19_120026 bindex.qxp 6/27/07 10:37 PM Page 400

Index

Cuenca, 208, 209 Las Palmas, 288–289 Abercrombie & Kent, 67 Esmeraldas, 288 , 259 Accommodations, 46–47 Guayaquil, 241 Manta, 272–273 best, 9–13 Ingapirca, 220–221 from Manta to Bahía de Active vacations, 66–91 Latacunga, 175 Caráquez, 276–277 Adventure Planet , La Tolita, 290 Muisne, 295 69, 81, 168 Machalilla National Park, Salinas, 250–251 Adventure trips 88, 258–259 west of Esmeraldas, 291–295 best, 7–8 Otavalo, 143–144 Beer, 371–372 organized, 66–68 Puyo, 321 Bellavista Cloud Forest suggested itinerary, 61–63 , 121, 122, 127 Reserve, 135–136 Aeropuerto Internacional Archbishop’s Palace (Quito), Beraca Spanish School Mariscal Sucre (Quito), 120 (Quito), 42 22, 92–93 Archidona, 316 Beverages, 371 African-American travelers, Architecture, 368 Bienal Internacional de Pintura 35–36 Aries Bike Company, 69 (Cuenca), 209 Afro-Ecuadorian people, Art, 368 Biking and mountain biking, 69 287, 288, 290, 291 Art galleries, Quito, 124–125 Baños, 190 Agencia Limoncocha, 84 Art Marina, 76 , 169 Aggressor Fleet Limited, 75 Atacames, 291–295 Galápagos Islands, 344, 353 Agua Blanca, 259 ATMs (automated teller Riobamba, 199 Airport security, 24 machines), 27–28, 48 Vilcabamba, 230 Air travel, 22–26, 43–44 Biotours (Loja), 225, 227 Altitude sickness, 31, 90 Bipo & Toni’s (Quito), 42 The Amazon, 190 Bahía de Caráquez, 277–282 Bird Ecuador, 72 Amazonas Spanish School Balneario Las Peñas Bird-watching, 69–71 (Quito), 42 (Baños), 189 Bahía de Caráquez, 280 Ambato, 180–185 Balneario Los Helenes (Santa best places for, 8–9 American Express, 48 Teresita), 198 Cajas National Park, 220 Quito, 99 Bananas, 262 Cayapas-Mataje Ecological traveler’s checks, 28 Baños de Agua Santa, Reserve, 290 American Express Travelers 9, 15, 185–195 Isla del Corazón, 280 Cheque Card, 29 Bartolomé, 328 , Andean Birding, 72 Basílica de la Dolorosa 227 Andean condors, 155, 168–169 (Ibarra), 157 Tinalandia, 298 Andean Paths, 72, 77, 78 Basílica del Cisne, 224 tour operators, 70–72 Andes AdrenalineCOPYRIGHTED Basílica del Voto Nacional MATERIALThe Black Sheep Inn, 78 Adventures, 72 (Quito), 118–119 The Blue Marlin Lodge, 76 Andes World Bike, 69 Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Boating (boat rentals). See also Años Viejos, 22 Agua Santa (Baños), 188 Kayaking; White-water rafting Antisana, 80 Beaches, 5 Bahía de Caráquez, 280 Arasha Resort, 81 Bahía de Caráquez, 279–280 Boat trips and cruises, 73 Archaeological sites and finds Canoa, 283–284 Cuicocha Lake, 146 Agua Blanca, 259 Chirije, 282 Galápagos Islands, Bahía de Caráquez, 278–279 Galápagos Islands, 343, 352 331–338, 344 Baños, 185 near Guayaquil, 248 last-minute trips, 338 Chirije, 280 Jambelí (near Machala), 264 luxury and first class, 333–335 19_120026 bindex.qxp 6/27/07 10:37 PM Page 401

