EASTERN AIRWAYS IN-FLIGHT

Yours to keep 58 | New Year 2017

HULL’S BRIGHT NEW YEAR UK City of Culture 2017

ALSO IN THIS MAGAZINE: FOOD AND DRINK ‘BILBAO’ COMES TO DURHAM

WELCOME SGIOBA EASTERN SGIOBA EASTERN chluinntinn. againn, ismuarn-iris, a beachdan munt-seirbheis an-còmhnaidh toilichteur eadar-dhealaichte –thasinn cùramach agusbeagan seirbheis, andàchuid, dòchas gummeassibhar clàraichte naRA.Thasinnan prìomh làn-sheirbheiseanadhair Airwaysammeasg Tha Eastern Eòrp. bho Bhreatainn agusanRoinn air arluchd-cleachdaidhgulèir Airwaysa’curfàilte Tha Eastern FÀILTE Welcome to Eastern Magazine! Airways the investment manager whose millions are turning the town the investmentmanagerwhosemillionsaretown turning Bishop Auckland,where StanAbbottmeetsJonathanRuffer, together inperfectharmonyistheCountyDurhamtownof culture-led regeneration. Oneplacewhere thesecome We alsofocusthistimeonthethemesofphilanthropy and features thebestofBritishdiningnearourdestinations. Starred restaurants, soourEssentialGuidethisissue Autumn sawthepublicationoflatestlistMichelin tell youwhere tofindaBrewdog pubinyourneighbourhood. Brewdog. JaniceHoppertellsthecompany’s story andwe on thebrewing block–Aberdeen’s “punk”craftbrewer, Less historicallyrooted in Scotstraditionisthenewkid his malts–togiveuspersonalrun-down. introduction, sowe’veinvitedConalGregory –who knows Scottish products. Scotch whiskyofcourseneedsno near horizon,we’re takingalookatcoupleofdistinctively At thisfestivetimeofyear, Nightonthe andwithBurns Magazine. to thisChristmasandNewYear Airways issueofEastern Welcome onboard Airwaysflight and welcome yourEastern TÎM EASTERN am eincylchgrawn. sylwadau ameingwasanaethac amser ynfalchogaeleich yn wahanol–rydynnibob yn ungofalusacychydigbach gwelwch chifodeingwasanaeth wasanaethau. Gobeithioy DU sy’ncynnigamserlenlawno prif gwmnïauawyrennau yn y Airwaysymhlith y Mae Eastern Brydain FawracEwrop. cwsmeriaid ymmhobrhano magazine, ibobuno’n Croeso Airways ganEastern CROESO EASTERN-TEAMET servicen ogmagasinet. dine kommentarer ombåde Vi setteralltidprispååmotta ekstra somerprikkenoveri-en. – ogatdentilbyrdegdetlille være medservicenvår fornøyd ruteflyselskap. Vihåperatduvil Storbritannias ledende Airwayseretav Eastern velkommen. Storbritannia ogEuropa ønsker våre kunderi Airwaysmagasinet Eastern VELKOMMEN friends toread. encourage youtotakeyourmagazinehomeforfamilyand We Airwaysand hopeyouenjoyyourflightwithEastern you anotherchancetowinastayintheseidylliccottages. ever entry. So,bypopulardemand,astheysay, webring luxury BlueReefCottages,onHarris,itattractedourbiggest The lasttimeweranacompetitiontowinbreak atthe island wouldbeagoodorbadthing. and wonderswhetherabridgeortunneltothiswonderful Stan Abbottrefreshes happymemoriesoftheIsle Wight In otherfeatures, JaniceHoppervisitsMonessresort, while subject ofourExplorationExpress. drama intheEastYorkshire city, whichis–naturallythe on ayearofcelebrationthatwillseethebestartand told in2017Hullandwe’re happytohelpraisethecurtain Of coursethebigstoryaboutculturalregeneration isbeing into amajorcentre forthestudyofSpanishart. L’ÉQUIPE EASTERN et notre magazine. comment toujours heureux derecevoir vos fait ladifférence, etsommes besoins, aveccepetitplusqui trouverez attentifs àvos Nous espérons quevousnous un servicedevolsréguliers. aériennes britan principales compagnies AirwaysfigureEastern parmiles magazine. Airways de lapartEastern Grande-Bretagne etd’Europe Bienvenue àtousnosclientsde BIENVENUE THE EASTERN TEAM EASTERN THE aires sur notr ­ niques offrant ­ e service e service

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46 MICHELIN GUIDE 22 BUILDING CASTLES 12, 26 HUMBER PARTIES

REGULARS COMPETITION FEATURES

07 NEWS 12 U K CITY OF CULTURE What’s happening around Eastern Kingston upon Hull takes up the Airways destinations mantle in 2017

11 NEWS FEATURE 14 SEASONAL SPIRIT Newcastle exhibitions past and Conal Gregory gives a short guide future to the Scotch whisky industry

18 HOSPITALITY NEWS 16 REBEL WITH A CAUSE What's happening in the world of The rise of Aberdeen legend, food, drink and hotels Brewdog

26 EXPLORATION EXPRESS 21 READ ON… Stan Abbott visits the 2017 culture The National Centre for the capital, Hull Written Word opens in South 10 WELCOME BACK… Shields 36 BARE ESSENTIALS Another chance to WIN a Eastern Airways’ network map, fantastic break at Blue Reef 22 BILBAO OF THE NORTH passenger information, essential Cottages on the beautiful Isle One man's mission to regenerate goings-on and destination guides of Harris Bishop Auckland 46 ESSENTIAL GUIDE: 30 THE ISLE OF WIGHT MICHELIN STAR Stan Abbott unearths more of the RESTAURANTS island’s treasures, and looks at a All within easy reach of Eastern proposed link to the mainland Airways destinations which is dividing opinion

50 THE LAST WORD 38 PERFECTLY PLACED A mutton pie gives Harry Pearson The Perthshire resort of Moness food for thought

Eastern Airways in-flight magazine is published © December 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this Eastern Airways, Schiphol House, Humberside for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Arch magazine may be reproduced by any means, without prior International Airport, Kirmington, North Lincolnshire Workspace, Abbey Road, Pity Me, Durham, DH1 5JZ written permission of the copyright owners. DN39 6YH www.gravity-consulting.com Although every effort has been made to ensure the Communications Manager: Darren Roberts e-mail: [email protected] accuracy of the information in this magazine, neither the Tel: +44 (0)191 383 2838 publisher, nor Eastern Airways can accept any liability for Telephone: + 44 (0)8703 669669 errors or omissions. Reservations: + 44 (0)8703 669100 Publisher: Stan Abbott www.easternairways.com Design: Barbara Allen ISSN: 2044-7124 For magazine comments: Print: Buxton Press Previously known as e-magazine, ISSN 1477-3031. Front cover: Humber Bridge after sunset. © Ben Clarkson [email protected]

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EMPLOYEE LEAVE & ABSENCE ON DEMAND ISO27001:2013 SELF-SERVICE MANAGEMENT SHIFT PLANNING CERTIFIED NEWS n Production levels in the North Sea’s oil and gas industry are experiencing a recovery following the recent fall in oil prices. However, Oil & Gas UK has called for major investment to secure the industry’s future. The industry body reports a rise of ten per cent in production levels since 2014, with extraction costs reduced by a dramatic 45 per cent over the same time. But Chief Executive Deirdre Michie said: “The UK Continental Shelf is in urgent need of fresh investment to boost exploration and drive activity, particularly for the supply chain.” NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS n Figures from the Office for National Statistics suggest employment in North East England is increasing faster than in any other region. There are now 1.2 n Eastern Airways has taken delivery of two modern Embraer 170 jets. The million people in work in the region – an 76-seat aircraft expand the airline’s charter product by bringing a larger aircraft increase of 52,000 over the year. At the into the fleet, which is also equipped for both long-range operations and with a same time, the region’s unemployment steep approach capability for airports such as London City. The new aircraft are rate has fallen below seven per cent for now available for charter flights to destinations throughout the UK, Western and the first time since 2008. Eastern Europe, the Mediterranean as far as Greece, Turkey and Cyprus, as well as the Canary Islands.

Partnership invites retailers to be part of city’s growth Newcastle City Council and business “Newcastle was voted favourite UK city improvement district NE1 are working by readers of the Guardian in 2014 – with businesses to transform flagship let’s build on that accolade to become Northumberland Street, and its the best European city. surrounding area, into a Europe-leading “We’re confident that by investing in retail destination. n The opening of the Victoria Gate the transformation of Northumberland shopping centre – with its flagship John One of the government’s high street Street we can become a vibrant and Lewis store – has taken investment in the tzars, Mark Williams, who was former attractive central retail district, which Leeds City Region’s retail sector to more Chairman of the Retail Property will act as a catalyst for wider economic than £1bn in just five years according to Taskforce, and a Director of the Hark regeneration.” the city’s Local Enterprise Partnership. Group, has agreed to support the The planned improvements are part of partners by independently chairing the The £165m scheme opened in October the council’s programme of renewal, partner working group, and providing and, besides John Lewis, features 30 Re-newcastle, delivering the biggest expert advice on how its ambitions can high-end retail outlets from British and transformation of the city’s infrastructure be realised and funded. international brands. in a generation. Councillor Ged Bell, Cabinet Member n Bosses at Leeds Bradford Airport are Sean Bullick, Chief Executive of NE1, for Investment and Development preparing the final draft of the airport’s added: “Northumberland Street is the at Newcastle City Council, said: Masterplan, for publication around the premier shopping street in the North turn of the year. The plan follows a major East of England and the challenges pubic consultation on the draft plan, it faces are echoed both nationally which sets out the airport’s ambition to and internationally. Due to the increase annual passenger numbers to unprecedented and permanent changes more than seven million by 2030. in consumer behaviour and demand, n it is imperative that Northumberland Eastern Airways Magazine’s printer, Street remains the spine of the city and Buxton Press, has been named Printing continues to compete with Europe’s Company of the Year for a fourth time in Fenwick, Northumberland Street best.” the PrintWeek Awards.

EASTERN AIRWAYS MAGAZINE COMPETITION WINNERS The winner of our competition for a night, with dinner and paired wines, at Hampton Manor country house hotel, in Warwickshire, was Dawn Smith, from Bridge of Don, Aberdeen. 7 OUTSTANDING AWARD The visionary behind two County Durham charities – Auckland Castle Trust and Eleven Arches – has been named Philanthropist of the Year at the prestigious Spear’s Wealth Management Awards. The awards – billed as “the Oscars of the private banking world” A better and faster way – honour entrepreneurs and philanthropists for their innovation, success and outstanding contribution. Jonathan to build your digital asset Ruffer, pictured, whose background is in investment management, received the Award for his outstanding contribution to the regeneration of Bishop Auckland, County Durham. He was initially drawn to the town by a series of paintings by Spanish master Francisco de Zurbarán, which have hung in Auckland Castle for more than 250 years. In 2012, he

NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS bought both the paintings and the Castle and opened it to the public on a daily basis for the very first time. Now, Auckland Castle Trust is working to transform the 900-year- Define, specify Collect, measure, old Bishop’s palace into a world-class art, faith and heritage and share your report and share destination and reinvigorate Bishop Auckland and the wider engineering information your engineering area through social and economic regeneration. In 2014, requirements information the Trust’s sister charity, Eleven Arches, was founded to enhance this mission by producing a spectacular live show, Datum360 provides SaaS (Software as a Service) Kynren – an epic tale of England, which attracted more than for projects, operations and decommissioning 100,000 visitors during its first season in 2016. £100 million is now being invested across the two charities Engineering Information as it should be Jonathan chairs to establish Bishop Auckland as a national and international tourist destination, with the aim of attracting around 430,000 visitors and boosting the local www.datum360.com economy by around £20m a year by 2020. One man’s millions transform a town – page 22 NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS DRIVE AIMED AT AIMED DRIVE HULL WORKFORCE RECRUITMENT MAJOR LAUNCHES SIEMENS Former shipyard becomes attractive hub for renewable and marine energy sectors we continuetherecruitment process.” we’re aimingtomaintain the standard as of candidateshasbeenexcellentand “The numberofapplicationsandquality based HeadofHumanResources, said: Carolyn Woolway, thecompany’s Hull- we continueourrecruitment.” area andthatfocuswillbemaintainedas to employoverwhelminglyfrom thelocal pleased tobedeliveringonourpledge up totheendofMarch 2017.We’re also scheduled tobefilledfrom December big recruitment push,withtheseroles factory director, said:“Thisisournext Jason Speedy, Siemens’Hullblade company’s siteonAlexandraDock. in packing,finishingandservicesatthe Some 140newroles havebeencreated offshore renewable energy production. its £310minvestmentinHulltoserve in amajorrecruitment driveaspartof Engineering giantSiemensisengaged £100million project, led by the £100million project, ledbythe The centre ispartofawider of businesses. Innovation isnowhometoarange away asAberdeen, theCentre for Attracting companiesfrom asfar Council. investment byNorthTyneside opened, followinganear£2million shipyard, atWallsend, hasbeen the siteofformerSwanHunter A specialistbusinesscentre on 75 metre blades produce class-leading manufacturing facilitywill Siemens’ Hull www.investnorthtyneside.co.uk environmental sustainability. prioritise energy efficiency and the workhasbeencarriedoutto as aLowCarbonEnterpriseZone, keeping withthesite’s designation partner fortheproject, andin Kier Property isthedevelopment sectors. renewable energy andmarine shipyard intoahubforthe council, totransformtheformer the supplychain. been created duringconstruction andin of theyear. Hundreds more jobshave employed bySiemensinHulltheturn About 650peoplewillhavebeen components, willcontinueinto2017. assembly andloadoutofwindturbine site, includinganewharbourforpre- Development ofthefullAlexandraDock coming onstream bythe endoftheyear. operational withfurtherproduction areas wind turbinebladefactory, isnowpartly The centrepiece oftheinvestment, investment. logistics inHull’s largest everinward wind manufacturing,assemblyand Siemens iscreating acentre foroffshore With partnerAssociatedBritishPorts, and engineering. attract more womenintomanufacturing technical andengineeringskillsto address theshortageofworkerswith Siemens isspearheadingefforts to Australasia. Australasia. has divisionsinEurope, theFarEastand Cramlington, Northumberlandandnow industry. Thecompanyisbasedin portable machinestotheoffshore controlled bolting,flangeworkingand HTL Group isaleadingprovider of world selectioncamps. has relentlessly demonstratedduring coaches withtheskillsandattitudehe by hisemployer–continuedtoimpress earlier in2016,Ben–whoissponsored EUBC European Youth Championships Following abronze medalwinatthe Championships. in theAIBAYouth World Boxing representing EnglandinStPetersburg, Apprentice atHTLGroup, hasbeen Ben Rees,an18-year-old Workshop the judges with provesBen aknock out 9 WIN an exclusive off-season break on the wonderful Isle of Harris Picture yourself in a cosy traditional cottage, with only golden sand and the Atlantic Ocean for company! Following the popularity of our last competition with Blue Reef Cottages, on the Isle of Harris, Eastern Airways Magazine is teaming up once again with our friends on the Hebridean Isle of Harris, to offer one lucky reader and guest an exclusive off-season break.

