governor and a party of 600 people visited the area on January 30, 1938. Visitors were takert\ut on the feed sleighs to see the elk. Also, during that spring plans were drawn up for a new refuge headquarters and logs were cut and peeled for the buildings. The old Goe house was remodeled for use by refuge personnel as living quarters.

Among xw� unusual visitors noted were two pet buck antelope who had wandered down from their home at the White Grass dude ranch to the refuge during November, 1938.

A year-around Civilian Conservation Corps camp was proposed for the refuge in 1939, but was not set up. Some CCC laborers were "borrowed " from the Forest Service camp and did work on some projects on the refuge during these years. A WPA "relief " worker was employed as a refuge clerk from 1937-1939. An elk exhibition pasture was also proposed in January of 1939, but this was not

constructed until 1954.

Many visitors again came to the refuge in the winter of 1939. On February 5, over 400 people visited and 4 "relief " WPA workers

as drivers with teams and hay racks took the people out from

- 27 - the headquarters area. On February 12, 274 people in 51 cars and 5 CCC trucks visited to see theH elk.

The winter of 1939 was also the first winter that baled hay was fed out to the elk. This involved much less work than with loose hay: 1 man could take care of 1500 elk with baled hay while with loose hay 1 man could take care of only 1000 elk. With baled hay, there was a savings of 1/3 in labor.

On April 30, the manager assisted by 4 people on horseback, drove 2500 elk from the refuge into the Sheep Creek and Flat Creek hills.

Durin g the summer, basements were excavated for the new office and new quarters (Quarters No. 1).

Previously, during the fall of 1938, 2 islands were built in a spring and 4 cygnet trumpeter swan from Red Rock Lakes NWR in 21 Montana were brought here and released on October iz. They were not seen again until October 28, when they were seen in a spring and beaver pond on Land tract Sa. This was the first successful transplant of trumpeter swan in the United States. Trumpeter swan had been present historically in Jackson Hole and Robert E. Mil said there were 300 swan using Flat Creek when he came to the valley in 1884. The last trumpeters to be seen on Flat Creek was in 1915. A few scattered sightings of swan were noted in refuge records. In 1930 in early April, 9 swan were on the large springs and on Flat Creek. These were determined to be whistling swan. On October 22, 1933 5 swan were seen in the large springs, but it was not determined what species they were. There

- 28 - were 2 adults and 3 young. More cygnets (3) were transplanted from Red Rock Lakes in October, 1939 and released at Big Spring-­ these swan departed during the succeeding winter and were not seen again. On September 23, 1941 3 cygnets were transplanted from Red Rock Lakes, wing-clipped and released at Big Spring. In 1944 the first nesting occurred by 2 of the swan first brought here in 1938. On July 2, 1944 2 cygnets hatched out, but 1 was killed on the highway on July 8.

During 1939, Flat Creek from Tract 11 upstream 7 miles opened to fishing from August 1 through September 30. The creek was considered "one of the best fly-fishing streams in the country. " In 1940 the Forest Service planted several thousand cutthroat trout in Flat Creek just above where the creek enters the National Elk Refuge.

Ground squirrels were poisoned yearly on the refuge from 1915-1945. Woodchucks (marmots) were also killed because of their habit of burrowing into hay stored and messing up stacks. During 1940 12 coyotes were shot on the refuge and John infanger shot and trapped 30 coyotws on Tract 11.

The hay harvest during the summer of 1941 was small, 1000 tons, due to a shortage of local labor.

The new headquarters buildings, the office, Qtrs 1 and the service building were completed during the summer of 1942. The new office began being used on June 3, 1942. During ¥R this year

- 29 - the first permanent refuge cler�, Mrs. Francis Barbee was hired. Mrs. Barbee did not work at the refuge for a few years during

World War II, but did complete a total of 15 years service before here retirement in September of 1961.

A heavy snowfall on October 30-31, 1942 caused the start of elk migration. By November 1 1500 elk were on the refuge; by Nov.

30 approximately 10,000 animals were on the area and adjacent foothills. The refuge became concerned about capabilities to feed this many elk and the continued unabated growth of the herd.

Recommendations were made as early as 1941 that the herd numbers should be controlled. While an agreement was finally drawn up between the agencies that set 7,000 elk on the refuge as a maximum the number and the Wyoming Game and Fish agreed to slaughter of an average if necessary, this was not carried out. The issue hit the newspapers and a furor was created. So the Wyoming Game and Fish

Department promised to obtain extra supplemental feed (hay and cottonseed cake) to carry the elk through the winter. The next year measures were adopted to increase the hunt kill. The first elk hunt on the refuge was held from September 5 to November

15, 1943 and the area was opened by Secretary's order to reduce the summer herd that was building up on the refuge. Twenty-five permits were issued at first and then 50 permits per day were issued. A total of 706 elk were taken. Hunts on the refuge were held in

1944, 1946 and 1947, 1952, 1953 and annually from 1963-1976.