INDEX 401

recommended tour oper- Casa de Montalvo Cotopaxi, 167–168 ators and ships, (Ambato), 181 Reventador, 307 332–333 Casa Museo María Augusta Tungurahua, 80, 190, 191 tourist and economy Urrutia (Quito), 115 Cloud forests, 70 class, 335–336 Casa Sol Surf Camp, 82 Intag, 148 Lago Agrio, 305 Casinos Los Gemelos (The Twins), 343 San Lorenzo, 290 Quito, 132 Mindo and Bellavista, Books, recommended, 372–373 Tulcán, 163 135–136 Bookstores, Quito, 99, 125 Catedral, Loja, 223 Podocarpus National Park, Borman, Randy, 305 Catedral Nueva (Cuenca), 6, 207 227 Bosque Petrificado de Catedral Vieja (Cuenca), 207 Tinalandia, 298–299 Puyango, 264 Cathedral, Latacunga, 174 Coca, 308–312 Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco Cathedral, Quito, 120 Cofán Nation, 305 (near Guayaquil), 242 Cayambe, 80 Colombia, 304 Bosque Protector Mindo- Cayambe-Coca Ecological crossing into, 163 Nambillo, 136 Reserve, 85 Compañía de Guías de Botanical Gardens (Guayaquil), Cayapas-Mataje Ecological Montaña, 81 240 Reserve, 290 Condor Bioreserve, 169 Bridge jumping, 189–190 Cellphones, 38–40 Condors, 155, 168–169 Bucket shops, 24 Cementerio General Consolidators, 24 Bugs and bug bites, 90 (Guayaquil), 238 Consulates, 50 Bullfighting, 123 Cementerio Municipal Convento de la Concepción Bungee jumping, 72 (Tulcán), 162 (Riobamba), 198 Business hours, 48–49 Centers for Disease Control Correa, Rafael, 360 Bus travel, 26, 44 and Prevention, 30, 54 Cotacachi, 147 Butterfield & Robinson, 333 The Central Sierra, Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological 17–18, 164–202 Reserve, 85 Centro de Interpretación (San Cotopaxi.com, 68, 69, Café Eucalyptus (Cuenca), 15, Cristóbal Island), 352 77, 81, 84, 168 217 Cerro Chato Tortoise Reserve, , 4–5, Cajas National Park, 342 86, 133, 164–173 5, 85, 219–220 Cerro Crocker, 342 Credit cards, 28 Calendar of events, 21–22 Cerro Dragon, 328, 343 Cristóbal Colón Spanish School Cameras and film, 49 Cerro Santa Ana (Guayaquil), (Quito), 42–43 Camilo Egas Museum 239 Cuenca, 15, 18, 203–221 (Quito), 120 Charles Darwin Research Sta- accommodations, 212–215 Camping, 72–73 tion (Santa Cruz), 328, 342 getting around, 206 Galápagos Islands, 344 Chevron oil company, suit Internet access, 207 Cañari people, 121, 203, against, 303 nightlife, 219 204, 208, 220 Chicha, 184 orientation, 206 Canoa, 82, 280, 283–285 Children, families with, 35 restaurants, 216–219 Canopy tours, 73 best destinations for, 9 shopping, 210 Canyoning, 189 suggested itinerary, 60–61 side trips from, 219–221 Capilla del Hombre Chimborazo mountain, sights and attractions, 207–209 (Quito), 122 80, 195, 198–199 sports and outdoor activities, Carnaval (Carnival), 21 Chimborazo province, 195 210 Esmeraldas, 288–289 Chirije, 279, 280, 282 traveling to and from, Guaranda, 202 Chiva, tours, 188 204–206 Vilcabamba, 231 Chocó Rainforest, 85, 91, 291 visitor information, 206–207 Car rentals, 44, 45 Christmas Eve (Cuenca), 22 Cuevas de Jumandy, 316 Car travel, 26, 44–45 City Hall (Quito), 120 Cuicocha Lake, 4, 146–147 Casa de la Cultura (Latacunga), Ciudad La Mitad del Mundo, Cuisine, 370–371 175 134–135 Culture, 368–370 Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana Climate, 20–21 Currency, 27 (Guayaquil), 248 Climb Ecuador, 81 Customs regulations, 49 Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana Climbing mountains and Cuy, 1 (Quito), 127 volcanoes, 79–81 Cuyabeno, 190 Casa de los Marqueses de Baños, 190 Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, 87, Miraflores (Latacunga), 175 Chimborazo, 195, 198–199 302, 303, 305–306, 314 19_120026 bindex.qxp 6/27/07 10:37 PM Page 402