During your two-night break you will be Isle of Harris Car Hire are the people to choose if your are able to enjoy a fresh seafood meal at home, looking for a friendly convenient company during your stay on courtesy of Croft 36. Isle of Harris Car Hire the Isles of Harris and Lewis. www.isleofharris-carhire.com Built to accommodate two people, the stove give a Hebridean warmth. There’s also For your chance to win, just answer this luxury cottages are just an hour’s drive from Sky TV, a DVD player and a Bose music easy question: Stornoway Airport and are of very special centre and iPod docking station, as well On which Hebridean island are the design, with turf- roofs blending into the as broadband internet, WiFi and Skype. luxurious Blue Reef Cottages? hillside. The idea is based on Neolithic There is also a rowing machine, while the housing, which was built underground. bathroom includes a Jacuzzi bath and Send your answer to competitions@gravity- Combined with a touch of traditional sauna for two. consulting.com with “Harris competition” Hebridean building techniques, this has in the subject field. Please provide name, resulted in some exclusive features. The Our prize includes a two-night stay for two address and ’phone number and the flight area surrounding the cottages is “machair at the Blue Reef Cottages, return Eastern number and date of your last flight with land” and its sandy soil is a carpet of wild Airways flights to Stornoway, via Aberdeen, Eastern Airways. flowers during spring and summer. and a seafood meal delivered to your door by Croft 36, which uses locally caught fresh Prize to be taken by March 31, 2018, subject Linen and towels are provided, and each fish and other locally sourced ingredients. to availability of accommodation and flights. cottage is equipped with bicycles, picnic Our prize also includes two days’ car hire Public holidays and peak periods (such as backpacks, beach towels and a set of golf from Stornoway Airport, courtesy of our car Christmas and New Year) are excluded. Ground transfer is NOT included. Closing date clubs. Wheelchair access is included. hire partners, Isle of Harris Car Hire. for entries, February 28, 2017. A long curved bay window gives The prize can be redeemed between spectacular views and the under-floor November 2017 and March 2018 only heated stone flooring and solid fuel-burning (excluding Christmas and New Year period).

www.stay-hebrides.com www.scaristahouse.com www.croft36.com

Eastern Airways flies to Stornoway from Aberdeen NEWS FEATURE: THE GREAT EXHIBITION OF THE NORTH

NEWS FEATURE TIME TO PUT ON A SHOW Newcastle and Gateshead have been chosen to host the Great Exhibition of the North in summer 2018. The exhibition is the brainchild of former chancellor George Osborne and forms part of his Northern Powerhouse initiative. NewcastleGateshead was chosen from a shortlist of four, also including Bradford, Sheffield and Blackpool, and will receive £5 million towards costs from the Government. A £15 million legacy fund will aim to attract The Palace of Arts is now home to Wylam Brewery further investment. housed a collection of military vehicles Fires of Invention, will celebrate the The project has rekindled memories of from 1983 but was closed over fears for region’s transition from a world leader in another exhibition in Newcastle, which hard engineering to a digital trailblazer. attracted a remarkable 4.3 million visitors its structural safety in 2006. at the start of the Great Depression. Now the Grade II listed building Three themed walking circuits will focus on arts, design and innovation, while The North East Coast Exhibition is enjoying a new lease of life as pop-up galleries will exhibit art works ran from May to October 1929 and headquarters of the Wylam Brewery. from across the North. attracted 30,000 visitors every day, and The Great Exhibition of the North 120,000 on the last day. Every millionth will return to Exhibition Park, with an There are hopes that Robert visitor received a gold watch. With educational “summer camp”. The Stephenson’s pioneering steam the Depression looming, its aim was event’s hub will be at the nearby Great locomotive, Rocket, could return to showcase the best of North East North Museum, which will host an home on loan from London’s Science England’s industry and talents. exhibition on northern pioneers and Museum. There were three great art deco inventors. A group of 50 writers are being buildings, designed by W and T Milburn, The Great Exhbition will showcase commissioned to write “narratives of the of Sunderland, who were theatre and creativity, innovation, culture and design North”, while other northern cities will cinema designers – the Palaces of put forward ideas for what should be Engineering, Industries and Arts. from NewcastleGateshead and the entire North of England and will start included in the exhibition. The exhibition’s legacy 85 years on is with a spectacular opening ceremony The exhibition will open on Thursday, Exhibition Park with it its lake, and the on Newcastle Quayside, featuring “a June 21, 2018, and last for 77 days, with one surviving palace, the Palace of Arts. bridge of illuminating drones” over the its closing ceremony coinciding with the The attractive domed building enjoyed river. A projection beamed onto the start of the 2018 Great North Run. a slightly mottled life after the exhibition, Sage Gateshead building will chronicle n Meanwhile, golfer Lee Westwood will housing the city’s science museum in the inventive heritage of the North of the 60s, including part of the pioneering host the 2017 British Masters at Close England. steam turbine ship, Turbinia, now in the House Newcastle, from September 28 Discovery Museum, in the city centre. It The festival theme, Blazing World – The to October 1.

Contemporary postcard of the boating lake and Palace of Arts at the North East Coast Exhibition, 1929 11 UK CITY OF CULTURE 2017 EVERYONE BACK TO HULL SPECIAL FEATURE

Back to Ours Festival © Sodium

It was another in a succession of Nicholas Serota, outgoing boss at The year will be divided into four three- balmy September days as the great the Tate, reminding us that the Turner month seasons opening with Made in and good in the world of the arts and Prize will be awarded in the city’s Hull – celebrating the inspiring story of culture descended on the city of Hull refurbished Ferens Art Gallery later in the city’s “revolutionaries”. to mark the formal launch of its 2017 the year, and Hull Truck unveiling an The Ferens Art Gallery reopens in stint as UK City of Culture. ambitious cooperation with the Royal January, with the complete redisplay As they filled Hull Truck Theatre for Shakespeare, while, on the other, of the gallery’s outstanding permanent the revelation of a number of well- the core message of Hull 2017 is: collection, which includes works by kept secrets about the year-long “Everyone back to ours!” artists from Frans Hals and Canaletto programme, there was a distinct The celebrations have attracted to Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth feeling that the city was once again funding of £32 million – more than and Mark Wallinger. A major new 14th finding its voice, recalling its prominent double that spent by the last City of century acquisition, Pietro Lorenzetti’s place in so many British histories, Culture, Derry, and representing a Christ Between Saints Paul and while at the same time underscoring ninefold return on investment for the Peter, will be revealed for the first the point that this will be very much an time following four years of extensive city’s own contribution. The benefits inclusive celebration for the citizens conservation and research at the to the city in terms of visitor spending of Hull. National Gallery, London. and improved profile are estimated at So, on the one hand, we heard at least £60 million. The Humber Street Gallery, a brand new contemporary art space Freedom Festival 2016 for the city showcasing the best contemporary art, will open in January 2017 in the heart of the Fruit Market cultural quarter. From February 3 to March 22 it will host the first major show to explore the work and legacy of COUM Transmissions, which was founded in Hull by artists Genesis P-Orridge and Cosey Fanni Tutti, a subversive collective that took the art world by storm in the late 1960s. Look Up is a year-long programme of

12 © Thomas Arran newly commissioned works by artists © Ferens Art Gallery, Hull Museums Art Gallery, © Ferens © Nik Pate © Octovision Media Clockwise from top: Light projection on Hull Maritime Museum - part of Made in Hull; Pietro Lorenzetti, Christ between Saints Paul and Peter c.1320, Tempera and gilding on panel; Hull Truck Theatre; Hull Fair made specifically for Hull’s public spaces. figure, who in 1642 played an important Mick Ronson, Trevor Bolder and Mick role as Hull became pivotal to the start of “Woody” Woodmansey join forces with Nayan Kulkarni has been commissioned the English Civil War. David Bowie to become one of Hull’s to create a series of light installations most important musical exports. The band across the city centre in 2017. The In a partnership with Aarhus, European Holy Holy, featuring the original Spiders council has also commissioned The City Capital of Culture 2017, Blast Theory will drummer Woody Woodmansey, long-time Speaks, a series of installations by artist be inviting residents and visitors to Hull to Bowie collaborator and producer Tony Michael Pinsky, award-winning architects re-imagine the city 80 years into the future Visconti and Heaven 17’s Glenn Gregory, Tonkin Liu and Hull poet Shane Rhodes, as part of 2097:We Made Ourselves Over. will perform the first ever live rendition of which invite people to contemplate their Blast Theory has been making interactive The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and surroundings and what it means to be artworks for over 25 years, bringing The Spiders from Mars at City Hall on made in Hull. together film, installation, gaming and March 25. technology. The Brynmor Jones Library at the Reflecting Hull’s links to northern Europe, University of Hull will from January 3 to Mind on the Run: The Basil Kirchin acclaimed musician and long-time February 28 host the exhibition, Lines of Story is a fascinating journey through resident of Reykjavík, John Grant, has Thought – Drawing from Michelangelo the life and work of Hull-born musician created a brand new festival for the city. to Now which features extraordinary Basil Kirchin, who has been called the North Atlantic Flux: Sounds From Smoky drawings from the British Museum’s founder of ambient music. The three-day Bay is a four-day festival celebrating collection, including works by Dürer, February festival at City Hall, features contemporary Nordic arts and culture, Michelangelo, Rembrandt, Matisse and new commissions and an all-star line-up which plays in venues across the city Degas. of today’s sonic visionaries, including from April 28 to May 1 as the year moves Goldfrapp’s Will Gregory with members of From February 24 to March 18, Hull Truck into its second season, Roots & Routes. the BBC Concert Orchestra; jazz legend Theatre will stage in cooperation with the The final two seasons feature the themes Evan Parker; the founder of the Specials, Royal Shakespeare Company the world of Freedom and Tell the World. Jerry Dammers; Hull-born Fila Brasilia première of The Hypocrite by award- founder Steve Cobby; and St Étienne’s www.hull2017.co.uk winning Hull playwright Richard Bean (of Bob Stanley. One Man, Two Guvnors fame), inspired by Tunick’s Hull nudes to be unveiled at the life of Sir John Hotham, an historic Hull The Spiders from Mars saw local heroes Ferens – page 41

Eastern Airways flies to Humberside Airport from Aberdeen 14

FOOD AND DRINK distilleries have increased production, practice thishas meantthatsome on ageandafocus onheritage.In opposed tograin,lesslabelemphasis has beenformore maltScotch,as Thedemandinrecent years (Edrington) are seenworldwide. & Sons)andTheFamousGrouse (Bacardi), Grant’s (WilliamGrant Ricard),Chivas Regal(Pernod Dewar’s J&B Rare (Diageo),Ballantine’s and Brands likeJohnnieWalker, Bell’s and America, Scotchshowshealthysales. emerging markets,notablyinSouth in Chinaandcurrency devaluations in Despitetheanti-luxurycampaign older. three yearsageingandmuch isfar year. Bylaw, ithastospendatleast equivalent ofthree billion bottleslast to create Scotch,producing the distillers havetoplanyearsinadvance ups anddownsoftheworldeconomy, consumers confidence.Despitethe up bystrong legalcontrols, hasgiven Theemphasisonquality, backed industry employingover10,000. all foodanddrinksexports–from an UK balanceoftrade–aquarter generate £3.95billionannuallyforthe The115licenseddistilleries every second. £125 demand, withexportsearning flair, Scotchcontinuestobeinglobal With itslongheritagebutinnovative leading role intheworldofspirits. Scotch whiskycontinuestoenjoya he helps as you tipple… choose your industry perfect whisky Gregory Conal eye nights, on an coldWith winter TIME TO GET THE DRINKS IN… DRINKS THE TO GET TIME Club, sourced from aCameronbridge maturation. Diageo launchedHaig accessible taste andnoneedforlong its own.Ithasalightnessinsweet, in anyblendbutfewhavetasted iton GrainScotchformsamajorpart character. and delicacywithsmokinessin contrasting lightnesswithrichness, alchemy largely dependsonnosing, selected andlengthofageing.Such but avariationbasedonthewoods style, suchasthewaterandstillused, latter notonlyshowsitsdistinctive with different singlemaltwhiskies.The of experiencetoplacegrainScotch Amasterblenderusesdecades who hasengagedatop-levelteam. Australian entrepreneur DavidPrior, production afterbeingpurchased by Bladnoch, inWigtownshire, restarted Scotland’s mostsoutherly distillery, Afterlyingdormantforsixyears, the OuterHebrides. only thesecondonetobebasedin musicologist AndersonBakewell,itis built ontheisland.Establishedby the firstcommercial distillerytobe new whiskyregion forScotland,is the potentialtoopenupanentirely plants: IsleofHarris,toutedashaving even startednewboutique-sized Afewbraveentrepreneurs have actually closed. production, andasmallnumber with thepossibilityofrecommencing a fewhavebeenmothballedbut presents a run-down of the Scotch of Scotch the presents arun-down dry taste. and applevanilla aroma andalong mainland. ItsScotch hasapeppery the mostnortherlydistilleryon the changes ofownership.Yet itremains closure from 1930to 1951andmany has endured acheckered history, with Pulteney distillery, foundedin1826.It VisitorstoWickmustnotmiss Old of ShetlandReel. bottling it,usingtheappealingname Glenglassaugh, nearPortsoy, and has beendistilledandmatured at Unst. InitiallyitistakingScotch,which the formerRAFSaxaVord site, on Shetlandnowhasadistilleryat Port casks. Bourbon barrels andfruity notesfrom the sweetnessobtainedfrom older Its heavypeatflavourbalanceswith what appearstobeahardback book. is concealedinacompartmentof 18th and19thcenturies,thisScotch with thehidingplacesusedin from ArrantoGlasgow. Inkeeping illicit whiskytradethatonceoperated Isle ofArrandistillery–anodtothe such astheSmugglersseriesfrom the Oftenlimitededitionsare made, and ChivasBrothers’ TheGlenlivet. character. Theleadersare Glenfiddich Singlemaltscanshowreal mixed withcola. Haig ClubClubman,designedtobe Scotch canbe,followedthisyearby appealing andfloralsinglegrain distiller in2014toshowhow Not far from Wick, at Brora, lies tasting are available Monday to Saturday. Lochnagar, which is a trick as it is not a Clynelish distillery. It was originally a Around Aberdeen there are many fine loch but a mountain of over 1,100m. brewery, taking cheap barley from crofters sources of Scotch. Strathisla, formerly If a rounded Scotch malt with who had been evicted. The current known as Milton Distillery, at Keith, used light peaty tones appeals, then seek distillery was built nearby in 1967. The to be the centre of the Scottish linen Glendronach, made not far from Aberdeen Scotch has a spicy, warming character industry. It dates from 1786 and can claim in the valley of Forgue, outside Huntly. and is greatly in demand for blends but to be the oldest working distillery in the Because of its remote site on the edge can also be found as a single malt. Highlands. It yields a robust fruity style of Speyside, illicit distilling was carried Just 20 miles south-west of Stornoway, with a nutty finish. on for a long time before a licence was at Carnish, on Uig (which is a Norse Close to Balmoral, Royal Lochnagar applied for in 1826 – only the second in word for bay), is the Abhainn Dearg gained its royal warrant when the farmer- Scotland. It is claimed that rooks among distillery, which means red river in owner invited Queen Victoria and Prince the tall trees close to the site would have English. Its Scotch, called The Spirit of Albert in 1848. The couple called in the made sufficient noise to warn of strangers, Lewis, is matured in former Sherry and very next day as the Queen reputedly liked particularly excise officers, approaching. Bourbon barrels, imparting a slightly Scotch and the consort was fascinated by The market town of Oldmeldrum, in sweet appealing finish. The district has any new technology. It operates at Crathie, Aberdeenshire, is home to Glen Garioch, enjoyed a tradition of spirit-making with in a lovely part of Deeside, and hosts founded in 1786, and therefore one of the an Elizabethan traveller noting that three a visitor centre. Local school children country’s oldest distilleries. It creates a whiskies were produced. Tours with a often ask tourists to guess the depth of light smoky style for easy drinking.

BLEND IT LIKE BECKHAM Following the successful launch of Haig Club, Diego – along with its brand partners David Beckham and Simon Fuller – have introduced Haig Club Clubman, a new Single Grain Scotch Whisky created to be drunk specifically with cola.