Another "hot" issue came to the valley in 1943 that would affect the area from then on. On March 15, 1943 President Franklin Roosevelt

- 30 - Proclamation No . 2578 establishing the Jackson Hole National 1 (cf,Cj X ) Monument .' Its immediate effect on the refuge was that the Monument took in all lands leased from the Snake River Land Company plus a portion of lands in the refuge added by Executive Orders and ai.ands purchased by the "R6 Million Dollar Fund" in the late 1930 1 s. There was much local opposition against the expansion of Grand Teton National Park, as much of the county was already government owned . Then too, it looked like hunting of the elk herd could not be continued on the Monument and if so, where could they obtain the necessary elk kill? ( f,a I )

Immediate problems for obtaining hay for the refuge were alleviated by the writing up of a cooperative agreement between the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Wyoming Game and Fish and the Jackson Hole Preserve for haying to be done on the Elk Ranch. Under this agreement the refuge was to: 1) discontinue harvest of hay on the National Elk Refuge afor a period of the 5 years of the agreement and allow forage to grow uncut . Hay required for the refuge would be cut and supplied by the Elk Ranch . The Jackson Hole Preserve would annually harvest 1000 tons of hay. The Game Commission would, at its own cost,pick up hay in fields at the Elk Ranch and deliver it to storage at the Elk Refuge. The refuge was also to furnish the Preserve such equipment as they might need (or the refuge had available) for rent to use to harvest hay.

In 1949 the Preserve was released from the agreement and a new

- 31 - agreement was drawn up with Amasa James, who had leased the ranch. In 1950, when the Monument became part of Grand Teton Park , James only had a limited time to remain on the ranch. In 1952 a new agreement was drawn up and the source of supply for hay was Mormon Row lands and the Elk Ranch. The Fish and Wildlife Service agreed to put available lands in Mormon Row into good condition for production of hay and to produce as much hay as reasonably possible. Amasa James died in 1953 and the agreement between the FWS and James was rewritten to be between Mrs. James and his sons and the FWS. This contract was completed in 1956. More will be covered on the Mormon Row haylands later.

Journeying back to 1944 , poisoning of ground squirrels was discontinued that year due to a low "chiseler" population. After that poisoning was not reinstituted.

In the fall of 1944 a large portion of the Teton Game Preserve was opened to hunting for the first time since its establishment in 1905 .

In the fall of 1944 the elk were up x� to their old tricks of raiding haystacks at Zenith (ranching community located near today's Golf Course area).

In the summer of 1945 sagebrush clearning was tried by a heavy road machine and heavy railroad rail on 30 acres of sageland on Tract 8a. These acres were seeded to crested wheat and by the end of August the wheat was l' high and headed out.

The swan did not nest in 1946 or 194 7.

- 32 - Refuge Quarters #4 burned down on July 6, 1948. In 1949 predator control work was done and 42 coyotes were taken.

The winter of 1949 was severe. From a memo dated February 15, 1949 the following conditions were mentioned : blizzards for several weeks and all roads into Jackson Hole closed . At times the blizzards were of such intensity that Qtrs. 1, 1200 feet from the office , could not be seen . Snow slides had been running for )l1E! a week - 5 slides had run from the Butte 1/2 mile north of Flat Creek bridge north of town. One of the slides ran through the refuges woven wire fence and carried 20 panels of woven wire into the swamp. Hoback road was abandoned temporarily due to slides. Teton Pass and Snake River canyon roads were closed for an indefinite period.

In the spring of 1950 the elk stayed late and 7 newborn calves were counted on the refuge on May 20 and 31.

11 In 1951 the movie "Shane was filmed in Jackson Hole. A portion of this classic western was filmed in late August of 1951 on the refuge. A small cabin was constructed at the McBride quarters area and later burned ift a movie sequence.

In 1952 construction began on the new shop building. A log house , formerly located at the old fisheries station south of Jackson was moved to the headquarters area and placed on a foundation (Qtrs . 9) . New assistant manager, Bill Blanchard moved into this house the following spring .

33 = Blanchard began control work on coyotes during January, 1953 with 45 coyote "getters ". Seventy-seven coyotes were taken during that winter.

Two antelope appeared on the refuge in August of 1953. These were the first wild antelope to appear on the refuge since its establishment.

It is generally believed that antelope disappeared from the valley around 1908 . Previous to that date early visitors and settlers ,t-c,Jo reported numerous antelope. There are @'e'O" areas in the valley aamed for the pronghorn: Antelope Flats near Moose and at one time the area around the "Y" on the west edge of Jackson was known aas

Antelope Pass. These antelope migrated into the valley in the spring and moved back out in the fall up the Gros Ventre and down int'othe

Green River country .

An elk exhibition Epasture was constructed during 195!t"and was used to hold a small representative herd of elk each summer so the tourists would have an opportunity to see the elk. This pasture was used until it was torn out by YCC enrollees during the summers of 1975 and 1976 . Vandals had released elk by cutting fence wire during 3 of the last 4 years the pasture was in existance and it was finally decided it was not worth trying to keep the pasture .

The winter of 1956 was another "wild one " and that year 11, 500 elk wintered on the refuge. This is the largest number of elk to ever winter on the refuge .

On May 31, 1956 long-time manager, Almer Nelson retired . He had

33 years of service to his credit. Today (1 977) Almer is a spry

- 34 - 81 years of age and still lives in Jackson. Ernest Greenwalt became the third manager of the National Elk REfuge on July 16 , 1956. Mr. Greenwalt had served as manager of the Wichita Mtns. NWR in Oklahoma for many years.

During August of 1956 , Mr. William We lls offered to seel approximately 80 adjacent acres to the refuge for $30 ,000. Money was not available for purchase. This tract , later owned by the Dopyera's , finally was bought by the FWS in 1972 at a price of $10 ,000 per acre for a total cost of $800 , 000.