402 INDEX

Equitours, 78 getting around, 326 Darwin, Charles, 330 Escorted tours, 41 getting there and departing, Darwin Island, 74 Escuela de Español Atahualpa 325–326 DECOIN, 148 (Quito), 43 the islands in brief, 328–331 Delgado Travel, 182, 289, Esmeraldas, 286–290 scuba diving, 74–75 292, 297 Española, 329 Galápagos Islands, 8, Día de los Muertos (Day Estadio Olímpico Atahualpa 74–75, 332, 336–337, of the Dead), 22 (Quito), 123 345, 353 Disabilities, travelers Etiquette, in the wilderness, seasons and climate, 326–328 with, 33–34 89–90 suggested itineraries, 59–61 Diving, 74–75 Exclusive Hotels & Haciendas visitor information, 326 Galápagos Islands, 8, 74–75, of Ecuador, 46 Galápagos Jewelry (Puerto 332, 345, 353 Exotic Birding, 70 Ayora), 15 dedicated dive boats, Exploramar Diving, 75, 83 Galápagos National Park, 88 336–337 Galápagos Spanish School Driving rules, 45 (Quito), 43 Drug laws, 50 Families with children, 35 Galápagos Sub-Aqua, 75 Drugstores, 50 best destinations for, 9 Gay and lesbian travelers, 34 suggested itinerary, 60–61 Quito, 132 Fernandina, 329 Golf, 76 Earthwatch Institute, 90 Festivals and special events, Atacames, 292–293 Ecole Travel Ecuador, 69, 73, 77 21–22 Government Palace (Quito), Ecolodges, best, 11–12 Field Guides, 70 119–120 Ecologically oriented volunteer Fiesta de la Mama Negra Guacamayo Bahía Tours, 83 and study programs, 90–91 (Latacunga), 175 Guano, 198 Economy, 359 Fiestas de Guayaquil, 21 Guaranda, 201–202 Ecotourism/sustainable Fiestas de Mama Negra Guayaquil, 18, 233–248 tourism, 36–37. See also (Latacunga), 22 accommodations, 243–245 Adventure trips Fiestas de Quito, 22, 128 beaches near, 248 Eco Trails, 77, 81 Films, Ecuadorian, 373 cinemas, 248 Ecuadorian Alpine Institute, 81 Finca Punta Ayampé, 82 getting around, 236 Ecuador Volunteer, 91 Fishing, 75–76 nightlife, 247–248 El Adoratorio/Castillo Manta, 273 orientation, 236 (Ingapirca), 220 Salinas, 251 restaurants, 245–247 El Altar, 80 Floreana, 331, 356–357 rivalry between Quito El Angel Ecological Reserve, Food and drink, 370–372 and, 234 160–161 Frommers.com, 37 shopping, 242 El Centro Cultural Metropoli- Fundación Guayasamín sights and attractions, tano (Quito), 115 (Quito), 6, 122–123 238–242 El Cisne, 224 traveling to, 234–236 El Desafío de la Selva, 306 visitor information, 236 Electricity, 50 Galacruises Expeditions, 73, Guayatur, 83 El Oriente, 5, 18–19, 333 70, 300–323 Galápagos climate, 21, 302 climate, 20 Hacienda El Castillo jungle lodges and independ- surfing, 82 (Guayas), 242 ent travel, 301–302 Galápagos Divers, 75 Hacienda La Alegría, 9, 79 Eloy Alfaro Air Base (Manta), Galápagos Islands, 5, 9, 19, Hacienda Leito (near Patate), 272 324–357. See also specific 183–185 El Pailón del Diablo islands Hacienda Manteles (near (Baños), 188 cruises, 331–338, 344 Patate), 185 El Panecillo (Quito), 115–116 last-minute trips, 338 Hacienda Pinsaqui, 79 El Progreso (San Cristóbal), luxury and first class, Haciendas, best, 11–12 350, 352 333–335 Hacienda Zuleta, 79, 154–155 El Sagrario (Quito), 117 recommended tour oper- Handicrafts. See also specific El Telefériqo (Quito), 9, 118 ators and ships, towns and markets Embassies and consulates, 50 332–333 Cuenca, 210–211 Emergencies, 50 tourist and economy Latacunga, 175 Entry requirements, 19–20 class, 335–336 Otavalo, 144, 145 19_120026 bindex.qxp 6/27/07 10:37 PM Page 403