GRAIN SCOTCH FORMS A MAJOR PART IN ANY BLEND BUT FEW HAVE TASTED IT ON ITS OWN 15 16

Brewdog Aberdeen FOOD AND DRINK BREWDOG HAS ITS DAY Janice Hopper tells the story of James Watt and Martin Dickie, as she charts the rise and rise of Scottish brewing rebel, Brewdog…

The name is legendary, especially in the with atmospheric surroundings that don’t tip Aberdeen area, where Brewdog has its too far into trendy. roots, its brewery, and opened its first bar. And what about the beer? No marketing, What began in 2007 as two blokes, a dog clever finances or welcoming bars will work and a dream has, in less than a decade, if people don’t believe in the product. James spiralled into around 30 UK bars and at and Martin started Brewdog because least 15 more overseas. A new Berlin pub they were disillusioned with what was has just opened, the Southampton branch on offer. They also disliked the stuffy started trading in September and dog reputation of many craft beers when they bars in York and Dalston, London, are in felt it could all be very exciting – rebellious the pipeline. Renowned brews include James and Martin even. Aged 24, they started brewing tiny Dead Pony Club, Punk IPA and the mind- batches of beer, filling bottles by hand and blowing Tactical Nuclear Penguin. This is a selling them at local markets. In only its phenomenal business success story and 2011 Equity for Punks II was launched, second year Brewdog became Scotland’s with each component, each piece of the raising more than £2.2m and welcoming largest independent brewery. As well as jigsaw, these men have got right. more than 5,000 new shareholders. In both the beers that grab the media headlines, their bestsellers are the ones that simply Part of it is down to their highly distinctive years the business grew by 200 per cent. taste good. Punk IPA is the flagship brew, brand of marketing and attitude. Who James explains: “It was a risk creating a described as “full-on, full-flavour; at full- else would launch a beer called Born to whole new business model back in 2009, throttle” – they never do things by halves. Die which came with its very own organ but we’re all about taking risks to make sure donation card? The beer itself is a terminally we’re doing things our way, the punk way, And who exactly is the dog? Brewdog’s first hoppy IPA and as such has a very brief shelf and not bowing to stuffy industry formality. canine was called Bracken, but he moved life of 35 days, hence its title. But launching It’s paid off.” on to the giant beer festival in the sky it with a campaign to increase organ (which only serves craft beer) in 2012, to be donation is not only novel but worthwhile. One massive investment for Brewdog succeeded a year later by Simcoe, named was moving from its original brewery in after the American pale ale hop. In terms of attitude the guys’ reaction to Fraserburgh to a new state-of-the-art site in a fake Brewdog opened in Changzhou, nearby Ellon. This was a game-changer in Brewdog’s next dream is breaking China sums it up. James Watt wrote in an enabling supply to meet increasing demand. America. With a new brewery in Canal open letter to the bar’s manager: “There’s Winchester, Ohio, the plan is to build US something that says ‘you’ve made it’ when The most recent Equity for Punks crowd- offices, a visitor centre, a craft beer-inspired a weird replica of your craft beer brand is funding scheme closed in early 2016 with restaurant and a taproom called DogTap peddling beers through counterfeit taps £19m under its belt. The AGMs, usually held Columbus, on the site. For a company with somewhere in the world’s biggest country. I in Aberdeen, are rock and roll events where its first bar in the Granite City it’s wonderful honestly cannot wait to visit (fake) BrewDog the Punks hear the latest news – this year’s to ask the question, when will Brewdog be China.” He signs off “(real) James”. meeting welcomed Idlewild to perform Top Dog Stateside? Sections of the letter make you laugh out at what was clearly not your traditional loud: James and Martin know how to create AGM. The brand has successfully bred great stories around their products and their loyalty and created its own fan-base, whose business. members aren’t simply looking for dividends or returns. The Brewdog business model and its finances firmly stand out in the traditional Another clincher in the Brewdog story is business world. Initially the men got scary the bars themselves. The vibe and décor bank loans like anyone else would but in (exposed brickwork, iron, wood and naked 2009 Brewdog launched Equity for Punks, bulbs) have created a modern, chilled-out offering the public the opportunity to buy environment. It wasn’t long ago when going shares online. Back then it was the talk of for a pint meant choosing between spit and Aberdeen and North East Scotland. More sawdust or a sports bar. Brewdog pounced than 1,300 people invested and Brewdog’s on a gap in the market combining craft anti-business business model was born. In beers (suddenly with a cool new reputation) BREWDOG POUNCED ON A GAP IN THE MARKET COMBINING CRAFT BEERS (SUDDENLY WITH A COOL NEW REPUTATION) WITH ATMOSPHERIC SURROUNDINGS THAT DON’T TIP TOO FAR INTO TRENDY. HOSPITALITY NEWS

“JOYOUS AND ROMANTIC” AWARD-WINNING ARDANAISEIG HOSPITALITY NEWS HOSPITALITY

Ardanaiseig – which earned a rave review in this magazine The judges commented: “There’s a joyous mix of grand and recently – has been selected by the Editors of the UK Good eccentric pieces... Dinner is an elegant affair, with fine Hotel Guide as their favourite Scottish Romantic and Country cooking.” House Hotel for next year. Ardanaiseig Front of House Manager, David Bryce, The 16-bedroom Grade 2 listed house, on the banks of Loch commented: “To have been chosen by widely respected Awe, in Argyll, is the only hotel in Scotland included in either of experts as the best in Scotland in both these categories these categories in the Editor’s Choice section of the represents an exceptional achievement by our staff and independent book’s 2017 edition. demonstrates the high standards they consistently set.”

New chef and restaurants on menu in Newcastle Restaurateur David Whitehead has a 120-bedroom Travelodge hotel, secured a top chef at his newly more than 41,000 sq ft of office and opened Newcastle Quayside retail space, and a restaurant and restaurant, the Jolly Fisherman. bar have been submitted by Union Retail Properties. Adam Hegarty will oversee the restaurant’s two kitchens, creating Plans for the development were seasonal dishes from fresh seafood initially approved in 2013 to and locally sourced produce. transform the entire development Originally from Devon, Hegarty has into a 160-bedroom hotel. headed up some of the region’s Meanwhile, one of Newcastle’s most most well-known eateries, including © 2016 Hampton popular bars has expanded its Wynyard Hall and The Baltic’s Six offering by signing up to a new New hotel for Restaurant, and has also enjoyed a partnership with Sunderland-based stint at Claridge’s in London. Humberside Airport distiller Poetic License. The restaurant, on the site of the The Botanist, in Monument Mall, has Travellers through Humberside Airport former Waterline pub, is the result of will soon be able to enjoy a brand new added Northern Dry Gin to its New an ongoing £700,000 investment, in World Gin List. Hampton by Hilton Hotel when it opens in partnership with Star Pubs and 2017. Bars. Poetic License was launched in autumn 2015 by entrepreneur and Presently accepting reservations for April, David Whitehead, formerly a rugby managing director of Tavistock 2017 and beyond, the 100-bedroomed player with Newcastle Falcons, also hotel is within walking distance of the Hospitality, Mark Hird. He said: “The owns the Jolly Fisherman, at Craster, airport and will offer a secure car park and Botanist brand is very in-keeping on the Northumberland coast. free baggage storage, free WiFi and a 24- with ours – bold and conceptual – so hour fitness centre. There will also be two A few hundred yards inland on the this partnership has been the meeting rooms accommodating up to 40 Quayside, plans to convert the perfect fit for us and in turn, really 18 guests. former Newcastle offices of BT into beneficial.” Andy Simpson, left, and David Robertson, co-founders of Rare Whisky 101

Angel Hotel, Cardiff n The rise and rise of Newcastle-based hotel and bar operator, Cairn Group, continues apace, with the acquisition of five properties across the UK. Redworth Hall Hotel, near Newton Aycliffe; the Angel Hotel, Cardiff; the Majestic Hotel, Harrogate; the Stirling Highland Hotel; and RAISE A GLASS TO RECORD BUSTING SCOTCH the Old Ship Hotel, Brighton, made up the The value of collectable bottles of Scotch £75 million shopping basket and bring the whisky traded within a half-year period has group’s total rooms offer to 3,000. broke the £5 million mark for the first time The family-owned company now has a staff since records began in 2008. of 3,000 staff on its books and counts the So says whisky analyst, broker and Doubletree by Hilton, Newcastle Airport, investment expert, Rare Whisky 101. and the Holiday Inn, Scotch Corner, among its other prestige properties. The value of collectable bottles sold in the UK on the open market rose more than 25 Cairn Group finance director Richard per cent to £5,771,000 in the first six Warren said: “This is an incredibly exciting months of 2016, compared with the same move for us. We are continuing to break into period last year. The volume of collectable new territories and penetrate new customer bottles experienced an even bigger rise bases.” – up 28.5 per cent to 26,527 bottles. n Norfolk Gin is among Based on current trends, Rare Whisky 101 the latest handcrafted is predicting the UK auction market for rare small still spirits to hit Scotch to reach 55,000 bottles for the full the market and boasts year, ten times the volumes sold in 2010 “a delicate green tint”, and to exceed a total value of £12 million. thanks to the particular choice of local botanicals by makers For more on whisky see Get the “Jonathan and Alison”. Drinks In, page 14 www.norfolkgin.co.uk Collectors’ rankings

New Hilton for Bournemouth’s renaissance Bournemouth now boasts a brand new The LEVEL8IGHT Sky Bar, with panoramic Hilton hotel, offering 24-hour room service, views over the town offers a vast range of a full gym and 20-metre swimming pool in cocktails and traditional British ales on its spa. tap. Schpoons & Forx is chef and broadcaster Matt Tebbutt’s modern British The hotel, just by the Winter Garden, and a eatery, featuring a very lively open kitchen. very short walk from the main shopping There is also a dedicated event floor, eight area, comes as the town is enjoying a meeting rooms and one of the biggest strong renaissance following major ballrooms in Bournemouth infrastructure investment, and the Premier League success of its football team. www.hilton.com/Bournemouth n Graham Riley, pictured below, has been appointed Executive Chef at Slaley Hall, the luxury hotel and golf resort, near Hexham, Northumberland. He brings more than 30 years of hospitality industry experience, having worked in restaurant kitchens in HOSPITALITY NEWS HOSPITALITY Bermuda, France and South Africa – as well as Aviemore Resort and Spey Valley Golf & Country Club, in Scotland. The hotel, which has just enjoyed a £1 million upgrade, boasts three on-site restaurants: The Dukes, Hadrian’s Brasserie and Claret Jug.

n Judges have shortlisted the ten fish IN THE SPIRIT OF CONSERVATION and chip shops that will vie for the In a drinker’s world defined by the rise salaries, rations and equipment. crown of the UK’s best, in January. The ten regional winners, shortlisted in the and rise of craft gins, just how do you Space For Elephants is focused on “chip shop Oscars”, organised by differentiate your brand new gin from restoring the old migratory routes that Seafish are: all the others at the bar. were lost when game reserves were • Fochabers Fish Bar, Fochabers, Moray Well, using African botanicals might fenced, and aims to give freedom to • Hennighan’s Top Shop, Machynlleth just be one way… the founders of thousands of elephants to range • The Dolphin Takeaway, Dungannon, Elephant Gin have dedicated freely across Africa (www. County Tyrone themselves to combining a great space4elephants.org). • Miller’s Fish and Chips, Haxby, York passion for gin with a love for African • Hodgson’s Chippy, Lancaster wildlife. In 2013, they developed the The team behind Elephant Gin is • Oldswinford Fish & Chips, Dudley award-winning Elephant London Dry former City worker Robin Gerlach and • Burton Road Chippy, Lincoln Gin that uses 14 botanicals, including his wife, Tessa, who believe that the • Henley’s of Wivenhoe, Colchester rare African plants, and focuses on first step towards changing the world • Godfrey’s Fish and Chips, Harpenden, resolutely artisan production is having the “right spirit”. Hertfordshire methods. Elephant Gin is produced in small • Kingfisher Fish and Chips, Plymouth Since December 2015, the company batches using a traditional copper Contenders have to fry at the top of has complemented its portfolio with still. The botanicals include baobab, their game, facing appraisal by industry buchu plant (with a flavour similar to an aromatic Elephant Sloe Gin. experts across a variety of criteria Elephant Gin also gives back to the blackcurrant), and the African including menu development and continent that inspired the brand in wormwood, introducing a sharp floral innovation, sustainable sourcing the first place: the company donates note. Tasting notes say the gin’s policies, staff training processes, and 15 per cent of all proceeds from every distinctive nose first yields a subtle marketing and promotional activities. bottle of Elephant London Dry Gin juniper aroma, with an undertone of They also received mystery shopping and Elephant Sloe Gin to two African mountain pine and other herbaceous assessments. foundations that are committed to notes. The taste is complex but save the African elephant from strikingly smooth, encompassing extinction – the Big Life Foundation floral, fruity and spicy flavours, which and Space for Elephants. can be enjoyed both straight and in a Big Life Foundation is an anti- cocktail. Among awards it has earned poaching organisation, which protects is Best Contemporary Gin in the 2016 two million acres of wilderness in the World Gin Awards. Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem of East Elephant Sloe Gin is limited to Africa (www.biglife.org). Elephant batches of 999 bottles. Gin’s contributions go toward one 20 outpost to fund eight rangers’ www.elephant-gin.com THE WORD IS OUT… As part of our focus on culture-led regeneration, we look at the new National Centre for the Written Word, which has just opened in South Shields

The Word, National Centre for the Written test your knowledge with the centre’s fun, catalyst for private sector investment.” Word forms the cornerstone of the town’s interactive quiz. The Word is open Monday to Thursday £100m regeneration programme being Councillor Iain Malcolm, Leader of South between 9am and 7pm, Friday 9am to 5pm delivered by South Tyneside Council Tyneside Council: “The Word heralds a and Saturday and Sunday 10am – 4pm. and its development partner, Muse new lease of life for South Shields town Developments Ltd. www.theworduk.org centre, which will be transformed over the The centre pays homage to the written next 10 to 15 years as part of our 365 Eastern Airways flies to Newcastle word in all its different forms. The striking, masterplan. The Word will act as a from Aberdeen and Cardiff landmark building features: • exhibition space hosting a rolling programme of exhibitions •  a computer gaming area • a FabLab with 3D printers and vinyl and laser cutters •  a library •  digitised archives • a children’s immersive storytelling area •  an OpenZone IT suite, and a café The first major exhibition focuses on one of South Tyneside most famous sons – film director Sir Ridley Scott. The fascinating display showcases six of his most well- known movies: Alien, Blade Runner, Gladiator, Robin Hood, Thelma and Louise, and The Martian. A 7ft high alien is just one of the iconic props that have been commissioned by South Tyneside Council for the exhibition, which also features interactive experiences, kids’ activities, movie trivia and a dedicated mobile app. A smaller exhibition takes a fond look at the lost dialects of North East England, celebrating the region’s rich heritage and culture through local words and phrases that are at risk of disappearing forever. Do you know the difference between a spelk and a spuggie? You can visit The Word and

now • Sir ridley open Scott exhibition Market Place, • i mmerSive StoryWorld South Shields • e ventS and performanceS • l oSt dialectS exhibition • f amily fun www.theworduk.org

Supported by 22

REGENERATION JONATHAN RUFFER INTERVIEW:

spending tens of millions of of tens of millions spending Auckland into the Bilbao of of Bilbao into the Auckland investment manager who is investment is who manager pounds on turning Bishop Bishop onpounds turning the North – and all in the the in all –and North the meets the the meets Abbott Stan Jonathan Ruffer. name of God… of name Photo byBarryPells “HAVING MADE MONEY IN THE SOUTH THE MOST NATURAL THING TO DO FOR ME WAS TO COME UP NORTH AND THROW MY WEIGHT BEHIND WHAT WAS HAPPENING IN THE NORTH EAST”