A tria l run of using tractors to pull feed sleds instead of horse teams was tried in February of 1957. Two sleds were hitched to a �D-18 tractor. This method proved efficient and the switch was made to tractors that year.

In 1952 , as mentioned earlier , haying operations began on Mormon Row in Grand Teton National Park. Various sections of the Row lf-6. )OX ) were used , as ranches were bought out by the Park Service .l � The refuge did the irrigation work and the WG&F hauled the hay. Later the refuge paid for irrigation and the WG&F contracted the irrigation and haying and hauling of hay out. In 1971 studies were initiated by the refuge biologist on use of alfa lfa pellets as a supplementa l elk feed and the study continued through 1975. The Park Service wanted Mormon Row to revert to its natural state and another source of feed or hay had to be found. With the tremendous population growth and building ofk homes in the valley in the late 1960's and early 1970's , haying ranches were becoming few and far between.

- 35 - Al fa pel lets proved to be a useful and good feed for the elk and the refuge gradually phased into use . The last haying operation on Mormon Row was the summer of 1974. More on the pellet program will be covered later.

Ernest Greenwalt retired in 1960 and was replaced by Larry Means as manager .

Work began on a cooperative park area on refuge land on the north edge of town in 19 61 . The refuge provided the fill, as it was a marshy area and ponds were constructed. The park was finished in time to be used for a 50th Anniversary eel ion of the refuge in August, 1962.

In 1958 the 160 (?) acre Vandeveer tract was traded by the local St . John's Ho�pital for a 16 (?) acre tract of refuge land. This tract was used as a for the new St . John's Hospital.

Manager Means was transferred in 1963 and F.S."Skeet " Dart became the fifth manager from 19 64 to his retirement in 1966. Don Redfearn became sixth refuge manager in February, 1966 and stayed long enoughx to have the second longest tenure as manager at the Nationa Elk Refuge . He transferred to Alaska as Supervisor of Alaska's refuges in June, 1977.

During the 1960 's era many changes and updating was done at the National Elk Refuge. So many people were corning to ride the sleigh rides that it was becoming a dangerous proposition combining hay pitching and riders. A trial concession was tried during the winter of 1966 and an agreement was drawn up with the Jaycees

- 36 - and subcontracted to Larry Moore until his death in 1976. By 1976 2 horsedrawn sleighs per hour left the staging area at Nowlin Creek from 10-4 daily between December 26 and March 31. Everett Luton took over as sub-contractor in 1977 .

For many year s elk antlers were either given out to tourists or turned over to the State. In the 1950's the first idea of having the local Boy Scouts was brought up. In 1968 the st publ auction of antlers was held on the town square in Jackson. Each year under a spec ial use permit issued to them , Boy Scout s and assisting adults retr ieve antlers from the refuge on usually the st Saturday in May . The antlers are then sorted and bundled and sold at public auction on the third Saturday in May. The all time high of funds raised was $19,600 in 1974 -sa� ,is;=-- -iB �. The antlers have become a big business in this area .

During 1966-1967 several old buildings were sold and removed from the refuge in a cleanup effort. These were several old homestead houses later used by refuge personnel quarters and were run down and not worth retaining . The old Qtrs.No.2, the Miller house, was E� not sold on bid as no one wanted it and it was scheduled to be razed ax@R�xw±xkxxkex�xNxR�xHEXXSM�e . The local F e Depart­ ment began to use the place for a fire practice when the local Historical Society intervened saying that the house RRNX�XN was of historical importance and should be retained and restored . Eventually the site was placed on the National Historical Register in 1973 and the Service agreed to protect the buildings for a 25 year period beginning in 1971. The Society has done some stabilization

- 37 - work on the buildings and the buildings are scheduled for restoration when funds become available. It is also planaed to move present maintenance facilities and build a new refuge office/Conservation Center.

Russell Robbins, the first biologist to be stationed on the refuge since Olaus Murie, came in 1968. He has conducted studies conserning the alfalfa pellets, forage, etc .

In 1968 the f st mention of the Highway Department constructing a Visitor Information Center was made. A right-of-way for a portion of the Cooperative Park was issued to the Department in 19 The Center was �0RBXM completed and opened in Dec ember of 1974. Federal agencies cooperated by going in on shares to purchase exhibits. These agencies are the Forest Service, National Park Service, and the Fish and Wildlife Service. In 1975 the State Travel Commission discontinued operation of the Center and the local Chamber of Commerce signed an agreement to operate the Center.

With the burgeoning growth of the valley beginning around 1970, many problems have evolved concerning a planned growth to maintain the valley's beauty and quality standard of living. Only about 3% of xke Teton County is privately owned. The county's popu­ lation has virtually tripled since 1970 and is growing continually. Many pressures have been brought to bear on the refuge in requests for landB use, public x� use, recreational use and so on.