INDEX 403

Quito, 125–126 Intag, 148 La Piscina de la Virgen Riobamba, 198 Intag Cloud Forest Reserve, (Baños), 188 Hang gliding and paragliding, 148 La Proa Bar (Guayaquil), 247 76–77 International Mountain La Quinta de Juan León Mera Health concerns, 30–32 Climbing School, 81 (Ambato), 182 in the wilderness, 89–90 Internet access/e-mail, 40 La Ruta del Sol, 249 Health insurance, 30, 32 Inti-Ñan Solar Museum (Ciudad Las Grietas, 343 Hidden Trails, 78–79 La Mitad del Mundo), 134 Las Palmas, 288–290 Hiking, 77–78 Inti Raymi, 21 Latacunga, 173–180 Baños, 190 Isabela, 329–330, 356 La Tina (Peru), 228 Cuenca, 210 Isla de la Plata, 5, 74, 258 Latin Trails, 68 Otavalo, 148–149 Isla del Corazón, 280 La Tolita, 6, 290 Vilcabamba, 230 Itineraries, suggested, 55–65 Linblad Expeditions, 73, 333 History of Ecuador, 360–367 Liquor laws, 51 Holbrook Travel, 67 Literature, 369 Holidays, 21 Jaguars, 227, 311 Loja, 221–228 Holy Week, 21 Jambelí (near Machala), 264 Los Frailes, 259 Horseback riding, 78–79 Jardín Botánico (Guayaquil), Los Gemelos (The Twins), Baños, 190 240 328, 343 Galápagos Islands, 344 Jardín Botánico La Carolina Los Molinos de Monserrat Riobamba, 199 (Santo Domingo), 297 (Latacunga), 175 Vilcabamba, 230 Jardín Botánico las Orquídeas Lost and found, 51 Horseback-riding, Cotopaxi, 170 (Puyo), 321 Lost-luggage insurance, 30 Hospitals, 50–51 Jatun Sacha, 91 Luna Runtun, 69, 78, 82 Hotel Termas de Papallacta, 82 Jatun Sacha Biological Station, Hot springs 316 Balneario Los Helenes (Santa Jervis Island (Rábida), 330–331 Macará, 228 Teresita), 198 Jumandy Caves, 316 Macas, 323 Baños, 188–189 Machala, 261–267 Papallacta, 137, 302 Machalilla National Park, Hualambari Tours (Cuenca), Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve, 5, 88, 256, 258–259 206, 210, 219 322–323 Machalilla Tours, 75, 76, Huaquillas, 266 Kayaking, 7–8 83, 258 Hummingbirds, 71 Galápagos Islands, 3 Madre Tierra (Puyo), 321 37, 344, 353 Magellan Offshore Fishing Tena, 317 Tours, 76 Ibarra, 155–161 Malaria, 31 The Idealist, 91 Malecón del Estero Salado Iglesia de la Merced (Quito), La Chocolatera, 251 (Guayaquil), 238 117 La Compañía de Jesús (Quito), Malecón 2000 (Guayaquil), Iglesia del Carmen de la Asun- 6, 119 238, 242 ción (Cuenca), 207 La Galapaguera de Cerro Col- Malecón Esenico (Manta), 272 Iglesia de San Francisco orado (San Cristóbal), 352 Manatee Amazon Explorer, (Quito), 6, 117–119 Lago Agrio, 302–307 73–74 Iglesia de Santo Domingo Laguna de Colta, 198 Manta, 268–277 (Loja), 224 Laguna de Yambo, 180 Manta Airbase, 272 Iglesia Santo Domingo Laguna El Junco (San Maps, 19, 45 (Ibarra), 157 Cristóbal), 352 , 91 Ilalo Expeditions, 79 Laguna Quilotoa, 177 Mariscal District (Quito), 15 Ilinizas National Park, 86 Lagunas de Atillo, 198, 199 Markets, best, 14–15 Independencia de Lagunas de Ozogoche, 198, 199 Media Luna (Santa Cruz), 342 Guayaquil, 22 Laguna Yahuarcocha, 158 Medical insurance, 30, 32 Indigenous peoples, 359 La Lobería (San Cristóbal), 352 Mercado Artesanal (Guayaquil), Ingapirca, 6, 220–221 La Mirage Garden Hotel & Spa, 242 Instituto Otavaleño de 81–82 Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal Antropología, 143–144 La Mitad Del Mundo, 134–135 (Quito), 124 Instituto Superior de Español Lammer Law, M/S, 75 Mercado de las Flores (Quito), 43 Language, 51 (Cuenca), 207–208 Insurance, 29–30 19_120026 bindex.qxp 6/27/07 10:37 PM Page 404