“It would never have happened had the paintings been in St Albans,” asserts Auckland Castle Jonathan Ruffer, the disarmingly unassuming benefactor who seems to have embarked on a single-handed mission to transform the County Durham town of Bishop Auckland. At this point neither of us knows that his extraordinary vision and ambition will soon be recognised by his being named Philanthropist of the Year at the prestigious Spears Wealth Management Awards. Our conversation is taking place round a table in an unpretentious room in the as yet unrestored Auckland Castle. I have “dressed up” in best suit to meet the man from the City. Mr Ruffer is dressed down, in Neil Watson corduroy trousers and a casual shirt. He has 2014, when the Commissioners parcelled the air of one who knows that what goes on land it was selling on the other side of the in the mind is of far greater importance than River Wear into ten lots. The Roman fort and what hangs on the body. The “it” to which settlement of Binchester, possibly among he refers was the intended sale of a the most significant Roman sites in the collection of 18th century Spanish religious country, was clumsily dissected by the paintings that had spent the previous boundary between two of the lots. “We quarter of a millennium in Auckland Castle, acquired them simply to protect the future,” the palace of the Bishops of Durham. he says. We might have made the observation at the Indeed, in the course of our conversation, time that Jonathan Ruffer was so indignant this is about as near as Mr Ruffer comes to at the sale plan that he felt compelled to act. exhibiting irritation. “We have a major job But Mr Ruffer doesn’t really do indignant, ahead of us to implement the vision we have or even plain angry. He just acts calmly and and we are not looking for new initiatives. does what he believes is right. He pauses, then adds this qualification: “In Having already decided that he should ten years, Binchester will be a central part of spend a large proportion of his accumulated what happens here.” wealth and income on “good works” in In the meantime, however, the more North East England, buying not just the 12 immediate “to do” list of the Auckland threatened paintings by the Spanish master, Castle Trust, of which Jonathan is Francisco de Zurbarán, but also Auckland Chairman, is impressive: Castle itself seemed the logical thing to do. Why both? Because, he says, the great Mining Art Gallery opening August Bank works are “only significant in the castle”. Holiday 2017 The Zurbarán Centre for Spanish and Latin With the St Albans remark, Jonathan American Art opening 2017 Ruffer is essentially saying that the Church Welcome Building due for completion 2017 Commissioners thought that by selling some Auckland Castle opening to the public in Colin Davison, Auckland Castle Jacob by Francisco de Zurbarán rarely viewed paintings in a northern diocese, May 2018 they might be able to quietly realise a few Walled Garden and restaurant opening 2018 So focused is Jonathan on getting the vision million without too many people causing a Spanish Gallery opening 2019 – the transformation of Auckland Castle into fuss. But to sell the treasures of a diocese Faith Galleries opening 2019 a faith, arts and heritage destination of in the South… well, that would have been international significance and, through this, And all this without mention of the planned a whole different kettle of fish. The sense of the revitalisation of Bishop Auckland – hotel and what’s already been achieved: an outrage would have been more widespread delivered, that it seems almost profane to 8,000-seat grandstand on land between the and founded on wider local knowledge of tease from him a picture of how he came to castle and Binchester, from which the true value of these treasures. be rich enough to give away such large spectators travel from afar on summer sums, and just how and why he chose to do Indeed, while Jonathan Ruffer may be a evenings to view Kynren: An Epic Tale of so in North East England. committed Christian, I sense a degree of England. This is the work of the Eleven frustration with the Church Commissioners. Arches Trust, a sister organisation to the Born in London in 1951, his parents moved Fast forward from the purchase of the Auckland Castle Trust, of which Jonathan is to Stokesley, North Yorkshire, two years Zurbaráns and the castle in July 2012, to also Chairman. later when his father took over the running of a travel agency in Middlesbrough. His other connection with the North East was that his maternal grandfather was brought up in Shincliffe, near Durham (he went on to become a professor of medicine at Newcastle’s Royal Victoria Infirmary). But, Jonathan says, he himself was “typical of all that’s wrong” with the region, because, when he left for Cambridge University, it was to be on an extended one-way ticket. Having discovered he had more aptitude for doing a good interview than for doing the job once appointed, he flitted between the law and investment – “something I had a knack for” – until he realised that investment banking was something for which he really did have an aptitude. He founded Ruffer “The reason I have come up here is because, money in trying to help the community?’ and Investment Management in the 1990s and having made money in the South, which is I decided it was. It looked like an effective still splits his week between the City and the beneficiary of these world trends, the way of doing what I was trying to do.” most natural thing to do for me was to come Auckland. To date the most visible sign of change at up north and throw my weight behind what Bishop Auckland has been the arrival of “The people who make disastrous was happening in the North East.” investors,” he says, “are the ones who are Eleven Arches’ extraordinary Kynren, very clever and can see when the market Setting aside the money, which obviously harnessing the good will of a vast army of is high or low but are not astute enough helps, Jonathan Ruffer believes he also volunteers to tell the story of England, with a to know where it’s going. They have the brings two essential qualities: the ability to dual focus on Christianity and the special confidence to see the here and now, but you encourage people, and also to unite them. In relationship of the faith to the history of need the confidence to know what’s going following up the acquisition of the Zurbaráns North East England. to happen next. I just happen to have a and the castle and placing them in trust for the people of the North East, he says, Kynren is staged on land that, Mr Ruffer mind that looks at the world differently from reminds me, was once used for horse racing other people. Although I don’t set out to be everything else that has followed and will follow was implicit in that first act. – it was once dubbed “the Epsom of the different.” North”, he says – and its history as a venue He performs a quick tour of the “I have a very valuable business, for entertainment may even have included financial future via the “tectonic which is there for the people who the “first modern celebration of the Olympic changes” that have hit world work in it and the clients who use Games”. it, so that’s not mine to dispose of. finance in the past and the Having become aware of the celebrated “Zeebrugge storm” that will But because it produces an income I have no need of savings and I Puy du Fou epic night-time dramatic strike at some point in the reconstruction in the Vendée, France, Mr future – while simultaneously happen to live quite simply. But I don’t consciously try to spend very Ruffer set off to meet the event’s founder, castigating me for framing Viscomte Phillippe de Villiers. my questions to him little. I spend what it takes to live the in clichés. There will, life that I do and the rest I commit to “I asked him why he had started the Puy he says, always be charity. du Fou and he replied, firstly for the a winner, but many “Buying the pictures was a clean glory of God and, secondly, for the regen- losers. I think we thing, but the castle was a much eration of the Vendée. I thought ‘that’s know to which camp bigger commitment because, when exactly the motivation that I have in doing he belongs and, you own a medieval building you what I am doing at Bishop Auckland’.” thus, why he is immediately commit to enormous If there is one charge you could never level able to apply so costs. So, the question in my mind at Jonathan Ruffer it is the notion that he much of his wealth was ‘is this an effective use of might ever let the grass grow under his to charity. Clockwise from above: Kynren, artist’s impressions of: Spanish Gallery, Auckland Castle Walled Garden and Welcome Building feet. The speed at which the Kynren project host major conferences and workshops in we need in Bishop Auckland. So if people borrowed brains from the Puy du Fou and the field of Spanish and Latin American art, are going to come to Bishop Auckland we recruited a team to realise an English version as well as offering postgraduate students need to give them enough things that they was hugely impressive. Which prompts me the opportunity to study major artworks and ‘must see’.” to suggest that “private regeneration”, as rare objects while working alongside I wonder if his long time in the City of exemplified by his investment in Bishop Auckland Castle’s curatorial staff. It will be London has brought him influential contacts, Auckland, may be a more effective tool than run by Durham University in partnership but if this is the case he remains typically any number of development agencies. with Auckland Castle Trust and has been modest about it and in turn deflects credit supported by a £600,000 grant from “Private money equals speed,” he says Santander – the bank’s largest single to those he says have especially helped the simply. “But now we have seen other donation to a UK university. Auckland project. businesses in the area investing as well. There are a lot of people supporting The research centre will be complemented “Ana Botín, Executive Chairman of the project, such as a large grant from by the separate Spanish Gallery, which will Santander Bank, came up here. This is the the Heritage Lottery Fund. It’s all about explore Spanish art from the medieval woman who runs one of the biggest banks in stimulating regeneration.” period to the present day. Focusing the world but she absolutely has put herself particularly on the Golden Age of art in the – and by extension the bank – behind what Among other businesses that have 17th century, the gallery will draw on art we are doing.” responded already to developments at the from the Trust’s extensive collection and castle have been local hotels, such as the Of Gabriele Finaldi, Director of the National develop an exhibition programme with key Sonnet 43 micro-brewery group, which Gallery, he adds: “He opened doors which partners, including the Museo del Prado, upscaled its expansion plans at its Toronto you could never reasonably have expected Madrid. This is due to launch in 2019. Lodge outlet, near Kynren. And as I make to open.” my visit, Durham County Council is spending While all this development goes on, work I leave Auckland feeling Jonathan Ruffer is money improving the “public realm” ahead has started on restoring the castle itself to not merely a can-do person but also an of the next round of Ruffer projects in Bishop appropriate period décor. Its reopening, is-delivering person: it’s not just about the Auckland market place. “They do it when and that of the restored walled gardens buildings – there will be training they can see it would be money well spent,” and associated restaurant, just below the opportunities and community involvement, says Jonathan. castle forecourt, are scheduled for 2018. as well as an estimated £20m per year The Spanish Gallery (in the market place This means that Bishop Auckland Market boost to the local economy. bank building) and Faith galleries will follow Place will be a very pleasant place to in 2019, whereafter perhaps Jonathan Ruffer He’s like a one-person development wander comfortably before three scheduled may be able to turn his mind to Roman agency, driven not by government but by his Auckland Castle Trust openings during 2017. Binchester. “The significance of all this is that faith. It’s a faith he says he has had since his Thus far only one date for these is fixed: an Bishop Auckland will have a major collection Cambridge days. But it is not a faith that he August Bank Holiday opening for the Mining of Spanish pictures and everybody’s first really seems to shout about. I find a quote Art Gallery in a former bank chambers, which response is ‘what an odd place to put he gave to a colleague at Newcastle’s will be home for the 300-plus collection of Spanish pictures’. My answer is that we have Journal newspaper that sums him up. paintings and other works by miners and the already got a major collection of Spanish wider community, in the Gemini Collection. “I would never have chosen this way of life, pictures.” but I’m simply about my Father’s business. A spectacular piece of steel and glass will He draws parallels with the regeneration of I believe, quite literally, that I’m called to do rise during 2017 on a vacant plot on the Bilbao around the Guggenheim Museum – this. All the battles that I have, I trust that I’m market place, near the castle gates. This “the Middlesbrough of Spain”, as he puts doing what’s pleasing to God. Whether the £2.5 million Welcome Building will include it. “Bilbao worked as an arts centre and the thing falls flat on its face or is brilliant – or a 29-metre observation tower, offering new answer is that the incongruity of it gives indeed is brilliant in a way I hadn’t thought views of the castle and beyond. great power. If you go to Florence or Paris of – is entirely up to Him.” But it is the arrival of the Zurbarán Centre you expect to see great art; at Bilbao you I guess that’s the ultimate accountability! and the Spanish Art Gallery that will bring to don’t. It’s that tension between being the Bishop Auckland not just national but Middlesbrough of Spain and somewhere Eastern Airways flies to Durham Tees Valley international significance. The centre, due to that sophisticated people come. It creates a from Aberdeen and to Newcastle from open in 2017, will undertake research and tension that gives it power and that’s what Aberdeen and Cardiff. 25 26

EXPLORATION EXPRESS as UK City of Cultureas UKCity 2017 to forward itsyearand looks totrip Kingston uponHull Stan Abbott The Deep makes areturn Visiting Hull for the formal launch of its year in the spotlight as City of Culture, I took the opportunity to bring myself up to speed on the look and feel of the place. I decided to head from Paragon station on foot for The Deep, the highly acclaimed landmark aquarium that is home to 3,500 fish of all sizes. My first visit to Hull was back in the mid-70s when, as a driver’s mate, I had to deliver so-called accounting machines. These were primitive computers that could perform simple tasks, like payroll. They weighed about a tonne, as I remember, and my mate and I were once charged with delivering one up a rickety flight of wooden steps to an office on the fish quay. It nearly ended in disaster as the great behemoth threatened to tumble down the steps and crush us all. I have seen the city evolve since then and these days it is as unrecognisable from that memory as a MacBook Air is from an old accounting machine: most significantly, the fishing industry has all but vanished and retail parks have replaced the quays. The only boats that dock in the city centre now are pleasure craft, in the attractive marina close to my route to The Deep. I notice a nearby street that is home to Marina Court. Its name is Sewer Street – a title that seems to have been overlooked when the posh marina arrived. The Deep, designed by Sir Terry Farrell, stands on the prosaically named Sammy’s Point, at the confluence of the River Hull and the vast expanse of the Humber estuary. It’s a large, iconic building and you could spend many hours here, whereas I shall focus on my personal highlights. These began almost immediately with an attractive

27 metal relief map of the world’s ocean beds: nowhere else have I I returned to the Paragon area for the City of Culture launch at Hull seen the dramatic mountains and troughs of the ocean floors so Truck Theatre via the Old Town, now the subject of aspirations for a engagingly explained and illustrated. Unesco World Heritage bid. I was very impressed by the sheer scale of the public realm works going on in preparation for 2017: just about The “geography” of The Deep comprises a very deep central water- every city centre street seems to have been dug up ready for relaying filled chamber and so the “big ticket” residents – the sharks and the with attractive new pedestrian surfaces. rays – can descend ten metres to the bottom of the Endless Ocean. Nowhere is this more true than at Queen Victoria Square, flanked by It’s the penguins, however, that are stealing the show here these the City Hall concert venue and the refurbished Ferens Art Gallery. days. They’re a breeding colony of Gentoo penguins that arrived at Less auspicious is the nearby Maritime Museum, which isn’t on the The Deep in two batches from Texas and Calgary in 2014 and 2015 long list for a 2017 facelift. Just because it may look today much as respectively. I found the keepers both friendly and knowledgeable, it did when it moved to these, the former headquarters of the Hull while a wall display illustrates the near 20 different species of the Dock Company, from Pickering Park in 1974, is no reason not to Southern Hemisphere birds – most of them are to some extent enjoy a visit. threatened by factors including loss of habitat and indeed there’s a strong focus on conservation. I found the display about how river The museum is in a beautiful building and your visit will meander basin pollution impacts on sea life particularly informative. through a rich history of Hull’s maritime connections. I found the history of the city’s whaling fleet particularly fascinating. From the café at The Deep, you can enjoy a great view up the Humber to the famous bridge, though I did feel there was scope Queen Victoria Square is also where the remains of Beverley Gate, to make this more of a destination eatery, like that at Wakefield’s in the old city walls, were uncovered back in the 1980s. This historic Hepworth gallery or, indeed, like The Deep’s own Two Rivers site does not currently look its best. However, following its recent restaurant. This is open three evenings a week and offers the chance designation as a Scheduled Monument, it will at some point in the to dine surrounded by the aquarium’s star attractions. near future start to look better, with improved access and more

Clockwise from top: Hull marina, Holy Trinity Church, the “country’s smallest” window, Maritime Museum, Hull old town of the original walls revealed. Given that this is the point at which parish church in England. The nearby Grammar School and Parliamentarians defeated King Charles in the Civil War in 1642, its Merchant Adventurers Hall is a fine building opposite the church, historic significance is beyond doubt and as a rare surviving element while, nearby, archways offer subtle access to colourful Georgian in the old city fortifications it deserves the best. terraces. Hepworth Arcade, off Silver Street, is home to interesting independent retailers and once housed one of the first Marks and Later in the day I get the chance to revisit my route through the Old Spencer penny bazaars. Town, but this time in the company of a proud city guide. The ferry landing is a reminder of life before the Bridge, and of the romance A newer city trail arrived in summer 2016 to mark the 75th evoked by taking the boat across to New Holland. Here you’ll find anniversary of the death of Hull’s flying heroine, Amy Johnson. It one of 25 plaques that make up a trail celebrating the city’s influence comprises large colourful moth sculptures, reminding us of Johnson’s on the poet, Philip Larkin, one of Hull’s most famous residents. solo flight to Australia in her Gipsy Moth. They will be on walls in the city till the end of March 2017. Nearby streets have been tastefully restored and on a fine summer’s day you could choose between an ice cream or something a little The trail is a reminder that Hull can boast quite a long roll call of stronger from the Juniper Gin Bar caravan. famous daughters and sons – Anthony Mingella, Maureen Lipman and Mick Ronson, of Spiders from Mars, are just some of the others Just round the corner – past a large haddock carved into the that spring to mind. But on the whole, the city is rather understated pavement and forming part of the Fish Trail (created in 1992) – is – it even makes a boast of having the country’s smallest window: a the new Fruit Market cultural quarter, quickly filling with creative porter’s lookout at the old coaching inn, the George. businesses, galleries and music venues. It has the feel of a smaller version of Dublin’s Temple Bar. Among new kids on the block is the This year is a welcome chance for the city to shout louder and I for Yorkshire Brewing Company, a very fine craft brewery and bar. one will be back to join in the chorus.