- 38 - As mentioned earlier, sun-cured alfalfa pellets were experimentally tried as supplemental feed for elk beginning in the winter of 1970- 1971. A complete switch to pellets ,a s feed was phased into and completed in 1975. Pellets are purchased on a bid invitation basis and have been obtained from firms in eastern Idaho. Various methods of distribution were tried and in 1975 a 10-ton flat bed truck was converted for this use. It had overside tires for the truck had originally M been made for use by the military in the rice paddies of VietNam. Refuge personnel developed a hopper box capable of holding 20 tons of lets at one time. By use of this vehicle the necessity for hire of extra personnel in the winter was unneccessary. One refuge employee could feed the whole herd of elk in about 5 hours. This is compared to 3 men with tractors and sleighs needing 8 hours to complete feeding of the herd. The pellets were also easier to load and handle and prevented much less wastage of feed than hay. Also, herds could be more scattered and moved to clean feed areas daily or when necessary. The winters of 1970-1971 and 197 1-1972 were fairly severe winters. The winter of 1976-1977 was comparable to that of 1931-1932, having very light snowfall and mild weaher. Feeding was not necessary during the winter of 197 7 and elk had left the refuge by April 26. However at the present writng a drouth is expected for the western states during the coming summer .

The Youth Conservation Corps was created by Congress in 197 1. The f st YCC camp on the Elk Refuge was the summer of 1972 when 24

- 39 - (12 bo_¥s-12 girls) enrollees imx ages 15-18 came to the refuge and stayed in the converted barn dormitory on the refuge. The camp has been held every summer since under two directors, Roger Parrott for 3 years and Ruth Hawkins for 2 years. The sixth year of the camp will be this summer (1977) under camp director Pete Braginton. During the past 5 summers x much has been accomplished by these young folk including � fence building, setting up and for use fencing an Environmental Study Area �by local schools, cleanup of old homestead sites, remodeling of hay sheds for pellet storage, dismantling of unneeded hay sheds, hauling of hay, etc.

In 1974 a cooperative agreement was signed between the Wyoming Game and Fish and the U.S . Fish and Wildlife Service concerning mutual management responsibilities of the Jackson Hole elk herd and other items on the refuge. The figure of 7500 elk was set as the maximum figure of elk to be on the refuge.

Beginning in 1975 a small antelope herd began to build up on the refuge (5 in 1975, 10 in 1976 and 22 so far in 1977). Their survival is partly due to the mild winters experienced the past 3 years.

Some land acquisition has been accomplished and present refuge acreage is now 23,998 .72 acres.

The job of refuge personnel today is far different from that of 60 years ago when the quipment consisted of a plow and a team of horses and the place was christened the Government Ranch by local folks. The refuge crew now consists of: manager, assistant manager,

- 40 - clerk , foreman , mechanic and 2 engineering equipment operators .

The research biologist is stationed here under the direction of the Denver Wildlife Research Center. Paperwork has increased , ideas have changed , but still the original idea of preserving the Jackson Hole elk herd remains a constant goal for the National Elk Refuge of Jackson Hole, Wyoming .

- 41 - ..

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) WYO Teton Wilderness

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It 1s lierrbv orrlcrccl I.hat the ptthhc lands within the Southwesl quartl"r of the Sni:thea"t quarter, Section twe11ty-two , Township fortv-Otll' North, Range < lll hull(lrc1 1 and .;ix(<'l'll WC"i t of th1• �ixth l'ri11cipal i\Jc,ridian, \Vyor11i11g, as st-g-H,..atc d IJ\· th<· hnikt•11 line 11pu11 t Ill' di:q.,'Ta 111 hcn.'lt> altachrrl and 111ark a p..irl of thi.;01 tkr, be atJcl till• sa11H.' arl' hcrl'b:v rcsc:rvl'd a,ul set.apart fur till' use 1f tile 1 kp 1rt 111cn t of Ag-rie11l turc as a r!'fogc and brcc<.hng- grounds for birds. 1t i� 1111lawflll for a11v person to h1llll, trap, capt11rc, wilfullv distu rb or kill n11\ birrl of any kind whatever, or tnkl; the c-ggof such bird with i1,1 the limits of this n ,cr\'a tion. except unclcr such rnk-; ancl rq�uln t io11s as may he prescribed bv the Sccrl'tary of Ag-ric11lt11rc. \Varni11h is exp1 essly given to all persons not to co111111it any of the a_cts hl'1ei11 c·n11mern tcd , under the pe11alties prescril>l'cl by Scctiun 84 of the lT. S. Penal Code, approved March 4, 1900 (35 Stat., 1088) . This rdugc- to be knowu as the Flat Creek Reservation.

WARREN G HARDING

T111� \\i 111n� Hot,sH, Sept,·111her 20, 102:1.

[No. 374-1.)

,. ' ......

FIGURE VI . FLAT CREEK BlRD RESERVE 1922

For] >rotec1.io11 of Xat iv<�.13irdH

4 Em6racing t/2 e sw� of t/2 e SE. of Se c. 22, in T. 4/ JN. R./16 Jt11., 60 Principal Mer/dian,Wy o,r;n/n§, as segregated 6y 1;ol

C •)'J ,_,(:{'. - '-

1 T. 41 N.

I I . I II I,

�- _ [_ - R. 116 W. __ _ 1_ _J

DEPARTM ENT OF TH E INTERIOR Albert B. Fall.Se creta ry GENERAL LAN D OFFICE William Spry, Com m issioner FIGURE VII . EXECUTIVE ORDER