404 INDEX

Metropolitan Touring, 73, 169, Museo del Banco Central 170, 175, 182, 196, 199, 227, Cuenca, 6, 208 Olga Fisch Folklore (Quito), 242, 271, 333 Loja, 223–224 14, 125 Mindo, 135–136 Manta, 273 Orellana, Francisco de, 310 Mindo Bird Tours, 72 Museo del Banco Central de Otavalo, 139–155 Mindo-Nambillo Protected Ecuador (Ibarra), 157 accommodations, 149–152 Forest, 136 Museo del Monasterio de la getting around, 141–142 Minga, 156 Conceptas (Cuenca), 209 nightlife, 154 Mirador de la Virgen del Cal- Museo del Quito en Miniatura orientation, 142 vario (Latacunga), 175 (Ciudad La Mitad del outdoor activities, 148–149 Mirador de Turi (Cuenca), 208 Mundo), 134 restaurants, 153–154 Mirador La Cruz, 279 Museo de Tejidos El Obraje sights and attractions in and Moggely Climbing, 78, 81 (Otavalo), 143 around, 143–148 Mojanda Lakes, 148 Museo Etnoarqueológico traveling to and from, Mompiche, 82, 286, 292 (Puyo), 321 140–141 Money matters, 26–29 Museo Fray Pedro Gocial visitor information, 142–143 Montañita, 15, 82, 254–256 (Quito), 120–121 Otavalo Institute of Anthropol- Montecristi, 273 Museo Histórico Militar/”Casa ogy, 143–144 Monumento A La Primera de Sucre” (Quito), 121 Otavalo Market, 15, 133, Imprenta (Ambato), 182 Museo Jacinto Jijón y Caamaño 144–146 Morete Puyu Aquatic Park, 321 (Quito), 121 Overseas Adventure Travel, Mountain and volcano Museo Municipal de Arte 68, 333 climbing, 79–81 Moderno (Cuenca), 209 Baños, 190 Museo Municipal de Guayaquil, Chimborazo, 195, 198–199 241 Pacific lowlands, 70 Cotopaxi, 167–168 Museo Nacional del Banco Package tours, 40–41 Reventador, 307 Central del Ecuador (Quito), Panama hats, 126, 211–212, Tungurahua, 80, 190, 191 6, 121–122, 127 242, 273, 369 Mountain biking. See Biking Museo Nahim Isaías Pan-American Highway, 142 and mountain biking (Guayaquil), 241 Papallacta, 136–138 Muisne, 295 Museo Remigio Crespo Toral Parapente Crucita, 77 Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño (Cuenca), 209 Parasailing, 280 (Quito), 115 Museo Salinas Siglo 21, 251 Parque 21 de Abril (Riobamba), Museo Antropológico y de Arte Museo Solar Inti-Ñan (Ciudad 198 Contemporáneo (Guayaquil), La Mitad del Mundo), 134 Parque Acuático Morete 7, 240 Museum of Musical Instru- Puyu, 321 Museo Arqueológico ments (Quito), 122 Parque Amazónica (Tena), 316 (Quito), 122–123 Music, 369–370 Parque Calderón (Cuenca), 207 Museo Arqueológico del Banco Parque Centenario (Guayaquil), Central (Bahía de Caráquez), 238 278–279 Napo River, 73–74, 83, 308, Parque Central (Loja), 223 Museo Arqueológico del Banco 309, 311 Parque Condor, 148 del Pacífico (Guayaquil), 241 lower, jungle lodges on, Parque Ecológico Artesanal Museo Camilo Egas 312–314 (San Cristóbal), 353–354 (Quito), 120 upper, jungle lodges on, Parque Ecológico Recreativo Museo de Arqueología 319–320 Lago Agrio (PERLA), 305 Regional (Esmeraldas), 288 Napo Wildlife Center (Coca), Parque Guayaquil (Riobamba), Museo de Arte Colonial 312–313 198 (Quito), 123 Nariz del Diablo train ride, 199 Parque Histórico Guayaquil, Museo de Arte Moderno National parks and 241 (Quito), 123 bioreserves, 84–88 Parque Infantil (Riobamba), 198 Museo de Arte Religioso Natural environment, 367 Parque Juan Montalvo (Riobamba), 198 Newspapers and magazines, 52 (Ambato), 181 Museo de Ballenas Nightlife, best, 15 Parque La Libertad (Riobamba), (Salinas), 251 Northern Pacific coast and 198 Museo de Etnografía (Ciudad lowlands, 18, 268–299 Parque Maldonado (Riobamba), La Mitad del Mundo), 134 The Northern Sierra, 197–198 Museo de las Culturas Aborí- 17, 139–163 Parque Seminario (Guayaquil), genes (Cuenca), 209 238 19_120026 bindex.qxp 6/27/07 10:37 PM Page 405