Hull was very badly bombed during the War, but much of the Eastern Airways flies to Humberside from Aberdeen Old Town remains intact – not least Holy Trinity Church, where William Wilberforce was baptised, which is said to be the largest See Everyone Back to Hull, page 12 www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com 29 ONE VISIT IS JUST NOT ENOUGH

Stan Abbott finds the Isle of Wight offers fresh surprises with every visit… THE ISLE OF WIGHT

I am never disappointed to return to the door on something previously unseen. houses. This made it one of the Isle of Wight – to visit is to find yourself so-called rotten boroughs, which – up My previously unseen delights on this in a more laid back version of adjacent until the Parliamentary Reform Act of visit were discovered on foot, on the parts of the South of England. 1832 – made it possible for devious water and by car. patrons to enjoy undue influence in Just as the Isle of Arran is often dubbed “Scotland in miniature”, so the Isle of Most people will have heard of Newport, Parliament. Isle of Wight, the island’s administrative Wight has its own versions of the In fact, Newtown was already on the centre, and the second largest town, landscapes and townscapes that define decline when Queen Elizabeth I after Ryde. Fewer will have heard of the South East. There are chalk Downs; awarded it its two seats in 1584. NewTOWN. there’s an under-cliff, like Dorset; there Actually, “new” is something of a are dramatic coves beneath towering I arrived at Newtown, which belies its misnomer as it very likely predates the white cliffs; quaint thatched cottages name by barely qualifying as a village, to Norman Conquest and was originally and half-timbered houses; and take a walk round the nearby nature called Francheville, or freetown. Its wonderful country pubs and tea-rooms. reserve with with Kathryn Wilson, Visitor golden years came in the early 14th Little of this observation will be cause Operations Manager at the National century, when it was home to 60-odd for great surprise, but what I really like Trust. Small it may be, but its history is families and had thriving salt-making is that the island has fresh surprises fascinating. It once boasted two MPs for and oyster industries and was more up its sleeve, so each visit will open a a voting population of 23, living in 14 important than Newport.

30 In reality, the queen was trying to revive a pleasantly sunny Autumn day – we visited a Newtown, and an afternoon kayak jaunt patient that was already close to death, rather splendid two-storey bird hide. This along much of the length of the River having been ravaged by the plague and was exceptionally well equipped with books Medina. French raiders, although a town hall was and a good pair of (securely-anchored) The Medina is a fairly vast river, its channel built a couple of hundred years later in a binoculars and was a great vantage from far bigger than the island’s rainfall could style almost as grand as that of the which to watch egrets and herons on the ever demand. In reality it is a tidal reach imposing church that dominates the village. extensive wetland. extending south from the Solent to almost The restored town hall is dubbed “a town The remains of the old port are accessed the heart of the island. We paddled hall without a town” by its current owner, the via a boardwalk across the marsh and are “downstream” but against the tide towards National Trust, whose land-holdings are now useable only by the smallest of boats at Cowes, then allowing the tide to help us on helping to preserve the ancient street higher tides, such has been the advance of a journey of discovery back to the heart of pattern. The original householders enjoyed silt. Even quite modest yachts (of which Newport. the use of plots of land, large enough for there are many) sit some distance offshore. It was a trip that opened up a different side modest crops and raising a few animals and Adjacent to the port building are the of the town to our gaze, revealing the extent these still punctuate the sleepy streetscape remains of the old saltpans. Of the oyster to which the island still earns its living from of neatly kept cottages. beds, no sign endures. the sea. Only those warehouses now Kathryn took us out onto the nearby My water-based discoveries came courtesy surplus to requirements have earned new National Nature Reserve, where – on a of the Medina Valley Centre, on the edge of life as waterside apartments and the

Newtown Creek and the National Nature Reserve – a haven for birdlife such as swans, above. Top right: the restored town hall. Images: Visit Isle of Wight St George’s Church and the Shipwreck Centre and Maritime Museum, Arreton THE SHIPWRECK CENTRE AND MARITIME MUSEUM IS JAMMED TO THE RAFTERS WITH CURIOUS AND AT TIMES REMARKABLE ARTEFACTS chandlers’ yards and boathouses remain occasion, however, I was drawn in by a sign “merman” and other relics. Martin has dived busy. We passed the large facility at the inviting me to the Shipwreck Centre and to hundreds of shipwrecks both around the Vestas wind turbine blade plant and Maritime Museum. Given that Arreton is Isle of Wight and around the world. His eventually found ourselves at a junction in about as far from the sea as you can get on collection has been on display since his the heart of town, from where we paddled a modestly sized island, I could hardly resist museum first opened in Bembridge, in 1978. our craft through a long tunnel beneath a and the rewards for such weakness were The museum outgrew its home there and road, feeling vaguely like bargemen may copious! moved to Arreton Barns in 2006. have felt in days when their craft routinely The displays also tell the stories behind navigated tight tunnels. This is a museum jammed to the rafters with curious and at times remarkable artefacts. shipwrecks, including famous local wrecks It was returning by car from a Segway At its core is a collection of objects of such as the sailing ships Clarendon and session at the east of the island that I chose varying age that have been collected from Sirenia and the steamship Mendi. The to visit a location I had only driven past on seabed over four decades by diver, Martin museum is also home to the archives and previous visits. This was because the collections of Bembridge Lifeboat and the Woodward. Arreton Barns Craft Village had always staff are friendly and ever helpful. All in all, looked just a bit too twee, with its faux- There is Spanish gold and silver, an antique well worth the stop. Also in Arreton is the rustique wooden buildings. On this diving bell, ship models, the curious oldest church on the island, St George’s,

Osborne House Image: Visit Isle of Wight Carisbrooke Castle, Newport Image: Visit Isle of Wight

which boasts a Saxon doorway and home. It was reassuring, if distressing, to few. For me, the Isle of Wight is one of those window. The addition of a new aisle in the hear that the cold Spring had impacted places to which you just have to keep on Norman period gives it an odd shape, while every bit as much on this commercial coming back. the West Tower has the look of a medieval operation as on my own vines in the North spaceship. Also well worth a closer look! of England, which struggled to muster a www.visitisleofwight.co.uk harvest worth picking in 2016. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/newtown- Other things old on the island include national-nature-reserve Adgestone Vineyard, at the foot of an So, my four new Isle of Wight discoveries… www.medinavalleycentre.org.uk attractive chalk escarpment. This is not only But there are of course a great many places http://shipwreckcentre.com/ among the oldest vineyards in the country, I have seen previously but didn’t have time www.adgestonevineyard.co.uk but is also home to one of the oldest to revisit on a short weekend. Carisbrooke commercial wine cellars in the country. Castle is always worth a call, as is Queen Eastern Airways flies to Southampton from Impressively, the vineyard grows its own Victoria’s magnificent Osborne House, the Leeds Bradford and Aberdeen. Ferries to ginger for its ginger wine, though I stuck to a island’s zoo and Alum Bay, with its coloured the Isle of Wight run from Portsmouth, very pleasant bottle of blush wine to take sands, and the garlic farm, to mention but a Southampton and Lymington 33 A BRIDGE TOO FAR? The Isle of Wight is beautiful place to live or visit, but its economy lags behind the rest

THE ISLE OF WIGHT of the South of England, limiting prospects for young people in particular. But would a bridge or tunnel provide the answer. We present arguments on both sides and reflect on lessons from elsewhere…

If the waters of the Solent that divide even bothered with carrying out a revenues held in trust for the benefit of the Isle of Wight from Hampshire and lengthy cost-benefit analysis – and that islanders. Dorset were in a country other than the was probably as true even before the In fact, as soon as you start trying to UK, the chances are we wouldn’t be country’s oil wealth was realised. That cost these mega-projects in opening our pages to this debate. is because such links are viewed in broader philosophical terms: it’s about conventional economic terms – say by People on both sides of the argument the need to deliver connectivity to as using borrowed money to build them over whether the island should be much of the population as possible. and recouping this through driver tolls connected to the mainland by fixed link – you open the door to trouble. (tunnel, bridge or a combination of Take the UK’s near Atlantic neighbour, both) present lots of facts in support of the Faroe Islands, where you’d be The Channel Tunnel is perhaps the their arguments. forgiven to think the population had troll most spectacular example of a failure genes, such is the extent of the tunnel to finance a huge infrastructure project But the single biggest fact is that UK network, which bores through privately – through a combination of spends a lot of time talking about major mountains and beneath the sea. One bank loans and share offers. infrastructure projects and rather less recently completed tunnel serves a tiny Unsurprisingly financing and building actually realising them. Putting to one village of 12 homes, previously only costs over-ran by 80 per cent and it side the endless debate about new accessible on foot over a mountain. It was the shareholders who lost out. In runways for the South, our recent cost the government £1 million per Ålesund, Norway, an ambitious scheme history is littered with examples of big resident, but there is no toll. to link the various parts of the island projects that either happened years late city to each other and to the mainland or have yet to leave the debating Contrast this with Shetland, 200 miles was delivered more or less to budget, chamber – and the idea of connecting to the south-east, where the authorities but interest rates had meanwhile the Isle of Wight to Hampshire or spent more than £7 million trying to find a water-tight economic justification for soared and by the time the bridge and Dorset is one that’s been around for a short link from Lerwick to the island tunnel company went bust it owed decades. of Bressay before ditching the whole more than it had borrowed, despite Now, if this was Norway, they’d have idea. And it’s not as though money is having recouped more than the capital built a link years ago and probably not short in Shetland, thanks to its oil costs in motor tolls.

The Fehmarnbelt fixed link – an immersed tunnel currently in construction, which will connect the Danish island of Lolland with the German island of Fehmarn. At 18 kilometres, it will be the world's longest of its type for both road and rail Image Femern A/S

34 34 It’s worth remembering that construction On the island it rose from a mere £16,300 to – linking the second largest town, Klaksvík, companies have a vested interest in seeing £20,600. So, the argument goes, for those with the rest of the archipelago via a these big schemes go ahead and will in work on the Island, pay is now 71.8 per sub-sea tunnel more than four miles long – generally look on the optimistic side of the cent of what people could earn working in the most obvious unintended consequence financial model. It’s also wise to reflect that Hampshire, compared with 73.8 per cent in was an immediate fall in population as the there are two universal truths in 2000. town’s needs could be served from outside construction: firstly, yes it will always cost its island. Yet, over the same period, Pro-Link claims more than forecast, and secondly, there will ferry prices have risen well ahead of The DHC report says that the loss of always be unforeseen outcomes. inflation. insularity raises big questions about island Perhaps because the long debate about a identity and the nature of our remoter “We need a fixed link as a key way of fixed link to the Isle of Wight has been communities. turning around this depressing economic framed in economic terms and no-one decline,” it says. – What sort of rural and remote areas do really knows where the money would come people want? from, people that you might expect to hold Pro-Link has cited the Skye bridge as a – What is the role of government in strong views about the project seem powerful example in support of its supporting this? instead to sit resolutely on the fence. The campaign, quoting strong growth in the – How can we make the right transport Isle of Wight Council is all in favour of more entrepreneurial sector. But ten years after decisions given the high costs and studies, but that feels a bit like just kicking that bridge was built and opened under the long-term benefits? the ball into the long grass. terms of a questionable private finance initiative contract, a report by consultants It is these less tangible questions that may This means that the case for promoting DHC actually painted a rather more ultimately decide whether the Isle of Wight a fixed a link has been left to a voluntary ambiguous picture. gets a link or not. Pro-Link wants to end body, Pro-Link, formed in March 2015, with what it sees as a stranglehold by two private a management committee of six Island resi- When the bridge opened, the short ferry link equity-owned ferry companies to share the dents who “are helping secure a brighter, from Kyle to Kyelakin closed and road tolls wealth of Hampshire and Dorset more more connected future for the Isle of Wight”. were set at just slightly less than the ferry evenly with islanders. price. The Scottish Government first Pro-Link identifies powerful economic reduced tolls and then removed them arguments to justify spending between £1.2 Opponents fear the proposed links would altogether in December 2004. Some 60 per billion and £1.6 billion to create a tunnel link render ferry links, to Lymington, and more cent of the economic benefit for Skye is across the Solent. The organisation’s importantly Portsmouth, non-viable. They attributable to this action rather than to the current favourite alignment would be from fear the island’s quaint road infrastructure building of the bridge per se, says the Whippingham to the motorway, near simply couldn’t cope with the influx of traffic report. The big winners, it says, have been Gosport (between Southampton and from the mainland and that local people, far small entrepreneurs and quality providers of Portsmouth), ahead of other alternatives to from becoming better off, would be priced accommodation and other services. Local either Southampton (from East Cowes) or out of the housing market. To some extent, businesses that relied on their insularity Lepe, just south of the Fawley oil refinery events on Skye do hint at all these possible have lost out, and this includes the lower (from Thorness, west of Cowes). All three outcomes. end of the tourism market. The comparative proposals comprise a submersible tunnel inefficiency of island-based businesses has However, Carl Feeney, founder of Pro-Link, with new bridge and road links, and none is been exposed by their poor performance in said: “I am 100 per cent certain one day the at the narrowest (only a mile or so) crossing tenders against mainland competition. At Island will have a fixed link.” point, from Yarmouth, at the western end of the same time, new investment by outsiders the island, to near Lymington. A crossing Ultimately those charged with making a has forced up prices for local people – 30 here would raise major environmental decision on a fixed link may be so uncertain per cent of house-buyers are now from concerns and it would involve a huge detour of the eventual social and economic outside Scotland. The two remaining ferry for most traffic. outcomes that they will opt for an Island- routes to Skye are now almost exclusively wide referendum. And we all know that Pro-Link cites a 1998 feasibility study by used by tourists, who seem to be enjoying referenda can come up with unexpected KPMG, which argued that the economic more, but shorter, stays on Skye. answers, don’t we?! position of the Isle of Wight would decline Perhaps most tellingly, the report says that relative to the mainland without a fixed link. demand for the bridge could not be forecast Eastern Airways flies to Southampton from This has been borne out by reality, it says, without knowing what these wider Aberdeen and Leeds Bradford. Ferry with unemployment having risen faster in economic impacts would be. In other connections are by Red Funnel from the decade from 2001 to 2011 to a figure of words, the value of detailed economic Southampton, and Wightlink from 5.26 per cent, up 1.65 per cent and above forecasting is questionable because there Lymington and Portsmouth, as well as the UK average of 4.92 per cent. are just too many unknowns. Hovertravel (foot passengers only) from Portsmouth. Over the same period, average income in In the case of the construction of the Hampshire rose from £22,091 to £28,700. longest tunnel to date in the Faroe Islands Pro-Link is at solentfreedomtunnel.co.uk

IT’S WISE TO REFLECT THAT THERE ARE TWO UNIVERSAL TRUTHS IN CONSTRUCTION: FIRSTLY, YES IT WILL ALWAYS COST MORE THAN FORECAST, AND SECONDLY, THERE WILL ALWAYS BE UNFORESEEN OUTCOMES. WELCOME TO OUR BARE ESSENTIALS Information on our routes, fleet, passenger experience and suggestions for what to do when you arrive at your destination. BARE ESSENTIALS