JE1ccutil"e Orbcr

II i, li1·rd,y urd,·rC "tl 111.11 lli1· p1il1li1· l:111d, 111 lhl' Joll,rni 11g ;in•as, ill til t' Stale of \\\1,111111g, "liil'11 h,l\· 1 · 1 11·1·11 ,, lt-.-1,·tl I,.' 11,,. S, ,rdar_, of .-\grh-ulluri• in lll'l'lll'dn11c1· ,, ilh Iii,· fll'l1\ isi1111s "' I ii,· \d "' \la r1'11 I. l!tn (:J, Stal.• Xii ). ht·, :11111 111 1' -..11111· an· lll'rd,.'· n·s,·r\t·d , 111,I ..,1 t apart r...-- use· I i.'· tlu· Dq,:,rl­ llll· lll of ,\grinrltt:n· :is .111 Fil.. lkf11g1· .rnd:.-. .111 .iclcl1 ti,111 1 11 ;1 purdaasl' ar,·:, for sud, p.iq111,1· 11111kr llw .\d ol .\ ugusl 111. J!II:! 1 :1; Sl:tt.. �1:l). :ind so i1ulicat.-d 11p1111 1111· all:11'!1nl 1liagra111 lorn1i11g a part f 1t·n-11f;

111 T. JI '.\., H. !If, \\' ..

"• ,·. I�: \\'. !, \ I-' . · . :\I· .. : \'\\'. : . �- ' \' \\' ..\' I S\\'. } and :\\\'. SE. l : Sc ,·. I I: S\\'. j S\\'. ;: Sn·. :!:! : SE. J '.\ I·:. ' a11d I·:. � SF. t: S,·,·. :!:S : .\II: S<·1·. �I: \\' . � \\'. ; : Sc·t.·. 2�; : \\' � :\I·:. ! :t11d \\'· . � : :,n·. :!"i : L. 1 �:-:. :. S. '. \ \\' . I, \'. � S\\". '. a11d :-,.J-:. l; Sixtli Prinl'ipal :\li-ridia11. EXt·culin· Or,krs '.\' os. lXI I a11d �O 17, cla trcl .\ugusl :!.i. J!lt:I, and Sepkmbt•r 1.i, 1!11 1. r,·spc di, l I.'·, i11 so far as llat·.'· all tT I otlu·r an·as ; 11 T. II :'\.,H. I lti \\'. lha11 thos,· ,1t-slTil1t·t1 al1n\ 1.ar ,· 11111 rn okt·d or iuuclifkt l h,·n•b�-.

WOODROW WILSON

T 1rn \\'11 rn·: tlo1·s r, U .-t µril. 1!115.

'.\11 ..21 ,i.

FIGURE IX. IWLA LANDS

- IJ, ."l \'i orn 1I1g Elx. Ke tnge FIGURE VIII . EXECUT.IVE ORDER £:xec:u · ve ( rder

EXECUT l VE ORD E. R

7 Executive Order No . 217 , dated April 21 , 1915 , setting apart certain are as ther.e in described, in the StatP. of

·Wyoming , unaer the acts of March 4, 1913 (37 Stat.,847) , and Augu& t I 1, 1912. (37 Sta t ., 2

Agri culture as an Elk R�fuge , is hereby modified to include

the Jands ind i cated as additions upon the diagram hereto anne xed and fo r-ming a part hereof, the entire area embraced

ln the Hef uge being also indicated upon said diagram and

further described as follows :

ln T.. 41 N., R. 116 W.; Sec . 12: W\NE\i , NC'tNW\ , S\NW.\i , N\SW\ and N\: 1SE34 . Sec . 13 : SW,hNE,h, S�NWt and S.-� ; Sec . 14: S�NE½i , SWtSW\ and S�SE� ; Sec . 22 : SE¼NE\ and E�SE,h ; Sec . 23 : All ; Sec . 24: scttMt, NEhSW\ and W¼'� ; Sec . 26 : W\NE::.\i and W\ ; Sec . 27 : E�NE¾, S�NWt, N�swt. and SC\ , Sixth Principal Meridian

\\iOODROW WILSON

THE \v HITE HOUSE, 8 July , 1916

(No . 2417 .)

(Copy of above r�ferr�d to diagram not availabl£. )

• FIG.X (Top photo) Refuge Manager Almer Nelson . Photo taken about 1930. FIG.XI (Bottom photo ) Refuge headquarter s/ Manager 's Quarters (R .E. Miller house built around 1898)

FIG.XVI PROCLAJ1AT:,:<;)1'J E�'1'ABLt-$ijING JACKSON HOLE MONUMENT , 1943 .

[Reprint from Fe,1,,ral Register 8:32i7, ilfarcll 1S, 194:l] ESTABLISHING THE JACKSON HOLE NATIONAL MONUMENT WYOMING