INDEX 405

Parque Sucre (Riobamba), 198 Puerto Hondo (near Chocó Rainforest, 85, 91, 291 Parque Vicente León Guayaquil), 242 El Oriente, 300, 302, 306, (Latacunga), 174 Puerto López, 255–261 307, 315, 316, 321 Passports, 19, 52 Puntudo (Santa Cruz), 342 Podocarpus National Park, Pedernales, 285 Puyo, 190, 320–323 227 Peguche, 147 Regions of Ecuador, 17–19 Peguche Waterfall, 147 Restaurants, 47–48 People of Ecuador, 359 Quilotoa Loop, 177–180 best, 13–14 Peru Quinde Expeditions, 69 Restrooms, 53 consulate (Machala), 263 Quito, 1, 92–138 Reventador Volcano, 307 crossing to, 228, 266–267 accommodations, 102–108 Río Anzu, 84, 317 Pesca Tours, 76, 83 arriving in, 92–93 Riobamba, 195–202 Petrified Forest of Puyango, casinos, 132 Río Blanco, 83, 189 264 cellphones, 99 Río Chico, 82 Pinnacle Rock, 328 cinemas, 132 Río Jatunyacu, 84, 317 Piscina El Salado (Baños), 189 climate, 20–21 Río Misahuallí, 83, 317 Piscinas Santa Clara (Baños), currency exchange, 99 Río Mulaute, 83 189 doctors and dentists, 100 Río Napo. See Napo River Piura (Peru), 228 drugstores, 100 Río Quijos, 84, 137 Playa Barbasquillo, 273 emergencies, 100 Ríos Ecuador, 84 Playa de los Alemanes, 343 gay and lesbian scene, 132 Río Toachi, 83 Playa de Tarqui, 272 getting around, 97–99 Río Upano, 83–84 Playa Murciélago, 272 hospitals, 100 River People, 84 Playas General Villamil (near Internet access, 100 Road conditions, 44–45 Guayaquil), 248 laundry and dry cleaning, Plaza de la Independencia 100–101 (Quito), 119–120 layout of, 93, 96 Safari Ecuador, 68, 69, Plaza Foch (Quito), 130 neighborhoods, 96–97 73, 78, 81, 169 Plaza San Francisco (Loja), 224 nightlife, 126–132 Safety, 32–33, 53 Plaza San Sebastián (Loja), 224 outdoor activities and specta- in the wilderness, 89–90 Plaza Santo Domingo tor sports, 123–124 Salinas, 82, 249–254 (Loja), 224 photographic needs, 101 Salto de San Rafael, 307 Podocarpus National Park, post offices, 101 Same, 291 86–87, 227–228 restaurants, 109–114 San Antonio de Ibarra, Politics, 358, 359–360 restrooms, 101 15, 157–158 Post Office Bay (Floreana), 331 rivalry between Guayaquil San Clemente, 277 Post offices and mail, 53 and, 234 San Cristóbal, 329 Puerta de la Ciudad (Loja), 223 shopping, 124–126 San Cristóbal Island, 350–357 Puerto Ayora and Santa Cruz side trips from, 133–138 San Francisco Museum and Island, 328, 339–350 sights and attractions, Convent (Quito), 120–121 accommodations, 345–348 114–123 , 87 adventure activities, 344–345 street-address system, 97 San Jacinto, 276–277 getting around, 341–342 suggested itineraries, San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Biologi- getting there and departing, 56, 61, 63–65 cal Reserve, 72, 79, 133–134 339 visitor information, 93 San Lorenzo, 290 invasive plants and fauna, weather, 102 San Mateo, 82 340 Quitofest, 128 San Miguel de Salcedo, 179 nightlife, 15, 349–350 Quito School of art, 116 San Pedro cactus, 230 orientation, 341 Quito Spanish Institute, 43 San Rafael Falls, 307 restaurants, 348–349 Quitsato Mitad del Mundo Santa Cruz, 74, 328 shopping, 345 Monument, 1, 95 Santa Cruz Island. See Puerto sights and attractions, Ayora and Santa Cruz Island 342–343 Santa Elena Peninsula, 249 visitor information, 339 Rábida (Jervis Island), Santa Teresita, 198 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, 330–331 Santiago (James Island), 329 350–357 Rafting, 7–8, 83–84 Santo Domingo de los Col- Puerto Francisco de Orellana Baños, 189 orados, 295–299 (Coca), 308–312 Tena, 317 Saquisilí, 177 Rainforests, 5, 367 Saraguro, 221 19_120026 bindex.qxp 6/27/07 10:37 PM Page 406