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The Air Discount Scheme (ADS) was brought in by the Scottish Government most of your ticketless travel, pioneered by Once again our aim is to make your travel as for the benefit of the remotest communi- Eastern Airways a decade ago. pleasant an experience as possible and we ties in the Highlands and Islands and Fast Track is currently available at Aberdeen, wish you a most enjoyable trip. provides a discount of 50 per cent on the core air fare on eligible routes. SAFETY AND SECURITY Routes eligible with Eastern Airways are Stornoway to Aberdeen and Wick to Above all else, we want you to enjoy flying Aberdeen. with us and we’re confident that in the overwhelming majority of cases you will do For more information on flying for so. However, while the vast majority of less, see www.easternairways.com, passengers flying in the world today behave or contact your travel agent or our impeccably, there is a greater awareness of reservations team on 08703 669100. isolated incidents of disruptive behaviour, sometimes dubbed “air rage”. While this LASER DEVICES isn’t a major problem at Eastern Airways, the A safety issue that has been raised in the safety and security of our passengers and authorities on arrival and may face arrest airline industry and which has attracted crew is our number one priority and we and a heavy fine – or up to two years in jail. some wider publicity recently is the number don’t want our customers to experience any Severe restrictions will also be placed on of laser attacks against aircraft. It is a matter behaviour that makes them feel their future travel with Eastern Airways. uncomfortable, or to be put in a situation about which the Civil Aviation Authority that compromises safety. Similarly, we remind customers that there (CAA) is very concerned. is a strict No Smoking policy on board all Targeting an aircraft with a laser is reckless, Our Zero Tolerance policy is directed at of our aircraft and in all of our lounges. This dangerous and also illegal. Just a microsec- disruptive behaviour, which might include includes the use of electronic cigarettes ond of laser energy from a powerful laser smoking, drunkenness, aggression or or any cigarette substitute device that source is enough to permanently damage abusive language towards a customer or a emits a vapour or has a power source or the eye. member of crew. produces heat and or a light. We do not If you do happen to see a laser beam from Our crews are fully trained to deal with this permit electronic cigarettes to be charged the cabin or if it enters the cabin, you may kind of incident and therefore we remind in our lounges. Electronic cigarettes may be tempted to look at it. However, you customers that to disobey a lawful com- be carried on board subject to the following should not look at the beam or try to locate mand given by a crew member is to commit conditions: its source. Just look away or look down an offence under the UK Air Navigation Or- • Carried on the person only towards the floor of the cabin. Do report the der. Offenders who persistently misbehave • No refills incident to your cabin crew. on a flight will be handed to the appropriate • Strictly not permitted for use Thanks for your attention. 38

BARE ESSENTIALS: WHERE TO STAY ITS LOCATION, IN OF THE CENTRE MAKES IT AGREAT SPOT IT UP AMEET FOR MAKES NATION’S CITIES AIRPORTS, AND MAJOR CLOSE TO AND THE OF ALL SCOTLAND and whisky and summer berry crème and whiskysummerberrycrème haggis bonbons,highlandvenisonloin indulgent andproudly Scottish; including The menuoftheFlemmyngRestaurantis catering visitorscanhaveareal nightoff. restaurants, whichmeans thatevenself- option todineatachoiceoftwo bedroom cottagesbutit’s atempting in thecomfortofone,twoorthree Guests canprepare foodandeatin, setting inlog-cabin-stylebungalows. garden, offer amore private,tranquil cottages, setwithintheoriginalfarm the action,whereas theWalled Garden families orthosewhowishtobeclose leisure centre andhotel,sospotonfor Garden Wyndproperties are closetothe and preferences. For examplethe choose betweentosuitindividualneeds There are fivetypesofcottagesto together. want tobookdifferent thingsyetstillbe multi-generational tripswhere people solution forlarge parties,reunions orfor and lonetravellersbutit’s alsoasolid same Monessworksforfamilies,couples star hotelwhere notworooms are the offering self-cateringfacilitiesandafour- compliment initself. With106cottages to be,whichisnomeanfeatanda that becomeswhateveryouneedit Aberfeldy, isarelaxing gemofaresort In theheartofPerthshire, justoutside WHERE TO STAY WHERE ENJOY THE MOMENT AT MONESS MOMENT THE ENJOY by Janice Hopper Janice enthusiasts can go in search of the enthusiasts cangoinsearch ofthe Whisky are withineasyreach. Literary Highland SafarisandDewar’s World of such astheScottishCrannogCentre, Aberfeldy GolfClub,andkeyattractions roads. Golf isonthedoorstep atthe Tay are ashortdriveonwinding country Dunkeld,PitlochryandLoch Birnam, of Aberfeldyisamere walk away, and In termsoflocationthepicturesque town to adayoutoftheoffice. clay pigeonshooting,addabitofcolour area suchasrafting,quad bikingand incorporating manyofthesportsin available. Andteambuildingpackages, with specificdelegatesofferings and eventsfacilitiesare available From abusinessperspectivemeetings youngsters are entertained. to catchupwithfriendswhilstthe next totheTerrace barsoit’s possible pit, jigsaws,gamesandtunnel,located a playroom forlittleones,withaball as indulgentspafacilities. There’s also steam room, saunaandjacuzziaswell On-site there’s aswimmingpoolwith appearance. Perthshire sunshinemakesawelcome is alwaysahitonthedayswhen old macaroni cheese. Itsoutdoorseating battered haddockandchipsgood bar mealssuchassteakandalepie, brulee. TheTerrace offers low-key Aberdeen Nearest AirwaysAirport– Eastern and www.visitperthshire.co.uk the localarea visitwww.moness.com For more informationonthehoteland ducks. get aknockonthedoorfrom thelocal tranquility, andifyou’re really luckyyou’ll Resort isitsownpieceofPerthshire Set in35acres ofground theMoness and countryair. experience thenewbuds,fresh leaves region. Springistheperfecttimeto renowned trees tovisitrightacross the with numerous forest walksand in theheartofPerth’s ‘BigTree Country’ Centre. Nature loverswillfindthemselves Arts Potter ExhibitionwithinBirnam little bookwormsmayenjoytheBeatrix inspired Shakespeare’s Macbeth,and oakwhichissaidtohave Birnam ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON…

n Banchory Beer Festival presents Beer @ the Barn 2017 from February 10-11 at the Woodend Barn, Banchory. The Beer Festival team aims to provide a unique selection of beers, ciders, gins and rum supporting local and national producers where quality products are the priority. The festival will also include local food and live music. BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S GOING ON BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S

FIJI EXHIBITION SAILS INTO NORWICH Fiji: Art & Life in the Pacific which runs beautiful, newly commissioned, eight until February 12 at the The Sainsbury metre-long double-hulled sailing canoe CentreFOOD for Visual FROM Arts at the THE University FOREST that has –been AND built in THEFiji and shipped SEA of East Anglia, Norwich, is the largest here for display; it performed in the and most comprehensive exhibition recent Pageant for HM The Queen’s about Fiji ever assembled. Revealing 90th Birthday at Windsor Castle. stunning sculptures, textiles, ceramics, and ivory and shell regalia, it takes the Also running in Norwich at the Castle Museum and Art Gallery, until January visitor on a journey through the art and n 22, is Fishermen and Kings: The St David’s Day 2017 on March 1 cultural history of this dynamic South promises to be an uplifting occasion at St Photography of Olive Edis. Seas archipelago since the late 18th David’s Hall in Cardiff as the BBC National century. It celebrates the life and work of Orchestra and Chorus of Wales are joined Over 270 works of art, including British photographer Olive Edis (1876- by acclaimed Welsh soprano Rebecca European paintings and historic 1955) and is the first comprehensive Evans. Together they will celebrate the photographs, are being loaned by exhibition dedicated to her 50 year- country’s music, along with tenor Joshua exhibition partner the Museum of career. Featuring more than 190 rare Mills, and 2016 BBC Young Musician Archaeology & Anthropology at photographs, it showcases Edis’ string finalist Charlie Lovell-Jones. Cambridge, and by the Fiji Museum, wide-ranging portraiture from British the British Museum, the Pitt Rivers royalty to dignified Norfolk fishermen, n Some of Europe’s best winemakers, Museum (Oxford) and museums together with her important work as chefs and suppliers will gather in in Aberdeen, Birmingham, Exeter, the first-ever accredited female war Stavanger for the Stavanger Wine Festival London-Maidstone, as well as photographer. from March 22-25. Arranged by 14 of the Dresden and Leipzig in Germany. city's best restaurants, the programme will scva.ac.uk include a wine train with eight stops for A highlight of the exhibition is a www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk tastings.

Rendezvous in Aberdeen with the New Glasgow Boys Aberdeen’s Rendezvous Gallery brings know where my ideas come from but I the opportunity to see work by one of do know that they generally arrive by the so-called New Glasgow Boys, train. As a non-driver I frequently travel whose huge, exuberant figure paintings by rail. This I always do with a brought them to prominence in the sketchbook stuck in my pocket or mid-1980s. tucked under my arm.” Like that of other “new boys” Adrian He continues: “I let my pen hover. Like Wiszniewski’s work draws equally on the arm of an old teleprinter waiting for a fantasy and myth, and contemporary result to come through. It is not thought and everyday life. When his immediate. I let the visuals and work was acquired by the Tate in 1985 acoustics act on empting my mind. and New York’s Museum of Modern Art Japanese Garden by Adrian Wiszniewski “The tip of my pen touches the paper. I a year later, it prompted wider interest including, in addition to painting, don’t know where it will lead me. All I by public collections in the UK and printmaking, sculpture, installations, know is that my journey has begun.” internationally. Between 1986-87 he was furniture and interior design, and writing. artist in residence at the Walker Gallery, Running until December 24. Liverpool. Since then his work has He writes in his own synopsis for the developed in many different directions, exhibition, Notes on a Train: “I don’t new.rendezvous-gallery.co.uk Idyllic Location, Unique Experience

Meldrum House Country Hotel & Golf Course, Oldmeldrum, Aberdeenshire, Scotland, AB51 0AE Telephone: +44 (0)1651 872294 | [email protected] www.meldrumhouse.com

The Rendezvous Gallery Ltd - December, 2016 The Rendezvous Gallery Ltd - February, 2017

Shared Landscapes Adrian Wiszniewski

“Notes on a Train” Will Maclean, RSA, RSW

A Solo Exhibition of Recent Works Birth of the Uraisg / Garyvard Construction and found objects Japanese Garden, 120 x 150 cm, oil on canvas 57 x 52 x 11 cm

RSA, RSW Frances Walker, Peter Chalmers Coastal Glimpses IV Screenprint 7/30 45 x 63 cm “Raise The Curtain”

A Window Exhibition of Recent Works Marian Leven, RSA, RSW

The One I Kiss, 120 x 140cm, oil on canvas Lewis Suite, III Watercolour, collage, graphite December 3rd - December 24th, 2016 40 x 30 cm February 11th - February 25th, 2017 [email protected] www.rendezvous-gallery.co.uk 100 Forest Avenue, Aberdeen, AB14 4TL Tel: 01224-323247, Mon-Sat: 11am - 6pm LAWRENCE OF ARABIA REASSESSED He has been called a charlatan and fantasist reassessed in a UK first exhibition – currently – but a new exhibition lends credence to the open – being hosted by the National Civil War account Lawrence of Arabia gave of his own Centre in Newark, Nottinghamshire, until extraordinary exploits in the desert. March 31. What emerges according to one expert is the It is based on 10 years' research by rehabilitation of a war hero. archaeologists following in Lawrence's footsteps in the Jordanian desert, armed with TE Lawrence was a low-ranking British Seven Pillars of Wisdom, his own – often military intelligence officer who played a key criticised – account of the revolt, published in role in the Great Arab Revolt (1916-18) against 1935. The investigation confirmed Lawrence's the Turkish Ottoman Empire during the First account in every detail. World War. Memorably photographed in Arab dress, he became an iconic figure of the 20th Spent bullets and blown-up railway line are century, feted by royalty and immortalised in some of the artefacts being displayed for the David Lean's classic 1962 film. But since then first time, together with the chest used by separating the man from the myth has proved Lawrence to carry gold to pay Arab chiefs impossible, especially after a critical and the robes he wore in a 1919 publicity shot biography was published in the 1950s. that helped propel him to worldwide fame. Now his reputation and impact are being www.nationalcivilwarcentre.com

Hull celebrates Hull’s newly refurbished Ferens Art Gallery is hosting a number of special exhibitons during 2017 as part of the UK City of Culture celebrations. The Open Exhibition, founded in 1967, which showcases the creativity of local artists, celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2017, and judges of this special edition include Dr Gabriel Finaldi, Director, London’s National Gallery, Hull-born actress Maureen Lipman and the leading sculptor David Mach. It runs from January 20 to March 12. The gallery will also present a display including five of Francis Bacon’s Screaming Popes, from January 21 to May 1. The first showing of Spencer Tunick’s photographs from his 2016 Sea of Hull commission, featuring thousands of nudes with the city as a backdrop, comes to the gallery on April 22. There will also be an exhibition of works by the internationally acclaimed sculptor, Ron Mueck. FESTIVAL LIGHTS UP WINTER IN ABERDEEN www.hull2017.co.uk Running for four nights from February 9, works from North East Scotland’s creative SPECTRA, Aberdeen’s stunning Festival of community, the festival will enliven the city Light, returns to celebrate the Scottish Year and celebrate Aberdeen’s creative past, of History, Heritage and Archaeology present and future. exploring Aberdeen’s past through this year’s theme, A New Light. Inviting audiences to engage with playful, accessible and high quality performances, Bringing together leading international spaces and works of art means that marry artists with established Scottish light, sound and interactive experiences collaborators the festival will deliver a SPECTRA 2017 will be an exciting family four-day light spectacular to once again event bringing light to the depths of winter. animate Union Terrace Gardens, the Kirk of St Nicholas Graveyard, Seventeen and SPECTRA was the winner of Festival of the Marischal College. Year at the Drum Scottish Event Awards 2016. Featuring major public realm and gallery installations alongside new experimental www.spectraaberdeen.com 41

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WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE To the east of the town. Taxis One mile from the centre of Seven miles north-west of the Seven miles north-west of the and car hire are available at the Wick, half an hour’s drive from city centre, off the A96. Regular city centre. Metro rail link every airport. No weekend flights. Car Thurso. Main bus and rail buses into the city centre. For few minutes to the city, hire: Isle of Harris Car Hire – see stations are near to Wick centre car hire see Europcar.co.uk Gateshead, the coast and above. serving most places in Sunderland. Half-hourly bus Caithness. Trains to Thurso and VISIT service. Taxi fare to city, approx The Winter Gardens, Duthie Park, VISIT Inverness. Post bus operates £12. For car hire see Europcar. Stornoway Fish Smokers, Shell Polmuir Rd; Gordon Highlanders Thurso-Wick-Airport. Car hire: co.uk St; Woodlands Centre, Lews Museum, Viewfield Rd. BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS Dunnets offers airport pick-up Castle grounds; An Lanntair Arts and drop-off, 01955 602103. VISIT Centre, Kenneth Street, STAY AT Great North Museum, Centre for The Chester Hotel, Queen’s Stornoway. Life, Newcastle; Gateshead VISIT Rd; Atholl Hotel, King’s Gate; Wick Heritage Museum; St Quays for the Baltic and Sage The Village Hotel, Kingswells; STAY AT Fergus Gallery, Sinclair Terr; Gateshead. Hotel Hebrides, Tarbert; Royal Banchory Lodge Hotel; Skene Pulteney Distillery, Huddart St. Hotel, Cromwell St, Stornoway; House Apartments, various STAY AT Scarista House, west Harris; STAY AT city locations; Bauhaus Hotel, Sandman Signature, Hotel Auberge Carnish, Uig. Ackergill Tower, Wick; Mackays Langstane Place. Indigo, Jesmond Dene House, Hotel, Wick; The Brown Trout all Newcastle; Hilton, Gateshead. SHOP AT Hotel, Station Rd, Watten, near SHOP AT Callanish Jewellery, Point St; Aberdeen Whisky Shop, Wick. SHOP AT This ’n That, Cromwell St; Borgh Union St; Annie Mo’s, Union Jules B, Jesmond; Cruise, Pottery, Borgh (20 miles). SHOP AT St (interiors); Granite Reef, the Princess Square, Newcastle; John O’Groats (pottery, Green (skate, surf, snow). Van Mildert, MetroCentre and DRINK AT knitwear); Rotterdam St, Thurso Durham. Chili Chili cocktail and vodka (20 miles). DRINK AT bar, Era, South Beach; The Brewdog, Gallowgate; Eclectic DRINK AT Carlton Lounge, Francis St. DRINK AT Fizz, Union St; CASC, Stirling Crown Posada, Side; The Forth, (Both in Stornoway) Cocktail Bar, Mackay’s Hotel, St; Under the Hammer, North Pink Lane; Bridge Hotel, Castle Wick; the Alexander Bain Silver St. Garth – all Newcastle. EAT AT Wetherspoons, Wick. Digby Chick, Bank St; Golden EAT AT EAT AT Ocean, Cromwell St; Thai, EAT AT Granite Park, Golden Sq; House of Tides, Quayside; Church St. (All in Stornoway) Bord de l’Eau, Market St, Wick; Foodstory Cafe, Thistle St; Blackfriars; Caffè Vivo (Live Le Bistro, Thurso; Captain’s Yorokobi by CJ, Huntly St; Theatre); Red Mezze, Leazes WHAT’S ON Galley, Scrabster (22 miles). Rishi’s, George St; Aperitivo, Park Rd; Peace and Loaf, Bliadhna Mhath Ur! – a musical Bon Accord St; Sand Dollar Jesmond – all Newcastle. celebration of the New Year at WHAT’S ON Cafe & Bistro, Beach Esplanade. An Lanntair, Dec 31; Snow Made – Caithness WHAT’S ON White, An Lanntair, Stornoway, Contemporary Craft, St Fergus WHAT’S ON Body Worlds Animal Inside Out, Jan 19-21. Gallery, Wick, until Jan 7; The Gateway to the North: Centre For Life, Newcastle, Half-Light: a touring exhibition Aberdeen Harbour 1136-1660, until Jan 3; Banff Mountain Film of monochromatic works, Jan Aberdeen Maritime Museum, Festival World Tour, Playhouse, 28-Feb 25, Thurso Library. Jan 1-Sep 30; Burns Night Whitley Bay, Mar 9-10. celebrations in week of Jan 25.