PROCLAMATION 2578 be when surveyed the line between sections 4 and 5, township 47 north, range 116 west; Establishing' the Jackson Hole National thence south along the section line between Monument-Wyoming sections 4 and 5, 8 and 9, to the point for the corner of sections 8. 9, 16, and 17; thence BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF east along the line between sections 9 and 16, /\MERICA 10 and 15, 11 and 14, 12 and 13, townsl1lp 47 A PROCLAMATION north, range 116 west, sections 7 n nd 18, a WHEREAS the area in the State of and 17, g· and 16, to the paint for the corner of sections 9, 10, 15, and 16, township . 47 Wyoming known as the Jackson Hole north, range 115 west; thence south · along country, including that portion thereof the line between sections 15 nnd 16, 21 and which is located in the Teton National 22, 27 nnd 20. to the point for the corner of Forest, contains historic landmarks and sections 27, 28, 33, und 34; thence east along other objects of historic and scientific in­ the line between sections 27 and 34. 26 and terest that are situated upon lands owned 35, to the point for the comer of sections 25, 26, 35, and 36; thence south along the line or controlled by the United States; and between sections 35 and 36, township 47 WHEREAS it appears that the public not·th, range 115 west, sectlons l and 2, 11 interest would be promoted by establish­ and 12, 13 and 14, 23 and 24, to the ·section ing the aforesaid area as a n ational corner common to sections 23, 24, 25, and 26; monument to be known as the Jackson thence east along the line between sections Hole National Monument: 24 and 25, township 46 north, range 115 west, sections 19 and 30, 20 and 29 , 21 and 28, 22 NOW, THEREFORE, i, FRANKLIN D. and 27, 23 and 26, 24 and_ 25; township 46 ROOSEVELT, President of the United ncrth, range 114 west. sections 19 and· 30, States of America, under and by virtue township 46 north, range 113 west, to the of the authority vested in me by the act point for the quarter section corner of sec­ ' of June 4, 1897 <30 Stat. 11, 36; U.S.C., tions 19 and 30; thence_ south along the title 16, sec. 473>, and the act of June 8, meridional quarter section line of·· unsur­ 1906 (34 Stat. 225 ; U.S.C., title 16, sec. veyed sections 30 and 31, township 46 uortb, range 113 west, and, surveyed sections 6, 7, 431), do proclaim that the Teton Na­ 18, 19 and 30, township 45 noi·th. range 113 tional Forest lands within tlle aforesaid west, to· the present boundary of the Teton area are hereby excluded from the said National Foi-est; thence easterly, southerly, national forest and that, subject to all and southwesterly ,along the Teton National valid existing rights, the lands excluded Forest boundary to the corne1· of sections 25 from the said. national forest together and 86 on the east boundary of township 44 north, range 115 west; thence w·est three-' with all otherland s within the following­ fourths mile to the west one-sixteenth se·c­ described area are reserved from all tlon corner of sections 25 and 36; thence forms of appropriation under the public south one-half mile to the west center one­ land · laws and set apart as a national sixteenth section corner of section 36; thence monument, which shall hereafter be east one-fourth mile to the present boundary known as the Jackson Hole National of tbe Teton Natlonal Forest; thence south­ erly along the Teton Natlonal Forest· bound­ Monument: ary to the south bank of the Gros Ventre Beginning on the present western boundary River; thence westerly along the south bank line of the Grand Teton National Park at a of the Gros Ventre River to the li ne between point where the hydrographic divide between sections 10 and 11, township 42 north; range Webb Canyon and Snowshoe Canyon inter­ 115 west; thence south to the section carrier sects the hydrographic divide of the Teton common to sections 10, 11, 14 and 15; thence Moi.1nta1ns (within what . will probably be west to the section corner common to sec­ when surveyed section 1, township 45 north, tions 8, 9. 16 and 17; thence south to the range 117 west, sixth principal meridian) ; sectlon corner common to sections 20, 21, thence northerly and northeasterly al ong 28, and 29, thence west one -halt mile to tbe the divide formed by the crest of the Teton quarter section corner between sections 20 Range to the projected position of what will and 29; thence south one-half mile to the :; 2 114R 7--,r n FIV. XVII: NEWSPAPER ART ICLES ON MONUMENT CONTROVERSTY, 1943.

2 - " '-' ING STAT , ( 'lf' , !! State Leader--:\ bonded indebtedness of several ---- thousand dollars." onumenl lo Hunt promiseed 1,hat he and the Wyoming congressional dP.!ega­ Legal Bat s l tion would continue to fight for \ revocation of the monument order. rripple Teton Many persons, Hunt. as."l erted, 1 On Monument holti the opinion that the monu­ ment was Il legally created-that a monument or national park Counly--Hunt could only be establlsh<'d from \ fedeially-owned landi;. Said Likely Governor Pledge In('!Usion of any deeded lands The possiblllcy thn.t Wyoming ! I would appear to be defmltely 11- may challenge in the courtl! the 1 Continued Fight 1 legal. he added. On Land Grab Dealings with another aspect. of presidential proclamat.ion creating 1 the monument situation, Hunt Jackson Hole national monument , was uno!f!cially ! or e c as t here j CASPER, W.v 0 - · -lP.'l T eton pointed out that the state would not have any jurisdiction over Wednesday. I c mnLy faces a crippling financial The keystone for such a possi­ I fish and game in the area. States, bl w If 32 0 00 fel bllity wasseen as Sen. J. C. O'Ma­ o acres of Rocke ler he s aid, do not have a voice in honey's liSSert!on tllat he doubted land r.1·,· included within boun- the fii;hing _or conservation of . the va! Jdity of the act under dar1c o! the contro\'ersial Jack- game animals In any of the na- which 221,000 acrP.so! land In the I tional parks or forests. on Hole national monument, says Ja.ckson Hole valley of western Go, ·rnor Hunt l Wyoming were reserved as a na­ 'Jhe wroming cl1it>f executive, , tional monument area. ctec ln.ied in a radio talk :t.r.onday • There was no o!tlcial Indication nt.rht that t11e department of ln- � that state official� wera consider­ inJtaking the m atter to the courts 1 1,Ior acted with arbltran' and 1 l atc,rlal power-;by nsklng Prci;l­ U congressional action to nullifY. drnt Roosevelt to proclaim the the creation of the monument d tam,. Rep. Frank A. Barrett Intro­ monumPnt then asserte : ducted a bW in congress to over­ "I h!i . e been advisect that the; rule the presidential proclamation Ror.kefe!lt>r interests demanded of the monwnent. hn.ttht' dep artment o·r Interior ln-1 Gov. L. C. Hunt Mid only that Jude the 32.000 acres owned by the Rockefeller interests In the I he was still stud�1ng the matter rr onument in order to avoid the t with other state officials. He pay ng of taxes on the land. hu conferred with State Game 32,000 Warden Lester Bagley on the af­ • It the arres are included \ fect of the monument on game It may be that Teton county may and fish re1IUlatton 1n Jackoon be !orced out of admln!Rtrs.tive, Hole, and ·would tum over any ex1 · <>nee a.� the loss of the taxes\ plan for legal action to Attorney Sl0 ,0 00 '�ould amount to a.bout I General Louis J. O'Mru-r, yea.,l_y. Th_e county now has a j F I G.&V I II. EXTENSION OF GRAND TETON NAT 'L PARK , 1950.