406 INDEX

Scuba diving, 74–75 VoIP (Voice over Internet Galápagos Islands, 8, 74–75, Tamarillo (tree tomato), 153 protocol), 40 332, 345, 353 Tauck, 74, 333 Volcán Cotopaxi, 7, 80 dedicated dive boats, Taxes, 53 Volcano climbing. See Moun- 336–337 Teatro Bolívar (Quito), 127 tain and volcano climbing Scuba Iguana, 75 Teatro Nacional Sucre Vulqano Park (Quito), 9, 118 Seasons, 20 (Quito), 127 Senior travelers, 34–35 Telephones, 38 Shipping your luggage, 25 Tena, 315–320 Water, drinking, 54, 371 Shopping, best, 14–15 Tennis, 123–124 Waterskiing, 280 Simón Bolívar (Quito), 43 Termas de Papallacta, 137 Waterways Travel, 82 Sky Dancer, M/S, 75 TerraDiversa (Cuenca), Wave Hunters Surf Travel, 82 Small World Adventures, 84 206, 210, 219 Websites, best, 16 Smoking, 53 Terranova Trek, 77 Whale Museum (Salinas), 251 Snorkeling, 74–75 Textiles, Quito, 126 Whale-watching, 7, 83, 257 Galápagos Islands, 345, 353 Tianguez (Quito), 14–15, Salinas, 251 South American Explorers 125–126 White-water rafting, 7–8, (Quito), 93 Time zone, 53 83–84 Southern Amazon basin, Tinalandia, 72, 297–299 Baños, 189 320–323 Tipping, 54 Tena, 317 The southern coast, 18 Todos Los Santos, 208 Wildlife, 380–399 The southern sierra, 18 Tomebamba Hall (Cuenca), 208 amphibians, 391–393 Spanish-language programs, Tonsupa, 291 birds, 387–391 42–43 Tortoises, Galápagos Islands, invertebrates, 396–397 Baños, 190–191 342–344, 352, 357 mammals, 380–387 Cuenca, 209–210 Tortuga Bay, 343 reptiles, 393–395 Otavalo, 149 Transportation, 43–45 sea life, 397–399 Spas, 81–82 Traveler’s checks, 28–29 Wildlife viewing, 89. See also Vilcabamba, 231 Traveling to Ecuador, 22–26 Bird-watching; Whale- Student travel, 36 Travel insurance, 29–30 watching Study programs. See also Tree tomato (tamarillo), 4, 153 Bahía de Caráquez, 280 Spanish-language Tres Cruces, 220 , 311 programs Trip-cancellation insurance, 29 Wings, 71 ecologically oriented, 90–91 Tropic Journeys, 72 Wolf Island, 74 Sua, 291 Tsachila people, 295–297 Women travelers, 35 Sun exposure, 31, 90 Tulcán, 161–163 Surfing, 7, 82 Tungurahua, 80, 190, 191 Canoa, 283–284 Turisvision, 98 Yasuni National Park, Galápagos, 82 The Twins (Los Gemelos), 87–88, 311 Galápagos Islands, 328, 343 344–345, 353 Montañita, 255 Zoológico San Martín Salinas, 251 VAT (value-added tax), 53 (Baños), 188 Surtrek, 68, 69, 72, Victor Emanuel Nature 73, 78, 169, 333 Tours, 70 Sustainable tourism/ Vilcabamba, 1, 228–232 ecotourism, Virgin of El Cisne, 224 36–37 Visas, 19–20 Swing jumping, 189–190 Visitor information, 19