Airport 01851 702256 Airport 01955 602215 Airport 0844 481 6666 Airport 0871 882 1121 www.hial.co.uk/stornoway-airport www.hial.co.uk/wick-airport.html www.aberdeenairport.com www.newcastleinternational.co.uk Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Bergen, Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Onward connections Onward connections to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, Aberdeen, Cardiff. Onward to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, East East Midlands, Humberside, connections to Bergen, Stavanger, Tees Valley, Humberside, Midlands, Humberside, Leeds Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Stornoway, Wick Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Bradford, Newcastle, Norwich, Norwich, Southampton, Tourist/Local Info Norwich, Stavanger, Wick Stavanger, Stornoway Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick 0191 277 8000 / 0191 478 4222 Tourist/Local Info 01851 703088 Tourist/Local Info 0845 22 55 121 Tourist/Local Info 01224 900490 www.visitnewcastlegateshead.com www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk www.wicktown.co.uk www.visitaberdeen.com 42 DURHAM TEES VALLEY HUMBERSIDE LEEDS BRADFORD EAST MIDLANDS

Hartlepool’s Maritime Experience The Deep Shakespeare in Yorkshire Creswell Crags BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE Five miles east of Darlington Fifteen miles east of Scun­ Nine miles north-west of Leeds Twelve miles from both Derby and ten miles west of thorpe, 20 miles south of Hull, centre, seven miles from and Nottingham, just off the M1 Middlesbrough. Taxi fare to 16 miles west of Grimsby, 30 Bradford. Regular Airlink 757 junction 24. Rail stations Darlington approx £8. For car miles north of Lincoln. Regular bus from bus and rail stations to Loughborough,­ Long Eaton, hire see Europcar.co.uk bus services to major towns. terminal. Taxi time 25 mins. For Nottingham­ and Derby are a Barnetby Station three miles car hire see Europcar.co.uk short bus/taxi ride from EMA. VISIT from airport with Intercity con- For car hire see Europcar.co.uk mima (Middlesbrough Institute nections via Doncaster.­ Approx VISIT of Modern Art) Centre Square; Royal Armouries, Leeds; Leeds taxi fare to Hull £26. For car hire VISIT Locomotion, the National City Museum, Millennium King Richard III Visitor Centre, see Europcar.co.uk Railway Museum at Shildon; Square; National Media Museum, Leicester; National Civil War Hartlepool’s Maritime VISIT Bradford; Salts Mill, Saltaire. Centre, Newark; Nottingham Experience, Historic Quay. Museums Quarter, Hull; The Contemporary, Weekday Cross; Deep, Hull; Lincoln Castle and STAY AT Creswell Crags, Worksop; DoubleTree by Hilton, Leeds; STAY AT Cathedral; Ferens Art Gallery, Hull. QUAD, Cathedral Quarter, Derby. Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth on Radisson Blu, The Headrow, Tees; Headlam Hall, near STAY AT Leeds; the New Ellington, STAY AT Darlington; Crathorne Hall Forest Pines Hotel, Broughton; Leeds; Dubrovnik boutique Radisson Blu at airport; Hotel, Yarm; Wynyard Hall. Cave Castle Hotel, Brough; hotel, Oak Avenue, Bradford. Cathedral Quarter Hotel, St Willerby Manor, Willerby; The SHOP AT Mary’s Gate, Derby; Royal Arms, SHOP AT White Hart, Lincoln. Sutton Cheney, Leics; Hart’s Psyche, Linthorpe Rd, Retro Boutique, Headingley Hotel & Restaurant, Nottingham. Middlesbrough;­ The House, SHOP AT Lane, Leeds; Harvey Nichols, Yarm High Street; Leggs, Bailgate and Steep Hill area, Briggate, Leeds; Victoria SHOP AT Skinnergate, Darlington. Lincoln; Henri Beene, Quarter, Leeds. Paul Smith, Nottingham; Abbeygate, Grimsby. DRINK AT Fenwick’s Leicester; Cathedral DRINK AT Quarter, Derby. George and Dragon, Yarm; DRINK AT Baby Jupiter, York Place, Leeds; Black Bull, Frosterley. The Wig & Mitre, Steep Hill, Haigys, Lumb Lane, Bradford. DRINK AT Lincoln; Ye Olde Black Boy, EAT AT Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, EAT AT High St, Hull. Nottingham Castle; Hop Gate Raby Hunt, Summerhouse; Chandelier by Mumtaz, Clarence Derby; Orange Tree, Leicester. Sardis, Northgate, Darlington; EAT AT Dock, Leeds; Brasserie Blanc, Dun Cow Inn, Sedgefield; The Figs Restaurant, Cleethorpes; Sovereign St, Leeds. EAT AT Orangery, Rockliffe Hall. Brackenborough Hotel & WHAT’S ON Sat Bains, Nottingham; Restaurant, Louth; Wintering- For All Time: Shakespeare in Fischer’s, Baslow Hall, nr WHAT’S ON ham Field, Winteringham; Pipe Chatsworth; John’s House, Winifred Nicholson: Liberation Yorkshire at Treasures of the and Glass, South Dalton. Mountsorrel, nr Loughborough. of Colour, Middlesbrough Brotherton Gallery, until Jan 31; Institute of Modern Art (mima), WHAT’S ON Women, Work & War, Leeds WHAT’S ON until Feb 12; From Ibiza to the Stage 4 Beverley: Winter Industrial Museum at Armley Leicester Comedy Festival, Norfolk Broads, acclaimed Music Celebration, East Riding Mills,until Sep 24. Feb 8-26; Light Night 2017, production of a young David Theatre, Feb 17-19; Beverley Nottingham, Feb 10; FORMAT Bowie obsessive,Town Hall Races, April 19 & 27. Photography Festival, Derby Theatre, Hartlepool, Feb 21. QUAD, Mar 24-Apr 23.

Airport 01325 332811 Airport 0844 887 7747 Airport 0871 288 2288 Airport 0871 919 9000 www.durhamteesvalleyairport.com www.humbersideairport.com www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk www.eastmidlandsairport.com Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen Eastern Airways flights to Onward connections to Bergen, Aberdeen. Onward connections and Southampton. Onward Aberdeen. Onward connections to Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, connections to Bergen, Stavanger, Bergen, Stavanger, Wick Tourist/Local Info Wick Stornoway, Wick Tourist/Local Info 01642 729700 / 264957 Tourist/Local Info 01482 486600 Tourist/Local Info 0113 242 5242 08444 775678 www.visitmiddlesbrough.com www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com www.visitleeds.co.uk www.visitderby.co.uk www.visitlincolnshire.com www.yorkshire.com www.experiencenottinghamshire.com www.yorkshire.com www.visitleicester.info CARDIFF NORWICH SOUTHAMPTON NORWAY

Cardiff Bay Barnham Broom Tudor House Stavanger Wine Festival BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE STAVANGER Twelve miles west of Cardiff, Three miles north of the city. Five miles north of city. Parkway Norway’s fourth largest city lies ten miles from Junction 33 on Hourly bus service into the city Station beside terminal, three on the country’s south-west M4. Rail link, every hour, centre. Approx taxi fare to trains hourly to Southampton­ coast. The airport is just nine connects airport to Cardiff Norwich £7. For car hire see and London Waterloo. Buses miles out of town. Central and Bridgend.­ For car Europcar.co.uk hourly to the city. For car hire hire see Europcar.co.uk see Europcar.co.uk VISIT VISIT Pulpit Rock – a natural rock VISIT Norwich Cathedral, The Close; VISIT formation that overlooks the Cardiff Castle; Cardiff Bay Norwich Castle, Elm Hill; SeaCity Museum, Havelock Rd; Lysefjord. Visitor Centre, Wales Sandringham Estate, Norfolk; Tudor House & Garden, Bugle Millennium Centre, Cardiff Bay; Norwich Puppet Theatre, St; Solent Sky, Hall of Aviation, STAY AT Norwegian Church Arts Centre, Whitefriars, Norwich. Gilbert Rd South. The Clarion, Myrhegaarden, Skagen Brygge, all in the city Cardiff Bay; Dr Who Experience, Cardiff Bay. STAY AT STAY AT centre; Sola Strand Hotel, on The Maids Head Hotel, The White Star Tavern and the beach, near the airport. STAY AT Tombland; De Vere Dunston Hall Dining Rooms, Oxford St; Grand Peterstone Court, in the Usk Hotel & Golf Club, Ipswich Rd; Harbour Hotel, West Quay Rd; WHAT’S ON Valley; St David’s Hotel & Spa, Marriott Sprowston Manor Hotel Best Western Chilworth Manor. Stavanger Wine Festival, Mar Havannah St, Cardiff Bay. & Country Club; Barnham Broom 22-25, Stavanger Sentrum. Hotel & Spa, Honingham Rd; SHOP AT WestQuay Shopping Centre, SHOP AT Norfolk Mead Hotel, Coltishall. St Mary Street for specialist city centre; Antiques Quarter, BERGEN shops; Splott Market Old Northam Rd; The Marlands SHOP AT Bergen airport Flesland is (weekends), SE of city centre. Jarrold’s, London St; Ginger Shopping Centre, Civic approximately 12 miles south- Ladies Wear, Timberhill. Centre Rd. DRINK AT west of the centre of Bergen. Pen and Wig, Park Grove; Park DRINK AT DRINK AT Vaults, Park Place. The Fat Cat, West End St; The The Cellar, West Marland Rd; VISIT Troldhaugen, the home of Adam & Eve, Bishopgate; The The Duke of Wellington, Bugle composer Edvard Grieg. EAT AT Wine Press, Woburn Court, St; The Pig in the Wall, Western The Potted Pig, High St; ffresh, Norway in a Nutshell – a short Guildhall Hill; The Last Wine Esplanade. Wales Millennium Centre; tour (ideally three days) of some Bar, St Georges St. Purple Poppadom, Cowbridge EAT AT the dramatic scenery nearby, Rd East. EAT AT Olive Tree, Oxford St; SeaCity including the Breathtaking Flam Tatlers, Tombland; Mambo Museum café, Havelock Road; Railway. WHAT’S ON Jambo, Lower Goat Lane; Coriander Lounge, Below Bar. RBS 6 Nations rugby: Wales v Umberto’s Trattoria STAY AT England Feb 11, Ireland Mar 10, Radisson Blu Royal or the Italia, St Benedicts St. WHAT’S ON Principality Stadium; St David's British Art Show 8, until Jan 15, mid-market Thon Bergen Day celebrations, Mar 1. WHAT’S ON Southampton Art Gallery; Port Brygge, both on the old Fishermen & Kings: The Out, Southampton Home: The quayside. Photography of Olive Edis, Age of the Ocean Liner, SeaCity Norwich Castle Museum & Art Museum, until Jun 4. WHAT’S ON Borealis – contemporary Gallery, until Jan 22; Norwich music festival, Mar 8-12. Fashion Week, Mar 9-16.

Airport 01446 711111 Airport 01603 411923 Airport 0870 040 0009 Stavanger Airport + 47 67 03 10 00 www.cardiff-airport.com www.norwichairport.co.uk www.southamptonairport.com www.avinor.no/en/airport/stavanger Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen Bergen Airport + 47 67 03 15 55 Aberdeen, Newcastle. Onward Aberdeen. Onward connections and Leeds Bradford. www.avinor.no/en/airport/bergen connections to Bergen, Stavanger, to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, Tourist/Local Info 023 8083 3333 Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen, Stornoway, Wick Wick www.discoversouthampton.co.uk Newcastle. Onward connections Tourist/Local Info 02920 873573 Tourist/Local Info 01603 213999 to Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, www.visitcardiff.com www.visitnorwich.co.uk  East Midlands, Humberside, Leeds www.southernwales.com Bradford, Norwich, Southampton, Stornoway, Wick

44 BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS EXPLORATION EXPRESS on-airport facilitiesatScatsta). 693 636(notethatthere are no boltscarhire.co.uk orcall01595 Lerwick. Forhire carvisitwww. Mainland, andalso24milesfrom tipof located atthesouthern is theislands’commercial airport, Sullom Voe oilterminal.Sumburgh of Lerwick,afewmilesfrom the Scatsta is24milesnorth-west Scatsta andSumburgh Airports. contract fortheoilindustrytoboth Airwaysoperatesunder Eastern Up HellyAa,Jan31,Lerwick. Scalloway Fire Festival,Jan13; Vord Resort,Unst. Busta HouseHotel,Brae;Saxa Bar, Lerwick;KilnBar, Scalloway. Mid BraeInn,Brae;TheLounge Brewery, SaxaVord. & SonKnitwear, Lerwick;Valhalla Shetland Fudge,Lerwick;Jamieson Hotel, Centralmainland. Vord Resort,Unst;Scalloway Busta HouseHotel,Brae;Saxa (both Mainland). Lerwick; Jarlshof,Grutness Britain; ShetlandMuseum, tipof Unst, thenorthernmost Mareel, Lerwick;MuckleFlugga, STAY AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT SHETLAND visit.shetland.org Tourist/Local Info01595693434 Airways fortheoilindustry. Aberdeen, operatedbyEastern to dailycharterservices Frequent www.hial.co.uk/sumburgh-airport/ Sumburgh Airport01950460905 CHARTER ROUTES Sponsored by

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45 MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ESSENTIAL GUIDE ESSENTIAL GUIDE

With the 2017 Michelin Guide just published, our Essential Guide this issue explores the world of Michelin Star restaurants…

INNOVATIVE Peel’s Restaurant at Hampton Manor is a highly 46 deserved recipient of its first Michelin Star in this year’s guide If you put a label on something, then people will want to reflect the way chefs measure themselves against the collect it. Some of us seem to have a kind of primeval market and so have acquired a value in their own right. urge to tick off entries on lists, whether it be underscoring Which is not to say that all starred restaurants are better locomotive numbers or bagging Scotland’s Munros. than all the rest – the small team of Michelin judges works to So it would be surprising if Michelin Star restaurants were its own criteria and some commendable chefs don’t make any different, because, after all, there is a finite number of the cut, while others who’ve made it are not immune from them and they are listed. Indeed, while you might not see the odd off-day. many badly complexioned youths in anoraks, Michelin- baggers there certainly are. One thing is for sure: on the basis of population, too many Michelin Stars are sprinkled on London. The capital has two Guardian food blogger Tim Hayward had a go at both this of the UK’s three Michelin three-star venues and the third is band of self-appointed connoisseurs and the wider media within 50 miles. About half of 20-plus two-star restaurants a while ago, writing: “By rights, the Michelin system should are in London, and slightly fewer than 50 per cent of more only matter to those who travel with full wallets and without than 100 one-stars. Can there really be a similar number of a sense of adventure but, sadly, the media loves a ranking good restaurants in London as there are in the whole of the system and so they are taken seriously outside this tiny rest of the country (there are none at all in Manchester, for group.” example)? Statistically, therefore, it appears much harder Michelin Stars are not the only measure of a restaurant’s to gain a Michelin Star if you are not in London, so let’s quality but, whatever Hayward says, they have come to celebrate the “best of the rest”!