VOLUMF. Saturday, December 23, 1950

Southerly nnd westrrly nlong the nortn , T. 40 N .. n. lliJ W., to n point on. the n11t S25-i nncl wr�I. IJ!\nk or tl1P nroa Ventre River to l!nc or r:�i:. 32, T. 40 N., R 110 W .• north of n point on tJ1e r,·rnt rl;;ht-of••wn.y line nf the. noullw��t cornrr or e�ld rec. J>l; United Stntcs 111,;hwny numbered 167 lu Eoutherly to the projected noutheruit cor� acc. 2,1, T. 42 N .. 1 HJ W.: n-'rof ,51 c. 0, unaurvcyrd T. 47 N., R. 11r, W.: OnAtm TETON NATIONAL PAI!}(, WYOl\llNO n: S·,11 therly nlon,; ll,r c11r,t rl1;ht-ot-wr1y lino F:anterly to the! prnj-C'cter.J northr:u�t ('r � r��-r ORDER P!1E6CllIDING. DOUNDAR1E3 of Unltl'd St'.ltcs Hlghwny numbered 187 to of ar:c. 10, un.s urveycd T. 47 N., R. 115 W.: n polnt on the south line of r,cc. 2, T. 'ill N., BouthNiy to the projected southMst ( 1r­ '\Vhercnfl, the Con1c , 17; IlC!l!nnlnB at the northeruit corner of flee. Snnlrn River: Southerly to the r.outhen,;t cornn or r.r-,' 11: 36, T. 44 N., n. 110 W; Oouthwcstcrly niong tho thread or ntrenn-1 Weoterly to ttw noutl! }'., curn.--r 0r u·c 17; Tllenco weaterly t-0 the northea.Gt corner of tl1c Snnl{c River to n point on the south Southerly to tho wulh ¼ comer or s�.- '..'O; line o! sec. 10; \'\'eotcr!y to thQ northc1>11t corner or ar-c JO; of the T•H•V¼NW¼, eec, 30; .:)o<1-th .ao:;f. lJ f� outhnriy to tho ew�t % c(1rnr.r of e�·,:, �•;!J; Southerly to the noi't-b<> corner or tho \Vc:;tcrly to the nouthwc"t corner of acc. lll; ftllt,, Westerly to tho ccr.ter o! sec. 30; l!W ¼NW¼,ee c, 86; Northerly to the mnln h.ydrogrnphlc divide ; immi-dtntcly BOUtb of Ornnlte Conyon ncl\1" Southerly to the Boutheruit corner or tho F, Ml�rly to th& center of Alec. 30: NE•�SW',;i, i,cc. 30; Southerly tho southwest corner ot £CC. 7: to tho 110uth '/4 corner or ace, ao; Wcr.tcrly to t.hc oouthweat corner or 10, 3, Wcnterly Southwesterly nlong tqo 81\ld divide to Ila to the nortbr1111t corqer ot aeo. i;ec. :io; 2. T. •a N, R. 116 W.; 1ntnso;ctlon wllb II hydme:rn[lhlc dlvhlo . tormrd by tho cn:st or tho Teton l\fountnln Southerly to the northcnat c-orner vr nee. 0255 Hnngl' In �he unsun-eycd portion or T. 42 N., 30, 1urrcycd T. 44 N., n. llG W .. the polnl or R. 117 w.: bt>glnnlng. -..�outh erly to the eoutbeut corn

FIG. XX Refuge Manager Ennest Greenwalt (1956-1960) FIG XXI F. She ldon Dart , 5th Refuge Manager (1964-1966)

FIG XXII Don E. Redfearn , 6th Refuge Manager (1966-1977) FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR

\JATIONALWI LDLIFE REFUGES �ND FISH HATCHERIES IN THE \JORTH CENTRAL STA TES REGION 6 e CRESTON ■ C ROSBY D ES LACS MEDICINE LAKE LOSTWOQ.D ■ ■ ■ J. CLARK SALY ER BOWDOIN ■ ■ ■ DEVILS SWAN RIVER ■ UPPE R SOURIS .A. LAKE .0 • ■ BENTON LAKE SULLYS HILL : NINE-PIPE CHARLES M. RUSSELL NORTH DAKOTA AUDUBON AfHlOWWOOD NATIONAL BISON RANGE ... ■ eG A RRISON DAM ■ U.L. BENO ■ VALL EY CITY LAKE ILO la'\ ■ SLADE lie BALDHILL DAM ■ RAVALLI MONTANA ..!,, ■ • BISMARCK LONG LAKE VALLEY,flTY MILES CITY . r BILLINGS KULM TEWAUKO N @ ■ ■ e BOZEMAN e ■ POCASSE ■ ENNIS SAND LAKE ■ 'WAUBAY SOUTH DAKOTA M A DISON MC NENNY • 1 eSPEA IIFl8H .&.NATIONAL ELK • JACKSON LAKE ANDES WYOMING ■ LA CREEK ■ e G AVINS .---..ry,Nf e CRAWFORD .A. FORT NIOBRARA

■ VA LENTINE ■ SEEOSKADEE BEAR ■ CRESCENT LAKE DE S OTO ■ RIVER e SARATOGA NEBRASKA ALT LAKE HASTINGS �ITV@ JONES ■ HOL '. ■ BROWNS PA RK ■ ARAPAHOE OURAY•

■ FISH SPRINGS @DENVER ■ KIRWIN

• F UTAH LEADVILLE e CEDAR BLUF • COLORADO HOTCHKISS KANSAS

■ Q U IVIR A MONTE VISTA

••ALAMO SA

A NUMBER OF UNMANNED REFUGES IN MONTANA AND NORTH DAKOTA ARE DESCRIBED IN THE TEXT, BUT BECAUSE OF SPACE LIMITATIONS ARE NOT SHOWN ON THIS MAP. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ON THESE REFUGES, CONTACT THE APPROPRIATE REFUGE MANAGER. WINTER ON THE NATIONAL ELK REFUGE

:ome to the National Elk Refuge, winter home of the world )US Jackson Hole elk herd.

PURPOSE This refuge, established August 10, 1912, is administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service of the Department of the Interior. The 23,972 acres provide winter range for 60 percent of the Jackson Hole elk herd. Elk migrate onto the refuge in late October and early November, and they leave the refuge for summer range about May 1. The largest number of wintering elk was 11,500, but the present management objective is a maximum of 7,500. When deep or crusted snow prevent the elk fromgrazing normally, a supplemental feeding program is put into operation.

FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR <'EEDING ¥hen supplemental feeding becomes necessary, usually sometime in February, a pelletized form if alfalfais used. A total maintenance diet is no more thap 2 pounds of feed per hundred weight >er day. A mature bull elk will weigh approximately 650 pounds and a mature cow will weigh tpproximately 550. Calves will average 260 pounds in January. Research is conducted on the efuge to determine nutritional requirements of elk and to work on diseases associated with elk. n addition, range vegetation is periodically checked to determine the condition of the habitat. "'his effortaids refuge personnel in developing an improved management program.

�LK ANTLERS \ntlers of large mature bulls are probably the most conspicuous feature to be noted in the herd. \ntlers are shed annually. The number of points can be used, in a general way, to determine the .ge of an animal. Young bulls between one and two years old have only short, unbranched .ntlers called spikes. The next year the antlers will usually have fourpoints on each side. Older ,ulls will display fiveor six points on each side. Antlers are shed during March and April, and apid regrowth begins immediately. During the growth period, the antlers are pulpy and covered ,ith skin and fineha ir which give a velvety appearance; hence, the term "in the velvet." By mid­ rngust, the antlers are fully developed and hard. Shed antlers are salvaged only by Boy Scout roops operating under a Special Use Permit issued by the refuge.The antlers are then sold at ublic auction in the town square in Jackson.

'1:ARKINGS ome of the elk may have plastic collars and ear tags which have been placed on the animals to id in determining movements between winter and summer ranges. Limping or crippled elk are ccasionally noted in the herd. It is possible they have been wounded during the hunting season r have been crippled by natural causes, or they may simply be aged animals. If the condition is 9rious, the animal is usually removed from the herd. All the carcasses of dead animals are leaned up by the sanitarian of the wild-the coyote.

1THER BIG GAME . small number of moose winter along the Gros Ventre River. Bighorn sheep occasionally ppear on the east border of the refuge. Mule deer are common in the area and can often be seen n the south and east facing slopes.

RUMPETER SWAN .merica's largest water bird, the trumpeter swan, can usually be seen in open water areas. These trge white birds were reintroduced here in 1938 as part of an intensive campaign to save them ·om extinction. In 1944, the reintroduced swans raised their first young on the National Elk efuge, and there are now as many as 25 trumpeter swans on refuge waters in the winter season.

ATIONAL FISH HATCHERY he Fish and Wildlife Service also operates a National Fish Hatchery on a part of the refuge. The ;sitar can see great numbers of cutthroat and lake trout being reared in this hatchery for rentual release into the fishing waters of Wyoming and neighboring States. GPO 832 004 ( I '7t'- ) c., CV (l ,c tre C ') I � \,v <,-l__., (, /j�( - E c; TZ,ocM- .,__ r D u ;:,,,; "� - S-V�- u C..,/,;e.,

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