SCOTLAND

If proof were ever needed that you don’t The Boath House, near Nairn, has been have to be in the heart of a world city to earn described as the most beautiful Regency a Michelin Star, then the Albanach, not House in Scotland and is surrounded by 20 far from the harbour town of Lochinver, in acres of gardens, overlooked by the intimate furthest Sutherland, is one element of such restaurant. The Grade A listed house has proof. Chef proprietors Lesley Crosfield and been restored since its acquisition in the Colin Craig have been busy garnishing their early 90s by Don and Wendy Matheson, CVs with awards for their modern Scots who claim to be “avid followers of the Slow cuisine and earned their star in 2009. They’ve Food movement”. Suppliers are largely local, been at this boutique hotel, with views across artisan growers, breeders, producers and the “sugar loaf” mountain of Suilven, for more foragers. than a quarter of a century. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Aberdeen Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Wick Aberdeen can not boast a Michelin Star Kinloch Lodge, at the head of Loch na establishment of its own, but there’s the Dal, on the Isle of Skye, is another venue as nearest thing to a constellation of such excellent as it is off the beaten track. The restaurants as you’ll find in Scotland not so promise of “some of Scotland’s best food, far away, in Perth and Fife. roaring fires, whisky on tap and giant beds” La crème de la crème among these is may be enough on its own persuade you to Andrew Fairlie, in a quiet corner of the make the journey to discover Brazilian-born Geneagles golf resort, between Perth and chef Marcelo Tully’s fabulous flavours from Dunblane. Scotland’s only two-star chef, the finest local produce, including scallops Scots-born chef patron Fairlie administers and tender local lamb. classical French treatment to local produce to Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Wick and Stornoway create deceptively simple dishes, which have also earned the restaurant 18th place in the Sunday Times best restaurant rankings. EXCELLENT [A relative newcomer to the Michelin hall of Kinloch Lodge fame, the Cellar, in a former smokehouse at Anstruther, Fife, gained its star under chef Billy Boyter, who returned to his home town after 15 years finessing his CV at some of Scotland’s top restaurants. Local beers, gins and whiskies complement the best of Scottish cuisine. The Peat Inn, in the eponymous village near the university town of St Andrew’s, is run by chef and food columnist Geoffrey Smeddle, with his wife, Katherine, with a focus on local and seasonal ingredients. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Aberdeen The Star Inn, at Harome, near Helmsley, trail. Entry is inauspicious, via a ground NORTH OF ENGLAND regained its Michelin Star in 2015. It’s a floor clothes shop and a lift. Its mission: “To thatched gastro-pub with nine bedrooms. cook as an expression that is pleasing to Readers will need little introduction to Chef Andrew Pern is of Esk Valley, Whitby, the eye and mouth, taking techniques from Kenny Atkinson’s House of Tides, in a farming stock and his food reflects that. peers and inspiration from the arts, music 16th century former merchant’s house on Just down the road, the Black Swan, at and contemporary culture.” Tipped by Newcastle’s Quayside, which has graced some as the next Heston Blumenthal. these pages more than once and saw Oldfield, boasts four AA rosettes as well Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Leeds Bradford its Michelin star retained in the new list. as its star – not bad for Britain’s youngest Michelin Star chef, in Tommy Banks. The Creatively presented local ingredients in an The Pipe and Glass Inn, at South Dalton, informal and friendly setting help put House Black Swan also boasts eight bedrooms, a vegetarian recommendation and two acres near Beverley, is a 15th century inn at the of Tides firmly at the summit of the city’s gates of Dalton Park. It makes a great job rapidly expanding list of restaurants you of growing beds, whose crops include corn cobs and eight varieties of garlic – staff also of combining the roles of country pub and really should visit. fine dining restaurant, thanks to the skilful Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Newcastle keep bees and pick green elderberries for “capers”: interesting! stewardship of James and Kate Mackenzie, The biggest Michelin news in the North Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Durham Tees who took over in 2006 and won their star of England is the award of a second Valley and Leeds Bradford in 2010. star to James Close, at the Raby Hunt, Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Humberside Summerhouse. Oh, and, for good measure, The Yorke Arms, in Nidderdale, featured he’s just been named Chef of the Year in in series one of Steve Coogan and Rob the Good Food Guide, too. With two- Brydon’s fictional road trip across the North MIDLANDS AND star restaurants like hen’s teeth outside of England. It’s home to Frances Atkins, London, anyone who hasn’t visited this one of only half a dozen Michelin-starred E AST ANGLIA cosy establishment, near Darlington, women, who has maintained her status should consider making a real occasion of consistently since 2003. Jay Rayner, no The East Midlands’ triangle of shires – it by booking one of two en suite rooms. less, described it thus: “Everything about Derby, Nottingham and Leicester – boast a A bonus on a warm summer evening is to the Yorke Arms bellows good taste, from Michelin Star each, thanks to the arrival on take you aperitifs in the little front garden. the gentle smell of wood smoke as you the list of John’s House, at Mountsorrel, Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Durham Tees enter, through to the sturdy, pub-classic near Loughborough. Chef John Duffin grew Valley dining room, to the food on the plate.” up on the nearby family farm and honed In a world of constant change, Ilkley’s Box his career at London’s top establishments, Tree, with its unassuming 18th century where he worked with Gary Rhodes and frontage, but fine French cuisine, has been Marcus Wareing, among others. fixture on any Yorkshire foodie’s itinerary for Fischer’s at Baslow Hall, is a white half a century and at one time boasted two tablecloth venue, close to Chatsworth stars. Chefs Simon and Rena Gueller have House, and Head Chef Rupert Rowley’s forged a new niche for the venue in the 21st repertoire reflects the season, featuring century. Derbyshire spring lamb, Chatsworth In the Man Behind the Curtain, Leeds venison, wild hare and truffles. Max now has both a Michelin Star venue and a and Susan Fischer created this 11-bed restaurant that is blazing a highly individual restaurant with rooms back in 1988 before

DOUBLE CREAM James Close, left, at the Raby Hunt has been named Chef of the Year as well as receiving a second Michelin Star for food such as this

48 the descriptor became a cliché and styled it informally. WALES The third restaurant in the triangle is a two- Three of the principality’s five Michelin stars star – Sat Bains, in Nottingham. Highly shine in Monmouthshire, but we’ll begin innovative is its Nucleus development at Ynyshir Hall, on the Dyfi estuary, near kitchen, which, unusually, is also open to Machynlleth. Former teacher Joan Reen, the public. Although only two miles form the who bought the hotel with artist husband city centre, it boasts eight rooms, offering Rob back in 1989, sadly died early in 2016, mid-week tasting packages. The Kitchen having earned high acclaim from guests and Bench gives an up-close view of the action industry professionals alike. The Reens sold in the kitchen. up to the ill-fated Von Essen in 2006, only to have to buy the property back out of the Peel’s at Hampton Manor is a much latter’s Administration in 2012. The kitchen is deserved recipient of a Michelin Star, having the preserve of Gareth Ward, just the latest been dubbed a “Michelin Star venue in of a parade of top chefs to grace its stoves. all but name” by our own reviewer two issues ago. Chef Rob Palmer and his team The unassuming Walnut Tree Inn, in deserve all the praise they may get for their Abergavenny, offers an à la carte menu that achievement, combining fine and innovative changes daily. Chef Shaun Hill acquired the dining with great service in exquisitely inn in 2008, fresh from putting Ludlow on decorated and relaxing surroundings. the world foodie map, with his Merchant House restaurant. Chef-patron Stéphane Not far away, the Cross, at Kenilworth, is Borie, at the Checkers, in Montgomery, UNPRETENTIOUS The Black Rat a modern British gastro-pub, where Head trained under Michel Roux Senior and with Chef Adam Bennett draws on experience partner Sarah has built a reputation for at top restaurants in London and classic French cuisine that was awarded a Birmingham and reached the European SOUTH OF ENGLAND Michelin star in its opening year of 2011. finals of 2015 Bocuse d’Or, coming sixth. Sarah’s sister Kathryn completes the family Down the road, in Rutland, Tim Hart’s With the Montagu Arms, at Beaulieu, losing its star, the New Forest is no longer on “the trio. Locally foraged mugwort, meadow- Hambleton Hall is another favourite of sweet, mallow cream, lesser celandine and this magazine’s team, having elegantly list”. But there’s a constellation of stars in and around the area’s other national park, scurvy grass are just some of the ingredi- presented such local delicacies as wood ents to be found at the Whitebrook, a and squab pigeon, rabbit (with a pearl the South Downs. Two of these are in or near to Horsham, one being new entry, Gravetye highly acclaimed restaurant with rooms, in barley risotto and liquorice sauce), quail, the Wye Valley. Chef-patron Chris Harrod, English asparagus season and basil- Manor, a 16th century Elizabethan manor at the end of a mile-long woodland drive, formerly of Le Manoir, and wife Kirsty also flavoured ice cream. boast four AA rosettes and are in the UK Nearest Eastern Airways airport – East Midlands containing 17 traditionally furnished bedrooms. Chef George Blogg can source Top 50 in the Good Food Guide. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Cardiff Perhaps unsurprisingly, the university city of more than 90 per cent of seasonal fruit Cambridge lays claim to two Michelin Star and veg from his own garden. Restaurant restaurants, of which one, Midsummer Tristan offers 40 covers in a timber-framed House, on the city’s Midsummer Common, 16th century timber-frame building in centre NORWAY has two Michelin Stars and no fewer than of Horsham. Retained its star despite being To return to blogger, Tim Hayward… he five AA rosettes. Chef-patron Daniel Clifford closed by a fire at the start of 2016. has at times battled with adversity, as the would probably not be surprised that the nearby River Cam flooded it twice more The Black Rat is an unpretentious-looking Michelin Guide’s treatment of Norway, and than a decade ago. The apple trees in the pub on the edge of Winchester city centre, the Nordic countries in general, is best garden feature in the scallop, truffle and where Chef-patron David Nicholson described as cursory – surprising given the apple signature dish. Chef Mark Poynton offers world-class cuisine in an equally region’s ascendancy on the back of New learned his stuff at Midsummer House and unpretentious and cosy interior. He also Nordic Cuisine. There are fine restaurants now runs the highly acclaimed funky- runs two pubs and a B & B, all featuring the worthy of stars not just in the capital cities, modern Alimentum, across the city. name, Black. Jake Saul Watkins is Chef- that the judges have managed to find, but Morston Hall is an intimate country house, patron at JSW, in Petersfield, where he in Stavanger, Bergen and – indeed – across where Chef Galton Blackiston offers a and his team serve seasonal British menus the Nordic lands, from Greenland, through single-sitting set daily menu, depending in simple surroundings. The cellar at the Iceland, the Faroe Islands and the European on season and ingredients. Galton cut his 17th century coaching is stocked with a mainland. Michelin would do well to reflect teeth at Miller Howe, on Ullswater, where phenomenal 900 wine choices. this fact better before the changing culinary he became Head Chef, before developing Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Southampton world leaves it behind! his style in the US, Canada and London. A Saturday Kitchen regular, he has also SHINING STAR Under new ownership Ynyshir Hall still boasts first class cuisine appeared in the Great British Menu. The Neptune Inn, at Hunstanton, on the Norfolk coast, welcomes guests with a log fire and flagstones, while dishes include fresh fish and lobster. Rooms and an on-site holiday cottage make it a good base to explore the coast. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Norwich 49 THE LAST WORD with Harry Pearson RISING TO THE PASTRY CHALLENGE At some point my great-gran expressed the view that a nice pork pie would do “IT WAS THE PORK PIES THAT WERE THE her for lunch on New Year’s Day. CAUSE OF THE BITTEREST TROUBLE…IT WAS “You want to have a one from our Pam’s village,” my granddad announced. MARY BERRY v PAUL HOLLYWOOD. THERE “What are you talking about?” Uncle Joe said, “Have you gone screwy? I’ll get her WAS NO COMPROMISE.” a one from in town.” Recently I was up in the Borders and a butcher’s so famous for its pork pies “The only thing she’s getting from you is had one of the best mutton pies I’ve ever that on Saturday mornings there’d be a a load of baloney,” my granddad replied. tasted. I won’t tell you where I got it from. queue fifty yards long outside and they I’m sensitive about these things. You see had to limit each customer to two pies By this stage my mother had started to my family was once savagely divided to prevent a riot. And that was when the wrestle me into my coat and signalled for by what can only be described as an trouble started, because our house was my Dad to go out and get the engine of internecine savoury pastry war. 50 yards from this meat-jelly-and-pastry our Morris Oxford turning over. She had paradise. spent a lifetime in the company of these There were other culinary stand-offs men. She knew fighting talk when she among us, admittedly. My dad’s family At some point my grandfather was lured heard it. was committed to Hoe’s relish and into buying a pork pie from the village Panyan pickle, while my mum’s would butcher and pretty soon they were the Things might have stayed at a rolling entertain only Hammonds Yorkshire only pork pies he’d eat. He might have simmer, but at this point my grandma’s Sauce and Branston; many a trip to stayed silent on the matter, but, like a sister’s husband started in. He hailed the seaside ended in an acrimonious man recently alerted to the existence of from out in the moorland boondocks, dispute over the merits of favourite God by a burning bush, he just couldn’t where – or so my grandfather said – the chip shops, and when it came to beer, keep the good news to himself. He people were so backward they still the impossibility of finding a pub that became evangelical on the topic. pointed at aeroplanes. Uncle Lenny had served both Theakston’s and McEwan’s a voice so loud and gravelly it sounded It all kicked off at my great-grandmother’s Export meant we often went out together like an underground explosion in a flint one Christmas Eve nearly half a century and then sat in pubs several streets mine. Now he boomed out his opinion ago. My great-grandmother lived in a apart. It was the pork pies that were the that the pork pies from the butcher near tiny terraced house, the living room so cause of the bitterest trouble, though. the foundry where he worked knocked all small that the only way all of us could When it came to them it was The King other pork pies on God’s green earth into fit in was with kids sitting on knees and v Parliament, Mods v Rockers, Mary the middle of next week. menfolk arranged shoulder-to-shoulder Berry v Paul Hollywood. There was no around the walls. We all had our place. What happened next I cannot honestly compromise. You could tell where the men stood even say, for my mum had hustled me out the My grandfather and his brothers, when they weren’t there by the height of door. From reports it seemed the coppers George and Joe, grew up in a town in the stains their Brilliantine hair oil left on got things under control quite quickly the North East of England. As lads they the woodchip. once they arrived on the scene. had pledged pie-allegiance to a well- known local maker, when they were still wearing short trousers. They were steadfast. While Joe and George stayed in the town, my grandfather married a girl from the coast and settled there. Later his daughter, my mother, moved to a North Yorkshire village, which had - Fotolia.com Stuart Monk - 50 EASTERN AIRWAYS A SUPERIOR MODEL

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